684 replies to this topic

[docsconz]

What is "Shima Saba"?

[mrbigjas]

What is "Shima Saba"?

shime saba = sushi grade pickled mackerel.

[docsconz]

What is "Shima Saba"?

shime saba = sushi grade pickled mackerel.

Thank you. I assume that was mixed with rice and ? and lay underneath the sorbet and the caviar?

[Chris Amirault]

It was minced, combined with apple and cucumber and (I think) very finely minced chives. No rice.

[docsconz]

It was minced, combined with apple and cucumber and (I think) very finely minced chives. No rice.

Ok, looking at the photo more closely I see there isn't any rice. I think my imagination was playing tricks on me.

[Chris Amirault]

I have so very much to say about this experience. I still haven't been able to think about a way to structure my thoughts organically, so I think the easiest thing for me to do is to acquiesce to the bad writer's crutch and write a few individual posts about the three topics that I find most compelling. I'll start with what for me is both the foundation and yet the least compelling: the food.

Please don't understand from that last sentence that the food was anything other than utterly compelling. Indeed, as I said above, I had last night, without question, the best meal of my life. Each course was a perfectly conceived and executed dish; nothing was less than outstanding and most was transcendent. Most importantly, all of it was really good food.

Let me try to clarify using negatives. None were first and foremost "statements," though there was intelligence lurking behind every design. The liquid praline isn't an intellectual exercise in state manipulation; it happens to be the best name for a remarkably concentrated sauce that plays with and off of a sweet bleu cheese, slices of lamb nudged just past raw, and a few salty potato chips.

And none of the dishes were clever -- no easy jokes about middlebrow standards here. Take amuse #2: the egg, potato, and bacon dish was, in fact, a gasp-inducing version of a classic combination, right down to translucent sage leaves pressed between the thin slices of potato. It wasn't an opportunity for knowing glances around the table about the joke; we were all too busy savoring each bite. Ditto each of the three chocolates, such as the drink: the hot chocolate, malted milk, and rice crispies may have been meant to invoke what a Nestle Crunch bar tastes like in Brigadoon, but no one really would have cared one way or another. The allusion wasn't the point.

And, yeah, the truffle jus was delivered into the yolk via hypodermic needle, and, yeah, quite a few things hit the sous vide water for long stretches during the previous week. But nothing in this meal existed for the purpose of showing off the technology. You would understand this if you had the remarkable good fortune to allow a forkful of that veal cheek (which had spent three days in sous vide, then had been braised, then had been caramelized under a disk of tart dough) melt into your body. The point of this meal was not to showcase the gadgets that lined the walls of the dining room. The gadgets that lined the walls of the dining room existed to showcase the food.

You want positives? Well, let's do a Q&A.

What do you need to provide a firm background for Japanese pickled herring, tart yuzu sorbet, and that oceanic hackleback caviar, to bring each of those elements out without any fanfare? Right: spearmint oil. Can't taste it; it's the canvas from which everything else leaps.

How about those pesky skate wings, a bit too thin to stand up to a meaty oxtail ravioli: what to do? Yep, press two fillets, grain juxtaposed, for a while in the fridge and then sear them intensely with a Sichuan pepper dusting, then borrow another Chinese technique and place them atop some braised lettuce. Right? Of course it's right.

What do you want to dip that quail into, friend? How about pea, parsley, and (I think) scallion, pureed for nearly half an hour to burst the chlorophyll forth?

Need something for veal cheek to play with? Sure, agrodolce cipollini and braised mushrooms are nice -- but doesn't it really call out for egg salad beaten nearly to an uncooked souffle, made with perfectly poached eggs, churned-to-almost-butter cream, and truffle oil? You bet it does.

If that can't convince you, I offer the last moment of the meal.

Mies van der Rohe said that he preferred drawings to words because it's so hard to lie with the former; Jeff's photo of the raspberry cider with cauliflower foam tells the story better than I can. The only thing I can say about that little glass is that, when it arrived at our tables, we all stared at it like kids watching snow cascade through the sky for the first time.

We were, in fact, there in that room, the first to watch cauliflower snow cascade through the liquid sky. Shola confirmed: it was his first time, too.

[KatieLoeb]

Looks like people are still recovering, so allow me to add the names of the dishes from the menu to Philadining's excellent shots:

Apparently, the answer is: fairly crazy....

StudioKitchen February 2, 2006

Aperitif:  Weingut Ratzenberger Bachracher Kloster Ferstental Sekt Brut 2000

A perennial fave for StudioKitchen dinners, this sparkling riesling makes your mouth water and gets your tummy rumbling.  Elegant and complex and one of my very favorite wines in the whole world.

Amuse Bouche # 1 - Shima Saba, Spicy Yuzu Sorbet, Hackleback Caviar

Winzer Kremser Gruner Veltliner Ried Sandgrube 2002

A delicious Austrian wine with lots of citrus and white pepper flavors and a healthy dose of minerality.  Interesting flavors that paired well with both this course and the next and the acidity stood up to the richness of the poached egg and choron sauce quite well.



Amuse Bouche # 2 - Potato Terrine, Nueske Applewood Smoked Ham, Poached Egg, Lobster Choron

Cakebread Chardonnay Napa Valley 2003

And because we couldn't help but open this bottle that Percy so kindly donated to the cause, we had a chance to taste this very aromatic and lovely Chardonnay.  Much less over the top than most California chardonnay, I thought this wine was quite elegant and subtle, counter to typecasting.  Lots of fruit but with excellent acidity to balance it, this wine was a real treat.



Carpaccio of Lamb, Pecan-Lemon Liquid Praline, St Agur, Mezza Arugula, Binjte Potatoes

Corte Gardoni Bardolino Le Fontane 2004

Berry fruity and relatively light red wine that went well with the lamb, but better with the bites of lamb with the St. Agur cheese than the bites without.


Roasted Griggstown Quail, Farci of Foie Gras and Sweetbreads, Pea Fondue, Truffle Jus

Domaine Jean-Pierre Diconne Auxey-Duresse 2003

This might have been my favorite pairing of the night.  The burgundy had just enough earthiness and mushroomy-ness to pick up and accentuate the Truffle Jus.  And I always love burgundy with little birdies.



Skate Wing Roasted with Sichuan Pepper, Oxtail Ravioli, Braised Bibb Lettuce, Gigondas Sauce

Roberto Ferrris Barbera d'Asti Superiore 'Nobbio' 2004

Skate and Oxtail, what to do??? Shola lives to torment anyone trying to pair wines with his diabolical combinations of flavors, proteins and textures.  This is a quite concentrated single vineyard Barbera from Piemonte.  Surprisingly it did not overwhelm the skate and the very fruity cherrylike flavor went extremely well with the Oxtail and Gigondas sauce. Shola had a lot of fun saying "Gigondas Sauce".

Fontodi Flaccianello della Peive 2001

This is 100% Sangiovese Super Tuscan that was kindly donated by Evan.  Very concentrated and delicious wine that was more French than Italian in character, if not flavors.  Nice toasty oak and vanilla flavors that complimented the cherry, leather and spice of the Sangiovese.  Fabulous with the oxtail ravioli and a real treat to get to taste.



Veal Cheek Tatin, Cipollini Agradolce, Mushroom Daube, Truffle Egg Salad

Aldo Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba 2004

Dolcetto means "little sweet one" in local dialect and as a varietal, remains one of my favorites.  It's not actually sweet, but generally low in tannin, soft and easy to drink.  This Vajra is a particularly excellent example of why dolcetto is so easy to love.  It's fruity and a little herbal and was delicious with the veal cheek and the etherially light truffled egg salad.




Chocolate Ganache Cake, Orange, Cardamon, Smoked Cocoa
Rasberry Cider, Cauliflower Froth, Shaved White Chocolate
Hot Chocolate, Malted Milk, Rice Krispies

Sant Orsola Brachetto d'Acqui NV

Sweet red sparkling wine.  What's not to like?  And it's just the perfect thing with chocolate in any guise.  When I saw we were having chocolate three ways this one was a no brainer.

For the post-prandial babbling and blather we opened two more small bottles of dessert wine from Evan's deep stash of stickies.

Inniskillin Riesling Ice Wine 2002

This is the stuff that makes you realize for the first time why ice wine is like nectar. It's just so good. Immense concentration of fruitiness and acidity. Since the winemaker has to wait until the grapes are literally frozen to make this wine, every drop is precious and preserves that concentrated fragrance and flavor. I could drink this stuff forever.

Alvear Pedro Ximenez Solera 1927

This really is one of the most delicious sherrys I've tasted. Dark amber, viscous and sweet, but not oversweet, it smells like a nutty creme brulee and is not entirely dissimilar to maple syrup in texture and certain flavors. A little thimbleful of this goes a long way and is the very best dessert after dessert I can think of.

A special thanks to Chris and Andrea for making the long trip and setting this up. Hope you agree that it was worth it.

And Evan, thanks for sharing more than your fair-share of wines, including the Inniskillin ice wine and the Alvear PX Solera.

Now, if only the "Duchess" who relieved me of my wine scribe duties could post about the wines

OK, OK!! I've added the wines above in red with my impressions afterward in purple to distinguish my words from Percy's. I can't even decide what my favorite dish was because everything was so good. Shola really outdid himself (as usual) and the real touches of mad genius like the truffle juice injections, egg salad that should have floated into mid-air and the raspberry cider, cauliflower and white chocolate combination (who'd have thought that those things went together??) were a pleasure to behold and moreso to eat.

I'd like to thank every single person that made this dinner so memorable. To Shola for being such a mad man <insert evil laughing here>, to the crack staff at Moore Brothers for hooking up the wine, to my fellow diners for their excellent conversation, companionship and camaraderie, thanks to Evan and Percy for dipping into their enviable cellars for a little more wine, and a special thanks to Chris and Andrea for driving all the way from Providence to Philly and setting this up - it was truly a pleasure to meet them both. It was a rare synergy of food, wine and people and I'm so glad I got to be part of it.

[M.X.Hassett]

Words escape me. Wow.

As I have told people before, one of the greatest aspects of SK is the direct contact the diner has with Shola. To me this is one of the concepts I see as being the future of dining. It allows an unprecedented level of culinary access as yet unseen outside of a handfull of restaurants in the business. I second Chris’ idea of a Shola Q&A.

[Chris Amirault]

I didn't get a chance to write about the wine pairings above because, well, I didn't write 'em down while I was eating. Thanks to Katie, Evan, and Percy for donating their time, insights, and even wine to the cause. I'll say more about this soon, but the participation of the guests in the evening is one important aspect of what makes a meal at SK not only unique but communally remarkable.

[Chris Amirault]

Forgive my obsessive posting but I must continue. I'm not sure what to call the subject of this second installment of my reaction to dinner two nights ago. "The experience" seems too flakily phenomenological, Husserl cum Hendrix, so I'll go with the event.

When I read Steven Shaw's Turning the Tables, I found myself deeply agreeing with his comments about establishing your own local favorites and becoming a regular there. It's what I do here in my own town of Providence; we have a handful of places (shops as well as restaurants) at which we know we can feel that strangely contradictory comfort of out-at-home.

Sometimes we have dinners at those regular joints that include friends, people with whom we feel relaxed and convivial. Of course, my interest in food is a bit over-the-top for virtually all of my pals, and as such I usually rein it in a bit. That is to say, my intense attention to food doesn't really promote social lubrication.

In a perfect world, I'd have all of these things: an experience at a restaurant that feels out-at-home, shared with friends, during which we all can indulge in our love for food. That's a good way to describe my experience at StudioKitchen.

When I was walking up to Shola's door with Holly, Carman, and Andrea after Holly had parked, I felt as if we were walking into the home of someone I knew from another context, that sense of slight familiarity overshadowed by an awareness that I really had no idea whatsoever what to expect. We walked up the stairs, and before we could get to the red door, Jeff opened it up and escorted us up two flights of stairs with no decoration whatsoever. And then? Well, then you walk into the coolest space you've ever seen.

There are lots of shots of the space elsewhere on this thread, so I'll spare the enticing details about the Thermomix, the gazillion All-Clad pots, the anti-griddle, and the meticulous storage system. What I want to emphasize here is how much the place still felt like a space that was full of life. Shola, who was already toiling away in his postage-stamp-sized kitchen, waved hi to us as we snooped around. We milled about the dining room, pointed and joked, and I realized that I had immediately felt at ease. On the drive back home, Andrea said that it was like having your pal over to cook in your house because he's such a great cook. I agreed: it was more like being in our own house than in a restaurant. We were, indeed, out-at-home.

What's more, the StudioKitchen requirement of eight to ten people forces a very particular sort of social planning. You've got to pony up $100 for a meal not of your choosing (though you can excise allergies and intense dislikes), select and bring your own booze, and find at least seven more folks to join you. I confess to a bit of anxiety about the last thing on that list, but I shouldn't have worried: I had dinner with a remarkable group of people. Everyone was eager to talk and share their experiences of the food; most of us shared anecdotes about other food-related things while we waited for Shola to finish or plate the next dish.

Most of all, everyone was terrifically excited. This was not a crowd of jaded food snobs waiting to have our suspicions confirmed or denied; this was a group of people who felt truly thrilled to discover what each sights, smells, textures, and flavors each next course would bring. When the courses did arrive, we set upon them slowly, carefully, with great delight and attention (and, yes, with a few digital camera flashes). And then, we'd start talking, producing an analysis that was motivated not by smug superiority nor by a desire to criticize but by a shared belief that such analysis would heighten and extend our individual and shared senses of pleasure.

We did this for nearly five hours, and I enjoyed every second. I realize that there certainly must be people who do not want this sort of out-at-home experience when they go to a restaurant. As must now be pretty clear, that ain't me. Until I walked up those stairs, I would never have been able to describe my ideal for eating out. Now I know.

When he was serving one of the courses, Shola quietly said, "Damn -- I thought I put this chipped plate away." "Put it here," I blurted. Even though I hadn't known it before he set them down, both the dish and the plate were just what I wanted.

edited to fix some spelling and clarity problems --ca

Edited by chrisamirault, 05 February 2006 - 04:46 PM.

[philadining]

Chris,
Thanks so much for posting your impressions, I think some of the regulars here forget some of the most remarkable parts of the experience, because it feels so familiar so quickly.

It's been mentioned many times that a StudioKitchen dinner is affected quite a lot by the group at the table and the interaction with Shola, which then cross-pollinate one another. I have absolutely seen Shola's vibe change based on the energy of the table, and that makes its way into the food, and in the type of conversation and interaction one has with him.

I know for sure that he amps up the cooking a bit for our eGullet groups, because he knows that he has a receptive and open-minded crowd, up for experiments and adventures.

And outside of what's on the plate, there have been some nights that are practically master-classes in cooking techniques, other dinners that are outright hilarious discussions of restaurants and food and culinary trends, others that are all business, it really depends on who's there, and how they're interacting with each other.

That aspect came up in a recent on-line chat with Craig LaBan (the food reviewer from the major newspaper in Philly, for you out-of-towners), when someone asked him if he'd been to SK. He said he had, but that it was a while ago, and while quite complimentary, he hedges a little, saying " Shola is a very fine chef and an intriguing individual (exceptional for industry gossip), though, perhaps not quite as God-like as some chatrooms would have you to believe" (hmmm... I wonder to whom he could be referring?!?!)

And that is something I was just thinking about the other day, it's actually a little hard to believe that of the pages and pages of posts in this thread, there's not a single complaint about the food. You know, he's good, but still... But as I think back across my admittedly many many meals there, I honestly can't think of anything that wasn't excellent. Of course I've liked some dishes more than others, but I can't think of a single thing that I'd ask him to NOT do at a future dinner.

LaBan says he had a few things that were exceptional, some others that were "not better than your standard upscale restaurant" which is not much of an indictment... I don't think I could argue too vigorously with that, a few upscale restaurants might serve dishes similar to some of what he makes, but I haven't been to any that have been as consistently interesting and delicious, and sometimes stunning, from start to finish, across that many courses.

And if it indeed was "a long time ago" that he went, I'd recommend a repeat visit, and in fact, he should come with us! We can keep a secret....

I like Shola a lot, and respect his skills, but I haven't quite gotten to the god-like reverence stage. But then, it's still early days, a few more meals like last week could bring me over to that side! But I do worry sometimes that we're over-selling it, with nothing but enraptured raves, how can it live up to the hype? But somehow it always seems to...

But seriously, we're just cranky enough here on eGullet that I feel like we'd be willing to whine a bit about something that didn't live up to our expectations. I think it's testimony to Shola's skills that all we can muster is the occasional note that he can be subtle with his flavors, and the persistent call for bread.

Ahh, there it is, I feel like less of a flack! Shola, we need bread!!! Not a big basket of bread at all times, I'm with you, there's no need to fill up on it, nibbling distractedly between courses. But that poached egg, injected with truffle, balanced on the terrine of ham and potato, the yolk flowing into that luxurious loster choron: it was heartbreaking to not be able to sop-up some of those remaining liquids with a nice slice of toasted challa, or a shred of brioche, or a little round of baguette. I tell you, people are going to start sneaking their own in....

But back to the original point, I encourage more folks to post (Ferky?!?!) I think we'd all like to hear more voices, more impressions, more perspectives. And thanks again to Chris for putting into words some of those feelings that we all had at first, but too quickly take for granted.

[docsconz]

It is precisely because of the apparent quality of the food, comradery, intimacy and conviviality that I am so excited to be going there. In my experience all the best meals that I have had have one this in common. They provide great food in an atmosphere of excitement and joy. Nothing can kill a great meal more quickly than to be with someone or someones who not only don't share in the excitement, b ut who obviously would prefer to be elsewhere. It seems to me that the raves for the food are deserved at least by what I can see here. It also seems to me that one of the reasons that the food is able to ellicit those raves is because the atmosphere and the group dynamics allow it.

[Holly Moore]

I agree. It is tragic that so much flavor ends up in the dishwater.

A few thoughts -

Many restaurants make a point of saying, "Go ahead, use your fingers," overruling the social doctrine that one must not use their hands when eating fried chicken. Perhaps Shola could do the same with licking the plate. Bread adds flavor and bulk; plate licking does neither. The ideal solution.

Another idea would be for Shola to conjure up a tasteless, absorbant, edible sponge that could be used to sop up juices and gravy.

Or, as a last resort, if there must be bread, adapt Chef Marc Veyrat's approach of pairing flavored breads with courses.

[mrbigjas]

Many restaurants make a point of saying, "Go ahead, use your fingers," overruling the social doctrine that one must not use their hands when eating fried chicken.  Perhaps Shola could do the same with licking the plate.  Bread adds flavor and bulk; plate licking does neither.  The ideal solution.

i came to the realization this past time that clear plates would be perfect for allowing plate licking while retaining the ability to make conversation...

[philadining]

I've been there with an unrepentant plate-licker... nobody even raised an eyebrow.

[I_call_the_duck]

A joke in my family is to lift the plate up to your face and ask the person sitting across from you "where was this plate was made?" While that person is reading the bottom of the plate, he/she won't notice that you're licking the plate. I came really close to doing that at my last SK dinner.

edited for clarification

Edited by I_call_the_duck, 06 February 2006 - 02:16 PM.

[Curlz]

Many restaurants make a point of saying, "Go ahead, use your fingers," overruling the social doctrine that one must not use their hands when eating fried chicken.  Perhaps Shola could do the same with licking the plate.  Bread adds flavor and bulk; plate licking does neither.  The ideal solution.

Wait...you mean I shouldn't have done that when I was at SK?!?

[Jeff L]

Forgive my obsessive posting but I must continue. I'm not sure what to call the subject of this second installment of my reaction to dinner two nights ago. "The experience" seems too flakily phenomenological, Husserl cum Hendrix, so I'll go with the event.

When I read Steven Shaw's Turning the Tables, I found myself deeply agreeing with his comments about establishing your own local favorites and becoming a regular there. It's what I do here in my own town of Providence; we have a handful of places (shops as well as restaurants) at which we know we can feel that strangely contradictory comfort of out-at-home.

Sometimes we have dinners at those regular joints that include friends, people with whom we feel relaxed and convivial. Of course, my interest in food is a bit over-the-top for virtually all of my pals, and as such I usually rein it in a bit. That is to say, my intense attention to food doesn't really promote social lubrication.

In a perfect world, I'd have all of these things: an experience at a restaurant that feels out-at-home, shared with friends, during which we all can indulge in our love for food. That's a good way to describe my experience at StudioKitchen.

When I was walking up to Shola's door with Holly, Carman, and Andrea after Holly had parked, I felt as if we were walking into the home of someone I knew from another context, that sense of slight familiarity overshadowed by an awareness that I really had no idea whatsoever what to expect. We walked up the stairs, and before we could get to the red door, Jeff opened it up and escorted us up two flights of stairs with no decoration whatsoever. And then? Well, then you walk into the coolest space you've ever seen.

There are lots of shots of the space elsewhere on this thread, so I'll spare the enticing details about the Thermomix, the gazillion All-Clad pots, the anti-griddle, and the meticulous storage system. What I want to emphasize here is how much the place still felt like a space that was full of life. Shola, who was already toiling away in his postage-stamp-sized kitchen, waved hi to us as we snooped around. We milled about the dining room, pointed and joked, and I realized that I had immediately felt at ease. On the drive back home, Andrea said that it was like having your pal over to cook in your house because he's such a great cook. I agreed: it was more like being in our own house than in a restaurant. We were, indeed, out-at-home.

What's more, the StudioKitchen requirement of eight to ten people forces a very particular sort of social planning. You've got to pony up $100 for a meal not of your choosing (though you can excise allergies and intense dislikes), select and bring your own booze, and find at least seven more folks to join you. I confess to a bit of anxiety about the last thing on that list, but I shouldn't have worried: I had dinner with a remarkable group of people. Everyone was eager to talk and share their experiences of the food; most of us shared anecdotes about other food-related things while we waited for Shola to finish or plate the next dish.

Most of all, everyone was terrifically excited. This was not a crowd of jaded food snobs waiting to have our suspicions confirmed or denied; this was a group of people who felt truly thrilled to discover what each sights, smells, textures, and flavors each next course would bring. When the courses did arrive, we set upon them slowly, carefully, with great delight and attention (and, yes, with a few digital camera flashes). And then, we'd start talking, producing an analysis that was motivated not by smug superiority nor by a desire to criticize but by a shared belief that such analysis would heighten and extend our individual and shared senses of pleasure.

We did this for nearly five hours, and I enjoyed every second. I realize that there certainly must be people who do not want this sort of out-at-home experience when they go to a restaurant. As must now be pretty clear, that ain't me. Until I walked up those stairs, I would never have been able to describe my ideal for eating out. Now I know.

When he was serving one of the courses, Shola quietly said, "Damn -- I thought I put this chipped plate away." "Put it here," I blurted. Even though I hadn't known it before he set them down, both the dish and the plate were just what I wanted.

edited to fix some spelling and clarity problems --ca

Chris, I too thank you for your heartfelt recounting of some of the other non-food things that seem to be business at usual at SK. There really are many pages of posts and great pictures of the amazing meals had at SK on this thread and it's refreshing to read of others overall feeling and experience without recounting just the food and wine. Don't get me wrong, I love reading about the food and wine too, it's just I don't get to hear some of what you've described to us.

I can not tell you how excited (and embarrased that it's taken so long) I am to be going there for my first time in a few weeks. I will also thank Jeff T for the one invitation that didn't conflict with my schedule.

Anyway, it was really nice reading your post because it dealt with the other factors which all contribute to an amazing dining experience, great people, great conversation, great surroundings and the ultimate anticipation of what is surely to come from Shola. I've been reading this thread for a while now and almost feel like I know him.

I've been thinking about this E Gullet world and it dawns on me that for the most part, posters here are like the ones you described in your post in attendance at SK. The fact that they are extremely well versed in all aspects of food and most oten, wines, they discuss in a non snobby and non elitist way. I think, for me, this is one of the most appealing aspects of EG as a whole and the reason I spend entirely too much time here!!

[shacke]

Thanks so much for posting your impressions, I think some of the regulars here forget some of the most remarkable parts of the experience, because it feels so familiar so quickly.

Not me. Every time's like the first. I just wish I were as eloquent as Chris! What a post that was sir.

That aspect came up in a recent on-line chat with Craig LaBan (the food reviewer from the major newspaper in Philly, for you out-of-towners), when someone asked him if he'd been to SK. He said he had, but that it was a while ago, and while quite complimentary, he hedges a little, saying " Shola is a very fine chef and an intriguing individual (exceptional for industry gossip), though, perhaps not quite as God-like as some chatrooms  would have you to believe" (hmmm... I wonder to whom he could be referring?!?!)

Good. 1 bell from Laban. Hates it. yup. Next. Not good enough, now drop the thought. Leave us nutty dull palated chatroomsters be!

Ahh, there it is, I feel like less of a flack!  Shola, we need bread!!!  Not a big basket of bread at all times, I'm with you, there's no need to fill up on it, nibbling distractedly between courses. ....I tell you, people are going to start sneaking their own in....

If it becomes BYO"B", count me in for baking the bread!

[Chris Amirault]

Thanks for the feedback. I appreciate it. I actually was planning a third post that focused specifically on Shola, but instead I think I'll just react to some of the things that other people have posted.

It's been mentioned many times that a StudioKitchen dinner is affected quite a lot by the group at the table and the interaction with Shola, which then cross-pollinate one another. I have absolutely seen Shola's vibe change based on the energy of the table, and that makes its way into the food, and in the type of conversation and interaction one has with him. 

I know for sure that he amps up the cooking a bit for our eGullet groups, because he knows that he has a receptive and open-minded crowd, up for experiments and adventures.

And outside of what's on the plate,  there have been some nights that are practically master-classes in cooking techniques, other dinners that are outright hilarious discussions of restaurants and food and culinary trends, others that are all business, it really depends on who's there, and how they're interacting with each other.

Jeff, I think that this really gets to an important point, which comments about treating Shola as a god miss utterly. Anyone who's been there knows that Shola is, very happily, just a smart, attractive, articulate, friendly man who happens to cook remarkably well. Considering how easy it would be to fawn all over him, his refusal to act the star is an accomplishment all by itself.

Given what a good bloke he is, it's great that he's just this side of a dining companion for much of the meal. He wants to know what you think, talk about what you're talking about, join in without butting in. Of course, when he's not chatting about D'Artagnan's quail or that night's BYOW selection with you, he's whipping you up the things shown above in his ClosetKitchen (which, I cannot resist to add, alone makes comparisons to other chefs in spacious, well-appointed and -staffed kitchens absurd).

I think that John's got it -- and will have a very enjoyable experience soon as a result:

It is precisely because of the apparent quality of the food, comradery, intimacy and conviviality that I am so excited to be going there. In my experience all the best meals that I have had have one this in common. They provide great food in an atmosphere of excitement and joy. Nothing can kill a great meal more quickly than to be with someone or someones who not only don't share in the excitement, b ut who obviously would prefer to be elsewhere.

I couldn't agree more -- and, John, unlike most other restaurant experiences I've had, the chef in this case is a central part of the conviviality.

Anyway, it was really nice reading your post because it dealt with the other factors which all contribute to an amazing dining experience, great people, great conversation, great surroundings and the ultimate anticipation of what is surely to come from Shola. I've been reading this thread for a while now and almost feel like I know him.

And stop and think about that for a moment. What restaurant dining experiences have you had that have left you feeling any human connection with the chef? And what restaurant dining experience have you read about that have left you feeling that way?

[Jeff L]

Anyway, it was really nice reading your post because it dealt with the other factors which all contribute to an amazing dining experience, great people, great conversation, great surroundings and the ultimate anticipation of what is surely to come from Shola. I've been reading this thread for a while now and almost feel like I know him.

And stop and think about that for a moment. What restaurant dining experiences have you had that have left you feeling any human connection with the chef? And what restaurant dining experience have you read about that have left you feeling that way?

In a word, none

Edited by KatieLoeb, 06 February 2006 - 09:05 PM.

[docsconz]

And stop and think about that for a moment. What restaurant dining experiences have you had that have left you feeling any human connection with the chef? And what restaurant dining experience have you read about that have left you feeling that way?

Actually, most of the very best dining experiences I have had have included significant interaction with the chef, although perhaps not to the degree one has at SK. When I was talking about my best dining experiences I was certainly including restaurant experiences, but they are not limited to those. Some of my best dining experiences have also occurred in people's homes, including my good friend Joseph B.'s. In all cases the food was exceptional, but it was that combined with a relaxed conviviality that makes a dining event truly special. It is not simply one thing, but a confluence of elements that elevate a dining experience to true greatness.

[KatieLoeb]

Chris:

I have to thank you for dragging the rest of us over-fortunate types back to reality. At one point during the meal the other day you leaned across the table and looked me dead in the eye and said, "Do you realize how lucky all of you are to have this here at your disposal so frequently??

I might not have grasped the enormity of what you were saying then, but having read your eloquent and utterly objective posts since our wonderful dinner, I certainly do now. Those of us that are fortunate enough to be frequent dining companions at Shola's table are utterly spoiled by being able to do so regularly. It is, and always shall be, a treat and a priviledge, even if we sometimes forget.

[hathor]

Seems I’ve joined the ranks of the lucky who have dined at Studio Kitchen. And you know what, it lived up to its reputation. No pictures to post. No wine list to review. Just some thoughts to share.
The menu was probably not the most aggressive, outlandish menu ever created by this chef, but it certainly showcased how he thinks about flavors. This was a careful and exacting menu, designed to tease and please without ever frightening anyone.
Menu:
Parsley root soup that was a smooth, seductive foil to the bits of grapefruit, braised scallions, and candied pecans that randomly showed up on the spoon. Each spoonful was a uniquely flavored taste journey.

Herb risotto with fennel emulsion, manchego cheese and chicken escabeche that was a riotuous green mound of pea studded risotto, surrounded by white foam, topped with the orange spiced chicken. Totally satisfying. Made me want to see what Chef could do in the spring when all these herbs and peas are locally fresh.

Skate that was cooked perfectly and accented by a fennel, green apple slaw that also complimented the sweet and silky parsnip puree.

Veal cheek extravaganza: braised veal cheek, and then another cheek turning up, placed on top of an unctuous short rib/caramelized onion ravioli. Delicious. But the rutabaga/vanilla puree was the flavor combination of the evening. Totally inspired blending of flavors.

Dessert was a medley of flavor sensations: from the cauliflower ice cream over peach pain perdu to the apricot ginger compote, all loosely tied together by the delicate elderflower syrup.

Wonderful wines. Wonderful company.
Not only cannot I not wait to return to Studio Kitchen (and I swear…now that we’ve settled on how to get there….I will never be late again!), but I’m still pondering the flavor combinations. There is equal part intuition and intelligence in these combinations that makes you want to see what he will come up with next.

[philadining]

Hathor, glad you made it to SK, and enjoyed your dinner!

That menu is not too different from what many of us have been seeing, but you're probably right: he might need to get to know your crowd a little better before he'll spring something really unusual on you... But I'd be happy with those dishes any day.

Welcome to the club, and we look forward to more reports in the future!

[hathor]

Studio Kitchen's food doesn't have to be unusual....just those flavor texture/combinations for relatively normal ingredients is enough to keep me very, very happy!

[handmc]

This makes me sad. Shola's response to my email

Thanks for your interest.
Studiokitchen will be closed indefinitely at the end of march.
The last 8 dinners have been booked.
The entire schedule for the last month is complete. and nothing is available.

Thanks for your interest.
Studiokitchen

On 2/18/06, Handmc@aol.com <Handmc@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Shola:
>
> After months of reading on Egullet I can't put it off any longer, I have
> rounded up a group who I am sure you can dazzle.
>
> Do you have any dates open in March or April?

[philadining]

...Studiokitchen will be closed indefinitely at the end of march...

And some of you mock me for going as often as possible!

It is the middle of February already, so I'm not too surprised that he's booked through March. And he's been planning on doing some traveling and studying, so closing-up for a while is not a big surprise to many of us.

Of course we certainly hope that "indefinitely" isn't too long, and there's reason to believe that there will be StudioKitchen dinners again in the future, but when? If? Will it be the same thing? Who knows?

We shouldn't take Shola and StudioKitchen for granted...

[shacke]

We shouldn't take Shola and StudioKitchen for granted...

I couldn't have said it better myself and I agree 100%

I still have the same feeling about SK as I did in my very first post somewhere buried in the earlier part of this thread. It is an experience that I will one day recall very fondly when Shola closes shop. I treat every meal there as if it were going to be my last there and if you do actually take it for granted then you are missing out on the magic.

Having said all that, I hope the end is nowhere near and I suspect we will be treated to some awe inspiring dinners after his triumphant return from the European campaigns.


Evan

[Chris Amirault]

Evan, this one-timer thinks you hit the nail on the head.