Would it not be the critics/publications reponsibility to keep abreast of chef changes and report on them? If the critic/publication could not justify the cost of returning to a particular establishment to re-try core items s/he had highly praised once the chef had changed, fine. But perhaps they could justify the cost of publishing a "what's new" sort of buzz column as a catch-all, including chef changes etc and even adding something to the effect of: for chinese restaurant x, favourable comments were made when the food was cooked by chef y who has since moved on, and the new chef z has not yet been reviewed... or something?