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Copenhagen


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#1 reggie_212

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Posted 03 September 2002 - 11:57 AM

Would anyone have any good reccomendations for eating alone in Copenhagen? I'm spending a few days there on business and have no idea what to expect except that I will be on my own.

#2 anil

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Posted 05 October 2002 - 07:15 AM

Are you back ? Would care to update us on it ?
anil

#3 Schneier

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Posted 20 January 2004 - 11:34 PM

This is the only thread on Copenhagen in eGullet?

Come on, people.

I'm in Copenhagen right now. Last night I had an excellent meal at Restaurant Els. I'lll post about it in a few days.

I have no idea yet where I am going to eat tonight.

Bruce

#4 fiskhus

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Posted 21 January 2004 - 09:08 AM

I absolutely love Restaurant Els. I have also enjoyed: Apollo Brewery, Bof & Ost, Tolbud Bodega and Restaurant Parnas.

I'd be happy to conduct an eating tour of Copenhagen - Any travel agents to set it up?

Thanks!

#5 Schneier

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Posted 27 January 2004 - 07:31 AM

I can't find my notes about my Restaurant Els meal, but I it was delicious. Good service, prety restaurant--all around good place to eat.

Bruce

#6 Schneier

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Posted 09 February 2004 - 04:09 AM

I can't find my notes about my Restaurant Els meal, but I it was delicious. Good service, prety restaurant--all around good place to eat.

Found them.

Bruce

*******
Okay, so this isn?t a review. I?ve been there once for dinner, alone, and had the tasting menu. But I enjoyed it, and I would go back.

My meal:

"Terrine of scallops and salted saddle of rabbit with variation of tomatoes." It was delicious slide of terrine, beautifully presented on the plate. (Actually, everything that came out of the kitchen was beautifully presented.) It was served with a tomato chutney.

"Ravioli with lobster and Belle de Boskoop with rilette of shank from veal and foamy soup of white beans." Definitely a tasty soup.

"Baked hake and roasted sweetbread with glazed beetroot, parsley and fomay sauce of champagne." This was really two things: the hake with parsley puree, and the sweetbreads with beetroot. Both were tasty dishes, although I?m not sure why they were served together. They didn?t interact with each other on the plate, and they didn?t interact with each other in the mouth. They looked pretty, though.

"Guinea fowl as ballontine served with press of leg and foie-gras pommes fondant and sauce of vanilla." This came as four little dishes on a single plate. There wasthe Guinea fowl ballontine. There was the Guinea fowl leg. There was the foie-gras. And there was the sliced apples with vanilla sauce. Again, everything was tasty. Again, the four items didn?t hold together as a single course very well. Again, the presentation was beautiful: four geometric stacks on a single plate.

"Forme d'Ambert and caramelized walnut bread with sorbet of figs." An okay cheese course. Nothing special.

"Selection of small coffee desserts." I don?t go to Copenhagen for the sweets.

Total for the menu: 545 kroner = about $100.

Els is one of the "good? restaurants in Copenhagen. It?s a pretty room (albeit with a large stuffed animal head on one wall). The service is professional and efficient; very European. The food is interesting. It?s not traditional Danish food by and stretch of the imagination, but it does use local ingredients.

Sadly, the restaurant was not full. I was there on a weekday night in winter, and there were very few tables active. Even worse, everyone except me was gone by 8:00. Pre-theatre rush, I was told. I hope the restaurant fills up after dinner. Or at least that the restaurant fills in summer, when it doesn?t get dark at 3;30 in the afternoon.

NB: winter in Copenhagen is dreary. It's cold. It's cloudy. It gets dark at 3:00. Visit in the summer if you can.

Bruce

#7 Poots

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Posted 12 February 2004 - 09:10 AM

Well, funny this thread came up as i'm moving to Copenhagen for 2 years in a week. I've been there twice before and had very good meals at Le Sommelier and at Spiseloppen(spelling?). Maybe i'll start doing some in depth write-ups when i get there.
Yield to Temptation, It may never come your way again.
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#8 magnolia

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Posted 23 March 2004 - 08:41 AM

Anyone been to Cophenhagen more recently? Would love some recs for a friend...especially for Danish food. Thanks!!

#9 cxt

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Posted 28 April 2004 - 08:33 PM

Anyone been to Cophenhagen more recently? Would love some recs for a friend...especially for Danish food. Thanks!!


I go to Copenhagen for a few months every year. I don't go out too much, but here are some ideas:

Brasserie Degas on Jernbanegade
Spiseloppen (mentioned above although I don't know how the recent Christiania crackdown has affected it!)
Cafe Viggo on Vœrnedamsvej is nice for eating alone. They are laid-back and wonderfully friendly, it's on an interesting street and you can sit outdoors.
Last year RW Apple in the New York Times recommended Kommandanten, Le Sommelier and Godt (all fairly expensive).

None of these are danish food, though! The Times article also recommended Ida Davidsen's and Cafe Victor for danish food. I haven't been to either, so I don't know if they are a bit "touristic" as my danish boyfriend would say. See www.aok.dk for addresses and opening times.

Velbekomme!

#10 wlg

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Posted 05 May 2004 - 03:01 PM

I haven't been to Copenhagen for quite a few years, but as a fish geek, I was fooled by a herring buffet lunch served at a restaurant (whose name escapes me) on a street just north of Nyhavn (near Els). I was dying to try this place, where they served 15 different kinds of herring. Fresh from a meeting reviewing the status of herring stocks in the Northeast Atlantic, I figured it might be a comparative tasting of, say, Dogger Banks herring vs. Baltic Sea herring vs. Downs herring etc. etc. It turned out to be herring in 15 different preparations, natch. Some of them were better than others, but the surprising part was the recommended form of aquavit as an accompaniment - tough on its own, but excellent when paired with herring.

#11 kjbecker

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Posted 31 May 2004 - 10:11 PM

I was living and working in Copenhagen last winter.....a long cold winter....but there are some nice restaurants doing some interesting food. If your there after the middle of April, when Tivoli opens you should definately check out Restaurant the Paul. Kong Hans and Era Ora are also really nice (french and Italian respectively). I have heard that for Danish inspired cusine Ensemble and Kroggs fisk restaurant are the places to go although I havent eaten there personally. A word of warning......everthything is expensive in Copenhagen......many times you get an excellent meal but it can seem overpriced at least in my opinion. :shock:

#12 Hest88

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Posted 01 June 2004 - 11:03 AM

We're hoping to make our first trip to Copenhagen next year. I'd love to hear everyone's food (and non-food) suggestions.

#13 Poots

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Posted 09 June 2004 - 01:01 PM

There are plenty of good places to eat in Copenhagen. Copenhagen is Always expensive, but even moreso now with the dollar so weak so don't expect any dining bargains. Most places charge $15 and up just for a cheeseburger(not that you're asking for rec's on burger joints). One of my favorites is Le Sommelier a french restaurant with an extensive wine list. It can be seen here: http://www.lesommelier.dk/
There are a few Michelin starred restaurants here but i have not had the pleasure of dining at any of them....yet ;). They include Kommandanten, the only restaurant in Denmark with 2 michelin stars, http://www.kommandan...infoUK/info.asp
Pierre Andre, with one star, a small french restaurant at http://www3.aok.dk/E...06/44/20/3.html
There are numerous Cafes that serve wonderful food as well. If you're going to be here during the summer than there's nothing better than eating outdoors at one of the restaurants in Nyhavn(2 blocks of restaurants and bars alongside a canal). People go there to sun worship, drink some wine or beer, and people watch. There's also some nice restaurants in Nyhavn including Restaurant Els that Schneier described above.
Tivoli, the famous amusement park is a must see, especially if you have children and there are some good restaurants within Tivoli as well, including the one starred The Paul.
and according to This site: http://www.woco.dk/composite-3521.htm
'The only Michelin-starred Italian restaurant in Northern Europe is also based in Copenhagen. Era Ora's multi-course feasts, and meticulous attention to detail (they fly in ingredients fresh from Umbria weekly) are legendary on the Copenhagen culinary scene.'
Yield to Temptation, It may never come your way again.
 --Lazarus Long

#14 cxt

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Posted 27 June 2004 - 09:48 AM

We're hoping to make our first trip to Copenhagen next year. I'd love to hear everyone's food (and non-food) suggestions.

I think I am better at the non-food suggestions in Copenhagen. If you love modern art and marzipan, this is your city!

-Take the train up the coast to Humlebaek and walk 5 minutes to the Louisiana Museum (just follow everyone else). Pick a day when the weather is (relatively) nice and take a picnic lunch. The ISO on Vesterbrogade is a block or so west of the main train station and has a good selection of breads, cheeses, wines, etc.

- Another museum and picnic option is taking the train to Ishoej and the Arken Museum, followed by a picnic right on the beach, bathing suits more or less optional.

- If you like contemporary art and are out on Nyhavn, go over to the shady side of the canal and stop in at Charlottenborg, the art school's exhibition space.

- If you are not afraid of heights, climb the outdoor spiral staircase on the steeple of Vor Frelsers Kirke. Celebrate your ascent by going to nearby Christiania afterwards. I haven't been there since it was supposedly cleaned up by the police, but if Spiseloppen is still open, have lunch or dinner there.

- The Canal tours sound touristy but they are fun. Be sure to duck your head at the bridges!

- Poots and KJBecker are right -- Copenhagen is expensive. But there are lots and lots of cafes where you can sit for as long as you like and have a beer or a coffee. They are always relaxed and friendly. Try Den Tatovarede Enke, The Tattooed Widow, in Baron Boltens Gaard, if you like beer. Try the Carlsberg Brewery tour in Valby, a short bus trip west on the #6, if you like free beer. You can't go wrong with anything from the Reinh van Hauen bakeries.

Have fun! Copenhagen is not as flashily beautiful as Paris or as flagrantly hip as London but it is friendly and comfortable and cozy.

#15 Winot

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Posted 30 June 2004 - 05:23 AM

Has anyone tried Tyvenkokkenhanskoneoghendeselsker ('The Thief, the Cook, His Wife and Her Lover')?

We're are going for a short break at the end of July and would like one stand out meal.

However would prefer to avoid French cuisine as we go to France reasonably often.

Thanks,

Winot

#16 Hest88

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Posted 30 June 2004 - 09:09 AM

Thanks cxt! I'm really looking forward to it! I love museums and the idea of exploring outside the city. Question for you, because I like getting a sense of distance and I'm very bad with maps: how long would it take, at a normal pace and without lingering anywhere, to walk from Tivoli to Nyhavn? As I'm investigating hotels (though I'm starting to lean toward the idea of renting an apt) I've been trying to figure out how far is too far. I'm a big walker and I like going out on foot and just exploring.

I'm also interested in trying "The Paul" restaurant, but I can't believe I have to wait a year!

#17 Boris_A

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Posted 30 June 2004 - 09:54 AM

Hotels: the Admiral is nice with rooms on the port side. $250/night for a double.
Central apartments for rent are difiuclt to find. I checked web-offerings and couldn't find any. If you learn anything, let me know.
Another museum suggestion is the Danish Museum of Decorative Art for design and furniture and interesting special exhibitions.

When we were there, we didn't spend much for food, focus was on classic design furniture. Even simple restaurants and pizzerias were quite expensive. 0,5 l beer at $7, for instance, but we found sometimes huge differences.

I'd go back to Copenhagen anytime. Lovely, very friendly people.
Make it as simple as possible, but not simpler.

#18 Poots

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Posted 01 July 2004 - 06:07 AM

Hest88, the walk from Tivoli to Nyhavn is very easy. Tivoli is at one end of Stroget and Nyhavn is basically at the other end. Stroget if you didn't know is called the Walking street. Basically a pedestrian street filled will all kinds of shops(food, fashion, etc.). When you get to the opposite end from Tivoli(around 10 mins) you're at Kongens Nytorv(Kings Square). Across the square(2 mins) is Nyhavn. That's if you don't pause in your walk...and there are Plenty of places you Should pause. To tell you the truth, almost nothing in Copenhagen(if you're a walker) is too far. There are also Tourists bike that you can borrow(you put in a 20 kroner($3.50) coin and the bike is released, and when you return it you get the coin back). Copenhagen is a Very friendly walking city.
Yield to Temptation, It may never come your way again.
 --Lazarus Long

#19 cxt

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Posted 20 July 2004 - 05:34 PM

Thanks cxt! I'm really looking forward to it! I love museums and the idea of exploring outside the city. Question for you, because I like getting a sense of distance and I'm very bad with maps: how long would it take, at a normal pace and without lingering anywhere, to walk from Tivoli to Nyhavn? As I'm investigating hotels (though I'm starting to lean toward the idea of renting an apt) I've been trying to figure out how far is too far. I'm a big walker and I like going out on foot and just exploring.

Oh, I'm sorry it took me so long to see this! Thanks to Poots for answering the walking/timing question. I agree that nearly everything from Ameliensborg to Valby and Amager to Langlinie are walking distance. It might take up to an hour from one end to the other but there will always be something interesting to see.

I highly recommend renting a bike or buying and selling back, if you will be there for a month or more. Everything is accessible on a bike and you can also take them on the trains.

I haven't patronized them very much, but I hear that Emmery's, a little deli/coffee/bakery/wine shop with a few locations in Copenhagen, has the best of everything.

In the future, I'll try to do a better job of keeping up with this, our one little Copenhagen thread!

#20 Hest88

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Posted 21 July 2004 - 08:59 AM

Thanks Poots and Cxt. I didn't realize it was *that* short of a distance. A 10-12 minute walk is nothing! I won't agonize so much about hotel proximity then.

#21 Poots

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Posted 23 July 2004 - 01:55 AM

In the future, I'll try to do a better job of keeping up with this, our one little Copenhagen threadn

cxt maybe it's such a little thread because of the title. It's kind of.....lonely :cool:
I enjoyed a nice meal at Le Sommelier last week. Started with a glass of Salmon-Billecarte Brut Reserve. Sauteed Halibut to start with a glass of riesling. Graduated to Guinea Fowl with a shared bottle of Barbera D'alba and finished with some fresh fruit and ice cream(well it was part of Le Menu, i actually gave it to my dining partner). Another fine meal here. It really is my 'goto' restaurant in the Cope. I'm sure there are better(and more expensive) but i've never happened upon a poor meal at Le Sommelier(lesommelier.dk). Sorry for the non-descriptions but i don't take notes and i was just having a good time with food and wine without delving too deep.
I also had a small, quite enjoyable meal at Alsace a few weeks ago. A big ole bowl of bouillabasse with a half bottle of Trimbach Pinot Gris Reserve and a fabulous white chocolate mousse with almond wafers and fresh rasberries with a glass of Trockenbeerenauslese by J.J.S. Burgenland. Menu can be seen at Alsace.dk. I go here usually once a month just for the bouillabasse. And i don't usually eat dessert as i'm truly a savory over sweet kind of guy, but i Love white chocolate and this dessert is very good.
Brian

Edited by Poots, 23 July 2004 - 01:57 AM.

Yield to Temptation, It may never come your way again.
 --Lazarus Long

#22 Ted Task

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Posted 06 September 2004 - 10:47 AM

Without reading every thread on the subject, let me report on a few good places in Copenhagen, having just returned.
On a very old thread there was a mention of a herring restaurant that writer could not properly identify, but he gave general location. As I love that kind of challange, I'm pleased to report the GOOD herring rest. is in NYHAVEN and is named NYHAVS FAERGEKRO at Nyhavns 5 1051 Kobenhaven , it sits on the canal edge about a half block from the famous ELS. We had at least ten versions of herring



while sitting outside in the sun/light breeze sipping a Carlsburg. I only wish there was an outpost of this restaurant here in the states, so I could make at least a quarterly visit. 'twould be nice for others to see how great a simple little fish can be. Doesn't matter, dill sauce, curry, mustard,cream, fried, smoked they were all wonderful.
MUCH more sophisticated food at:
FROKEN NIELSEN,Gammel Kongevej 27 (the theatre ) where we had an excellent Boulabaise , lovely filet of Baltic salmon, but the end of the meal was STUNNING,
a slice of organic Danish blue cheese with a comfit of pickled onions in a plum sauce. You gotta taste (and see the colors on the plate) to understand. Oh, my.

GRABRODERTORV 21 (this was suggested by very old dining companions and they were right, almost next door is another that they had suggested PEDER OXE which we did NOT get to but on basis of this one,go.
We dined upon an old favorite (not often done well) of calves liver with onion and bacon and the Mrs decided that the roast chicken was delectible. Go here!

For those of you who cannot go very long with out some spice in your lives, we are the same, and found NAM THIP at Viktoriagade 3, very good , very cheap Thai.

We also ate at HERCEGOVINA in Tivoli, a buffet with multiple choices, TASTE first then decide.

Same advice for ANKARA, Turkish buffet, again taste first then decide.

For those who will be in Copenhagen for any length of time I found a very well stocked wine shop, it's in Nyhavn. BJORN LINDELL, NYHAVNS VINHANDEL/VIN SELECT, Nyhavn 44. The grocery stores all had lots of selection, we took on a cruise some So. Africans for about $5 (US) a bottle , paid the $10. (US) corkage and were well satisfied (the wines were, for the most part, better than the food).
Ted Task

Edited by Ted Task, 06 September 2004 - 10:52 AM.


#23 Hest88

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Posted 07 September 2004 - 10:28 AM

Cool! Thanks Ted!

#24 cxt

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Posted 17 September 2004 - 08:29 PM

This doesn't really fit in this topic, but it IS a Copenhagen question...

I'm going to be in Copenhagen all winter and I'd like to make a traditional Thanksgiving dinner. In my family, this absolutely requires certain dishes, and these absolutely require the following:

canned pumpkin
canned cream of mushroom soup
fresh cranberries
Ritz crackers

(They don't all go in the same dish). Can these be found in regular grocery stores in Denmark? Føtex, Gobi, Netto, osv? I know I could probably get them from the American store downtown, but it would be cheaper to bring them with me.

And what about the obvious, a 15-pound whole turkey?!

Thanks!
Chris

Edited by cxt, 17 September 2004 - 08:47 PM.


#25 Poots

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Posted 18 September 2004 - 10:59 AM

Chris, i wouldn't hold much hope of getting most of the ingredients here(other than in the american store). When i moved here a friend of mine asked me to bring a case of cream of mushroom soup with me for her(i did). I'm planning a thanksgiving dinner here as well with some friends. For the turkey you have to order it in advance. I'm not sure where yet, but i'll find out soon. A friend of mine did it last year and should have the info. I'll post it when i get it. Luckily with my company i usually know people making the flight to and from the states at least once every other month so i often make some calls and try to get them to bring me things i miss from home. I don't hold much prasie for the supermarkets here especially ghetto netto :raz: and i hope you have a good reason to be here during the winter. It's going to be my first and i've heard the bad stories of months of never seeing the sun...etc. I hope they were just stories :wink:
--Brian

Edited by Poots, 18 September 2004 - 11:01 AM.

Yield to Temptation, It may never come your way again.
 --Lazarus Long

#26 cxt

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Posted 18 September 2004 - 07:12 PM

Thanks Poots/Brian! Do you want me to bring you anything? I mean, I've given up all hope of limiting myself to the airline allotment of two suitcases, what with the bulky winter sweaters, boots and now, apparently, an entire portable Thanksgiving dinner. (I completely agree about Netto. I start crying just walking into that place).

I have a good reason to be there -- working for Carlsberg, visiting my boyfriend, but like you, I'm wicked scared of the winter. It will be my first as well, although I was there once for a short time in January and was kind of alarmed to see a sunset at 2:00 p.m. Then I was told I was lucky to see a sunset at all, usually it is more like the sky going from gray to dark gray to black. Oh boy.

#27 Poots

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Posted 19 September 2004 - 05:33 AM

Chris thanks for the offer but you don't need to bring me anything. I've tried to go native unlike my friends who have closets filled with memories of home(read: mac & cheese, canned soups and the like) :wink: I feel bad too because Netto's so bad.....and it's owned by my company, Maersk. I shop mostly at Irma, i think it's the best i've been to here. Super Brugsen isn't completely bad either. The only Netto i go to is by Kongens Have(King's Garden) because it's a Daogn(spelling) Netto which means it's open till around 10 or 11 at night, which isn't so abnormal back in the states but here it's extremely out of the ordinary. I don't know if it's SAS or just my luck, but every time i fly home or back here i have a 'Heavy' sticker on my suitcase and although they Do say something to me they never bother me about paying more or taking anything out.

I noticed that 'wicked' in your post....are you from Mass :wink: i went to college up there and being from Jersey i wasnt used to all the wickeds being thrown around in daily conversation. haha
--Brian
Yield to Temptation, It may never come your way again.
 --Lazarus Long

#28 cxt

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Posted 19 September 2004 - 04:03 PM

Okay, Brian, but let me know if you need any canned cream of mushroom soup! Thanks for the tip on the "midnight Netto" although I apologize for insulting a Maersk subsidiary. Have you tried the ISO on Vesterbrogade, just a little west of the main train station? I think it's nicer than the Irma's and Super Brugsens that we have out on the west side.

Be sure to post when you find out about the turkey. I'm apprehensive about this after a story from Laurie and Mamster (site manager for the Pacific NW forum) about an american family in France, many years ago, who tried to find a whole turkey for Thanksgiving, and ended up with...a whole swan.

And, although I spent several years in upstate NY and PA, I think that "wicked" snuck into my last post because I randomly heard it in three different conversations here in Seattle in the last week. Maybe it's been imported, along with Rolling Rock beer?

#29 cxt

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 06:22 AM

Okay, any Københavners interested in in making a Thanksgiving dinner....

Slagter Lund is where I'll be ordering whole turkeys. 75 DKK per kg or 105 DKK per kg stuffed. They say an unstuffed 4-5 kg turkey will feed 5-6 people or a stuffed one is enough for 10 people.

Fresh cranberries are everywhere (thanks to the enterprising marketers at Ocean Spray, I guess) but no Campbells cream of mushroom soup. Weirdly, I've found Campbells lobster, goulash and tandoori chicken. Why don't we get these in the states?!

Unrelated to Thanksgiving, I had a nice meal at Hansens Køkken in Frederiksberg, just to add to our list of good Copenhagen restaurants.

Happy Mortens Aften everyone!

Chris

#30 annambe

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Posted 15 October 2005 - 09:40 AM

If anyone knows the location of the american store in København I'd love the address. I'll be visiting København in November and I always try to stock up on the things I miss from the US and can't find in Oslo whenever I travel.

Any restaurant recommendations are also welcome. Does anyone know of a good Korean restaurant in København? (Another thing that doesn't exist in Oslo.)

Anna