85 replies to this topic

[docsconz]

Thank you again for writing and sharing with us.
I'm not sure if you have made me more aware, or if I'm spotting an actual 'trend', but there seems to be a bloom of Spanish restaurants in lower Manhattan. You have certainly intrigued me as well as done some apetite whetting.
Do you happen to know the name of the most prominent Spanish olive variety?

Hi Judith. I agree that there is a major upsurge in Manhatten alone. I stopped in at Tia Pol over the weekend and it was packed. In addition to the restaurants that are clearly "Spanish" themed, many more are filling their menus with Spanish influenced dishes with the influence in the form of ingredients, style or both.

As for the olives, here is a photo taken from a video presentation at the Conference on the major olive varieties in Spain.



The arbequina is the most prominent olive in catalunya and the one that I am most personally well acquainted. I particularly like the olive oil made by Dauro that is predominantly made with arbequina olives. The picual is the most widely grown olive in Spain, representing, I believe, about 50% of production.

[docsconz]

Here are some photos taken while waiting for the shuttle from the parking area to the conference:









...one of the main hall of CIA/Greystone:



...and one of the breakfast being put out:

[docsconz]

A few photos from Spanish Ways with Pork and Lamb:


Marco Antonio Garcia carrying lechal for his demonstration.


Peter Kaminsky discussing his love affair with Spanish pork.


Jose Andres and Santiago Martin of Embutidos Fermin.


Joan Roca working with pork.


Garcia working with the "lechal" or suckling lamb.


Roasted "cochinillo" or suckling pig.


Candido Lopez Cuerdo cutting the cochinillo with a plate.


Nando Jubany working with pig trotters

[docsconz]

Photos from Rice Traditions in Spain: Preserving, Adapting and Re-imagining.


Gerry Dawes and Carles Gaig. Rafa Morales is in the background.


Mari Carmen Velez and Lola Velez from la Sirena.


Rafa Morales and Maria Muria Lloret


Carles Gaig finishing a dish.


Maria Carmen Velez cooking her paella with Gerry Dawes looking on.

[Mar Calpena]

Docs,

Thanks, thanks, thanks for your wonderful reviews. I've been salivating profusely while reading them...

Just two side notes: Whereas the most famed Serrano and Ibérico area is Extremadura, I'd say that for Teruel ham is just as good...

And as for calçots: Now you know what a wonderful feast they are... Going to a "calçotada" in winter is as much as social event as a food feast, pretty similar in significance to what barbecue might be in the South of USA. There is an annual Calçots fair in Valls (in the Tarragona area of Catalonia) which is so much fun -there's even a calçot eating contest-, and it takes place at the end of January. Can't wait till the calçots season begins...

Mar

[docsconz]

Docs,

Thanks, thanks, thanks for your wonderful reviews. I've been salivating profusely while reading them...

Just two side notes: Whereas the most famed Serrano and Ibérico area is Extremadura, I'd say that for Teruel ham is just as good...

And as for calçots: Now you know what a wonderful feast they are... Going to a "calçotada" in winter is as much as social event as a food feast, pretty similar in significance to what barbecue might be in the South of USA. There is an annual Calçots fair in Valls (in the Tarragona area of Catalonia) which is so much fun -there's even a calçot eating contest-, and it takes place at the end of January. Can't wait till the calçots season begins...

Mar

Thanks Mar. I haven't knowingly had Teruel ham and I don't recall anything being said about it at the conference. Do you know what breed(s) of pig it comes from? How is it priced relative to the hams from Extremadura?

Speaking of Calcots...


Llorenc Petras peeling a calcot.


Carles Gaig eating one.

[Corinna Dunne]

Thank you so much for the wonderful report doc. I hope someone goes to the Asia Conference next year and continues in the same tradition.

[Mar Calpena]

There's a web page (in Spanish) about
Jamón de Teruel

Funnily enough, they mention they were the first Ham D.O. (Denominación de Origen) to be approved in the country, but they do not mention breeds. It's usually on the expensive side of the spectrum (I'd probably put this down to their production being smaller) but still cheaper than Jabugo. And if you ask me, there's a better quality/price rate.

However, I've found some info somewhere else and they say:

El tipo de ganado a emplear será el procedente de cruces entre las razas Landrace (tipo estándar) y Large White, en lo que respecta a la línea madre; y Duroc para la línea padre

Which means: The breeds to employ will a cross between Landrace (standard type) and Large White, on the motherly line, and Duroc for the father one.

Hope this helps,

Mar

[molto e]

Doc,

Did they have multiple presentation occuring at the same time or one at a time? Did you get a feel as to the make up of the audience..."foodies", professionals or a combination. After attending both the New York and Napa conferences, do you have any new restaurants that you want to try on your next trip to Spain?

Molto E

[hathor]

Doc, you've now invaded my dream world. I had a long complicated dream about eating roast Iberico pork. It was an absolutely massive slice, and I had to share it. Apparently, your descriptions are very, very evocative!
Thanks for the info on the olives. I wish olive oil producers would list the varieties, in the same manner as wine labels. There is a huge flavor difference and it would be nice to know the names of what you like, or don't like. It's such a crap shoot now, unless the shop has a bottle open for tasting.
Your photos are beautiful, thanks.

[docsconz]

Doc,

        Did they have multiple presentation occuring at the same time or one at a time? Did you get a feel as to the make up of the audience..."foodies", professionals or a combination. After attending both the New York and Napa conferences, do you have any new restaurants that you want to try on your next trip to Spain?

Molto E

Hi Eliot,

The Conference consisted mostly of general sessions with one presentation at a time and four periods of concurrent small group sessions that took place over Friday and Saturday. I will be describing the ones I attended in upcoming reports.

The audience was by a large margin professional consisting of chefs, educators, media, producers and corporate development personnel and executives. My wife and I were amongst the few non-professionals there. I suppose that I am media though I am certainly no professional in that regard.

Funny that you ask that last question. Prior to the conference I had no plans to return to Spain in the near future. As a direct result of the conference though, I am now planning a return trip to Catalunya and a first vist to Valencia and Alicante this spring. Among the restaurants I have yet to experience I hope to visit El Celler de Can Roca, Can Jubany, Can Gaig, Comerc24 and others in Catalunya as well as Ca Sento, La Sirena, Monastrell and Levante in the Valencia/Alicante region. Of course there are plenty of restaurants from other areas of Spain that were represented that I would love to experience. I have to make a point of getting to Madrid one of these days as well as Galicia, Asturias, Navarra and the Basque Country. How could I not want to return to Andalucia? There is simply not enough time nor money in my world to do what I want to do and eat all that I want to eat and I am quite fortunate in that I am already better off than most. Mind you, I am not complaining.

[docsconz]

The tapas or pintxos plate prepared by Patxi Bergara and his crew consisted of (from the bottom and moving clockwise) Tortilla de Patatas, Aceitunas Verdes Rellenas de Pimiento y Anchoa (pepper and anchovy stuffed green olives), a cup of Romesco sauce for the calcots, Escalivada Catalana (roasted red pepper and eggplant), Mejillones en Escabeche (mussels in Escabeche sauce), Ensalada de Naranjas con Granadas (salad of Valencia oranges and pomegranates), Coca de Cebolla con Pimientos, Anchoas y Queso Manchego (Catalan bread with onion, peppers, anchovies and Manchego cheese), Queso Cabrales, Jamon Serrano and Falsa Lasana de Anchoas (I'm not sure what makes this a "false lasagna", but it is a signature pintxo of Bergara) A piece of bread was in the middle of the tray.

[docsconz]

Doc, you've now invaded my dream world. I had a long complicated dream about eating roast Iberico pork. It was an absolutely massive slice, and I had to share it.  Apparently, your descriptions are very, very evocative!   
Thanks for the info on the olives. I wish olive oil producers would list the varieties, in the same manner as wine labels. There is a huge flavor difference and it would be nice to know the names of what you like, or don't like. It's such a crap shoot now, unless the shop has a bottle open for tasting.
Your photos are beautiful, thanks.

Thank you, Judith. We just opened a jar of Ybarra brand "alta seleccion" piquillo pepper stuffed manzanilla olives that I bought from tienda.com. They are marvellous and exactly what we remember eating at various tapas bars in Barcelona. I could easily eat a jar in a sitting.

[docsconz]

There's a web page (in Spanish) about
Jamón de Teruel

Funnily enough, they mention they were the first Ham D.O. (Denominación de Origen) to be approved in the country, but they do not mention breeds. It's usually on the expensive side of the spectrum (I'd probably put this down to their production being smaller) but still cheaper than Jabugo. And if you ask me, there's a better quality/price rate.

However, I've found some info somewhere else and they say:

El tipo de ganado a emplear será el procedente de cruces entre las razas Landrace (tipo estándar) y Large White, en lo que respecta a la línea madre; y Duroc para la línea padre

Which means: The breeds to employ will a cross between Landrace (standard type) and Large White, on the motherly line, and Duroc for the father one.

Hope this helps,

Mar

Thanks for the info, Mar. This is very interesting. I suppose that one reason I didn't see any of this or hear much about it at the conference is because it probably is not currently being exported to the US. I will have to keep an eye out for it next time I am there.

[Daily Gullet Staff]

Voyage into Creativity, part four
Friday afternoon

By John Sconzo

The individual perhaps most responsible for the resurgence in artisan cheese making in Spain is Enric Canut. He launched the evening’s general session: Spanish Cheese: Revival of a Craft, Inspiration for Chefs,” led by American master fromager Max McCalman, who stated that “cheese puts an exclamation point on a meal.” Canut recounted the recent history of cheese in Spain, a longstanding tradition that was decimated during the Franco years: the government drove the country towards large-scale cultural homogenization and de-emphasized regional artisanal traditions. The situation was exacerbated as the country slipped further into poverty. Canut blamed the demise of the cheese traditions on the Catholic organization Opus Dei, which persuaded the Franco government to stress the efficiencies and economics of large-scale production. It was actually illegal to produce cheese below certain high volume production standards. The 1968 catalogue of the Spanish Ministry of Agriculture described 42 different cheeses of Spanish origin; at that time, more than 30 were being produced illegally by artisanal producers.

After Franco’s death, Spain slowly relaxed many of the limitations, sparking a revival of cheese production and artisanal craftsmanship. Despite that, some restrictions remained on the books; as recently as 1979, most cheeses produced and sold within the country were still illegal. It wasn’t until 1980 that Spain had its first classified DOC cheese – Roncal. Finally, in 1984, the “Decree on Industrial Minimums” was repealed, regulations for the development of crafted cheeses were promulgated, and assistance money was made available to small-scale cheese makers. The first Cheese Fair was held in Trujillo in 1986; it has since become Spain’s biggest. By 1990 the official roster of Spanish cheeses had increased to 82 distinct varieties -- all legal -- and by 1996, Spain was able to bill itself as “the land of 100 cheeses.” These days, Spanish cheese producers are emphasizing re-incorporation of the domestic product in both professional and home kitchens. To demonstrate this point, Pedro and Marcos Moran from Casa Gerardo in Asturias highlighted their local Cabrales Cheese in several recipes including one, “Crispy Bocadillo de Cabrales,” that I was able to enjoy later on in the Market Place. Also, Oriol Balaguer used different cheeses for sweet and savory combinations.

Spain has a rich history as a seafaring nation, so it should be no surprise that it is a country that relies heavily on seafood. David Rosengarten and Maria Jose Sevilla, a London-based authority on Spanish food, moderated “Out of the Sea: Three Spanish Chefs’ Approaches to Fish and Shellfish” with presentations by Joan Roca, Andoni Luis Aduriz and Joaquin Felipe.

Though Roca did two demonstrations, the first was the one that had everyone buzzing: Roca presented a video of the preparation of the much-discussed “Earth and oyster.” This dish, which gives “surf and turf” a literal manifestation, comprises a single briny oyster and a distillation of “earth.” In the video, Roca collected samples from his local forest floor, took them back to his lab and distilled the essence, which was applied to the briny oyster. I discussed this dish with Jose Andres, who told me that the genesis of Roca’s idea came from pairing oysters with wine. The best pairings, he said, were with mineral-filled wines like Chablis. In that case, why not add the mineral sensibility directly to the wine from its source? Though the dish is not intuitive, Jose’s explanation made sense to me. I would also imagine that this dish would be very much driven by terroir -- both from the “earth” and the oyster (though in that case one could hardly call it “terroir”), and that it would taste quite different depending on the specific characteristics of the soil and the oyster.

Aduriz made a crustacean soup and an untraditional ceviche without citric acid, using instead roots and leaves with lemony qualities and tannins.

I had never heard of Chef Joaquin Felipe prior to this conference; however, he delivered one of its more interesting demonstrations. His subject was tuna and he showed ways of preparing practically every part of the large pelagic fish. For Felipe, chef at the Europa Deco restaurant in Madrid, the liver is the most difficult part to cook.

Finishing the session was Dani Garcia who concocted a dish with oysters, using his “popcorn” as an accent.

By the time the General Sessions were over, many an appetite had been rekindled -- just in time for the abundant marketplace. A live Flamenco show accompanied a cornucopia of culinary highlights. Unfortunately I was barely able to make a dent in the offerings. Some I did get to enjoy included:

• Cabrales Bocaditos from Pedro and Marcos Moran;
• Broad Beans with Clams from Amado Alonso Heria of Asturiasa;
• Fantastic ajo blanco from Jose Andres;
• Crushed Potatoes, Broken Eggs and Vegetable Coal with Casein Dressing from Andoni Aduriz;
• Salt cod “Bunyols” from Nando Jubany;
• “Slightly sweet seafood rice” from Maria Muria Lloret;
• Red tuna bites from Joaquin Felipe (pictured above);
• McFoie burgers (foie gras and beef) and “kindereggs” from Carles Abellan and Caneloni tradicional with truffle sauce from Carles Gaig;
• Our share of fine wines from all over Spain.

My wife and I stumbled towards the bus stuffed and exhausted. Tomorrow was coming soon.

+ + + + +

All photos by the author.

[Jose Andres]

Actually the food was prepared by the Napa Culinary Institute, and they did a great job serving over 900 people, following my cookbook recipes, plus a pintxo from Patxi Bergara with Boquerones..................

[docsconz]

Actually the food was prepared by the Napa Culinary Institute, and they did a great job serving over 900 people, following my cookbook recipes, plus a pintxo from Patxi Bergara with Boquerones..................

Thank you for the clarification, Jose. They certainly did do a wonderful job. The food was fabulous. It didn't hurt that they had some pretty good recipes to begin with. I was amazed at the quality of the food that was prepared for so many people - not just at the Tapas lunch, but throughout the conference.

[docsconz]

A few photos from the late afternoon session:


Max McCalman and Enric Canut talking Spanish cheese.


Pedro and Marcos Moran from Casa Gerardo in Prendes (Asturias), Spain working with cheese.


Oriol Balaguer putting the finishing touches on his "Concept" cheesecake. Yes, that is arugula and it was quite delicious.



Joan Roca using smoke in a dish with seafood.



Joaquin Felipe chef at Europa Deco in Madrid works with all parts of tuna.

[docsconz]

A few photos from the Friday evening Marketplace:


The team from Jaleo making superb tapas.


Marcos Moran serving "crispy bocadillo of Cabrales" to the cheesemaster Enric Canut. These were full of cheesy goodness - creative comfort food.


"Tartare of Tomato with Crayfish and White Garlic" from Francis Paniego.


Maricel Presilla of Cucharamama in Hoboken, N.J. serving her "Cucharamama Slab Bacon in Panca Pepper-Brown Sugar Loaf Adobo with Oloroso Sherry."


"Lamb Antichucos with Papa Seca Puree and Pickled Yacon" and "Suspira de Umena" from Marilu Madueno and Andrea Massaro Debernardi of Lima, Peru's Huaca Pullana with an overview of a segment of the World Marketplace.


Joaquin Felipe with his "Red Tuna Bites."


Carles Abellan filling his "kindereggs." Nando Jubany is in the foreground serving Abellan's decadent "McFoie Burgers."

These dishes were all wonderful. I had a number of other great dishes, bites and wines, but what is sad is the number of wonderful sounding dishes that I missed either because I was too full or I simply did not get to them. As a World Marketplace rookie, I didn't know enough to study the menu that was handed out on entry into the room. If I had done so I wouldn't have missed Marco Antonio Garcia's "Asado de Cordero Lechal!" Actually, I can't complain. I just wish that I had a bigger stomach in order to sample all of the delights presented.

[hathor]

What a fascinating bite of history. Opus Dei regulating cheese. How bizarre. Somewhere there is a Dan Brown meets John LeCarre novel buried in that sentence.

[Dave Hatfield]

Wonderful reports about wonderful foods in one of my favourite countries.

Although not strictly a food comment I can't let this quote pass without comment.

The situation was exacerbated as the country slipped further into poverty.

This is referring to the Franco era. Nothing could be further from the truth. Say what you like about his politics, but Franco brought Spain from impoverishment after the civil war to modernity by the time he died and he stage managed a transition to democracy before his death.

By the way, the culinary scene in Spain was pretty hot even in the 60's when I lived there.

Keep up the good work.

[Lonnie]

Wonderful reports about wonderful foods in one of my favourite countries.

Although not strictly a food comment I can't let this quote pass without comment.

The situation was exacerbated as the country slipped further into poverty.

This is referring to the Franco era. Nothing could be further from the truth. Say what you like about his politics, but Franco brought Spain from impoverishment after the civil war to modernity by the time he died and he stage managed a transition to democracy before his death.

For some time in the late 70's and into the 80's I lived with a man who grew up in post-Civil War Spain, in Galicia. Franco was responsible for not alleviating years and years of starvation in that country. My friend's family nearly got wiped out by hunger in the 50's. Depending on which side you'd been on, you either did or did not get rations of flour, eggs, and other basics. As for the transition to democracy, this was not Franco's doing nor that of his cronies, but rather that of King Juan Carlos. Franco thought he'd created a puppet in his young protege, whereas in fact Juan Carlos risked everything when he stood up to the fascist generals in February of '81 to put down their attempted coup. Spain nearly fell back into civil war during the era of the transition and had it not been for this brave king and the will of the people, Franco's cronies would have been running a fascist state all over again. Read the reviews and even the book, Juan Carlos: Steering Spain from Dictatorship to Democracy to get an idea. Yes, Franco did much to improve the infrastructure in Spain, at times at tremendous cost to the environment, and it sure was safe there, like it is in many police states. Democracy is messy, and that's not what Franco had in mind.

[docsconz]

An interesting discussion could certainly be had on what Franco and his politics meant for Spain as a whole and its constituent parts, however, to continue it is beyond the scope of this discussion. In the context of food and the discussion in this thread, however, it is clear that the Franco years were a bane to artisanal cheese production in Spain as many forms were either extinguished or nearly so. An interesting study would be to examine what kinds of cheeses and their qualities were available prior to the Spanish Civil War and how that compares to what is available today.

[Daily Gullet Staff]

Voyage into Creativity, part five
Friday: Aduriz and Petras

By John Sconzo

As far as I was concerned, Friday afternoon belonged to Llorenc Petras and Andoni Luis Aduriz. Both were participants in the post-prandial General Session on “Spain’s Vegetable Kitchen: From Artichokes, Piquillo Peppers and Chickpeas to Mushrooms and Other Forest Botanicals”; the second half of the title involved these two. I also attended two breakout sessions after the general sessions. Both involved Aduriz; the second involved Petras as well.

Teresa Barrenechea, former chef/owner of Marichu restaurant in New York and now a cookbook author living back in her native Spain, oversaw interesting demonstrations using vegetables by Pedro Moran, Francis Paniego and Enrique Martinez in addition to the mushrooms of Petras and the woodland botanicals of Aduriz. Martinez, from the restaurant Maher in Navarra, cooked vegetables by a technique that he called “condensation.” He used the broth a number of ways, including as a gel. In the Marketplace later, I had a gelled piquillo pepper broth of his that was both delicious and beautifully presented.

Aduriz, from the restaurant Mugaritz (the name means “the oak next to the border”), gave an account of his interest in woodland botanicals. He credits his inspiration to Michel Bras, who is renowned for his intimate knowledge and use of the wild botanicals in his region. In homage to Bras, Aduriz created his own version -- accompanied by a video -- of one of Bras’ most well-known dishes, using 60 to 80 native botanical ingredients.

Friday afternoon and Saturday featured a few general sessions interspersed several breakout sessions. Each session required a ticket and was available for pre-registration prior to the conference. My wife and I got our first choices, although almost any of the sessions would have been interesting.

Although I have not yet had the pleasure of dining at his restaurant, I am intrigued by Andoni Anduriz and his work. I turned in my ticket for his Kitchen workshop at the door of the massive work-kitchen, the gateway to all the kitchen workshops. I soon found myself one of about thirty other admirers, squeezing into a small space in front of Aduriz' work area, craning for a view. (This is my only significant criticism of the entire event. Since tickets for all the workshops were collected at the door, it didn’t necessarily matter which ticket was originally held. I will give credit to the organizers, though, as they learned their lesson for the following day’s demonstration by Ferran Adria.) I was obviously not the only one intrigued by Aduriz as the audience consisted of a number of his peers such as Dani Garcia, Oriol Balaguer, Jose Andres, Harold McGee and Ferran Adria amongst others.

Despite the tight quarters, Aduriz’s discussion and demonstration were fascinating. He spoke through a translator while several assistants nimbly performed the tasks set out for them. Young, with an intensity behind his eyes that belied his age, Aduriz spoke about the benefits of systematization in the professional kitchen. He said that “all recipes are subjective until systematized and made uniform with a common language.” He felt that systematization is vital to do things correctly and consistently and to "filter out prejudices that everyone has." This reminded me a lot of the philosophy of the Italian chef, Davide Scabin of 0.Combal in Torino, who spoke strongly about his desire to systematize such things as salinity within specific dishes by using defined salt solutions and volumes rather than a simple shake or imprecise pour over a dish. The biggest question, according to Aduriz though, is “Why?” He feels that above all, when cooking, one must ask “why” as in "why does a particular technique or ingredient work" or even "why do X at all?" Under his direction his assistants used starch from kudzu, the common roadside pest, to make “gnocchi” flavored with Idiazabal cheese. An interesting element of this neutral starch is its ability to change texture at varying degrees. Like “butter” at 73 degrees C, the texture changes to a pasta like consistency with boiling. Aduriz served it with a tasty pork bouillon with "contrasting" vegetables.

Aduriz also demonstrated several other techniques. He prepared an intense chive soup by impregnating the herbs in liquid and cooking them in a pressure-vacuum cooking device. Using lecithin powder, xantham gum, salt, juice and fish tank pumps, he prepared flavored “bubbles.” Aduriz mentioned that he is currently working on a dish with smoke-filled bubbles called “Vanity.”

Next I attended “Of Mushrooms, Botanicals and More: Cooking from the Spanish Forest." involving both Aduriz and Llorenc Petras, with Petras initially describing and showing various woodland mushroom species. He was amazed at the variety and quality of cultivated mushrooms available here, though it's not just the US that has shown an increased interest in the tasty fungi. Spain has seen a 20% increase in mushroom consumption in the last ten years alone. It seems likely that Llorenc Petras has had a hand in that.

For this second workshop, Aduriz shifted gears and focused more on ingredients than technique. Describing his style of cooking as “Techno-emotional Cuisine,” Aduriz prepared an oxalis salad in a special see-through bowl. The salad consisted of herbs from a beech forest (wood sorrel and ground ivy) and wild mushroom slices on a bed of ratte potatoes cooked in a truffle and yeast stock. He also did a demonstration of potatoes cooked (meant to evoke small stones) in gray clay, with a light cream of garlic confit and farmhouse egg yolks. A unique aspect of this dish is the insulating quality of the clay, which kept the potato quite hot. The clay is eaten, but not digested. Finally, Aduriz showed that Joan Roca was not the only chef with “earth’ on his mind and palate. He finished with a fun demonstration of deconstructed scents, passing six different scents on smelling sticks around the room, asking us to identify them. The scents, easily identifiable, were not necessarily pleasant. One was, in fact, cat urine. He then sent the six scents on a second round -- this time joined together. The joint scent turned out to be that of sweet basil -- an interesting exercise in the effects of combining disparate components. I had the pleasure of being able to speak to Aduriz for a time after the session. He is a very, warm and accessible man eager to discuss food. He is also as big a fan of eGullet Society member Judith Gebhart as she is of him.

+ + + + +

All photos by the author.

[docsconz]

A few "people" shots:


Jose Andres and Llorenc Petras having fun.


Marilyn Tausend and Nancy Harmon Jenkins, two of my very favorite trip leaders. Nancy led my trip to Spain with CIA/WOF back in 2004 while Marilyn co-led my trip to Mexico this past March along with Rick Bayless.


Joan Roca and Andoni Aduriz relaxing before a demonstration.


Marcos Moran, Enrique Martinez and Dani Garcia doing the same.


Carles Gaig being interviewed during the Friday lunch.


Rafael Anson, Jose Andres, Ferran Adria and yours truly.

[docsconz]

Actually the food was prepared by the Napa Culinary Institute, and they did a great job serving over 900 people, following my cookbook recipes, plus a pintxo from Patxi Bergara with Boquerones..................

Thank you for the clarification, Jose. They certainly did do a wonderful job. The food was fabulous. It didn't hurt that they had some pretty good recipes to begin with. I was amazed at the quality of the food that was prepared for so many people - not just at the Tapas lunch, but throughout the conference.

Here is a photo of the people primarily responsible for the Tapas lunch.

[docsconz]

Photos from Spain's Vegetable Kitchen: From Artichokes, Piquillo Peppers, and Chickpeas to Mushrooms and Other Forest Botanicals


Teresa Barrenechea doing the introductions.


Andoni Aduriz Onstage. He is watching his video presentation on a monitor.


Photo taken from a video monitor of Aduriz' Forest Botanicals Salad inspired by Michel Bras.





Enrique Martinez working with his "Condensation" technique.


Martinez' Asparagus with Truffles


Pedro Moran explaining an Asturian Fabada.


Francis Paniego of Echaurren in Ezcaray, Navarra, Spain demonstrating the use of Spanish peppers.


Llorenc Petras discussing characteristics of a boletus mushroom while Teresa barrenechea looks on.

[docsconz]

Photos from the first Aduriz demonstration, Signature Flavors of Spain's Top Chefs: Andoni Luis Aduriz:


An overview (literally) of the Aduriz demo. Ferran Adria, Jose Andres and Dani Garcia can be discerned in the background.


Ruben Garcia and Oriol Balaguer looking on.


Harold McGee taking notes


Aduriz discussing his philosophy with the assistance of a translator. Ferran Adria is looking on.


Aduriz' assistants putting together small bowls of samples of previously made kudzu gnocchi.


Thickened kudzu starch.


Pouring the warm starch into a piping bag.


Making the kudzu gnocchi by piping the malleable warm starch into an ice-cooled bath.


Aduriz pouring the idiazabal broth around the gnocchi.


Aduriz using a pressure-vacuum cooker to make Chive Soup.


Making flavored bubbles using fish tank pumps, juice, eggwhite powder, xantham gum and salt.

[docsconz]

Photos from Of Mushrooms, Botanicals, and More: Cooking from the moderated by Maria Jose Sevilla and featuring Llorenc Petras and Andoni Aduriz.




Sevilla and Petras.



Cultivated Mushroom varieties available in Napa Valley- an impressive array to Petras.


Andoni Luis Aduriz


...with translator.


Cardboard display stand and bowl for his dish "oxalis salad."










Construction of the Oxalis salad, a representative dish of Aduriz' "Techno-emotional" style using products of woodland origen. When making this dish at his restaurant he uses actual woodland foraged produce.


Scent on a stick.


Six disparate scents that when combined create the scent of sweet basil.


Mixing the "clay" to coat the "pebble" potatoes


Dipping the potatoes into the clay.


Marcos and Pedro Moran congratulate Aduriz on a job well done.


Aduriz and yours truly after his demos.

[Daily Gullet Staff]

Voyage into Creativity, part six
Saturday morning

By John Sconzo

My wife and I arrived early at the conference, for a leisurely breakfast and good seats. In fact, we got front row seats. They would come in handy.

The day started with an impassioned talk (In Pursuit of Flavor, Culture and Authenticity: Bringing Spain Home) by Colman Andrews, cookbook writer, former editor of Saveur and Gourmet staffer. According to Andrews, Spain has become a hotbed not only in the US, but also the rest of Europe and indeed much of the rest of the world. He cited examples:

• Gazpacho avec 'quelque chose'” is “one of the hottest dishes in France” of late.
• It wasn’t too long ago that no Spanish chefs were known by name in the US.
• Likewise, few dishes other than paella were known.

What changed? As others had said earlier in the conference, Franco’s death opened the way for a resurgence of regional character and creativity that became obvious to the rest of the world during the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, followed by the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao and the ascendancy of Ferran Adria and his culinary disciples.

Andrews explained what it all meant for the US: Spanish food products such as pimenton, piquillo peppers, olive oil, rice and various conservas are making huge inroads, with other foods -- like iberico ham -- now following; an upsurge of new “Spanish” restaurants, like Tia Pol in New York City in which the food is highly authentic (though its owner is from New Orleans), as well as others that are Spanish in name only. He implored the attendees “to give your audience a chance” and not assume that they don’t want what is right. He said that instead of “taking a variety of items from across Spain, mixing them up and thinking ‘they won’t know the difference’” that it is “better to focus on a few things” and to “trust simplicity.” He continued: don't learn “the wrong lessons” such as “foams are everything;” don't let Calcium Chloride become the “new balsamic vinegar.” He said that Ferran Adria has taught chefs to question why things are done certain ways and whether there may be other ways of doing things. Andrews finished with “don’t try to bring everything home -- leave some things in Spain.”

With an opening like that, the Illy Cafe man could have simply sat down -- additional caffeine would hardly be necessary. Nor would it be necessary with the panel discussion that followed: a veritable who’s who of culinary experts including moderators Richard Clark, Richard Wolffe and Greg Drescher, and panelists Clara Maria Gonzalez de Amezua, Jose Andres, Colman Andrews, Michael Batterberry, Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Thomas Keller, Karen McNeil, David Rosengarten, Dr. Tim Ryan, Gabino Sotelino, Norman Van Aken, Anya Von Bremzen and Clark Wolf. The topic was “Spanish Flavors, American Kitchens: Appetites for Change.” The discussion was dedicated to R.W. “Johnny” Apple, who would have been leading the panel had he not passed away shortly before the conference.

The opening question to the panel was "How much of the creative energy now in Spain is a reaction to it having been closed for so long?" Clara Maria Gonzalez de Amezua, who has lived through those years of closure simply stated that in Spain there always has been "a creative spirit." Anya Von Bremzen added that the current creative surge is not due to "just a bunch of people who happen to be in Spain at the same time." She added that it is "very much (due to) an 'open door' policy" with the exchange of ideas and that the culinary community of Spain is very well organized as exemplified by conferences such as "Madrid Fusion" and "Lo Mejor de la Gastronomia." Indeed she noted that other European countries are picking up on that and holding conferences of their own.

Jose Andres addressed the balance of traditional and creative cooking in Spain. He noted that he started making traditional Spanish cuisine in the US so that the creative cuisine could be understood. He also jokingly said he used Washington political correspondent Richard Clark to write his book so that he could have greater influence in D.C. politics on behalf of Spanish cuisine. Clark answered that that was all well and good, but the "President doesn't like 'wet' fish," a reference to the lightly-cooked fish recipes in Andres's book. David Rosengarten wished that what Jose Andres did was actually happening more in the U.S. as "there is a notorious lack of traditional Spanish food here." He felt that the historical reasons have been a dearth of real Spanish ingredients, but noted the current efforts to change that. Clark Wolf chimed in that just as important as bringing in Spanish ingredients is "bringing in Spanish foodways and style such as 'tapas.'" Nancy Harmon Jenkins mentioned that in Spain, the King "understands cuisine" and that "in every restaurant, the King of Spain has always 'just been there,'" evidence that strong culinary culture begins prior to the restaurant. Jose Andres elicted chucles by offereing to share the King of Spain with the US.

"What is the future of modern cooking in Spain?" Clara de Amezua pointed out that Spanish cuisine is the product of centuries of culture, with various adaptations added along the way, and that its evolution will continue that way. Thomas Keller, who considers himself "a true francophile" asked "what is real 'Spanish food' vs 'inspirational food?'" He added that "Basque is neither French nor Spanish -- it is Basque." He opined that modern cuisine is more "personality cuisine" that "goes beyond borders" and that "inspiration is more important than creation." He said that "this forum (was) a great way to find inspiration" and that after the inspiration comes evolution.

More discussion ensued on the interplay of traditional and vanguard cooking in Spain. Jose Andres noted that the creative chefs are the ones with the vast majority of the limited number of Michelin stars seemingly available in Spain, and that they were necessary to support everyone else. Moreover, it is the vanguard chefs who have been pushing for quality, artisanal produce. Richard Clark noted that when he visited the Adria's Taller in Barcelona everyone ate tortilla Espanola, at which point Norman van Aken asked, "Why not have it both ways?" He said that it was fun to play with tradition and turn it around and likened the process to having both acoustic and electric Bob Dylan. Dr. Tim Ryan stated that the interplay between tradition and innovation was really only pertinent in Spain and Europe right now. He listed obstacles on the path to a higher profile for Spanish cuisine in the US, most the Spanish immigration necessary to create demand for the cuisine; the innovations of Ferran Adria are largely what has captured the US imagination to date.

Nancy Harmon Jenkins asked what the audience could take away from the discussion. David Rosengarten replied: tradition tweaked with personal idiosyncracies is something of value. Karen McNeil noted that the dichotomy discussed is not really felt in the world of Spanish wine -- that there is "a harmony between alta expresion and tradition, as the Spanish are very insular about their varietals." She asked, "What if the greatest wines in the world have yet to be discovered?" (The resurgence of the Spanish wine industry is a major reason for this question.) Anya Von Bremzen agreed that modern vs traditional "is not an either-or situation" so long as they are used appropriately." This theme recurred throughout the conference; indeed, I had heard often in Spain as well, where at El Bulli, Ferran Adria had said that his cooking was based on traditional Catalan cuisine.

Talk turned to the situation of artisanal food products in the US. Thomas Keller called the situation against foie gras "abominable" and that the industry happens to be an "easy mark," upon which Dr. Ryan wondered if we were "at the dawn of a new era of dietary prohibition," asking "what's next?"

The panel finished with Ariane Broadbent stating from the audience that "everything is fusion and evolution over and over again." Gerry Dawes, returning to the theme of modern vs. traditional in Spain, noted that "one of the most important movements in Spain is 'modern traditional.'" Jose Andres concluded by noting that "tradition of today was yesterday's avant-garde and today's avant-garde will be tomorrow's tradition -- the good stuff will survive!"

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All photos by the author.