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donbert

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Posts posted by donbert

  1. How long is the infusion time for fat washing?  Just long enough for the fat to solidify, or longer?

    There was some discussion of fat washing going on a few months ago in the molecular mixology thread and, tongue planted firmly in cheek I brought up the idea of Bacon Bitters.  Thing is, though, I haven't been able to get the idea out of my mind.  It may be  one of the worst ideas I've ever had, or sheer genius.

    As a proof of concept shortcut, rather than starting from scratch I'm thinking of fat washing a bottle of Angostura, which is cheap enough so that I'm not taking a big hit if this turns out to be a bad idea (no way I'm sacrificing my bottle of Fee's Whiskey Barrel Aged just yet).

    It depends. Figuring out the infusion time is trial and error until you find something you're happy with. It depends on the amount of the fat you use vs the alcohol, how flavorful the fat is, how flavorful the alcohol is, the temperature of the fat when you add it to the alcohol, the temperature of the room you're infusing in, etc... You should think of solidifying the fat as separate from the infusion time. Once you put the infusion in the fridge/freezer it will slow down significantly and be less effective.

    I dont know if fatwashing into angostura would be the way to go. Angostura has so much going on in it that I think it wouldn't be a very good carrier of other flavors. Also it has a high level of glycerin. The best thing would be to make your own bitters and tailor the botanicals around the flavor of the bacon you're using.

  2. For example, PDT is also doing a drink made with popcorn-and-butter-infused rum.

    Any idea how they do this? I've a few things I'd like to try out and this sounds pretty interesting

    It's a double infusion. First infuse the rum with dry air popped popcorn and strain then fat wash with clarified butter. pm me if you have specific questions.

  3. One thing that hasn't been mentioned so far is how great the wine/sake pairing was. I wish I had taken note of what they were pouring because they had obviously taken the same great care in selecting the wines and sakes as they did preparing the food. Each pairing worked on multiple levels with the individual components and each dish as a whole.

    If I had to sum up the whole Ko experience in a single word it would be Gestalt.

  4. Here are photos of the passed hors d'oeuvres:

    gallery_26869_3940_839.jpg

    Beef heart tartar puttanesca

    gallery_26869_3940_4716.jpg

    Fritto of honeycomb Tripe with olives and oregano

    gallery_26869_3940_7572.jpg

    Porchetta di testa with radish and pecorino

    gallery_26869_3940_2801.jpg

    Crostino of salt cured pork heart, eight minute farm egg

    Photos from the rest of the dinner here.

  5. First a couple corrections:

    1.) Yes, it is in fact Hackleback and not Ostera.

    2.) The onions on the same dish were "soubise" not "sous-vide".

    I think that spaetzle_maker's assessment of Ko is the most on point. While it's going to be impossible for folks to stop comparing Ko to Ssam Bar it is as useless a comparison as the Noodle Bar vs Ssam Bar debate. Each of the 3 Momofukus have their own vision that they execute with the same level of skill, enthusiasm, and attention to detail. If you're expecting Ko to be "Ssam Bar on steroids" you will be as disappointed as you would be were you to go to Ssam Bar expecting it to be Noodle Bar on steroids. (Besides does Ssam Bar really need steroids?)

    As far as stars or new paradigms are concerned I think that they just distract you from the food. The only thing stars have done for me is made it harder to get into places and the day I start going restaurants looking for new paradigms someone needs to put me out of my misery.

  6. Sesame Oil unfortunately doesn't infuse very well. That was actually the first thing I tried when working on what eventually became the Silk Road (toasted sesame infused aquavite) cocktail from our last menu at PDT. The deep flavor of Sesame Oil just doesn't come through.

    Olive Oil is too delicate for anything other than vodka and even then completely lost once you mix it into a drink.

    Avocado flesh is a pain to work with and I haven't found a good method for it yet. Avocado oil is again too light.

    Cheese oils = something I'm playing with now but nothing ready for production yet. more news on that once it's ready.

    At the end of the day fat washing is really no different from coming up with any other kind of infusion. It's a trial and error game of coming up with the right combination of [volume of liquid to be infused + amount of infusing ingredient] x length of infusion x temperature of infusion. Just like making coffee could be thought of [ W cp water + X tbs ground coffee ] x Y mins x Z degree F. The only complication is that you have to freeze the fat before you can strain it out.

  7. I had the honor of previewing the tasting menu with the wine pairing last night with Johnder and a couple friends. Here's what we had (to the best of my memory):

    gallery_26869_3885_5203.jpg

    House made Chicharrón with Togarashi amuse

    gallery_26869_3885_3019.jpg

    Fluke Sashimi with Spicy Buttermilk, Toasted Poppy Seeds, and Chives.

    gallery_26869_3885_12927.jpg

    Kimchi Consomme with Malpec Oyster, Pork Belly and Braised Cabbage

    gallery_26869_3885_3595.jpg

    Sous-vide Onions, Coddled Egg, Osetra Caviar, Potato Chips, and Herbs

    gallery_26869_3885_7596.jpg

    Scallops, Mussels, Pickled Fennel and Nori

    gallery_26869_3885_11910.jpg

    Shaved Foie over Lychees, Lychee Gelee, and Pineapple Brittle

    gallery_26869_3885_15357.jpg

    Kalbi Jjim - Fried Shortrib, Grilled Scallion, Carrots, and Mustard over Daikon

    gallery_26869_3885_7789.jpg

    Miso Soup and Lard Grilled Rice Cake over Pickled Turnips and Cabbage

    gallery_26869_3885_12181.jpg

    Pineapple Sorbet over Candied Pineapples.

    gallery_26869_3885_2434.jpg

    Fried Apple Pie, Miso Caramel and Sour Cream Ice Cream.

  8. 2 people I'm helping out are taking me out for lunch on Friday, should be within, say, an 8-block radius of 23rd and 6th avenue, and the limit is around $100 for 3. No booze will be consumed. It's like a business lunch but not business guys.

    This is the diametric opposite of the all-too-common "coming to NY for a few days, where should I go" threads - a very specific set of conditions.

    So, where should I book a table for 3 @ 1?

    and....

    go

    Gramercy Tavern. Besides the regular menu the soup and sandwich for $12 in the tavern room of is one of the best deals for lunch in that neighborhood. Also it leaves room for another course or beverage within your price range.

  9. Looks like there's some progress in the case:

    In a decision made public on Wednesday, Judge Ray Green concluded that Simon Nget, the restaurants’ owner, had illegally retaliated against the workers, all of them immigrants from China, by firing them because they were planning to bring a wage and hour lawsuit against him.

    .

    .

    .

    Judge Green ordered Saigon Grill to pay the workers for all the wages they had not received since their dismissal. He also ordered the deliverymen reinstated within 14 days, but that order could be suspended by an appeal by Saigon Grill.

    My guess is that he'll appeal and this will drag out longer but I hope that it gets resolved soon.

    Full Article here can be found on the NY Times website.

  10. I think Los Angeles has failed for a couple of reasons.

    1) I think the place is too flash- and trend-centric, so many places are flashes in the pan.

    2) Too many people are out to get trashed and party, as opposed to enjoying a cocktail.

    3) Lack of good spaces - i.e. a place that one could enjoy a cocktail, instead of being harassed by drunk people and throbbing house music. When I think of my experience at Pegu Club in NYC or the Zig Zag in Seattle, they were fantastic. I could go there and just enjoy. They have a nice atmosphere.

    That being said LA finally has at least one place that I would be willing to go: the Seven Grand. It's more whisk(e)y centric the other cocktailian bars I've visited, having 150 whiskies and whiskeys on the menu, but its got a great atmosphere and generally good drinks. I can enjoy my drink, and the bartenders give a crap and generally know what they are doing.  It's nice to finally have a place where they have a variety of bitters (if not house-made ones), fresh juices, citrus ready for zesting, twists, peels, etc., and stuff like maraschino, st.germain, absinthe, for cocktails.  A more knowledgeable friend of mine didn't think the Ramos on the menu was quite up to snuff, but still they have it one the menu, which is a step in the right direction. I did have one less-experienced bartender who was clearly learning, and I caught him forgetting the bitters in my manhattan, and the simple out of my old fashioned. He was clearly learning, as I saw the more experienced bartender on duty was giving him assignments to practice during lulls - I watched him make a couple Crustas for practice. Still, they're practicing Crustas! Much better than the red bull and vodka crowd which makes up most of LA.

    I've heard the Edison is a place I should check out as well. At least LA has one place worth going for a drink.

    welcome to eG C5!

  11. On the current menu, there's a pan-roasted dry-aged ribeye for $140. Has anyone here tried this? How many people does it feed?

    I had it once. it was very good...if straightforward. it's good-sized but it's nothing like the bo ssam...it'd probably serve as the main course for 4.

    I would say main course for 2-4 depending on how many other dishes you get. Here's what it looked like early last year. (They've changed the garnishes a few times so I'm not sure what it comes with at the moment.):

    gallery_26869_3885_9593.jpg

    gallery_26869_3885_6534.jpg

    If you see the Pork Porterhouse you should definitely order it, it's even better than the steak:

    gallery_26869_3885_2675.jpg

  12. I can't help but wonder whether the article about Streit's in today's Times City Section was tipped off by thread.

    I was thinking the same thing, sneakeater, although it has been covered in/by a number of others (e.g. Jewish Week, curbed.com)...I think what really set the info flurry off was the tipoff that the building had been placed on the market.

    ...

    Looks like Gourmet is getting in on the action too. They have the best quote:

    Yo, there be some bangin' chicks lookin' up in here.
  13. The guys at PDT made our table 3 Raymus Gin Fizzes the other day, for which I give them insane props.  Those drinks aren't easy to make.  We also tried a good portion of the rest of the menu.  I'm in love with the No. 8 (really complex and layered).

    So you're the trouble maker! :hmmm:

    We had 3 more orders for them at the bar once people saw us making them for your table...

  14. ... Now, I have no problem paying more if there are increased costs or whatnot but come on, $50 upcharge for no apparent reason at all?? They're making more money (and have less hassle) for takeout than if I brought my party to dine in.

    I doubt that they increased the price for no reason. First of all the take out Bo Ssam is a different package than the one done in house (take out oysters is just asking for trouble). I'm not sure what they're including for the $250 price you were quoted but they originally advertised 2 different take out packages a basic (pickles, rice, lettuce, kimchi, and a banana cream pie) and a deluxe with more sides (chicken wings, pork buns, prawns, bean sprouts, apple kimchi and roasted cauliflower in addition to the basic). This also includes disposable plates, flatware, and those mini tongs you normally get in house. Secondly given the amount interest in the Bo Ssam I wouldn't be surprised if they had to change their kitchen schedule/workflow to meet the demand.

  15. If you want to talk about price/value check out what they're doing for the super bowl:

    gallery_26869_3885_60740.jpg

    It's not what I'd order to get a good idea of the depth and breadth what they do at Ssam Bar but for $30 that sounds like a steal. I don't normally watch the super bowl but I may have to have a super bowl party this year...

  16. Does anyone know roughly how the apple kimchi is made? I don't like eating plain apples, but I could have eaten a few apples worth of this dish, so it might be nice to try making at home. Are the apples simply brined for a few hours in a kimchi solution?

    The slices of apple are tossed in their kimchee puree that you get as a sauce on a number of their ssam dishes. I recall that they said after much experimentation they decided it worked best with a specific variety of apples but I forget which one, sorry.

    The new mackerel dish with water spinach kimchee and asian pear is also amazing.

    gallery_26869_3885_18105.jpg

  17. Wow. Foie Gras infused Cognac (or Armagnac), anyone?

    I have a seared foie infused burbon drink in the Vinos de Jerez Cocktail Competition at the end of the month. I'll be making enough for a 100 people as part of the competition for a sherry book launch party. If anyone is in NYC on Nov 29th and wants to attend just PM me.

    Bacon Bitters.  I can see it now...

    Stephan Berg of Bitter Truth Bitters and I were tossing this idea around. There might be something in the works...

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