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The Supreme eG Pastry and Baking Challenge


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#1 Shalmanese

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 12:04 PM

And we're onto Round 5 of the Supreme eGullet Pastry and Baking Challenge and I would like to welcome our new challenger chiantiglace up to the plate.

For those of you just joining us, the Challenge involves one contestant, picked by the previous week's challenger, to create a dessert based on a particular theme. Here are the previous challenges:

Round 1 - Take pineapple upside down cake and bring it into this century
Round 2 - Make a dessert containing an animal ingredient or product other than lard or bacon
Round 3 - Create a deconstructed beer dessert
Round 4 - Create a dessert tapas plate consisting of 7 items in 7 days, using local and seasonal flavours

In my last challenge, I created a set of 7 tapas that was meant to reflect on each course of a 6 course dinner menu I had planned as well as one additional mystery tapas which turned out to be a Vegemite & Parmesan Cheesecake.

chiantiglace is a student at the CIA and an incredibly talented baker. He also shares an affinty for molecular gastronomy and how innovative technologies and techniques affect the culinary world so I'm proud to pass the torch onto him.

Autumn is coming into my little part of the world and I see the leaves starting to turn yellow and shed. One of my earliest memories of Autumn is the smell of piles of leaves being burnt and that smell still carries me back to this day.

So, my challenge to you, chiantiglace is to create a dessert involving smoke that evokes Autumn.

Let the games begin!
PS: I am a guy.

#2 hosinmigs

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 01:17 PM

As I'm reading this, I see that chiantiglaze is also reading it. So, I hope he's up to the challenge. I can't imagine he would say no to something so compelling.

I can't wait to see what happens next. It's like a great cliff hanger on the news :biggrin:

edit: I'm an idiot. (Note to self - read previous Iron Baker challenge before posting in NEW Iron Baker challenge.)

Great luck Anthony.

Edited by hosinmigs, 23 October 2006 - 01:24 PM.

“There is no sincerer love than the love of food.”

#3 Kerry Beal

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 01:20 PM

I've been making some great things with my smoker over the last couple of months. I'm available for consultation Anthony!

#4 chiantiglace

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 01:26 PM

Well I suppose eventually I am going to get pushed into a challenge, so why not get it over with.

I have been somewhat uneasy about the idea of doing a challenge at this point in my life because I am in unfamiliar territory. Currently I am in west palm beach which is about 750 miles from my home in north carolina and another 750 miles from my second home at school in New York.

I have limited equipment of my own at this current time since I am only here temporarily. I am also working an average of 55 hours a week at the breakers, so I am going to have to attack this challenge head on.

Currently I have so many ideas running through my head that it may just take me a week just to decide on the next challenge and person.

Before I procede, I must thank Shalmanese for tagging me and for Kerry to have started such a wonderful project that I am delighted to now be a part of.

Also, the tapas, in my opinion, was a sensational contribution to this set of events. I think it was important to bring out a different idea so soon. The tapas was not really a technique challenge (even though Shalmanese challenged herself anyways), it was actually for of an effort challenge. To compose so many ideas to flow together was definately different than what I would have anticipated for a challenge. I would have assumed that all challenges would be like mine and the others. To take one idea and to expand on that. Instead, the previous challenge took a way of eating into the dessert world. I hope with this kind of expansion we can really come up with some interesting challenges. I just hope mine can be at the same level of creativity.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#5 chiantiglace

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 01:44 PM

So, smoke it is.

One post, a while back, from Ted Nicely about a place he worked for briefly had utilized a smoke chocolate. Ever since then I had contimplated the idea of smoke chocolate and all sorts of other things.

With this urge of knowledge I had taken the notion to many chef instructors I knew just to guage a reaction from them. Many didnt give me much feedback at all. One instructor did though, my soon to be confections instructor. We actually discussed it for a decent 10 minutes, where he gave me a very interesting idea. Unfortunately it would be very difficult to "smoke chocolate" because it would assumingly melt and creat a mess. But what if there was a way to cool the smoke and get it to "fall", possibly under the chocolate and leave it there. The atmosphere of a sealed container would definately contain a strong smoke flavor that would eventually be absorbed by the chocolate. I think the main concerns are the temperature of the chocolate, and the filtering of the smoke to lessen the debris.

So it seems I will be making a trip or two to home depot.


Now, before anyone checks back at me for chocolate, I am not necessarily going to utilize chocolate in the end dessert, but I would like to see where this goes.

There are many other things we can smoke too. The part of the challenge that is going to be roughest for me is utilizing autumn flavors. I am in florida so , if you have ever been here late in the year its not as if you will be raking up the leaves from your sidewalk, if you catch my drift.

It really does not feel like autumn here, but I will try to create the illusion. I have a whole foods up in PGA that I will be visiting in the next couple of hours, so I will give you feedback on what I am capable of doing.

I think the first step I should take right now is to give a smoke flavor to as many items as I can to see what pairs well. so far I am thinking:
Pears
Apples
Caramel
Lemongrass
hazelnuts
pecans
walnuts (definately)
parsnip
beet
corn
butternut squash
thyme

I am sure there will be many many more to come as I start to explore and open up my mind. Peppers may even be an option.

We will see, and please dont be shy about discussion.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#6 Irishgirl

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 02:30 PM

I somehow thought that you would be the next participant. I look forward to your contibution as I am interested in your take on things.

FWIW, Smoke with apples and pears is outstanding. Think about how either one of those goes with bacon.

Carry on.

#7 slbunge

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 02:45 PM

I think the first step I should take right now is to give a smoke flavor to as many items as I can to see what pairs well.  so far I am thinking:
Pears
Apples
Caramel
Lemongrass
hazelnuts
pecans
walnuts (definately)
parsnip
beet
corn
butternut squash
thyme

I am sure there will be many many more to come as I start to explore and open up my mind.  Peppers may even be an option.

We will see, and please dont be shy about discussion.

View Post

A few others that come to mind:

ginger
honey
hickory nuts (and if you smoke them over hickory it could be interesting)
plums

Edited by slbunge, 23 October 2006 - 02:46 PM.

Stephen Bunge
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#8 Shalmanese

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 03:01 PM

(even though Shalmanese challenged herself anyways)

View Post


Grah! I am man! Why I keep be mistaken as woman?

As for smoked chocolates, see My post and this article for some ideas. A quick google reveals this and Ideas in Food for some added inspiration.

Edited by Shalmanese, 23 October 2006 - 03:01 PM.

PS: I am a guy.

#9 Desiderio

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 04:12 PM

Grah! I am man! Why I keep be mistaken as woman?


Umm I always thought you were a guy , err MAN ! :laugh:


Looking foward to see this one as well , I miss the feeling of autumn , fireplace and the smell of burning wood , the cold breeze, umm something with a nice robust red wine , why not you are in florida , good wine there also .
Vanessa

#10 Kerry Beal

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 04:21 PM

I think building your own cold smoker might be pushing it a bit for a one week challenge. Using smoked ingredients like cheese or bacon (pig candy - epicurious) might get around having to do your own smoking. Or smoked salt or liquid smoke, which is real smoke. When I am finished smoking things I have a puddle of oily residue on the vent (liquid smoke) .

If you have access to someone with a cold smoker you can smoke chocolate. It will likely melt while being smoked even at cool temperatures, but if you are mixing it into something then the temper doesn't matter. But you should be able to temper it even with the smoke.

#11 chiantiglace

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 04:26 PM

(even though Shalmanese challenged herself anyways)

View Post


Grah! I am man! Why I keep be mistaken as woman?

As for smoked chocolates, see My post and this article for some ideas. A quick google reveals this and Ideas in Food for some added inspiration.

View Post



HA, appologies Shalman.


I actually dont know why I even adressed you as man or woman. I typically write clear of that distinction even when I know.


I use to have a very good friend with the name Shaman who was a girl, so everytime I see your title I automatically think of her. It was more than likely just a random subconcious act.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#12 chiantiglace

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 04:37 PM

I think building your own cold smoker might be pushing it a bit for a one week challenge.  Using smoked ingredients like cheese or bacon (pig candy - epicurious) might get around having to do your own smoking.  Or smoked salt or liquid smoke, which is real smoke.  When I am finished smoking things I have a puddle of oily residue on the vent (liquid smoke) .

If you have access to someone with a cold smoker you can smoke chocolate.  It will likely melt while being smoked even at cool temperatures, but if you are mixing it into something then the temper doesn't matter.  But you should be able to temper it even with the smoke.

View Post



Oh dont slow me down just yet. The worst thing anyone could ever do to me is say "thats too much", because its either all or nothing with me.

Who knows, maybe I'll stumble upon cold fusion while making my cold smoker. HAHAHA!


on the drive home I developed several ideas. This is going to be a hellacious week. The second my mind is sparked and I have a goal to reach, there is no getting out of the way. Looks like its going to be many sleepless nights and constant alterations. Dont be surprised if I presnt 3 plates at the end of THIS week.


P.S. I have a couple seckel pears, gala apples, lemongrass, some herbs and some cherry chiles.

Also considering utilizing cocoa butter and xanthan in a small percentage of the final outcome.

Lets see where this goes.

Edited by chiantiglace, 23 October 2006 - 04:38 PM.

Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#13 gfron1

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 05:04 PM

When I told my employee about this challenge she asked if marijuana brownies would count as a smoked dessert...I told her, only if it improves the flavor.

Chef, Curious Kumquat, Silver City, NM


#14 K8memphis

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 05:11 PM

When I told my employee about this challenge she asked if marijuana brownies would count as a smoked dessert...I told her, only if it improves the flavor.

View Post


Pot grates the throat as you swallow like dry parsley.
Hashish in brownies goes down much smoother.
But that's just what I heard... :wink:

#15 Shalmanese

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 07:58 PM

Oh dont slow me down just yet.  The worst thing anyone could ever do to me is say "thats too much", because its either all or nothing with me.

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This is the point at which I realise I made the right choice for the next challenger :cool:.
PS: I am a guy.

#16 hosinmigs

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 03:56 AM

I think the easiest things to incorporate are probably nuts and peppers. I can't say peppers evoke autumn for me, but maybe they do in Mexico. I don't know.
“There is no sincerer love than the love of food.”

#17 chiantiglace

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 04:50 AM

Well, I am starting to think this challenge is a curse not a blessing. Everyone here has had an issue, but nothing like this.

This morning around 6:30 while I was driving down the road my top (of a jeep wrangler) decided to fly off behind me shattering the window. I am still baffled at how this happened. I was only going 35 miles an hour and I have had that thing in hurricane weather with no screws in the front part.

I guess some of the bolts got loose and unfortunately stripped off. I couldnt find any of the originals once I got me, my jeep, and the top off the road. But thankfully I found my spare bolts (ones I had incase I couldnt find the originals after taking the top off in the summer) in the back of my jeep. Unfortunately there were only 2 for the back and 3 for the front, but it got me home.

I am very thankful that the top didnt fly off and fall into another car, I am surprised it didnt with the way people drive around here. I am also thankful that someone didnt hit because they were paying attention while I was stalled. Who I am not thankful for is the WPB Police Department. They showed up 45 minutes after I called them, after I dragged my top across the 3 lane highway, after I turned it over, picked it up and re-attached it myself. Ohwell.

Posted Image


I must say, this challenge is not the greatest of my worries right now. But we will see where the week takes us.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#18 Tweety69bird

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 05:04 AM

Glad to hear you are ok... :biggrin:
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#19 rooftop1000

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 07:20 AM

Sorry about the jeep, the biggest thing that ever came off one of my cars were the louvers on the back window of a 75 skyhawk.

Smoked chocolate == smoked cocoa powder
Peppers....chipolte == smoked jalepenos

carry on

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#20 chiantiglace

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 07:56 AM

well thank god I am getting it fixed today so the only I will have to worry about later is paying for it. That also means I can semi-resume all the other things in life like this.



The peppers is not for "autumn" per se, I only want to smoke the peppers and add a small amount to a pear puree to give it a little extra kick. Its not all a feature in the dessert, just another little piece of the puzzle.

currently I am thinking of making a pear half gel (do some experimenting) with some xanthan and gelatin in hopes of making it elastic when semi-freddo. My flan is to make a puree that holds it self just long enough at a very cold temperatur so that I can coil it or shape it how I want. After I am thinking of making a seal for it from lemongrass infused cocoa butter and possibly a small amount of white chocolate. Then I am thinking of coating my "half-gel" so that when it comes up to room temp it will have more of a burst in the mouth.

I need to think of something with texture. And for some reason I cant get sour cream ice cream out of my mind.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#21 Patrick S

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 08:18 AM

When I told my employee about this challenge she asked if marijuana brownies would count as a smoked dessert...I told her, only if it improves the flavor.

View Post


Pot grates the throat as you swallow like dry parsley.
Hashish in brownies goes down much smoother.
But that's just what I heard... :wink:

View Post


And butane-extracted honey oil works best of all. All the potency, none of the icky flavors or textures. A little dab will do ya, for sure. Pot can work fine too, you just have to powder it and let the cannabinoids dissolve into warm melted butter or oil, and then strain it back out.
"If you are irritated by every rub, how will you be polished?" - Rumi

#22 Kerry Beal

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 08:53 AM

I think building your own cold smoker might be pushing it a bit for a one week challenge.  Using smoked ingredients like cheese or bacon (pig candy - epicurious) might get around having to do your own smoking.  Or smoked salt or liquid smoke, which is real smoke.  When I am finished smoking things I have a puddle of oily residue on the vent (liquid smoke) .

If you have access to someone with a cold smoker you can smoke chocolate.  It will likely melt while being smoked even at cool temperatures, but if you are mixing it into something then the temper doesn't matter.  But you should be able to temper it even with the smoke.

View Post



Oh dont slow me down just yet. The worst thing anyone could ever do to me is say "thats too much", because its either all or nothing with me.

Who knows, maybe I'll stumble upon cold fusion while making my cold smoker. HAHAHA!


on the drive home I developed several ideas. This is going to be a hellacious week. The second my mind is sparked and I have a goal to reach, there is no getting out of the way. Looks like its going to be many sleepless nights and constant alterations. Dont be surprised if I presnt 3 plates at the end of THIS week.


P.S. I have a couple seckel pears, gala apples, lemongrass, some herbs and some cherry chiles.

Also considering utilizing cocoa butter and xanthan in a small percentage of the final outcome.

Lets see where this goes.

View Post

Here you go then, two threads on buildng your own smoker.

Here

and here

#23 chiantiglace

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 06:49 PM

Well, I finally got some work done on this project and I am feeling good.

My jeep is fixed, but it will never be the same. That aside I am fully devoting my concentration on the challenge.

I must say, after the process was done, and people tasted it I had very mixed opinions. 3 out of 4 men liked it all. The one male liked the apple but nothing else. He also said he doesnt even like savory food smoked, so I wasnt really hurt. 2 out of 2 women did not like any of it. 2 other women wouldnt even taste it because they said they hate the flavor of smoke.

And personally, I absolutely loved it. I do enjoy smoke flavor quite a bit (must be that north carolinian in me) but I could easy eat a whole smoked apple.

I put together an interesting piece to smoke everything in. I took a little advice from some other chefs in how they have been sucsessful, seeing as it was I dont have a smoker, the smoker at work is big enough to fit 3 of me inside (rendering is pointless for me to smoke a couple handfulls of things) and all the other methods I have used smoking things were just impractical with my surroundings.


What happened was I constructed two hotel pans, a 4 inch deep containing the smoldering apple wood with a perforated 2 inch hotel pan ontop lined with alumminum foil. I poked a few holes at the empty end of it. I lined another piece over top of the food and poked a small whole at the opposite end so that the smoke would travel across the fruit to escape.

Posted Image

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I must say I was estatic to find apple wood. The smell, with a smoking cinnamon stick was phenomenal. I smelled like smoke, but I also smelled like bacon and cinnamon buns, ha!

If you notice with these pictures the fruit gained significant, and beautiful colors. Especially the apples.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image
sorry, poor focus

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image


So the sour cream ice cream is fluxuating in my head. I am trying to think of something better to clear the tongue of smoke flavor. I really think it goes with the smoked pear, but a couple people have given me the raised brow over it.

on a seperate plate I am still contemplating what would be better, butternut cake or ice cream. And I am still contemplating what will go good with it. I sure some ideas will come in.

any thoughts?
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#24 chiantiglace

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 06:51 PM

Oh ad by the way, what is in front of you are seckel pears, bosc pear, gala apples, cherry chillis, and butternut squash.

Also they were smoked at around 150 - 180 degrees for 2 hours. The seckel pears were pulled out half way through though.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#25 K8memphis

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 08:06 PM

Looks very interesting.

#26 Kouign Aman

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Posted 26 October 2006 - 09:20 PM

Sour yet sweet icecream ought to work with your smoked fruit.
Isnt one of the classic barbecue styles based on vinegar and mustard? That'd be on the tangy side, no?

But what flavor sour, to compliment pears? Tamarindo perhaps?
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#27 Mette

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Posted 28 October 2006 - 07:49 AM

It is looking very interesting - Can't wait to see the result! The idea of smoked friut is appealing - how about smoking fresh walnuts?

#28 Irishgirl

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Posted 28 October 2006 - 09:02 AM

I am trying to think of something better to clear the tongue of smoke flavor.


Rosemary sorbet would go excellent with the pears or apples, and would probably be bright enough to clean the palate.

Carry On!

#29 chiantiglace

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Posted 28 October 2006 - 12:46 PM

I very very much like the idea of rosemary sorbet. But I am set on something sour and have made up my mind to make a sour cream and lemon/grass sorbet.

I have skipped the pears because they just havent gotten very much appeal. But everyone seems to love the apples. They do have a very strong smoke flavor to them, more than what I need.

Currently I am think of dicing up the apples and forming them with maybe a cardamon or clove caramel and toasted walnuts.

with it will be lemongrass and white chocolate confections, more of the caramel sauce and possibly a lemongrass syrup or sauce of some sort, maybe like a lemongrass creme fraiche.

Who knows for garnish though.

Even though the smoke flavor is in only one component, I consider it the primary piece and it has enough smoke to carry over to everything.


I am still thinking about the butternut. I may post that on monday or tuesday as a bonus dessert. I kind of want to take my time on that one.

But the more I think about this, the better it is comming out. I am glad I have made the changes I have. Usually I make changes because the intended result was unaccomplishable. Now its being changed for simply, the better.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#30 K8memphis

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Posted 29 October 2006 - 06:59 AM

Clo-ove caramel!!! Oooh mmmm!!!
Whoever thought of that??!! Too cool.

I like curliques of any size and shape for any garnish.

Since I am cake deco oriented and not plate dessert
oriented I think smoke looking curliques are an idea.
Wafts of smoke cooked sugar maybe? Pour some cooked
sugar onto a silpat, take a fork and pull it out on the top
like smoke wafts and then when it cools a minute pull and
twist the rest of it to look like curling smoke.
Or use chocolate. Just an idea...

Edited by K8memphis, 29 October 2006 - 07:05 AM.