95 replies to this topic

[offcentre]

that does indeed answer my question - very interesting - thank you.

[Jon Tseng]

that does indeed answer my question - very interesting - thank you.

you're welcome.

for more background look at patricia wells cuisine actuelle / simply french book, although take the qualitative comments with a pinch of sale as shes a bit of a robuchon groupie

ta

J

[Andy Lynes]

I was going to make some unsavoury crack about her being the Pamela Des Barres of the cookery world, but as I got my "Cuisine des Quatre Saisions" cookbook signed by the great man on Saturday, I'm probably on fairly shaky ground.

[Matthew Grant]

We had dinner at La Cuisine last night with mixed results. I'll start with the service which was amateurish at times. The bar (which I was encouraged to use when I made my booking) is tiny and when we arrived 45 minutes before our table they had no room but we were advised we could stand at the bar, except there is no room to stand at the bar as the staff use it to as the route to the tables. We were fortunate(?) to be moved quickly to a table which had no lights above it so we were quite literally in the dark. Cocktails (French 75 and a Classic Champagne Cocktail) were OK but nothing to write home about, they cost £13 each. After finishing our drinks we asked to be shown to our table, a waiter returned and advised that they were trying to find us a table. This confused me as we were already booked and they had already asked us if we wanted to be seated early! 15 minutes later I asked if there was a problem only to realise that they had actually forgotten about us (probably because they couldn't see us in the dark), only then were we taken to our table.

We were escorted down in the lift to the first floor restaurant where there were approximately 20 covers - not what I would expect of a major new opening. There were spaces at L'Atelier when we arrived as well although the receptionist told me there were no spaces available. Is the site jinxed, the maitre d' advised that it was a deliberate policy until things were running smoothly

Overall Service was friendly but clumsy. Cocktails had to be asked for twice, our table was so dark the waitress couldn't even see where to put our glasses, in the restaurant we asked for a glass of champagne which only arrived 10 minutes later after we were asked a second time if we wanted an aperitif. Water also had to be asked for twice. I realise they are bedding in but these are basic mistakes. According to the receptionist Robuchon left on Monday but "he is with us in spirit" (reach for the bucket), according to a waiter he left yesterday.

On to the food, we chose small plates all the way. An amuse of Lemon jelly, fennel cream, tapenade and basil oil was fine individually but the lemon overpowered everything when taken as a whole and the basil oil didn't seem to make an appearance.

Les Legumes was a selection of vegetables sat atop a basil pastry. Asparagus made an unnecessary appearance for the time of year and added nothing to the dish. The pastry was terrible, like cardboard and combined with the dressing it had a terrible artificial taste. A shame as the vegetables would have been nice, the pastry would have been far better with a small disc of puff pastry.

Iberico Bellotta with tomato bread was a good size portion of exceptional ham which the waiter confirmed was Joselito, freshly carved and an instant punch in the mouth. Superb. Tomato bread was some derisory flavoured chopped tomatoes on bread - why bother? there was probably wround 50gms of ham, at Brindisa you can buy 50gms for around £8 so £9 for the dish seemed a relative bargain and once again the ham was superb.

Langoustine fritter was an eye watering £20 for 2 superb Langoustines cooked just so, a small piece of Basil beneath the thin crisp batter. We were advised to dip the Langoustines in the pesto they came with but in my opinion Langoustines like this should be adorned with as little as possible, the basil under the pastry was enough and the pesto threw it out of balance a little.

Mackerel tart was also a delight, crisp pastry topped with translucent slices of mackerel, barely warmed through, olives and parmesan.

Next came a "gift from the chef", 2 scallops still in their shell, roe removed. cooked with generous quantities of butter. A good scallop but I prefer to have mine with a little caremelisation to accentuate there sweetness..

Another service error next when Lamb cutlets with thyme arrived at the same time as the Quail stuffed with foie gras accompanied by truffle mash. That in itself wasn't the problem but our sea bass dish had been missed and arrived about a minute after these 2 were delivered. Reasonable but unexceptional lamb, not comparable to the chops served in the Paris branch. I'm a lover of English lamb, especially as it becomes a little older and develops some stronger notes but the Paris version of this dish was simplicity itself. Previously I described these as having been "taken from its mother moments after birth". The lamb they have sourced was not special enough to serve so simply. A pot of the famous puree was served alongside. Granted it's lovely but it's a cheat. It tastes like butter, pure and simple, lashings of the stuff.

The Quail breast with Foie gras was eaten without even noticing the foie. I chewed on the leg. The truffled mash was also the famous mash with thick slices of summer truffle which had negligible flavour although they had to be sliced very thick to make it noticeable which spoiled the effect.

The Sea bass was advertised with Macaroni stuffed with ricotta, basil juice and olives. It came without any pasta and artichoke instead. We queried this and were advised that the garnish had been changed. We stuck with it but it had caught Rachel's eye because of the pasta and we should have been advised when ordering.

Desserts were pretty much a disaster. Chartreuse Soufflé with pistachio ice cream was over cooked and eggy tasting. Le Rouge Frais was strawberries with Lemon sorbet (I think it was meant to be lemon and basil) and topped with a raspberry cream. The sorbet had clearly been made with too much pith which had turned it horribly bitter, I can't believe that anybody in the kitchen had tasted it before serving it to anybody. The raspberries reminded us of Angel delight.

Overall some good food, some average, some poor and they need to get service sorted out. The bill, including 2 cocktails as described, 2 glasses of champagne (£9), 2 500ml (cheeky) bottles of Evian at £3.50 each, a bottle of Chateau Beaulieu Comtes de Taste at £36 and service at 12.5% it came to 25 pence short of £250. We both could have eaten more.

[Andy Lynes]

Langoustine fritter was an eye watering £20 for 2 superb Langoustines cooked just so, a small piece of Basil beneath the thin crisp batter.

I believe its bric pastry and not batter

The raspberries reminded us of Angel delight.

That's exactly what my wife said.

[Matthew Grant]

I think your right about the pastry judging from the way it was wrapped

[Andy Lynes]

Has Fay's review appeared yet or have I missed it? Can't seem to find it online.

[Matthew Grant]

Not seen it either.

[Jon Tseng]

typical! just when i launch a rant about the masch rushing into review fashionable restaurants too early she holds fire on the fashionablest opening in town for three weeks!

J

[Andy Lynes]

Turns out she's on her hols so don't expect anything for a week or two yet.

[Matthew Grant]

That's a bit of a kick in the teeth for L'Atelier. It doesn't get a star rating because it was reviewed by Nick Curtis instead of Maschler!

The fact that he doesn't seem to undeerstand why a single diner can order the tasting menu while a table of four all have to order it and that he notices no condiments on the table, i'd suggest he wasn't the best person to carry out the review.

A further kick in the teeth is that next to it he reviews the Spaghetti House.

Edited by Matthew Grant, 04 October 2006 - 06:56 AM.

[Matthew Grant]

just noticed that he also did the third review - The Lobster Pot - a restaurant which comes complete with the sound of piped seagulls and tropical fish behind portholes in the wall.

Good to see Robuchon given due respect

[Gary Marshall]

anyone know if AJR is open all day or not?

[Pweaver1984]

Not sure Gary but SquareMeal are usually quite accurate.

Planning a trip down?

[Gary Marshall]

Not sure Gary but SquareMeal are usually quite accurate.

Planning a trip down?

i am in london tomorrow, i'm sure i could find myself in the area for an hour or so at some point

[Bapi]

i am in london tomorrow, i'm sure i could find myself in the area for an hour or so at some point 

Mmmmm, Jay's review is here. Now, note the price of a meal including wine and service for two in his review Gary.
Would you care to tell the nice ladies and gentlemen here, how much you spent on your own on Friday. You greedy bastard- you must have had everything.

Edited by Bapi, 09 October 2006 - 05:09 AM.

[Matthew Grant]

I've no idea how some of the reviewers are managing to eat so cheaply. Depending on what you ordered 6 - 10 plates at around a tenner a plate would not be excessive for one person IMO.

[Gary Marshall]

glass champagne 9
jambon 9
oeuf cocotte 9
ravioli 15
pied de cochon 11
calamar 10
agneau+ extra pommes (gratis) 14
caille 16
chocolate sensation 9
pinot noir crittenden 33 (£20 cheaper than my original choice out of stock santenay, well done to the somellier for that one!)
calvados 9
water 3.50
service 18.88
£169.88

i was stuffed, i thought i'd get through some cheese as well and i even turned down the offer of some crinkle cut chips

[Matthew Grant]

8 dishes plus drinks, some of those dishes are the more substantial ones. I don't think what you ate was unreasonable, if you ate half of that then I reckon you would be pretty hungry, and the bill would have been approximately what the critics are suggesting for 2 people.

[jayrayner]

glass champagne 9
jambon 9
oeuf cocotte 9
ravioli 15
pied de cochon 11
calamar 10
agneau+ extra pommes (gratis) 14
caille 16
chocolate sensation 9
pinot noir crittenden  33 (£20 cheaper than my original choice out of stock santenay, well done to the somellier for that one!)
calvados 9
water 3.50
service 18.88
£169.88

i was stuffed, i thought i'd get through some cheese as well and i even turned down the offer of some crinkle cut chips 

It's easy to run up a bill for one like that - if you have five starters, two main courses, a £33 bottle fine, aperitif and digestif.

My price estimate is based on a (reasonably sized) meal for two, plus a bottle from the lower reaches of the list and a bottle of water. Take off Gary's champagne and calvados, drop the price of the wine and you are well within my £150 top out.

All of which means I think Matthew's six to ten plates each is completely excessive. And I don't think I coudl ever be accused of having a bird like appetitie.

[Andy Fenn]

I was here a couple of weeks ago. Still need to post a review. But between 3 of us, we had 20 plates, I think, and we were comped a selection of tarts each on top. Ended up paying about £110 each for the food. Which is pretty expensive.

Yes, I ate a little more than I needed to, as I wanted to try a lot of the menu. But I certainly wasn't stuffed. I think the best value option by far is to do the tasting menu, which is 7(?) courses for £55, and ask for substitutes of similar priced plates from the carte if something doesn't take your fancy. Kick up a fuss if they say no.

If you think about it, most starred places in the city have at least one amuse, a pre dessert and a butt load of petits fours. You don't get those at l'atelier. So 6 little plates is an easy approximation to a 3 course meal at other places, with trimmings on top.

So I do think it is very expensive. But I had a good time, and I would go back.

[Bapi]

and we were comped a selection of tarts each on top.

I understand Gary provides a similar service for some of his more lucrative clients

But what's this I read? You actually ordered bottled water Gary? I thought that was a complete anathema?

And, eventhough I have a reverted to being a country bumpkin in the North, away from the bright lights of London; isn't £9 for a single Calva a bit naughty?

Bit more detail on the Caille and what was in the £15 ravioli please?

[Jon Tseng]

I've had the demi of quail from the tapas menu. Its one leg and one breast with a smear of mash on the side topped with large (but thin) slices of summer truffle.

Perfectly well cooked but little sign of the advertised foie gras stuffing (maybe it melted away)

My overall take on Atelier is lovely food, but you're never going to get remotely well fed unless you have far more money than sense

J

[Matthew Grant]

glass champagne 9
jambon 9
oeuf cocotte 9
ravioli 15
pied de cochon 11
calamar 10
agneau+ extra pommes (gratis) 14
caille 16
chocolate sensation 9
pinot noir crittenden  33 (£20 cheaper than my original choice out of stock santenay, well done to the somellier for that one!)
calvados 9
water 3.50
service 18.88
£169.88

i was stuffed, i thought i'd get through some cheese as well and i even turned down the offer of some crinkle cut chips 

It's easy to run up a bill for one like that - if you have five starters, two main courses, a £33 bottle fine, aperitif and digestif.

My price estimate is based on a (reasonably sized) meal for two, plus a bottle from the lower reaches of the list and a bottle of water. Take off Gary's champagne and calvados, drop the price of the wine and you are well within my £150 top out.

All of which means I think Matthew's six to ten plates each is completely excessive. And I don't think I coudl ever be accused of having a bird like appetitie.

Sorry Jay, I meant to say 6 - 10 small plates, not mains. Some of those small plates are pretty light, 6 plates of Langoustines (12 Langoustines in total) would be easy to manage and you would already have spent £120

[Gary Marshall]

and we were comped a selection of tarts each on top.

And, eventhough I have a reverted to being a country bumpkin in the North, away from the bright lights of London; isn't £9 for a single Calva a bit naughty?

which ever way you slice it, it's not a cheap restaurant, it suits the single diner very well due to the bar style seating and as i was by myself and in no particular rush i did indulge, the wine list is not as good as the paris branch where you can drink very nice wines by the glass so that was a small disappointment but the somellier pointing me towards a cheaper bottle of wine meant i could have another course!

the ravioli was actually quite disappointing, i was quite suprised to see it was £15 when i got the bill, to be honest i just dived in and ordered what i fancied and worried about the bill when it came, hence the calva, by the time the bill came i really wasn't bothered

[sunbeam]

And does he use the Potato Ricer aka the Giant Garlic Press? I just bought one and it's great, some chemistry happens when you beat potatoes that makes them gluey. The ricer removes this problem and is rather fun too!

[Matthew Grant]

Ricers are good, I pass the potato through mine twice sometimes for extra smooth results, not as good as pushing through a sieve though which is what I suspect Robuchon does.

[Jon Tseng]

By ricer I assume we mean big chunk thing with a lever you pull ("giant garlic press") rather than a vegetable mill where you turn the thing round and round (which I use - its good)

Reblochon (being le grand fromage) would almost certainly the a sieve/tamis. Theres chat about it in Tom Aikens new book. Someone posted details but I can't remember for the life of me which of the multiple atelier threads on multiple foodie internet chat sites it went on!

ta

J

Edited by Jon Tseng, 11 October 2006 - 05:14 AM.

[Matthew Grant]

Robuchon on Saturday night, excellent cocktails upstairs to start and then the counter for the main event.

The most disappointing dish was the Ravioli of langoustine in Savoy cabbage. Off the top of my head they were £15 for two small parcels, a French haute tapas, topped with chopped black truffle this could have been an excellent dish if the Langoustine had been up to scratch, unfortunately it exhibited that woolly texture that Langoustines get when they aren’t as fresh as they can or indeed should be.

Far more successful was an excellent Black truffle Ravioli (£25) exhibiting a good depth of flavour and perfectly al dente rice topped with shaved truffle.

A tiger Prawn cooked on the plancha was a far better example of shellfish, meaty and flavoursome it was almost worth its £15 price tag, that’s right, £15 for one tiger prawn cooked on the grill.

John Dory was served with Aubergine, leeks and vierge sauce, the fish itself nothing to right home about but the accompaniments were very good, 4 x 1cm squares of aubergine, and a bright sauce lit the dish up but nothing could disguise the dull fish.

Lamb chops with thyme, were exactly that, 3 of them. A touch of salt could have elevated them beyond your everyday lamb chops but obviously they rely on the pomme puree to do that, in this instance approximately a tablespoon of the stuff. Beef and Foie Gras burger with lightly caramelized bell peppers was excellent, the peppers slightly sweet and sour acting as a foil to the foie. Great crinkle cut chips as well.

Desserts were far more successful. A selection of tarts for dessert which were excellent, Caramel (which was probably too heavy for the delicate pastry enclosing it, a beautiful lemon tart, cinnamon tart was superb, apple and bitter chocolate tarts finished the selection. Another dessert of waffles came with excellent chocolate sauce, Chantilly cream and Vanilla ice cream.

I was left in two minds about this meal, I hate to gripe about price and aam loathe to complain about small portion sizes but here I can’t myself. It’s not that the food is bad (although it fails to hit too many highs), its just that it is so flipping expensive for what it is. Before we started I was planning on 5 small plates each, in the event the (excellent) waitress advised us that three was enough. It wasn’t but I wasn’t enthused enough by the food to order anymore, good job as well as the bill was around £250 (I should add that £50 of that was on cocktails) including a Barabera D’alba at £37 and those rip off 500ml bottle of water that they use. My other half commented afterwards that we probably would have felt a lot better about the meal if had cost £50 - £60 less and she is probably right. Unfortunately an average of £12 - £15 for haute tapas is taking the piss unless the ingredients and cooking step up another level.

Edited by Matthew Grant, 17 December 2007 - 02:40 AM.

[chrisp]

I was left in two minds about this meal, I hate to gripe about price and aam loathe to complain about small portion sizes but here I can’t myself. It’s not that the food is bad (although it fails to hit too many highs), its just that it is so flipping expensive for what it is. Before we started I was planning on 5 small plates each, in the event the (excellent) waitress advised us that three was enough. It wasn’t but I wasn’t enthused enough by the food to order anymore, good job as well as the bill was around £250 (I should add that £50 of that was on cocktails) including a Barabera D’alba at £37 and those rip off 500ml bottle of water that they use. My other half commented afterwards that we probably would have felt a lot better about the meal if had cost £50 - £60 less and she is probably right. Unfortunately an average of £12 - £15 for haute tapas is taking the piss unless the ingredients and cooking step up another level.

An excellent point Matthew. I have often had comments on the low scores I have given top-end restaurants on my blog, often because the huge price rarely justifies the often admittedly quite nice food. If you're paying over £100 a head for a meal I think you have the right to expect 2*/3* cooking on every level. The worst offenders are generally in Mayfair - Sketch being a prime example of somewhere ludicrously expensive and pretty blah in terms of the food served.

If you can get a delicious meal for £10 at Tayyabs, there's no excuse for anywhere charging above the odds for mediocrity.

Oh and by the way, always always just order tap water. The revolution starts here! :D