picaman
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Had a great dinner at L'Astrance on 1/11/11 (my 11th anniversary...): pictures here. Menu L'Astrance, with wine pairings and truffle supplement. Amazing evening.
I was very surprised to see an empty 4-top, though...upstairs on the left as you look toward the door. What's the scoop on this? Do restaurants at this level just hold the table all night? Or could someone have theoretically have shown up at, say, 9:00pm or so and gotten seated without a res?
Jamie
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Going back to Paris January 7-15, and thought I'd revive my old thread with a bit of current research, and ask for suggestions. Here's the original outline of what we were looking for:
average cost per meal at dinner for two people, with maybe a kir to start, the prix fixe meal or entree + plat with one bottle of usually a house/fairly inexpensive wine, dessert then coffee is 100 euros-ish plus or minus 25 euros or so.Let's generally stick to that price range and ignore the effect of inflation.
Here are some currently interesting places I've found researching here and elsewhere:
La Régalade Saint Honoré
123 Rue St Honoré
75001 Paris, France
01 42 21 92 40
Le Chateaubriand
129 av. Parmentier, 11e, Paris
01-43-57-45-95
Restaurant L'Agrume
15 Rue des Fossés Saint-Marcel
75005 Paris, France
01 43 31 86 48
L'Ami Louis
32 rue du Vertbois, 3e, Paris
01-48-87-77-48
La Cordonnerie
20, rue St.-Roch, Paris, 75001
At rue Saint-Honore
01-42-60-17-42
Le Gaigne
12 rue Pecquay, 4e, Paris, 75004
01-44-59-86-72
Ze Kitchen Galerie
4 rue des Grands-Augustins, 6e, Paris
01-44-32-00-32
Chez Grenouille
52 Rue Blanche
75009 Paris, France
01 42 81 34 07
Saturne
17 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires
75002 Paris, France
+33 1 42 60 31 90
L'Agape
51 Rue Jouffroy d'Abbans
75017 Paris, France
01 42 27 20 18
Le Mini-Palais
Grand Palais
Avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt
75008 Paris, France
01 42 56 42 42
Le Concert de Cuisine
14 Rue Nélaton
75015 Paris, France
01 40 58 10 15
Chez Adrienne
37 Rue Arbre Sec
75001 Paris, France
01 42 60 15 78
Moustache
3 Rue Sainte-Beuve
75006 Paris, France
+33 1 42 22 56 65
Edit: forgot these two which looked interesting to my partner Kirk:
Chez Lena et Mimile
32 Rue Tournefort
75005 Paris, France
01 47 07 72 47
Le Bistro-T
17 bis, Rue Campagne Première
75014 Paris, France
+33 1 43 20 79 27
Please feel free to comment on these, add your own suggestions, or provide updates for any of the old original restaurants listed here (2004 list) and here (2006 list).
Many thanks in advance,
Jamie
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No Southside Market sausage? You're killing me! That said, I did buy my fast pass...if you have an AMEX they are on sale now. Haven't missed a block party yet : )
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If you didn't try the beans from Bakers you very seriously missed out. They were very, very smokey with no bitterness at all- and so smooth. I could have eaten many more of these.
At the risk of being libelous or just flat-out incorrect, I could have sworn that these beans tasted like Liquid Smoke. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I hope I am. For me there was that distinct aftertaste.
I really missed Smoki O's - no one had any snoot this year, and it was missed.Another vote for that. It wasn't the same without the snoot.
The stew was kind of odd - really didn't know what to expect. I liked it, my wife and sister didn't care for it at all.I liked the Brunswick stew, though it always tastes better with squirrel
I've been to all of the block parties, and this was by far the most pleasurable. I actually got to eat everything I wanted to without returning on Sunday, which was great for my day-planning but hell on my digestion. Props to Southside brisket and sausage, Big Bob Gibson cole slaw, Mitchell's whole hog, and 17th St. beans.
Shoulda had that Blue Smoke chicken, I guess.
Jamie
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It was taken over about a year ago by a serious young chef out to make his mark and is ably assisted by a knowledgeable and personable front man that knows his wines.
John, if you can, please find out what happened to Jean-Marie Robin. Or is he the "personable front man" to whom Laidback is referring?
It's good news, in any case, if the ship is righting itself. Le Cottage Marcadet is very close to the hotel (Ermitage) where we stay in Paris. Our last visit (April 2005) was markedly worse than our earlier good experiences.
Jamie
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Tough to pick 10 Jamie
Hey--no one said eating in Paris was easy
Thanks for the excellent feedback, John.
For what it's worth, I've eaten at two restaurants on these lists--Le Violon d'Ingres and Au C'Amelot, both of which I thought were excellent. I also ate at Clos des Gourmets (16, av Rapp 75007 01 45 51 75 61) which I liked quite a bit, enough to take home a jar of their incredibly good fennel preserves. So I can't get anywhere close to a list of 10, or even five.
Other favorite restaurants of mine (not on the lists, but I mentioned them earlier in the thread) are Au Petit Tonneau (20, Rue de Surcouf, 75007 01 47 05 09 01) and La Galoche d'Aurillac (41, Rue de Lappe, 75011 01 47 00 77 15).
Jamie
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How long will you be in Paris for?
I'll be in Paris for a week.
Do you want people to give you the ten that they would choose or something along those lines?That's a great idea. How about everyone's top five, culled from both the old list and the new one? Or ten, if you just can't stop.
Jamie
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For the sake of expediency, I omitted mention of anything that was in the original list, even though it might continue to get good notices. That's certainly the case with Violon d'Ingres.
I've eaten there twice and will return on this trip. I always go at lunchtime for the current deal, and end up splurging for the full tasting menu anyway. It's wonderful, and certainly an outstanding value no matter how much you spend there.
Jamie
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Nearly three years ago (wow...time flies...) I compiled the list of restaurants at the beginning of this thread. At the time, I defined the "good value" in the thread's title as:
our average cost per meal at dinner for two people, with maybe a kir to start, the prix fixe meal or entree + plat with one bottle of usually a house/fairly inexpensive wine, dessert then coffee is 100 euros-ish plus or minus 25 euros or so. Very ballpark but every little bit of info helps.Since I'm returning to Paris this January, I thought this would be a good exercise for me to repeat. I've gone through the 2006 threads, and compiled the following list of restaurants that seemed to have "good buzz" from respected sources. I've also added address and contact info.
Please comment on the list, feel free to add anything you think I've missed, and especially let me know what you think should rise to the top, or be deleted for whatever reason.
To account for inflation, I'll pry my wallet open and increase the target to 125 euros plus or minus 25 euros (or so) for a typical dinner for two described above. Less than that, of course, is fine too!
Here's the list:
By arrondisement:
Casaluna 6, rue de Beaujolais 75001 - 01 42 60 05 11
Au Crus de Bourgogne 3 rue Bachaumont Paris 2 - 01 42 33 48 24
Drouant, 16-18, place Gaillon in the 2nd, 01.42.65.15.16
Le Petit Pamphlet 15, r St Gilles 75003 Paris, France - 01 42 71 22 21
Les Enfants Rouges, 90 rue des Archives 75003- 01 48 87 80 61
Le Buisson Ardent 25, r Jussieu 75005 Paris, France 01 43 54 93 02
Les Papilles 30, rue Gay-Lussac - 75005 Paris - Tel : 01 43 25 20 79
Ribouldingue, 10, rue St Julien le Pauvre in the 5th, 01.46.33.98.80
La Bastide Odéon 7 rue Corneille 75006 - 01-43-26-03-65
La Ferrandaise 8, r Vaugirard 75006 Paris, France - 01 43 26 36 36
Le Comptoir 9, Carrefour de l'Odéon 75006 Paris 01 43 29 12 05
Le Timbre 3, rue Sainte-Beuve Paris 6 Tel: 01 45 49 10 40
Maison du Jardin 27, rue de Vaugirard 75006 Paris 01 45 48 22 31
Sensing 19, rue Bréa, 75006, Paris,01 43 27 08 80
Wadja 10, r Grande Chaumière 75006 Paris, France - 01 46 33 02 02
Ze Kitchen Galerie 4, rue des Grands Augustins Paris 6 Tel: 01 44 32 00 32
Gaya 44, rue du Bac 75007 Paris 01 45 44 73 73
Le Florimond 19, Avenue de la Motte Piquet. 75007 Tel. : +(33) 1 45 55 40 38
Les Anges 54 Boulevard de La Tour Maubourg Paris 7 Telephone: 01 47 05 89 86
l’Ami Jean 27, r Malar, 75007 Paris - 01 47 05 86 89
Dominique Bouchet 11 rue Treillard, Paris 8 - 01 45 61 09 46
Le Cou de la Girafe, 7, rue Paul-Baudry in the 8th, 01.56.88.29.55
Maxan 37 rue de Miromesnil in the 8th, 01.42.65.78.60
Senderens 9, Place De La Madeline / 75008 - 01 42 65 22 90
Carte Blanche, 6 rue lamartine, 75009 Paris - 01 48 78 12 20
Chartier 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9e 01-47-70-86-29
Le Charlain 23 rue Clauzel Paris 9 - 01 48 78 74 40
Le Jardinier 5, rue Richer - 9ème Tel : 01-48-24-79-79
Les Zingots 12, rue de la Fidélité 75010 PARIS - 01 47 70 19 34
Terminus Nord 23, rue de Dunkerque 75010 Paris Tél:33.(0)1.42.85.05.15
Astier 44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Phone: 01-43-57-16-35
Bistro Paul Bert in the 11th at 18 Rue Paul Bert (01.43.72.24.01)
Le Temps au Temps 13, r Paul Bert, 75011 Paris - 01 43 79 63 40
Biche au Bois 45, Avenue Ledru Rollin. 75012 Tel. : +(33) 1 43 43 34 38
La Gazzetta 29, r De Cotte 75012 Paris, France - 01 43 47 47 05
l’Avant Gout 26, Rue Bobillot 75013 Paris Tel : 01 53 80 24 00
l’Ourcine 92, r Broca, 75013 Paris - 01 47 07 13 65
Bis de Severo 16 rue des Plantes Paris 14 - Quartier Montparnasse tél. : 01 40 44 73 09
Giufeli 129 rue du Chateau, 75014 Paris 01 43 27 32 56
La Cerisaie 70, bd Edgar Quinet, 75014 Paris - 01 43 20 98 98
Beurre Noisette 68, Rue Vasco de Gama, 75015 Paris - 01 48 56 82 49
Dix vins 57, rue Falguière 75015 Tel: 01-43-20-91-77
Le Troquet 21, rue François-Bonvin, 15th (01.45.66.89.00)
Minzingue 5, pl Etienne Pernet 75015 Paris, France - 01 45 32 48 54
Le Pergolese aka Gaboriaule Pergolese, 40, rue Pergolese in the 16th, 01.45.00.21.40
Goupil le Bistro 4 rue Claude-Debussy 75017 - 01 45 74 83 25
Le Bistral, 80 rue Lemercier in the 17th, 01.42.63.59.61
Le Baratin 3, Rue Jouye-rouve 75020 Paris Téléphone : 08 99 78 21 40
Other areas:
Les Magnolias 48, avenue de Bry, Le Perreux-sur-Marne; (33-1) 48.72.47.43
l’Escarbille, 8, rue de Velizy in Dept. 92 (Meudon @ the Bellevue train stop on the Rambouillet/Mantes line from Montparnasse – 4.10 € RT), 01.45.34.12.03
For reference, here's the original list, copied from the start of the thread:
Fish - 69, rue du Seine (6th)
Aux Lyonnaise - 32, rue St. Marc (2nd)
La Régalade - 49, avenue Jean-Moulin (14th)
Au C'Amelot - 50, rue Amelot (11th)
La Chope de la Marie - 88, rue Ordener (18th)
L'Occitanie - 96, rue Oberkampf (11th)
Clown Bar - 114, rue Amelot (11th)
Jacques Melac - 42, rue Leon-Frot (11th)
L'as du Fallafel - 34, rue du Rosiers (4th)
Cafe Constant - 139, rue Saint-Dominique (7th)
Au Bon Acceuil - 14, rue Monttessuy (7th)
Violon d'Ingres - 135, rue Saint Dominique (7th)
La Fontaine de Mars - 129, rue Saint-Dominique (7th)
Au Dauphin - 167, rue Saint-Honoré (1st)
Chez Michel - 10, Rue de Belzunce (10th)
Philippe Detourbe - 8, rue Nicolas Charlet (15th)
Bistrot du Dôme - 1 rue Delambre (14th)
La Cave de l'Os a Moelle - 181, rue de Lourmel (15th); and
L'Os a Moelle - 3, rue Vasco de Gama (15th)
Le Repaire de Cartouche - 99, rue Amelot (11th)
Aux Negociants - 27, rue Lambert (18th)
Calixte - 64, rue Saint-Louis en L'Ile (Patissierie - 4th)
Benoit - 20, rue Saint-Martin (4th)
Le Pré Verre - 8, rue Thenard (5th)
L'Estrapade - 15, rue de l'Estrapade (5th)
Le Dome due Marais - 53, rue des Francs-Bourgeois (4th)
OK then--fire away! Thanks in advance for your input.
Jamie
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Found this from John Talbott in my browsing this afternoon--can't get much more romantic than a picnic in a beautiful spot. Here's a list of great picnic spots he posted:
Thursday, ParuVendu listed great places in which to have a picnic and listed the:
Esplanade du Champs de Mars in the 7th,
Port de l’Arsenal in the 4th,
Parc de Bercy and
Bois de Vincennes in the 12th,
Cite Universite and
Parc Monsouris in the 14th,
Iles aux Cygnes,
Parc Andre Citroen and
Parc Georges Brassens in the 15th,
Bois de Boulogne in the 16th,
Square de la Butte du Chapeau Rouge,
Parc des Buttes Chaumont and
Parc de la Villette in the 19th.
I'd add Parc Monceau in the 8th.
Jamie
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I'm going back to Paris in January, and am beginning the process of scanning the threads for updates to my restaurant list. This thread caught my eye in the process--I have a feeling that my process will be slow as I respond to this and that
I'll throw in here for Le Train Bleu in the Gare de Lyon--the gorgeous Belle Epoque setting really takes you to another place and time. The food is good enough, and the atmosphere is absolutely spectacular.
Jamie
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Here's a link to my write-up of Le Cottage Marcadet, buried in a stray eGullet thread:
I returned in 2005 and thought it just as good.
Jamie
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Just as a side note... The reason for the pronunciation of the name of the town, Elgin, with a hard "G" is because it is named after the Texas pioneer family that settled there. And the matriarch of the family was a renowned teetotaler. She simply couldn't abide the thought of having 'devil gin' in their name, so she ordered that the name of the town and the family it was named after would be forevermore pronounced with a hard "G.
Excellent story--thanks for the followup. It was a bit grating to hear it mispronounced so much all weekend.
Jamie
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Quite a while back, a member picaman, listed the following, but I think they are way out of your 10 E limit.
I think nearly all of them would be. If it were me, I'd look at the challenge from an "total daily spend" perspective rather than a "cost per meal" perspective. Get a croissant from a bakery for breakfast, a cheap sandwich for dinner, and spend your money on lunches at better places (lunch being less expensive than dinner). I think doing that you could manage quite nicely at a lot of interesting places, including the ones on the list.
I like Sandra Gustafson's "Great Eats" books which list lots of value-oriented finds in Paris. Check it out at the bookstore.
Some day when my boss is out of the office, I need to update that list.
Jamie
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What I found to be totally annoying was the "Gestapo like" tactics of the "guards" by the Bubba Pass lanes. There were 3 in our party, and they would only allow 2 people on the sidewalk. We explained that we were only buying 2 portions- but no- we weren't allowed in together. This was just stupid. We couldn't even eat together because of the crowds.
This was explained pretty clearly to me over the phone when I bought my pass, without prompting from me. They only allow two people per pass into the fast pass area, but those two people can buy as much BBQ as they want to bring out for as many people as they like. You could have eaten together anywhere in the park...they are trying to control the crowds in the fast pass area.
I think this is a sensible approach given the crowds and the logistics.
Jamie
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Two days of stuffing myself with awesome BBQ--I think a Bubba Pass is an incredible value. My partner and I ate at least once each at every booth except Blue Smoke and Dinosaur (I can go there anytime, right?), twice each at Southside Market and Smoki O's, and with the occasional free BBQ dose on Saturday still had enough cash on the card to empty it on Sunday by buying two t-shirts.
And though the fast pass lines were longer and slower than last year, I solved that by eating my last purchase while in line for the next one. Makes for good conversations with your fellow standees
First stop on Saturday was Smoki O's to beg for snoot--turned out she had brought some in spite of the organizer's request to leave it at home (her words). So no begging necessary.
Second stop was next door at RUB, and I have to say I was very, very disappointed. I realize it was 12:05PM on Saturday, and I was one of the first customers, but the brisket was ice cold. And I mean ice cold to the point of congealed surface fat. Ugh. I've never been to the restaurant, but I was pretty horrified at getting that served to me. I'm glad that others apparently fared better.
I'll stick to Southside Market. Elgin (that's a hard "g" by the way, not like the watch company) must be paradise.
Jamie
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So far it seems much more organized than last year. I ordered my Bubba Pass over the phone in the morning and received it in the next day's mail.
Jamie
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Just one very quick point--I had dinner at Fleur de Sel a couple of weeks ago and found it adequate but overpriced; none of the dishes passed my "spontaneous giggle" test. For it to receive a Michelin star while a place like Blue Hill does not is mind-boggling. Keeping in mind my limited experience with many of these restaurants, I still think that such an example highlights the limited utility of this new guide.
Jamie
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If you want good Brazilian without all the hoo-hah, I like Via Brazil on 46th between 5th and 6th quite a lot.
: )
Jamie
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So I don't know that any vendors lost any money; if anything the charities did. However, I know that a whole lot of people left on Sunday with a whole lot of unused money on their cards. I think my mother abandoned $93. So a lot of it probably evened out.
Thanks for the info--now I feel marginally better but at the expense of others' good sense. I had BBQ fever bad! I'm going to have to write a check to charity.
Jamie
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I had pre-bought a Bubba Pass and was there at noon Saturday to get my snoot, having missed out last year. With the computers down, they were indeed giving out free barbecue to all the pass holders for most of that afternoon--we had one of everything and two of most things and didn't have a dime deducted from the card.
Now I am of course very appreciative of getting all this food, and especially appreciative that I could come back Sunday and do it all over again to use up the stored value on the card. But believe me, no one was keeping track of all this free barbecue given out on Saturday.
Does anyone know how (or indeed, if) the vendors were equitably compensated for all this free barbecue? I would hope that either AMEX or the event company or Danny Meyer or someone would be ponying up something fair.
I do not want barbecue guilt on my conscience!
Jamie
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The Bubba Tent? And they make you pay extra for that?
Depends on your viewpoint. I'd have probably spent $100 anyway, so by buying the pass I get $20 in free BBQ plus access to the tent etc.
Jamie
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Also the card can be refilled at the event should you run out of money on it, but still want access to the faster lines, and everything is good for both days.
Now that's good info! I have a feeling I'll be purchasing a lot of BBQ, and not only for myself. Thanks for following up.
Jamie
Empty tables at 3-star restaurants
in France: Dining
Posted
I'm aware the table is yours for the night. We had ours from 8:15 to at least 11:00 : )
To clarify, I was just wondering if they really do just bite the bullet and eat the cost for the night in all instances. After all it is a business. Seems to me a well-dressed personable couple could get lucky occasionally.