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Let's Talk LaBan


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#31 Rich Pawlak

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 02:14 PM

What I think is funny is that fact that LaBan's sidebar appeared in the form of "Or Try These", so he's essentially promoting the place to begin with!  It seems to me that he's just saying "I had a bad meal here, maybe you won't."  I'm guessing that he thought the restaurant had SOME redeeming qualities if he is going to encourage other people to try the place.

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Yeah, but how hard is it for him to REMEMBER WHAT HE ATE AT Chops?!?!?!?

FWIW, I enjoyed my dinner at Chops recently, and said so in my review forMAINLINE Magazine. And I actually remembered what I ate.
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#32 Rich Pawlak

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 02:16 PM

[...]Inqwaster food critic[....]


Inqwaster :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:




Dan Gross is using a term that his predecessor and mentor, Stu Bykofsky, used in his column for years.
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#33 MarketStEl

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 02:20 PM

Dan Gross is using a term that his predecessor and mentor, Stu Bykofsky, used in his column for years.

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What I miss by not reading the Daily News regularly.

Gotta run. There's another murder/house fire/suicide/drug bust involving a crooked politician in Darby/Folcroft/Chester/Upper Darby/Springfield on the front page of the Daily Times, I see.
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#34 philadining

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 02:31 PM

I think it's a little unclear about what Laban actually ate, we for now only have the restaurant's claim that he was served something else, and that LaBan apologized for "the confusion."

And I was perplexed for a while about how the restaurant could be so sure about what he ordered, and had at first assumed he'd been recognized. But I think that's not what happened, I now presume from the comments in the Daily News story that his order was discussed when the owner called LaBan after the comment was published. I can only presume that in the course of the discussion LaBan described what he had, and the owner determined that he had not ordered a strip steak.

It's obviously problematic that the only comments from LaBan come second-hand via the aggrieved party, so I wouldn't be so sure that LaBan "apologized for the 'confusion,' admitted he did not have a strip steak and 'saw [Plotkin's] point,'" at least not in so many words...

Rich, do you know what cut of meat is used for their Steak Sandwich? I'm still wondering, presuming the owner's account is correct, whether LaBan had A strip steak, just not THE strip steak.

The irony is, as noted above, that I too read the blurb as more positive than negative, portraying Chops as like The Palm, with great crabcakes. The complaint about the salad and the steak read like he was surprised that this last visit wasn't up to snuff, that it was generally a good place.

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#35 Vadouvan

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 03:19 PM

You thought Laban had problems, its just a silly lawsuit, these people should be saving the legal fees and buying better meat.

Look at what Frank Bruni is going through....

http://chinagrillmgt...nse_NYTimes.pdf

#36 jason32

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 03:21 PM

I recalled this issue coming up in Laban's Q & A forum and went back to take a look and in Laban's opening comment for the 2/6/07 forum he included this:

...Also, I got an upset – though quite professional – call this morning from a restaurateur who bristled at an unsavory two-sentence capsule review of his place that appeared recently in my column. I hope he writes in today, as I encouraged, so we can discuss the issue in the forum...


Further on in this chat, there was this following exchange:

Q: Let me guess the angry restaraunt guy. Alex Plotkin CHOPS. You were right on the money there though. Im curious on the grade of beef they are serving there
Don, Glenside 2/06/07
A: You might be right there, Don. But I'd like to let Alex speak for himself. He plans to write in, he says, but we may not get to it until next week.
Craig LaBan 2/06/07


Looks like he got to a lawyer instead.

#37 Rich Pawlak

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Posted 21 February 2007 - 04:14 PM

Rich, do you know what cut of meat is used for their Steak Sandwich?  I'm still wondering, presuming the owner's account is correct, whether LaBan had A strip steak, just not THE strip steak.

The irony is, as noted above, that I too read the blurb as more positive than negative, portraying Chops as like The Palm, with great crabcakes. The complaint about the salad and the steak read like he was surprised that this last visit wasn't up to snuff, that it was generally a good place.

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I woulkd guess that the meat in the sandwich is sirloin, but not expesnive sliced strip steak. I read Laban's sidebar the same way that you did, save the quibble about the strip and the salad, but if he didnt EAT the strip, he should write a correction, as any professional would do.

I think CHOPS is a VERY good restaurant, offering very good value,with a top notch waitstaff and a very affordable and interesting wine list.
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#38 guzzirider

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 09:58 AM

For those who may be interested, Craig LaBan is speaking at the Central Library this Wed:

http://libwww.librar...r/c...3A00:00'}

 
Craig LaBan | The Philadelphia Inquirer Restaurant Guide  (A)
Wednesday, February 28, 2007 at 7:00PM
Central Library
Ticket Info: FREE. No tickets required. For Info: 215-567-4341.

As Philadelphia’s restaurant scene continues to grow, finding the perfect place for dinner can be a challenge. Philadelphia Inquirer food critic, Craig LaBan is an ideal guide for those who want to discover the city’s best dining. Whether it’s a decadent splurge or a sandwich at the neighborhood bar, La Ban’s new book gives you his 76 Philadelphia favorites and more than 500 capsule reviews of local eateries. The winner of a James Beard Foundation Award for his restaurant reviews, La Ban has been the Inquirer’s restaurant critic since 1998.


__Jason

#39 aaronwcpa

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 01:31 PM

I wish I could attend but I am busy that evening.
Is he going to wear a mask?
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#40 guzzirider

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 01:50 PM

I wish I could attend but I am busy that evening.
Is he going to wear a mask?

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Yeah... I can't make it either. I too was curious if he was going to be in disguise...

__Jason

#41 KatieLoeb

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 02:00 PM

Would someone please go and take a picture for me? I need something more up to date than the one every single restaurant in town has on the bulletin board of him in the tuxedo.

I would go but I'll be working...
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#42 Rich Pawlak

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Posted 26 February 2007 - 02:34 PM

At his Penn bookstore appearance, he wore a wizard's cape, cowl and zorro-like mask, and a grey fright wig, so no chhance he'll play it straight at the Free Library either. Weird.
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#43 I_call_the_duck

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 02:21 PM

I was hoping you were joking, but found this from PhilaFoodie's blog. Weird indeed. Then again Ruth Reichl was no stranger to using disguises.

Any chance somebody could follow him backstage or to the men's room?

Edited by I_call_the_duck, 27 February 2007 - 02:31 PM.

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#44 Capaneus

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Posted 27 February 2007 - 02:59 PM

I was hoping you were joking, but found this from PhilaFoodie's blog. Weird indeed.  Then again Ruth Reichl was no stranger to using disguises.

Any chance somebody could follow him backstage or to the men's room?

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I think Mr. LaBan is perfectly aware of the humor involved in the whole song-and-dance. Showing up for a public appearance in a transparently silly costume looks that way to me, anyway. I expect that for working occasions he goes the Ruth Reichl way, and uses more realistic disguises.

#45 zeffer81

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Posted 01 March 2007 - 10:10 AM

Saw LaBan last night. He came out with a cape, zorro mask and grey wig and beard. Nice look! Read an essay from his book about dining on the Wildwood boardwalk then answered questions for about an hour. Topics ranged from his background and career path to his "gone but not forgotten restaurants." An interesting night although some questions were much more in depth and interesting than others.

#46 Phila-Foodie

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Posted 01 March 2007 - 05:31 PM

Saw LaBan last night.  He came out with a cape, zorro mask and grey wig and beard.  Nice look!  Read an essay from his book about dining on the Wildwood boardwalk then answered questions for about an hour.  Topics ranged from his background and career path to his "gone but not forgotten restaurants."  An interesting night although some questions were much more in depth and interesting than others.

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zeffer81: Did anyone ask him about the Chops lawsuit? If so, what was his response?

-Phila-Foodie

#47 zeffer81

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Posted 02 March 2007 - 08:42 AM

I wanted to but didn't want to put him on the spot. Also, there were a lot of questions that went unasked. I would log into his Tuesday chat to get more info.

#48 Vadouvan

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:16 AM

click

http://www.nytimes.c...html?ref=dining

#49 gfweb

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:27 AM

You thought Laban had problems, its just a silly lawsuit, these people should be saving the legal fees and buying better meat.

Look at what Frank Bruni is going through....

http://chinagrillmgt...nse_NYTimes.pdf

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Bruni deserves it, I think. Did you see his recent review of some steakhouse/stripclub combo in NYC. Juvenile is the kindest adjective I can use. Hope I don't get sued! :-)

#50 Vadouvan

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Posted 07 March 2007 - 10:51 AM

Amuse Biatch has a funny take on it...

http://amuse-biatch....bel/Frank Bruni

#51 Alec Hart

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 09:27 AM

Mr. LaBan might not be anonymous for much longer according to PW.

http://www.philadelp.../articles/14865

I know this is off-topic, but this article makes me wonder if Craig LaBan is his real name or a pseudonym. It seems to me that it would be much easier to remain anonymous by writing under a pseudonym instead of his real name.

I mean, he must get mail, use a credit card and have a bank account. If his real name is John Smith and he writes under the name Craig LaBan, then none of those things matter. How does he keep his next door neighbors from knowing who he is? And if he goes to a restaurant like Lacroix for 3 visits in a a 1-2 week timespan, tries just about everything on the menu and pays cash, aren't they going to notice?

How easy is it to get a credit card in a fake name? Since the Patriot Act and the increase in identity theft, I imagine it's very difficult.

Basically, I am thinking about this because I wonder if after being "unmasked," he can just pick up and move to a new city and start writing under a new pseudonym and no one will know that "Greg Level" is really "Craig LaBan" who is in actuality, "John Smith."

-- Alec

#52 Andrew Fenton

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 09:40 AM

From what I understand, he usually doesn't eat alone. So the credit card isn't a problem: he just gets one of his dining companions to pay, then the Inquirer reimburses them.

#53 Capaneus

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 10:50 AM

Mr. LaBan might not be anonymous for much longer according to PW.

http://www.philadelp.../articles/14865

I know this is off-topic, but this article makes me wonder if Craig LaBan is his real name or a pseudonym. It seems to me that it would be much easier to remain anonymous by writing under a pseudonym instead of his real name.

I mean, he must get mail, use a credit card and have a bank account. If his real name is John Smith and he writes under the name Craig LaBan, then none of those things matter. How does he keep his next door neighbors from knowing who he is? And if he goes to a restaurant like Lacroix for 3 visits in a a 1-2 week timespan, tries just about everything on the menu and pays cash, aren't they going to notice?

How easy is it to get a credit card in a fake name? Since the Patriot Act and the increase in identity theft, I imagine it's very difficult.

Basically, I am thinking about this because I wonder if after being "unmasked," he can just pick up and move to a new city and start writing under a new pseudonym and no one will know that "Greg Level" is really "Craig LaBan" who is in actuality, "John Smith."

-- Alec

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In order: as far as I know, he does not keep his neighbors from knowing who he is; the rest of your objections are covered by the fact that, as I understand it, he does not make the reservation himself, goes in a group, and, I expect, pays in cash. I have no direct experience of any of this, mind you, but I do know a couple of people who regularly participate in the process.

I have wondered myself if he uses his real name. I've been told he does, but it strikes me that I wouldn't want to do it that way, if I were in his position.

In any case, given that there is, supposedly, a photograph of him hanging in many kitchens in town, I expect that full exposure would mostly mean that his disguise budget would need to go up.

#54 Alcibiades

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 12:53 PM

While he may wear disguises while reviewing, on the three occasions I've seen him in restaurants doing reviews he was not in disguise. I believe the disguises are worn when he's making public appearances. Think about it: if he believes himself to be anonymous while dining then there's no need for a disguise, only when he's drawing attention to himself by attending an event with his name on the program would he need to be under cover.

#55 Rich Pawlak

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 03:13 PM

He most always utilizes a disguise, unless he trusts that he is not at all known to the restaurant, as in a distant suburban place, or an ethnic restaurant.
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#56 Alcibiades

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Posted 19 June 2007 - 03:23 PM

As I say, one the three occasions I've had the pleasure of hosting him (at 2 different restaurants) he has not been in disguise. I know this because he lives around the corner from me and I see him frequently. Guess he always felt comfortable.

#57 philadining

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Posted 21 June 2007 - 09:25 AM

Very interesting analysis of new developments in the Chops v. Laban lawsuit over at Philafoodie.

Apparently the restaurant owner has conceded that Laban did not order a "steak sandwich without the bread" but in fact a "Steak Frites." The exact cut of meat used there is still not clear, but it's Laban's assertion that it was billed as strip steak by the waiter.

The other interesting twist is the plaintiff insisting on a videotaped deposition of Laban, possibly resulting in his face being shown in open court.

Several good points brought up by Philafoodie about the various parties' possible motivations, and potential messages embedded in legal language.

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#58 Holly Moore

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Posted 21 June 2007 - 10:45 AM

Some thoughts about a food critic being recognized:

1. Chances are that, as rumored, Laban's pics are out there hanging on some kitchen walls. This always seems to be the case, no matter how protective the critic is of his appearance. Does that give a bad restaurant, which happens to recognize Laban because of a pic on their wall and therefore gives him much better food and service than the typical diner, an unfair advantage over a good restaurant whom has no idea that Laban is gracing their dining room. Would not a recognizable critic level the playing field?

2. In court the Inquirer argued, “Craig LaBan’s photographic or video image, as well as the methods he uses while reviewing restaurants, meet the definition of trade secrets … Keeping this information secret assists Mr. LaBan in performing his job and thus has economic value to him. His anonymity allows him to better assess what the average customer will be served because the restaurant does not know the meal is being reviewed by the Inquirer.” If a critic's anonymity is so essential, must that critic resign once people start recognizing him? Would it be unethical to continue critiquing restaurants once the critic is recognizable?

3. On the other hand, a known critic in the dining room creates added stress in both the kitchen and the dining room. Turn-out and service during a mealtime rush is already extremely high stress. A critic in the dining room could be the straw that throws a kitchen and service staff, even a very competent kitchen and service staff, into the weeds resulting in an atypically poor meal service and critic experience.

4. A review can have two purposes that could but don't necessarily merge into a single purpose. The review relates the critic's actual dining experience. The review may or may not accurately portray a restaurant's ability to consistently provide good dining experiences. A review that does the latter gives the potential diner much better information than a review that merely relates a critic's actual dining experience. My experience has been that one can gather a more realistic feel of a restaurant's capabilities and consistency by being the fly on the wall during a couple of meal services - spending most of one's time in the kitchen and some in the dining room observing. A kitchen turning out a hundred or two hundred meals a service isn't going to be able to clean up its act just because Craig Laban is standing in the corner watching.

Edited by Holly Moore, 21 June 2007 - 11:05 AM.

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#59 guzzirider

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Posted 25 June 2007 - 07:47 AM

I think I'm going to have to be the dissenting opinion on Tinto. LaBan seemed one step closer to God with each bite, but we went in for dinner there not too long ago, and it really didn't do much for me. Two things that I really loved was the dish of kobe beef and a truffled poached egg in consomme, which was outstanding, and also the La Peral blue that was on the cheese plate - wow is that good cheese.

On the flip side, a loser for me was the mussels. You can find some really good pots of mussels in this town, and after some of those, this tiny crock of mussels was a bit of a let-down.

Generally, the food was quite good, but in the end, I couldn't shake the feeling that we just dropped 250 beans on a bottle of wine and some appetizers. I wouldn't mind going back to sit at the bar and just have that kobe dish with a glass of wine... but beyond that, I'm just not that into it.

Sorry... I feel that I've blasphemed... I need to go beat myself with a scourge now...

__Jason

Edited by guzzirider, 25 June 2007 - 07:48 AM.


#60 philadining

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Posted 25 June 2007 - 09:04 AM

Providing yet more evidence for the variation of personal impressions: I specifically loved the mussels at Tinto. Our impressions were pretty similar to LaBan's, we had lots of wow moments, and didn't feel like we spent a fortune.

I wonder if it was the general sense of Tinto's quality, or a sense of what LaBan likes, that led Foobooz voters to overwhelmingly correctly guess the 3-Bell review ahead of time....

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