ned
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Posts posted by ned
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Fancy chicken fingers, creative cucumber peeling. . . dude you're in the zone. My guy was eating terrine of foie gras for a while and then all of a sudden it's carb city. All he eats is pastry and french fries. . . and cucumbers by the dozen. Actually the only sure-fire menu item is bacon. And lollipops and gallons and gallons of milk. I've had success with home made fish sticks. Haddock, flour, egg wash, panko. Canola. It's not so messy or wasteful of oil if you can find a pan that uses space efficiently so you don't have to use so much oil.
Doesn't Whole Foods or Trader Joe do some kind of organic baked chicken finger?
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Can you thicken sauces with gelatin?
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Sounds like a great idea to me. I'm sure you can find a way to do it where the leg stays together.
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I saw Pepin do something on tv that was so simple, I kind of always have it in mind when I make tomato sauce these days. Took him about three minutes. In food processer mix an onion, some garlic and some olive oil, salt and lots of black pepper, sugar if necessary and canned tomatoes. Done. Heat and use as necessary. I usually skip getting the food processer all messy and cut the onions and garlic really finely with a knife and then heat them all up in a pan with San Marzano canned tomatoes (though now I'm curious to try the Pomi). I'm a sucker for cool packaging and at the moment I've been buying these cans that have a simple white label and a nice rendering of some red tomatoes. No sauteeing. Just heat it all up in the pan and serve. No herbs in the sauce. More like on it.
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And Jason Perlow says:
http://offthebroiler.wordpress.com/2007/02...ning-pinkberry/
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I was at Seki last week eating Omakase more or less and Seki served up something that I haven't been able to stop thinking about. Some kind of Japanese beef. Raw and as sushi. He may have put some kind of sauce on it, I don't remember. But the texture and flavor were unforgettable. At least I'm having trouble forgetting them.
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In addition to eating so-called haute food in the dining rooms of haute restaurants I've also had the opportunity to eat pleanty of it in the kitchens where it's being made and not off of French porcelain or with fourteen different pieces of silverware, (indeed sometimes with no silverware at all) never with wine. The cooks who are on the forefront of this trend (Yumcha comes to mind. RIP) have experiences of this day in and day out. The ties and sirs and sliverplating, linen and in general the celebration of wealth that in the past has inevitably accompanied the experience of eating highly creative food clash with the culture of the kitchen. It could be a marker of the way in which the chef has risen in visibility that his experience and vision of the food is coming to be more represented in the way in which the food is presented to the diner. For my money, I'm really intersted in the ideas that are flying around in the kitchen at a restaurant like Per Se but much less so in the part of the bill that pays for the real estate, the interior design, the army of servers and all the finery of service. In short, what I think Chang and others are trying to do--FG I think you're the one who invoked postmodernism--is dissemble the gastrolinguistic divide between his experience and the diner's. I am all for this as a zeitgeist and hope it catches on like wildfire.
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Anyone know where to find Compass Box in Manhattan?
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Is there a particular sea salt that is best for everyday cooking? I rarely add salt when cooking, so to be honest, I've never used sea salt.
The 1828 Webster's dictionary defines offal as: "Waste meat; the parts of an animal butchered which are unfit for use or rejected."
The current (10th) edition of Webster's has it as: "1 : the waste or by-product of a process: as a : trimmings of a hide b : the by-products of milling used especially for stock feeds c : the viscera and trimmings of a butchered animal removed in dressing : VARIETY MEAT"
The Online Etymology Dictionary gives the word origins as: "1398, "waste parts, refuse," from off + fall; the notion being that which "falls off" the butcher's block; perhaps a translation of M.Du. afval."
I stand corrected.
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The definition may be a subjective one. Wikipedia starts out with my definition and then follows with Sam's as if they are the same thing.
How about "The parts of animals that most Americans are afraid to eat"?
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The thing that's cool about Pinkberry's yogurt is that it really tastes like yogurt. It has a distinct sourness. I've never tasted a frozen yogurt like that before.
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I don't have any basis for this other than female intuition. . . but I don't entirely agree with your definition Sam. I think it's just organs and glands. No feet, no tendons, no head. Brains yes but not the head meat which is what goes into a head cheese.
Now I'll go and check.
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Thanks Nancy.
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That wikipedia entry above has this story.
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I'm a regular stroller partier at Otto. I love it there (at the bar) and, Emma, I'm inviting all my stroller partying friends. You never know, you may push one of those things yourself one day. And have a craving for octopus with celery and lovage just at the moment when your toddler has crashed in his dreaded stroller after a couple of hours of heavy play in Washington Square Park.
They deliver!
I'm sure you're munchkin is cute and brilliant, but before you had one...didn't you ever want not to hear their wails?
My son only ever wails when I beat him and I'd never do that at a Mario Batali restaurant.
I was at Otto a couple of days ago and mentioned this thread and the baby dilemna to the bartender Dennis. He had an interesting response which was that both Batali and Bastianich have kids and that the restaurant was conceived as one where kids would be more than welcome. He went on to say that kid-friendliness is a property they look for in their waitstaff. Dennis claimed that in the interviews they usually say "If you don't like kids, you probably shouldn't work here."
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The price, hunh? Four bucks for a giant tub of sour frozen yogurt. Sure it's worth it. I guess it depends on how many of them you eat a day.
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More grist fr the mill: Fatty Crab
nope...it's well-executed takes on Asian street food and home cooking. I love the place, don't get me wrong, but that's what it is.
(yes, some of the menu at Ssam Bar fits in that category...but much of it is quite a bit more elevated than anything at Fatty Crab)
in other words, remember where this thread came from - the Bouley Upstairs and Ssam Bar threads.
This is not a "cheap but really really good" thread. (we already have those)
Hard for me to think of anything more elevated than the watermelon belly salad. And I'm not so sure most of those dishes at Fatty Crab actually derive from street food except in the chef's imagination.
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More grist for the mill: Fatty Crab.
Whether or not it corresponds to the letter of the thread title, in the service of an inquiry into the elusive quality we're hunting, I'm going to stick with the quality of the front of the house as a very important component to this trend. High food, executed by canon-based cooks in an environment where nobody calls you sir, there aren't tablecloths, and in some way or another. . . something about an acceptance of a certain sort of ill-manneredness. Messy eating is encouraged.
I was imagining, ok fantasizing the other day about the prospect of eating Delouvrier's Ducasse food served at Prune by Prune's servers but at slightly larger tables. The price, to me is a lesser issue in terms of this zeitgeist
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I haven't been two WD-50 in over a year. The price isn't really what I was thinking about. More the aesthetics of the front of the house experience. This is to say, the interior, the tenor the waitstaff strikes, the sartorial expectations. It's not a formal restaurant. Neither starchy nor fussy.
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I can't believe that I'm the first to mention WD-50.
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Someone may beat me to recommending it to ya, but Montreal's Le Pied Du Cochon (Chef Martin Picard) has recently published a great eponymous cookbook which many of us are searching for US distributors.
The work is part recipes, part comic book and includes a DVD recipe walkthrough.
I'd very much like to get a copy soon.
~C
I managed to grab a copy of APC at Kitchen Arts and Letters last week. They wouldn't tell how they got it but said it was a struggle. I brought it to bed with me that night and didn't turn off the light until I had read the last page. A really great book. I want to send copies to all of my friends. Here is a man (Martin Picard) who truly loves him his pork.
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Did he have to throw a fish? He could have gone down to mutual or over to fisheman's terminal. And God I wanted him to crash into Carsberg at Lampreia. Now that would have been fun though maybe Scott wouldn't let him in the door? I liked the geoduck bit. Most of us who are from there have no idea how to handle them. The coffee thing is pretty played out in the media but the fact of the matter is that there's great coffee to be had all over the city. If I were filming it I would have had a shot here, shoot a segment, a shot there, shoot some more. And so on. Until you throw up or have to have some drinks at Zig Zag to calm down again. Or alternately eat some salmon soup at Emmet Watson's while drinking pints of Full Sail. I miss Seattle.
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I've had several excellent dinners at the bar at Tocqueville. There's a small bar menu, but the full restaurant menu and wine list are also available both at the bar itself and a few small banquette tables in the bar area.
I second Tocqueville. What a great restaurant.
A few words on Babbo, only because I really want to love it there. I'm curious to hear others chime in on this and am open to bullshit being called by those with more experience. I know it's a gullet favorite.
The bar area at Babbo is also the waiting area. It is small rammed with people and you usually have to wait for a seat there. The older bald fellow who is the so-called gatekeeper isn't the most pleasant guy to deal with (gives me the impression he couldn't give a damn whether I stay and eat or walk right out the door although I put money on him preferring the latter) and he's consistently either disingenuous about or out of control of the wait times for walk ins. Even when you do eventually get a seat half an hour after he said you would you're likely to get a few elbows thrown at you by large men who watch the food network and usually eat their pasta out of a can but LOOOOOVE Mario and seem to have had quite a few bourbons already. In terms of the food, (and this I think was backed up by Bill Buford in "Heat") the menu reads great and sometimes the execution hits the mark but more often than not the kitchen is struggling to keep up with the dining room and the food suffers for it.
If I could regularly dine at Babbo as a VIP I'd do it, maybe but solo at the bar still there's be the problem of the corral-er-moshpit-er-bar area.
Underappreciated NYC Restaurants
in New York: Dining
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Casa Mono, Unappreciated? Tell that to the people stacking up outside the door waiting to be let in. Tell that to Chef Nusser who spends his weekends cooking with the Adria clan in Spain. I have a friend in Nebraska who doesn't appreciate Casa Mono. And another in Oslo