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[uhockey]

I'll apologize in advance for the length - pictures are on my website and for personal (nonprofessional or affiliated) use only - but here is a longwinded review of the extended tasting for 12/30/09 at Per Se.

http://uhockey.blogs...ew-york-ny.html

…in traditional fashion I had planned far in advance – having always wanted to experience the madness of New York City at New Years I booked my plane tickets in late September and had arranged to stay with my friends in Queens. With that planning out of the way the only questions that remained were whether or not I could get the necessary reservations – a 30 minute wait on the phone on October 30th said yes – reservations for one at S. Pelligrino’s best restaurant in North America on December 30th, a mere 10 months after my visit to the former best restaurant in North America on February 17th – both Thomas Keller institutions, both highly anticipated. Having experienced a sublime extended tasting at TFL and having been on call Christmas Day (with only 2 days off since Black Friday) I decided to make Per Se equally special and celebrate my holidays by once again requesting an extended tasting. Although the combination of downed website and ever-busy phone lines made the tasting more difficult to achieve than that at TFL, a call from one of the restaurant managers assured it could and would be done when I confirmed my reservation on 12/27.

Arriving at the Time Warner Center around 5:00pm I browsed the shops for a while before making my way up the escalators to the 4th floor – while I know some complain that Per Se is located in a “mall” I personally did not find it to be problematic in the least. While I certainly appreciate TFL’s laid back country feel, I unfortunately went on a day when it was raining and with stores closing up as early as 4:30pm there is absolutely nothing to do in Yountville on a rainy day. Arriving at the famous non-functional blue door (and humorously watching a couple attempt to open the door by turning the nob) there were already four other couples waiting in the faux-garden as the restaurant and not yet opened. Stopping shortly to snap a few pictures the bilateral sliding glass doors quickly opened and two young ladies emerged to welcome us, collect our bags and coats, and even to take pictures of a few of us in front of the doors.

Bags checked each party was led through the Salon up to the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Central Park and into the dining room – the setting at Per Se, once you get past it being in the mall, is breath-taking. Seated at a rounded booth on the second floor of the restaurant with a full view of every table in the room and the vastness of Central Park I was next greeted by a female server and my captain, Christopher. Sparkling or Still – always Still – and soon after a glass of champagne – just like The Laundry. Acknowledging that the Chef was prepared to make a special menu sans-beef/veal flesh I was next asked if I’d like to see the “normal” menu in case there was anything that caught my eye – assenting to this request I browsed the menu and stated that if acceptable I’d very much like the egg dish from the tasting of vegetables and the foie gras from the chef’s tasting to be incorporated into my meal. “Not a problem” was the response and I then settled in for what would be 315 minutes of near perfection.

In order to not belabor the discussion of service at Per Se I will note that Christopher was every bit as good as Reuben, my server at TFL and the standard by which all servers since have been judged. Gracious and pleasant, inquisitive and informative, interesting and interested – flawless – and when he learned that I was not a wine drinker but not opposed to wine he actually went out of his way to provide complimentary 1oz servings of various wines to both teach me about wine and to compliment the food. His ancillary staff was also quite good, but unlike at the Laundry I felt that bread service was slow (I actually had to ask for butter and bread after my 6th course while other tables received it immediately after the first) and my water glass actually reached empty twice – minor details for sure, but details none the less.

Kicking off the meal, exactly like the one in Yountville, were Keller’s signature amuses bouche – a pair of gougeres and a salmon coronet – both of which were every bit as excellent as those previous. A bit more conversation with Christopher and his staff followed – talk of the exhibits at MoMA I’d just visited, plans for New Years, dining recommendations for both New York and elsewhere (Marea and Manresa being the two most discussed, along with Alinea and TFL,) and more flowed more like a conversation between friends than a conversation between server and guest.

Arriving shortly after the expected amuses was my first proper dish of the evening, at first glance and smell 4-5 caramelized Brussels Sprout leaves in a small bowl. Finished tableside by Chris the bowl was next filled with a thick soup and topped with a creamy mousse to form what was named Pumpkin Veloute – Brussels Sprout Leaves and “Quatre Epices” Mousse. Thick in its own right the soup was the very essence of pumpkin and stirring in the mousse – a blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and coriander – formed what can only be described as warm pumpkin pie interestingly sweetened only by the crispy caramelized Brussels sprouts.

Following the soup, again like my meal at The Laundry, was the mother of pearl spoon and Oysters and Pearls – Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. Enough has been said of this single dish to write a book and it once again wowed with the oysters actually tasting even sweeter on this occasion than the last. While not quite as amazing as Savoy’s Colours of Caviar, this dish still amazes me given my overall lack of enthusiasm for both caviar and oysters when served solo.

Following the Oysters appeared a pair of chopsticks and the first of three light and unique seafood pairings served on a mirrored silver plate. Entitled Nantucket Bay Scallop – English Cucumber, Daikon Radish, Sake Gelee, this dish was the first “wow” of the night. Featuring plump and sweet scallops served nearly raw alongside a salad of crispy daikon and smooth English cucumber with a drizzle of intoxicatingly smooth sake reduction this dish demonstrated how beautifully fresh seafood and simple vegetables can taste when paired appropriately. Light, fresh, and a great introduction to the following dishes.

Next on the tasting, this time served in a large bowl, was Spanish Mackerel – Cauliflower Florettes, Meyer Lemon and Espelette Pepper “Aigre Doux.” Strong in flavor yet mild for a mackerel this dish was a crudo to the scallop’s sashimi – essentially cured in a sweet and spicy pepper vinegar/oil comination and topped with a millimeter thin slice of Meyer lemon. Accompanying the dish and adding some contrast were small cauliflower florettes, barely cooked, and poached in lemon.

Continuing the progression of seafood preparations (from raw to cured to cooked) was hot smoked Columbia River Sturgeon – Yukon Gold Potato Blini, Granny Smith Apple and Scallion Salad – the second “wow” moment of the evening. As Sturgeon is rivaled only by John Dory as my favorite fish this dish was met with high expectations the moment it was described and not only met but surpassed all of them. Smoky and well cooked yet melt-in-the-mouth tender the piece of sturgeon actually laid in between the two thin slices of “blini” while the borders of the dish were formed by the slices of crisp apple and the “cream” atop the Blini served forth the very essence of mild scallions and butter.

Hoping for another great seafood prep I was surprised – and delighted – when my next dish arrived. As requested, dish six of the evening was the Coddled Squire Hill Farms’ Ameraucana Hen Egg – Ragout of Black Winter Truffles, Hazelnuts and Pickled Red Cabbage with Hollandaise Mousseline and Brioche Melba. Complex in name and even more so in flavor there is really no way to describe the myriad layers of taste, texture, and aroma of this dish. Starting from top down the first item to note was the crispy brioche melba chip atop – a crunchy layer that shattered with pressure from the spoon releasing the perfume of fresh truffle. Taking a bite, first of the mousseline/egg-custard mix and then of the custard along with the cabbage and hazelnuts , the senses were awakened at all angles by sweet hollandaise, creamy egg yolk, sour cabbage, crunchy yet smooth hazelnuts – all with the overhanging essence of truffle, butter, and poached egg. An absolute must order my second or third favorite savory of the meal.

Wanting to soak up every last drop of the egg (I dunk my toast my egg-yolk and don’t care where I am, it is delicious) I next found myself requesting bread – I honestly think the ancillary servers forgot because Chris was taking such good care of my table. Arriving less than 2 minutes after my request were two Parker-House Rolls and a fleur de sel butter from the Loire Valley plus an unsalted cow butter from Straus Family Creamery in California – all three quite good but certainly not as fabulous as the pain au lait and the famous Animal Farm butter from The French Laundry. Additional bread options during the meal included a chewy and salty pretzel roll, a delectable and crisp chapeau sourdough, an epi-baguette akin to the table bread at Bouchon, and a strong Riesling Rye – my favorite of the group. Additionally, served with the cheese course, were slices of Lemon Poppyseed and Raisin Walnut.

Continuing the tasting and stemming from a conversation about my overall dislike of mustard, yet being impressed by the manner in which both Achatz and Kinch used it in iced preparations, Chris stated he’d talk to Chef Benno about somehow fitting mustard into the menu. Sure as promised, dish seven was comprised of Marcho Farm’s Ris de Veu with Violet Artichokes, Fennel Bulb, and Pickled Mustard Seed Emulsion. Delicate and perfectly pan seared the sweetbreads were amongst the best I’d ever tasted and when paired with the surprisingly sweet artichokes, pungent fennel bulb, and spicy mustard seed the overall gustatory sensation of the dish was actually quite akin to a hotdog – something I’d certainly not expected and evidence that when used appropriately there probably isn’t a food or spice that can’t be made to fit my palate.

Dish eight was another dish from the tasting of vegetables and one that had caught my eye when browsing the online menu in the weeks leading up to my meal. Entitled Greenmarket Carrot Pudding – Papadum, Poached Royal Blenheim Apricots and Parsley Shoots with Madras Curry Vinaigrette. Having never heard of papadum before I was informed by Chris that it was actually a type of Indian bread and that this dish was the chef’s take on Gajar Halva – a traditional Indian dish – and a cuisine with which I must say I’ve not had much experience. On first smell I was immediately struck by the scents of cinnamon, cumin, curry, and vinegar and on first bite I noted all of the above and more. A beautiful dish in both appearance and flavor the pudding itself actually reminded me of sweet potato pie with hints of apricot, wine, and carrot while the papadum lent a degree of crispiness and spice.

Dish nine – and finally a misstep. Imagine that situation where someone tries to do something extra special for you and it just doesn’t quite work – not that it is “bad,” but it just doesn’t live up to the hype – at Per Se that was “Quail in a Jar.” Presented in the bottle at table-side first and then taken to the kitchen for plating this dish featured Cavendish Farm’s White Quail stuffed with foie gras and allowed to steep in its own juices for greater than 6 months forming a jelly layer around the outside and a mélange of meaty flavors within. Served alongside petite lettuces and finished elaborately at tableside with 100 year old balsamic vinegar the dish was additionally presented with warm brioche (replaced as it began to cool) and a sampling of six salts. While good, the overall flavor of the dish was largely a fatty quail flavor as opposed to the Foie Gras and the congealed pate did not spread appropriately on the brioche, making it largely irrelevant. While I was certainly quite honored to receive a dish generally reserved for “VIPs” the overall effect of this dish was nowhere near as pleasing as the Foie Gras at The French Laundry and I was further annoyed when I watched a neighboring table ooh and ah about the menu Foie prep which I had requested – it looked quite similar to that which I experienced in Napa.

As much as I regret not having tasted the Foie Gras I had hoped for, the following dish was not only a return to everything I’d expected from Per Se, but one of the ten best dishes I ate in 2009. Entitled lengthily as “herb Roasted Fillet of Mediterranean John Dory wrapped in Marcho Farm’s Coeur de Veau, Hen of the Woods Mushroom, Salsify and Watercress Leaves, Sauce Beurre Rouge” the dish was exactly as complex as it sounds. Beginning with 2-3oz of clean and supple rosemary accented fish wrapped in 3 peppery slices of veal heart the proteins were quickly pan seared and placed delicately atop an admixture of cooked salsify and watercress plus crispy hen of the woods mushrooms and topped tableside with a savory reduction of clarified butter, pan drippings from the fish/heart, and red wine – to call this the best “surf n’ turf” ever would be an understatement – it was the best dish I’ve yet encountered at a Thomas Keller restaurant.

Following the Dory – more offal with seafood – this time in the form of Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster – “Crete de Coq,” Sunchokes, Garden Chervil. Having never tasted cock’s comb before I started first with a single bite – somewhat chewy with the consistency of well prepared baby octopus and a smoky flavor not unlike pork. Digging further into the dish I was next met by Keller’s standard butter poached lobster tail, this time a west-coast variety with more pronounced sweetness than the Maine tail from TFL, and the roots of garden chervil (much like a turnip in taste and texture) and sweet sunchokes. Much like the previous dish this plate paired a meaty earth-tone with a sweet seafood quite elegantly.

The following dish was a swift change of pace but at the same time a welcome break in the heavy offal dishes. Simply titled Hand Cut Tagliatelle with Black Italian Truffles this dish was exactly what you are supposed to do with a truffle – display them whole, slice them fresh, and pair them with something that highlights their taste, texture, and aroma. Smooth and silky pasta with a light butter sauce (no cheese this time, unlike the gnocchi at the Laundry) simply served as a backdrop to the generous serving of truffle – one of the more hearty and aromatic truffles I’ve had the opportunity to taste. Really – what else can you say about this dish – truffles, butter, and pasta – delicious.

Moving towards the savory finales, my next dish would have easily served as the “main” course at Daniel, Savoy, or Robuchon – but it was not. Titled All-day Braised Snake River Farms’ Kurobuta Pork Jowl – Buckwheat Crepe, Scallion Emincee, Tokyo Turnips, French Prune Puree with Tellicherry Pepper Jus – another delicious balance of sweet and savory, fatty and fibrous, pungent and refined. Tasting almost Hispanic – perhaps like an divine fajita – the pork itself literally melted in the mouth and mingled beautifully with the crisp yet delicate crepe stuffed with prune. Topped with shredded turnip and scallion greens with pan seared scallions flanking each side the dish was completed with a sweet pepper sauce somewhat similar in flavor to barbeque sauce.

The true main course, and on par with the egg ragout for 2nd/3rd favorite of the night, was Elysian Fields Farm’s Rouelle D’agnueau – “Langue et Ris d’Agneau,” Celeriac Gratin, Young Beets, Parsley Shoots, Celery Branch Ribbons, Borscht Sauce. Towards the upper left of the plate sat a 1-2oz piece of lamb shoulder and immediately next to it a cheesy concoction of celeriac that tasted much akin to au gratin potatoes, but sweeter. To the right of the plate a single lamb sweetbread – something I’d never tasted before but somewhat less sweet but more creamy and gamy than that of a cow, topped with another smaller piece of lamb. Finishing the dish, in thin ribbons, were pan-seared slices of velvety and smooth lamb’s tongue, crisp beets, and ribbons of crispy vegetables and an earthy beet jus.

At this point Chris stopped by to ask “how are you doing?” and questioned how much dessert I could handle. Explaining that I was actually doing quite well and that the pace was perfect Chris stated “that is what we aim for with these extended tastings – I’ll let the pastry team know you’re ready for their best.” Stepping away my butter and bread dish were taken and a new bread plate plus bread selections for the cheese course were presented. For the cheese, an elaborate presentation compared to the menu options - Epoisses with Fork Crushed Potatoes, Celery Branch Ribbons, and picked sunchokes – was served. Although I had heard of Epoisses I had never actually tasted it until this point and I have to say both the odor and the flavor were a shock to the system. Served warm, somewhat like an au gratin considering the potatoes - the orange/red hue blended nicely with the picked sunchokes while the crispy celery actually acted to tame the pungent, acidic, and heavily nuanced flavor. A fan of milder cheeses generally I have to say I’d not have ordered this cheese by my own choosing but was actually quite impressed with the dish overall, especially when spreading a bit on the raisin bread.

Moving next to the sweets, first a palate cleanser in the form of Mandarin Orange Sorbet with wild Peppercorn Sable, Orange Tuile with Nyons Extra Virgin Olive Oil Emulsion. Smooth and icy the sorbet itself tasted the very essence of Mandarin orange while the peppercorns and tuile provided a bit of contrast and the thickened Olive Oil beneath the sorbet provided a smooth and glassy finish.

Progressing with more citrus fruit flavors, the next dish arrived from one of the ancillary servers without much description aside from “grapefruit float.” Reviewing the menu later this dish was called Grapefruit Champagne Float – Ruby Red Grapefruit, Fleur de Sel Sable, Vanilla Ice Cream, Grapefruit Soda, Champagne Granite and although I remember liking it, the only memory I have of this dish was thinking it tasted mostly like a salted and citrusy frozen margarita.

Arriving shortly after my Grapefruit was finished Chris appeared with a smile stating “I’m sure you had it at the Laundry, but I can’t imagine a trip to Per Se without Coffee and Doughnuts.” Every bit as perfect as the version in Napa – a light and airy piping hot doughnut and hole served alongside a slowly melting and creamy semifreddo that (if possible) tasted even better than I remember. Also accompanying this dish was Per Se’s coffee service – a nutty blend with notes of fruit and chicory, more Bouchon than French Laundry.

Starting to feel full but not yet uncomfortable I stood up momentarily to browse the room, visit the restroom, and let things settle. Returning to my table I found a fresh napkin folded and a bit of commotion at the table next to me – 3 affluent gentlemen – one of whom was clearly a regular and apparently “allergic to the smell of coffee coming from my table,” were re-arranging seats. Overhearing his complaint (impossible, from a medical standpoint) I merely chuckled as his friends apologized profusely and offered to buy me a glass of “anything I’d like.” Thanking them I declined the offer and simply sat amazed at the audacity of some people – for what its worth I heard him note that the service at El Bulli is “no where near the quality of Per Se,” – he’d purportedly been there twice and to Per Se “Dozens” of times.

Following this short delay (thankful as I somehow found more stomach space) was my first “proper” dessert - Pear and Caramel – Madagascar Vanilla-Poached Bartlett Pear, Caramel Mousse, Pear Pate de Fruit, Glace au Beurre Noisette. A tasting in its own right this dish featured three different “pear forms” – a creamy pear biscuit topped with butter ice cream, a thin slice of poached pear rolled around a smooth caramel mousse, and a ball of poached pear with heavy accents of cinnamon and vanilla perched atop a macaron-esque pear cookie and topped with another thin slice of pear. Flanking the three forms were also three cubes of pear gelee. Featuring many pale colors this dish was very calming and smooth – and it would’ve been an excellent end to any meal…

Expecting the trail of mignardises to follow I was surprised when another fork and spoon were laid out after the pear was taken away – and even more surprised when the next dish arrived. Entitled “Mont Blanc” this dish was Per Se’s take on Tiramisu (my second favorite genre of dessert, behind only bread pudding.) Beautifully presented the dish featured a Chestnut Genoise, Swiss Meringue, Chocolate-Juniper Cremeux, Rum Parfait, and Marron Glace with Chocolate Ice Cream and honestly made all previous incarnations of tiramisu outside of Jean-Philippe pale in comparison. Crackling chocolate coating over light and airy cake and cremeux, deep and fragrant chocolate atop an airy meringue and a delicious gelatinous cream of chestnut puree – a flawless dessert only further enhanced by top notes of rum.

Still licking my lips and enjoying another cup of coffee after the Mont Blanc I was brought another small spoon and the first of the escort of mignardises – a creamy pot of sweet-milk panna-cotta served over huckleberry compote. Only 2-3 bites, perfect after such a meal.

Arriving next, directly borrowed from Napa, was the three tiered case of caramels, pistachio nougats, and truffles (dark, light, white) and the porcelain container of chocolate covered hazelnuts. An additional surprise was a small jar of miniature mints and cherry candies and the number of chocolates available at Per Se – nearly twice as many as The French Laundry. Selecting eight including White Cheesecake, Valhrona 77%, Peanut Butter, Maple Nut, Cherry Balsamic, Fleur De Sel, Caramel, and Olive Oil I was particularly impressed by the balsamic and fleur de sel – as good as any chocolatier I’ve yet encountered.

Finally giving up with a few truffles and plenty of candies and nuts left on the table I drank one last cup of coffee and chatted with Christopher for a bit about dining in and around NYC. On requesting a copy of the menu be mailed to me like they did at TFL Chris stated they could do one better and actually produced a copy of the menu that he had personally typed up that evening. In addition to the menu he delivered the night’s take home gift – four S’more “finger sandwiches” with the texture of a Kit-Kat and the flavors of Vanilla Marshmallow, Cinnamon Graham, and Dark Chocolate – and six more chocolates in a small wrapped box “for my friends.” I won’t lie – I ate them the following morning.

Finishing up my coffee and paying the bill I was offered a tour of the kitchen – ENORMOUS in comparison to the version in Yountville and featuring nearly twice as many chefs/stations to fill the space. Leaving around 10:30 (7:30pm in California) the televised display of The French Laundry was bustling whereas the view of Per Se when I ate out West was merely the cleaning crew. Unfortunately I was informed that Chef Benno had left around 9:00 to spend some time with family who was visiting from out of town and as such I didn’t get to meet him, but the rest of the kitchen crew were as welcoming and gracious as expected. Making my way through the kitchen Chris went out of his way to show me two Bahaus items made exclusively for Chef Keller – once again noting that he’d been paying plenty of attention to our conversation and the fact that I’d visited MoMA earlier in the day.

Visiting the lobby and collecting my coat and bag the host and hostess bid me farewell and I made my way out to the now-empty TWC and proceeded to walk back to Penn Station where I’d catch my ride to Queens. Thinking as I walked along about how fortunate I was to experience such a meal the inevitable comparison came to mind – which was better, The French Laundry or Per Se - a difficult decision to be sure. Similar, of course, I think that while I liked Chris better than Reuben, the overall service at The French Laundry is a bit more polished while the cuisine at Per Se is a bit more edgy – still rooted in the perfection built at The French Laundry but perhaps pushing the boundaries a little further. All things considering - from setting to food to service to mood – I think Per Se is exactly what Keller intended, a modern/city take on what he created in Napa and I would undoubtedly return to either in a heartbeat. With that said, if I could choose only one or the other for my “last meal” it would be The Laundry – there is just something about that setting, that farm, and that tiny little city that makes it one of a kind.

[Mussina]

Great report. It sounds like a terrific meal (and I would kill for that quail dish!)

[sickchangeup]

Great report. It sounds like a terrific meal (and I would kill for that quail dish!)

haha - agreed on both counts! That's a pretty solid VIP dish, FG got hooked up with it during his visit that he documented earlier. It's a true old school classic.

And I've dined many times with Christopher, he's great.

On the bread thing, the reason other tables got it after their first course, and you only got it after you asked for it, is that they hold off on bringing the bread until you reach the salad/foie part of the menu - until you are done with the so called canapes. On the regular 9 course menu, salad/foie is the 2nd dish. On your VIP menu, it was the 9th from the looks of it, so if left to their own devices you would have got it then I'm guessing. FG made mention of this on his own report:

Now, up until this point, I had been harboring one nagging bit of resentment about the service at this lunch. Per Se is one of those restaurants where they wait to bring bread and butter until after the amuse. But an amuse had come and, still, no bread and butter.

Then I had a horrible realization: we were still eating amuses. Everything up until this point was just the kitchen warming up. We hadn't really started the meal.

It is a shame you missed out on the Animal Farm butter, Per Se serves it just the same as French Laundry, I just don't think the farm is large enough to ensure that neither restaurant ever runs out. It's also a shame you missed out of the beauty of the French Laundry on a sunny day, the biggest advantage TFL has over Per Se (in my eyes) is the ability to take a mid-lunch stroll through the garden.

The smoked sturgeon canape looks amazing, as does the heart wrapped John Dory. I know they did a "Heart and Sole" dish on one of the offal menus that combined Dover Sole & Heart, not sure if this was similar to that. I really like your menu, they incorporated offal in very well - I still recall the lambs tongue from a dish I had last month, it was delicious!

[Bobster]

Great report. It sounds like a terrific meal (and I would kill for that quail dish!)

Quail In A Jar is indeed wonderful but I do understand about the taste; maybe I was luckier with a more layered cut.

But then I only take one bit with a little brioche (whether this or the foie) and eat the rest "naked".

[uhockey]

Great report. It sounds like a terrific meal (and I would kill for that quail dish!)

haha - agreed on both counts! That's a pretty solid VIP dish, FG got hooked up with it during his visit that he documented earlier. It's a true old school classic.

And I've dined many times with Christopher, he's great.

On the bread thing, the reason other tables got it after their first course, and you only got it after you asked for it, is that they hold off on bringing the bread until you reach the salad/foie part of the menu - until you are done with the so called canapes. On the regular 9 course menu, salad/foie is the 2nd dish. On your VIP menu, it was the 9th from the looks of it, so if left to their own devices you would have got it then I'm guessing. FG made mention of this on his own report:

Now, up until this point, I had been harboring one nagging bit of resentment about the service at this lunch. Per Se is one of those restaurants where they wait to bring bread and butter until after the amuse. But an amuse had come and, still, no bread and butter.

Then I had a horrible realization: we were still eating amuses. Everything up until this point was just the kitchen warming up. We hadn't really started the meal.

It is a shame you missed out on the Animal Farm butter, Per Se serves it just the same as French Laundry, I just don't think the farm is large enough to ensure that neither restaurant ever runs out. It's also a shame you missed out of the beauty of the French Laundry on a sunny day, the biggest advantage TFL has over Per Se (in my eyes) is the ability to take a mid-lunch stroll through the garden.

The smoked sturgeon canape looks amazing, as does the heart wrapped John Dory. I know they did a "Heart and Sole" dish on one of the offal menus that combined Dover Sole & Heart, not sure if this was similar to that. I really like your menu, they incorporated offal in very well - I still recall the lambs tongue from a dish I had last month, it was delicious!

Thanks for the information - good information on the bread service.

Of all the cities I've been to I have to say New York is the best in terms of treating "gourmands" well - people who ask questions, get interested in the kitchen and their servers, etc - they seem to get extra special treatment even if they aren't anyone special. Perhaps it is because there are so many rich folks and expense accounts in NYC that some people take the food for granted, but it seems like people who treat the meal like an experience or a "privilage" get treated well - at Daniel the Chef sent out an extra dessert and a free round of the cheese cart while Picholine served a divine preparation of Wood Pigeon that wasn't on the standard menu for New Years. Honestly, I had a great trip and they only place that really didn't live up to the considerable hype was Ko.

[percyn]

Anyone know if they are offering any special truffle dishes on the lounge menu this week?

[sethd]

First, Per Se doesn't reopen until tomorrow. They stopped serving white truffles before Christmas. They may indeed have a black truffle course on the salon menu tomorrow; recently it has been a pasta dish with shaved black truffles. Per se usually has an updated menu on their website.

[kayu]

I would also add (and this is particularly important for lunch I find) that non-alcoholic drinks are included at Per Se. So you can ask the house to do a non-alcoholic beverage pairing, finish with a cappuccino, and not pay a dime extra.

I don't post as much as I should to these boards, but thought I'd add a cautionary note to the thread. Although individual non-alcoholic beverages are included, non-alcoholic pairings are, in theory, priced at $45 a pop. I had seen this mentioned in an NYT article from 2004, but based on sickchangeup's post, I'd assumed this had since been rescinded. However, at the end of our (excellent) lunch today, an unexpected extra $90 was added to our bill. As you'd expect, the GM was gracious enough to remove the charge -- but this is good to know, especially since I had confirmed with the reservationist that non-alcoholic beverages are included when pre-requesting the pairing over the phone.

For those curious about what our beverage pairings entailed, I'm sad to say that while they were tasty, the drinks' overall lack of creativity was a disappointment. Sparkling French apple cider with the amuses, orange soda with foie gras, Navarro gewürztraminer juice with the fish, the pinot noir juice with the meats, and a very nicely-made iced mocha with dessert. The most (well, only) inspired drink accompanied the final main course (côte d'agneau/cauliflower agnolotti for the chef's/vegetable tasting menu respectively): jasmine-infused almond milk that did a wonderful job not just of pairing our individual dishes, but subtly tied them together.

As others have noted above, the kitchen is in good form. Service, it has to be said, did not ascend to the TFL's feats of telepathy, but the food yesterday was superior to my last visit there. The two highlights were lobster claws and lentils with shaved foie gras 'salami' (yes...); and garlic pain perdu with a fantastically meaty king trumpet mushroom.

Finally, it's worth adding that reservations appear startlingly easy to come by ATM. Both I and the deliriously-content (and VIP'd) solo diner at the next table nabbed OpenTable reservations earlier in the week. When I booked, there were no fewer than three times available to me.

[Bobster]

I'm surprised that the non-alcoholic pairings weren't more pleasing. When I went once with a non-alcoholic drinking friend, the pairings were very interesting, including the most wonderful virgin mojito I've ever had. It was tasty without being oversweet and you really thought it was spiked.

Those two highlights sound heavenly. I think it's time for me to go back soon.

[sickchangeup]

My apologies! Truth be told, I had never asked for a formal non-alcohol pairing, but just rather asked for things here and there as I finished them, even taking suggestions, but clearly there is a difference. I do love the Pinor Noir juice though, JG has it on their menu as well.

Thanks for the link to the article as well, hadn't seen that one.

[kayu]

I'm surprised that the non-alcoholic pairings weren't more pleasing. When I went once with a non-alcoholic drinking friend, the pairings were very interesting, including the most wonderful virgin mojito I've ever had. It was tasty without being oversweet and you really thought it was spiked.

Yes, after reading several enticing accounts of non-alcoholic pairings (yuzu-based spritzer, anise bloody mary...), I was rather surprised too. Did you request the pairing in advance as well, or were the drinks created ad hoc? Part of me actually suspects someone dropped the ball behind the scenes and my pairing request had not been noted in my reservation. I hasten to add this is utterly speculative and that I find this idea almost unimaginable, but our server did appear to have been unaware of my request when I mentioned it to him, and this would explain why nothing especially interesting was served to us until late in the meal.

My apologies! Truth be told, I had never asked for a formal non-alcohol pairing, but just rather asked for things here and there as I finished them, even taking suggestions, but clearly there is a difference. I do love the Pinor Noir juice though, JG has it on their menu as well.

No need for apologies at all. I have your post to thank for introducing me to the idea of a non-alcoholic pairing, and if every drink had evinced the same degree of inspiration either in their pairing or composition as that almond milk, $45 would have been well worth it.

Incidentally, we too love the Navarro juices and have ordered many cases directly from them. Funnily both the gewürztraminer and pinot noir juices at Per Se tasted distinctly more complex than any other time we have experienced them (including at Zuni where we first tried them). Not sure if it was an effect of drinking from generously proportioned wine glasses (we're not quite that fancy at home) or maybe the temperature at which they were served, but the former bore a woody, almost smoked redolence and the latter displayed a lovely, yes, pinot-like, tannic structure. Quite inexplicable.

Speaking of JG, I don't think I have seen others mentioning this, but while in most respects Per Se is outstanding, our dessert courses suffered in comparison with, say, Johnny Iuzzini's marvellous work. Don't want to dwell too much on the negative, but even taking into account the terrific mignardises and ambrosial crème brûlée, the sweet courses were the weakest section of the meal.

Last thing I must mention is that the cheese course was incredible. I'm a purist when it comes to cheeses and tend to favor them cut in large hunks from a cheese cart and minimally adorned. However, the Cashel Blue with Agen prune, Tellicherry pepper sablé, hazelnuts, and cab sauv reduction was the best "arranged" cheese course I've ever had. The meld and contrast of flavor and texture was so masterfully exquisite and delicious that it makes my mouth moisten just thinking about it now.

Edited by kayu, 22 February 2010 - 10:20 AM.

[Smokelaw1]

For anyone who was involved recetnly in my "looking for a long, luxurious tasting menu" thread, you may recall that my wife's only request was that we not return to Per Se. After a wonderful meal at JG, she 1) noticed little things that made Per Se beyond extrodinary and 2) realized that she can ask (both before and during the meal) for changes and treatment that will make the meal everythig she wants it to be. I guess I never did my job of expressing my understadning...restaurants/chefs/servers at this level TRULY and sincerely WANT you to have that meal that you remember for a long time. They will (within certain limits of course) work with you to make sure that everything is as wonderful for you as it can be.

That said...I have been given the all clear to once again reserve a table at PerSe. Now to plan a night in NYC two months in advance, arrange babysitting, and actually be able to keep the reservation!!! I am already obsessing over the meal.

Anything new and wonderful (or otherwise) I should be aware of in the past 10 months?

[Bobster]

Yay! I'm going again in April.

The only thing I can say (probably again) is that if there are food problems/restrictions, it's better for the Chefs to know ahead so they can have solutions ready.

[oakapple]

Yay! I'm going again in April.

The only thing I can say (probably again) is that if there are food problems/restrictions, it's better for the Chefs to know ahead so they can have solutions ready.

If you have one of the "standard food allergies" (e.g., no shellfish, no nuts), it's safe to say they already have a repertoire of alternatives, and they do not need to know in advance of your visit. If you have a more unusual dietary restriction, then perhaps it would be a good idea to give early notice.

[Bobster]

True, Mark, that if it's a standard food allergy they do have things ready but wouldn't it be better that the kitchen knows ahead so that they can be ready?

[oakapple]

True, Mark, that if it's a standard food allergy they do have things ready but wouldn't it be better that the kitchen knows ahead so that they can be ready?

Well, it certainly cannot hurt, but for something like that it probably does not change what they would do anyway.

[Shmily]

Hi...I am still in my serene "after Per Se" mode. We consider this meal a weekend away...and go at least once a year to celebrate special occasions...Still amazing, still unbelievable. Old standards are still on the menu but if possible, I think the meal was even better. One of my favorites, the desserts are better...there is a new pastry chef..and the surprises are wonderful..We tasted 2 of their ice creams..chocolate made by Mast Brothers in Brooklyn that was excellent as was the coffee ice cream...both outstanding. I admit I was concerned about the change with the departure of Jonathan Benno and the addition of Eli Kaimeh to Chef de Cuisine. Not to worry..he was excellent...and those Parker House rolls are still there. We had asked for the lobster sous vide and it is amazing..I just wish they would keep it on the menu always...such a special way of cooking...and our wonderful waiter, Andrew,(surely there must be a better word for the so kind and knowledgeable people who instruct and make certain that your dinner is outstanding there) suggested an outstanding wine that was perfect for us.
However, the most special course were the sweetbreads. They were just amazing. I cannot even describe how special they were. They brought out the dish before plating it and the aroma was excellent as was the puff pastry covering the dish. I have eaten them in restaurants for many years and these were the most superb I have ever had. SO thank you Mr. Kaimeh and Mr. Keller and continue to keep your quality.

[Bobster]

I'm so glad!!

I went for my birthday a couple weeks ago and I'm still as amazed. Every meal is great but THIS one? Absolutely outstanding. Chef Eli put together such an astounding set of 22 (!) courses that were so balanced and perfect.

[Shmily]

Dear Bobster...SO please share details...thanks in advance...

[Bobster]

Okay. This is what I put up on Facebook:


The start. Me at my "favorite table". After sitting, it begins. To the right, champagne: Pierre Gimonnet, Blanc de Blancs of course!
In the middle, warm cheese gougeres. And to the left, the traditional PerSe Salmon Cornet: salmon and creme fraiche in a wrapped toile very lightly sweet cookie. The perfect start.


1st Course: SPRING VEGETABLE BOUILLON with "Petites Legumes", Frisee Lettuce and "Pain de Champagne". Served room temperature with the slightly chilled bouillon poured on top with some very very aged drops of balsamic vinegar added. I was encouraged to lift the cup and drink that amazing nectar first and then eat the tiniest and freshest veggies. This course was on the Tasting Menu for all (as a choice between this and something else) but not in this little cup with a full pouring of the bouillon!


2nd Course: a fresh ISLAND CREEK OYSTER with some oyster gelee, cucumber relish and garden dill. Now this is the FULL oyster fresh from the shell. I was told later that there were bets in the kitchen as to how I was going to eat this! A fork and spoon were provided. My first thought was to just drink it up like a regular oyster but it was so PLUMP and with the gelee...I decided instead to do like a Chinese soup bun: I cut the gelee in half and put it on top of one part of the oyster, picked up the oyster with the spoon and bit in half so I could have two bites. A light taste of the sea! I found out that Chef liked what I did. NOT on the Tasting Menu!


3rd Course: FLUKE "CARPACCIO" with Grapefruit Confit and Ginger Gelee. 'Nuff said about this sweet and savory course, the name said it all.


A fork and knife were brought out--then quickly taken away, my server said Chef decided to add something else first. And oh BOY: When this 4th course was unveiled I freely admit I let out a squeal at the HEAP of Osetra Caviar on top of a PINK CHAMPAGNE GRANITE that was oo child! This was the sweetest agony as I forced myself to put down my spoon after each taste to make this last as long as it could. This was such a wonderful bonus, whee!!


More from the sea for my 5th course: CALIFORNIA RED ABALONE (large snail) "PICCATA" with Serrano Ham and Picoholine Olive Tapenade with Caper Vinaigrette. Another way to show the seafood is the star with the best supporting flavors you could want. You may think the ham with the olive bits would be too much; NOPE. But yes, not on the Tasting Menu.


No silverware was brought for this course, a First that I can remember since coming here. This 6th Course was a WHITE ASPARAGUS "CROUSTILLANT" (buttery and flaky crust) with Brown Butter Aoli. Now I'm no fan of asparagus but after this...a flakiness was Light and ultra tasty while letting the natural flavor of the veggie come thru. Yep, another bonus.


One more "finger food" for the 7th Course, HOOSICK FALL (upstage NY)'S SPRING LAMB SHOULDER with Sour Cherry BBQ with Cherry Blossoms. That lightly fried little piece of lamb on such a wacky skewer! I'm in love with sweet BBQ sauces so I knew I'd like this but it was such a complex sauce!! Another one just for me (as far as I could tell).


They next started "lowering the lights" so I had to turn on my flash. My 8th course was SQUIRE HILL FARMS' AMERAUCANA HEN EGG "CHAWANMUSHI" with Louisiana Crawfish and Pea Tendrils. Chawanmushi is a Japanese Steamed Custard. I can't begin to describe the richness of this off-the-menu luxury, another case of making sure I took my time.


I've seen versions of this 9th course before. This comes out with a glass dome and full of "SMOKE". When the glass was lifted the smoke dissipated and a subtle yet salty AND sweet aroma filled my nostrils. Under the sweetest slice of Meyer lemon I've ever had was Merguez (spicy sausage) with a Garbanzo Bean "Falafel". Again, playful with a symphony of tastes for another off-the-menu treat.


Then came the 10th Course (the regular tasting menu is Nine courses and I wasn't even halfway done yet!!) which was a savory morsel of "TETE DE COCHON" (pig head) with Pickled Green Tomato (sweet!) and Wilted Ramps with PerSe Ranch Dressing. Was I nervous at having TETE for the first time? Nah. One more rockin' bonus!


My 11th Course was a hoot! HUDSON VALLEY MOULARD DUCK FOIE GRAS "SHERBET" with Virginia Peanut Marmalade with Sultanas (seedless white grapes)and Celery Branch. Fantastic and creamy, my favorite kind of dish that was a perfect balance of savory and sweet and a little sour too. And yes, not on the Tasting Menu.


I guess the chefs remembered how much I love foie gras and I was thrilled that I got another course featuring this! My 12th course was similar to what everyone has an option to order (the other choice being a veggie course like the BOUILLON) but no one else got Hudson Valley Moulard Foie Gras like I did (that I could see)! This mini TERRINE OF DUCK FOIE GRAS came with Grilled Asparagus, Shaved White Strawberries (!), Green Almonds and Aged Balsamic Vinegar "Pate de Fruit" (like a mini fruit gelatin). Until this course, no bread was offered (like I needed it). This is the course where warm Toasted brioche is served and then more is brought as the original cools off. The creamiest non-salted butter along with PerSe's own butter are also brought with a selection of salts. The killer is that the richest and doughiest Parker House Rolls also come hot from the oven. I so could have eaten a dozen of those but I was "mature". I'm not one who needs toast for caviar or foie gras so I did eat some of the brioche with some butter but NOT with the foie gras.


Time for lucky 13 with no problems feeling full, these courses are such intimate bites that there's no danger of that. This PACIFIC MOI (aka threadfish) "En Feuille De Bric" (literally "brick dough", very light with no butteriness) with Oregon Morel Mushrooms, Garlic Scapes (the part that grows out of the garlic bulb) and Potato Confit with Pickled Mustard Seed Vinaigrette. Again, from the richness of the previous courses to have this light and complex fish is brilliance. One more off-the-menu.


Something really different for #14: BIG FIN SQUID "POELE" (similar to braising but a little undercooked) with Lobster Tortellini and Sweet Peppers with "Sauce Noilly Prat" (a French dry vermouth). Yes, the foam was the "sauce". Who knew squid could be this tender? Another tasty bonus.


The meat courses started with this, #15: FOUR STORY HILL FARM'S RABBIT "PORCHETTA". This is offered to all but not like how I had it! Mine was with Violet Artichokes, Glazed Carrots, Cauliflower Florets and Parsley Shoots with Rabbit jus. Yummm, the right amount of fatty richness countered perfectly with perfect vegetables.


On to Course 16, the last of the "entrees". Everyone gets the HERB ROASTED RIB-EYE OF MARCHO FARMS' VEAL but they all get it with the accompaniments I got from the previous course. I got my veal with a wonderful piece of Eggplant Parmasan (see it to the left of the veal?) and Young Fennel with "Gremolata" (an herb melange usually served with osso bucco). I think this was a way of paying tribute to my Sicilian heritage and was a perfect finale to the savory courses.


I was asked how I was doing and honestly responded, "No trouble here!" It was time for a Cheese course for #17: "CATSKILL" (an upstate NY goat cheese that's light with some mushroomy tones) with Slow Roasted Beets, English Walnuts, Compressed Honey Crisp Apple and Chervil with Red Beet Essence. All got this as their cheese course but I saw some people not poo-pooh it. Too bad for them.


Course 18 starts the wave of desserts with MANGO SORBET with Rice Pudding and Rice Wafer with Whipped Jasmine Tea. Subtle and sweet and yummy.


Course 19 was an EXCLUSIVE MINT "PAVLOVA" (merengue) FLOAT with Mint Gelee, Muscat Grapes, Grape Soda, Mint Meringue and "Fleur de Sel" (salted) Crumble with Vanilla Ice Cream. Mind blowing!!!


I was told that Course 20 is a new possibility and I was one of several "guinea pigs" in trying it: "STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE" with Compressed Strawberries, Vanilla Sponge, and White Chocolate Mousse with Strawberry Sorbet. Also so mind blowingly simple AND complex.


Course 21 was a choice course on the Tasting Menu with a fruit course. But woe to those who don't choose this "SWISS ROLL" consisting of Chocolate "Roulade" (roll), Manjari (Madigascar Dark Chocolate) Chocolate "Cremeux" and Chocolate-Covered Banana with "Glace a la Creme Fraiche" (glace is a cold or frozen saucelike thing). Can you see the lit birthday candle to the left? Too delish.


Course 22 would seem like nothing special to most but as you see I had started before I remember to take a picture! PerSe's TAHITIAN VANILLA BEAN CREME BRULEE is such a treasure.


These are the "MIGNARDISES" (bite size desserts). First a tray is brought with nearly 30 different kinds of chocolates. They would've give me all of them but I chose only a few: flavors like Fennel, Apple Brown Butter, Olive Oil, Mojito...but that's not all. Other tasty delights are brought out, like cocoa-dusted hazelnuts (to the right), butter caramels (to the left) and in the center, homemade pistachio nougats, creamy truffles and hard candies.


The finale. I arrived at 6:15. This bill with a bag of the most wonderful little chocolate sandwiches with the lightest and moistest shortbread didn't come until 10:45. I received a shock when the bill arrived: despite giving me a record 22 COURSES they charged me as if I had had the regular 9! I checked with my server Olivia (who has served me to perfection before) and she said that the bill was indeed correct. Happy Birthday! Wow!

[Shmily]

Dear Bobster..Thank you so much for sharing those interesting courses...and Happy Birthday...what an amazing treat...

[ewmay19]

Finally got around to recapping a meal I at Per Se a month ago....

This review is from my most recent visit to Per Se. I had requested the extended tasting menu, and I couldn't stop counting the days until this meal finally began.


I arrived about 10 minutes late, and I was immediately wished a happy birthday by the staff. We were then led to one of the “best seats in the house” (according to the staff), a two top located directly next to the south side of the giant fireplace. Despite the rainy day, it was still a phenomenal view.


The meal started out with champagne and the amuse bouche of warm groucheres and salmon cornets. The grougeres and the cornets were packed with flavor. I was happy as a pig in shit just eating these tiny dishes.


The waitress then came along and said that she would not be showing us the menu. Rather, the chef would be preparing an extended menu that he created specifically for us.


Watercress “Veloute” – Honey Crisp Apples

The meal began with soup. We were presented with a teacup-sized bowl with a quenelle of apples on the bottom and one sprig of a green herb (the name escapes me) on the top. The server then came along and poured the soup tableside. The first bite was rich and creamy, but the apples cut the creaminess of the soup. The combination of the two flavors worked perfectly, with the apples providing a nice textural crunch to the mixture. A great way to get the meal going.



Yukon Gold potato Blini- Kendall Farm Crème Fraiche and Osetra Caviar

“Oysters and Pearls” - “Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Osetra Caviar.

There have already been volumes written about Thomas Keller’s famous “Oysters and Pearls” so I will spare everyone the details. My mother who keeps semi-kosher, was served two Yukon Gold potato blini’s with crème fraiche on a beautiful amber colored plate. The Matre’D then came over with an orb-like object in her hand, with the top third of the orb lopped off. Upon setting it on the table, I saw a large mound of caviar resting on top of the orb. She then proceeded to “quenelle” two enormous mounds of caviar onto my oysters and then onto the blinis. To top off the indulgence, two more fresh blinis were brought to the table midway through the course (similar to the brioche service during a foie gras course). The blinis had a buttery, pancake like feel to them. The caviar tasted great. I felt like Don Draper.


Sashimi of Atlantic Fluke- Hass Avocado, Compressed Persian Cucumber and Cilantro Shoots


This simple looking dish rested on a metal “wedge” (I don’t know how else to describe the shape). A thin cucumber slice was wrapped around the fluke, and rested on a unnamed sauce. I took my chopsticks and downed the dish in one bite.

avocado. Awesome dish.



Florida Coast Softshell Crab Tempura- Pickled Green Tomatoes, Wilted Ramps and Garden dill Ranch Dressing

For me, this was the only clunker of the night. I am not a huge fan of tempura. I thought this was the only dish where the whole was not greater than the sum of its parts. The tempura’d crab meat was sandwiched in between two paper thin slices of marinated green tomatoes and was adjacent to Per Se’s homemade ranch dressing. The dressing was great, the crab I could have lived without.


White truffle Oil- Infused Custard- “Ragout” of Black Winter Truffles.

I am still amazing at how pungent such a small dish can be. One whiff and it reeks of truffles. I can talk about this dish for paragraphs, but people with better writing skills than I already have.


“Smoke”- Garbanzo Bean “Croquette,” Chickpea Tendrils, Picked Garlic, Coriander Glaze and Nicoise Olive Oil with Preserved Meyer Lemon


The presentation for this dish is fantastic. Two orbs, filled with smoke, are brought to the table. The tops of the orb glass is removed to reveal a grassy, almost tobacco like aroma that engulfs the entire face. A fun way to start the dish. The dish is comprised of various middle eastern flavors layered on top of a perfect cooked falafel. It felt like eating the best pita and falafel in the world from Muchentuchen in a dingy part of Jerusalem’s old city.





Torchon of Elevages Perigord Moulard Duck Foie Gras- Grilled Asparagus, Shaved White Strawberries, Green Almonds and Aged Balsamic Venigar “Pate de Fruit” with toasted brioche.


This course started off with the wait staff first bringing over the famous salt flight. It consisted of 6 salts from all over the world, including Montana, Hawaii, Himalayas, and some salt that Jesus may have personally blessed himself. It was over the top and I loved it. The torchon was firm and cold, and not so easily spread onto the warm brioche. I waited a couple minutes before taking another bite, this time spreading the balsamic pate and a couple different salts on top of the foie. Life is good.




Sauteed Fillet of Columbia River Sturgeon- “Ecrassee” of new crop potatoes and wilted swiss chart ribs with sauce bordelaise.

This dish was also not a favorite of mine. Tasted like chicken. Not too much too report on this one.



Peas and Carrots- Butter poached Nova Scotia Lobster, Split Enlgish Peas, Pea Tednrils, and Hiner “Aigre-Doux”

This was a specially requested dish that I had asked the Maitre D to have prepared for me. I read a number of reviews, including the shout out from Bruni’s review, which convinced me that this was a must have dish. I am happy to say that it was everything I had read about. The lobster tail drenched in butter and tasted great.


Hand cut “Tagliatelle”- Preserved black winter truffles

Probably one of the 3 best dishes of the night. Fresh tagliatelle served in a buttery sauce, and topped with frozen (“preserved”) black truffles. The shaving was generous and brought the dish to a whole new level.



Coddled Squire Hill Farms’ Ameraucana Hen Egg- Briche soldiers and smoked onion with black winter truffle Puree

This dish was served with brioche rectangles that were fried and served along side the cup of “soup.” I expected a slightly more truffled flavor from the dish, but overall, I enjoyed it very much. Starting to get drunk at this point.


Snake River farms - Herb Roasted Trumpet Royale Mushroom, Creamed Arrowleaf Spinach, Glazed Turnips and Crispy Garlic with “Sauce Dijonnaise

My memory is even hazier at this point, both from the sheer amount of food and because I was pretty drunk. I took a long 20-minute walk after eating half the dish to let my stomach cool down from the onslaught of all the food. I came back to the restaurant and realized that most patrons were gone by now.


“Ardrahan”- Piccalilli, “Pain De Campagne” and Garden Dill

Finally, dessert started to come around. I have to admit that I have absolutely no recollection of this course.

Pineapple Sorbet- Compressed Papaya and Lime Zest

This was an awesome refresher course. A tiny quenelle of sorbet covering hardened papaya pieces was presented on a single spoon,. A much needed course that brought me out of my food coma. I finally felt like a human being again.


Grapefruit- Champagne Float- Ruby Red grapefruit, Fleur de Sel “Sable,”Vanilla Ice Cream and Grapefruit Soda and Champagne Granite

This dish was presented in a tall, root beer float style glass. It was a complex dish that is too much for me to explain at this point (I am writing the latter part of this review almost one month after the meal). That being said, the dish worked very well, and I continued to feel more refreshed as I plowed through the cup's layered flavors.


Strawberry Shortcake- Vanilla Sponge, Strawberries and White Chocolate Mousse with Strawberry Sorbet

This dish was jammed packed with strawberry flavor. I loved the gelatinous strawberry sheet that covered one portion of the dish.


Coffee and Doughnuts- Cinnamon-Sugared doughnuts with Cappuccino “Semifreddo”

This is the famous Keller dish that most people have read already about. I was disgustingly full at this point.


Ice Raspberry Parfait-Macerated Pudwill Farm’s Raspberries and Hazelnut Mousse with Raspberry Sorbet

I had specifically asked for a non-chocolate dessert because I knew I was too full to eat anything heavy. This dish was a great way to end out the meal.


Overall, the meal lasted well over 4.5 hours. The pace of the meal was perfect and the wine pairings were top notch. As far as straight food is concerned, this restaurant does it better, in my opinion, then anywhere else I've ever been to. If any of the staff actually reads this, thank you.


On a non Per Se note, I would like to mention that this is my first restaurant that I have blogged about. Please bear with me as the site continues to grow. More reviews will come soon.

This all comes from my blog that I just started: nyfoodthoughts.blogspot.com


Enjoy!

[percyn]

10 of us are dining in the private room tomorrow evening. Looking forward to it and reporting back.

[sickchangeup]

10 of us are dining in the private room tomorrow evening. Looking forward to it and reporting back.

There may not be a nicer place for 10 people to dine together privately in the city. We did a champagne birthday dinner for 7 in December which was incredible, even better photos with Columbus Circle & Central Park in the background.

We'll be in the main dining room Sunday evening, although I never report back much of anything :-)

[Bobster]

I need to find a bunch of friends who are adventuresome and can afford it! I'd love to know details of the private dining.

[jdanton]

Private dining is easy to setup--you can reserve in advance of the two month requirement. Just go to the website and follow to the private dining area. There is now apparently a 50% deposit required, refundable upon request (or it can be applied to the check)

There are two rooms--one that seats 10, and another one that seats from 20 to approximately 50.

[oakapple]

I need to find a bunch of friends who are adventuresome and can afford it! I'd love to know details of the private dining.

It might be easier to find three friends, and then just reserve a table in the main dining room.

[percyn]

Don't have time to post about the entire meal we had on Sunday, but suffice to say the food, company and wines made this a memorable dinner.

Pictures can be found here for now - http://www.flickr.co...157624060498871

[sheepish]

Don't have time to post about the entire meal we had on Sunday, but suffice to say the food, company and wines made this a memorable dinner.

Wow, that was an impressive wine selection! Liked the look of the pic titled CIMG8174. Do you recall what it was?

[kiliki]

We had a funny thing happen here a few weeks ago. At the table next to us was a family with a boy of 6 or 7. The waiter asked if he'd like to go back and see the kitchen, and he hesitated before his parents urged him to go. After they walked off I hissed to my husband, "you can tell he doesn't even appreciate it! I can't believe HE gets to go back!" And there's staff everywhere there of course, and I'm sure someone overheard me, because later they invited US into the kitchen (which was freakishly spotless and silent). We didn't see anyone else get invited back. I was a bit embarrased but the ends justified the means, I guess.

What does everyone here do with the candies/truffles? Our waiter said only about twice a year does a table actually finish these. The two times I've been I've been stuffed and practically comotose by the time the silver tiered thing comes around, so we didn't make a dent in it. A waiter told us later that some people have it boxed up which they are happy to do, and I am haunted by the idea that they mnight have thrown it all away.