NancyNichols

Richard, First of all, thanks to you for inviting me on this journey through eGullet. It is certainly a well-educated, opinionated group of foodies and I like that. Food and dining are a passion in my life and sharing the conversation with others heightens it. My story is rather boring and rather fluky. I grew up in Dallas and worked in restaurants during my stay at University of Texas at Austin. I moved to LA where I was in the catering and event business. I’ve known the publisher of D Magazine, Wick Allison for 25 years. When I returned to Dallas in the early ‘90s I bumped into him at a baseball game and we just struck up a conversation. He hired me to do some events for the magazine and before I knew it, I fell into writing reviews to help the overburdened edit staff. The rest, as they say, is history. They’re all gone and I’m still here. It has been a fun ride since so much has happened under my watch--dress up dining isn’t just The Mansion on Turtle Creek, you can find cutting edge cuisine in a city famous for BBQ, and the talent and the camaraderie of the local chefs is truly amazing. I look forward to keeping up with other eGullet conversations. Thanks again. Nancy

R: Never ate at Trio when Chef Achatz was there. And, for the record, I didn't credit him over Homaro Cantu at Moto. But, according to what I've read and heard from others, Achatz is doing a lot of the same things. Again, it sounds like an experience that would be amusing to try, but would I potentially be a repeat "haute space food" diner? Doubt it.

Richard, Well the local hornet’s nest pretty much mirrors the conversation that has taken place this week—everybody has a different opinion about food and food reviewing. Initially the restaurant community embraced Romano’s lawsuit—they viewed it as a springboard to get the star rating system revised. So far, nothing has happened. Restaurant owners are scared to challenge food critics, which I find odd. Although, if anything, I feel that my story did open up a line of communication in the whole restaurant community. I’ve spoken with all kinds of people I’d never talked to before and this kind of communication is invaluable for both sides. I spoke with restaurant owners who fear restaurant reviewers—a fear I feel is unnecessary. Like I said, a good restaurant review can help a good restaurant, but it can’t make a mediocre restaurant with a wobbly business plan succeed. A bad restaurant review cannot close down a restaurant who continues their business plan and continues to improve their food/service. There are several local restaurants (Guthrie’s, Chaucer’s) that reviewed favorably that have closed for one reason or another. A review is one person’s opinion and I don’t have the ego that says, “It’s my way or the highway.” Readers have minds of their own.

Elie I love any chef who has the rocky mountain oysters big enough to break the monotony of the usual shrimp starter-salad-entrée-dessert pattern of American dining. Although I’ve never been fortunate enough to dine at El Bulli, I admire Adria’s approach and passion—especially the orgy with small bites of intense flavor. It’s a dining experience you have to train for. (Plus I’m a sucker for anything Catalan) And I’ll try anything (fried rabbit ears!) once. Grant Achatz “passion,” to me, appears to be less about the food and more about invention. I don’t want mushroom soup from an atomizer or sushi on a piece of paper. Maybe I’m just an old-fashioned gal who likes the feeling of a full belly.

Robb: Thanks for sharing that link. If nothing else, it is a nice starting point for anyone considering dining criticism as a career.

Raynickben, Those are too good choices, TABC as well. I'm very fond of Cafe Italia on Lovers and Suze. I'm happy to spend my own nickel at Sevy's, Watel's, Mirabelle, and Local. A sleeper is SoHo Food & Jazz in Addison.

Elie: Nana is a lovely place, the food is as elegant as the view. Along the same caliber I would reccommend The French Room at the Hotel Adolphus--they have superb service and the rococo style dining room is gorgeous. I love Aurora, a new high-end eatery run by madman chef Avner Samuel. When he's good he's very, very good. He raised the bar around here when he opened this small (40-seat) fancy dining room. It's all Champagne, caviar, foie gras, live scallops, etc. Very high end. The dining scene in Dallas has changed so much over the last 5 years. There are some cutting edge chefs creating plenty of exciting new menus.

Steven: Food criticism is different than travel writing. As the travel editor of D, I view travel columns as inherently positive pieces. We don’t criticize destinations because we are recommending the place as a service to our readers. We have a travel budget and use staff writers. We pay media rates for press trips. And whatever we go over the budget, we pay out of our own pockets. And yes, most of the travel freelance writers I have met, pay their own expenses and then sell the story to as many outlets that they can to recover costs. I do not go to media events, opening parties, chef’s tastings, or wine events. If a chef sends me a dessert or an extra plate of anything I insist on paying for it.

Ok, let’s hold on to our menus here. I can’t address each one of the above emails one at a time, so I’m going to make a summary essay. First of all, this discussion about the ethics of food reviewers could/can go on forever. As I said in the article we are allegedly discussion, I do not like the star system; therefore you guys can debate it all day. My magazine doesn’t use it and the punch it once had is lost. Restaurants are not like hotels where the star system is applied to a specific set of standards (like price, amenities, etc.). To Michael, who writes about the music section of the Times: I don’t care what they do in the music section, it is apples and oranges. No comparison. To JJ, Thank you for bringing up the freelance issue. I’ve seen too many starry-eyed freelancers get comps and a little power and that is a dangerous situation. Not all; but plenty. I use a couple of freelancers, but I budget for their reviews and pay for their food. If I am recognized at a restaurant, I always write about it. Believe me, most of the time it DOES NOT matter. Like I said, just because a chef knows who you are doesn’t mean he’s going to instantly get more talent. For the record, I don’t eat with publicists or go to press dinners either. Now, of course I am not a saint. I have made friends with chefs and restaurant owners just by being involved in the same community with them. Sure, it gets more difficult if you have a bad experience in their place, but I try to keep my job and my personal relationships separate. To Dan McDonald: I say you are doing a good job as long as you present your review as a one-time visit. I always take the view of the guy who saves all year to take his gal out for one special dinner. The restaurant has one shot to make him feel like he has picked the right spot. I present reviews as a report or a journal of a visit. If I go twice I write that. Most people who have a bad experience the first time don’t go back, if you can’t afford it, call the restaurant post review, and follow up with an interview. To: JJ, re: small newspapers. It doesn’t matter about the size of your publication, what you are missing here is that if you put journalistic integrity above anything, the rest will follow. Because sooner or later advertisers are going to want to associate themselves with a publication that readers read for true reader service. How many times do you really go to a restaurant based on a Where Magazine? I realize I am doing this whole deal out of format, but it takes me longer to do it the other way. I’m a true techno moron.

Steven: Ok, one last time. I don’t care how much an ad costs--you are looking at this scenario from the restaurants point of view. Journalists don’t pay attention to ads, consumers do. That is where you can paint your own canvas. I’d be embarrassed if the whole country knew I was running around eating for free giving black eyes or not. It’s disrespectful to the consumer. And that is what this is all supposed to be about. Jack: and all. Forgive me if I'm getting names wrong, I'm a new to this posting system and still struggling to get the right answer to the right question.

Advertising And Dining Reviews, a quick lesson. Let me just address some of the issues that have come out of today’s discussions. Everybody seems to be so concerned about advertising. I wrote a story last year about Rockfish, a seafood restaurant that served fresh oysters to two people who died gruesome deaths. They had just signed a 12 time full-page ad contract with us. I had no idea; nor did I care. The story ran. A fact is a fact. To their credit, they pulled their ads for a couple of months and then resumed them. I have respect for them because they didn’t just get pissed off and go hide. They understand the reality of the marketplace. Good criticism and reporting combined with restaurant owners who understand the rules makes for a healthy environment for readers. Because readers want to know the facts, warts (or roaches) and all. They will make up their own minds. If an ad exec in this office complains to me about a review, that person is fired. We are church and state. And I feel that the public benefits.

Jack, It’s not a matter of honesty, it’s a matter of objectivity. When a chef or owner knows who you are and is buying you a meal, you are not experiencing a real dining experience at that establishment. I’ve been recognized plenty of times, but just because they know who I am doesn’t suddenly make them a better cook or server. I’ve had some bad food and service both ways. I prefer to pay my own way and feel free to say what I want to say.

Jack: Well you may call it naive, but like it or not, it is a first amendment right. He didn't get that much press if it makes you feel any better. From his side, he has a business to defend. His real goal was to get the star rating system abolished. And on your comment: "I'm far more concerned about magazines and newspapers carrying restaurant advertisements than I am about a critic getting a comped meal." I say, we wouldn't have a magazine without advertising. Why does that concern you. It sounds like you don't want anyone to have any rights. I strongly disagree about comps, especially when it comes to dining criticism. (FYI newspaper columnists do not travel on team dollars.) You say: "Yet, while they protest comps, those same publishers invariably carry restaurant advertisements. There they are in the New York Times, right next to the restaurant reviews. And there they are, it so happens, in D Magazine. Do you believe that carrying restaurant advertisements is morally superior to accepting comps?" Restaurant advertising has nothing to do with restaurant reviews. They are church and state.

Fifi, I comment on silliness all the time in my reviews. Sure we are talking about the restuarant business, but at the heart it's food. How's it is picked or dried is just a sales pitch.

Well I don’t know the Houston food scene at all. But in Dallas restaurants like York St., Lola, even the Green Room set the Dallas standards for this approach. Even the casual concept Fireside Pies uses “Paula’s Cheese,” (a tribute to local cheese maker Paula Lambert) and other local ingredients. The chef, Nick Badovinus grows all of his herbs on the roof of the restaurant. Arcodoro/Pomodoro grows figs, herbs, tomatoes, etc. as well. I think chefs can be bold and brash and creative—in Dallas Joseph Guitieriz (Rouge, Tutto) cooks with a real passion and while I wouldn’t call it “avant garde,’ I would call it cutting edge. He doesn’t let his personality become part of the recipe. I’m not a fan of gimmicks, but many people are. When Kent Rathbun opened Abacus, I felt his lobster shooters were gimmicky—6 little saki glasses filled with a curried broth and a bite of lobster. He sells the hell out of them, so the “show” works for the majority. It all boils down to personal preference—some people like to be served a baked potato the size of a shoe, others are outraged.

Dear Raynickben, First of all it’s hard to get emotionally attached to a restaurant “without talent” and not backed by a solid business plan. Those restaurants will kill themselves and given the space limitations I have, I stay away from these type of businesses. There are plenty of restaurateurs who think they have talent and have tons of money and usually those places too will fail on their own. I also don’t believe that a bad review can break a restaurant with a solid business plan and I don’t think a good review can keep a “talented” restaurant in business if they don’t manage their money wisely. I’ve never held a review for personal reasons, but I have not reviewed a place because I feel that the restaurant will not survive. On the picture question, yes I am not happy when the photographer comes back with a picture of a smiling owner. Luckily, my art director and photographer will take my suggestions as to what I deem to be an appropriate shot. However, if the restaurant involves a chef who is newsworthy, sometimes I’ll ok a shot for the person no matter what the review. But I feel horrible for a restaurant who gets all excited when the photographer (freelance in our case) comes out and then are crestfallen when the review hits. However, savvy restaurateurs who concentrate on running their businesses instead of worrying about reviews will usually prevail.

One of my biggest pet peeves of the moment is menu writing. In a rush to be “new, fresh, and exciting,” menu writers have stretched the English language to absurdity. I’ve now eaten “wind-dried” tomatoes, hand-picked basil, “inverted” osso buco, “baby” everything—I’m sure you’ve all seen it. Presentation seems to go crazy as well. Please stop serving anything in a martini glass or splattering the rims of plates with chopped parsley or paprika--it never works, it always looks like a war zone. I’m also over meat served on top of potatoes. One of my main concerns about the industry is that chefs are taking themselves too seriously. Sure, everyone wants a shot at their own TV show or line of products, we are living in a food-crazy society now, but I really miss the “Alice Waters” approach to dining where the focus is on real food and real conversation over dinner. Thankfully I do see, underneath the “Fusing Maniacs,” a definite trend toward chef owned and operated small restaurants with menus driven by local ingredients. But, I worry that they won’t survive in our current “wow factor” cuisine society.

Linda, noise level and table spacing both fall under ambiance, which should be one of the major components of any dining review. It is important for readers to know what type of vibe to expect when venturing to a new restaurant. Noise is a hot topic right now. Currently I am carrying a decibel level reader with me on reviews. I want to add a symbol that rates the noise in a restaurant in our listings. However, what you may or may not know is that many restaurateurs are designing noisy restaurants on purpose. Not only does it turn tables faster, noise produces a high-energy vibe that makes people feel like they’re in a happening place. It’s a big problem, at least in my opinion, and I refer to the noise factor frequently. Dining out is about sharing a meal with friends, families, or colleagues. When you can’t carry on a conversation over dinner, we’ve got a problem. Especially in high-dollar eateries.

In the previous posts, Robb and John have emerged as the yin and the yang of ethical dining review policy. Yes times have changed and with it food writers’ visibility, but not to the point that accepting free meals is an acceptable practice. I’ve heard the Mariani rumors (that he dines on free meals, etc) and now that Jack has confirmed the fact, I think it’s fair to say that what Mariani is doing is making us all look bad. It’s one thing to be recognized, it’s another to be catered to no matter what the critic tells the chef or writes in his review. It is an unethical, egomaniacal practice. Maybe Mariani is all about “tough love,” but I’ve seen plenty of freelancers grazing off restaurateurs with stars in their eyes and their reviews have translated into stars on the page. When Jack says, “I don't believe that comp meals preclude an honest review, or that anonymous ones guarantee honesty” I think he’s dead wrong. If you are a critic and accept a free dining experience and then express your opinion to the chef or owner, you become a consultant, not a critic. Period.

Hells bells, Philly four-bells system is more cracked than the Morning News’ 5 stars. First of all, if you’re going to have icons, you need to have at least 5 to allow a broader range. That said, once you assign the icons, you’re stuck. I understand that people want a quick reference guide. The only quick reference guide that makes any sense to me is to break restaurants down by price first and then assign the icons. That way a fabulous diner or a hole-in-the-wall Tex Mex joint can become a 5-Bell/Star dining experiences. But the New York/LA-centric food media continues to promote fine dining restaurants as the only establishments worthy of five-anythings.

Richard, I can’t speak for the editing process at the Dallas Morning News, but I can shed some light as to what happens at my magazine. Once I write something, at least five editors, plus a copy editor reads my review. Believe me, if someone doesn’t understand a sentence or feels that I’ve failed to make a point, I hear about it and am given the opportunity to correct or change my original thought. However, we have the “luxury” of being of monthly publication, which gives us time to reread. I feel that all newspapers suffer from poor editing, but the responsibility of being clear goes to the writer, especially when you are expressing an opinion or a fact.

Raynickben refers to my “ballsy attitude on FrontBurner” which is the name of the daily blog of D Magazine. First of all thanks, and second of all I detest reading long dissections of dishes in a review. All criticism has an innate amount of egotism built into it--we are getting paid to write our opinions. But I tend to gloss over when any writer (food or otherwise) goes too far off. There are better ways to reach a word count requirement and I agree that the main purpose is to provide a reader with an adequate amount of information so that they can decide how to spend their money. However, I believe that you have to balance authority and entertainment in food writing, and turn your phrases appropriately. The Head and Shoulders comment is at least a positive statement, but the image the statement leaves in my taste memory makes me sick at my stomach. And, despite your awe-inspiring alliteration, I would never make it through a paragraph the perfect proscuitto.

Elie, thanks for bringing up a topic that comes up almost daily in my profession, especially from chefs and owners of high-end restaurants. In my mind everyone is a food critic. If you dine at a restaurant and pay for food you will have an opinion about your experience--food, service, ambience, etc. The difference between the average diner and me, or anyone who manages to get paid for their opinion, is that I have learned how to write about my experience. Hopefully what I write is an evaluation that contains a reflection of my experience backed by my knowledge of food. Movie reviewers don’t have degrees in movie criticism although a fair number of them have studied film. The good ones survive. The same holds true for food criticism: those who have worked in the food industry or have extensive hands-on restaurant experience tend to rise to the top. The trick is combining knowledge and writing. I would rather train an experienced writer to be a food critic, than the other way around. A good restaurant critic is truthful and fair and backs up critical statement like “the hollandaise was runny” with a fact like “because the creamy sauce was broken perhaps by overheating.”

Well, Steven (Fat Guy) raises plenty of the questions I faced when tackling this story. First of all, let me say that in my heart, the main emphasis of the story was not Romano’s ludicrous lawsuit, but food reviewing in general; more specifically, the relationship between the restaurant industry and those who “watch” it. I used Romano’s “oxygen of publicity” to raise issues that, until now, have not been discussed publicly—the ever changing role of a food critic and their relationships with restaurateurs. His lawsuit did/does open the gates to a discussion: when you, Fat Guy (Jeez that’s tough to type!) say, “My immediate reaction when I read those passages was to think that the ends don't justify the means -- that immoral acts like filing frivolous lawsuits are unworthy of being applauded, directly or indirectly,” I disagree. Romano, and any other restaurateur, has the right (dang!) to sue frivolously, just as critics have the right to write, sometimes equally frivolously. But, frivolous as we all may be, I viewed the silly lawsuit as an opportunity to raise the bar on the business of restaurants and the reviewing system. I do not like the star rating system and, after talking to scads of local restaurateurs without deep pockets, found that many are frustrated by the system. That said, let’s rumble.

Good morning one and all. I am looking forward to a "meaty" debate on the topics raised in my article. I certainly stirred a hornet's nest of public opinion, especially in the restaurant community. Thanks for asking me to this forum. Now I have a place to discuss, publicly, some of the fall out.