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zora

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by zora

  1. I follow a recipe carefully only if it's using a technique I haven't used before, or is in a totally new cuisine to me and I'm not sure what the flavors should be--but both of these cases are rare now. Often, I'll take the flavors suggested by a recipe and combine them some other way--recently grilled a duck and made a sauce for it with the ingredients I'd originally been planning to braise the thing with, and that kind of thing. And some of the best, most satisfying things I've ever made have been totally invented, based on little scraps I've had left in the fridge--but this is a double-edged sword. I was lucky enough to live with an Indian guy for a while who would just nip into the kitchen and "whip up a curry," while I was still measuring out, teaspoon by teaspoon, all the spices. After watching Wilson freestyle, I finally was able to cut loose--but unfortunately the most delicious lamb curry I ever made can never be recreated because who knows what the hell I put in it... Basically, I just remember techniques--and this is the strongest knowledge base I have for improvising. So I have only a few recipes in my head--one for braising, one for roasting, one for pan sauce, one for pasta sauce, etc.--and they're adjusted according to what ingredients look good or what flavors I'm craving. But like chrisamirault, for technical, chemical-reaction things, I have to consult a recipe--to remember the proportions of butter and flour in a white sauce, for instance. Those kind of details fall out of my head after a month or so of not making the recipe.
  2. Phyllis touts the Greens program, to pull in younger members--but I duly signed up online about a year ago, and still have not been contacted. I suppose they were busy with other activities at the time... In my one visit to the JBHouse (as a guest of a PR firm touting its new hotel), I was astonished at the high percentage of doddering ladies in pearls and Chanel suits--certainly not the typical foodies I'd innocently expected. I huddled with the chef's wife and the PR people--more informative and fun.
  3. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, October 2004 (10th Anniversary Issue; a shout-out to Penelope Gil on the cover) First: Colman Andrews looks back at the magazine’s first issue, 10 years ago. Fare: Kitchen Radio: Legends like Lou "The Glue" Marcelli are on a 13-part NPR series on Morning Edition beginning October 1. By Peggy Knickerbocker A Cuppa Kava: Eric Goodman participates in a Fijian kava ceremony, using the traditional herbal sedative. The Grape Escape: The new movie Sideways, starring Paul Giamatti, is set in Santa Barbara wine country. By Margo True Bulldog Party: El Bulli began as a beach stand near the French border, with Czech-Swiss owners. By George Semler Recipe: Magret de Pato Perfumado al Brandy con Trufas y Setas (duck breast in brandy sauce with truffles and mushrooms) Texas Tartare: The town of Castroville, 25 miles west of San Antonia, has Alsatian roots with a Texan accent: the local steak tartare has chopped onions, american cheese and lemon juice, and is served on saltines. By Paula Disbrowe Recipe: Castroville Parisa Béchamel U. Turns 20: Two decades of NYC's French Culinary Institute. By Stephanie Ogozalek On the Side: high-end ballpark food, though not yet at Yankee Stadium yet (so terribly true), where they're sticking with Cracker Jack—not Crunch 'n Munch; Chefcards are like baseball cards, but chefs are the "players"; Jay-Z has a dedicated chicken-wing chef; Atkins dieter pushes limits of all-you-can-eat buffet Agenda: Kaikoura Seafest in NZ, dedicated to crustaceans; Erddig apple festival in Wales; Afamia grape fest in Cyprus; Oct. 8 is the anniversary of the Domino sugar trademark (1901); Oct. 12 is Luciano Pavarotti's birthday (1935); West Virginia black walnut fest; Kansas and national cornhusking contests One Good Bottle: El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Old Vines Grenache 2002 ($11): "a low-key charmer…very food-friendly." Book Review: The Breath of a Wok: Unlocking the Secrets of Chinese Wok Cooking Through Recipes and Lore, by Grace Young and Alan Richardson. Madhur Jaffrey reviews, with general praise (and tips from book such as seasoning your wok by frying flat Chinese chives), but wonders if home stoves are powerful enough to develop true "wok hay." {I have a tip: "unscrew the nipple" (scroll down)} Recipe: Lee Wan Ching's sizzling pepper and salt shrimp Drink: The New South The Mâconnais, in southern Burgundy, produces many mediocre wines—and increasing quantities of very good ones. By Patrick Matthews Tasting notes: From Verget Macon-Villages 2003 ($15; "fresh and clean…ample chardonnay") to Chateau-Fuissé Vieilles Vignes Pouilly-Fuissé 2002 ($50; "creamy, smooth and fruity") Essay: Authenticity: It's the Real Thing Colman Andrews says the only way to get close to "authentic" cooking is to know the people behind the tradition. Cellar: Edgy and Intense Mourvèdre yields distinctive wines from Bandol to the Sierras to McLaren Vale. By John Winthrop Haeger Tasting notes: 12 mourvèdres and mourvèdre blends, from Joseph Swan Russian River Valley Mourvèdre ($16; "camphor and wet earth" to Ridge California Pato Vineyard Mataro 2002 ($N/A; "huge ultra-ripe nose of berry preserves") Source: Canadian Mennonite farmers make smoky summer sausage. By Shane Mitchell Classic: Chilaquiles (stale corn tortillas doused in spicy tomato sauce) are a great poor man's dish. By Carolynn Carreño Recipe: Chilaquiles Fragrant Feasts of Lucknow: Two centuries ago, the rulers of this refined North Indian city created an aromatic, extravagant cuisine that lives on today. By Margo True Recipes: Kundan Khaliya (kid goat curry wrapped in gold) Murgh Zafrani (saffron chicken) Dhungare Baigan (smoked eggplant with yogurt and onion) Parcha Pulao (kid goat pilaf cooked in spiced meat stock) Galawat Kebabs ("melt-in-the-mouth" kid goat kebabs) Dabi Arvi ka Salan (taro in onion sauce) Sidebar: Recipe Detectives: local food writers had trouble getting recipes from secretive Lucknow cooks, but now have a book to show for their work: Dastarkhwan-e-Awadh: The Cuisine of Awadh Sidebar: Garnishes That Glitter: how to work with gold and silver leaf Guide: hotels, restos, and sights in Lucknow Singing for Our Supper: When two musicians from Texas go on tour in Europe, good food isn't an afterthought—it's a daily obsession. Country food in Switzerland, France, Spain and Italy, by Joe Gracey Recipes: Cervéla (Hansreudi's family salad) Salsiccia Nostrana alla Griglia con Fagioli all-Uccelletto (grilled sausage with white beans) Almejas con Jamón (steamed clams with ham in white wine) {mmm—from Cal Pep in Barcelona} Espuma de Limón (lemon foam; also boosted from Cal Pep) Guide: hotels and great road food in Europe A Saveur Roundtable: Ten years of cooking and eating in America, 1994–2004: To celebrate our first decade of publication, we invited key food figures from around the country to sit down with us for lunch (we ate both carbs and protein) and explore a menu of meaty topics. By Colman Andrews The participants: Robert Schueller, Deborah Madison, Zarela Martínez, Mario Batali, Dorothy Kalins, Darrell Corti, Marion Nestle, Rich Melman, Chuck Williams, Mimi Sheraton and Colman Andrews {No Atkins discussion, despite the ref in the dek. The confab seems heavily edited—very broad comments on an equally broad range of topics. Also, there's a very funny picture of Andrews looking very fierce at the head of the table. Recipes are all from Barbuto, where the lunch took place.} Recipes: Crostini di Baccalà (salt cod cake on grilled toast) Insalata di Calamari Gremola & Aioli (salad of squid, wild chicory and chickpeas with lemon-garlic sauce) Maccheroni con Funghi Selvaticci (tube-shaped pasta with wild mushrooms) Manzo ai Ferri (grilled skirt steak with grilled chiles) Cavolfiore (roasted cauliflower with black olives and bread crumbs) Finocchio e Pecorino (shaved fennel with pecorino) Torta al Limone (almond-lemon cake) Sidebar: Ten Years of Food and America: a timeline ranging from the opening of the French Laundry to the death of Julia Child Sidebar: Puck the Pioneer: Short interview with Wolfgang Puck Tailgating at Ole Miss: If football can be considered a religion in these parts, then pregame picnics at the Grove are its church suppers – for up to 60,000 people. By Carolyn Carreño Recipes: Caramel cake Cream cheese dip with chutney Black-eyed pea corn bread Hot onion soufflé Grilled pork tenderloin with Jezebel sauce Breakfast casserole Only the Very Best Meat Tafelspitz isn't just a variety of boiled beef; it's one of the treasures of Viennese gastronomy—indeed, of Viennese culture. By Ann McCarthy Recipe: Tafelspitz Sidebar: Boiled Beef Matters: The importance of the cut of meat, as seen in an excerpt from Joseph Wechsberg's story "Tafelspitz for the Hofrat." In the Saveur Kitchen: A staffer's variation on the Ole Miss breakfast casserole; add smoky flavor to Lucknow dishes with live coals set in onion "cups," then placed in the dish and drizzled with ghee—cover and let smoke; how usli ghee differs from French clarified butter; soup of tafelspitz broth over shredded crepes is a traditional Viennese starter Recipes: Sue Raye's breakfast casserole {different from the Ole Miss recipe in that it uses cream of mushroom soup!} Usli Ghee (Indian clarified butter) Frittatensuppe (shredded crepes in beef broth) Kitchen: Chef Andrew Abruzzese in Bucks County, Pa., uses two big islands, a walk-in refrigerator, and slate flooring just in front of the stove, fridge and walk-in. In the Saveur Library: Moghul Cooking: India's Courtly Cuisine, by Joyce Westrip (Serif, 1997): sumptuous, easy-to-follow recipes Moment: The backs of itinerant grape pickers dot a field in Champagne, 1998
  4. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    More catch-up... Traveling and changing software delayed this one. Sorry about that. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Saveur, August/September 2004 First: Colman Andrews explains why 80-year-old Marcella Hazan gets the cover story: "she is intolerant of stupidity and immune to fad and fashion…. She's not a saint, exactly; she's the real thing." Fare: Greek Cooler: The glory of the frappe, the genius Greek application of Nescafe. By Kathleen McCabe Recipe: Nescafe Frappe Noodles Galore: The easily astonished Regina Schrambling discovers vermicelli noodles are part of Indian cuisine, thanks to an in-flight meal. Recipe: Seviyan Pulau (vermicelli pilaf) Riding the Tasty Rails: Lunchbox meals available at Japan's train platforms. By Hiroko Shimbo Football Nuts: History of the Ohio State buckeye. By Sara Bir Recipe: Peanut butter buckeyes Baking the Part: Baker Sarah Black consulted on the short-lived pastry-centric Broadway play Sixteen Wounded. On the Side: Barilla's new shrine to pasta; a politicians' cookbook; Lost in Translation inspires food tours in Tokyo; Japan is anti-additive, which upsets the European business community Agenda: Watermelon festival in Hope, Ark.; herb festival in Lismore, New Zealand; Aug. 22 is the anniversary of the founding of the United Farm Workers Organizing Committee (1966); breadfruit fest in Bath, Jamaica; Mary See of See's Candies fame born Sept. 15, 1851; cous cous fest in San Vito Lo Capo, Italy; 10th annual corndog fest in Dallas One Good Bottle: Topanga Vineyards Edna Valley Edna Ranch Syrah 2001 ($27): "nicely gamy but with real Rhône-ish elegance" Book Review: Eating My Words, by Mimi Sheraton, and Sirio, by Sirio Maccioni. eGullet's own Steven A. Shaw reviews this two gossip-heavy exposes of restaurant intrigue in the 1970s and 1980s (Sheraton as a NY Times critic, Maccioni as owner of Le Cirque). Drink: Greek Revival Ancient vineyards in Macedonia are being reinvented; the xynomavro grape is key. By Diane Kochilas. Sidebar: High-end retsina fails—so it's back to the traditional recipe. Tasting notes: 11 Macedonian wines, from tart but grapey Stelis Kechris Xinomavro 2001 ($11) to "rich, chewy, tannic" Domaine Anestis Babatzimopoulos Cabernet 2001 ($25) Cellar: Looking at Bordeaux Roger Morris reviews reds from Long Island. Tasting notes: 12 bordeaux-style reds, from Comtesse Therese Hungarian Oak Merlot 2002 ($15; "tons of agreeable tannins, suggesting this one be laid down") to Macari Alexandra 2000 ($65; "celery seed in the nose…soft oak finish") Memories: The Fountain of Youth Robert Sherrill reminisces about working as a curbhop for the Norwood Pharmacy in N.C., in 1939. Sidebar: Soda-jerk speak (including "flatwich," for a double-sided grilled sandwich) Recipe: Banana split Source: Atlantic smoked salmon from Max & Me. By Stephanie Ogozalek Classic: Vietnamese summer rolls date from the 15th century. By Camas Davis Recipe: Goi Cúôn Sót Túóng (summer roll with dipping sauce) Drawing Out the Flavor: The secret of Italian home cooking resides within the ingredients themselves: Marcella Hazan tells us that supermarket lamb chops and other basic items are fine if you use the Italian technique of insaporire ("making tasty" through long sautéing). Recipes: Zuppa dell'Ortolano (greengrocer's soup with onion, peppers, rapini and potatoes) Carciofi Saltati e Fusi al Forno con la Mozzarella (sautéed artichokes baked with mozzarella) Risotto di Zucca, Porri e Vongole (risotto with butternut squash, leeks and clams) Ragù di Vitello col Sughetto di Peperoni Rossi, Verdi e Gialli (veal pasta sauce with red, green and yellow peppers) Baja Napa: A small valley in the "other" California is making wine history with everything from cabernet to chasselas to nebbio. By Colman Andrews Recipes: Sopa de Calabacín y Coliflor con Camarones (squash and cauliflower soup with shrimp) Ensalada Tibia de Codorníz (warm quail salad) Sorbet de Melón con Granizado de Limón (melon sorbet with lemon granita) Sidebar: Tasting notes on wines from Valle de Guadalupe, from light, clean sauvignon blanc–semillon Monte Xanic Viña Kristel 2002 ($8) to tempranillo-cab Casa de Piedra Vino de Piedra 2002 ($60). Guide: hotels, restos, fiestas and wineries in Valle de Guadalupe Farmers of the Sea : The hardy oystermen of Arcachon sleep, eat and nurture their precious crops by the tides. (More French rusticity…) By Nancy Coons Recipes: Huîtres Grillées au Beurre Blanc (grilled oysters with butter sauce) Huîtres Rôties au Vin Blanc (roasted oysters with white wine) Huîtres Gratinées (broiled stuffed oysters) Moules au Jambon de Bayonne (steamed mussels with Bayonne ham) Soupe des Pêcheurs (fishermen's soup) Huîtres en Beignet (oyster fritters) Bar Grillé (grilled sea bass) Bar aux Raisins (sea bass with grapes) Sidebar: France's best bivalves: other major oyster-producing areas Sidebar: Months with an R: buy summer oysters from a reputable source Sidebar: "Aw, shucks" no more: how to shuck an oyster, with pictures Quintessential California: San Francisco's 25-year-old Zuni Café is not a perfect restaurant—which might just be why everybody loves it. By Thomas McNamee Recipes: Piccolo Fritto (deep-fried celery hearts, squid and lemon slices with aïoli) Chicken livers with bacon, pickled onions, Zante grapes and watercress Frisée salad with hazelnuts, parmigiano-reggiano and roasted prune-plums Hanger steak with salmorejo sauce, white beans and spinach Grilled whole favas ("lick your oily, salty fingertips; it's part of the dish") Spaghetti with clams Zuni Gâteau Victoire Roast chicken with bread salad In the Saveur Kitchen: Keep clams fresh in a damp towel in a bowl in the fridge; dates stuffed with mascarpone; hot citrusy sangrita chases tequila; how to trim hanger steak; cooking tips from Judy Rodgers; North American black walnuts; the Russell Harrington short Boston 3-inch oyster knife is recommended Recipes: Salmorejo sauce Black walnut sauce Kitchen: Marcella Hazan's kitchen has sliding doors and deep drawers under the sink (place drains at the rear of the sink). Moment: A Chinatown residents sips soup on a fire escape in NYC, 1998
  5. zora

    The New Yorker Food Issue

    I _still_ haven't had time to read the food issue, but I'm really looking forward to the Futurist story. Many years ago, I was browsing the cookbook section in the IU Bloomington library (a sure sign that I shouldn't have been bothering with grad school anyway), and stumbled across the Futurist Cookbook. I thought it was hilarious that it was filed under cooking, rather than art, and I've kept my own copy filed that way ever since...should I be wanting a recipe for "The Excited Pig" or what have you. (I did read "Killing Dinner," though. GH's writing is what made me love her food in the first place. She's so sharp.)
  6. zora

    Chewing the Blubber!

    Getting back to the original topic of the thread... I was in Oslo several years ago and cooked up some whale meat myself. Friends advised we cook the hell out of it--it's no good medium-rare. We did a braise with onions and wine--we did taste the meat after a bit, while it was still rare-ish, and it was nastily fishy and strong tasting. We let it simmer a while longer--maybe 45 mins total? In the end, it had mellowed out substantially and was quite good: rich and only faintly fishy. The oddest bit for me was the texture--a lot more like liver (with a little liver flavor, too) than any grained piece of flesh. Probably wouldn't go out of my for it again, but I'm glad I ate it, and I don't begrudge other people eating it. I think the number of people left in the world who have a strong taste for whale meat is now so relatively small that they alone won't be putting a big dent in the whale population. But of course I could be grossly misinformed...
  7. zora

    Chiles en Nogada

    I'm pretty sure there weren't. Would've been a nice salty balance element, though, now that I think about it...
  8. zora

    Chiles en Nogada

    Just got back from the Yucatan, and it's high chiles en nogada season, leading up to the patriotic frenzy of Independence Day on Sept. 15-16. I had delicious, non-battered chiles en nogada at a new restaurant in Tulum called Cetli, in L'Hotelito on the main highway in town. The woman who cooks, waits tables, buses, etc.--the only woman who works there--is doing refined traditional stuff, and it's generally pretty good...or my chiles en nogada were: fairly light, thin sauce with a strong walnut flavor, and a really tasty filling with distinct chunks of fruit in the pepper, which had been nicely charred. My boyfriend had some peanut mole that was not so great--the sauce was more of a barely peanutty broth, and all just a bit too delicate to be satisfying. Also, they don't have a liquor license. And the cream-cheese-and-chile-jam on crackers snack was undeniably good, but just reminded me of my parents' cocktail parties in the early 80s in New Mexico--way too dated. Otherwise, though, this woman seems like a smart cook, and the place is insanely cute. Also very cheap considering the level of preparation that goes into things--and no more expensive than any of the non-Mexican sit-down options in Tulum. Worth a stop even if you don't get there before chiles en nogada disappear after September 15...
  9. The best falafel I've had was from street carts in Aleppo: the huge, pretty thin Syrian-style pita isn't opened up, just used as a base. The best guys mash the falafel a tiny bit as they're laying it in the pita, breaking it open a little, then they put on tons of fresh herbs: mint, scallions... It's topped with garlicky yogurt, not tahini, and all wrapped up tidily. Washed down with a hand-pumped espresso from the adjacent street cart, it was the perfect breakfast. Once again, one of those things I wish I'd eaten more of, even though I was stuffed at the time.... I won't even say how much (little) these things cost, because it just makes me want to cry.
  10. I went to B&N and flipped through a few, but nothing really grabbed me. I know a little bit about Turkish food, but not all that much, so something with culture/history/regional differences would be good. Or what the heck, just something with some tasty recipes...
  11. zora

    Huevos Motulenos

    Seems like the secret to all the distinctive flavor would be in the magic motuleño sauce... That Siqueff page said it chicharron in it.
  12. zora

    Huevos Motulenos

    The 1,000 Mexican Recipes one sounds exactly like what you'd get served in the Yucatan. I always thought it was kind of gross, but....it's "authentic" (I think some restaurant in Mérida claims to have invented it--the chef was from Motul or something). Edited to add: And those are fried _sweet_ plantains, just to make the whole dish extra weird. Edited to add: The resto in Mérida is Siqueff (scroll down), and this page (scroll down) for a description and picture of the dish.
  13. Great essay--and all the previous ones too! (Duh--hadn't realized all the pieces I liked, plus that Gastronomica SFA article, were all by the same person....I should've recognized the Southern argot.)
  14. I can't tell from your description: Was it a casserole-type dish, or were all the ingredients separate? I've had two Middle Eastern eggplant/pom combos: 1) In a recent issue of Food & Wine (July? Check the digests...), Paula Wolfert did a story on a chef in Istanbul, and the recipe for eggplant and lentils baked with pomegranate syrup is incredibly delicious. (Follow her advice on letting it sit for a few hours or overnight--much better.) It's basically peppers, onions, eggplant, tomato paste, lentils, Turkish red pepper, mint, and pomegranate syrup. 2) In Syria, I had grilled slices of eggplant topped with chopped raw garlic, shredded basil and a big drizzle of pomegranate syrup. Since then, I've also mixed up this flavor combo as a cold salad, roasting the whole eggplant and mashing it a little, a la baba ghanouj. That you can just do to taste...
  15. zora

    Food/Cooking Magazines

    Cook's Illustrated without a doubt. Christopher Kimball deserves to be smacked upside the head occasionally (never, ever read the editor's letter if you don't want to lose your lunch over the smarminess), but I have learned more from that magazine than from anything else. Great explanations of food science, and total obsession with technique. Fine Cooking has a lot of the same features, with a glossier presentation--and iguana's right, they're not so pedantic in their tastes. It might be great, but I got hooked on CI too early. The two seem to overlap so much in the how-to department that it doesn't seem worth getting both. But you'll probably want to flesh out the rigid New England B&W austerity of CI with something more colorful and relaxed. Of all the glossy mags, I prefer Food & Wine because they incorporate more adventurous ingredients, and their 'quick' section is usually pretty good. Saveur is great, though I've cooked recipes out of it, like, twice. Definitely worth subscribing just to help keep the enterprise afloat and encourage their excellent work.
  16. zora

    Cooking Burns and Scars

    Cooking bacon at the age of 3, standing on a stool and dealing with a very wobbly griddle--the whole thing tipped and landed a big blob of hot bacon fat on the top of my left thigh. Fortunately for my mother's creeping sense of guilt ("What was I thinking? Why did I even let you in the kitchen?!"), the scar finally faded away a few years ago. But i don't hold a grudge--I'm glad my mom let me cook! (Where I then proceeded to sear my arm on the waffle iron a few years later...no lasting scar, though.) I worked with a chef in college who claimed you were either a burner or a cutter--you'd have predominant way of maiming yourself in the kitchen. I'm definitely a burner. I have about four burns healing right now. (Geez, wait--isn't that something that happens to lepers a lot? Maybe I should have this checked out...)
  17. Ooh, and the NY Times food section this week mentions a yummy-sounding purslane salad with an anchovy dressing. [Edited to add I just reread your post and realized you were aking specifically about Mexican uses. Sorry--I just see the word purslane and go all crazy. Anyway, the Mexican guys I get it from say they just saute it with a little onion and tomato. Funny--that's exactly what the Greeks say too.]
  18. Well, first there's this, which just so happens to be by me: Purslane article from Daily Gullet And there's also this thread going: Purslane--what to do with it? And I just fried some up with a little garlic, and put some thick yogurt and lemon on top. As with spinach, you really don't need any water to cook it--purslane already holds so much, and takes only a couple of minutes to wilt.
  19. zora

    TDG: A Weed by Any Other Name

    That sounds like some task from mythology: "Go forth and separate the pigweed from the hogweed, young-man-full-of-promise..." I don't envy you. Thanks to everyone for the compliments!
  20. zora

    TDG: A Weed by Any Other Name

    I have no idea what you ate, Maggie, but if it's any comfort (and I hope your tongue has recovered), "Wildman" Steve Brill does praise purslane as a very safe thing to forage because nothing poisonous resembles it. (But do let me know if you had any, ah, visions!) As for the whole pigweed red herring, I was just reading a book on Aboriginal food, and that referred to purslane (clearly--there were pics) as pigweed. So there might be the added problem of different names in different countries. I haven't seen lamb's quarters/pigweed/quelites growing wild, but maybe I just haven't been looking the same way as I have for purslane!
  21. "It would've been better with dessert"--seems like kind of a global criticism, huh? Thanks for breaking down the food groups--sounds sensible to me! (And comforting to know they're not being changed all the time...I totally missed that whole shift from "The Four Food Groups" I learned in school to this weird food pyramid.)
  22. zora

    Making Fish Tacos

    A few years ago, Carolyn Carreño wrote a nice piece about fish tacos for Saveur, but I don't see it in the database on their website. If I think of it when I get home, I'll dig through my old issues and see if I can what she had to say. Or else I'll discover I imagined the whole thing. Is there a crema/mayo divide in Mexico? I go to the Yucatan a lot, and all the fish tacos (or better, shrimp) there are served with gobs and gobs of mayo. Delish, with lime and pico de gallo. In fact, in the grocery stores, mayonnaise takes up easily half an aisle. Ironic, considering Americans' love of salsa...
  23. Her recipe actually says specifically 'black pepper' to be rubbed on the fish...
  24. There is a recipe, with a lot of detail on how to build the fire properly--and instructions that it takes almost an hour to cook! One tip: "the inside of the fish is to face the blowing wind." She doesn't recommend a particular spice rub--just salt and pepper--before cooking, but says it's served with a sauce of parsley, tomatoes, onion, garlic, with tamarind sauce and curry powder. Also served with pickled mango. (One small complaint with the book is that 'curry powder' is often called for--with no explanation I can find for what spices are typically predominant in this mix. Somehow I doubt Iraqis are using the supermarket McCormick blend...but as with a Jaffrey book, for instance, there are a lot of suggestions for how American cooks can adapt a dish--and how she has done so. It's just frustrating not to know what the original is sometimes.) Another grilled fish recipe calls for a marinade of grated onions, garlic, cumin, coriander and lemon juice.
  25. This is great! Just curious--are the food groups (shown in the chart) pretty much the same as in the US? Is there any kind of standard recommendation of proportions, a la the problematic American food pyramid?
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