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eG Foodblog: hathor - Carpe Diem

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#1 hathor

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:11 AM

You say: “Permesso?”
I say: “Certo!”

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In my area, it’s polite to ask if you may enter someone’s house, by asking, “Permesso?” For some reason, it’s a lovely, endearing thing to hear, and even children will ask before entering.
I’m inviting you now, to join me in my house in Italy, in the region of Umbria, in the province of Perugia, in the town of Montone, on via Garibaldi.
Uhhmmm, it’s a small town (about 800 people, just to give you some perspective on small), you may not find it on a map, but we do have a town website!
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We live in Montone about six months out of the year, and the rest of the time we spend in New York City and thereabouts. But, this week we are in Umbria. Our neck of the woods is fairly rural, the terrain is steep and hilly. The primary industry is agriculture; right now the feed corn and tobacco are being harvested. Sheep farms are abundant, which means I have access to excellent cheeses. I’m hoping to introduce you to some of the people that produce the food we eat. “Eating local” isn’t a politically correct choice here; it’s just the way it is.
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Why “Carpe Diem”? Yes, it does say Carpe Diem, tattooed on my son’s leg. About 3 years ago, my husband and I decided to seize the moment. We closed up our business in New York and decided we wanted to spend more time in our house in Italy. We bought the house in 2001 and I’m going to guess you have the same question that everyone else asks us, “How did you find this place?” As a family, we have traveled a lot, and in his junior year in high school, our son Curtis took one of those class trips to Italy. He had been to Italy a few times before this, but this time he came home, and said, “You’ve have got to go to Assisi. I could live there.” It was an unusually passionate response from him, which may have been influenced by the fact that he ate exceptionally good truffles while he was there. By now we knew we wanted a house in Italy, so we schedule an appointment with a realtor and we looked at everything from total ruins to finished villas with grapevines and tractors. The last place we looked at was described as a townhouse in a medieval village. We were goners before we even entered the front port of the town. Why live in the countryside where we don’t speak the language, we don’t know anyone, when we can live in town. Hey, we’ve lived in NYC for 150 years, we are city folk. It was a great move, I cannot begin to tell you how warm, inviting and welcoming the townspeople are, not to mention a tiny bit nutty. I hope you get to know some of my neighbors this week.

Last spring, I attended the Ital.cook school in Jesi. It’s run by Slow Food and teaches students about regional Italian cooking. I’m in my early 50’s, and I lived for 10 weeks in a dorm with a bunch of wacky, wonderful ragazzi (young people) and had the time of my life. These days, I write a little, and teach a little and cook a lot of Italian food. My husband is involved in the “Tower Project”: Torre de Moravola. We are helping our friends restore a medieval watchtower that will eventually become a full service rentable villa or small hotel. It is a fantastic place!! We are up to the point we need to do some creative financing to finish the project, but hey, we knew there would be bumps in the road. If all goes well, I’ll be the chef at the tower.

#2 johnder

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:13 AM

Good luck hathor! Looking forward to reading a blog, as opposed to writing one this week!

John
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#3 therese

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:14 AM

Really looking forward to this blog. Thanks for doing it.
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#4 hathor

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:16 AM

That’s enough background for now! What’s in my fridge??? Just about nothing!! Take a look.
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Couple bottles of water, one wine bottle, a jar of ricotta forte (!!), Walker’s Jerk sauce that I brought from NY, by far my favorite Jerk seasoning, and some old cheeses. We just came back late last night from a fantastic vacation with my husband’s brother and sister: few days in Rome, then on to Pompei, then a week in Puglia in the Salento area, that’s down at the very tip of the heel. We had a blast! But, I have no food in the house. Poor me. See these bowls?? They are usually full of fruit and vegetables. Depressing sight. I usually get most of my fresh produce at the market in Umbertide on Wednesday mornings. I’ll pick up a few things today at the Coop (its like a Shop Rite, but run by the Communist party…or so I’m told) to hold me over, but we’re all going have to wait until Wes. to really stock up. Back to the fridge, yes, it is a dorm size fridge. Yes, that is tape all over the itty bitty freezer part. The door broke and the only way I can keep the fridge from frosting over is by taping that door shut. I have a secret though, I have another refrigerator in the garage….think of it as long term parking. It’s a full size fridge, and it has a freezer, where I can make….ICE!! Italians, and Europeans in general don’t go in for a lot of ice. My husband likes ice, so last summer we bought a full fridge and for his birthday, I made him lots and lots of ice. Hey! It took days! OK! Sometimes it’s the simple things that we treasure most.
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Today was breakfast at home. French style café au lait made in the moka, and foamy milk made with the chuga-chuga. This is a simple device: container that holds milk and can be heated, a screen on a stem. Milk heats up, you plunge the screen up and down a few times, voila, no fuss, no muss and you have a great cappuccino. Brilliant! I had some cornflakes and raisins, while thinking wistfully of Pontormo and peaches. Jeff had some biscotti and then we had to run to Perugia to return the rental car.
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Lunch was a quicky: cherry tomatoes, anchovies, chili peppers, capers, black olives, onion, garlic over some pasta. Green salad, glass of Verdicchio and we are good to go.

See you around dinner time, ok? :biggrin:

#5 Pontormo

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:34 AM

Saluti!!!! Judith, as you know full well, I am sooooo happy to see you launch this blog! Since Assisi is one of my favorite places on earth, the story of your son's response to his first visit made me grin.

I actually thought that jar on the top shelf of your fridge was yogurt. One thing I miss here in the fall is the way pear yogurt is sold in sweet little round jars. Never heard the word "chuga-chuga" before. In solidarity, I'm going to dust off my moka and use it; it's now serving as decoration on a shelf somewhere.

I am very much looking forward to your trips to markets, seeing your home, mist rising up the hillside early in the morning and all that stuff that makes you want to roll your eyes when it's in yet another corny cliche-ridden movie about the way the Priggish and Repressed Anglos become alive in Italia--but makes you giddy and content when you are smack dab in the middle of it all.

ETA: The ONLY time I eat fiocchi di mais is in Italy! Nowadays, they're "biologique" of course.

Translation: organic

Edited by Pontormo, 02 October 2006 - 10:07 AM.

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#6 Chufi

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:37 AM

this is going to be good, I know it. I'm looking forward to some Italian inspiration for my kitchen.. happy blogging!

Edited by Chufi, 02 October 2006 - 09:51 AM.


#7 Liz Johnson

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 10:00 AM

Yay!
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#8 Kevin72

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 10:01 AM

Great news. Really looking forward to this one. A whole week in Italy!

#9 Safran

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 10:09 AM

Wonderful!!! I was in dire need of a "holiday"...this will be it! I'm ready!

#10 Flocko

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 10:25 AM

Hathor:

I'm really looking forward to this blog!! :biggrin:
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#11 racheld

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 10:43 AM

YESSSSSSSSSSS!!
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#12 Kouign Aman

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 11:10 AM

Happy dance! It IS your blog. More Happydance!
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#13 hathor

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 11:11 AM

chuga-chuga is not a real word. yet. But everyone who comes to house winds up going to the store to get a chuga-chuga. Spread the word. I have no idea what they are really called. :blink:

Thanks for all the encouragement. I'm currently battling with the image upload, but I'll be back!

#14 Catriona

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 12:24 PM

Delighted to see this!

#15 Swisskaese

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 12:26 PM

Ciao Bella!

I am so excited!!!!!! Your fridge is a carbon copy of the fridge I had in Lugano. A guest broke my door my leaning on it while it was open. :hmmm: So, I taped it just like you did.

#16 weinoo

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 12:50 PM

Really looking forward to this, hathor! Molte grazie!

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#17 Kerry Beal

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 01:22 PM

This is going to be a treat. Can't wait.

#18 Eden

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 03:30 PM

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Quanto bello!
Really looking forward to a vicarious visit to Italy. Can we please have at least one food-porn shot of a gelato counter please :rolleyes:
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#19 H. du Bois

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 04:04 PM

Oh, my! Hooked from photograph number one. :smile:

#20 snowangel

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 06:55 PM

Oh, so many questions and comments!

I know well the allure of being a city person with a remote destination. In my case, it is a spring/summer/fall accessible cabin, and in my case, groceries are a good 30-mile round trip, but never-the-less...

I'm under the impression that language may be a difficulty? Please elaborate!

And, do tell how your life when you return to NYC is different, please.

And, Curtis. What's he doing these days?

Finally, I'm hoping for a good report of your farmer's market, and what's available.
Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"

#21 judiu

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 06:56 PM

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Quanto bello!
Really looking forward to a vicarious visit to Italy. Can we please have at least one food-porn shot of a gelato counter please :rolleyes:

View Post



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#22 MarketStEl

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 08:41 PM

Great opening shot! Though if the town's as dense as it looks in the opening shot and has only 800 residents, it can't be too big around--what? the main street is 2 blocks long, maybe?

What are the principal foodstuffs grown in your part of Umbria?

And do you belong to Slow Food?

[...] I’ll pick up a few things today at the Coop (its like a Shop Rite, but run by the Communist party…or so I’m told)[...]

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With a name like that ("coop"=shortened form of "co-operative"), I'm not at all surprised. Is it a membership organization? Are members required to contribute labor if it is, and are there any benefits to joining (e.g., patronage rebate or lower prices)?

The Italian Communists are still around? What do they advocate these days?

Looking forward to seeing lots of lovely scenery and equally lovely food.
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#23 Abra

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:22 PM

Cool, Judith! Is your home in that lovely building?

#24 snowangel

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 09:26 PM

Posted Image
Lunch was a quicky: cherry tomatoes, anchovies, chili peppers, capers, black olives, onion, garlic over some pasta. Green salad, glass of Verdicchio and we are good to go.

See you around dinner time, ok?  :biggrin:

View Post


Show us where you get your pasta and what your anchovies ( :wub: :wub: ) look like where you get them!
Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"

#25 Pan

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 10:21 PM

Buon giorno, hathor! I could continue in Italian but won't, out of respect for the others. I'm very happy to see you doing an Italian blog as a sort of sequel to the New York blog you did some time ago.

My father has a very old friend who lives most of the time in the countryside near Umbertide but retains an apartment in Rome, and when I was studying at the Academia Chigiana in Siena, I spent a long weekend visiting friends who spend every summer living in an old farmhouse in the Gubbese countryside and painting landscapes. Their two sons are fully bilingual.

The cities I've visited in Umbria are Gubbio, Perugia, and Orvieto, and also spent 10 days at a flute master class in Spoleto. (I have yet to make it to Assisi.) I like those Umbrese dishes with mushrooms and black truffles, and I also like the acqua minerale from Nocera Umbra.

#26 hathor

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 10:58 PM

Buongiorno tutti!! First, a morning rant: I have really, really, really, really slow internet, so loading pictures is a bit frustrating, but hang in there, I'll figure out some method. This is the Italian way: first complain, complain, then eventually......you complain a bit more. Complaining is a fine art here, but its not usually taken too seriously. :laugh:

Let me try and catch up with your questions while I'm waiting for some photos to load.
Pan: you've been to Umbertide?? I'm having a love affair with Umbertide right now. Its basically a farm town, and I'll do a tour later. But traffic in Hanoi! Bah! We sneeze at traffic in Hanoi. Driving in Umbertide is like riding the gaunlet....medieval size streets, kamikaze old ladies on motorized bicylces (seriously this old lady must by 102 with a blue bike and I swear she aims for you), mammoth 2 story tractors, text messaging ragazzi, those 3 wheel API's, and circle of death roundabouts. Like Hanoi, top speed is around 10-15 MPH because you also must chat with people as you go by.

House questions: Yes! That is our house. Ground floor has the entry way and garage. A garage is a very valuable thing in this town, people would kill to have a garage on a driveable street. First floor is the kitchen, see the long window? I'll get somebody to wave to us...either my husband or one of the cats. Second floor has a bedroom, living room, and balcony bedroom. Third floor has 2 bedrooms, 2 small in the hall sort of offices, a kitchen hob (cool feature, show you later) and we have a roof top terazzo. Oh, a drying room/boiler room. There are no 'tumble dryers' in Umbria. I went to buy one and the man said, "Why?"

Montone is very tiny and very dense, it s a walled in city. There are 2 driveable streets, but you cannot park or leave a car on the street. Yesterday was 'traffico intenso' on via Garibaldi. I was going out of the street and someone was coming in. It was chaotic I tell you.

Language: oy-veh!! I'm running right now because we have Italian lessons twice a week.

Swisskaese: this one is for you. You may have my fridge, but do you have a concrete encased oven?? Posted Image

Gelato: I'll try later at the bar. It's almost out of season here. Yes, even the gelato is seasonal. :laugh: :laugh:

#27 Swisskaese

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 12:44 AM

You are living Tapenade's and my dream. We would love to have a casa colonica.

No, I do not have an oven in concrete. You definitely got me on that one.

Edited by Swisskaese, 03 October 2006 - 01:04 AM.


#28 markemorse

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 01:05 AM

hi hathor!

pretty excited about this blog...my wife and i had a simlar impulse back in 2000 and moved from the states to Siena, Tuscany...

are those strozzapretti? one of our top 10 bowls of pasta in Italy was strozzapretti in a creamy sauce with pancetta and shrooms...eaten after valiantly struggling up the nearly vertical hill that is Urbino, which I'm sure contributed to our satisfaction with this lunch...

and are strozzapretti strictly regional? i never had (or saw) them again during our time in Italy.

mark

Edited by markemorse, 03 October 2006 - 03:24 AM.


#29 Franci

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 01:30 AM

Buongiorno tutti!! First, a morning rant: I have really, really, really, really slow internet, so loading pictures is a bit frustrating, but hang in there, I'll figure out some method. This is the Italian  way: first complain, complain, then eventually......you complain a bit more. Complaining is a fine art here, but its not usually taken too seriously.  :laugh:




:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: That's so true!

I am really looking forward to your blog, thanks Judith!

Edited by Franci, 03 October 2006 - 03:48 AM.


#30 Pan

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Posted 03 October 2006 - 02:15 AM

I haven't been to Umbertide; my father's old friend wasn't reachable until I had to leave and ran out of time. I know another artist who spends or at least used to spend summers somewhere between Gubbio and Umbertide, come to think of it. It's really beautiful countryside -- for those of you who are familiar with the rolling hills of Vermont and other parts of New England, Umbria is something like that, but with the additional picturesque elements of old stone Italian farmhouses and vineyards.





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