Octaveman
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Posts posted by Octaveman
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That is a cool picture. Can you take a few more shots of the blade for me when you get a chance? Being a knife nut, I'd like to see a shot of the heel as you look down the underside of the handle and a picture from above the knife looking at it's spine. These two shots will give me a good idea of taper from spine to edge and heel to tip. Basically like these except with the second picture include the whole length. If you don't mind, it would be greatly appreciated to see what I recommend. :-)
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Yummy
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For me it's steak and scallops
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Most production Nakiri's like Santoku's are close to the 165mm mark with a few longer than that. Hand made Nakiri's as you've obviously seen can vary quite a bit. Carter for example has a 213mm Nakiri up on the same website. I would think anything between 165 and 180mm would be good lengths. The thing with takeda's knives is that they are so light, any reasonable extra length will likely go unnoticed. I had a Nakiri that was 165mm and thought it was a good length but wished it to be a tad longer at times. Probably due to technique issues rather than the knife being too short though.
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Takeda's nakiri's are usually significantly taller than standard brands while not going as tall as a cleaver.
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Say, I read somewhere on this site (if I wasn't misunderstanding the post) that it's not good to use glass something-or-other on Japanese knives? Would this have refered to a honing stone or a sharpening stone of some sort?
Thanks,
Starkman
What you remember probably was referring to glass cutting board or the like. Using a granite counter is also a no no. There are borosilicate (glass) honing rods, steel rods that are glass smooth. There is also a line of glass stones by Shapton but you don't sharpen them on the glass side. The glass provides the plate then they add abrasive to the other side. Although some have tried to sharpen on the smooth glass side, they get nowhere in their endeaver and wonder what their doing wrong. Cracks me up every time I hear a story like this.
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How well that 10-degree edge will hold up is an open question.
If it doesn't hold up well you can put a micro bevel on it to give it some strength. Many people will sharpen their knives very thin to increase it's performance then increase the angle 5* and make a few swipes giving it a micro bevel.
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A word about the Takeda. Like you said it was too short but it is with question on par with Blazen performance and bevel angle wise. Takeda's out of the box angles and sharpness are the most acute you'll ever find. If I recall correctly they are close to 7* per side on average for a gyuto. Too bad it wasn't longer as it certainly can't compete in this manner at this length with 270's. It makes for a completely different knife. If you had a 270, I think you would've found it a tie with the Blazen if not on top from a performance standpoint. But there's the issue with the traditional handle you didn't care for.
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And not tellin' which knife I selected. I so very, very much appreciate all the info that folks took the time to post here, so don't want anyone to think that their efforts were for naught.
Wow, really? Thanks for saving me the months of therapy I surely would've had to endure.
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Quoted from the website......
Note that this is NOT a meat cleaver -- it's a Chinese style chef's knife (just like a santoku is a Japanese style chef's knife).There are so many things wrong what what written here. First, it's NOT a Chinese style chef knife. It's more like a Japanese Nakiri. Second, the websites attempt to correlate a Santoku with this knife is nothing but a blatent attempt to mislead the uninformed public that this is the Chinese version of the Santoku. It's not. AND, to call this thing a cleaver is also a gross mistatement.
Note that Chroma measures blade length from the tip to the metal "pearl" on the handle, so actual blade length is somewhat shorter: on this knife I measured the actual blade length at 13.5cm (5.3")."Do you really want a quasi Chinese cleaver/nakiri/santoku that's only 5.3 inches long?
If you want a cleaver, find a good cleaver like the Suien below.
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Another basic question is how much to expect the temperature in the center to rise during rest, both after the long slow roast and short fast browning.
My wild guess is to pull it out of the low oven at 118 or so, and expect it to not rise all that much. And to pull it out of the hot oven at 122 or so, and expect a bit of rise.
Thoughts??
I've read various reports of a 5 degree change and one as much as a 12 degree change but that one was tented. I can't recall how much increase I had last time I cooked a roast but I would expect at least 5 degrees untented.
BTW, I started home aging last Thursday. Outside is nice and hard not yet turning pretty colors like last time other than darker shades of red. I'm going the low and slow method at around 200 until done, take out at 115 or so to rest, then blast to sear at end.
Also, I have read a bunch of experiences with cooking ribs on and off. Last time I cooked it with the ribs on but this time I cut them off before aging. I wanted to try this so I would get even drying all over the roast. The bones are aging too. I did have a question about making a basic Au Jus. Can I just take beef stock, add the bones, pepper and parsley and simmer? Can anyone give me tips on making a decent Au Jus? Thanks.
Good luck on your roast, Paul. Hope it comes out great.
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154 Tbls of oil? That's 9.5 cups. How would he put that on the sandwich? If he's counting that for the stuff that was deep fried, those items already account for the fat calories AND not all of that oil made it to the sandwich. Oregano has 3 calories per gram. That should read 150 calories, not 450. I'm not going to go through each item BUT......
I'm calling shennanigans on the calorie counts. They are wrong. Huge sandwich though.
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That's it...I'm contacting the FAA, the FTC, the FDA or someone like that because I am truely offended by that picture to the point that it's got to be put in front of me for immediate inspection for um, something.
Good gawd...that looks incredible.
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doc, thanks for the link. I'll order a few things from them. They do have pretty reasonable prices.
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I've eatin the Costco rack-o-lamb and it was more gamey than other lamb I've had. Still very tasty though, just a bit stronger. Their boned leg of lamb though is quite good and I frequently buy that for various dishes.
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I've never seen a santoku that wasn't double beveled. I have been known to be wrong...from time to time. I haven't seen this knife in person so I can't say with 100% certainty but Santoku is typically a double beveled knife. Look at pictures of the Deba, Yanagiba. There is a very distinct bevel that is quite wide. Now look at the pics of the Nakiri and Santoku. That same bevel is not present. These two are double beveled.
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more newbie questions....
And how do these compare to the typical Food Saver rolls you get at Costco for example? I'm assuming the bags linked above can be used with pretty much any model of Foodsaver?
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I'm with you on this too. I have two Oxo locking tongs but with no nylon/silicon tips. Other than for use with non-stick pans, I don't see the point in those. I like the one's that have the lock at the end as I can lock/unlock with one hand.
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Aren't Shun knives notoriously difficult to sharpen correctly? Aren't Shun knives notoriously difficult to sharpen correctly? I think they are honed to a 16-degree angle, which is hard unless you have a lot of experience and the right equipment. For me, a no-expert, it would be difficult to be this precisely.
These knives are not difficult to sharpen. They use a softer steel than the classic line but even then, the classic line is standard VG10 stainless so it's not difficult at all. All the knives in the link that H20 provided are traditional single-beveled Japanese knives EXCEPT the Santoku and Nakiri...they are double beveled like any other western styled knife. Traditional knives are not difficult to sharpen per se but there is a different technique involved. The Wasabi line is definitely their budget line but people who own them seem to like them well enough.
edited to fix my bandaid-covered fingers typo's (sharpened 5 knives last night)
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No need for hunting down someone who can do sharpening justice...I included links to send his knife out for sharpening in my first post. With these services there is no "need" to learn how to do your own sharpening either. If you buy Messermeister or Wusthoff it won't be necessary to send out for sharpening because it just won't help.
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Without hesitation I would recommend Togiharu Molybdenum. It's cheap at $56 and is a very good knife for the money and makes for a good starter knife. When it gets dull he can send it to one of several Japanese knife sharpening services linked below. These are pretty much the only three that I would suggest for getting his knife sharpened. They all know how to properly do the job and will do it by hand on sharpening stones. Very good services by all of them.
Selecting Nakiri Knives
in Kitchen Consumer
Posted
Excellent, thanks. I'm sure the heel will have the same geometry as the tip given the lack of distal taper. It looks like a nice solid knife. Spine thickness under 2mm is pretty thin but near standard for knives like this. Fit and finish of the handle good? No gaps at spine, tang and/or pins and flush with scales? I'm tempted to get a petty in this line.