Ben, I'm younger than you, but my memory of the immigration and food patterns is similar. I've lived in NYC all my life, and I remember when Sichuan restaurants first arrived in the 70's--the food was seen as exotic, and so very hot. I remember going to places in Chinatown like Say Eng Look (also known as 456) to eat what we called Szechuan food then, but it's funny--my memory of the dishes (hot and sour soup, shrimp with seaweed, lion's head, etc.) doesn't square with what I know now about Sichuan food. Then when "Szechuan" became popular, it sort of got dumbed down, and everything became some kind of "Szechuan/Hunan/Canton" hybrid junk. It's only in the last few years, when places like Wu Liang Ye and Grand Sichuan arrived, that we've gotten back to "real" Sichuan food (or maybe experienced it for the first time?). Even today, though, NYC's Chinatown is dominated by southern Chinese immigrants. The Toyshanese are the oldest, largest and most established group, and their tastes seem to dominate what is available in the stores in "central" Chinatown. You have to go a lot further east (like East Broadway or Grand Street) to find the stores frequented by the more recent immigrants. There are probably even more of them in Flushing (Queens), but I'm not at all familiar with the Flushing Chinatown.