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zora

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  1. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Playing a little catch-up with my newly revived subscription, so here's the March issue. April will be along shortly. -------------- Saveur March 2004, no. 73 -------------- First: Editor's Letter For Saveur's tenth anniversary: return of Real-Life Kitchen column, new sidebar in Fare section, full-page essay, and nine issues per year, rather than eight; new issue is devoted to wine. -------------- Fare: Vegetarian cafes in Cuba--a response to meat scarcity post-USSR meltdown--cater to locals and inspire pride: everything sold is a product of local agriculture. By Richard Schweid No Rooz (Persian New Year), Tehran, 1978: highlight is kebab kubideh. By Ramin Ganeshram Recipe: Kebab Kubideh (smoky ground lamb and beef) Brewpubs in Seoul are booming, thanks to a change in Korean law. By Laura Shin Saint Joseph's Day, March 19, at Rizzo's Malabar Inn near Philly, calls for an elaborate altar made of bread to honor the patron saint of carpenters, confectioners, and fighters against communism. Also served: "Saint Joseph's pants," deep-fried pastries filled with spiced and honey-sweetened mashed chickpeas. By Marlene Parrish Recipe: Saint Joseph's Pants The coffee break as we know it was started by Norwegian women working in tobacco fields in Stoughton, Wisconsin, in the 1870s, demanding breaks to check on kids and meals. By Iris Brooks New video game Restaurant Empire simulates restaurant ownership. By Neil Plakcy Agenda: Mediterranean Food Festival, Malta; Second Annual Old West Chuck Wagon Cook-off, Austin, Texas; Pasifika Festival, Auckland: Polynesian village cultural exchange; March 14: Anniversary of the shopping cart, invented in 1936 in OKC; Chocolate Moose Festival, cabins at Murie Ranch in Grand Teton National Park are stocked with sweet treats; Foire au Boudin: Mortagne-au-Perche, France; Rainbow and Ramps, Cherokee, NC; March 28: birthday of Frederick Pabst, father of PBR One Good Bottle: Maison Louis Jadot Château de Bellevue, Morgon 2002 ($16); 2001 is even better, but hard to find On the side: Study shows Armagnac may help prevent blood clots. US baby-name trend: brand names like Skyy, Del Monte, Courvoisier. Octodog gadget cuts hot dogs into eight pieces [yes, there's ordering info in the back of the mag]. American Idol winner Ruben Studdard opening a restaurant in Birmingham. Book Review: Classic Conran: Plain, Simple and Satisfying Food, by Terence and Vicki Conran (Conran Octopus, 2004) Homey recipes such as poached turbot in beurre blanc and rabbit terrine . . . even if the Conrans have a lifestyle involving châteaux and champagne. Recipes aren't too elaborate, but require some cooking skills; tips and some humor round out a solid book. Recipe: Ham Saupiquet (ham cooked in red wine with cream and juniper berries) -------------- Cellar By John Winthrop Haeger Grüner veltliner is newly respected: grassy, mineral, perfume-driven. Most important plantings are in northeastern Austria; best vineyards in Danube Valley: Wachau (the beefiest), Kamptal, Kremstal. Grüners can be a little viscous and either refreshingly lean or finishing long and rich. They "almost never express wod; thus they provide welcome relief from chard-ennui." [Ah, wine humor.] Tasting notes: 12 grüner veltliners, from Domäne Wachau Terrasen 2002 ($14; main blend from Wachau's cooperative, mossy nose, crisp, light) to Bründlmayer Lamm 2001 ($46; slightly truffle-scented, ripe, rich, satiny midpalate, peppery finish) -------------- Essay What Kids Knead Children's cookbooks are everywhere today, but they're teaching curious lessons Kelly Alexander notes that 7,500-plus cookbooks cater to kids, but don't seem to actually teach them how to cook, or why they would want to cook. Kids should learn the thrill of transforming simple ingredients into something remarkably different: french toast, for instance. Also, they should know that cooking is fun, not a chore. Her favorite book for this: Betty Crocker's Cook Book for Boys and Girls, from 1957, reissued by Wiley. -------------- Drink Should This Wine Exist? Aren't the vienyards too far north? Isn't the grape a minor one? Not according to the makers of the Loire Valley's best reds By John Winthrop Haeger The Chinon, Bourgueil and St-Nicolas appellations--primarily cabernet franc grapes--are remarkable, given all the factors working against them. Tasting Notes: Couly-Dutheil Les Gravières d'Amador Abbé de Turpenay 2002 ($10) is fruity in the nose, light in body, fading fast on the palate. Charles Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 2000 ($32) has a big generous bouquet, an underpinning of tannin, and a faint mineral character. -------------- Source South River Miso is handmade by Christian and Gaella Elwell in western Massachusetts. By Suki Casanave -------------- Classic Scottish shortbread. By Camas Davis Recipe: Shortbread, using a blend of cake flour and rice flour -------------- Eat Drink Mother Daughter: Enjoying the abundant, humble cooking of modern Tainan, in southern Taiwan, two women savor the taste of what endures By Mei Chin Tainan is more prosperous now than in author's mom's time, but food is still earthy: all parts of pig, silvery milkfish (shi-mu), pa-hsin-a (a rich sauce made of inexpensive ingredients like pork belly, dried shrimp, dried shiitakes and shallots). Mom gets teary-eyed while eating pigs' feet. Gorgeous pics of seafood markets and meals (by Jun Takagi). Recipes: O-a-chian (scrambled eggs with oysters) Hsia-chuan (shrimp wrapped in caul fat) Hai-hsian Chou (seafood and rice soup) Tan-tzu Mian (Tainan-style noodles--brought from Fukien by immigrants in 17th century) Ang-chim-bi-kou (crab with sticky rice) Pa-hsin-a (pork and shrimp sauce--served with crab and sticky rice) Ng-kim-chien-hi-to (fried milkfish stuffed with spicy paste made from the liver) Guide lists hotels, restaurants and sites in Tainan Nick Peirano Feeds the Oregon Wine Country: In his modest restaurant in McMinnville, this third-generation Italian-American has served up hearty fare and championed local vintners for more than 25 years By David Sarasohn Peirano opened his resto in 1977, before Oregon wine scene took off; it became a meeting place and gossip hub for the region. His food is simple, not architectural, and some menu items are tailored to show off pinot noir and pinot gris: béchamel lasagne rather than red-sauce, for instance. Recipes: Seared Prosciutto-Wrapped Asparagus with balsamic vinegar syrup Minestrone--heavy on carrots, celery, with a big dollop of pesto Steamed Manila Clams with a Dijon-Caper Sauce Rabbit Braised in Oregon Pinot Gris and Rosemary with Gorgonzola Polenta Dungeness Crab and Pine Nut Lasagne Chocolate Brandy Hazelnut Torte ("like a Belgian chocolatier's take on a Twix bar") Catalan Contemporary: Modern cooking in Spain's most creative region [sorry, Basques] is innovative, exciting, and sometimes deliciously shocking--and it didn't start with El Bulli Colman Andrews goes to town on his favorite topic, tracing history of nouvelle Catalan pre-Adrià. People like Josep Mercader, Ramon Cabau, Lluis Cruanyas, and Jean Luc Figueras stripped down traditional Catalan dishes like es niu ("the nest": wild birds, salt-cod tripe, stockfish, cuttlefish, pork meatballs, potatoes, rabbit, and eggs, all in a caramelized onion sauce) to their elemental flavors and parts. Mar i muntanya dishes are another standard, mixing seafood and meat. Current great chefs and restos: Carles Gaige at Can Gaige, Santi Santamaria and Àngels Serra at Can Fabes, Figueras. Sidebar: Ferran Adrià and his brother often dine at Julius resto, in Barceloneta, where fish is cooked to order. Recipes: Tatin de Cua de Bou (oxtail tatin) Gelat de Crema Catalana (burnt cream ice cream) Farcellets de Col Farcits de Cargols, Calamars i Salsa de Mar i Muntanya (cabbage stuffed with snails, with squid and 'sea and mountain' sauce) Llobarro, Cruixentt di Botifarra Negra, Eriçons de Mar, i Salsa de Pa Torrat (sea bass with blood sausage, sea urchins, and toasted bread sauce) Canelons amb una Crema de Tofona (cannelloni with truffle cream) Caviar amb Cansalada (pork belly with caviar--though usually boneless pork neck is used in Catalunya) Bacallà Confitat amb Salsa d'All i Rossinyols (salt cod with garlic cream and chanterelles) Guide: hotels and restos in Barcelona and around The Real Rosarita: My grandparents created a Mexican food empire based on assembly-line tamales and tortillas, but at home, everything was made by hand, with Nana's flair Susan Guerrero tells, with a touch of magical realism, how the Rosarita brand of tamales and other frozen foods was developed in Mesa, Arizona. The Guerrero family's roots were in Sonora, Mexico--inspiration for most of the home cooking, and the original Rosita (later Rosarita) tamales with red sauce. Sidebar: Enchilada means only 'dipped in chile' ('chile'd'), so many different forms: flat, stacked, rolled, topped with mole or green chile? Recipes: Yellow Hot Relish (caribe chiles and garlic with vinegar) Fried Pork Chops (thin-sliced, preferably fried in lard) Basic Red Chile Sauce Red Chile Tamales (stuffed with black olives) Capirotada (bread pudding, traditional Lenten dish: bread, colby cheese, butter baked with raisins and sweet syrup infused with cilantro and scallions) Sonoran Enchiladas (in this case, small thick tortillas fried, dipped in sauce and topped with scallions, cheese, olives, lettuce) -------------- In the Saveur Kitchen Allioli of Catalonia is emulsion of garlic and olive oil--no egg. Ferran Adrià makes it into a foam using a nitrous oxide cream whipper--which can be used on any liquid food with enough protein. Recipe: Anxoves a la Romana amb Maionesa Calenta (deep-fried fresh anchovies with warm mayonnaise) Catalan fish stock, the base for many sauces, usually uses whole fish, which is then used in other dishes. Recipe: "Fumet" de Peix i Mariscos (fish and shellfish stock--but this uses just bones, enriched with shrimp shells and tomatoes) Biscotti-like almond cookies (carquinyolis) are common in Catalan bakeries; can be served with ice cream. Recipe: Carquinyolis Real-life Kitchen of Gail Monaghan, cookbook writer who lives in lower Manhattan. Oodles of storage space, lots of wood, clever two-inch-ledge against walls above counters holds spices, oils Iranians prepare rice three ways: steamed with salt and butter (kateh), layered with meats and fruits (polow), and chelo-style, steamed to make crisp golden crust, called tah dig. Recipe: Chelo (Persian steamed rice with a golden crust) In the Saveur library: The Professional Chef by the Culinary Institute of America (Wiley, 2002): "great all-around culinary how-to and reference book" [i beg to differ--it's only great if you already know how to cook . . . and then you probably don't need it.] Tamales 101 by Alice Guadalupe Tapp (Ten Speed Press, 2002): step-by-step diagrams, good recipes -------------- Moment Secretaries working at the Topps Chewing Gum factory in Brooklyn blowing bubbles while they work (1960)
  2. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, Oct 2007 Special Issue: Chicago First: James Oseland explains the choice to dedicate an issue to the Windy City. Fare: The Originals: Chicago inventions in food: The Jibarito (skirt steak in a plantain ‘sandwich’), Shrimp de Jonghe (garlic-stuffed shrimp) and of course the Chicago-style hot dog. By Dana Bowen and Katherine Concila Midwestern Beauties: Artisanal cheeses from Wisconsin, Indiana and elsewhere. By Dana Bowen Everyone’s a Critic: Chicago’s homegrown restaurant-critic show, Check, Please! is a hit on the PBS affiliate. By Elaine Glusac Deeply Delicious: Burt’s is the underground place to go for deep-dish pizza. By Michael Nagrant Old School: Old-fashioned glamour, and food, at the Drake Hotel. By Todd Coleman Recipe: Lobster Thermidor Mother-in-Law Mystery: Is the ‘mother-in-law’ sandwich the progeny of Mississippi Delta hot tamales? John T. Edge investigates, and finds many variations. Agenda: Chicago, 2007-2008 Nov 16-18: The American Indian Center of Chicago’s Annual Pow-Wow; Dec 1-2: Julmarknad Christmas Bazaar (lots of glögg); Feb 9: For the Love of Chocolate Scholarship Benefit; April 27: Greek Orthodox Easter; June 7-8: Ribfest Chicago; June 27-July 6: Taste of Chicago; August 29-September 1: Taste of Polonia; 100th anniversary of Ferrara Pan Candy in 2008 Lives: The Entertainer Rich Melman is the man who reinvented eating out in Chicago. By Jonathan Black Ingredient: Let Them Eat Pate Notes from the foie gras underground. By Peter Sagal Essay: Tomorrowland What Kraft Macaroni & Cheese and Chicago’s cutting-edge restaurants have in common. By Peter Meehan Sidebar: Chicago’s Taste for Invention: weird food inventions! Source: State Street Sweet The inimitable Frango mint, now available at www.macys.com. By Danny Miller Classic: A Sandwich to Dress Down For Chicago’s Italian beef isn’t for dainty eaters. By Carol Mighton Haddix Recipe: Italian Beef Sandwiches CHICAGO!...The Features Heartland of the World You’ve attained gastronomic heights, Chicago, but your roots go deep. By David McAninch City of Pork Chicago’s Polish butchers elevate the humble pig to a smoked and cured art form. By Dana Bowen Recipes: Bigos (sauerkraut and smoked pork stew) Golabki Grzybami (stuffed cabbage rolls) Schab Pieczony y Powidlami (plum-stuffed pork loin) Mielone Kotlety (Polish pork hamburgers) Sidebar: Polish Pork Primer: from szyszkowa to karczek wedzony At the Market Chicago’s food shoppers have the world at their feet: a photo essay, visiting Super H Mart, Baylor’s Melon Market, Moo & Oink and the Lincoln Park Farmers Market. A Chef’s Journey For an acclaimed restaurateur, finding success meant returning to Chicago. By Bruce Sherman of North Pond Recipes: Soft-Boiled Eggs with Bacon-Infused Sweet Potatoes and Parsley Coulis Beets Two Ways Spice-Braised Lamb Shanks with Lentils Apple-Lavender Tarte Tatin Bread-Crusted Halibut with Leek Ragout and Red Pepper Puree South Side Soul Chicago’s soul food restaurants, infused with history, remain close to their Southern roots. By Tracy Poe Recipes: Izola’s Fried Chicken Helen’s Corn Cakes Macaroni and Cheese Mustard Greens with Salt Pork and Spicy Vinegar Rose’s Famous Caramel Cake A Place at the Table For Chicago native Raquel Pelzel, home is where the food is. Recipes: Caviatelli (ricotta dumplings) Sunday Gravy (hearty tomato ragu) Scarola (escarole, sausage and cannellini bean stew) Cauliflower Fritters Chicago Guide: Where to Stay, Where to Eat and More (three whole pages’ worth…) In the Saveur Kitchen: Bruce Sherman swears by a spoon as the ultimate kitchen implement; Katherine Concila praises Chicago-invented flaming saganaki; how to make a parchment-paper lid for a slow-cooking coulis; assorted pork parts, identified; interview with soul-food queen Izola White; how to make the bread crust for the bread-crusted halibut; wine and drink suggestions for the recipes Recipes: Root Beer Cake Moment: a silver-covered street performer snacks on a submarine sandwich on Michigan Avenue.
  3. zora

    Day in Cozumel

    Definitely try Sabores! Very sweet place, literally in this woman's backyard. I _have_ heard that one of the waitstaff has tried to overcharge people, but as long as you go in knowing that the flat price (M$50 last time I checked, but it could be a little more by now) includes a soup and a main dish, as well as the jamaica (hibiscus) drink, it shouldn't be an issue. If you order sodas or whatever, that of course costs a little more.
  4. And re: Arabic in Turkish, I was always so relieved when I saw something in Ottoman Turkish--I'd usually end up saying, "Ooooh, so _that's_ what they're going for." "Itfaiye" reminds me I have no idea how to say fire department in Arabic! But I'm guessing it's _not_ connected to the word for ashtray, which comes from that 'extinguish' root.
  5. Salicornia--good to know! And good to know it's common, as well. The guy at Ciya did write "deniz fasulye" (or the closest thing--I cannot remember sp now), and then we saw "deniz [sth I don't remember]" in the market as we were walking out, which was clearly the same thing. Where that leaves your mystery green, I don't know. Now that I look more closely, I do see the leaves, and it looks suspiciously like that hyssop/zaatar/caperberry/whatever overlap we were talking about over on the sumac thread. But then _everything_ looks like that. Oh well--Ciya will always have some great mysteries.
  6. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, Aug/Sept 2007 First: James Oseland points readers to the Saveur website for some extras, such as the Russian recipe for "Mr. Chicken." Fare: More Meat, Please! Paul Lukas examines vintage meat cookbooks. Recipe: Sloppy Joes Don't Mess with Del: James Oseland recalls great food on a movie set. Recipe: Three-Bean Salad, sans Biz Street Cred: the Vendies are a red-carpet gala for New York's pushcart heroes. By David McAninch Agenda: First patent for shredded wheat cereal machine issued Aug 1, 1893; Sardine Festival in Kaloni, Mytilene, Greece Aug 5; Vermont Fresh Network's 12th annual forum Aug 5; Festival da Pinga in Paraty, Brazil, Aug 23-26; Aug 31-Sep 3 Annual Hearts o' Gold Cantaloupe Festival in Fallon, Nev; Sept 8-30 Zhong Qiu Jie midautumn festival in Singapore; Sept 21-23 Nature Wonder Wild Food Weekend in Cairo, W. Va. Book Review: Bryan Miller reviews the Silver Palate Cookbook 25th Anniversary Edition, and finds it useful, if no longer as revolutionary as it was in 1982. Recipe: Oven-roasted Plum Tomatoes The Saveur List: 6 Food Museums, from the Shinyokohama Raumen Museum in Japan to the Museum der Brotkultur in Ulm, Germany. Cellar: Chill Factor The wines of Chablis bring out chardonnay's austere side. By Paul Lukacs Tasting Notes: Ten chablis, from William Fevre "Champs Royaux" 2005 ($20; "a fine buy...brisk and vibrant") to William Fevre Crand Cru Les Clos Domaine 2005 ($90; "potential to evolve"). Drink: American All-Star Root beer, once the king of soft drinks, still inspires ranks of passionate devotees. By Mary Zajac Recipe: Homemade Root Beer Source: Mountain Beauty: Purple Haze garlic tastes as good as it looks. By Eugenia Bone Classic: Sicilian Mosaic Caponata is a brilliant expression of an ancient, melting-pot cuisine. By Nancy Harmon Jenkins Recipe: Caponata (Sicilian sweet-sour vegetables) Taking Root A family of Hmong immigrants brings centuries-old agrarian wisdom to California's Central Valley. By Andrea Nguyen Recipes: Zaub Ntsuab Hau Xyaw Nqaij Npuas Sawb (Chinese mustard greens soup) Kua Txob Tuav Xyaw Dos (chile-scallion relish) Hmab Qos Liab Kib Xyaw Dos Thiab Qej (stir-fried yam leaves with onions) Dib Iab Kib Xyaw Koojtis Qaib (stir-fried bitter melon with chicken wings) Xwbkuab Kib Xyaw Nqaij Nyug (stir-fried angled luffa with beef) Land of Plenty Vladivostok, once a secrecy-shrouded outpost of the Russian Far East, is now a bustling culinary crossroads. By Sharon Hudgins Recipes: Okroshka (chilled Russian vegetable soup) Buterbrody (open-face herring sandwiches) Morkovi Koreiski (Korean-style carrot salad) Vinegret (beet and potato salad) Krevetki i Grebeshki (poached shrimp and sauteed scallops) Keta Zapechenaya pod Mayonezom (baked salmon with mayonnaise) Sidebar: Tasting Tradition: the history of zakuski ("little bites") The Guide: where to stay and eat and what to do in Vladivostok Like Butter The mystique of avocados, which lend depth and creaminess to countless dishes, is timeless. By Andrea Nguyen Recipes: California Roll Open-Face Avocado and Goat Cheese Sandwiches Lobster and Avocado Salad Fajitas with Green Sauce Sidebar: Love Fruit: the campaign to convince Americans to eat avs Sidebar: Step-by-Step Guacamole Sidebar: Know Your Avocados: photos and descriptions of nine varieties Shrines of Summer Along the shores of Rhode Island, clam shacks are hallowed institutions. By Lucretia Bingham Recipes: Clam Cakes Fried Clams Red Chowder Stuffies (stuffed quahogs) Sidebar: Rhode Island's Beloved Bivalves: all about the quahog Sidebar: Rhode Island Clam Shack Lingo The Guide: where to stay and eat in Rhode Island In the Saveur Kitchen: Dana Bowen researches the use of root beer in cooking; the origins of the term "sloppy joe", by Todd Coleman; what sassafras looks like (and no, it's not illegal), by Todd Coleman; how to buy bitter melons, by Andrea Nguyen; Russian kvas, by Liz Pearson; What to Pour: wine and drink suggestions inspired by the foods in this issue (a new column), by Paul Lukacs Recipes: Root Beer Cake Moment: portrait of Julia Child, in a cornfield
  7. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur June/July 2007: my issue went missing. If I get a replacement copy, I'll come back and edit this post.
  8. So my husband and I have been dreaming of going back to Syria since our first trip in 1999. Finally got around to it in June--we had been in Egypt for about a month, which I think made Syria seem even more like heaven than usual, thanks to its lack of dust and fascination with foreigners. We flew directly into Aleppo and basically hung out there for a week, with a little overnight trip to Lattakia. We didn't actually eat as much as we would've liked, but isn't that always the way. Immediately upon arriving, we went looking for our dream falafel man--a guy who had a little cart and the best damn sandwiches ever in 1999. It was late afternoon, so really not the time. We wound up with a really tasty shawarma sandwich and a kibbeh sandwich--both of which were wrapped up in their pitas then left to sizzle a little in the fat that was dripping off the shawarma. Classy. Dinner that night at al-Andalib--the source of all the noise in our room at the Hotel Baron, but after eating there we couldn't hold it against them at all. Very simple roast chix, fries, salad, beers. Midway through dinner it dawned on me that I was the only woman in the place. But unlike Egypt, that wasn't a big deal. The next day we hunted for our falafel man again (while changing to a cheaper hotel--faded glamour costs a lot!), and we only found some guys with a little sidewalk grill setup. We wolfed down some kofta sandwiches, picking from the pile of mint and hot peppers every few bites. Even at this super-basic operation, the guys had gone to the trouble of threading little bits of lamb fat in between the vegetables on the skewers. So much more delicious. And I've got to hand it to the Syrians for public hygiene--their setup was meticulous, considering they were mincing the meat for the kofta right there. Lots of hand-washing and chopping-block wiping, and water offered to us after we ate. Not to slag off Egypt, but you just don't get that there. Then I asked the guys if they knew our falafel man. I have a hard time with Syrian Arabic, but I am pretty sure they told me he died. We were very very sad, but our delicious lunch took the edge off our grief. We ate at Sissi House, and apparently the courtly old French-speaking waiters have all died as well. I have such fond memories of my 1999 meal there--it's where I had fresh walnuts for the first time, and the old waiter discreetly whispered in my ear (in French) that I had to peel them first. Also, the power went off in the middle of dinner, and the oud player kept playing, and I practically swooned. This time the power stayed on, and we had a much slicker young waiter. He served us well, though, when we asked to have a selection of more unusual things--we explained what we'd eaten before, and then he brought us other stuff. The only really remarkable thing was a super-chunky sort-of muhammara, with lots and lots of char on the red peppers, which were cut up in 1/2-inch chunks or so, drizzled with pom molasses and topped with walnuts. We had a lunch at a random but delicious restaurant on the west side of town right before we left. That's where I got the fresh zaatar salad with white cheese and tomatoes--just a bunch of raw herb chopped up with the other stuff. Very astringent and refreshing. Then a serving of chickpea fatteh that was as big as my head. On a day outing to Lake al-Assad, we had absolutely delicious fish, fresh from the lake and I'm pretty sure brushed with a bit of pomegranate molasses before being grilled. Does anyone know if this is a typical preparation? That's the only explanation I can think of for the way the fish caramelized. Also, the salad that came with had tiny, fine slices of lemon in it, peel and all--great texture. One of the most wonderful things we ate, just due to context, was lunch at a bike shop. We were in there asking about obscure bike parts, and the guy of course spread out newspaper on his desk and shared his big bowl of meat stew, and his rice, and his hot peppers and salt with us. Too bad we'd just eaten about half an hour before... Equally heartwarming was our last-night dinner, back at al-Andalib. This time we were with our Syrian friend, and it turned out the menu was much more extensive--I guess they hadn't felt like explaining it all to us the first time. So we had all kinds of tasty mezze that I unfortunately don't remember, but the thing I was intrigued by most was at the next table, where two guys got a silver platter of cucumbers and tomatoes, all covered in ice, plus a knife. Then they proceeded to make their own salad. And they saw me watching, and sent over a big bowl of it, and it was indeed so much better than what the kitchen was making. We also had some shankleesh, from those same guys, and some funky, mozzarella-texture goat cheese from the guy on the other side. Just thinking about all this makes me teary-eyed. Other small highlights: Sour-cherry ice cream, the sourest I've ever had, with chewy bits of cherry in. Assorted fresh juices--now I understand how six juice stands in a row all stay in business--each one's "cocktail" is a little different. There are a couple more cogent comments on my blog (look in 'Travel for Fun' category), and pictures on Flickr--unfortunately not too many of the food, though.
  9. Suspicious--we had a jar that looked like that with a Greek label for a long time! I appreciate that this Syrian jar has a drawing of the little green sprig on it, which actually clears up a lot. I guess I'll just pickle some of the hyssop from the plant I bought at the farmer's market and see what happens...
  10. ChefCrash, I'm intrigued by your saj setup. Can you describe exactly what you've done there? Looks like you set up a gas range inside a bucket and put a wok on top? Any guidelines for how close the flame should be to the wok surface, that sort of thing? How do you secure the wok? Or do you just balance it on there? I guess I can start with FoodMan's stovetop suggestion... I just like the outdoor arrangement. I've been thinking of a big yard party with all our recent Syria experiences (newspaper on tabletops de rigueur).
  11. I'll pull my notes together and start a separate Syria spread. We didn't get to Damascus this time, but I can say I didn't spot any egg sandwiches in Aleppo. Which is a real shame, because hard-boiled-egg sandwiches are one of my favorite things! Yikes. Savory. Just one more thing to add to the mix. Interesting that you say zaatar farsi gets pickled, because my husband thought the stuff was like the pickled caperberry bush (or what he _thought_ was caperberry bush) he ate a lot in Greece. Later we talked to a woman in a Greek health food store, and she told him it was something else...but not any word we knew that mapped with zaatar. Now I wonder if it's all hyssop. Can someone draw a Venn diagram of this somehow?
  12. Missed your trip, Estufarian, but just wanted to point out that Jennifer James's Graze is now closed, alas. (Sort of mean to read the whole thread about how great it is, and then drop this clunker.) But fortunately things don't change too fast in New Mexico--everything else mentioned previously is still there and perfectly delicious....
  13. zora

    Day in Cozumel

    Oh, I'm so sorry I didn't see this! I hope you had a nice day out! Will post a little something anyway, in case someone Googles: --Sabores, on Av 5 Sur opposite Hotel Las Anclas, is a great little place in a woman's house. Lunch is just a set price (about US$5) that covers whatever they're cooking that day. --El Turix, southern edge of San Miguel. C 17 x 20 and 25, or something like. Home-style Yucatecan cooking. Dinner only, I think. --I hear good things about a newish little place called El Chef, just south of Sabores in the same block. I visited just before it opened last winter--cute setup, very nice owner. --Super-Hit Tortas are a favorite for sandwiches--by baseball stadium, on Av 30. --Coffeelia is a good mellow coffee shop a few blocks south of the plaza.
  14. zora

    Great restaurant in Tulum

    For better Googling: It's actually called Hechizo ('magic'). They're open only in high season--late Nov or December through April, usually, and you should email for reservations, as they only have a few tables. You can probably find the contact online or (ahem, self-promotion) in my Rough Guide to the Yucatan book.
  15. I think your "mystery green" was sea beans (fasulye deniz, plus assorted umlauts). I ate at Ciya just a few weeks after you did, and had some of these from the cold salad bar. Amazing--stewed in olive oil, then chilled, but still a little plump and crispy, and salty in that way that's intrinsic, not added during cooking. Deeeelicious. We also got some desserts, which I've never ordered there before. As usual, all _un_usual. The most memorable one was a sort of dry pistachio crumbly biscuit, not sweet at all, served with marshmallow fluff (uh, the traditional, homemade kind), so that you could combine the two in a single bite and get sweet/not sweet and dry/sticky combinations. Great. Incidientally, sh-r-b is indeed the root for 'to drink' in Arabic, but I think it's actually a back-formation from a Persian word, because the Arabic word for soup, "shurba", is not spelled like normal Arabic words. (If you care: you can't have two consonants following a long vowel. "Shurba" is the example Arabic teachers always trot out as freakish and wrong.)
  16. I was just in Cairo, and I can tell you that every single American expat I talked to _raved_ about Lucille's. Not just for the burger, but for stuff like free soda refills. (Ah, what would be more authentically American than that?) It's a full-on craze. But I myself did not get down to Ma'adi for a meal. I ate a damn fine burger at Crave, in Zamalek, but now I'm wondering if I made a mistake by writing off Ma'adi entirely. I did like in the article that they specified that they added fat to the mix--which I'm sure would constitute a "secret ingredient" in the US because no one would admit to that kind of thing. And my guess as to one of their actual secret ingredients: fish sauce. Betcha anything. In fact, next time I make a burger at home, I'll brush a little on it while it's cooking. On the down side, I actually ate a terrible, mealy tomato this time in Egypt--first time ever. I heard from a friend in Cairo that the current Minister of Agriculture started all kinds of greenhouse programs and a lot more industrialized/chemicalized/nastyized farming. Thanks for nothing. Now apparently the only place to get reliably good produce is at small markets in poorer neighborhoods, because that stuff comes from little farms right in Cairo, on the islands around Ma'adi... Hmmm--perhaps Lucille's has a connection.
  17. I'm headed to Cairo tomorrow for a month, to do research for a travel guide. I used to live there, but now it downs on me that it was ten whole years ago! So I've got all the usual guides and other references, but I'd appreciate hearing restaurant recommendations from well-traveled food fans such as yourselves...
  18. Rats--missed any "crispy" pizza options! And no pics of the Italian Club, but let me tell you, it is a great little joint (better be, for LE10 cover!), what with the little red-check tablecloths, and the wine, and the super-crispy pizza, and the grilled veggies and the fact that you could only baaaarely hear the Cairo traffic. (Although, whoa, the place is located on one of the most stressful intersections Downtown--I felt like I might die before I got there, all in the name of some illicit pork. Which was pretty tasty, by the way.) Other food stuff: the place the cats climb around in is the Greek Club, most likely, where they have the pergola set up on the terrace--I saw a bunch up there, looking hopefully for fish bits. Felfela is still ridiculously decorated, but doesn't seem to have any beasts of any kind inside. I went to Estoril...and could not get served. It was just a bad day in which my overall exhaustion intersected with typical Egyptian service, which requires the customer be pretty assertive. But it _looks_ like a great place. A local friend confirmed to me that Estoril is renowned for rotten service, and it wasn't just me, sitting all alone and wimpy at the bar and feebly trying to get someone to pay attention to me. Easily the best meal we had was our last night, when we went to Gomhuriyya, in Bab al-Louq, for stuffed pigeon. That's all they do, basically. And there's nothing in the restaurant but a few tables and a couple of sinks for washing all the grease off when you're done picking the birds apart. They serve the pigeon broth on the side in mugs--it's got little bits of rice and lots of lemon and pepper. Soooo good. But apparently you can only get the soup if you also order pigeon--but then it's all-you-can-drink soup. Such a deal! Also in that same area--on Midan Falaki--is a big kebab-y joint that specializes in lamb chops. A friend ordered them for delivery one night and they were sooooo good. If you go in the restaurant, it smells like nothing but grilling meat, and you will nearly keel over with desire. I'm spacing the name, but it's on the west end of Midan Falaki, on the south side, and is kind of glitzy-looking compared with surround businesses. Also ate some surprisingly good Thai food (I suppose the Thai-government-sponsored restaurant promotion abroad is really working)--some at the resto in the Semiramis, which was pricey and very, very hot (rare in Egypt), and some at a place in Zamalek called Sebai Sebai, where some stuff was ho-hum, but it was cheaper and had a nice terrace. I guess most normal people visiting Cairo would not look for Thai food, but I was there for a long time. I ate at Taboula in Garden City too, and it was so-so. Tomeyya was delish, and a couple other things, but meatballs were leaden and would've made a Lebanese grandmother weep with despair. The place is now owned by the restaurant group that also owns Abou el-Sid and Tabasco and Absolute and so on...so I thought the decor was nifty, but then I went to the other places and saw it was all the same. Cairo is still a small town in a lot of ways. And my husband claims that Koshari at-Tahrir is actually better than Abu Tarek. Escandalo! For the record, I only felt mildly queasy one day, which is very good odds for me traveling anywhere, but my husband was laid low for a very long day, and he has a cast-iron stomach. Not sure what he ate, or if it was just overall dehydration, etc. We were fine after that, and even ate more enthusiastically. More Egypt stories, and maybe food stuff I forgot, on my blog (see link in signature)--click on the "Travails of a Guidebook Author" category. In one of those posts there's a link to my Flickr set for the trip, which has pics of the actual pigs in the zabbalin quarter, one of whose friends I probably ate on a pizza. Thanks for all the advice!
  19. To follow up on that way-back comment/query about sumac lemonade: I had some of this when I was just in Istanbul (oh, Ciya, I love you!), and it was quite nice, though not quite as zingy as I would've liked. Sounds like Sazji would know better, but I think you just steep the whole sumac berries like you would a tea, and then add sugar. It has a great pink flavor. I got myself some whole sumac while in Turkey, so maybe I can make myself a stronger version. On the zaatar tip, one of the 8 million delicious things I just ate in Syria was a salad of zaatar, soft cheese and tomato. I was a little perplexed when it came to the table, because the zaatar element looked exactly like chopped-up rosemary...but then tasted more like oregano. It was a pretty intense salad. A trip to the farmers market, and reading a little of this thread, I now see that's what we call hyssop, the something-or-other spicata variety. Anyway, it was interesting to see zaatar used (in Arabic, not just random translation) to describe this plant as well. Looking at all the overlapping varieties of thyme/oregano/marjoram/zaatar/hyssop makes me feel a little dizzy.
  20. Duh--I only just now remembered I posted this Q. Thanks for all the answers. I will definitely check out Estoril--it's on my list along with the all the other old-guard joints downtown, and I just didn't know if _any_ were any good these days. As for Hep C--I know it's a huge problem here, but isn't it blood-borne? I've got my Hep A and B inoculations all up to date, so I'm feeling cocky about the street food issues. Even though I had to take two months of heavy-duty antibiotics last year, which probably knocked out my collection of useful stomach critters.... Hanshuuf ba'a--we'll see. And good to know about the place in Ma'adi and the Japanese joint--will try to track 'em down. As for the Greek Club--I know it well! Probably too well. Sooo many rooftop beers, french fries and chicken livers consumed there. And just putting it out there for future Googlers, though I haven't yet been: the Italian Club is now open to non-Italians--#40 Sh. 26 July. Going there this weekend. Allegedly the best pizza, cheap Chianti, and actual pork products! Thanks, everybody.
  21. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, May 2007 First: Managing editor Lily Binns recalls doing research in Mexico City’s Mercado de la Merced during protests at the presidential inauguration. Fare: Eight-Story Glory: The time-honored Smith Island cake is a many-layered wonder. By Mary Zajac Recipe: Smith Island Cake (eight-layer chocolate–peanut butter cake) Cool Operator: The ultimate mint julep. By Lily Binns Recipe: Mint Julep A Friend, Plainly Spoken: remembering Sharon Tyler Herbst, author of Food Lover’s Companion. By Dana Bowen Meet the Tenderizer: Vincent Cutrone has invented machines to tenderize octopus. By Rachael Philipps Shapiro Agenda: 54th annual Cosby Ramp Festival in Tenn., May 6; Candat Sotong Fiesta in Redang, Malaysia celebrates squid May 11-13; May 18, 1936, birthday of Allan Burns, inventor of Cap’n Crunch; Lodi Zinfest in Lodi, Calif., May 18-20; May 19 is Sagra dei Limoni in Monterosso, Italy; Le Fete du Chocolat du Bromont, Quebec, May 19-27; May 26-27 Czech/Slovak Fest at Bohemian Hall in Astoria, Queens, New York Book Review: Irene Sax reviews Thomas McNamee’s Alice Waters and Chez Panisse: The Romantic, Impractical, Often Eccentric, Ultimately Brillian Making of a Food Revolution. It’s delightful and inspirational. Sidebar Book: Madhur Jaffrey’s Climbing the Mango Trees: A Memoir of Childhood in India, about growing up in Delhi, is a mesmerizing read. The Saveur List: 10 Ways to Eat on Oahu: plate lunches, box meals, farmer’s markets. By Shane Mitchell Kitchenwise: Former Food Network exec C.M. Reinhardt describes the process of converting a Carnegie Library building in rural Nebraska into a functional living space and kitchen (includes clever use of old card catalog). Cellar: French Twist There’s more to Alsation Riesling than what’s on the label. By John Landsdowne Tasting notes: 10 Alsation rieslings, from Maison Kuentz-Bas Cuvee Tradition 2004 ($15; “tart graphefruit, robust minerality”) to Domaine Weinbach Grand Cru Schlossberg Vendanges Tardive Trie Speciale 2004 ($120; “cream, sensational nose…considerable sweetness”) Lives: A Host of Possibilities Choumicha Acharki, the star of a popular Moroccan cooking show has more than just food on her mind. By Kent Davis-Packard and Holly Shaffer Source: Cesare Mazzetti’s handmade copperware keeps an ancient tradition alive. (www.rameria.com) By Elisa Herr and Ed Schoenfeld Classic: Dream Whip England’s syllabub is a simple but spirited dessert. By Tamasin Day-Lewis Recipe: Syllabub (English sherry-infused mousse) La Merced A visit to Mexico City’s sprawling central market makes for a homecoming like no other. By Mauricio Velazquez de Leon Recipes: Salsa de Tres Chiles (three-chile salsa) Ensalada de Nopales (cactus salad) Esquites (corn with lime juice and chile powder) Quesadilla de Flor de Cabaza (squash blossom quesadilla) Verdolagas con Carne de Puerco (purslane and pork stew) The Guide: Where to stay in Mexico City, and where to eat in La Merced Toss & Serve Salads aren’t merely a light repast. They tell the story of who we are. By Barbara Kafka Recipes: Spinach Salad with Hot Bacon Dressing Watercress Salad with Ranch Dressing Chef’s Salad with American French Dressing Mixed Green Salad with Green Goddess Dressing Mesclun Salad with Goat Cheese and Balsamic Vinaigrette Iceberg Lettuce with Thousand Island Dressing Sidebar: A Guide to Greens. By Molly Stevens Sidebar: All Dressed Up: five popular dressings Sidebar: Raising the Bar: A brief history of the all-American salad bar. By Todd Coleman A Land Apart For centuries, the language and culture of Spain’s Basque region have distinguished its people—and food has bound them together. By Sofia Perez Recipes: Marmitako (tuna stew with potatoes and peppers) Sopa de Ajo (Basque-style garlic soup) Porrusalda (potato and leek soup) Bacalao al Pil-Pil (salt cod in garlic sauce) Talos con Chocolate (corn tortilla with melted chocolate) The Guide: where to stay and eat in Basque country Stars of India How tandoori chicken, naan and korma became Indian restaurant classics. By Margo True Recipes: Tandoori Chicken Dal Makhani (creamy spiced Indian lentils) Bhaigan Bhartha (mashed smokey eggplant with tomatoes) Naan (tandoori flat bread) Karim’s Korma (goat curry) Matar Paneer (curry with peas and fresh cheese) The Guide: where to stay and eat in Delhi In the Saveur Kitchen: the art of the supermarket flyer, by Todd Coleman; the essential ice crusher, by Lily Binns; in praise of purslane, by Katherine Alford; Basque technique for breaking off ragged chunks of potatoes for stews, by Sofia Perez; how to make paneer; yes, people drink buttermilk, by Todd Coleman; Liz Pearson praises Saveur interns; an interview with a Basque corn miller, by Sofia Perez Recipe: Kwasne Mleko Ze Szczypiorkiem (Polish buttermilk drink with chives) Moment: A toilet-themed restaurant in southern Taiwan
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    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, April 2007 First: Deputy ed David McAninch remembers when crepes were the epitome of fancy-French in America. Fare: Southern Spread: A favorite in the Southeast, mayhaw jelly is a sweet-tart sensation. By Mary Zajac Curry in a Hurry: Berlin’s beloved currywurst is a German institution. By Todd Coleman Recipe: Currywurst Sauce Treasure of the Tropics: Pixbae (aka piba, pewa, pupunha, peach palm fruit) is worth seeking out when in Panama, Brazil or similar climes. By Scott Mahler Norse New York: Manhattan’s Norwegian Seamen’s Church hosts a weekly Scandinavian feast. By Jennifer Keeney-Sendrow Agenda: BBC “Spaghetti Harvest” hoax perpetrated Apr. 1, 1957; Pennsylvania Herb Festival in York, Pa., Apr 13-14; Sekaten, Indonesian feast celebrating Muhammad’s birthday, begins Apr 14; Symposium: Cooking Up 400 Years of Culinary History in Virgina Apr 21-21 in Blacksburg, Va.; Philippolis Witblits Stookfees celebrates moonshine in South Africa, Apr 20-21; Hood River Valley Blossom Festival celebrates cherries in Oregon Apr 21-22; Apr 27-29 is the Interstate Mullet Toss in Pensacola, Fla.; Ludwig Bemelmans, author of the Madeline books, born Apr 30, 1898 Book Review: David McAninch reviews A Tale of 12 Kitchens: Family Cooking in Four Countries The Glory of Southern Cooking, by James Villas, and Great American Beer: 50 Brands That Shaped the 20th Century, by Christopher B. O’Hara. Villas’s work gentrifies many of the basics, and offers a lot of cocktail nibbles, along with Southern anecdotes—but the recipes are solid. O’Hara’s book is fun to look at as well as read, with its vintage ads. Recipe: Stewed Okra and Tomatoes Cellar: Wild Flower: Voluptuous viognier flourishes around the globe. By Paul Lukacs Tasting Notes: 12 viogniers, from Cono Sur Colchagua Valley 2006 ($10; “floral and sweet spice bouquet…fine value”) to Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu “La Petite Cote” 2005 ($65; “sumptuously aromatic, …simultaneously sweet and mineral laden”) Source: Meet the Bruttles: Bruttles Candy makes this refined version of peanut brittle dipped in chocolate. By Marlene Shyer Memories: The Ritual of Soup: The centerpiece of Pamela Renner’s family seder is layered with meaning. Recipe: Matzo Ball Soup Drink: Up, Up, and Away The Santa Cruz Mountains appellation is a winemaking region on the rise. By James Conaway Tasting Notes: Four bottles that reflect the range of styles in the Santa Cruz Mountains, from Mount Eden Vineyards Chardonnay ($38) to Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon ($160). Classic: Chinatown Gems Bite-size siu mai are the stars of any dim sum feast. By Christina Eng Recipe: Siu Mai (open-face pork and shrimp dumplings) The Soulful Crepes of Brittany The signature food of France’s rugged northwestern province is born of the land and the sea. By Nancy Coons Recipes: Crepes de Blé Noir (buckwheat crepes) Sauce Noix de Saint Jacques (scallops in white wine cream sauce) Confit d’Oignons au Cidre (cider-spiked onion confit) Crepes Flambées au Lambig (white-flour crepes flambéed with cider brandy) Kouigns Bigoudens aux Pommes (thick crepes with sautéed apples) Crepes Complètes de Blé Noir (buckwheat crepes with gruyere, ham and egg) Sidebar: Brittany’s Drink of Choice: cider can be as subtle as a good wine The Guide: where to stay, eat and drink and what to do in Brittany Spring Green Chives are more than a pretty garnish; they’re among the earliest harbingers of the season to come. By Molly Stevens Recipes: Chive and Goat Cheese Omelette Seared Tri-Tip Sirloin Steaks with Chive Butter Knife-and-Fork Egg Salad Sandwiches with Chives Chive and Cheddar Biscuits Tagliatelle with Chive Oil and Cremini Mushrooms Sidebar: Garlic chives are distinctly different from the onion variety. My Singapore A native son celebrates the delicious foods of his country. By Christopher Ten Recipes: Fried Taugeh (stir-fried bean sprouts) The Alia (ginger milk tea) Nyonya Udang Masak Nanas (shrimp and pineapple curry) Serikaya (coconut jam) Ketumbar Chicken (braised chicken with coriander) Sidebar: Where to Graze: ten great food vendors The Guide: Where to stay in Singapore The Diner One Massachusetts restaurant is among the last, great shrines to honest American cooking. By Todd Coleman Recipes: Agawan Chicken Pies American Chop Suey Don’s Homemade Hash Christine Galanis’s Greek-Style Vegetables Coconut Cream Pie Sidebar: The Agawam Lexicon: a glossary of diner-ese In the Saveur Kitchen: Lily Binns praises cooks’ hands; how to make a butter roll; what a tri-tip is; Todd Coleman relates the history of the shandy; Georgia Freedman on matzo; a short interview with “Brittany’s Sardine Lady,” Madeleine Briois; Agawam’s ancient Hobart mixer Recipes: Matzo Brei (scrambled eggs and matzo) Moment: Playboy Bunnies and Penthouse Pets compete in a waitresses’ race, 1972
  23. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, March 2007 First: James Oseland recalls learning to cook—very informally—in family kitchens in Indonesia. But converting that to printable recipes is a challenge. Fare: Quenched, Indian Style: Mumbai’s drink vendors add spice and more. By Litty Mathew Recipe: Jal Jeera (cumin-laced tamarind and mint cooler) Cold Comfort: Chef Kirsten Dixon brings more than mere sustenance to the mushers of Alaska’s Iditarod. By Jenna Schnuer Fiery Fruit: The tiny sansho pepper, cousin of Sichuan pepper, gives Japanese cuisine a kick. By Shane Mitchell Agenda: Festival Internacional de La Vendimia celebrates grapes in Ica, Peru, Mar 5-17; drink strong beer at Starkbierzeit at Paulaner am Nockherberg in Munich Mar 8-25; Milk River Wagon Train Nut and Gut Feed cooks pioneer-style in Malta, Mont., March 10; Ranelagh, Tasmania, offers A Taste of the Huon March 11-12; March 12 is the anniversary of the first patent granted for starch processing, 1841; Charles Sutherland Elton, developer of the idea of the food chain in 1927’s Animal Ecology, born March 29, 1900; Newport Pig Cookin’ Contest in Newport, N.C., Mar 30-31; Public Bake Day in Fort Gibson, Okla., on March 31, uses the fort’s giant public oven. Book Review: Todd Coleman reviews A Tale of 12 Kitchens: Family Cooking in Four Countries, by Jake Tilson, a graphic reminiscence of kitchens in Tuscany, New York, Los Angeles and Scotland. Coleman finds it “breezy, smart and surprisingly unpretentious.” Recipe: Beet and Sumac Salad In the Beginning: Saveur’s 100th issue prompts a look back at its first. The Saveur List: 12 honeys, from Italian chestnut to Hawaiian kiawe. By Sierra Burnett Kitchenwise: Hizzoner’s Retreat: A look a former New York City mayor Ed Koch’s humble apartment space, complete with a snapshot of his fridge’s contents. By Georgia Freedman Cellar: Uncommon Grace: Volnay is a smooth, sensual red burgundy. By Michael Steinberger Tasting Notes: Eleven volnays from 2003 and 2004, from Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Clos de Chenes 2004 ($65; “muscular…with spicy cherry fruit across the palate and pronounced oak”) to Domaine Leroy Santenots-du-Milieu 2003 ($570; “blackberry-infused bouquet…pronounced tannins, and fairly spicy in the mouth. Finishes quite sweet.”). Memories: Tasting Freedom Ma Thanegi reminisces about time spent in a Myanmar prison, and the imaginary meals enjoyed there. Recipe: Pei Daunt Shay Thoke (Myanmar-style long bean salad) Source: Miracle Cure: Thick-cut bacon from Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams. By Todd Coleman Classic: Roman Art Spaghetti alla carbonara pleases even the most finicky palates. By Mei Chin Recipe: Spaghetti alla Carbonara Mighty Shrimp A celebration of America’s favorite seafood. By Andre Baranowski, Penny de los Santos and James Oseland Part One: Why we love shrimp. By Wayne Curtis Part Two: A day on the water. By Wayne Curtis Part Three: How to cook shrimp. By James Peterson Recipes: Shrimp Scampi with Linguine Barbecued Shrimp Shrimp Boil Stir-Fried Shrimp with Snow Peas Shrimp Cocktail Maine Shrimp Chowder Sidebar: Know Your American Shrimp: photos and descriptions of seven major varieties. By Jennifer Salerno Sidebar: North Atlantic Treasure: the delicate northern pink (Maine) shrimp is best served nearly raw. By Jon Levitt Sidebar: How to Buy Shrimp: fresh vs. frozen, which size, what’s fresh. By James Peterson Ancient Hunger The vibrant cuisine of northern Peru—with its blend of chiles, corn, yuca, potatoes and seafood—is rooted in both the Old World and the New. By Maricel E. Presilla Recipes: Yuca Hervida Sudado de Pescado (Huanchaco-style fish stewed in tomatoes and chiles) Cebiche de Mero al Estilo de Hunchaco (grouper ceviche) Salsa de Aji Escabeche y Paico (Andean yellow chile and epazote salsa) Pepian de Garbanzos (chickpea porridge with chile oil) The Guide: where to stay and eat in Peru The Glory of Red Cooking This traditional Chinese cooking method yields melt-in-your-mouth results. By Grace Young Recipes: Hong Shao Yu (red-cooked fish) Si Xi Kaufu (four happiness wheat gluten) Hong Shao Rou (red-cooked pork belly) Hong Shao Ji (red-cooked chicken) Sweet Life A gifted baker with the soul of a poet brings the refined art of the French pastry to upstate New York. By Darra Goldstein Recipes: Gateau Saint-Honoré Lemon Meringue Tart Chocolate Babka In the Saveur Kitchen: Get to the bottom of it all by rediscovering the technique of stirring, says Todd Coleman; the history of cocktail sauce, by Todd Coleman; a brief interview with Chinese food consultant Eddie Schoenfeld; how to devein a shrimp without removing the shell; how to deal with yuca, by Maricel E. Presilla; all about pork belly, by Brigit Binns; wheat gluten, the “Chinese chameleon,” by Grace Young Recipes: Ed Koch’s Broiled Swordfish with Olives Moment: An overly enthusiastic toddler enjoys her birthday cake. (Ew.)
  24. zora

    DIGEST: Saveur

    Saveur, January 2006 First: Producing the Saveur 100 is haaaard work! Fare: The Drink Artist: A purist amateur bartender in Brooklyn is a master of the artisanal cocktail. By John Lansdowne Recipe: Orange Bitters Miracle Leaf: The essence of pandan is at the heart of countless Southeast Asian dishes. By Pat Tanumihardja Recipe: Kacang Ijo (spiced mung bean dessert porridge) Hale and Hearty: Galaxy gazing is better after a good meal, reports Joseph Carson from San Diego’s Palomar Observatory. Agenda: Second annual Florida Keys Seafood Festival, Jan. 13; patent for neon lighting obtained, Jan. 19, 1915; Oregon Truffle Festival, Willamette Valley, Ore., Jan. 26–28; Ka Moloka’i Makahiki Festival on Molokai, Hawai’i, Jan. 27; Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, Spain, on Feb. 18 involves lots of cava and candy; Spring Festival in Port Louis, Mauritius, Feb. 18; Feria Regional del Café y del Guayaba in Canelas, Mexico, Feb. 18–26 Book Review: Bryan Miller reviews the new edition of the Culinary Institute of America’s The Professional Chef, and praises the expanded “world cuisines” section and the photo-illustrated sections on technique. Technique: Fluting (typically used on mushrooms) Drink: Sea Change: Bordeaux’s Entre-deux-Mers is shaping up to be the little wine region that could. By Roger Morris Tasting Notes: Three reds from Entre-deux-Mers: Chateau Balestard 2003 ($35; “rounded fruit”), Chateau Le Grand Verdus 2003 ($25; “solid wine with cherry flavors…food-friendly finish”) and Girolate 2001 ($100; “sweet blackberry and lightly minted chocolate”) Kitchenwise: Cookbook authors Naomi Duguid and Jeffrey Alford gave up a dining room in favor of a large, casual kitchen—but they kept the standard-issue four-burner range-top, as it keeps their recipe-testing down-to-earth. Memories: A Fine Virginian A beloved great-aunt’s cooking wisdom could fill a book. By Lucretia Bingham Recipe: Aunt Fan’s Devil’s Food Cake Source: Rising Star: King Arthur’s sticky buns are gooey perfection. By Kathleen Brennan Classic: Spanish Comfort Galicia’s hearty caldo gallego warms both body and soul. By Sofia Perez Recipe: Caldo Gallego (Galician meat and vegetable soup) The Saveur 100 The annual roundup of the staff’s favorite foods, restaurants, drink, people, places and things, with a special tip of the cap to maitre d’s and do-gooders. A random sampling: Zankou Chicken in LA, canned peas (?!), Engin Akin of Turkey, Patel Bros., oyster loaf at Casamento’s in New Orleans, Philippine food, white foods (again, ?!), Mexico City cuisine, Lost Abbey beer, vermouth as cooking wine, carbon-steel knives, Edna Lewis, food-shaped band-aids, runny cheeses and purple-sweet-potato vinegars Recipes: Betty’s Spaghetti (from Thomas Keller) Shashlyk (spicy grilled pork kebabs) Wafuu Curry (Japanese-style chicken curry) Grissini (crunchy Piedmontese breadsticks) Mousse au Chocolat (chocolate mousse) Sauerbraten mit Kartoffel Klosse (pot roast with potato dumplings) Fitty-Fitty (half-gin, half-vermouth cocktail) Venison with Seared Foie Gras Nassau Grits Texas-Style Pecan Pralines Poached Sole with Vermouth Baked Feta with Roasted Red Peppers and Lemon-Oregano Broth (from Water Works restaurant in Philadelphia) Edna Lewis’s Coffee Armenian Tahini Bread Bakwan (crisp celery green fritters) Yogurt Panna cotta with Pineapple Sorbet and Cilantro Gelée (from ChickaLicious) Denver Sandwich Pav Bhaji (spicy mashed vegetable curry with rolls) In the Saveur Kitchen: Mormon generosity creates some memorable food, by Lucy Hayes; the recipe for James Oseland’s Taiwanese friend’s green beans, mentioned in the November 2006 issue; how to peel garlic cloves in bulk, by Kate Fox; Spanish vs. Mexican chorizo, by Liz Pearson; how to do the butcher’s slipknot, by Todd Coleman; Maxine Kaplan supplies all the props for the photo shoots Recipes: Utah’s Famous Green Jell-O Salad Stir-fried Green Beans a la Tang Moment: An English pub patron shows off the Last Supper tattoo on his beer belly.
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