Walrus

Wow, this thread has given me a killer headache There seem to be a lot of themes woven together -- please be patient while I try to sort them out! 1) Charlie Trotter's decision ~3 years ago to stop serving foie gras for ethical reasons, being concerned with the process used to create the product. 2) His recent decision to not ask/restrict visiting chefs from using this ingredient when cooking in this restaurant. 3) Rick Tramanto's preinterview reaction to Trotter's anti-foie gras position. 4) His quotation, "It's a little hypocritical because animals are raised to be slaughtered and eaten every day. . . I think certain farms treat animals better than others. Either you eat animals or you don't eat animals." 5) Charlie Trotter's ill-considered and sarcastic reaction to the above quotation: "Rick Tramonto's not the smartest guy on the block. . . . Yeah, animals are raised to be slaughtered, but are they raised in a way where they need to suffer? He can't be that dumb, is he? It's like an idiot comment. 'All animals are raised to be slaughtered.' Oh, OK. Maybe we ought to have Rick's liver for a little treat. It's certainly fat enough." 6) Some perceived underlying beef between Trotter and Tramonto, in which one or the other feels threatened by the other's mere existence on the Chicago dining scene. In a separate vein: 1) The anti-foie gras protests in California (with which Trotter has actively resisted being aligned). 2) The way in which several extremists tormented Chef Manrique, with which it is highly unlikely that Trotter agrees. 3) The new legislation in Chicago to ban foie gras in restaurants. Finally, 1) A general discussion of whether or not the production foie gras is ethical, using today's methods by today's producers. 2) The question of whether or not modern chefs need to use foie gras to prepare top-of-the-top dishes. Is that it? If my understanding of this thread is correct, it sounds to me as if a kerfluffle has arisen in which each chef felt that his position was being attacked and denounced by the other. My guess is, given the option, both chefs would ask for a do-over. Trotter might stick with simply saying what I believe he's trying to say -- that after visiting several producers of foie gras, he came to the personal decision that he could no longer serve the item in his restaurant because he believed that the methods used to produce the liver were unethical. He might also either indicate in the original article that because this was an individual decision, foie gras would be served at his restaurant for the benefit, as it would be cooked by other chefs who do not share this belief. From Tramonto's quotation, I am extrapolating that in his opinion, the process of producing, e.g., foie gras, lamb, chicken, veal, pork, sausage, etc., etc., can be humane, depending on who's doing it and how. Given a do-over, Tramonto would be given a chance to react to what Trotter was actually saying -- and would possibly say something along the lines of that it was a fine decision for Trotter to make, but that he personally feels that the product can be created ethically and will thus continue to use foie gras from those producers who meet his standards. I find it hard to believe that these two chefs came up with these quotations out of the blue -- can anyone else see them being asked, for example, "Chef Trotter, Rick Tramonto essentially says that you're full of it, saying specifically about your position that, 'It's hypocritical because animals are raised to be slaughtered and eaten every day.' If he were here, how would you respond?" No offense Mr. Caro, but in my view, this article took what could have been an interesting discussion between professionals having to make ethical decisions on a daily basis about what products to incorporate into their art, and disagreeing, and turned it into an ugly and unnecessary cat fight. There was no need to report on this topic in this manner -- this could have been an interesting article simply discussing the merits of both sides, instead of playing the two chefs off one another. Your statement about getting an article on foie gras on the front page, in fact, in my opinion, gives your motives away. In terms of whether or not chefs need to use foie gras, I prefer to leave it where I leave most professional decisions -- in the hands of those making them. Each chef should be allowed to make up his or her own mind about whether or not it is in his or her best interests to use any legal ingredients. As for this thread on eGullet -- I only ask that we all keep in mind several things: 1) As in most cases, a disagreement with your opinion is not an insult, simply a different view of things. 2) I don't believe that anyone on this thread is (yet) pushing the PETA line and demanding that we all give up foie gras and eat only vegan food we've prepared ourselves in an earth-conscious manner. 3) At no time that I have read, heard about, etc., has Charlie Trotter said, acted, or intimated in any way that he supports the attacks on Chef Manrique. Period. If he has, please show us where. 4) In my very own opinion, Chef Trotter was not actually serious about going Lecter on Tramonto's liver. So please, chill out. Yes, poor choice of words and stupid, angry response, but, again in my opinion, not evil or even actually threatening. The sort of thing people say when they're feeling slighted by someone who's not there, but whom they'd trusted until someone else told them what mean things were being said about you (you know, like in 5th grade, when Timmy told you that Sally said that you weren't all that pretty and you said, well she's a stupid idiot. I wish she'd get hit by a bus). You might as well get worked up about people saying, for example, "I'd kill for a slice of foie gras!" Hope you don't mind my adding my own $0.02. ETA: Caro, not Cato (Thanks, FaustianBargain!)

I second Out of the Fire -- it was our introduction to Scrumpy Jack cheese (yum!) and truly the BEST mint chocolate chip ice cream I've ever even dreamed of...fresh mint flavor, like you were eating it off the plant. Amazing. We also ate at Bistro St. Michael's, which was fine, though definitely flavored by the fact that it was prom night, so there were looooots of teens changing tables, awkwardly dating, etc. It was fun to watch, but maybe not the world's best fine dining atmosphere

First, eljo, I can't speak for anyone else, but the reason I responded to the DCist post on Corduroy was that a link to it was posted here on the Corduroy thread. If a link to the other article had been posted on a Les Halles thread, with the same title (e.g., "Les Halles Unsafe?"), etc., I think I would have responded in the same manner. Second, Kanishka -- thanks for your response. My only hesitation would be that I believe that Post piece wasn't a piece on Corduroy, per se, but their regular (?) listing of places with DOH violations. Therefore, I'm not sure that Chef Power needed to respond, as it was a simple stating of the facts -- his was simply one of several restaurants in a list. I really do appreciate your (rare!) ability to step back and listen to what others are saying. I'm sorry if I came off as overly harsh -- I just had a real (negative) gut reaction to the whole debacle. Thanks!

This is exactly the problem with this type of public posting. In my opinion, if Corduroy had been closed down several times, or had been closed for a BIG problem, then yes! It's news! But for there to be this much public discussion about the restaurant's being closed for (among other things) possible paper mites, for heaven's sake, is a) pointless and b) unnecessarily damaging to Tom and to the restaurant's reputation. I understand that the point of a blog is to disseminate information and opinion, but I see no point in publically posting something that to me appears to be actively trying to harm a restaurant, and for no other discernible reason than people who like food like to eat there. For those who argue that Kanishka's blog posting (and then posting links to said blog on discussion sites) was harmless -- or maybe even did Corduroy good -- I point to three specific things that Kanishka wrote that bely that wishful thinking: 1) the title alone: "Corduroy Unsafe?" with a big, green, poisoned face 2) the posting of the link on mentioned discussion boards 3) from the eGullet response: " didn't have time to call Corduroy to find out the back story." The first is at best yellow journalism, the second is a blatant attempt to stir up controversy, and the third is an essential part of journalism (whether traditional or non) that was ignored. In short, I find it hard to believe that this was supposed to simply be a " 'hmm, thats odd' story" and instead feel that this was a malicious, pointless attack -- perhaps to show up those dratted "foodies," perhaps just to drum up readership, but in any case unjust and completely unnecessary. For what it's worth, I have no evidence for this, having never been faced with this situation before, but I firmly believe that I would have the same reaction if this scurrilous post had been made about any other respectable restaurant, whether or not it was a place that I personally enjoyed. Sarah, yes, Corduroy is a lovely place to go. It's got good food and a great staff. I know that you will enjoy your meal there -- try the spring rolls!

True, yet I'd argue that Best Cellars -- and even Bennigan's -- has a place. I would never trade my time at Arrowine for that at BC, but when I know what I want, and I know how much it should cost, and where I can find it for that price, I see no point in avoiding such a source. In addition, in my experiences with BC, I've been able to get reasonable advice from the staff -- certainly I've not had anyone who appeared to be regurgitating the corporate line. In my opinion, BC is a clean, friendly place that offers decent wines at a nice price.

I'll second Best Cellars They have a nice little bottle of Vinho Verde there that we often stock up on (nice, light, and $7 a bottle...how can you go wrong?), and their champagne selection's enjoyable, too. The staff, as mentioned, is always friendly and helpful, and the prices are nice!

I really like shopping at Arrowine, on Lee Highway in Arlingon. They have a great selection that turns over frequently, so I can not only find my favorites but also new things to try and discover. I like their cheeses, their crackers, and their meat selection, too! I used to live just up Connecticut from Calvert-Woodley and never really got into shopping there. It just struck me as dirty and crowded, and not really great for finding things. Plus, every time but once that I've been there, the staff has been rude to me. Phooey!

Mmmm...rissoto fritters... Thanks for the description of what might have gone awry with the risotto, John. One less than perfect dish certainly wouldn't keep me from eating at Firefly -- I'm not sure wild donkeys could do so! I love bringing people who haven't experienced the frites and then watching them as they try to slooooowly slide the frite holder closer to their plate...

The last time we were at Firefly, I had similar issues with the risotto. However, I have been in love with Firefly since before it opened -- we were even there the opening week -- and yet this is the first time the risotto has failed to please. Maybe they're just on a bad streak? Anybody else have a recent risotto experience (positive or negative) they can share?

Sorry! Didn't mean to imply in any way that Benno was somehow inferior -- I just have a total complex about Keller and want to know whether to get my hopes up or not! Thanks for the note about the tour -- I'll give them a ring

This may be a foolish question, but is there any way to know which two weeks of a specific month (say, April 2005) Keller is at Per Se and which two he's at FL? Also, can I assume that the kitchen tour is not something that has to be set up in advance? Or does it? Taking my sweetie to P.S. for his birthday

We ate at the bar at R.E. tonight -- yum, yum, yum. I started with the cauliflower and cheddar soup, with quince compote -- I admit to having been unsure about the quince addition, but then I tried it and wow. The flavors work off of each other in such unexpectedly beautiful ways! I followed with the chicken breast with spinach and baby potatoes. Please note that this is the first time in my life that I have preferred spinach to potatoes! And through no fault of the delicate spuds -- they were delish, but the spinach was perfect. It could simply not have been done any better in any way. Yum. The chicken was excellent as well -- the salty crust was addictive, and the flesh of the bird was lovely and tender. We split a side of the risotto (chanterelle [?] and duck) -- very nice, but the only nonstandout of the meal. Perfect as a side, however, which is perhaps the point! For dessert, I had for the first time ever my very own slice of birthday cake. They’ve tweaked the frosting again, and it was very, very good. Pink and sweet and just like my mom used to make -- seriously! A perfect play off the Cake Bible-esque firmness of the cake itself. I did end up trading a few slivers of cake for one of the fritters my partner in crime had ordered. I did not regret the transaction. The fritters were crisp and light and nicely flavored. The two extraordinary cocktails that Todd, the genius that he is, was presenting were a Red Hot Passion and a Pear…umm…rats, I’ve lost the last word, but it had to be something like Pleasure, because it was…wow. Fermented pear and fermented ginger and at least two other things that have completely left my head because the scent of this drink alone would be enough to knock you loopy. Todd, if you ever launch that line of pear/ginger-scented bath products, I’m there! The Red Hot Passion was also lovely -- a cold beverage (I only got tastes of both these beverages, so please excuse my lack of ingredient information!) with a topping of hot passion fruit foam. This was our first meal at the bar in R.E., and we had a grand old time. There were lots of lovely people, all enthralled by the food and drink, and it was, as always, a pleasure to chat briefly with Todd and Cathal. In one word? Outstanding!

That does sound good! I looooooove deviled eggs! Any ideas more in the Northern Virginia area?

D'oh! I swear that I did a search and no threads came up! Pardon me while I slink away...

Recovering from a year that has had a few too many (if such a thing is possible) meals at Restaurant Eve and a few too few $20 Tuesdays, I'm in search of the best local happy hours. I'd love to spend no more than $20/$30 total for two people, including bevs, but still roll happily home... My current favorite is Mexicali Blues in Clarendon -- good food and great happy hour prices. Lower drink prices (sorry, I usually stick with Dos Equis draft and don't pay attention to what the price difference is!) and it's buy one/get one free appetizers. Yum. There are days I dream of their plantanos fritos... I've also heard that Matuba has $1 sushi Mondays but have not yet been fortunate to take advantage...soon!!! Any suggestions?