[TN: TTG#4 -- Salon, Coche, Jasmin, Pape-Clement]

I've not seen the '59 for sale. Haven't tasted it either. I've just been told of its existence by someone who had tried it.

I have (obviously) seen the '82 and have also seen the '95 for sale.

Wine-searcher currently shows the '82, '89, and '95 available. I don't have Wine-searcher pro. It may show more choices. (Pro is not worth it for me, as I am in a market where almost no vendors are listed.)

Jim

[TN: TTG#4 -- Salon, Coche, Jasmin, Pape-Clement]

The Joly moëlleux is produced in very few vintages. The only ones I've seen previously are the 1995 and the 1959.

There are several stories about why these wines exist. I have no idea which is true.

a) Accidental -- Stuck fermentation

b) Accidental -- Overripeness (leading to either (i) decision to vinify sweet to maintain some balance or (ii) stuck fermentation)

c) Intentional -- Siezing opportunity (but, if so, why only in these years)

A while back, I ran into an '82 Coulée de Serrant labeled as "moëlleux" with a small white stick-on label. Out of curiosity, I picked it up. First, I had never seen it before and had heard that it was only produced in '59 and '95, so I was curious. Second, '82 seemed like an odd year to decide to do a sweet bottling.

I decided to open it for an offline Friday night, hence the note above. As you will see, one of my comments was that I thought it was much more like a demi-sec than a moëlleux.

Today I dug up the original receipt for the purchase. When the UPC was scanned at purchase, the store's inventory system thought it was a demi-sec and that is what was printed on my receipt.

Whatever the background, I won't complain because I was pleased with the wine. But I am curious what the facts are.

Jim

[TN: '00 Breton Chinon Les Picasses]

• 2000 Catherine et Pierre Breton Chinon Les Picasses - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon (1/28/2006)
  Tasted over the course of three nights. Still a deep and pretty purple straight through to the the rim. On the first night, the nose has a heavy green element that combines with mineral and cassis to make a very typical but lean Chinon. On the palate, gentle tannins and medium concentration with a lighter green element, plus cassis and a little berry, all kept bright with good acid. On the medium-short finish, a little mineral and a touch of tobacco come out. On day two, this has picked up a little body and the greenness has receded some. Tobacco has picked up a little and shown up on the nose. On night three, a huge difference. Suddenly there is lovely sweet raspberry fruit on the nose. The nose has also picked up much more tobacco and the greenness has turned almost entirely to a pleasant minty herb character. Much more mid-palate depth, with juicy raspberry and cassis as well as a nice dose of graphite that also carries through to the finish. This seems twice the size and depth of the first night, but still has enough acid and mineral to be completely refreshing. I'll buy more, but I'll either open a day or so ahead of time or give it a few years to rest.
  

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: TTG#4 -- Salon, Coche, Jasmin, Pape-Clement]

TTG#4 (SALON, COCHE, JASMIN, PAPE CLEMENT, HSS, YQUEM, JOLY...) - Rico's Kitchen (1/27/2006)

The Tokyo Tasting Group gathered Friday night for its fourth event at Rico's Kitchen in Ebisu. The restaurant did a very nice job of preparing a menu to go with the wines and also with the wine service. As this is just around the corner from my house and office, I'll have to visit again. There were only six of us this time and the theme was a simple bring what you want.

I'm getting senile as I'm having a tough time reassembling the food and wine lineup. Good notes on the wines, but meager on what we ate. Somewhere I'm missing the dish with the giant kaibashira (khi-chogae in Korean, can't remember the species name in Japanese). Apologies for the scrambling.

Welcome Champers

While we all settled and for the first part of a plate of assorted sushi/sashimi/bites, including an oyster, kohada sushi, and uni.

• 1983 Salon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil - France, Champagne, Côte des Blancs, Champagne
  Mature old-gold color with mousse that is still very fine but dissipates quickly. On the nose, begins with a first whiff of very ripe apples that are browning, followed by that Salon trademark of sweet lemon cream. Also shows rich toasted biscuits and a bit of roasted nut. With time, a very maderized sherry element becomes more and more prominent. The palate is a surprise as the wine starts out still taut and tart. With time it settles into a great creamy texture with choco-mocha notes and a nutmeg/cinnamon spice on the finish. Never shows much fruit on the palate. Is recognizably Salon with that great Salon acidity and some trademark notes, but not up to the normal standard. Enjoyable but not fully on form
  

Courtesy Buy from the List

With the last of the amuse and with a Chinese crab soup. The Rochioli was a politeness buy from the list as a thanks to the restaurant for acommodating us. A small gesture for much greater kindness.

• 2004 J. Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc Estate Grown - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
  Light and bright pale yellow. Nose shows grass, grapefruit and a nice sweet depth. It may have been power of suggestion, but I thought I detected a bit of a musky-briny seashell/mineral element as well. This grows in intensity as it sits in the glass, but doesn’t really change in character. On the palate, a surprising degree of body along with melon fruit and a touch of balancing acidity. Medium finish. I’m not a big Cali sauv blanc fan, but this is nice. It was a bit out-of-place in this lineup and suffered for that, but I would be very happy to run into it in most circumstances. I'm not buying it for home, but definitely a restaurant wine list option with fresh seafood.
  

What a Step Up

With kuromutsu in a suppon risotto. But mostly, blissfully, alone. I love food with wine and that is the way I almost always consume it, but this one was happy to be savored on its own. I'm very much on the fence as to whether there was a small degree of advanced age here. It was in great shape, but just left a sneaking impression that it may have moved along a little faster than it should. Is the premature oxidation problem an analog problem? Or is it binary?

• 1996 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
  Deep gold color with an enticing movement in the glass; when swirled the wine moves just that tiny bit slower than normal, hinting at real concentration and building real anticipation. First sniff shows some candied/brulée/butterscotch elements, but otherwise there is nothing to indicate any advanced age. There is a lot of nutty, deep, sweet oak but it has integrated well enough at this point that it does not obscure the well-delineated apple, lemon, and even peach fruit. Neither does it block the hint of granite-like mineral on the nose. This just has a tremendous depth of sweetness on the nose, but it never becomes tiring. On the palate, this has a level of concentration and richness that threatens to make dessert wines seem watery. However, that richness is lifted up by good acid and clean freshly sliced fruit. The minerals are much stronger here than on the nose and continue from mid-palate through very long finish, where there is also a lovely floral element. Great size and concentration, stays fresh with good acid and lively fruit, oak never dominates (though I would ideally prefer a bit less of it), minerals and flowers and fruits and such are all there. Only one worry: While there are no oxidation flaws, this should not seem so integrated, developed, and mature at ten years old. Lovely drinking and delicious today, but I have this nagging nervousness about whether it will develop any more and how long it will last. Will we begin to find more of a middle ground on the early oxidation problem? Where some wines are maturing too fast but are still in good shape at this point?
  

And Now to a Red

With walnut, foie gras and duck confit rolled in cabbage and served in a mushroom sauce.

• 1990 Domaine Jasmin Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
  Lightish purple with pinkish tinges at the rim. First impression from the nose is the feminine floral element, then there is a punch of masculine substance with dusty iron. This one-two is followed by sweet berry, a very little hint of meat, and sweet cured tobacco. On the palate, an intriguing tension with a sense of lightness on entry and acid brightness opposed to a bit of remaining tannin in the front of the mouth and deep but pretty dust, meat, and plum that grows as the wine moves through the mouth. On the persistent finish, there is a hint of very light chocolate and spice and a resurgence of the iron. While the flavors and scents were appealing, the real measure of the wine was its tension and balance. It showed the typical Jasmin aspects of dancing acid brightness and floral elegance, but also picked up an element of the ripeness and fruit depth of the vintage. There is the first small hint that, as the youthful sweetness of some of the fruit fades, the iron dust will start to turn to a bit of muddiness especially on the finish. To be safe, drink now while at peak. Probably my favorite producer of Côte-Rôtie and very well priced compared to bigger names.
  

The Bigger Reds

With a simple piece of wagyu.

• 1988 Château Pape Clément - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
  Surprisingly young looking, with a dark ruby/bright purple core, almost solid to the rim. The nose is rich and smooth with ripe cassis, graphite, and a little plummy/earthy Graves note. With time, the fruit remains and earthiness passes over to tobacco. On the palate, there is a little initial tannin, but this is overwhelmingly, pleasantly, and surprisingly smooth and easy. More of the plum and cassis fruit expands in a nicely full mid-palate. With time, the tannins grow but always remain genteel. Acid is there to provide balance and a real sense of lively youth. The finish shows some iron, sweet fruit, and tobacco. Very easy and sexy for the vintage but also well-balanced with acid. Seems bright and lively but has reached an elegant drinkability that seems best of class for a sometimes rough and slow-moving vintage. Only complaint would be that this shows slightly less earthiness and brick than I normally seek from Graves. No sense of the green notes that others have sometimes found.
  
• 2000 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stag's Leap District
  Deep and dark purple, still looking very primary. Nose shows a richness of dark blackberry and very pure cassis fruit wrapped in some vanilla-oak sweetness. With a little more time, this gets into a little bit of choco-coffee spice. On the palate, this is voluptuous with a sweet tannin entry and a load of graphite-accented berries expanding in the mid-palate. Along the way, there is blueberry, blackberry, raspberry – all sweet and delicious but somehow shy of jammy or cloying. Never notice any acid or greenness, but something must be going on underneath to keep this in balance. Tannin and spice come out again on a long and sweetly concentrated finish. A type of wine I very seldom drink and one I’d have a hard time matching with the food I eat. However, this is undeniably delicious in a lip smacking way and a good indicator of why I sometimes prefer “off” vintage wines. Any more ripeness or fruit stuffed into this package might just be too much of a good thing. Matt Kramer describes SLD in general and Shafer SLD/HSS in particular as having a “corseted voluptuosity”. He said it better than I ever could. Great fun to drink.
  

Dessert Time

With cheeses and such. I never thought the moëlleux existed for the '82 vintage, but there it was in front of my eyes. In fact, much more like a sweetish demi-sec than a moëlleux. Like all things with Joly, just when you think you know the facts you learn something new.

• 1982 Nicolas Joly Savennières-Coulée de Serrant Moëlleux Clos de la Coulée de Serrant - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant
  Yellow tending toward gold, but decidedly lighter than the Yquem. Nose shows a hint of oxidation and leesiness that is somewhat typical of the estate, as well as some ripe fig and apricot fruit and a lacing of honey. The palate has a little viscosity and a little sweetness, but this comes across much more in the demi-sec range than the moëlleux, especially next to the ’01 Yquem. Good bracing acidity and an incredible concentration of liquid extract of minerals. Medium finish with no discernable botrytis. From a lesser year and a controversial producer, there are many people this won’t please but I like it. Distinctive, absolutely of its place, and built for food (cheese especially). Another great shot across the bow of “vintage chart mentality”™ (Kermit Lynch). Need to taste it again without such a stunner in the glass next to it. Joly is a bit like Ponsot, who is a bit like the girl with the curl in the middle of her forehead. When she is good, she is very very good, but when she bad, she is horrid. In this case, we caught Joly’s good side.
  
• 2001 Château d'Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  Attractive deep and concentrated yellow. Nose is absolutely bursting with honey, citrus, tropical fruit, stone fruit, brulée, sweet cream. Palate shows all of this and more in an amazingly delineated, detailed, balanced, and quite structured form. How many flavors or aromas are there? Well, how long do you have to sit with it? Every few minutes represents a shifting and swirling of accent that reveals something new. Even the long and concentrated finish evolves as it fades away ever so slowly. Enough conventional notewriting. This is simply too young and intense and packed with goodness to describe that way. This is like a hand grenade with all the chemistry and power and material to overwhelm a large area condensed inside a compact package. However, while the fuse on the grenade lasts ten seconds or less, the fuse on this Yquem is bound to last seventy-five to a hundred years or more. Like a Noah’s Ark of wine, it’s got two of everything. There go the lemons, and the limes, and the apricots… You get the point. Monumental wine with amazing balance and complexity. Believe the hype.
  

Just Can't Quit

In the name of symmetry.

• 1979 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne
  Deepening gold with a surprisingly lively and persistent mousse of medium fine bead. On the nose, there is not much maderization or sherry, but there is that advanced dry honey note that signals full maturity or a bit more. Also, shows baked ripe apples, mushrooms, and brie. In the young D-V wines, I always find a very Chardonnay/Burg-like nose. I find the same here, but just barely peeking out from behind the mature Champagne notes. On the palate, the mousse shows more life than expected and there is more of the ripe browned apple, allied with a bit of mineral. All of this turns to dry honey on the finish. A bit tired and a bit past it and a bit devoid of acid, but still a delicious sip for those who like the Vallois style and who like their Champagne mature.
  

Good company, good food, good drinking. Highlights for me were the absolute concentration and purity of the Coche and the Yquem, the balance of ripeness and elegance of the Jasmin, and the hedonistic fun of the HSS. Also, the Pape Clement threw in a damn smooth showing for an '88. If it had a little bit more baked earth, it would be da bomb. The Joly did a great job of representing '82 Loire, but it was lost in more demonstrative company. By all reports, the '79 Diebolt-Vallois is the least of the recently released trio of '76/'79/'85 Vallois wines (and the most mature), but it was good enough that I'm going to have to pick up some of the others.

Posted from CellarTracker

[WTN: Catching Up]

Brad:

Thanks for the notes.

Pierre Peters doesn't get imported to Japan, so I never run into it here (and have never seen it elsewhere around Asia). It is on my list of things I really want to find a chance to taste when I am next back in the States.

Montille is one of my favorite producers. I haven't had any of the '98s, but I can imagine this needed a lot of time. My experience with '98 reds is that they have been very tough and tight and need the time. Then again, for whatever reason, most of the '98s I've tasted have been from the Cotes de Nuits (almost all Chambolle and Morey wines), so I can't speak directly to '98 Volnays. Based on producer, however, I'd probably be thinking 7-10 years before this was on form.

'98 whites, however, have seemed very forward.

In any case, thanks very much for the notes and the datapoint on the Montille.

Jim

[American Sparkling Wines: as good as champagne?]

John:

Thanks for the kind words about my post, but you and I simply disagree. I would not say that there is too much focus on terroir these days but too little. Then again, there are wines made in all styles and as long as there's plenty around for all sorts these kind of disagreements are nothing but fun differences.

I do agree that there are plenty of single vineyard products that add nothing over (or even lose versus) blends. If wines are not made in a transparent style (or without style, as if that were really possible) then vineyard designation adds nothing. However, if the wines are transparent I will always opt for more specific over less.

In terms of Champagne, I think that place can be even more important. For years we've all accepted the marketing push that the glory of Champagne is blending. There is no question there are master blenders and I enjoy some of the blended wines as much as the next guy, but to me there is nothing more exciting than a Champagne that comes from a more delimited area and that speaks clearly of its place. And the fact is that most of these place-specific wines come at a fraction of the price of any blended wines that can approach their quality. There is not just romance, quality and place definition in the grower wines; there is generally also great value.

Now I don't expect you to agree with me on any of this. And there's no reason you should. But for me, wine is primarily an agricultural and cutural product that speaks of the earth and of the people that are still closest to it and of the foods that come naturally from the earth and local sea. The closer the wine remains to the specific bit of earth and the individual person who grew it (not made it) and to the way his family before him grew it, the more I enjoy it. In essence, that is the terroir/grower manifesto.

I can appreciate and even be wowed by a Krug MV or a Bolly RD, but they will never speak to me and make my eyes tear up the way a much simpler but place-specific grower wine will.

To each his own. And the diversity that lets each drink and savor his own is the real glory of wine!

In vino veritas,

Jim

[TN: 61/82 Bordeaux (5 pairs, plus other stuff)]

61/82 BORDEAUX DINNER - Luxor in Marunouchi (1/20/2006)

Cathryn and I, part of a group gathered by a friend both generous and inspired, had the pleasure of drinking through a little Champagne, a little white wine, a little dessert wine, and ten stellar Bordeaux from two great vintages.

The '82s were opened at 6PM and the '61s a little before 7PM. The St. Julien flight was served around 8:30 or a little later, with the other two red flights following at 45 minute to 1 hour intervals. There were only seven of us, so there was plenty of wine to go back to late in the evening. One of the pleasures was to be able to watch these wines evolve over the course of the evening, though some of them probably could have used another six or eight hours to be at their best. It is also enlightening to drink these wines with a bit of context provided by their older/younger siblings and their first and second cousins of the same age.

Champagne to Start

With conversation and an amuse plate including house-made pancetta, olives, grissini wrapped in mortadella, and a seafood salad in endive with oscietra.

• 1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque - France, Champagne
  Bright gold with a very fine bead trickling to the top of the glass in beautiful ribbons. Clean autolysed yeast, toast, crisp apple and very little pinot sweetness on initial nose. The texture on the palate is much more winey and much less pointal DP mousse than the regular ’90. Extremely clean wine, good acid. Time brings out honey on the nose, along with musky lemon and sweet white flowers. Time also turns the texture much more creamy, with muscley, straightforward mouthwatering fruit. A strong peach element grows on the finish. Strong, balanced, complex, still fresh, but somehow more advanced and less of a wine in totality than its regularly disgorged and released sibling.
  

The Obligatory One (Make That Two!) White Wine(s)

With steamed king crab dressed with red pepper coulis. When it became clear that the Valentini would perform according to type and that the crab would have long since decomposed or been eaten before it was ready, the restaurant brought out an alternate.

• 1995 Azienda Agricola Valentini Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
  Pretty gold with greenish flashes and a bit of visible spritz. Extremely reduced, showing a deep chemical element and a dominant Lemon Pledge © note. Put aside for hours, a substitute white is poured. After several hours, it is just beginning to come out of its reductive state to offer winey funk on the nose with an unidentifiable leesy/mushroomy nose that is nonetheless appealing (to me). Others say sour milk or sweatsocks, but I like it and am intrigued. Even with over three hours in the glass, it never completely comes around, but it does show major flinty mineral and flowers on top of bass tone fruit and cheese/lees notes. On the palate, good acid balanced with great depth and richness and a bit of salty freshness that grows as the evening goes on. Again, never completely comes around but is still on the growth curve when it sings with the cheese. Not very popular around the table, it definitely needs splash decanting and four hours to get a fair showing.
  
• 2004 St. Michael-Eppan Sauvignon Blanc Sanct Valentin - Italy, Alto Adige
  Light and young looking. Aggressive grass/herb, a bit of cat pee, tart green berries. Absolutely typical Loire sauv blanc nose but just a little bigger and riper, especially when touches of light peach and lychee come out then fade away then come back again, tipping the likely guesses toward Italy. (I missed by guessing a little too far south -- Friuli sauv blanc.) Palate has just enough acid to counter the fruit that is much riper and more tropical than on the nose. There is very ripe grapefruit and sweet peach on the finish. Thoroughly enjoyable, but better on the nose than the palate. If it were a notch or two more restrained on the palate, it would be a real winner.
  

St. Juliens

With porcini mushroom tagliatelle.

• 1961 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  Color more youthful than expected. Core almost the same as the ’82, but rim has more orange/pink. Initial nose shows an almost Graves-like character of blood/iron and earth but is otherwise closed. Very quickly opens into a complex of forest floor, more earth, tobacco, and an elegant sweet lilting center of cassis and blackberry. On the palate, acid manages to make sweet fruit center light and deft without being dilute – beautiful St. Julien delicacy. Beautifully elegant and still picking up richness after an hour as a richer, more plummy extract note comes out on the nose.
  
• 1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  Dense and still pretty darn dark – nearly solid to rim. Nose shows very forward immediate balsamic depth and sweetness with a kicker of black pepper. This then settled into cedar, super-ripe plum, deep currant and very fragrant, light-grained wood. One person suggested sandalwood. On the palate, much more elegant, particularly on the top of the palate. Brought to mind the Hugh Johnson phrase that it “goes down like water”. Lovely, classic and expanding finish. Remained very dense and sweet but picked up a level of classic elegance that was nowhere to be seen when first poured. What movement and complexity!
  
• 1961 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  Lightest color of the four by a hair, but not deteriorating at all. Also fairly lean and elegant, but more generous than the Ducru to start and without the iron backbone. Copybook St. Julien, with cassis, licorice, cedar, gently veiled tannins. Picks up weight with time, especially on the nose, adding a lovely sweetness and bit of minty spice. Palate has a classic mineral/loam/earth element and sweetish cassis/berry fruit. In the end, beautiful and elegant, but without as much weight, concentration, and texture behind it as the Ducru. Not dilute but not as big or distinctive a wine. Its virtue is its typicity (and that’s okay with me).
  
• 1982 Château Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
  Color similar to the Ducru ’82, but just a little thinner at the rim. Nose immediately shows the Cordier funky horse. This abates and then comes back from time to time. It is persistent but not initially obtrusive. In its lighter moments, it still leaves a strong layer of leaves and mushrooms over fruit and tar. In time, I’m believing that the fruit is, in fact, a bit obscured (at least on the nose). This is still tight and tannic, the toughest of the four St. Juliens, with a palate emphasizing dust and iron, black cherry and coffee. An impressive wine that was perhaps a little flawed on the nose and a fair bit tougher and more rustic than the others.
  

Paulliacs

With a deliciously tender slice of filet that I cannot for the life of me remember how it was prepared. I think I was transported by the Latour to another place.

• 1961 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Lighter colored in all respects than the other wines of this flight and the previous. Nose starts lean and cedary, but almost immediately opens into Hakone blueberry and honey jam. This is followed by a flash of iodine and macerated raspberries, along with the more typical and classic CS notes. On the palate, it shows an intriguing note of washed rind cheese, along with dominant ripe plum and dark berry fruit plus earth. Mid-palate really has a lovely meaty depth and the finish shows a little kick of iron. Overall, there is a great remaining richness. If the ’61 Ducru was elegant with a sneaky concentration/depth/richness, then this was concentrated/deep/rich with a sneaky elegance and suavity.
  
• 1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Lighter than the young Latour – similar to the ’61 Latour in color, though a little more solid. A greenish stem note begins the nose – not green like CF ivy leaves or bell pepper, but sappy young green – not an unpleasant flaw but not exactly typical. This does fade away and leaves solid cedar and cassis notes with strong and distinct highlights of duck blood and sweet wild berry syrup, plus a little low volume truffly earth. There is green on the palate as well, but again not hard or tart or offensively herbaceous. The green shows more as cheek coating tannins that manage to be a bit wild and rough but lovely and lush in texture at the same time. Until a late night revisit and a rereading of my notes, my summary was “in good shape, almost true to type, but somehow a little odd and not my favorite wine, even as a Loire CF fan”. There was never any question that this is a stunning and complex wine, just one of how much I personally liked it. After a late night last taste combined with a romantic rereading of my notes, the odd edges are really growing on me. Would love to taste again in a smaller cohort where I can really spend an evening with it.
  
• 1961 Château Latour - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Strong deep color, almost solid throughout – a harbinger of youthfulness to come on nose and palate. Beautiful but tightly wound initial nose of pure cassis, graphite, and faint vanillin. As it opens up, it blossoms into ripe fruit, coffee, and Moroccan spice. The palate also has a prominent streak of graphite throughout, with sweet velvety cassis and berry in front and lovely hints of cinnamon on the finish. Beyond the lushness of the initial entry, this shows like a laser beam – a thin defined line – on the mid-palate and finish until it has passed over an hour in the glass. Only then does it begin to show its real strength and weight as it expands to fill the mid-palate with roasted coffee, ripe fruit and chocolate, all of a body and richness that is impressive but never clumsy. The finish is misnamed as it just won’t finish, evolving from the cinnamon into tobacco with both supported by more sweet fruit. I’m three years younger than the wine, but it almost certainly has more years left than I do.
  
• 1982 Château Latour - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
  Deep and young colored. The nose is incredibly tight and needs vigorous aeration, to move beyond the slightly aromatic cigarbox and pencil stage, but it then manages to show more cedar, super-ripe cassis, peat and compost, and tobacco. Similarly young on the palate, it is very tannic in the front of the mouth but shows a nice, dense, full fruit in the mid-palate and an amazingly concentrated finish. As it opens up some, a rich sweetness begins to mask the substantial tannin up front and the mid-palate starts to show licorice and candied cranberry while a hint of nutty, bacony cheese quiche shows up on the finish. The fruit sweetness is balanced by a nice degree of acid, especially for the vintage. Still a baby, this displays a terrific balance of fruit, tannin, and acid that promises so much more to come. This still has a lot more hill to climb but is a pleasure to drink now.
  

Graves (as it was known then)

With large piece of dry aged venison stewed in red wine and garnished with black truffle.

• 1961 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
  Much lighter than any of the Medocs but not in any unhealthy way. On the nose, dusty, clay-like earth and huge cedar and tobacco combined with the essence of small ripe tightly concentrated berries. Time brings out this wonderfully sweet note of grilled and candied nuts. The two strongest impressions from the palate are of iron-bathed plums and of the most elegant acid keeping this concentrated wine lively and light. There is also meat extract making a marriage-worthy gamy combination with the venison. On the long finish, earth and fruit are joined by this lingering note of slightly bloody organ meat. I’m always amazed at how something can be so large and yet dance so deftly at the same time. Every ounce a proud representative of Graves, this still has something of what I most love from Hermitage. If I could only drink one wine from the night again, it would be this. Maybe not better than the others, but perfectly matched to my palate and what I like to eat with such wines.
  
• 1982 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
  Like the ’61, this is lighter than its peers with some rust orange at the edge. Among the expected earth and dust and baked plum and cassis fruit, the nose shows a distinctive green element – of green tea or coffee beans or tobacco. In other words, not leaves or stems, but something we are more accustomed to seeing in a softened, fermented state rather than a raw state. On the palate, this shows a lot of dusty, iron-tinged tannin balanced by a tremendous mid-palate glycerin sweetness. It is not hot at all, but shows more alcohol body than any other wine. Slurping vigorously brings out lightly stewed red fruit and some earthy spice. At this point, this is good and interesting, but disappointing. Revisited much later, the green element seems more exotic and less jarring. The palate has picked up a great black fruit depth that makes a major difference. The last sip of this was the best by far; this one needs a lot of air to show well.
  

Dessert Wine and Revisiting the Rest

With a small assortment of cheeses.

• 1996 Castello della Sala (Antinori) Muffato della Sala Umbria IGT - Italy, Umbria, Umbria IGT
  Good viscosity and an enticing golden richness. The nose seems to show a healthy bit of botrytis along with lemon and apricot sweetness, with some spiciness growing in the glass. With orange blossom honey on the palate, it is relatively simple but nicely concentrated and gives an odd but pleasing impression of salty cleanliness. This finishes rather intensely with persistent fruit and a hint of the lemon cream I often get from Sauternes, but also with a bit of the nutty character present in many a vin santo. Wish I knew what the blend was! Just looked it up and it is part Sauvignon Blanc and part Grechetto and Drupeggio as used in Orvieto. Makes sense to me. This is made by Antinori’s Umbrian outpost. Wonder if there is a smaller producer version, as this is pretty tasty innovation.
  

What a great evening. New people to meet, amazing wines, delicious food, and truly graceful and gracious wine service from Luxor. I will certainly go back again and would definitely consider it for a future wine dinner.

With the exception of the Valentini that was late to the party and will always offend some and the younger Gruaud that may have been a little flawed, all wines showed very well. The '82s had been in one good cellar since release, but none of us are old enough to have had the '61s from release. Nonetheless, they were in fantastic condition.

I've always said that I don't entirely get Bordeaux (as I'm sure my notes show). I certainly like it, but just don't feel like I entirely get it. After this night (and a recent '82 Lafleur), I'm damn sure encouraged to try a little harder! I'm also reminded that Gravner, Valentini, and the like need to be part of my preaching kit when I go about proselytizing my friends as to the virtues of distinctive wine.

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: HK Trip (Various Wines)]

Nice selection of wines. I was pleasantly suprised at the wine selection that is offered at the City Super in the IFC Mall. Did you buy all these wines at Watson's....when I visted one of their shops I was somewhat disappointed by the depth of seelctions (plenty of Bordeaux) but not alot of Italian or Spanish. Nice post and descriptions by the way.

Cheers,

Stephen

Vancouver

←

Thanks for the kind words.

I was in the IFC Mall at one point, but didn't get to City Super.

Only the 2 Champers and the Lafarge came from Watsons. Everything else was off a restaurant or wine bar list.

My very few wine shop visits in HK indicated pricing that is higher than Tokyo and a strong brand name and Bordeaux focus. Anything off the beaten path does not seem to appear at retail. I was drinking with a fellow from HK here in Tokyo last night and he confirmed that impression. Said I was lucky to find the Lafarge, as Burg there is more oriented toward negoc and super-domain wines.

I go to HK frequently, but almost never buy wine at retail there so don't really know how representative my sampling was.

Jim

[TN: HK Trip (Various Wines)]

HONG KONG TRAVELS - Around HK (1/9/2006-1/19/2006)

Had to make a rather extended trip to HK for business. I love all varieties of Chinese food, but don't find wine to be my favorite accompaniment, so it was mostly beer and tea. However, Cathryn and the kids came in for the weekend adn we saw old friends. Additionally, one dinner was Italian so there was a drop of wine then.

Cathryn Arrives

Cathryn and the kids came in late on Friday night, so I had a bottle of Champagne ready. I ran straight back to the room from a meeting, so was limited to whatever was cold at Watson's in Pacific Place. Picked up this wine and two for the next afternoon. Consumed with random snacks and a relaxing pleasure of being off the plane, finished with meetings, and together again.

• N.V. Gosset Champagne Brut Excellence - France, Champagne (1/13/2006)
  Slightly deeper than normal goldish-yellow with a larger bead and lower volume of mousse than expected. For a moment I worried about storage, but the nose was fresh with very light berryish and citrus fruit and a strong yeasty character. Palate was perhaps a bit heavy (not oxydised, just heavy) with the same fruit and more yeast. Perhaps the heaviness came from the fact that the mousse was not very lively. Good concentration, appealing flavors, broad shoulders, but somehow just lacked any excitement.
  

Seeing Jonathan and Samantha the Next Day

Went to wander through HK Park and have dim sum with Jonathan, Samantha and kids. Then, after the girls shopped, we gathered in the hotel for more random snacks and some wine. Sam is a sucker for Champagne and I'm drawing Jonathan to the dark side (i.e., Bourgogne).

• N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne (1/14/2006)
  The lightest and loveliest salmon-pink with a vigorous and enticing mousse of minute bubbles. When first opened, the nose is more about the white tree fruit and light citrus elements. With a little time, clear strawberry and light raspberry come out in a puff of fruit and floral sweetness. The sweet floral element settles down, but the berry fruit persists nicely. On the palate, a tremendous balanced tension is the main impression (fine pointal bubbles but still a creaminess; sweet red fruit but still a brightness and deftness that makes it seem almost weightless). Finishing with good concentration, this is a real pleasure. Revisited two days later (largely flat), the wine displays a greater degree of real sweetness than expected, but is still balanced by very nice acidity and has a terrific purity of fruit.
  
• 2000 Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay (1/14/2006)
  Bright Burgundy color, not really thinning. When first opened, shows typical tart cherry and hints of berry, along with some wet earth and leaves. Other than that, shut up very tight. On the palate, a lot of concentration and depth from the beginning. Good acid and red fruit flavors with perhaps a tad of overripe darker fruit. Nice balance and structure but, again, very much closed. The long and nicely expanding finish shows there’s a lot hiding, especially for the vintage. Revisited several times over the next three days, the wine loses freshness (as expected) but holds together and develops tremendously well. Over time, it adds deep and ripe plum fruit, meat extract, soy, sizzled pork fat, and a deep dark floral scent that is captivating. Unlike most ‘00s, this is not even close to ready. Keep your hands off, because there is a lot to come in another five or more years. Only criticism is perhaps a slightly atypical note from the meatiness. Still, this is a stellar effort.
  

A Drink Before Dinner

Donald and I shared a house in university. He and Kelly had their first date the same night and to the same event as Cathryn and I did (all the way back in Feb '87). Their son Peyton is our godchild. We're fortunate that they live in HK so they're fairly close. Excited to see them, we gathered for a drink at a new wine bar opened by their friends. An all Aussie list full of names unknown to me, so I was at a bit of a loss but chose...

• 2004 Willow Bridge Estate Firefly - Australia, Western Australia, Geographe (1/14/2006)
  Single glass in a wine bar before dinner at M on the Fringe. Softish white-yellow typical of sem-sauv blends. Nose has a slight bit of waxiness to it, but seems mostly to favor the ripe sauvignon blanc. Somewhat tart green berries, very ripe citrus, just a little grassiness. Palate is rich and maybe just a tad hot, but is kept just on the right side of the line by decent minerality and the slightly herbaceous edge to the ripe finish. Falls right between the styles I’d choose (either full on grassy/pissy sauv blanc or a softer/riper wine that features more of the semillon texture), but pleasant enough for a glass or two. Given that the publicly stated goals of the young winery are to be easy and forward (and easy to market) and to achieve large production in a short timeframe, this is a pretty good effort. This is one of those wines that I’d be happy to run into at a cocktail party or similar, but wouldn’t buy for home.
  

Regrouping for Dinner

Jonathan and Sam, Don and Kelly, Cathryn and I, and another couple went to M@ the Fringe for dinner. A mix of foods that are impossible to match perfectly, but we wound up doing pretty well with...

• 2003 Carpineto Vernaccia di San Gimignano - Italy, Tuscany, San Gimignano, Vernaccia di San Gimignano (1/14/2006)
  Light white-gold color with appealing flashes of yellow. Looked clean and refreshing. On the nose, primarily floral with a little cool mineral character. Nicely subdued and sandwiched in was simple and fresh apple fruit. On the palate, incredibly fresh and pleasantly bracing, but with only a little acid. Freshness came from clean and crisp fruit plus an incredible dose of minerality. With every sip, there was growing sensation of clean and cold water that had been burbling for years through a column of fine granite. If I taught wine tasting, I would use this wine to demonstrate minerality. A little more sweet flower perfume lightens up the finish. My second experience with Carpineto and my second good one (first was with the ’90 CCR).
  
• 2002 Palliser Estate Pinot Noir - New Zealand, North Island, Wairarapa, Martinborough (1/14/2006)
  Clear cherry color. Nose gives an immediate whiff of sweet spicy oak. Underneath is bright cherry and berry fruit along with some earthy/mushroomy funkiness. On the palate, the fruit provides a nice combination of sappiness/richness/ripeness with a level of deftness and freshness that is very pleasing, especially combined with a bit of mineral. Too bad that it feels like one has to chew a tree to get to it. Maybe this will integrate with time, but somehow I doubt it. That’s a shame, because the underlying material seems to be good stuff. Damn busybody winemakers!
  
• 2001 Château du Cros - France, Bordeaux, Entre-Deux-Mers, Loupiac (1/14/2006)
  Gold not yellow, but still relatively bright for a botrytised sweetie. And, with the first whiff, it does prove to have a very nice dose of botrytis. Under that bracing initial zing is pretty rich peach/apricot fruit and some creamy orange. This wine doesn’t have tremendous size or complexity, as the palate pretty much follows the nose, but it does have good concentrated fruit, a nice creamy texture, and that great botrytis-honey prickle on the finish. This could easily be mistaken for a good second-tier Barsac. Don’t know how it will age, but I’ll buy some to sock away (and more to drink now) if I see it at retail. 2001 vintage in the region does seem to be the rising tide that lifts all ships.
  

Farewell to My Team

Several members of my team had also been in town from other locations in Asia, so I took them to dinner before they left. They chose Italian. Food was pretty good, but list was limited and we wound up with...

• 2000 Cantina di Soave Valpolicella Superiore Rocca Sveva Ripasso - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Superiore (1/17/2006)
  Middle red color. Typical, middle-sized nose of cherries, a little licorice, and some fresh tanned leather. On the palate, middle-weight with good balance of a bit of brightness, some cherry and slightly deeper berry, and a hint of nuts on the middle-length finish. Lot’s of “middle” here, no? Well, that’s what this is – a correct, standard cantina sociale wine that does its job well, but nothing more. Simple Valpo flavors intensified a little by the ripasso treatment. Not exciting, but a good safe order in a restaurant with a very limited wine list. I’m always happy to find a wine that I wouldn’t buy for home, but that can be a way out when the list gets difficult.
  

Lafarge shines as always. The Loupiac and the Carpineto Vernaccia were great surprises (and made me look smarter than I really am). The Billecart was on form. Other than that, the highlight of the week was Tiucheow, Hunan, Szechuan, Cantonese, Shanghainese food and seeing old friends.

Posted from CellarTracker

[American Sparkling Wines: as good as champagne?]

I think that regional characteristics of still wine production--pinot noir, pinot blanc, and chardonnay primarily--will translate into similar qualities in a sparkling wine.

There actually -is- such thing as unsparkling Champagne, you know. And guess what.... it tastes like flat Champagne! Well, closer to a White Burgundy, but still...

←

Here are very recent tasting notes from an '89 sparkler and a '90 still wine from the same Champagne grower...

• 1989 Guy Michel Tradition Brut - France, Champagne, Pierry (12/31/2005)
  A Break from Shopping (Ebisu Garden Place -- R-Gath): Evolved deep golden yellow with unusually (even worryingly) large bead of good persistence. Not sure how there could be enough dissolved CO2 to keep up a mousse with bubbles that large for that long. Nose is classic mature Champagne in a slightly oxydised style. Bruléed apple fruit is joined by ripe brie cheese and mushroom. Palate is very soft and very round, in fact a bit fat. Acid is nowhere to be found, but there is a nice dose of grilled bread and roasted hazelnut that hits the back of the nose during the finish. A nice array of flavors and an interesting contrast to the still wine from Christmas day, this was enjoyable for a glass, but would begin to cloy after that. There was only the slightest hint of the chalk that was so prominent in the still wine. I’m not a big fan of ‘89 Champagnes in general, but I suspect this was about more than just vintage.
  
• 1990 Guy Michel Coteaux Champenois Guy Michel - France, Champagne, Pierry, Coteaux Champenois (12/25/2005)
  Christmas Dinner (At home in Tokyo): Pale yellow, with darker hints around the rim. The surprisingly youthful look carries through to a nose that simply screams chalk and tart pears. Underneath this initial youthful presentation is a bit of more mature and ripe apple, plus some grilled nut that hints at a bit more underlying maturity. On the palate, the wine is a little sharp and is texturally thin, though not thin of flavor. A bit of slightly exotic citrus joins the white tree fruit, but this is really all about chalk and acid brightness. The mid-palate fills with chalk that is reminiscent of upper Loire chèvre in its chalky stage – both in flavor and texture. The finish lingers a bit with more chalk and just-ripe apple. I’m not sure I’d want to drink this alone, but this was fantastic with the fresh oysters and fried shellfish. This chardonnay from Pierry is an absolute testament to terrior and the ageability and lurking character of what can seem like thin and acidic base wines.
  

Posted from CellarTracker

Re: all the other discussions, I've stayed out of them as I normally make a rude or intolerant comment when people make broad generalizations. I haven't matured or grown much (except by losing my hair and expanding my girth) but I have learned to keep my mouth shut on rare occasions.

However, a few comments (some of which will be much like the same generalizations I criticize):

(1) My favorite sparkling wines are generally farmer fizz from the Champagne region. I find they generally show the level of detail and terroir that makes me happy. In fact, I think Champagne can show terroir in a way that not many places can...MSR, Nahe, Loire CB, B&B, Burg, Kamptal/Kremstal GruVe and riesling...maybe northern Rhone and Alsace riesling...some new world sites that I (and most of the world) don't yet know so well. I am also (generally) more of a blanc de blancs fan than a fan of pinot-driven sparklers. This is a type where I think the almost-too-freaking-cold-to-grow level of acidity-etched detail really shines through from Champagne terroir.

(2) There are, of course, wines from Champagne NM houses that can also show detail and terroir (Salon, Krug Mesnil, Clos des Goisses) and there are house wines that don't necessarily show such terroir but are just so damn seductively good that one can't help but love them (Krug vintage, Krug MV, Bolly GA and VVF and RD). I know I've left some out, as well.

(3) There are also wines from other places that I think are every bit as good as Champagne, just different. Most of them are less appealing to my palate and preferences, but that doesn't make them lesser wines. I think the Giacosa Brut (pinot from Oltrepò Pavese), the Roederer (from Andersen Valley), some Iron Horse wines (Green Valley), Huët's Pétillant, and others are great efforts AND appeal to me. For the price, I've liked the Argyle that I've tasted. There are others that appeal to me less but are still good.

(4) I do believe American wineries are just finding the best spots. I strongly favor Andersen and Green Valleys over Napa/Sonoma sparklers. Perhaps it's just palate preference, but I've never found the definition I've wanted in warmer climate wines.

(5) There is plenty of industrial plonk made in Champagne. I'd never disagree with that. A good bit of it sells for a lot of money and is a disgrace.

(6) However, that doesn't mean that even Moët can't make a good wine sometimes. Whether the '95 and '96 DPs are worth the money is a worthwhile and interesting debate. I am not generally a buyer of DP at all. I'd prefer to spend my money searching for a new, more unusual farmer fizz that will teach me something more about a particular site/village. However, the '95 and '96 DPs are both very good wines, of very different style despite the attempts of LVMH to maintain the brand style. They're not small production and they're not what I normally drink, but we can all get carried away in our desire to slam the large production, industrial wines. I'm more guilty than most. But I do think this thread has perhaps been a bit rough on them.

Enjoy,

Jim

[Burgundian winemaker from canada?]

...Marchand was the winemaker...

←

I probably shouldn't make any lame references to Marchand de vin...

Ouch,

Jim

[TN: What to drink]

WHAT TO DRINK WHEN YOUR WIFE COMES HOME WITH CRABS - Home in Tokyo (1/7/2006)

On a recent shopping venture, Cathryn found soft shell crab, one of our favorites but practically unknown in Japanese markets. What a great surprise!! The ever game Richard, Naoko, and kids agreed to join us for dinner.

Warming Up

With brie de meux and salame (one red pepper crusted and one black pepper crusted)

• 2002 Nigl Grüner Veltliner Privat - Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
  Light and bright but rich yellow. Great minerally nose straight out of the bottle blossoms over a couple of hours to encompass gentle asparagus, white pepper, grapefruit, and peach. Awesome complexity combined with piercing density. On the palate, dense and bright at the same time with grapefruit, white pepper, sweet green peas, some lemon, and pear. Enough already --like a laundry list of complexity even though this is a baby that is all primary. Stunning value in the mid-high 30's, this would be a buy at $100. Oh yeah, nice finish too. Best wine I've tasted this year, but I'm "waiting for the clampdown" © so try it fast or leave it alone for ten. (Seemed appropriate to give props to one of the greatest rock albums ever made in a note for what may the best-value wine I've ever tasted.)
  

At Dinner

With soft shell crab meunier and green salad with walnut oil dressing

• 2003 Weingut Erich und Brigitte Polz Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Trocken - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
  Slightly fuzzy but very light yellow with a bit of visible spritz. Nose shows big dose of not too sweet canned fruit cocktail as well as some mineral in the background. On the palate, the combination of spritz and with mineral makes me think of bath salts. Other than some mushy lentils, not much GrüVe typicality, but pleasing nonetheless. Ripe side of vintage shows in sweetish tropical fruit and a lack of acid that makes everything seem a little bit muted, but the mineral and spritz keep it a little interesting. I know Ploz from Südsteiermark, but not from Wachau, so I did a little research. This is about $9-$10 ex-domaine, which would be good value. By the time it's marked up in Tokyo, not so good. I'd like to try the Federspiel, as it may be better balanced in this vintage.
  
• 1990 Henry Brochard Sancerre - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
  Bought this for a song from a shop that (1) knows I'm a necrophile and (2) generally doesn't sell crap so it was worth a flier. Still looks youthful and bright with a light straw color. No oxydation on nose, but not a ton of fruit either. A little grass, a little gooseberry, and a little simple very ripe white fruit. On the palate, enough acid still to have life, but not enough to be the sustain pedal it needs. However, while it never becomes bright and young, a little more time in glass brings out a rich, leesy roundness and some more ripe apple. Even picks up a touch of body and finish. I think I'll still opt to take my Loire SB young and crisp, but another great example of what a little time and air can do for a wine that seems tired. Had enough life left that it made a good match for a was improved by the crab. As Mssr. Audonze says, "the older wines are younger than we think." (Though this wasn't that old.)
  

Dessert

With home-made sandwich cookies -- gaufrette wafers spread with cassis-flavored overwhipped cream and topped with sliced strawberry and balsamic glaze

• 1995 Château La Tour Blanche - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  Medium gold with good density, but not the kind of glass-hugging viscosity one gets from a bigger year. Nose immediately shows a shot of botrytis, along with ripe peach-flavored custard and some honey. Palate is in balance and has the botrytis flavor, but not the zingy botrytis acidity that the nose seemed to promise. Fairly light-textured but flavorsome with cling peaches, honey, and lemon cream. Decent finish brings out a little of the missing zing. Still young with unevolved flavors. Will never be a blockbuster but may pick up complexity with some more time in bottle. Light, bright, and versatile enough to pair well with not too sweet dessert.
  

Someone needs to take the cellar key from me

With reckless abandon!

• 1995 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
  Plummy red turning to brickish at edge. The kind of plummy red that always leads me to expect somewhat roasted fruit. Nose doesn't show too hot, despite the 16% alcohol, but it does show a bit of prune and raisin along with the plum and cherry. On the palate, tastes very tired and perhaps cooked. Having reason to believe it may indeed be heat damaged, I dump my glass and put the bottle aside. Well, I never throw anything away without one last taste. The next afternoon, it has picked up a bit of leather and spice on the nose, along with the alcohol being a little more pronounced. On the palate -- wow!! It still has fruit that has some roasted (not just raisined) character, but also has some cherry acid brightness and some more typical bitter almond/peach kernel, a little smooth mocha, and some resin. A completely different wine, it really needed tons of air! I've got another bottle that I'll give a few years to see what happens. I'm still a little concerned by the way the alcohol began to stick out, but with 18 hours of air, it moved from presumed cooked to something I might not buy would be very happy to drink.
  
• 1996 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Champans 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
  What's that cheesy Eric Segal line that Matt Kramer quotes? "What can you say about a girl who died?" Well, what can you say about a wine I killed in the promise of its youth? Richard and I had been talking about how Volnay has a higher percentage of good growers than any other village and we just couldn't help checking in on this. It's that bright cherry color that tells you the Burg you're about to drink has plenty of healthy acidity. That color just makes my mouth water. The nose has vibrant fruit of red berry and sour cherry, along with some mushroom and minerally earth. On the palate, the acid is very bright and very much visibly present, enough so that one only notices the tannins in the front of the mouth after swallowing. While the acid is bright, the fruit on the palate is darker -- wonderfully sapid deep berry and black cherry. Nice body from entry to exit. Terrific balance and concentration, as well as tremendous focus and purity. Of course, all of this took vigorous swirling and air sucking and was still only a series of brief flashes from a shut-down wine. Hands off and it'll become a treasure!
  

Lots of wines way too young (and one a bit too old) but all in the name of science. The Nigl and the Champans are gonna be great!

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: Where'd this come from?]

WHERE DID THESE COME FROM? - Home (1/5/2006-1/6/2006)

Tasting through a couple of things people have given me at one time or another.

• 2001 West Brook Riesling - New Zealand, South Island, Marlborough (1/5/2006)
  Light gold with tiny green flashes, bright and appealing. Typical dusty mineral nose of just-opened riesling. Once it airs out a touch, sweetish simple apple and pear fruit appears. Over the course of a couple of days, the fruit settles down and the acid steps more to the fore. Enough fruit to last three days, it really is in best balance on day two. Good concentration and balance overall. Never seen it before so I look it up and discover that this is a $10-$12 wine. Could use some more complexity but a very good effort for the money. I wish people brought me things like this more often.
  
• 2000 Canyon Road Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California (1/6/2006)
  Darkish red, clear. Sweet fruit and oak nose. On the palate, soft and round and sweetish plum and cherry fruit wrapped in a big dilly dose of American oak. Someone gave me eight of these when he left Seoul three years ago. Not bad for what it is, I guess. Plenty of people like this sort of thing. They'll have to finish it for me because I'm not drinking it.
  

Not too bad. I can serve the cab to people who like that sort of thing, but I won't have to suffer the embarassment of letting one of my merchants see me buying it! I'd actually like to run into something like the riesling on a restaurant list.

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: Airplane Wines]

AIRPLANE WINES - A JAL flight (1/9/2006)

On a flight to HK. With airline food, culminating in one of those grey, steamed steaks. Blech!! Actually, a cold lobster terrine wasn't half-bad. Why don't they learn and do a cold food plate?

• N.V. Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Brut - France, Champagne
  Very light straw yellow, almost watery at edge. Mousse closer to pétillant than to mousseaux. Simple nose of toast and sweetish white fruit. Palate has a slightly yeasty apple/pear fruit with a little leesiness on the brief finish. Good acid, in balance, but not much of real interest here.
  
• 2004 Labouré-Roi Chablis - France, Burgundy, Chablis
  Slightly darkish yellow. Clean but not particularly bright. Minerally nose of light tart white fruit. Not much else on the nose. Bright acid and mineral on slightly dilute apple/grapefruit palate. Picks up a little bit of weight with time in glass. Citrus fruit and acid sustains a reasonably long finish. My first '04 Chablis. If this negoc version of a simple Chablis is indicative, I'm going to like the vintage. Good for what it is.
  
• 2003 Château de la Croix Cuvée la Grave - France, Bordeaux, Médoc
  Deep inky young-wine purple. Plum, restrained bit of oak, noticeable alcohol on nose. Ripe raspberry and currant fruit on entry, once the quickly receding tannins abate. A little thin in the middle with some plummy merlot fruit. Decent acid gives the finish a bit of unexpected brightness. Dense, a little rustic, but not too bad to a guy who generally doesn't appreciate young Bordeaux. Not something to seek out or buy, but better than much airplane wine.
  

Posted from CellarTracker

[comparison for 02 Ch Margaux]

If you're looking for new world, I would make a couple of Aussie suggestions that should at least threaten to come in under your price threshhold. Mosswood makes a very nice cab that has held its own very well against a good vintage of Ducru. Maybe a little steep in price is the Parker Estate first growth from Coonawarra, but it should be close. It struck me like a slightly forward Graves and was extremely enjoyable. Both have a classic enough profile that they can stand well with left bank Medocs.

Enjoy,

Jim

[Germany/Austria Wine Guide]

Not as comprehensive and with a natural importer's slant, but you can't go wrong by reading Terry Theise's catalogues at the Skurnik site.

Great writer, absolute iconoclast, terroiriste of the first order. You may not agree with everything he says, but there's a lot of good meat. I've never agreed with everything anyone said, but I come closer with Terry than with most.

His Champagne catalogues are also great reading.

Enjoy,

Jim

[TN: '98 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Rouge]

• 1998 Maison Leroy Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (1/5/2006)
  At Nobu Tokyo, with a wide range of foods. (First time I’ve been to Nobu. Everyone’s gotta do it once, but it had a sort of corporate feel to it. Certainly good food, but equal or better food with more personality is available at any number of upscale izakaya joints for a lot less money.)
  Slightly fading red showing hints of maturity. Fairly bright. Nose shows red fruit – sour cherry and undefined berry – along with some foresty/mushroomy element plus a bit of Gevery-like earth. Very forthcoming and open from the start with a pleasing level of complexity for a basic Bourgogne. Palate still retains a bit of tannin, but this is pretty evolved. Good acid, some minerally earth, and the slightest suggestion of soy add interest to a dark strawberry and cherry palate. Good depth and a fair finish for what it is. Completely ready and should probably be consumed over the next year or two. This did a good and versatile job of matching with a wide range of foods, probably much better than the more expensive things on the list would have.
  

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: New Years Day]

NEW YEARS DAY - Home in Tokyo (1/1/2006)

With slow-cooked pork shoulder, apple-onion-vinegar sauce, black-eyed peas with fatty pork, cabbage and onions, and cornbread.

• 2002 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
  Light yellow and fresh looking. Nose is initially closed and just a little reduced, but doesn’t take long to open up to show lovely slate sprinkled with fresh lemon juice. It only takes a few moments more for the cherry to arrive. Once it does, it’s always there, but bits of mineral and flower and limey citrus come and go to keep things interesting. On the second day the cherry is still there at the core, but the other elements have picked up in intensity. On the palate, this combines a luscious salty sweetness with lively enough acidity that this is a pleasure to drink alone or with food. Berry, cherry, and the lightest honeyed apple combine with more mineral to make up a deliciously primary palate that does not sag a bit from entry through the middle to a lovely long finish. Warning!!! Keep your hands off of this. It’s all primary now and needs loads of time, but it’s just so beautifully delicious that one will find it very hard to let the rest of one's bottles sit.
  

I grew up in the deep southern US and I've lived in Asia for the last six years. Every time I can't figure out what to drink, it seems like something Alsatian, German or Austrian comes to the rescue. Also works for southern-style New Year's dinner.

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: New Years Eve]

NEW YEARS EVE - Robuchon (Tokyo) and a nearby bar (12/31/2005)

For New Years Eve, we headed to Robuchon's Tokyo outpost with Cathryn's parents and her brother and sister-in-law.

Starting Out

Amuse of apple pearls with vodka granitée

Ossetra caviar in a lobster gelée with cauliflower cream

• N.V. Bruno Paillard Champagne Rosé Brut Première Cuvée - France, Champagne, Reims, Champagne
  Light, only slightly more than salmon color, with elegant small mousse. Nose leads with light strawberries with a little apple underneath. With further time, a little chalky mineral and a mixed bouquet of flowers turn up. On the palate, it is similar with light berry fruit buoyed by great crisp acidity and a mineral streak. The slightest hint of structure shows up in the finish. This is beautifully light and elegant – almost evanescent except that the finish lingers and the pleasure lasts. Decidedly refined for a house pour! I like it.
  

And When the White Comes...

Tuna tartare with red pepper and bergamote oil

Foie gras on a bed of parmesan spelt risotto

Crustacés with amadai (Japanese sea bream-like fish) in saffron bouillon with just a touch of rouille

There was great disappointment here, as there was a '90 Chave Hermitage Blanc on the list for $165. However, it had sold out and they had failed to update the list. Why is the steal of the list always gone when I get there???

• 1999 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
  Enticingly bright straw yellow. Nose immediately shows the oak, which takes a bit of time to step back and let a beautiful floral apple and lemon nose come forward. The nose combines bright, fresh wild stream stoniness and citrus acid with a prettiness to the fruit that promises a lot to come. This is still very young, as the beauty and stoniness take at least 20 minutes to come to the fore and are always threatening to hide behind the oak and apple fruit again. On the palate, a great richness that is absolutely fresh and stony bright in a way that only Puligny can be. A very young but enticing village effort that needs at least another five years to begin to show its best. Most producers should be proud to make a première cru of this caliber.
  

And One More Round...

Thin-sliced boeuf rôti with a mille-feuille of gratinéed potato

Assorted cheeses (including Rocquefort, Epoisses, Comté on my plate)

I was in charge of ordering wine but not of deciding whether we had a dessert wine, so there was nothing to go with the citron crème or the soufflé.

• 1989 Robert Ampeau & Fils Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavieres 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune
  Very light burgundy red, fading to orange at the rim. Decanted and served immediately, this was wide open for business. Out of the gate, the nose showed pretty aromas of purple flower, sweet cherry and raspberry, and pine forest floor. The palate still maintained good acidity, but had given up any semblance of tannin. There was a nice bit of sweet fruit up front, but it had lost a good bit of density. While the mid-palate didn’t fall away, it was definitely more about flowery elegance and soft sweet fruit than about power or body. Showed a bit of breed and depth on a finish that was a little longer than expected and left a nice haunting violet-like scent. Would have been overmatched by a heavier preparation, but stood up well to the lighter beef dish and did a great job of working throughout the meal for the two non-white wine drinkers at the table. Enjoyable, pretty, and sneaky long on the finish. I suspect this never had a lot more body and concentration than it does now. Still, I’d rather drink this with food than any number of ostensibly “better” wines in their youth.
  

And Midnight Comes...

We headed down the street to a bar to ring in the new year with...

• N.V. Gosset Champagne Brut Grand Reserve - France, Champagne
  A bright yellow-gold with small persistent mousse. From the beginning, this is very much a Champagne that is about celebration rather than food – a great choice for the midnight toast. Nose shows a bit of sweet vanilla, along with ripe apple, fig, and yeasty bread. Palate is round and creamy with very rich apple pie fruit enriched by mocha, apricot confit, and baking spice. Great density and richness, complexity, and hedonism. Again, seems more like a celebration wine than a food wine, but perfect for the moment. A new category of house wine for me – “toasting wine” – is likely to find this first up in the rotation.
  

No need for a food review in a wine forum, but a few quick comments:

(1) Food was excellent and beautifully executed, but lacked inspiration.

(2) There were a few smudges on some serving pieces that just didn't match with the setting, price, and aspirations of the retaurant.

(3) Service was oddly inconsistent. Terrible wine service (courses served unbidden before wine was ordered or aperitifs finished, list not up to date, sommelier had no idea about the wines on his list), but very attentive table service. They noticed my father-in-law was left-handed and reversed every setting for him after the amuse.

Enjoyed it, but there are experiences that are much better in terms of both food and service for the same money in Tokyo.

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: Champagne Break from Shopping]

A BREAK FROM SHOPPING - Ebisu Garden Place -- R-Gath (12/31/2005)

One of the things I love about Tokyo is that there are indulgent surprises everywhere...like the wine bar in the middle of the department store and shopping arcade near my house.

While taking my mother-in-law, wife, and sister-in-law shopping on New Years Eve day, my brother-in-law, Lee, and I stopped for a Champagne break.

• 1989 Guy Michel Tradition Brut - France, Champagne, Pierry
  Evolved deep golden yellow with unusually (even worryingly) large bead of good persistence. Not sure how there could be enough dissolved CO2 to keep up a mousse with bubbles that large for that long. Nose is classic mature Champagne in a slightly oxydised style. Bruléed apple fruit is joined by ripe brie cheese and mushroom. Palate is very soft and very round, in fact a bit fat. Acid is nowhere to be found, but there is a nice dose of grilled bread and roasted hazelnut that hits the back of the nose during the finish. A nice array of flavors and an interesting contrast to the still wine from Christmas day, this was enjoyable for a glass, but would begin to cloy after that. There was only the slightest hint of the chalk that was so prominent in the still wine. I’m not a big fan of ‘89 Champagnes in general, but I suspect this was about more than just vintage.
  
• N.V. Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Brut - France, Champagne, Ambonnay
  Deepish gold, not quite bright, with small steady mousse. Nose has a persistent strain of strawberry that is clearly detectable sitting back in the chair with the glass sitting on the table at arm’s length. In many wines, this kind of strawberry nose bothers me, but this was surprisingly clean and fresh. Underneath the persistent berry nose was ripe apple and rich white flower, along with a nice bit of rising bread yeast. The palate had a surprising combination of density and integration that – combined with just enough acid – gave the wine great balance and lightness. Plum joined the strawberry for a classic blanc de noirs palate that finished with more yeast and bit of caramel. Very much lives up to its grand cru billing. My first experience with the producer; I’d like to have more.
  

Certainly makes shopping easier. And makes me into a much more compliant husband.

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: Dinner in Arai]

DINNER IN ARAI - French Restaurant at the Resort (12/27/2005)

Tired kids, ski-fatigued adults, very slow service...and a wine list with about five red choices and five white choices. One of those order the wine before the food and hope situations. It was amde easier by the fact that the choices were pretty obvious. The fact that most of the table ordered foie gras, then duck or beef didn't hurt either!

• 2001 Château Montus Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec - France, Southwest France, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh
  Lightish straw yellow, even to the rim. Nose shows the presence (not overwhelming) of some sweet new oak and of rich fig and apricot fruit. The richer fruits are buoyed by brighter apple and kumquat notes, along with a little candied nut as well. Palate is completely dry despite the sweetish presentation of the nose. A moderate amount of acid keeps everything in balance as the rich stone fruit and honey palate turns into chanterelle on the slightly oak-spiced finish. A great accompaniment to my wife’s foie gras and to my pork terrine, this does less well with my main of sole in a lemon cream sauce. Made in a modern style with a dose of new oak that might normally put me off, this is still a great choice with foie type dishes as the fruit has enough richness and body to balance the oak. My first experience with this and I will be going back for more.
  
• 2002 Domaine Parent Pommard - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
  Deepish burgundy red, clear but not particularly bright. As this was served much, much too cold, the nose was almost non-existent when it was first poured. After warming up, it shows sweet cherry, meaty shiitake mushroom, and earth on the nose. The palate is a little rough on entry and exit, but has a nice burly core of thick-skinned cherries and deep sweet plums. Finish is only of moderate length, but combines coffee spice with more meaty cherry. A little rustic and little rough, but pleasing with the duck and steak ordered around the table. Comes off like an old, old-style Pommard minus the sun in the sack or mystery mix from the Rhone. My first experience with this domaine. I won’t be buying them for the cellar, but they’re a new reasonable choice for restaurant lists.
  

Other than with my fish, these turned out to be good matches. The Parent definitely needs to duck or beef to smooth its rough edges. Who would have thought I would discover Pacherenc on a ten-item list in a restaurant in the middle of Niigata prefecture? Even a blind squirrel...

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: Christmas Dinner (Champ, Vouvray]

CHRISTMAS DINNER - At home in Tokyo (12/25/2005)

Cathryn's parents and brother and sister-in-law were in town for the holidays. We also had Richard, Naoko, and the kids to join us for dinner.

Settling in

• N.V. José Michel & Fils Champagne Cuvée du Père Houdart - France, Champagne, Moussy
  Some goldish depth to the yellow and a mousse that is full but somehow seems to move almost in slow motion – produces an interesting anticipatory sort of urgency to take the first sip. The nose produces an immediate impression of deep white plums and brioche, with a general bass-level clay kind of mineral behind it. With a search and a sniff, some apple and honey and nuts are there as well. Palate is smooth and soft, with a mousse that is not quite creamy, but certainly smooth. After more deep plum fruit and toasted nuts and butter, there seems to be a grilled mushroom kind of character on the lingering finish. Completely different to the V-F, this is all about depth and maturity. An interesting blend of base wines from ’85, ’86, and ’88, recently disgorged and having a fairly high proportion of Pinot Meunier. A clear case for what that grape can do with a little respect thrown its way.
  

Mingling with stand up appetizers

Fresh local oysters on the half shell; diver scallops and razor-thin slices of lemon wrapped in fresh yuba and fried; and fresh medium shrimp fried tempura style but with a very ligth dusting of panko added on -- the fried items with a ponzu-mayo dipping sauce

• 1964 Domaine Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
  This a deep gold, but still has a surprising brightness for its age. Nose shows some nutty/sherry-flavored oxydised notes upon pouring. However, there’s still fresh ripe apple fruit, along with more mature sweet figs. Underneath all of this is a spine of crushed stone that is consistent through both the nose and the palate. The palate initially shows the same oxidation as the nose, along with nectarine and fig fruit. It is a pleasant surprise when, over the course of about an hour, the oxydised element actually recedes and the wine picks up a sense of fruit freshness on the nose and acid definition on the palate. There’s always a slight rancio character – this is past its prime – but the wine becomes much younger with time in the glass. This far exceeded my low expectations for a 41-year old wine that was modest to start. Then again, I always underestimate the longevity and capacity for evolution of good chenin blanc. Not the best match with the food, but a pleasure to drink.
  
• 1990 Guy Michel Coteaux Champenois Guy Michel - France, Champagne, Pierry, Coteaux Champenois
  Pale yellow, with darker hints around the rim. The surprisingly youthful look carries through to a nose that simply screams chalk and tart pears. Underneath this initial youthful presentation is a bit of more mature and ripe apple, plus some grilled nut that hints at a bit more underlying maturity. On the palate, the wine is a little sharp and is texturally thin, though not thin of flavor. A bit of slightly exotic citrus joins the white tree fruit, but this is really all about chalk and acid brightness. The mid-palate fills with chalk that is reminiscent of upper Loire chèvre in its chalky stage – both in flavor and texture. The finish lingers a bit with more chalk and just-ripe apple. I’m not sure I’d want to drink this alone, but this was fantastic with the fresh oysters and fried shellfish. This chardonnay from Pierry is an absolute testament to terrior and the ageability and lurking character of what can seem like thin and acidic base wines.
  

Sitting down to -- pasta??? or rice???

Traditional Sicilian tuba -- oven-baked terrine of eggy, pecorino-flavored carnaiolo rice on the outside with tomato-sauced penne and fresh peas on the inside.

• 1990 Villa de Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rufina
  Clear and bright red-orange, noticeably lighter at the edge. Nose is still bright with earth and sour cherry, along a with a little mushroomy depth. Palate shows good acid brightness and complete absence of tannins. Initially quite light, but cherry fruit actually picks up a little weight with some air. Not quite thin, but definitely to the lean side of the scale. Strong features are a pleasantly sinewy texture, good acidic cherry-toned Rufina fruit, and a nice earthiness that comes back out on the finish. A good accompaniment to the tuba, this is not yet long in the tooth but does need to be consumed. This was a great value. I’m glad I’ve still got two more bottles.
  

And now for the bird

Long Island duck roasted with sourish orange-lemon-honey-black pepper-cinnamon glaze. Sauce of defatted pan remainders enriched with Champagne and butter then reduced. Gratinée of potatoes that cooked with the duck in its fat then were browned with a little cream. Haricots verts sautéed in walnut oil with shallots and crushed walnut.

• 1993 Hubert de Montille Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
  Bright reddish burgundy, still pretty solid at rim. Threw a small amount of sediment when decanted. Opened and decanted about an hour and a half before serving, the first impression from the decanter had it very much closed up, with some sweet dark fruit and a little earth on the nose, but not much more. When poured, it was much more open, but still far from generous. The nose showed a nice concentration and density of dark berry richness, along with an undertone of earth and anise. On the palate, it first shows as being a bit rough, with slightly dusty tannins overwhelming the sappy berry fruit and bright acidity. However, a little time comes to the rescue and the brightness and focus of the acidity, plus the silkiness of the fruit, make this much more pleasurable and Volnay-like. The lingering sweet berry and earth finish promises a lot. At a bare minimum, this still needs a good three to five years to finish softening and integrating (and is drinking surprisingly younger than the Pommard Pez), but is already enjoyable with meaty dishes. Provided a very nice match with the duck.
  

Just a wafer-thin mint (or more)

Charlotte russe (like a trifle but lighter -- without the fruit and sherry/port/brandy)

• N.V. Franck Bonville Ratafia de Champagne - France, Champagne, Avize, Ratafia de Champagne
  The color of a very light brandy, this has a nose that gives off delightful and slightly spirity wafts of orange liqueur. Along with the orange, closer inspection shows macerated raisin and pear. The palate is warm but not at all hot, with sweet caramelized pears, chocolate-covered orange peel, and Christmas pudding spice. Deceptively gentle, this is dangerous as one wants to sip and sip and sip, but there is 18% alcohol hidden under the fruit and spice. One of the best accompaniments to charlotte russe that I have ever found.
  

Wines showed well in general and worked especially well with the food. Great company as always. I am blessed to have my cousin Richard and his Japanese family living here in Tokyo. The fact that he is a terroir-obsessed wine geek is just lagniappe.

Posted from CellarTracker

[TN: Varnier Fanniere BdB]

CHRISTMAS MORNING - At Home in Tokyo (12/25/2005)

As we were leaving to ski the next day, this would be our last chance to see Jonathan. Samantha, and kids before their move to HK. We had them over for homemade buttermilk-white cheddar-thyme biscuits with Parma ham and mayonnaise flavored with yuzu rind and dried red chile pepper. In addition to the Champagne, we served bloody marys and bullshots.

• N.V. Varnier-Fanniere Champagne Brut Zero Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne
  Bright yellow color to meet the morning, with a strong mousse of very fine bead. A very pretty Champagne in the glass. Clean fruit and mineral driven nose shows a soft and generous slate sort of character with white fruits and a tad of lower behind the slate. On the palate, the mousse is aggressive but the wine is not. Extremely giving for a Brut Zero wine, I never would have guessed that it had no dosage blind. Palate is more of the white fruit with very crisp and fresh apple and pear and just a touch of citrus on the finish. Overall impression is of a nice balance between crispness and generosity with a hallmark of that very strong mineral nose. Only complaint would be lack of complexity but this drank very, very well for a basic-level NV. I’m generally not a big fan of no-dosage Champagnes and imagine a touch of sugar may have brought out a little more interest, richness, and complwxity in the mid-palate and finish.
  

A melancholy event for a Christmas morning, but I'm looking forward to seeing them when I am in HK next week.

Posted from CellarTracker

[Decanting Champagne]

Please supply a reference that documents the decanting of Philipponnat before service. Champagnes for bottles bigger than Magnums are decanted in to the bigger bottles from standard bottles. I have NEVER heard of a house that decants its wine befpre service. -Dick

←

Philipponnat reps do it when they show older vintages of Clos des Goisses at tastings. Generally, just about a half hour to allow the wine to open up.

Additionally, Moët recommends decanting its demi-sec. Don't know if it's still there, but the decanting recommendation used to be on its website.

Now you've heard.

Jim

[Decanting Champagne]

ABSOLUTELY NOT!

The Champagne houses go to great lengths to put bubbles in thier wine. Anyone that thinks that Champagne tastes better without bubbles mistaken. Even old Champagnes would suffer from decanting as the aeration would kill anything left. -Dick

←

And some of them, at least, will go to a bit of length to take some of them back out or to soften the wine.

At Philipponnat, they decant their top wine (Clos des Goisses). Take from that what you will...but like most absolutist statements, the one above is at least subject to question.

Now, that being said, I don't decant Champagne myself. But I do sometimes serve big younger wines in the same glasses I use for white Burg.

Jim