chifoodie

The most amazing thing about the discussion about price and the value of the meal at a restaurant like per se, is the fact that no one is even mentioning the fact that Per Se could charge double that price and still NEVER MAKE MONEY. This restaurant will certainly generate tons of cash flow, and it will be profitable, but it cost $12 million to develop. Even if that is assumed to be hyperbole, then it cost $8 million. Someone (the developers) had to foot that bill, and it will take a long, long time for them to see their investment repaid. I read once where Keller took roughly 85 people per night at the laundry. If it is a similar number at Per Se, then I would venture that $7.5 million per year gross is reasonable and it will take roughly 9-12 years to repay the developer without the cost of capital being considered. Per Se is a bargain and it is a bargain of the highest order. Ultimately, it is a marketing tool -- a loss leader -- to sell office and residential space at very high rates. But God Bless Chef Keller for keeping the price where he has.... it could have been a lot higher.

I dined at Moto last week. I wanted to love it, I really did, but alas, I did not. Chef Cantu is to be commended for his efforts to be creative, but in many cases the creativity was overwhelmed by flavors that did not contrast or coexist well. This coming from an experienced fan of experimental cuisine including stops in Paris, London, NYC, San Fran, as well as the Trotter, Keller, Achatz and chefs of that calibur. When I write this review, these are the benchmarks I am comparing Moto to because: 1) of the degustation format and price, and 2) Chef Cantu's experience. The herbacious utensils dish looks great, but the single bites they deliver are just OK. Without really making an effort to get your nose on right up on the herbs, it also doesn't work as an olfactory addition. The virtual smoke box, however, did work and was a pleasant addition to the dish. Other dishes were plated by servers who needed plenty more experience... our server(s) was earnest, wanted to please, but simply seemed nervous and overwhelmed. He was also charged with plating some dishes at the table (the egullet-famous steamed bass in a box) -- and while the bass was a highlight (great flavor, perfect texture), the box interesting, watching the server struggle to gingerly remove the bass from the box and plate it elegently was something that I wish Chef Cantu could watch... I think he would come out and do it himself! The atmosphere is stark, clean, and NYC. Techno music at 140 beats per minute drove the evening. An odd contrast for a long tasting menu, even such an experimental one. The waiters' black lab coats were a great thought -- very asian, somehow. Some dishes were good, some others missed the mark entirely. On the whole, one was left feeling that this was a bit of a sterile exercise. Transitions from one course to another seemed slap-dash -- unrelated and surprising in a mixed-up way. One did not feel a sense of unified whole here.. I really hope the service and atmosphere improve. There are fixable problems here, and I love to see that another Chicago area restaurant has embraced this style of cuisine. Keep in mind that there was also no wine service yet and the restaurant has been opened only about a month. I should also add that I am a long time reader of Inventolux' posts on this forum, and that I respect him (Chef Cantu) very much. I post this honest review in that light -- real feedback from a culinary fan. I will personally give Moto another try, waiting a few months for them to get everything in order.

I first ate at CT's about 9 years ago, and have eaten there multiple times per year every year since. There has been a slow, steady, and palpable decline in the food, service, and level of excitement in the restaurant. Maybe it's just that, hey, they have been doing this style of food for more than a decade.... CT isn't there much, is rich, middle aged, and doesn't have the fire anymore. It wasn't old hat after the first 10 times, but now, I have to tell you, I get invited and decline the free meal.... Exciting cuisine is all around... NYC, Japan, Spain, Italy, and right here in the heartland at Trio is the best synthesis of all of that that I have seen.... Trotters was very influential... I think it is past its prime. I would be very surprised to see it last another 3 years.