This was in the Herald, and in a piece in Stuff at Night, they went into great detail dealing with the chefs "quirky"-ness and the afct that he has dined at El Bulli. His amuse is poprocks and powdered popcorn served in a test tube. what do you say to that? Louis changes name for L of it By Food Briefs Wednesday, December 17, 2003 The latest change at the cafe in Louis, Boston goes further than a new chef and a new menu to attract the retail store's power clientele. Under owner Debi Greenberg, the recently reopened cafe has been renamed L. Transplanted New York chef Pino Maffeo (formerly of AZ and Pazo) is in charge of the kitchen. Gone are the pasta and celebrated pizza from onetime supervising chefs Johanne Killeen and George Germon of Al Forno in Providence. Maffeo turns out Asian-influenced prawn tempura and green papaya salad, wok-fried Manila clams and tea-smoked chicken. Several wines and champagne cocktails are offered by the glass. L serves lunch, with dinner to be added this week. Call 617-266-4680.