I think the reason Grimes gave so much real estate to Pepin's canned peaches recipe is because he wanted to criticize Pepin for catering to the Canned Food Alliance, which is, according to the article, one of his show's sponsors. I agree that it's rather shocking to have brioche and canned peaches in the same recipe. If it's winter and fresh peaches are too pricey, why not riff on the dessert with pears or apples? To me, it looks like Pepin is giving special treatment to de facto advertisers. Kind of like James Beard cooking on an electric range. Puh-leeze.
