Priscilla
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Recently began Is There a Nutmeg in the House? a posthumously-published (2001) Elizabeth David collection. It’s been a keen pleasure reading her again.
I consult her for recipes frequently, but have not revisited her longer prose in some time. I ripped through her books when I was younger, including English Bread and Yeast Cookery, and Salt, Spices, and Aromatics in the English Kitchen, as well as the famous, invaluable Continental titles. Also an earlier collection of short pieces, An Omelet and a Glass of Wine, and later, initially dutifully, the fascinating and high-quality Harvest of the Cold Months, super-dense, but so worthwhile. Two recent biographies and that’s the whole shebang, I believe.
She is adamantly opinionated--I imagine she seems too stern for some readers, but I like all that. Given a respectable foundation, a strong stance is something I welcome. I like my authorities to be, well, authoritative. Her cookbooks are, in a way, cryptic—but they are complemented perfectly by, for instance, Marcella Hazan’s or Madeleine Kamman’s thoroughgoing, teacherly detail.
So, what has Elizabeth David’s work ever done for you?
Priscilla
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So Oraklet cuts 00-type flour with pastry flour, even further reducing protein content. Hmmm.
I have used fine semolina as specified by Marcella Hazan for that square-spaghetti-type fresh pasta, hmmm, tonnarelli is it called? Other than that, pasta-wise it's a-p all the way.
Robert, thank you for the double-tile idea. I'll be enacting it asap.
Priscilla
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Robert, I too most emphatically am NOT a technical baker, although I have, as an amateur baker seeking information, certainly benefited from their research. I didn’t even want to BE a baker at all! But once one begins it is apparently impossible to stop, and there is pleasure to be derived under the burden, I guess.
I have read about Italian 00 flour, never used it. The King Arthur Flour people used to carry something in their catalogue that was supposed to be comparable. Any interest I have had in trying such a flour was for making fresh pasta, for which I have always used all-purpose. I have read about cutting the gluten content with pastry flour, as you describe. Recently I’ve noticed Mario Batali on his from-Italy show working with a bag of Barilla flour, and wondered if that was the elusive 00, and if it was available here in the U.S., as is other Barilla product.
As for baking, when you say add a second layer of tiles, do you mean a second layer right on top of the first, or on another shelf? I use inexpensive unglazed tiles, too, on the floor of my oven, and the thought of a double layer, which has never occurred to me before this, seems as if it might both hold heat even better AND protect against scorching. Hmmmm possibly worth the few dollars’ investment to see!
At least until I get my custom-built wood-fired oven in the back yard, that is.
Priscilla
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Robert, what kind of flour do you use for pizza dough?
Do you think there is advantage in using a high-gluten flour and letting it rest and relax over using a lower-gluten flour in the first place?
Priscilla
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I assume that the "tilty-ring" mixing bowl is the sort which comes in nested sizes with a loose ring attached on either side. I've had a stainless steel set for forty years that I bought from Sears and which hang at eye level from a single hook under a shelf above the work surface. Convenient and instantly available, they're the ones I always go for -- I wouldn't be without them.
The bowls you describe, John, sound like the classic Revere Ware stainless with the hanging ring, or similar. Have a few myself I've picked up along the way--I like the shape of them for many jobs.
The Rosti bowls referred to are Melamine or another hard plastic, groovy colorways, instantly recognizable as Scandinavian. Integral handles, no rings. Pursued by collectors, nowdays. At least one update came with a circular rubberized ring that sat on the counter, holding the bowl at an angle of the cook's choosing.
Priscilla
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Interesting article, Miss J. Turgid prose has got its place.
The Rosti mixing bowl the writer cites is a design classic, but the tilty-ring to which he refers, and notes with some anger consumer rejection of, really was an unnecessary conceit. One of the beautiful things about a mixing bowl, conceptually, is that it is all of a piece, complete unto itself, nothing extraneous, separate, loseable.
Not that there can’t or won’t be design improvements on the mixing bowl. As in cuisine, though, and I am sort of a Pollyanna on this account, innovation must justify its own existence. It must make sense, it must propel us even a little further along the historical continuum, it must represent improvement. The inescapable intrinsic subjectivity in defining all these ideas is assumed, fodder for continued debate.
And what I was thinking of reading the essay was how Ikea is like a chain restaurant, knocking off and diluting and serving up lukewarm effigies of not-always-good design. World-wide!
Priscilla
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I like sauerkraut, too.
However, last evening roasted a lamb loin, nice textural contrast between the loin and the tenderloin sides. Deglazement enriched with compound butter. Green-corn (differentiated from dry corn; mine was fresh white corn) pudding as Fritz makes it for Nero Wolfe, with the addition of diced roasted red bell pepper which if I have I put in this dish, glazed roasted beets. Bread.
Priscilla
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Is Tom Valenti's the recipe that David Rosengarten showcased on Taste?
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What about instances where the people at the next table are boring? Would it be impolite to suggest they discuss something interesting?
I have asked to be moved to a different table when saddled with boring eavesdroppage.
Tommy I didn't think you meant me. I think you are correct in pointing out mushy terminology hindering productive discussion.
Isn't that what you were pointing out?
Priscilla
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Um, you mean people are going off-topic? What should we do about this?
no silly. i'm just saying that the incident wasn't an "eavesdropping" incident as much as an "over-hearing" incident. the distinction is probably important to the discussion.
Hmmm. Eavesdropping connoting purposeful, possibly criminal but at least impolite listening in, overhearing connoting what-can-I-do-these-tables-are-so-effing-close-together-I-can-taste-their-food utter and complete blamelessness? Or, opposite?
You are correct, Tommy. We need to define our terms.
Priscilla
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Can one really cook without getting some cuts and burns and whatnot?
And once I stupidly neglected to remove my lovingly cheesecloth-wrapped bouquet garni before bunging a vegetable soup into the food processor for pureement. Just wasn't happening, at all.
Priscilla
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i don't think this thread is about "eavesdropping", per se.
Um, you mean people are going off-topic? What should we do about this?
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I consider eavesdropping one of life's little pleasures. (Do not tell my Mother this.) And it is so interesting, I think, how it varies among restaurants--how conversational culture varies from place to place.
A restaurant we have frequented for years, an outwardly unprepossessing Japanese place with impeccable fish and everything else, has historically provided the most memorable eavesdroppage. And not just at the sushi bar, where the magical bonhomie often encourages eavesdropping to morph into actual conversation between strangers, which is nice, yes, but shoots one's eavesdropping straight to hell.
Where have you found the best eavesdroppage?
Priscilla
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Suvir, I prepared this rice last evening. Due to your wonderfully detailed instructions, I believe, it was so good! I used green cardamom pods. Everyone at table loved it.
Interesting how the cinnamon, just the one stick, ended up as the highest aromatic in the flavor profile, sweet and delicious. I wouldn't have guessed that in advance, and I am persnickety about the harshness cinnamon can impart to dishes, but this gave me new appreciation for its use.
Thank you again for the recipe!
Priscilla
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Liza, wow hardcore, starting with dried hominy, no pun intended as I despise and decry wordplay. The recipe for posole the soup I was taught by a Mexican lady, such an excellent cook, calls for tinned, one (big old) can each of the whole non-degerminated and the degerminated, or whatever. Yep, Juanita's Brand, you know what I mean?
If you are cooking a dried pulse or grain that seemingly will never tenderize, worldwithoutendamen, I attribute it to age of the ingredient, and I don't know if it's mitigatable. I mean, any overnight soaking question has gotta be just about moot, doesn't it, after 5 hours' cookage, for God's sake. IT'S NOT YOUR FAULT!!!
Priscilla
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it was ok.
it might be viewable here, if you so desire. Click me.
it wasn't as watery as it might look. the food mill is definitely something i need to use more often.
thanks for the suggestions.
Tommy your plate looks great not too watery at all the best marinara sauces are light light light, JUST LIKE YOURS. Of course heavier, heartier sauces have their place and time and dish, but often they elbow out the lighter more subtle ones, I think.
I do love my food mill, this week used it for fava puree AND marinara, ON THE SAME EVENING!!! That's how much I love my food mill.
Priscilla
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Last night Niman Ranch rib-eyes cooked according to Alain Ducasse's method outlined in the NYT several weeks back, to good result. (Ref. 3-Star Chef topic over in General.) The basting with accumulated renderment and butter created such a good-tasting crust. While the steaks were taking their prescribed rest, fresh crispy finely-chopped scallions softened and browned in what remained in the cooking pan, later served over the sliced beef. Beet greens, a favorite veg, but in a new-to-me variety called Tall Top Wonder, I think the guy said, braised in cream. Mashed Yukon Gold potatoes from the organic guy at the farmer's market with a coupla garlic cloves cooked in. Nice little salad from the garden. Bread.
Priscilla
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Bruce Cole, coincidentally, if one believes in coincidence, haven't decided whether I do, or not, just this very evening I employed the Alain Ducasse method detailed in the recent NYT on a coupla very nice Niman Ranch thick-cut rib-eyes and it was, if I can speak for those at my table and I think I can, very good.
Too-high heat is just plain old too-high heat, for so many things. You know how Emeril WILL remove the control knob from his appliance and brandish it about. But, is it the Niman Ranch thick-cut rib-eye or is it the method?
Priscilla
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(He also likes to use the word "slicked." Has anyone else noticed this? "oil-slicked," "butter-slicked," "gravy-slicked," Yikes!)
Interesting you should point this out, Lullyloo. Seems to be a problem for a lotta restaurant reviewers, the repetitive use of a small list of descriptors. Some of 'em, reviewers, you can identify just by a word's occurrence, without having seen a byline. Signature style, would be a charitable explanation.
Priscilla
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The type I buy (I always get a portion only, if I bought a pair I would start giggling like a teenager), is slightly different to the yellow rinded type (which is more aged). It is a fresh cheese, so ultra soft (think of the inside of a ripe Brie). I just spread it on bread and add the extra bits on top. There is no wrong way of dealing with a breast shaped cheese, just go with you feelings.
Yeah, I buy a portion too, but what has been available to me is definitely sliceable, even interiorally. I would like to try the soft fresh.
And pairs? Is it actually sold in pairs, and I have been shielded from this by interfering cheesemongers, not unlike Victorians hoping floor-length tableclothes protected us from impure thoughts?
Priscilla
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Wilfrid - "Queso Tetilla" is the cheese in question (a Spanish market has opened up next to our flat in Edinburgh, go figure). Looks like a womans breast, by reputation it tastes of "Kisses". Nice eh.
When I first saw this cheese I thought the resemblance to a big old straw-colored Hershey's Kiss was striking, and now it turns out there's a kiss reference in its story. Funny old world.
A very nice cheese. Would like to know, Adam maybe you will tell me, how does one properly slice it for service. The shape makes it a little unwieldly, although folks seem to manage somehow, don't they?
Priscilla
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Yes. It's like what Bill Broonzy said, the Chicago blues guy, when somebody condescendingly asked him about so-called "folk" music, (and I paraphrase, on account of I can't remember exactly), "I guess all songs are folk songs, I never heard no horse sing 'em."
I think it's the same with cuisine, without too belabored an extrapolation. The proof's always in the pud, whether it's a song or a dish on a plate. (Redundant?)
The cheap eats guys, (and they always seem to be guys although I would welcome hearing of exceptions), do grate. The universal and eternal gratage of the holier-than-thou.
Priscilla
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Thank you so much Suvir! I lack only the green cardamom at the moment and then I am so there with this dish. I can just taste it reading the recipe.
Priscilla
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Wilfrid that sounds straight outta Elizabeth David. Very nice.
With any tomato sauce, evaporation is the key to both consistency and flavor. Raw tomato sauce is a whole different, wonderful, trip.
The way I was taught the One True Way to Marinara by an Italian chef who originated from Calabria, I think, but cooked in Sanremo, is: plum tomatoes, fresh or canned as season dictates, couple cloves of garlic whole, good hit of extra virgin olive oil, whole leaves of basil or another herb I like sage, salt and pepper, stir cook stir cook until reduced, remove garlic if desired, pass through a food mill, correct seasoning, done. It has never ever failed me.
Marcella Hazan's way of looking for the oil to separate from the sauce as an indication of doneness sometimes works for me; I'd be interested to know if others use it. Her tomato sauce with bacon or pancetta and rosemary is very good, too.
Priscilla
Elizabeth David's works
in Food Media & Arts
Posted
Glad to read the Julian Barnes article, John. Thank you for providing the link.
I got a laugh from his heart-stopping moment of uncertainty at Elizabeth David's instruction to melt tomatoes in the recipe he was using. The idea of melting as something that happens to vegetables, rather than only to the usual meltable suspects, is something strongly associated with her writing, for me, even though of course others use it the same way.
Priscilla