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marlena spieler

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Posts posted by marlena spieler

  1. And, sorry, saying that a 20 plus hours dough....has less flavour then a 6 hours dough is incredible.

    in good artisanal bread dough, which while not pizza dough goes on similar flavour notes and textural possibilities, I suggest there is no bonus to having more than 6 hours for the mixing, rising, etc. The important thing is to do it right, not necessarily long.

    "Six hours is about right....there is no point to making the dough more slowly. Here, feel this, smell it.....we'll put it into the oven and then you can taste what I mean"--the late, very great, and sadly gone-too-soon, Lionel Poilane, bread master extraordinaire, whose love of yeasted dough enriched my culinary life as much as his friendship enriched my life in general......

    L'Europeo's crust was: very crisp on the very outside, very tender and moist within, just the right thickness/thinness to get the right balance of the two textures, and the flavour was perfect balance: it had great flavour, was not merely crust, was delicious without anything, one could taste wheat, natural levain, water, salt, fire from the oven......

    I thought it better than Da Michelle's. Have not been to Salvo however. Thought it better than many other places in Napoli.

    i went to chicago with a group of napoletanos recently and we ate our way through a pizza tasting at a resto, spaccanapoli....it was pretty good. the neapolitans loved it in fact. they did bring their own mozzarella di bufala, and their own tomatoes san marzano, so we were halfway to pizza already. the crusts were technically faultless, but in my opinion lacked full flavour. i'd go again, but would prefer going to napoli.

    i'm open to other pizzerias, don't get me wrong. its just i often get dissappointed, even in napoli,

    and i have not been dissappointed at l'europeo ever, not ever, not yet!!!!

    marlena

  2. i've made a similar lebanese garlic dip using, along with the raw garlic and extra virgin olive oil, boiled floury potato, bread, and sometimes almonds too, then smoothed it over with a spoonful of rich greek style or lebanese style yogurt. salt, pepper and i think either a drop or two of vinegar or lemon juice, i forget which.

    yummy with artichokes especially. thin it out with cold water and you have a cold garlic soup to remember.......top with sliced green grapes.....

  3. Divina is the best pizza-chum and all round party girl i know!

    our afternoon of pizza madness at l'europeo consisted of one delicious pizza after another, each one better than the next, and then you wanted to go back and taste the first and then the second, and it was all a haze of pizza deliciousness.

    L'Europeo's pizza dough/crust was exquisite. my fave possibly the one of only dough, used as bread and topped with cured meats. on the other hand, the one with the cooked tomatoes, the margharita, the calzone filled with friarelli and cheese and olives, the raw tomatoes, it was never ending deliciousness.

    i've eaten a lotta pizza in napoli. l'europeo surpassed them all.

    pizza napoletana is right in that its all about the crust. this crust was fabulous. but so were the toppings.

    ps anyone out there as crazy as i am about the little seaweed doughballs, zeppole di mare? Rosiello restaurant makes my fave ones, hot and salty and oily and doughy. oh fabulous. bliss!

  4. Yes, yes, yummily yes!

    but the type of fish is an inland fish, ie lake fish, a specific type that lives in the area around Torino. The dish is one of Torino's most famous and delicious.....i once spent several days with a big big bowl of the stuff and a Torinese woman who was mad about it and had as good an appetite as myself.

    She also recommended to me the restaurant La Badessa which we loved, in case you are in the area again. the name means the mother superior as the building is a former nunnery, and the dishes are very rich and traditional.

    Marlena

  5. Hi Marco and egullet-pizza-teers,

    I have gone back to L'Europeo many times since this interaction wondering what i missed, but it is always so good, and never ever filled with tourists!

    since i hadn't eaten the pizza when i tapped out the original posting, last time (ie a few days ago) i had a pizza tasting, a virtual buffet of pizza-ness, with cured meat and no sauce, with raw tomatoes and basil, with cooked tomatoes, with tomatoes, garlic and basil, calzoni with bitter greens and provolone, i am sure i have forgotten one or two. they were all fabulous!

    maybe its time to revisit the place, Marco, really its always terrific, both cooked dishes and pizza......and i want you to enjoy it as much as i do.

    i'm sure its in the guidebooks, though i haven't read a guidebook, but regardless of where its listed perhaps its not on the tourist path, because whenever i've gone its full of italians, eating lunch, eating dinner, eating pizza. and eating well indeed. desserts (pastries: a cherry and almondy custard tart, baba, that sort of thing) were luscious too.....

    ciao, for now,

    marlena

    Marlena,

    I am from Naples, so I know which places get tourist attention (and prices to reflect that) and which instead are visited by local and have the best value term.

    The food at l'europeo is just traditional stuff overpriced. I did say it seams excellent, but on the other hand the Pizza is disgusting and that place was born as a Pizzeria first and then a restaurant. Now it is the way around.

    Take care

    Marco

  6. Soba, I'm so glad to see you back! i've always felt happy to see your name, cause of the good vibes attached to your postings!

    union square greenmarket is my home turf (well, daughter lives there, i live in uk). (but i cook there whenever i visit, and that dog park.....if you see a fluffy leaping poodle, thats mah "Kitty"! my daughters, that is).

    if you like sauerkraut take a visit to hawthorne farm stand at the greenmarket and ask for a sauerkraut tasting. i am partial to the curry sauerkraut while the caraway is a thing of classic beauty.

    i join everyone else in saying that i'm so sorry you're dealing with hiv. so very sorry. but inspired by your good energy, and know that such good energy and good food and good zest for life is good: good for your health and good for everyone around you!

    okay, i can hardly wait to see what you're eating next.

    xoxo marlena

  7. Don't miss Troyes, it is charming with its wooden beamed houses in the bright colours that they originally were painted in. there is a statue of Rashi, the 13th century (?) Jewish scholar, right in the central square, and there is a really charming hotel down the street where, lets see, the best western is? maybe its called something like three birds?

    food all about champagne, andouiettes, chaorce cheese, all rich things that are good with Champagne to cut its richness. wish i could suggest a specific restaurant. ate a fab grape tart at a vineyard, it was the season......

  8. mmmmmm.....i can almost smell your beans cooking, Steve aka Rancho!

    meanwhile, has anyone seen the paul mcCartney (yes THAT paul mcCartney) video of him mashing potatoes? hysterical. just tap in paul mcCartney and mashed potatoes into you tube and the video will pop up.

    marlena

    2008 International Year of the Potatoes as declared by The United Nations

    Conference and international recipe competition to be held shortly in Peru

  9. Please let us know when your piece runs Marlena---we look forward to it!

    thank you, you're sweet, BeefCheeks!

    It should run the wed that preceeds Pesach, in the sf chronicle, at sfgate.com

    right now am trying to get my recipe for tea eggs right, and figure out the other dish or two i might include. they had lovely cucumber salad, and chinese cucumber salad is surprisingly like ashkanzi cucumber salad. both are delish! so i might include.

    and i'm worrying that my story part of the column won't be as funny or evocative or as alive as i want it to be--it truly was the most amazing evening. if there are any jews out there in beijing looking for a place to do seder, contact kehillat beijing, as they have a big community seder. its touching and wonderful.

    x marlena

  10. I am Chinese and I love Jewish food.

    You beat me to the punch, or in this case, to the keyboard!

    i saw the look on my chinese sister in law when she was first confronted with jewish american deli food. it was pure-focused-on-the-food bliss and admiration.

    i'm writing a piece right now on a pesach seder in beijing, ashkenazic foods prepared by chinese cooks, and never ever ever have i been to a seder elsewhere that the vegetables were SO CRISP! and the chopped liver so light and fluffy (hand chopped). and the eggs for dipping into our salt-water-tears, well they were tea eggs.

    x marlena

  11. alan richman is very cute!

    will he invite me to dinner too? will he come if I invite him?

    my husband was cheered that 1. alan richman met you in his tartan bathrobe and 2. that he served pigs in blankets which looked very fetching to him.

    our jack russell was incensed at the idea of corgis, however.

    cheers,

    marlena

  12. thank you DylanK for the info/recipe on lamb soup paomo, it looks so good i shall copy and try it soon.

    in the recipe i notice an ingredient that i'm not familiar with, at least not by this name: what's hua jio?

    thanks again!

    marlena

  13. Helen, this is GREAT! a million thank yous, i love the description of the garlic pickled in vinegar (a great favourite of mine) and the chile paste (i always travel with a jar of it)....

    i also note that you have a pickles foodblog which i am going to have to check out....

    i love pickles!

    thank you again!

    x marlena

  14. i was reading a description about this lamb broth, Yangrou Paomo, in which the flat bread is broken up and thrown in, and there is a bowl of raw garlic to spoon in as well. i must admit that anything with a bowl of raw garlic to spoon in will catch my attention, also i love lamb. so its a cold day here in britain, we're all down with colds and flu, and i'm thinking: this is the soup for me. today.

    recipe anyone?

    thanks,

    marlena

  15. i had a fabulous canape of "roast duck" (ie peking duck) in beijing, in which the duck meat was made into a sort of "chicken salad" ie with mayo, topped onto a crisp canape cracker thingie, and topped with a layer of crisp fatty deeeelish-ious duck skin.

    i ate three, then noticed that everyone else ate one or two. so i stopped for the sake of politeness. anyhow, i think it was in Royal restaurant, the one near capital tower.

  16. .

    I've a Campania question: are there other recipes in Campania that call for bechamel? It just seems so E-R to me, or at least more northern in flavor.

    sometimes a degree of richness based on bechamel does co-exist in the otherwise sleekly tomato-evoo-basil leaf Neapolitan palate. a leftover of the French chefs who cooked for the aristocrats during the days when naples was part of the kingdom of....whichever kingdom it was part of......

  17. When I wrote my 1986 (!) book, Sun-Drenched Cuisine, my editor said before we went to press: I think we'll be seeing a lot of sun-drenched stuff out there (she was speaking also about the whole topic of a cuisine defined by its concept of being linked to the flavors of the sun).

    ditto for hot and spicy (1985).

    but they are not the only ones, and one can't really protect oneself from being ripped off. well, most of us can't. and just give up. and also when it comes to concepts, sometimes it is a unique and original one, and sometimes it is in the ether, one never knows and cannot prove......

  18. Oto's Japanese (and other asian foods, also some western foods, often surprising ones such as tamales or lets see, it was something jewish...) anyhow, an amazing array of noodles and good fish, lots of frozen things and rice and shoyu, kimchi, different vegetables in season.....a great place to shop for inspiration as well as japanese specialist goodies......the new location is much larger than the older one was, so offers more stuff.......

    on freeport blvd, in hollywood park, past the big raleys on the way towards the executive airport......

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