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Blackbird - chef Paul Kahan - Chicago


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#31 nsxtasy

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Posted 17 February 2007 - 08:58 AM

having a Monday night in Chicago was a blessing in disguise - most of the top tier restaurants are closed

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Actually, quite a few top-tier restaurants are open on Mondays, including: One Sixtyblue, NoMi, Seasons, Aigre Doux, Ambria, Bistro 110, Butter, Custom House, Fulton's on the River, Joe's, Kiki's Bistro, Le Lan, Marche, Meritage, MK, Mon Ami Gabi, Osteria di Tramonto, Shaw's, Sola, Sweets and Savories, Tru, Va Pensiero, Vermilion, Vie, and most of the steakhouses. (Can you tell where I started looking up names from a quick check on opentable.com? :wink: )

Granted, many others are closed, but Monday in Chicago is hardly a culinary wasteland.

#32 BryanZ

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 09:05 PM

Tonight was my first night of the summer in Chicago. My first significant meal was at Blackbird. I managed to secure a seat at the bar (but not at a table) calling only a couple hours before. Blackbird does not have a tasting menu, so I kind of created one of my own. I ordered four appetizers and a dessert and was quite satisfied.

As another poster noted, everything at Blackbird was very solid, quite tasty, and subtly creative. Like good contemporary American cuisine, just one level higher. I don't usually dine alone at the bar, I prefer tables, but I must say I enjoyed my experience given the energy of this restaurant. It is undeniably busy and quite loud. A true hive of activity in a rather small, minimalistic space.

I had:
-Amuse of trout belly and a really interesting barbeque consomme. I loved this.
-Crispy confit of swan creek farm suckling pig with cavollo nero, shaved chiogga beets, horseradish and banylus vinegar 13.
-Crispy veal sweetbreads with nichols farm baby leeks, fresh green almonds, puffed wild rice and remoulade 13.
-Braised octopus with fresh hummus, charred ramps, sesame brittle and chickpeas 14.
-Soft shell crab (not on the online menu) for $15.
-Milk chocolate cremeux with coconut-curry ice cream, cashews and lime 10.

My favorite dish was definitely the sweetbreads, totally delicious with the puffed wild rice adding great texture. I thought the octopus was a bit weak because the terrine portion (literally a slice of compressed octopus meat that looked cool in a vaguely gruesome sense--I mean this as a compliment) lacked seasoning. It was interesting texturally but needed some salt or acid to perk up the flavor. The confit tentacles were much better. The pork dish was very nice, if perhaps slightly thrown out of balance by the banylus vinegar. I liked it, but it was probably too assertive objectively speaking.

I also really enjoyed talking to one of my bartender/waiters, whose name I believe was Brandon. Cool dude and full of information for a newcomer to the Chicago food scene like me. If only I could remember all the places he told me about; I'll try to get to them all eventually. Also sat next to a nice couple restaurateurs from Ohio in town for the NRA show. They seemed to be enjoying themselves.

Blackbird isn't the type of restaurant I usually go to, it's a bit loud and hectic for my tastes. Given that, I was quite pleased with this first meal. I spent a bit more than I would've liked ($103 after tax, tip, and a meh glass of Sanceree), but I'd go back to try more of the menu. I'm also interested in Avec, as its crowds were literally spilling out onto the sidewalk with everyone drinking and eating.

ETA: I just realized why Chef Sheerin looks so familiar. Wasn't he the sous-chef at wd~50? I think so.

Edited by BryanZ, 21 May 2007 - 09:41 PM.


#33 jesteinf

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 09:25 PM

Tonight was my first night of the summer in Chicago. 

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Are you working here this summer?
-Josh

Server (a friend of mine): Would you like some white truffle shaved over your main course?
Woman at table : Oh, no thank you. I'm allergic to shellfish.

#34 BryanZ

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 09:37 PM

I am. But may be traveling four days a week, leaving me actually in Chicago on like only Thurs, Fri, Sat nights, making it difficult for resos. Then again, BB worked out for me so I'm planning on some good meals at some perhaps less-than-good times.

#35 trader0227

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Posted 29 May 2007 - 05:26 PM

Walking down Randolph on a Friday night in April was ridiculously cold, but the warmth from the wood siding looked inviting.. Entering Avec proved to be more difficult than one would assume as we failed to figure out how the door worked. The second time we tried to enter we hit the jackpot.

Not surprisingly showing up at 830 on a Friday night required an hour wait. Off to Blackbird it was for a drink at the bar. The bartender made a nice recommendation of bourbon, and we watched the dishes come out of the Blackbird kitchen. It was tempting to stay there, but that will have to come at a later date.

Less than 45 minutes later we walked back over to Avec and somehow managed to get the seat right in front of the sauté station at the bar. One can assume that everyone would not enjoy a seat here, but this is what I was hoping for. After being seated we discussed the menu with Chef David. My date and I had some ideas on what we would like to try and we also asked the chef to cook us his favorites on the menu.

We had.
roasted beet bruschetta with a hazelnut pesto, goat cheese and fresh herbs
roasted red pepper and tomato braised haddock with caperberries, bacon and spicy mustard greens
chorizo-stuffed madjool dates with smoked bacon and piquillo pepper-tomato sauce
marinated hangar steak with asparagus, grilled bread, tarragon and salsa verde rustic
whipped brandade
deluxe" focaccia with taleggio cheese, truffle oil and fresh herbs

While ordering I was obviously too interested with the entire menu and not thinking ahead. Putting down the two richest menu items, at the same time, is not the smartest thing to do, but we made a valiant effort. I might add that they were both very good. My only complaint was that only two crostini were served with the brandade, however that was easily remedied by the chef.

The only dish that I did not enjoy was the hangar steak. It was cooked perfectly, but I found it to have no flavor. My favorite dish of the night was the dates. I have had dates wrapped in bacon before but never stuffed with chorizo. You are served 4 per order, and I could have eaten 8 alone. I also greatly enjoyed the braised haddock. I thought all the accompaniments worked well with the haddock. The bruschetta was fine. Roasted beets were a nice topping, but to me, the dish was not memorable.
We ended the meal with tangerine sorbet. I make my own sorbets and ice creams and thought this was comparable to my tangerine sorbet. Whether that is a good thing I do not know.

Overall this was one of the most enjoyable meals I have had in the last year… For the value and the food. I plan on going back very soon to sample the other half of the menu and some more of those dates.

#36 Sweet Willie

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Posted 07 June 2007 - 06:25 PM

Blackbird, the restaurant that throws too many items into the pot, complex does not always make better IMO and last night confirmed my personal belief that Blackbird is too complex for their own good. I had not been for quite a few years. Went last night with my parents as my Mom had wanted to go to Blackbird for awhile. Dined on the following.

crispy confit of swan creek farm suckling pig with cavollo nero, shaved chiogga beets, horseradish and banylus vinegar, so good we ordered two, but could have done without the cavollo nero, it did not add but subracted.

braised octopus with fresh hummus, charred ramps, sesame brittle and chickpeas, VERY tender and flavorful octopus but the rest, ehh.

sauteed maryland soft shell crab with smoked onions, roasted beets, horseradish cream and juniper, parents both had this dish and did not share so I'm assuming good.

sauteed wild king salmon with local asparagus, candied black olives, saffron caviar and califlower almond puree. overcooked salmon, seemed like something off of a steam table.

roasted half grimaud farms muscovy duck breast and confit with fresh hearts of palm, mustard greens, pepperoncini and amaro. excellent

slow roasted sunset farm baby lamb with fried moels, favas, herbed ricotta, spring radishes and wild flower honey. excellent but lamb was VERY rare when MR was requested.

braised pork belly and knackwurst 'choucroute' with fingerlings, crunchy sauerkraut and celery root puree. Knackwurst seemed store bought, nothing special. Pork belly was delicious.

buckwheat 'crepaze' with rhubarb consomme, candied celery and sicilian pistachio ice cream. Excellent crepaze with carmelized sugar coating the individual layers of the crepaze, skip the candied celery.

meyer lemon mousse with white chocolate, anise and winter citrus - nothing special, very so-so.

I had the cheese course, only standout on its own was the blue persille de malzieu, outstanding.
capriole farms 'julianna' - goat's milk, greenville, indiana - with pickled grapes
colorouge- cow's milk, fort collins, colorado- with plum mostarda
big bang -raw cow's milk, westfield vermont - with candied kumquats
hopeful tomme-raw cow's and goat's milk, thomasville, georgia -with smoked almonds
persille de malzieu- sheep's milk, france- with caramelized onions

Service was good until the dessert course, then forgotten coffee, forgotten liquors, etc etc. Very much solidified my not returning.

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"I did absolutely nothing and it was everything I thought it could be"

#37 Alchemist

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Posted 25 September 2007 - 04:26 PM

Has anybody had the cocktails at Blackbird? Thoughts...



A DUSTY SHAKER LEADS TO A THIRSTY LIFE

#38 MikeHartnett

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Posted 26 September 2007 - 06:59 AM

I think Blackbird is absolutely fantastic. I strongly disagree that there are too many components to the dishes, and my family was treated excellently there, even though it was obvious that my mother and sister are not foodies.

#39 conor610

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Posted 28 September 2007 - 09:18 AM

I'm going for the first time tomorrow. Apart from the pork belly, which I hear is a can't-miss, what should I get?
"Degenerates. Degenerates. They'll all turn into monkeys." --Zizek on vegetarians

#40 molto e

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Posted 29 September 2007 - 12:14 AM

I'm going for the first time tomorrow.  Apart from the pork belly, which I hear is a can't-miss, what should I get?

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sturgeon...sweetbreads...endive salad
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#41 MikeHartnett

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Posted 29 September 2007 - 07:42 AM

There's also a dessert- chocolate polenta, which comes with sweet corn ice cream and caramel corn- which is unbelievable, and an appetizer (may have been a special, unfortunately) of soft shell crab with a horseradish foam. Both very good. But I went with 3 others, and everybody loved everything.

#42 david coonce

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Posted 29 September 2007 - 09:25 PM

Never had a bad meal there, or even a bad dish. Chef Kahan is amazing, and I've never received anything remotely close to "steam table" quality fish. The service is impeccable - I wish they'd lose those goofy oversized suit coats and bad ties - but that's a minor quibble. Considering the prices, Blackbird is the best restaurant in Chicago - by far.
"A culture's appetite always springs from its poor" - John Thorne

#43 nsxtasy

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 09:36 AM

Considering the prices, Blackbird is the best restaurant in Chicago - by far.

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I wouldn't go quite as far as that statement, but I can sympathize with it.

To me, a really great restaurant is one where I can go with a friend, order two appetizers, two soups, two entrees, and two desserts, and all eight dishes will be superb, where every bite screams "WOW! THIS IS DELICIOUS!!!"

You expect and experience this from the super-expensive splurge places, like Avenues, Everest, etc. So I consider those places almost in another category, and I'll set them aside for a different discussion, leaving this one to Blackbird and similar restaurants in the "casual fine dining" genre.

There are many, many casual fine dining restaurants in the Chicago area where you can get excellent food. But the ones that meet this qualification of "greatness" are not all that many, in my experience. Blackbird is one of those few. To it, I would add one sixtyblue and Aigre Doux in the city, Oceanique in Evanston, Michael in Winnetka, and Tallgrass in Lockport. All six of which are in roughly the same price category (typically around $100 per person including 3-4 courses, tax/tip, and alcohol/wine of moderate quality/quantity). I would hesitate to have to choose ANY one of those as "best" over the others, because they are all so very, very good. (Although I have eaten at four of these six within the past twelve months, and Tallgrass was the best of those four great dinners.)

Edited by nsxtasy, 30 September 2007 - 09:38 AM.


#44 david coonce

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 11:01 AM

Yeah, Iguess I should have qualified that with "In my experience..." because I certainly haven't eaten at every place in Chicago around Blackbird's price range.
"A culture's appetite always springs from its poor" - John Thorne

#45 ronnie_suburban

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 11:35 AM

Yeah, Iguess I should have qualified that with "In my experience..." because I certainly haven't eaten at every place in Chicago around Blackbird's price range.

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Whatever . . . when it comes down to opinions, there's no wrong or right. It's certainly reasonable to say that Blackbird is arguably the best restaurant in Chicago, especially at its price point. If someone else likes something else better, it doesn't make them right (or wrong), either. The "in my experience" part is implied.

=R=

Edited by ronnie_suburban, 30 September 2007 - 11:35 AM.

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#46 conor610

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Posted 30 September 2007 - 01:25 PM

Well, between my girlfriend and me, we had the scallops, sweetbreads, arctic char, pork belly, milk chocolate cremaux, and beignet with fig. All were good; all apart from the char were excellent; the pork belly was the best dish I've ever had. The service was impeccable, including a brilliant wine recommendation (2003 Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris) from our waiter, Ivar, that went perfectly with all four savory dishes. The best meal of my life, so far.

Also, Wylie Dufresne was there, having dinner at the bar in sneakers and a t-shirt. Gotta love random sightings like that.
"Degenerates. Degenerates. They'll all turn into monkeys." --Zizek on vegetarians

#47 Fat Guy

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Posted 11 October 2007 - 04:09 PM

I had an excellent lunch at Blackbird yesterday. It was upstairs in the event room, a lunch for 30 people, so there were limited choices, but the choices were delicious. Particularly impressive was the vegetarian option, "crispy buckwheat crepes with hazelnut 'cassoulet', fresh ricotta, pickled baby carrots and grilled abalone mushrooms," which appears on the normal lunch menu as well. I also tried a beautiful piece of halibut (I'm working on getting the recipe for the sauce), and a faultless green salad. I can see why Blackbird has such a following: rarely do I encounter a restaurant that treats ingredients with such respect yet is also able to inject substantial creativity into the dishes.
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#48 gaf

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Posted 31 December 2007 - 10:22 PM

So Tomorrow --- Blackbird

I enjoyed a splendid lunch at Blackbird. A wonderful way to end a year of eating. The food at Blackbird really flies. At its best Chef Kahan's cuisine is as creative and accomplished as any chef in town, perhaps less elaborated but with a startling and compelling mixture of tastes and textures.

I began with baby octopus confit with braised chestnuts, empire apples, pea tendrils and sassafras caramel. This construction was as fascinating and wildly textured as any appetizer I have had for awhile. Chewy, crackly, smooth and crunchy. Sweet and just a bit sour. A truly magnificent dish.

As an entree I selected slow roasted duck with fried byrd mill grits, citrus brussel sprouts and puffed wild rice. I was blown away by the finely threaded brussel sprouts - the emotional heart of the dish. The duck, grits and rice, well-cooked, played a supporting role.

Dessert was a beautifully composed mission fig beignet with cara cara oranges, butterscotch and bacon ice cream. I have been rather critical of desserts as late, but not this. Like the appetizer, this was one of the most sensational and brilliant desserts of the year. The bacon ice cream seemed simultaneously surprising and totally natural. What a lovely way to end the year.

Why then is Blackbird not often listed in the company with other four star restaurants, where, by virtue of the food it belongs? When Blackbird opened a decade ago it was sleek and chic. But time has taken a toll on the restaurant. The restaurant no longer seems as stylish as it had once been. The plates don't need to be refreshed, but the tables might be. The room is so 1999! The food is so tomorrow!

Blackbird
619 Randolph Street (West Loop)
Chicago
312-715-0708
http://www.blackbirdrestaurant.com/

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#49 san

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Posted 01 January 2008 - 01:34 PM

The room is so 1999! The food is so tomorrow!


Agreed. I would throw the service into the 90's category as well. Each time I've dined there, I've felt that I wasn't really 'cool' enough to be there and that I might be kicked out at any time for not looking hip enough. The 'better than you' vibe I've gotten each time I've been there has always been a huge turn-off for me. Not quite huge enough to ruin the incredible food, though.

Sandy Levine
The Oakland Art Novelty Company

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#50 MattJohnson

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Posted 02 January 2008 - 11:15 AM

While I may have gotten the better than you vibe from other diners, I definitely didn't get it from the servers. Just another perspective.

Edited by MattJohnson, 02 January 2008 - 11:15 AM.


#51 Chris Hennes

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Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:31 AM

This topic has been dormant for a while, but I had a good meal at Blackbird the other evening, so I can attest that they are still worth visiting. One comment I have in particular, is that in a few other topics the noise level has been mentioned as a problem: to be honest, my wife and I had a bigger problem with the place when it was quiet (6:30pm reservation): the tables are fairly close together (sort of bistro-style) and when it's quiet you can hear the people next to you quite clearly. However, by 7pm every table was full, and as the noise level rose so did the level of privacy, even seated very close to other tables. I suspect it's not a great place to dine with a party of more than two, but for the two of us the noise was not a problem at all, and in fact afforded more of a feeling of privacy than I typically feel in a large, well-spaced but hushed dining room.

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