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zora

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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  1. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, December 2006 First: James Oseland explains how to be a regular contributor to the mag: bring the editorial staff presents like giant puffball mushrooms! Fare: Prize Herd: Cesare Castella of NYC’s Maremma resto has imported the chianina cow to the US. By Sophie Menin RIP Johnny Apple. By Bryan Miller Forbidden Fruits: Ramin Ganeshram sings the praises of Trinidad’s holiday “black cake.” Recipe: Trinidad Black Cake Massaging the Persimmon: the tradition of hoshi gaki – massaged, dried persimmon – is preserved in California. By Laurence Hauben Agenda: First Royal Smithfield Show of livestock in London, Dec. 2, 1799; Home-ec activist Ellen Richards born Dec. 3, 1842, in Dunstable, Mass.; Gloggprovning in Stockholm, Dec. 9; Community Olive Press Day Dec. 10 in Glen Ellen, Calif.; Colonial Christmas Dinner in Darien, Ga., Dec. 16; Community Chanukah Party, Dec. 17 in Taos, N.M.; Dongji (winter solstice) in South Korea, Dec. 22; Owru Yari (New Year’s Eve) in Paramaribo, Surinam, Dec. 29–31 Book Review: Five favorite winter food books: *Into the Vietnamese Kitchen: Treasured Foodways, Modern Flavors, by Andrea Nguyen; reviewed by James Oseland *Blithe Tomato: An Insider’s Wry Look at Farmer’s Market Society, by Mike Madison; reviewed by Liz Pearson *Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor, by Hervé This; reviewed by Todd Coleman *Joy of Cooking: 75th Anniversary Edition, by Irma S. Rombauer, Marion Rombauer Becker and Ethan Becker; reviewed by Georgia Freedman *Mrs. Rowe’s Restaurant Cookbook: A Lifetime of Recipes from the Shenandoah Valley, by Mollie Cox Bryan; reviewed by Lily Binns Recipe: Banana Pudding The Saveur List: 8 Food Gifts, from Carr Valley Cheese to pomegranates. By Kate Fox Ingredient: Winter Sun: Jerusalem artichokes are a cold-weather favorite whose taste is sweet and warm. By Shane Mitchell Recipe: Sautéed Jerusalem Artichokes Cellar: War of the Riojas Spain’s celebrated red wine fuels an ongoing debate. By Michael Steinberger Tasting notes: 12 riojas, from Marqués de Riscal Reserva 2001 ($16; “wood spice…and…sweatiness on the nose…excellent value”) to CVNE Imperial Gran Reserva 1996 ($65; “a burly wine, with sweetish black fruit…oaky, but with good depth and structure”) Reporter: Joy Sticks: Chopsticks etiquette is little understood outside Asia. By Ari Tye Radetsky Sidebar: Disposable chopsticks are a substantial drain on forests. Classic: Holiday Spice: Pfeffernuss cookies signify Christmas in Germany—and beyond. By Maria Speck Recipe: Pfeffernüsse (German spice cookies) Provence Noël In the south of France, a baker and his friends carry on the sweet rituals of Christmas. By Nancy Coons Recipes: Saumon Pauché à la Mayonnaise (whole poached salmon with cold mayonnaise) Gratin de Courge (squash gratin) Pompe à l’Huile (sweet olive oil bread) Salade de Céleri (celery salad) Anchoïade (anchovy dip with crudités) Sidebar: Birth of the Little Saints: miniature clay crèche scenes expand to include Provencal notables. Sidebar: 13 Symbols of Christmas: a traditional “gros souper” ends with 13 desserts The Guide: Where to stay and eat and what to do in Provence The Power of Sour Tamarind adds tartness—and intrigue—to many of the world’s favorite dishes. By Madhur Jaffrey Recipes: Agua de Tamarindo (sweet tamarind drink) Rasam (spicy tomato and tamarind soup) Tamarind-Glazed Pork Chops Imli Ki Meethi Chutney (tamarind chutney with bananas and golden raisins) Sinigang na Hipon (Philippine sour shrimp stew) Sidebar: Making Tamarind Extract Liquid Gold On the French Caribbean island of Martinique, all roads lead to rum. By Wayne Curtis Recipes: Hot Buttered Rum Ti’ Punch Martinique Milk Punch Dave Wondrich’s Rum Punch Sidebar: A Martinique Rum Primer Sidebar: Finding Sugarcane-Juice Rum The Guide: What to do and where to eat in Martinique Christmas at Currandooley A fifth-generation Australian ranching clan returns to the family seat for a holiday feast beneath the blazing December sun. By Chloe Osborne Recipes: Christmas Ham Crab Apple Jelly Christmas Pudding with Custard Sauce Currandooley Dressing (Meyer lemon and garlic dressing) The Age of Casseroles They were easy. They were chic. They were the most delicious dishes of their day. By Irene Sax Recipes: Shepherd’s Pie Tuna-Noodle Casserole Tamale Pie Chicken Divan Sidebar: A Modern Convenience: The rise of Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup. Sidebar: America’s Own Cookware: how the American casserole dish came to be. Sidebar: Our Favorite Casserole Cookbooks: 10 books of recipes, dating from 1912 to 2003. By Amy McDaniel In the Saveur Kitchen: Swiss Christmas cookies, by Nick Malgieri; what’s really in Worcestershire sauce, by Lily Binns; an easier approach to gratin, by Todd Coleman; extras found in vintage cookbooks, by Todd Coleman; what makes a ham a ham, by Liz Pearson; Southern mom fails at biscuits, by Amy McDaniel Recipes: Spitzbuebe (Swiss raspberry preserve–filled sandwich cookies) Potato Gratin Corned Ham Moment: Dinner in the Sky—eating at a table suspended over a freeway in Brussels
  2. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, November 2006 First: New editor in chief James Oseland recalls learning to cook from a Taiwanese friend. Fare: Flour Powers: Japanese comic book Yakitate!! Japane follows the adventures of a super-baker. By Emily Kaiser Maine’s Buckwheat Treats: Acadian ployes are part pancake, part crepe, part flat bread. By Roger Doiron Recipe: Ployes with Cretons (buckwheat crepes with pork pate) Au Revoir, Escoffier: France’s new Le Fooding movement encourages experimentation. By Catherine Bolgar Agenda: Rueblimart, a carrot fest in Aurau, Switzerland, Nov. 1; Greenwood County Cattlemen’s Day Celebration in Eureka, Kans., Nov. 3-4; Wurstfest in New Braunfels, Tex., Nov. 3-12; Soil Association Organic Food Festival in Glasgow, Scotland, Nov. 4-5; Sweet Potato Festival in Vardeman, Miss., Nov. 4-11; La Foire aux Harengs de Lieurey herring festival in Lieurey, France, Nov. 11; Nils Gustaf Dalen, inventor of the cast-iron stove, born Nov. 30, 1869; The Joy of Cooking first published Nov. 30, 1931 Book Review: Tamasin Day-Lewis reviews Dorie Greenspan’s Baking: From My Home to Yours, and finds it reliable precisely for the very homey recipes. Recipe: Thanksgiving Twofer Pie Sidebar Book: Matt and Ted Lee’s The Lee Bros. Southern Cookbook: Stories and Recipes for Southerners and Would-Be Southerners covers high and low dishes alike. The Saveur List: 10 Tabletop Goods, from Moroccan tea glasses to Chez Panisse dinnerware to Vagabond Vintage Furnishing napkins Kitchenwise: Interior designer Jenny Rogers and her partner crafted the perfect workspace in their 500-square-foot New York City studio. By Georgia Freedman Cellar: Night for Day Moulin-a-vent is an earthy, gutsy cru beaujolais. By John Winthrop Haeger Tasting notes: 12 moulin-a-vent wines, from Georges Duboeuf Domaine des Rosiers 2004 ($14; “earthy, herbaceous nose…black and red raspberries”) to Domaine de la Rochelle 2000 ($30; “raisined fruit and dried leaves…strong minerality”) Lives: Chocolate in the Rough On the African island of Principe, maverick chocolatier Claudio Corallo is developing a uniquie bean-to-bar operation. By G.Y. Dryansky Source: Tane Chan’s San Francisco Wok Shop (www.wokshop.com) has a wok for every chef. By Sarah DiGregorio Classic: Cream of New York Cheesecake is the Big Apple’s other coveted slice Recipe: Lindy’s Cheesecake Shanghai Surprise Chef Jereme Leung is redefining his adopted city’s cuisine one dish at a time. By Grace Young Recipes: Bingzhen Huangjiu Ji (chilled drunken chicken with rice wine granita) Xunlong Yuzi Yanxun Dan (tea-smoked eggs with caviar) Hushi Suanla Geng (Shanghai-style hot and sour soup) Foldout Guide: The Saveur Tour of Shanghai, with reviews of a dozen places to eat The Guide: Where to stay and eat in Shanghai The Centerpiece The turkeys raised on a Colorado farm didn’t just taste good; they offered a hard-won lesson in humility. By Rita Williams Recipes: Brined and Roasted Turkey Collard Greens with Smoked Turkey Wings Turkey Tetrazzini Panes con Pavo (Salvadorn turkey sandwich) Sidebar: A Guide to Buying Turkey: conventional, natural, heritage Brunch on the Bayou At one of Louisiana’s last remaining sugarcane farms, a family cook prepares a hearty feast to celebrate the harvest. By Victoria Abbott Riccardi Recipes: Eggs Hussards (poached eggs with tasso and hollandaise sauce) Mirliton (chayote) Casserole Broiled Grapefruit Couchon d’Oreille (“pigs’ ears”—fried dough with caramel and pecans) Sausages and Gravy with Stone-Ground Grits Sidebar: The Art of Making Sugar, from raw cane to crystals Old-School Madrid The Spanish capital’s classic dishes are worth seeking out—and savoring. By Anya von Bremzen Recipes: Gambas al Ajillo (sizzling shrimp with garlic and parsley) Albondigas en Salsa (tapas-style meatballs) Croquetas de Jamon con Gambas (ham and shrimp croquettes) Cocido Madrileño de Casa Lhardy (Madrid-style boiled dinner) Flan (creamy caramel custard) Sidebar: Perfect Bites: where to get tapas in Madrid The Guide: where to stay and eat in Madrid Comng Home to Café Annie After 25 years, a Houston institution beckons with flavors that are as thrilling as ever. By Margo True Recipes: Black Bean Nachos with Red Chile Beef Rabbit Enchiladas with Red Mole Coffee-Crusted Beef Tenderloin In the Saveur Kitchen: Rice Wine 101—how to buy the good stuff, by Todd Coleman; how to carve a turkey; how to poach an egg, by Todd Coleman; true-life tales of turkeys in trouble—an interview with a Butterball hot-line tender, by Liz Pearson; the Neiman Marcus cookie and other sweet apocrypha, by Georgia Freedman; Kate Fox’s grandmother’s applesauce Recipes: Neiman Marcus Cookies Jean Fox’s Appelsaes In the Saveur Library: Birds of a Feather: Saving Rare Turkeys from Extinction, by Carolyn J. Christman and Robert O. Hawes, is obscure but much needed. Moment: A cat eating corn on the cob
  3. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, October 2006 First: Todd Coleman relates how his Butt Rub got mistaken for bomb materials on the flight back from Florida. Fare: A Backpacker's Banquet: Andy Isaacson explains how he rolled peanut butter, bananas and sticky rice into the "falang roll" of Laos Recipe: Falang Roll (foreigner roll) Truculent but Tender: Paul Adams describes eating an unfriendly llama. G.I. Grub: Todd Coleman admits he wanted to be a military chef, and reviews How to Feed an Army: Recipes and Lore from the Front Lines, by J.G. Lewin and P.J. Huff. Recipe: Shit on a Shingle (creamed chipped beef on toast) What Would James Bond Think? Egregious wine and booze blunders in popular spy novels. Agenda: California Avocado Festival in Carpinteria, Calif., Oct. 6-8; Dan Siruna—"day of the fish" in Budva, Montenegro, Oct. 7; Oktoberfest started Oct. 12, 1810, in Munich; Festivals Acadiens in Lafayatte, La., Oct. 13-15; Turkey Testicle Festival in Byron, Ill., Oct. 14; Doburoku Matsuri (sake festival) in Shirakwago, Japan, Oct. 14-19; Foire de la Chataigne (chestnut fest) in Mourjou, France, Oct. 21-22; Joe Carcione, radio promoter of "vedja-tobbles", born Oct. 31, 1914 One Good Bottle: Oakville Ranch Napa Valley Field Blend 2004 ($30) is "juicy, fruity, vaguely Italian-tasting" Book Review: Kenneth Wapner reviews Hiroko Shimbo’s The Sushi Experience—it's very thorough and packed with useful tips. The Saveur List: 5 Food Towns: markets and restaurants in Apalichola, Fla., Ashland, Ore., Burlington, Vt., Chapel Hill, N.C., and Lawrence, Kan. Kitchenwise: Knot's Landing star John Pleshette also happens to be a practiced cook. His super-organized kitchen has a custom maple center table, lots of pull-out drawers, custom shelves for wine and books, and a corner just for baking. Cellar: Mistress of the Dark Powerful aglianico softens into elegance with age. By John Winthrop Haeger Tasting notes: 12 aglianico-based wines from Campania and Basilicata, from Feudi di San Gregorio Irpinia Rubrato 2003 ($19; "a lean, inky integration of black cherry and mineral flavors") to De Conciliis Paestum Zero 2003 ($100; "incense, bay laurel, dates…on the nose; then ripe, rich, sweet, velvety…on the midpalate"). Essay: Dilbert's Kitchen: Colman Andrews laments the damage vituperative reality-chef Gordon Ramsay has done to the image of fine cooking. Memories: Honeymoon in Yerevan: Litty Matthew recalls her first, anxious meal with her new Armenian in-laws. Recipe: Rose Napoleons Source: Gourmet Mushrooms is one of the largest exotic mushroom producers in the U.S.. By Kathleen Brennan Classic: Vietnamese Fire: Spicy noodle soup is an invigorating brow wiper. By Andrea Nguyen Recipe: Bun Bo Hue (Hue-style spicy beef and rice noodle soup Wine for the Family In California's wine country, the Robledos come together each weekend for their mother's find Mexican cooking—and to honor and strengthen a dream. By Margo True Recipes: Posole Rojo (pork and hominy stew) Calabaza y Camote (candied squash and sweet potatoes) Three-Chile Salsa Grilled Tomato Salsa Tostadas de Ceviche de Camaron y Jaiba (shrimp and crab ceviche on fried tortillas) Chiles Rellenos (poblano chiles stuffed with beef and cheese) Guisada de Guilota (quail braised in tomatillo-chile sauce) Tasting Notes: 9 wines from the Robledo Family Winery and Mi Sueno Winery. Sidebar: The Rise of the Vineyard Worker: immigration issues in the California wine industrie Kekfrankos from a Former Kulak Ferenc Takler survived communism to produce glorious Hungarian wines. By Roger Morris Recipes: Ozporkolt (venison goulash) Sarkozi Tejfeles Bujtok (sour cream rolls) Bableves (bean soup with "pinched" pasta) Szolos Retes Bor Szoszban (grape-filled strudel with white wine sauce) Tasting Notes: 4 Takler wines Sidebar: The Takler Table: staples include chicken paprikash and a simple salad with a dressing of white wine vinegar and honey. By Camas Davis Sidebar: Pal's Legacy: Pal Debreczeni was one of Hungary's best winegrowers; his wife carries on. Prickly Sweet With their sublime balance of succulent and sour, pineapples are the most irresistible of tropical fruits. By Kelly Alexander Recipes: Rojak (pineapple and jicama salad) Tepache (Mexican-style fermented pineapple drink) Manchamanteles de Cerdo y Pollo (mole with chicken, pork, and pineapple) Pineapple Upside-Down Cake Sweet and Sour Pork Seared Foie Gras with Caramelized Pineapple Sidebar: How to Cut Up a Pineapple Sidebar: A User's Guide: varieties and how to pick a ripe one Serious Eating in the Sudtirol A reunion across the generations in German-speaking Italy is fueled by dumplings, gnocchi, cured pork, and sauerkraut. By George Semler Recipes: Spinatnocken und Tofennocken (spinach and cheese gnocchi) Speckknodelsuppe (Tyrolean bacon-dumpling soup) Wildschwein in Rotwein Sosse mit Polenta (wild boar and soft polenta with wine sauce) Kartoffelteigtaschen mit Pfifferlingen (potato ravioli with chanterelle mushrooms) Tiroler Schlachtplatte (Tyrolean butcher's platter) Fritelle di Mele alla Cannella con Composta di Mirtilli rossi (cinnamon apple fritters with cranberry compote) The Guide: Where to stay and eat in Sudtirol In the Saveur Kitchen: variations on shit on a shingle, by Liz Pearson; another pineapple treat, by Sophie von Haselberg; pork hocks are cross-sections of a hog's leg, by Todd Coleman Recipe: Apcray on Apcray (creamed tuna on toast) Oven-Dried Spicy Pineapple Snacks Moment: A Multan, Pakistan, vendor stacks cakes on the first night of Ramadan
  4. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, September 2006 First: Colman Andrews explains why it took so long for the mag to cover Turkey: just trying to get it right. Notably, he realizes it's a country to do numerous articles on, like France, Italy, and China. Fare: Small and Savory: The Östermalms food hall in Stockholm reveals many wonders. By Kelly Alexander Boys in the Kitchen: Tim Allis recounts a gay men's cooking class: it can bring partners together. Good Nose: Training a dog to sniff out TCA, the contaminant that causes corking. By Emily Kaiser That Tart: The frequently requested recipe from May 2006's New Zealand story. Recipe: Portuguese Custard Tarts From the Spice Islands: Saveur executive editor James Oseland's new book is Cradle of Flavor: Home Cooking from the Spice Islands of Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. By Colman Andrews Recipe: Chicken Satay Not That Kind of Acid: Summery blackberry syrup is worth the trouble. By Shane Mitchell Recipe: Blackberry Acid Agenda: La Fete de L'ail Rose in Lautrec, France, Aug. 4; Alfestival in Ahus, Sweden, celebrates silver eels Aug. 5; Huckleberry Festival in Swan Lake, Mont., Aug. 12; Lewis and Clark Festival in Yankton, S. Dak., celebrates buffalo Aug. 26-27; Marion Popcorn Festival in Marion, Ohio, Sept. 7-9; Pizzafest in Naples, Italy, Sept. 7-17; hand-cranked ice cream maker patent issued Sept. 9, 1843; John "Johnny Appleseed" Chapman born Sept. 26, 1774 One Good Bottle: Albert Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes 2004 ($19) is "delicious…a little oily and just acidic enough." Book Review: Shane Mitchell reviews Bill Buford’s Heat: An Amateur's Adventures as Kitchen Slave, Line Cook, Pasta-Maker, and Apprentice to a Dante-Quoting Butcher in Tuscany and sees it as a romance about big men with big appetites, not really a study of Italian food. Kitchenwise: Manhattan restaurateur Michael Bonadies redesigned his small kitchen in New Jersey for maximum efficiency: drawers in the kick space, an easy-to-reach garbage can, and lots of lighting. Cellar: Cabernet Mountain After phylloxera, Prohibition, and neglect, one of the Napa Valley's least accessible wine areas is now thriving. By Roger Morris Tasting notes: 12 wines from the Spring Mountain regions, from Terra Valentine Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 ($35, "lively fragrances…deep and rich") to Juslyn Vineyards Proprietary Red 2002 ($90, a blend with "a lovely floral oak nose, very ripe blackberry fruit, and firm tannins"). Reporter: The Importance of Corn: An innovative gardening program in northern Arizona is helping the Navajo rediscover the foods that have nourished them. By Stephanie Woodard Memories: Are You Being Served? Indrani Sen recalls the surprising relationship with the servants in her grandmother's kitchen in India. Recipe: Khichuri (dal, rice, and vegetable porridge) Source: Scottish Gourmet imports delicately sweet Scottish langoustines. By Kathleen Brennan Classic: Crisp Charisma: Sicilian "tubes" are America's favorite Italian pastry. By Eugenia Bone Recipe: Cannoli Pacific Treasure Vancouver Island is emerging as the West Coast's new epicurean mecca. By Max Alexander Recipes: Whole Wheat Crostini with Creamed Chanterelles Grilled Oysters Wrapped in Alaria Seaweed Salmon Glazed with Rosemary- and Lemon-Infused Honey Sooke Harbour House Duck with Duck Jus and Green Beans Polenta Fries with Spicy Garlic Dipping Sauce Water Buffalo Yogurt Panna Cotta with Raspberry Puree Sidebar: Island Wines: Blue Grouse 2003 (pinot gris), Venturi-Schulze 2002 Indigo (schonburger), plus some pinot noirs and viogniers. The Guide: Where to stay and eat and what to do on Vancouver Island A Tale of Tofu In Zhangguying, Chicna, this versatile ingredient is the soul of local cooking. By Fuchsia Dunlop Recipes: Xiang Gan Zi Chao La Rou (stir-fried smoky bacon with smoked tofu) Jia Chang Dou Fu (Hunanese home-style tofu) Fu Ru Jiao Si Chao Tan Cai (water spinach with garlic and fermented tofu) Zhangguying You Dou Fu (Zhangguying-style braised fried tofu) Fu Zhu Pai Gu Tang (spareribs and dried tofu stick soup) Sidebar: A Guide to Chinese Tofu: dried tofu sticks (fu zhu), firm tofu (dou fu), smoked (la dou fu, la gan zi), flavored (lu dou fu, dou fu gan), fermented (mei dou fu, dou fu ru), silken (sui dou fu), and deep-fried (you dou fu, dou pao) Seaweed and Cheese: Maja Binder and Olivier Beaujouon forage for seaweed and handcraft cheese. Recipe: Carrageen Lemon Pots The Turkish Teacher In the ancient city of Konya, Nevin Halici brings together the rich and spiritual foods of her native land. By Margo True Recipes: Gül Yaprakli Marul Salatasi (rose petal salad with parsley and mint) Tava Kebapli Bulgur Pilavi (panfried lamb kebabs with bulgur pilav) Tutmac Corbasi (lamb and yogurt soup) Kahve (Turkish coffee) Kösk Kebabi (lamb kebabs with eggplant) Badem Helvasi (almond halvah) Sidebar: Home Cooking in a Konya Restaurant: Kösk Konya Mutfagi (Konya Pavilion Kitchen) The Guide: where to stay and eat and what to do in Konya Friday Night Fish Fry Milwaukee's weekly food gatherings are a delicious, down-home tradition. By Daphne Beal Recipes: Beer-Battered Haddock Brandy Old-Fashioned German Coleslaw German Potato Pancakes Carrot Cake The Guide: Where to stay and eat in Milwaukee In the Saveur Kitchen: The beauty and variety of Turkish breakfasts, by Margo True; frying dried spices in oil (tarka) is the essence of Indian food, by Todd Coleman; the evolution of the maraschino cherry, by Liz Pearson Recipe: Mirtoga (browned-flour scrambled eggs) Moment: Chicago White Sox fan with one of those double-beer-can-holder hats.
  5. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, June/July 2006 First: Colman Andrews recounts how the Saveur staff could turn on a dime to get the story about Philippe Rochat into the issue at the last minute. Fare: Rule, Brittania!: Brittania & Co., a timeless Irani lunch cafe, has served Parsi food to Mumbai workers since 1923. By Melanie Mize Renzulli Recipe: Sali Chicken (chicken stew with potato sticks) Curious Cutlery: A new exhibition of American tableware at the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum goes way beyond the knife and fork. By Darra Goldstein Dueling Interns: Saveur imagines its own cutthroat reality TV show, in which its interns must not be vegetarians, and must know how to pronounce the name of the magazine. Nothing Personal, Trigger: Amy Standen reports on the use of horsemeat in Slovenia. Camelot’s Napery: Napkins with a Twist: Fabulous Folds with Flair for Every Occasion shows how to set the table a la Jackie Kennedy. Agenda: Okmulgee Pecan Festival, in Okla., June 1-3; Rosy Rhubarb Festival in Shedden, Ont., June 9-11; Midsommar Festival in Stromsburg, “the Swede capital of Nebraska,” June 16-18; World Stinging Nettle Eating Championships in Marshwood Vale, England, June 17; 100th anniversary of the Food and Drugs Act, June 30; Percy Spencer, inventor of the microwave, born July 19, 1894; Le Championnat du Monde de Cracher de Noyaux de Pruneaux, a prune-pit-spitting contest in Sainte Livrade-sur-Lot, France, July 29; Oxnard Salsa Festival, July 29–30; One Good Bottle: Domaine Stephane Aladame Montagny Les Coeres 2003 ($25): “an unusual spicy nose” Book Review: Warren Shultz reviews two books on the politics of food: Jay Weinstein’s The Ethical Gourmet is relatively informative and balanced. Fields of Plenty: A Farmer’s Journey in Search of Real Food and the People Who Grow It, by Michael Ableman, is more black-and-white, but inspirational. Recipe: Multigrain Buttermilk Waffles with Poppy Seeds Kitchenwise: Kitchen designer Joanne Hudson’s own space has a 15-foot-long island. Traffic flow is maintained with ample space between cooking and cleanup areas, and a separate “drink station.” By Kathleen Brennan Cellar: White Rock Chenin blanc, formerly known as steen in South Africa, might turn out to be that country’s new star wine. By Michael Steinberger Tasting notes: 12 chenin blancs from South Africa, from Ken Forrester Petit Chenin 2005 ($10; “restrained, elegant nose....plush on the palate”) to De Trafford Straw Wine 2003 ($45/375ml; “honeysuckle dominates the nose....with terrific cirus, apricot and butterscotch flavors”) Essay: The Joy of Salad Kelly Alexander expounds on the complexities of summer salads. Reporter: Deeper into Sherbet In a story that smacks more of Cook’s Illustrated, Elmer R. Grossman praises sherbet and develops his own ideal recipe. Recipe: Mango Sherbet Drink: Chardonnay Royalty From modest beginnings came “America’s greatest white wine estate.” By John Winthrop Haeger Source: Chris Hogue, of Bethesda, Md., makes the ultimate crab cakes. Order from www.chrismarketplace.com. By Kathleen Brennan Classic: Cool Potatos French-sounding vichysoisse is as American as apple pie. By Todd Coleman Recipe: Vichysoisse (creamy chilled potato and leek soup) Scottish Summer Berries A childhood spent on farms near Dundee and in Mum’s kitchen left a London chef with a taste for fruit tarts, shortcakes, and other seasonal delights. By Jeremy Lee Recipes: Raspberry Shortcakes Strawberry and Hazelnut Meringue Cake Berry Jelly Raspberry Brulee Raspberry Trifle Swiss Hit In a once legendary restaurant near Lausanne, Philippe Rochat has become quite possibly the greatest chef you’ve never heard of. By Colman Andrews Recipes: Grosses Asperges Vertes a l’Oscietre (asparagus with osetra caviar) Tarte Fine Croustillante de Morilles aux Fevettes (morel tarts with baby fava beans) Hatelet de Ris de Veau Roti au Pimento del Piquillos (roasted sweetbreads on a skewer with piquillo pepper sauce) Rosace de Fraises (strawberry “rose”) Sidebar: Your Three-Star Kitchen: Why is it useful to print such ridiculously complicated recipes? So home cooks can steal ideas and flavors. Nutmeg Islands Indionesia’s tiny Banda archipelago is home to one of the world’s most revered spices—and one of its most lavishly seasoned cuisines. By James Oseland Recipes: Kare Ikan (fish curry with potatoes) Nasi Kuning (festive yellow rice) Teh Halia (spice ginger–palm sugar drink) Spekkuk Bumbu (Indonesian spice cake) Sasatay (Banda-style tuna falafel) Ikan Bumbu Rujak (spice-braised tuna) Kacang Panjang Kecap (long beans with sweet soy sauce) Sidebar: The Spice Islands Pantry: ten essentials, from tirassi (dried shrimp paste) to pala (nutmeg) Sidebar: Banda’s Amazing Spice: all about nutmeg The Guide: where to stay in the Banda Islands The Sacred Feast Food and music feed the soul at this annual celebration in rural Alabama. By Kathryn Eastburn Recipes: Fresh Peach Ice Cream Pulled Pork Barbecue Poor Man’s Caviar Sweet Potato Cobbler Sandy’s Baked Beans Refrigerator Rolls Fruit Punch In the Saveur Kitchen: take fried shallots out of oil a bit sooner than you think; how to beat egg whites perfectly; all about citric acid—which can even be used to make “lemonade” Recipes: Bawang Gorneg (fried shallots) In the Saveur Library: Tropical Herbs & Spices, by Wendy Hutton, is an excellent guide to exotic flavors. Moment: American bicyclists in the Tour de France framed by grapes.
  6. When all else fails, blame it on the Yucatecans. That would be my guess, what with the hard-cooked egg on top. And the cream seems somehow to fit in with other Euro-influenced stuff. On the other hand, it's a recipe from 1964, so who the hell knows what passed for "Mexican" in those days! Just look at "Chinese" from the 60s...
  7. zora

    Tortas?

    In the Yucatan, I think the most common torta is grilled chicken, with lots of avocado and _tons_ of mayonnaise. I swear, the US and Mexico did a condiment swap a while back--there's definitely more mayo than salsa consumed in the Yucatan. (Not that I'm complaining! I love the stuff.) Sometimes tomato, hardly ever beans. And the bread is the bolillo, with some of the soft part removed. And it's pretty much never toasted. Sounds dull compared to some of the others described, but it's really delicious. I find the tortas I get here in my nabe in NYC are ginormous compared to the Yucatecan ones. Don't know if that's regional (guys here are from Puebla), or the everything's-bigger-in-America effect. The tacos are overstuffed too.
  8. Am I too late? Have you gone? Merida isn't "big city"-feeling at all--you would never guess a million people live there. The center is very compact and tidy, and you can wander around easily--no street hassle. In Campeche, there are two exceptionally delicious places to eat: one is called La Pigua (though when I was there last, it was being remodeled, and everything had moved next door to a place called Sir Francis Drink...tee hee). It's just north of the center, outside the old walls--head up C/8. Excellent seafood. Very popular. The other awesome place, much simpler and cheaper, is La Parroquia, just off the plaza on C/55--open 24hrs, big airy diner feel. All tasty. In Merida, see above (El Marlin Azul), and also go to Parque Santiago at night for snacks--a little bit west of the center, at C/70. There are a couple of snack joints open for panuchos and salbutes. In Cancun, go to Parque de las Palapas downtown and just snack a lot there. Heck, even the taco carts in front of the bus station are good. And there's a very cute lunch place called La Lomita in Isla Mujeres, and a couple good ceviche places on the beach right next to the ferry dock.
  9. zora

    The Michelada

    Indeed, that's what's in it. Mostly lime juice, then a couple dashes of W'shire and Tabasco (or similar) to taste. Lots of salt on the rim, and ice. Maybe I'm a wuss, but I prefer the plain old chelada--just the lime and salt. Or maybe it's just that you can drink more of those. The michelada always feels a bit like an appetizer, rather than a drink. edited to add: This is in the Yucatan, I should specify. And come to think of it, I've seen Maggi used also.
  10. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, May 2006 First: James Oseland loves lemons, especially the Meyers. Fare: Corn Tapas, Anyone? Lisa Abend reports on Spaniards’, especially Asturians’, adoption of corn in cuisine. Act I: Cue Fork: The Grid Iron Theatre Company does food-based productions. By Evan Rail Recipe: Revuelto de Cebolla y Cabrales Sobre Tortos Crujiente de Maiz (corn cakes with eggs scrambled with onions and cabrales) Jersey Pride: Trenton’s hometown hero is hickory-smoked “pork roll” sausage. By Rick Nichols Funky Fish: Sushi’s ancestor, funa-zushi, is a fermented delicacy. By Hiroko Shimbo Pass the Shredded Wheat Pilaf, Please: Breakfast cereal recipes collected in The Breakfast Cereal Gourmet, by David Hoffman. By Kate Fox Recipe: Roasted Poblano Meat Loaf Agenda: Asparagus Festival in Schwetzingen, Germany, on May 6; Festival of San Isidro May 10–20 in Madrid; Seattle Cheese Festivel May 13–14; Hadong Mountain Dew Tea Festival in Korea, May 18–21; Mike’s Festival, celebrating a headless chicken, in Fruita, Colo., May 19–20; anniversary of H.M.S. Salisbury scurvy test, May 20, 1747; Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit born May 24, 1686, in Gdansk; Kodiak Crab Festival May 25–29 in Alaska One Good Bottle: Shenandoah Vineyards Rezerve Barbera 2003 ($24): “big, brawling and manly….” Book Review: Margo True reviews Mangoes & Curry Leaves: Culinary Travels Through the Great Subcontinent, by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid, and finds it engagingly written and informative, with adventurous recipes, if occasionally confusing in its use of photos and first-person narrative. Recipe: Shallot Sambhar The Saveur List: 7 Doughnut Shops. By John T. Edge Kitchenwise: The Simple Life: Deborah Madison’s tiny kitchen in Galisteo, N.M., is brightly colored and open to the seating area. By Kathleen Brennan Cellar: Out of the Damp Albariño, from lush, green Galicia, is a savory, acidic and sometimes very serious wine. By John Winthrop Haeger Tasting notes: 12 albariños/alvarinhos from Spain, Portugal and California, from Condes de Albarei 2004 ($15; “intense, soft, polished, persistently peachy”) to Havens Carneros Napa Valley Albariño 2005 ($24; “very tight, intense, masculine and mineral rich, with a dry, grippy finish”). Source: Come and Take It is a classic Lone Star cocktail mix. By Kathleen Brennan Reporter: A Corsican Passion: An annual competition honors the French island’s traditional cheese makers. By Marie-Pascale Lescot Classic: Mediterranean Roll: Dolmades are a Greek taverna standby. By Diane Kochilas Recipe: Dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with rice and raisins) North Island Bounty: The Matakana farmers’ market, in New Zealand’s northern reaches, is a treasury of fresh, flavorful foodstuffs—and a reminder to locals of just how lucky they are. By Caroline Campion Recipes: Macadamia-Crusted Lamb with Honeygar Reduction Green Bean and Radish Salad Muesli Cockle Fritters with Aioli Blueberry Brioche Zucchini Tart with Feta Sidebar: Kiwi Queen Bee: BeesOnline is a resto, shop and honey production center in Waimauku The Guide: Where to stay and eat and what to do in Matakana Land of Lemons: The citrus groves of Italy’s Sorrento Peninsula produce an intensely aromatic fruit that’s at the heart of many of the region’s favorite foods. By Lorraine Alexander Recipes: Insalata di Limoni e Buccia di Arancia (lemon salad with orange zest) Pollo al Limone (grilled chicken with lemon leaves) Limoncello (lemon liqueur) Risotto al Limone (lemon risotto) Concerto di Sapori e Profumi al Limone (lemon custard with dried lemon slices and lemon fritters) Mozzarella al Limone (mozzarella grilled with lemon leaves) Sidebar: Where to stay and eat and what to do in the Sorrento Peninsula and Capri Pork Chops in Paradise: Honolulu’s Side Street Inn plays host to some of Oahu’s greatest chefs—and some of its best meals. By Shane Mitchell Recipes: Side Mui (cocktail) Lilikoi Baby Back Ribs Fried Rice Furikake-Crusted Ahi with Spicy Mustard Drizzle Macaroni Salad Panfried Pork Chops Pocho Clams Mackerel Punts and Pilchards: Fishing is a way of life in the village port of Newlyn, on Cornwall’s rocky coast. By Megan Wetherall Recipes: Fish Cakes Crab Sandwiches Saffron Buns Cornish Pasties Fish Pie The Guide: Where to stay and eat and what to do in Newlyn In the Saveur Kitchen: versatile NZ corn relish goes in toast; all about lemon leaves; li hing mui is ground from dried plum flavored with salt, licorice and saccharine Recipe: Corn Relish Moment: cowboy extras, and Iron Eyes Cody, take a lunch break at the Universal Studios commissary
  11. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, April 2006 First: James Oseland praises old-school French restaurants, where he learned to eat like a grown-up. Fare: Campus Chow: Food carts near college campuses serve everything from bulgogi to “poor man’s pizza.” By JJ Goode Spiny Wonder: Prickly-pear paddles are essential to Mexican cuisine, and they’re not impossible to prepare at home. By Jennifer Acosta Scott Recipe: Nopales Salad with Jalapeño Dressing Googledy-Gook: Colman Andrews feeds foreign recipes through the insta-translator. Hilarity ensues. Pacific Paella: A bizarre restaurant in Tonga conjures Spain, sort of. By Belle Caseres Cholesterol Special: how to make Uncle John’s easter pizza rustica. By Marc Vassallo Recipe: Pizza Rustica Agenda: Lamb Cook-Off in Vail, Colo, April 5; National Grits Festival in Warwick, Ga., April 8; Viernes Santo / Good Friday in Cuzco, Peru, April 14; anniversary of the Dagwood Sandwich, April 16, 1936; Sugar Festival in Clewiston, Fla., April 22; SAgra del Carciofo Romanesco, roman artichoke fest in Ladispoli, Italy, April 21–23; Justin “I gar-on-tee” Wilson born April 24, 1914; La Fete de la Coquille St-Jacques, St-Quay-Portrieux, France April 29–30 One Good Bottle: Ahcaval Ferrer Quimera 2003 ($38), a malbec blend that’s “luscious with opulently rounded fruit” Book Review: Kelly Alexander reviews the new edition of Paula Wolfert’s The Jewish Kitchen, by Clarissa Hyman and Peter Cassidy: a good effort at a near-impossible task, with some imprecision and odd shifts in tone. Buy it for the stories as much as for the recipes. On a side note: Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South, by Cohen Ferris, is an excellent study. Recipe: Jennifer Hyman’s Beet Jam Kitchenwise: Fiona and Gordon Hamersley redid their kitchen after 11 years: two sinks, all utensils hung on S-hooks, and soapstone counters. By Kathleen Brennan Cellar: Swashbuckler Madiran is the dark, spicy, tannic expression of the French southwest. By John Winthrop Haeger Tasting notes: 10 madirans from France, plus two tannat-based bottles, one from Uruguay and one from California: Chateau de Perron 2001 ($13) is “fruit-sweet on the palate, with a blackberry and graphite core,” while Chateau Montus Cuvée Prestige 2002 ($60) has “nutty highlights, leading to bright grape-cherry flavors with hints of citrus peel” Memories: Jean Freas reminisces about her life with sculptor David Smith, who always carried a head of garlic in his breast pocket, and the remarkable meals he used to cook for her. Drink: Campbeltown Original In Scotland’s “other” whisky region, Springbank does everything its own way. By Colman Andrews Source: Destino alfajores recreate the dulce de leche richness of this South American classic. Order from Gump’s San Francisco. By Kathleen Brennan Classic: Wings of Desire: Spicy and addictive, Buffalo wings are serious business in their hometown. By Denise Mickelsen Recipe: Buffalo Wings The Flavors of Home At the trattorias of Florence, locals and visitors alike eat simply, heartily, and extremely well. By Lori Zimring de Mori Recipes: Arista di Maiale (roasted herb-stuffed pork loin) Fagioli Sgranati (white beans with sage) Piselli Freschi (fresh peas with prosciutto) Pappa al Pomodoro (bread and tomato soup) Insalata di Trippa (cold tripe salad) Pappardelle all’Anatra (broad noodles with duck sauce) Fritto Misto di Coniglio e Verdure (fried rabbit and vegetables) The Guide: where to stay and eat and what to do in Florence The World of Hummus From cafes in Jericho to suburban party platters, the alchemic mixture of chickpeas, lemon juice, sesame paste, and garlic is a savory staple. By Alia Yunis Recipes: Hummus bi Tahini (hummus with sesame paste) Hummus ma Lahma (hummus with ground beef) Black Bean Hummus Masbaha (hummus with whole chickpeas) Vive le Restaurant Manhattan’s Le Veau d’Or is an unapologetic reminder of the day when fine dining meant wine sauces and white gloves. By James Villas Recipes: Poussins en Cocotte “Bonne Femme” (poussins with bacon and mushroom sauce) Celeri Remouldade (celeriac salad) Escalopines de Veau (veal scallops with lemon-parsley sauce) Tripes a la Mode de Caen (stewed tripe with calvados) Oeufs a la Neige (floating island) Sidebar: Keepers of the Flame: some other throwback French restaurants in NYC. By Sarah DiGregorio The End of Smorrebrod? The traditional Danish feast of “buttered bread” sandwiches—which are in fac hearty, varied knife-and-fork extravaganzas—is an endangered culinary tradition. By Regina Schrambling [whose knack for the negative is still strong] Recipes: Roget al Smorrebrod (smoked eel smorrebrod) Sommer Kartoffel Smorrebrod (summer potato smorrebrod) Rejer og Aeg Smorrebrod (shrimp and egg smorrebrod) Princess Alexandra Smorrebrod (salmon and wasabi cream cheese smorrebrod) Gravad Helleflynder (fennel-cured halibut) Gravad Helleflynder Smorrebrod (fennel-cured halibut smorrebrod) Roastbeef Smorrebrod med Remoulade (roast beef smorrebrod with remoulade sauce) Ansjos Smorrebrod (anchovy smorrebrod) Th Guide: where to stay and eat and what to do in Copenhagen In the Saveur Kitchen: pickled turnips are a standard Middle Eastern side; homemade pita is easy; rabbit stock uses up the bits from fritto misto Recipes: Lifit (pickled turnips) Khubz ’aadi (pita bread) Rabbit Stock Moment: stilt-wearing street performers snack on the Ramblas in Barcelona
  12. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, March 2006 First: Colman Andrews says, well, duh, of course he’s part Irish. Fare: Move Over, Cheesecake: Cake Man Raven of Brooklyn makes a mean red-velvet cake. His customers, some famous, “don’t want no muffins.” By Jaime Joyce Recipe: Red Velvet Cake From Obscurity to Kansas State: Food writer Clementine Paddleford’s papers are ready to be examined at Kansas State University. By Kelly Alexander For Your Delectation: new culinary-themed cinema: Work the Line, perhaps? Or Fatback Mountain? Hmm, no byline on this one. Vincente Generoso: Cook, writer and character actor Vincente Schiavelli died of lung cancer the day after Christmas 2005. By Colman Andrews. Mad for Manti: Margo True loves the Turkish dumplings, and visits a manti sweatshop. Recipe: Manti (Turkish dumplings with yogurt sauce) Agenda: apple and grape harvest festival in Stanthorpe, Australia; 800-foot-long lunch table in Napier, NZ; Kona brewers fest, Hawaii; In Vino wine fest in Belgrade; Catfish fest in Washington, La.; Forrest Edward Mars born March 21, 1904; Oyster Olympics in Seattle; fugu arrived in the US, March 29, 1989 One Good Bottle: Louis M. Martini Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon reserve 2001 ($35): rich velvety texture and “the scent of a suede-lined leather cuff link box.” Book Review: Shane Mitchell reviews the new edition of Paula Wolfert’s The Cooking of Southwest France and loves it—it’s not for anyone look for anything quick or easy, though. A whole section is devoted to cassoulet. Recipe: Gateau de Cuisse de Poulette aux Pommes de Terre et aux Artichauts (chicken, potato and artichoke cake) The Saveur List: 10 chocolates, all American, including that fantastic Recchiuti business. By Sierra Burnett Kitchenwise: California transplants to the Hudson River Valley install a waist-high fireplace, inspired by The Magic of Fire, by William Rubel. Cellar: Lean Vintages The wines of the East Coast have…well, possibilities. By Michael Steinberger Tasting notes: 12 wines from Pa., Conn., R.I., N.J., and Mass., from Sakonnet Vineyards (R.I.) Vidal Blanc 2004 ($11; “lean and taut in the mouth….Quite nice.”) to Chaddsford Winery (Pa.) Merican 2001 ($40; unusual Bordeaux blend with “sweet tobacco…cherry, mint, and tree bark….A little too spicy…”) Source: Rising C Ranches delivers super-ripe, specialty citrus. By Kathleen Brennan Classic: Burnt OfferingL “Cajun” blackened redfish is a deliciously charred treat. By Pableaux Johnson Recipe: Blackened Redfish Ireland from Farm to Fork Salmon, lamb, and farmhouse cheese; innovative chefs; one of the world’s great cooking schools; delicate whiskey and hearty ale… If you’ve got an appetite, the Irish are ready for you. By Colman Andrews Recipes: Irish Stew Colcannon Lamb’s Liver with Whiskey and Cream Fried Cooleeney Cheese with Beet Salad Special sections: County Cork: Food Capital: Its population of individualistic food-loving artisan-entrepreneurs and chefs has made this big, rich southern Irish county a gastronomic mecca. Recipes: Nettle Soup Spinach, Red Onion, and Coolea Cheese Tartlets with Parsley-Walnut Pesto and Olive-Crushed Potatoes Corned Beef with Parsley Sauce, Champ, Mashed Carrots and Parsnips, and Broccoli Panfried Sole with Garlic Butter Seaweed and Cheese: Maja Binder and Olivier Beaujouon forage for seaweed and handcraft cheese. Recipe: Carrageen Lemon Pots Heart and Hearth: “Ballymaloe” is the magic word in Irish food today—the name of both Ireland’s most influential restaurant and its finest cooking school. Recipes: Doris Grant’s Brown Bread Hot Buttered Lobster Ireland’s Perfect Condiment: The incredible richness and special character of Irish butter. A Kid from the Country: One of Galway’s great culinary assets is chef turned writer Gerry Galvin, who has been called the father of Ireland’s traditional-cooking revival. Recipes: Mussel and Oyster Hot Pot Tipsy Puddings with Mulled Wine Sidebar: Reinventing the Butcher Shop: James McGeough does a “prosciutto” of lamb The Chef and His Material: At Chapter One, Ross Lewis turns the best Irish products into food both refined and homey Recipes: Cauliflower Soup with Potato Emulsion and Crozier Blue Cheese Rhubarb Financiers with Vanilla Ice Cream and Poached Rhubarb Turnip and Brown Bread Soup Sidebar: Taking Ireland Organic: a slow process, introduced by foreigners Sidebar: The Wine of the Country: stout and whiskey Sidebar: Otto Kunze of Otto’s Creative Catering is a farmer-restaurateur The Guide: where to stay and eat in Ireland Calypso, Sequins, and Spice Driven by rhythm and fed by roti, pelau, and curried pork, all of Trinidad turns out for Carnival. By Lucretia Bingham Recipes: Geera Pork (curried pork) Buss-Up-Shut (griddle-cooked flatbread) Goat Curry Chadon Benny Sauce (culantro sauce) Chicken Pelau Sidebar: Party Music: all about calypso The Guide: where to stay and eat and what to do in Trinidad In the Saveur Kitchen: the difference between colcannon and champ, and what to do with leftovers; easy home bread the Irish way; details on culantro (Eryngium foetidum), by Sarah Breckenridge; Trinidadian kucheela blows char away, by James Osland Recipe: Colcannon Cakes Pint-Glass Bread Mango Kucheela (shredded mango pickle) In the Saveur Library: Callaloo, Calypso & Carnival, by Dave DeWitt and Mary Jane Wilan, gives geography and history along with recipes; Myrtle Allen’s Cooking at Ballymaloe House, by Myrtle Allen (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2000), is loyal to Irish tradition. Moment: two women enjoy sandwiches while waiting under the hairdryers in 1965 South Carolina
  13. Don't miss ceviche at El Marlin Azul--it's on C 62 (I think)--if you're on the plaza facing north, go north on the street running out of the left side. It's only open till 4pm, and doesn't have much of a sign (look for a blue awning--long counter inside; next door north is also theirs, a little unmarked dining room). Freshest ceviche I had in the Yucatan, even better than places on the coast...go figure.
  14. I haven't taken classes there, but I have seen the place, and the chef seems great and enthusiastic. To my knowledge from researching travel guides, it's the only really organized cooking class you can get in the Yucatan anyway. (I think I heard about some more casual things in Playa del Carmen, but maybe that was a one-off deal, and some language schools in Merida will tack on a pretty impromptu cooking class if you ask.) If Yucatecan food is new to you, I'd imagine this would be a great experience.
  15. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, February 2006 The Saveur 100 First: Colman Andrews reports that Edible Ojai’s inclusion in the Saveur 100 two years ago inspired numerous spinoffs. Fare: The Fabulous Baker Boys: Four friends from Belgrade run Pain d’Avignon in Cape Cod. By Amy Wilensky Family Style: Shelley Pannill Stein praises family cookbooks, especially one she received from her sisters and mother as a wedding present. Recipe: Detering Ranch Pecans Sidebar: Making Books: Resources for designing your own family cookbook Don’t Bogart Those Zonkers, My Friend: Colman Andrews discovers the classic stoner snack is back on the shelves. What? No Big Gulp? Taiwan’s 7-Eleven stores dish up excellent hot lunches, even Chinese New Year feasts. By Rich Lang Agenda: Niagara icewine festival; Hershey Co. est. Jan. 15, 1894; Benjamin Franklin born Jan. 17—but what year?; Mendocino crab and wine days; Pies on Parade in Rockland, Me.; Pahimis coffee festival in the Philippines; black truffle fest in Norcia, Italy; Ybor City, Fla., celebrates Cuban heritage; One Good Bottle: Simsonig Chenin Blanc 2005 ($9), from Stellenbosch, is reminiscent of apricot nectar. Book Review: Diane Kochilas reviews three new books on Spanish cuisine: Tapas: A Taste of Spain in America, by Jose Andres, The Cuisines of Spain: Exploring Regional Home Cooking, by Teresa Barrenechea, and The New Spanish Table, by Anya von Bremzen. Andres’s book does a good job bringing restaurant cuisine home, while Barrenechea’s tome is a solid, almost scholarly reference. But von Bremzen’s best combines the two trends. Recipes: Gildas (Basque skewers, from von Bremzen) Flan (caramel custard, from Barrenechea) Butifarra amb Mongetes del Ganxet (Catalan pork sausage with white beans, from Andres) Cellar: Bierzo Rising Meet some of Spain’s best new red wines. By Roger Morris Tasting notes: 12 wines from the Bierzo region, from Pago de Valdoneje 2003 ($12; “bright cherry and hemp aromas…a brambly, brulee finish”) to Paixar 2002 ($87; “rich, chalky, and showing a cherry flavor with white pepper underneath”). Kitchenwise: Mexico in Manhattan: Zarela Martinez designed the floor plan of her kitchen to welcome guests but keep them from getting in the way. Bright colors and painted tiles set the tone. Memories: Viola, the Souffle! Dale M. Brown recalls working on the Time-Life Books Foods of the World series between 1968 and 1971. Recipe: Souffle au Grand Marnier Classic: Pillows of Bliss: New Mexican sopaipillas are irresistible. By Cheryl J. Foote Recipe: Sopaipillas (New Mexican beignets) The Saveur 100: favorite restaurants, food, drink, people, places, and things. French farm resto La Chassagnette gets the lead; other highlights include NZ pohutukawa honey, Istanbul’s Ciya resto, Ikea food, the book Hungry Planet, fallenfruit.org, and New Orleans. (What’s with those dorky “Fusion Fun” symbols?) Recipes: South Indian Squid Fry Beef Tenderloin Fried with Black Pepper Sauce (Singapore Cantonese–style) Goan Avocado Salad (from Floyd Cardoz at Tabla) Huevos “Hacienda de Puebla” (eggs with tomatoes, black beans, and poblanos, from Mexico City breakfast spot El Cardenal) Southern Chopped Salad (from Jim ‘n’ Nick’s Bar-B-Q in Birmingham) Cranberry Pudding Perde Pilavi (pilaf “veiled” in a pastry crust, from Ciya) Parmentier de Porc Confit aux Oignons (“cottage pie” of pork confit with onions, from Le Timbre in Paris) Ricotta Gnocchi with Spinach, Chanterelles, and Parmigiano-Reggiano (from Alex in the Wynn Las Vegas) Hoedeopbap (Korean-style raw fish with rice and vegetables) Fried Duck Eggs Cheese Popovers (from BLT Steak) Philly Cheesesteak Spring Roll (from the Four Seasons in Philadelphia) Gazdag Ember Batyul (Hungarian “rich man’s purses” filled with paprika chicken) Galletas de Encurtidos (olive tuiles, from El Bohio in La Mancha) Sawagani (fried Japanese freshwater hard-shell crabs) Fritada (Ecuadoran fried pork with traditional accompaniments) Du-Par’s Steak Pot Pie (from Du-Par’s in LA) Chocolate Pithiviers (from Roast Chicken and Other Stories, by Simon Hopkinson with Lindsey Bareham) In the Saveur Kitchen: versatile lotus root; best molds for flan; duck eggs. Recipe: Lotus Root Chips Moment: a ladies’ picnic lunch on the Baltic, with blinis and vodka
  16. I talked to my friend again, and she says maryameh is sage...does that sound right? I've never heard of sage having any particular qualities for women's health, though. I can see how it would make a good tea...
  17. Thanks, everyone! Someone else did email me to say he thought hindaba was chicory as well. I'll have to look into this mariamia thing. My friend said she was served black tea with mariamia in it by some Palestinian militia leader, and it was the best tea she'd ever tasted, so he went out to the yard and picked big bunches of it for her. Hot-cha-cha...
  18. winesonoma, your real-time reports are giving me little post-traumatic stress fits. Glad to hear you got some real produce, though, and good luck with the new joint.
  19. Here's the Mit'in Shiro recipe I described above. Presumably, you could just leave out the berbere to make the non-hot version? Or maybe leave out all the spices and just grind up the toasted peas? I tried to clarify the directions, but I didn't change the proportions, of course. This cookbook hasn't really been vetted for consistency... 1/2 c. split chickpeas 3 c. split peas 1/2 c. split lentils 1/2 c. split fava beans Roast these and set aside. 2 tbsp. garlic, chopped 2 tbsp. ginger, chopped 1 c. onions, chopped "Place...on a pan and toast it in a low heat until dry." Hmm. 1/3 c. rue seed (tena adam) 1 tbsp. fenugreek 1 tbsp. basil (besobila) [[unclear if this is seed or leaf]] 1 tbsp. cardamom 1 tbsp. coriander [[seeds, I guess?]] salt to taste Toast all these for about 2 minutes. Mix everything together with 1 c. berbere and pound to a fine powder. This mixture is then ready to make Yemitin Shiro We't: For 2 servings: 2 tbsp Mitin Shiro (above) --Mix with 1 c. water, stirring to remove lumps 2 shallots, chopped 2 tbsp. vegetable oil --Cook in a saucepan for 3 minutes. Add 2 c. water and bring to boil. Pour in shiro mixture, stirring continuously. Let simmer for 30 mins until thick and smooth. That sounds very weird--2 tbsp. of powdered peas dissolved in 3 c. of water? Hmm. Then there's the recipe for Yeshiro We't, which I'm transcribing word for word, because the instructions are open to interpretation... For 5 servings: 4 tbsp. powdered peas [[not spicy, I'm guessing]] 3 c. water 1/2 c. onion, chopped 1/2 c. vegetable oil salt to taste 1 tbsp. ginger, diced 1 tbsp. garlic, diced 2 tbsp. berbere 1 tbsp. key we't kemem [[a whole other recipe: 1/2 lb. ajwain seed (nech azmud), 1/2 lb. black cumin (tiqur azmud), 2 tbsp. dry ginger, 2 tbsp. dry garlic, 3 tbsp. cardamom...but I doubt you want a whole pound of the stuff]] --Cook onion until soft and brown, add water to prevent burning or sticking. --Add garlic, ginger, berbere, key we't kemem and oil, stirring constantly for 10 minutes at low temperature. --Add 3 c. of water and wait until boil. --In a small bowl, mix powdered peas with water until thick and smooth. --Simmer for about 40 minutes in a very low heat stirring occasionally. --Remove from heat let it stand. Refrigerate. Ay yi yi. The pic that accompanies is a very dark brown. By contrast, on the next page is the recipe for Yeshiro Alich'a We't, which is yellowish, and differs only in the last ingredient: 1/2 tbsp. alecha we't kemem, which is 1/2 lb. dry ginger, 1/2 lb. dry garlic, and 1/2 c. basil (leaves? seeds?). (For some reason, this recipe serves 4.) Sooo, clear as mud. I guess the moral of the story is you can use a mixture of lentils, peas, etc., and then decide which way you want to go with the spicing: intense or mild....
  20. Y'know, because _flavor_ can be so upsetting to the system. Sigh. On another note, it's also a bad sign when you start looking at branded, packaged food as a bonus--oh boy, Kozyshack pudding! At least I know that's sold on the open market in regular retail markets, and not created just for institutions. Sort of the same way as McDonald's becomes more appealing in airports, when it's one of the most reliable options...
  21. ONE grape?! That's tragic. Hang in there. Can some eGulleteers near you bring in some roast duck dinner or something? A couple of friends of mine have said they didn't mind hospital food so much, but were dismayed at how little of it there was, and asked to be put on double portions. I just couldn't bring myself to do it. I had a feeling that if I looked at _two_ blobs of scrambled-eggs-from-a-powder or two scoops of army-green spinach, I wouldn't be able to eat any of it at all. And Marlena, you've changed my travel plans forever. I'll have to start spending more time in France, just in case I get sick again...
  22. I have this cookbook "Taste of Ethiopia: The Other Good Food," which was recommended in a previous thread here on eGullet. I have yet to cook a thing out of it, but it looks pretty good in that it doesn't seem to dumb down ingredients, and some recipes are quite similar to those found in the Froog's "The Frugal Gourmet on Our Immigrant Ancestors," which I've used to turn out some very good dishes. Anyhoo, the "Yeshiro We't" recipe might be what you're looking for. But the interesting thing is that the first ingredient is "4 tbsp powdered peas." Which requires lots of flipping through the rest of the book to sort out what that is. So there's a recipe in the back for "Mit'in Shiro," or hot powdered peas. Flipping around more, this ingredient is called for in several other dishes that have the word "shiro" in the name. I don't want to type up the whole thing, because it's copyrighted, but the gist is this: 1) Roast dry chickpeas, split peas, split lentils and fava beans. 2) Cook garlic, ginger and onions and "toast it in a low heat until dry." Might need to flip around in the book more to sort out this technique... 3) Roast cardamom, fenugreek, coriander, rue seed (tena adam), besobila and salt. 4) Mix together with berbere (for which there's a separate recipe) and pound into a fine powder. Labor-intensive, but intriguing... and possibly more complicated than your local Ethiopian joint even goes for. Hmm. Now I see the book seems to be out of print. I suppose I could type up the recipe. But now I'm bound for bed. Will have to wait till tomorrow--sorry. But I hope this points in the right direction.
  23. zora

    Cooking Burns and Scars

    I still have a splotchy patch on my left thigh from when I was 3 years old and spilled hot bacon grease on myself from a tippy griddle. My mother still feels guilty that she was letting me cook then ("But you seemed so mature!"), but I'm glad I got in there early. It also marked me early on as a "burner" rather than a "cutter"--according to the theory of a chef I knew, who claimed that all cooks were prone to one or the other sort of injury. And whenever I burn myself good, my husband swoons. It's sad--when I don't cook regularly, all the hair on my forearms grows back...and then it smells fun-kee when I do finally get back over a big flame.
  24. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, December 2005 First: Margo True talks about the difficulty of learning techniques from TV, cookbooks, and magazines--nothing substitutes for the sure hand of a tutor. Fare: Ciao, Bue Grasso!: Alan Tardi visits Carru for the Fair of the Fat Ox and a serving of bollito misto. Secret Garden: The now-defunct Garden Cafeteria on NYC's Lower East Side was the haunt of Jewish journos. By Michelle Golden Tubular Titan: H. David Dalquist invented the bundt pan for the Minneapolis Hadassah. By Kelly Alexander Recipe: Lillian Bogas's Harvey Wallbanger Bundt Cake Agenda: Winter ale fest in Dovercourt, England; Pohutukawa Fest in NZ celebrates kiwi cuisine; wild game dinner in Graham, Tex.; Igls, Austria, does Krampuslaufen for good and bad boys and girls; Le Fave di San Nicola in Pollutri, Italy, thanks Saint Nicolas for saving the town from famine; Jim Harrison, author of The Raw and the Cooked, born Dec. 11, 1937; coffeehouse proclamation in London, Dec. 29, 1675; mochi-pounding gathering in Hawaii One Good Bottle: Bollinger Special Cuvee ($52) was cheap in the 80s, but still worth seeking out: "dry almost to the point of astringency...hint of warm brioche" Ubiquitous Sweets: Alisa Weinstein reports on the dazzling varieties of mithai in Pakistan. Book Review: Five gems from the holiday cookbook wave: Camas Davis reviews Simple Soirees, by Peggy Knickerbocker, full of seasonal menus for dinner parties, plus tips for executing. Vivian Jao reviews Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen, by Elizabeth Andoh, who learned from her Japanese mother-in-law. Margo True praises Suzanne Goin's Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Goin is "a girl obsessed with cooking." Recipes: A Collection for the Modern Cook, by Susan Spungen, sounds dull and finicky but is actually quite reliable and pleasurable, especially for entertaining; reviewed by Caroline Campion. Margo True likens May Bsisu's The Arab Table: Recipes & Culinary Traditions to learning from a chatty immigrant friend; Bsisu draws from all over the Middle East. The Saveur List: 12 olive oils from surprising places: Tunisia, Texas, Israel, New Zealand, Australia, etc. Cellar: White Star Blanc de blancs champagne is excellent and varied. By Michael Steinberger Tasting notes: 12 bottles, from Jean Milan Speciale NV ($47; "nutmeg, lime, flowers....a vigor bordering on exuberance") to Krug Clos du Mesnil 1992 ($586; "kaleidoscopic nose....Lush and creamy in the mouth....Distinctly nutty on the finish") Memories: Late-Night Chitlins with Momma Pig intestines brought Audrey Petty closer to her mother; they also signified Southern black identity in integrated Chicago. Recipe: Chitlins Lives: The Lord of Chateau Bel-Air In one of LA's toniest neighborhoods, a retired aerospace leader has become a full-time vigneron. By Colman Andrews Source: Hail, Grenache! Is it time to worship these wines openly, wonders James Stonehill. Join Grateful Palate's Grenache of the Month Club. Classic: Sour and Spice The fiery, vinegary Chinese soup makes everything nice Recipe: Suan La Tang (hot and sour soup) Caviar, Grandfather Frost, and Fireworks: On New Year's Eve in post-Communist Mosco, the food is abundant and delicious and the parties are raucously joyful. By Catherine Cheremeteff Jones Recipes: Yaitsa Farshirovanniye Ikroi (caviar-stuffed eggs) Salat Olivier (Russian-style salad) Zhulien (mushroom casserole) Seliodka pod Shuboi (herring "under a fur coat") Svinina v Kislo-Sladkom Souse (pork stew with dried apricots and prunes) Khvorost (Russian twig cookies) The Guide: where to stay and eat in Moscow The Mother of Mexican Cuisine: A culinary educator and pioneering author, Josefina Velazquez de Leon was the first person to popularize her country's regional foods. By Mauricio Velazquez de Leon Recipes: Sopa de Fideo (vermicelli soup) Albondigas en Chipotle (meatballs in chipotle sauce) Quesadillas Potosinas (San Luis Potosi–style quesadillas) Chiles en Vinagre (pickled chiles) Pampano Empapelado (pompano in parchment paper) Aguacates Tampico (Tampico-style avocados) The Pleasures of Strudel: Making this buttery, flaky pastry can be almost as much fun, and as addictive, as eating it: detailed instructions and illustrations from Austrian expert Meta Kulnigg. By Margo True [i cannot resist editorializing here: If you're really interested in making strudel, you must also read Robert Farrar Capon's The Supper of the Lamb, which is a marvelous book that happens to have a highly detailed--not to mention philosophical and entertaining--interlude on strudel-making.] Recipes: Strudelteig (strudel dough) Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) Weichselstrudel (morello cherry strudel) Sauerkrautstrudel (sauerkraut and bacon strudel) Milchrahmstrudel (custard strudel) Sidebar: Vienna's Finest: where to go for the city's best store-bought strudels Basques on the Range: The Viscayan sheepherders who began settling in Boise, Idaho, more than a century ago brought along their language, their hearty food, and their exuberant sense of hospitality. By Lynne Sampson Recipes: Basque Red Bean Soup Epi's Beef Tongue Rice Pudding Lamb Txilindron (lamb stew) Bakailao Koskera (cod in white wine sauce with clams and white asparagus) The Guide: where to stay and eat and what to do in Boise In the Saveur Kitchen: Russian cabbage-and-onion pie makes a good afternoon snack; Nancy Lindsay recalls how her dog helped hide a tureen of spilled gravy from guests; chitlins-prep techniques Recipe: Kulebiaka s Kapustoi (cabbage and onion pie) Moment: Signore Claus and his donkey take a snack break, Dec. 22, 1959 in Rome
  25. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, November 2005 First: Margo True muses on how food creates community and reminds people of home--especially in New Orleans. Fare: Gravy Mistress: Lucretia Bingham explains how to make turkey gravy without freaking out. Recipe: Lucretia's Gravy Scotch Guide: Philip Hills has just published The Scotch Whiskey Directory. By Sarah Doyle Lacamoire Summer in a Jar: Pickled peaches smooth over Southern rivalries. By John T. Edge Recipe: Pickled Peaches Where London Gets the Bird: The butcher Lidgates supplies Americans with their Thanksgiving turkeys. By Jenny McPhee Thefts of the Ancients: Thousand-year-old olive trees in Apulia are under threat from fashionable northern Italians who want to buy them for their yards. By Ivar Ekman Agenda: Kellogg's Apple Jacks trademark registered Nov. 1, 1966; Cracklin' Festival in Port Barre, La.; sweet potato festival in Kurimoto, Japan; pinot noir fest in Martinborough, NZ; Festival of the Mountain Masters, Harlan, Ky.; 3-ton salad tossing in Baguio, Philippines; fowl fest in St-Sever, France; Mark Twain's birthday, Nov. 30, 1835 One Good Bottle: Montes Purple Angel Colchagua Valley 2003 ($42) is a blend of Chile's carmenere grape with a few othersL "dark, thick, spicy, intense...a delicious monster." Book Review: Shane Mitchell reviews The Philosopher Fish: Sturgeon, Caviar and the Geography of Desire, by Richard Adams Carey, and King of Fish:The Thousand-Year Run of Salmon, by David R. Montgomery. They're not as compelling as Kurlansky's Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World, but give good environmental background and arguments. Kitchenwise: A Kitchen on the River: a fishing shack converted to a contemporary kitchen, with a pantry with electrical outlets for small appliances; a wine fridge; and a river view. By Kathleen Brennan Cellar: King Lagrein Master winemakers from Trentino-Alto Adige are working wonders with this little-known grape. By John Winthrop Haeger Tasting notes: 11 Italian lagreins, plus 1 from California: Cantina Bolzano Rosso Vigneti Dolomiti "La Pergola" 2003 ($12; "intense juicy fruit; finishes with...soft tannins and a hint of sweetness"), Abbazia di Novacella Lagrein-Dunkel Riserva "Praepositus" 1999 ($34; "intense nose of toasted nuts and coffee...concentrated and chewy in the mouth"), and Mosby Red Wine "La Seduzione" 2001 ($22; the Californian: "rich, seductive, fruit-sweet....long"). Reporter: Michelin Takes a Bite Out of the Big Apple Giles Macdonogh reports on Michelin's first assessment of NYC restos: 500 total, in all five boroughs. Drink: Sweet Renaissance The amazing wines of Hungary's Tokaj region are overlooked, undervalued and unique. By Patrick Matthews Tasting notes: 14 tokajis, mostly aszús, from Hétszölö Ancien Domaine Royal Imperial Tokaj Late Harvest 2004 ($16/750ml; "lively and sweet...good grapey, fruity flavor") to Szepsy Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos 1999 ($120/500ml: "rich and eszencia-sweet, with...a complex weave of fruity flavors, from dried figs to orange peel") Source: MacArthur grant-winner Gary Nabhan is promoting an oregano grown by the Seri Indians of Mexico, available through the Center for Sustainable Environments. By Kathleen Brennan Classic: The Greater Goo: Few desserts are as irresistible as sticky toffee pudding. By Laurie Werner Recipe: Sticky Toffee Pudding Kentucky Home: At William and Rena McClure's, Thanksgiving is a celebration of family, food and a lifetime of self-sufficiency. By Christopher Hirsheimer Recipes: Thanksgiving Roast Turkey with Corn Bread Dressing Creamed Corn Coleslaw Apple Pie Pumpkin Pie An American Cooks in Paris: From the local market to his tiny kitchen off the boulevard Saint-Germain, a top-notch California Chef shows us how to make a perfect lunch. Detailed photos and explanations with the recipes. Alas, some rely on tasty French pork. By Dorothy Kalins Recipes: Foie Gras Pâté Wild Mushroom Sauté Swiss Chard Gratin Roast Pork with Fennel, Garlic and Herbs A Good Green Salad Sidebar: The Connoisseur's Paris: Where to Eat and Shop My Life with Rice: Mei Chin hated rice and couldn't cook it--very, very bad for a Chinese woman. But she got over it. Recipes: Xiangchang Xia Chaofan (Chinese sausage and shrimp fried rice) Ganbel Huasheng Zhou (dried scallop and peanut congee) Zongzi (sticky rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves) Guoba Xiefen Maodou (crab and soybean stir-fry over sizzling rice) Cullen Skink at the Chip: Scotland does have a cuisine, and for more than 30 years, an idiosyncratic restaurant (the Ubiquitous Chip) in Glasgow has been keeping it delicious--and up-to-date. By Colman Andrews Recipes: Cullen Skink (smoked haddock soup) Brandade Fried in Beer Batter with Cauliflower Cream Vegetarian Haggis with Neeps 'n' Tatties Cod with Chile Oil on a Bed of Clapshot (potatoes mashed with turnips) with Fried Arame (seaweed) Braised Ox Heart with Riesling-Washed Cabbage and Skirlie Stovies (oatmeal, potatoes and bacon) Caledonian Oatmeal Ice Cream with Fruit Compote The Guide: Where to stay and eat in Glasgow In the Saveur Kitchen: The Ubiquitous Chip makes tuiles in the shape of forks; Vivian Jao sympathized with Mai Chin's rice hatred, and recommends an automatic cooker Recipes: Fork-Shaped Tuiles Zhenzhu Rouwan (pearl rice balls, aka porcupine balls) Moment: Korean housewives make kimchi en masse outside City Hall in Seoul
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