68 replies to this topic

[Schneier]

Absolutely fabulous dinner at The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco last month. Perfect food, perfect service, beautiful room.

I'll start with the menu I didn't order, just because the idea is so brilliant that I can barely sit still:

Salt and Pepper Tasting Menu:

Course 1. Kauaí sea salt & pink peppercorns: Dungeness crab claw, spot prawn sashimi, watermelon radish, rice vinegar.

Course 2. Tahitian vanilla sea salt & Muntock white pepper: seared toro, beech mushrooms, mirin reduction.

Course 3. Fleur de sel & long pepper: foie gras medallion, huckleberries, apple reduction, tonka bean essence.

Course 4. Sea salt smoked over welsh oak & espelette pepper: Maine lobster, pork belly, clam broth.

Course 5. Maldon sea salt & pondicherry peppercorns: Sonoma duck breast, satsuma mandarins, napa cabbage.

Course 6. Bolivian rock salt & Schezuan peppercorns: dry aged beef rib eye, abalone mushrooms, potato gnocchi.

Course 7. Cinnamon sea salt & green peppercorns: blood orange sorbet, champagne gelee.

Course 8. Citrus fleur de sel & Tasmanian pepper: strawberry consomme, vanilla ice cream, tapioca pearls, lime chiboust.

That's right: each dish with a different salt and a different pepper. I so want to do that.

Instead, we ordered the Nine Course Tasting Menu. Each course was actually two different courses, one for the males at the table and the other for the females. (I've seen this before; it's a clever idea.)

Nine Course Tasting Menu:

Course 1: White asparagus veloute: golden osetra caviar, leeks, miyago oysters. Or squab consomme: bone marrow, wood ear mushrooms.

Course 2: Sashimi of live spot prawns: wasabi, Japanese sea salts, lemon juice, sauteed heads, yuzu gelle. Or big fin squid noodles: scallions, wood ear mushrooms, squid ink gelee, ponzu essence.

Course 3: Halibut: golden osetra caviar, carrots, asparagus, lemon fumet. Or sea bass: crab ravioli, artichokes, leeks, coconut ditrus reduction.

Course 4: Maine lobster: pork belly, daikon, sweet onion, mushrooms, sweet and sour sauce. Or Maine lobster: English peas, lobster carrot broth.

Course 5: Hot foie gras: spicy pickled huckelberries, crouton, apple juice infused with black pepper. Or chilled foie gras: fuzzy green almonds, goji berries, pinot gris gelee, ginger rhubarb foam, Mexican vanilla salt, mache, grilled bread.

Course 6: Quail: chanterelle mushrooms, rhubarb, Swiss chard, natural reduction. Or poularde: turnips, red wine braised oxtail.

Course 7: Lamb: gnocchi, abalone mushrooms, thyme infused lamb jus. Beef tenderloin: baby artichokes, Swiss chard, green garlic, Italian butter beans, bordelaise.

Course 8: Lychee sorbet: Hibiscus gelee. Or strawberry-rhubarb sorbet: citrus segments.

Course 9: Chocolate manjari caramel cake: almond, hazelnut foam, teccino Amaretto ice cream, hazelnut dentelle, maldon salt. Or cardadamom panna cotta: pineapple soup, carrot ice cream.

Wines:

2003 Sylvaner Reserve, Domaine Weimbach, Alsace.

2003 Peay Vineyards, Roussanne/Marsanne, Sonoma Coast.

2000 Kiralyudvar, cuvee Ilona, Tokaji.

2002 Lancaster Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley.

2005 Brachetto d'Acqui, Luigi Coppo, Piedmont.

I was busy enjoying the company, so I didn't take any real notes. Everything was delicious. There were no clunkers. Pretty much a perfect meal.

[docsconz]

"A very good restaurant in its category" is how the Michelin guide defines a one star rating. This is what they gave The Dining Room at the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco. Based on my meal there last month, I would have to say that it is indeed a very good restaurant in its category, that category being haute cuisine. Nevertheless in this age of grade inflation, that doesn't seem like it should be enough of a grade for this excellent restaurant.

My wife and I dined there solo at the end of what had been a very, very good trip for food. We were greeted warmly and showed to a nice table for two with reasonable light for photography. We opted to let Chef Siegel cook for us and did not regret it as he and his team prepared separate menus for my wife and I.

After a glass of champagne our meal started with...

Seared Samna with ponzu gelée, persimmon scented with lime and breakfast radish.
Samna is a long, thin barracuda like fish from Japan. The skin was exquisitely crispy and delicious - a nice start.


Sea Urchin Panna Cotta lobster, avocado, Tahitian vanilla bean oil.
This was another dish that we both received. The panna cotta was unctuous and the combination sang a beautiful song.


Quail Egg 64º golden osetra caviar, croutons cedar smoke essence
The bottom line on this dish is that it was delicious and perhaps my favorite of the evening. Nevertheless I couldn't help but think of Joan Roca who I saw do a demonstration using smoke and seafood in the very same serving dish a year ago at the CIA's Spain and the World Table Conference.


Our first wine, a delicious gruner veltliner.

The next course started the dual servings. My wife was served Fennel and Pepper Soup with basil creme fraiche which she very much enjoyed. I received an ethereal

Butternut Squah Soup with bacon jerky, foie gras and shiitake turnovers. The shiitake turnover is in the background of the photo.

My next course came under a cloche.


Cold Smoked Toro, geoduck sashimi, toybox tomatoes, shiso buds, persian cucumbers...

...kaffir lime zest
This was delicious, but when I tasted my wife's course, I wanted that!


Sashimi of Live Spot Prawns, yuzu and pink peppercorn gelée, fresh wasabi and crispy heads.
Though I didn't get a good photo of this ethereal dish, I did get a good taste The crispy heads were particularly noteworthy. At Michael Mina I was disappointed by my shrimp dish, but not so here. It outshone a very, very good toro dish.


Medai, abalone, artichoke puree, mirin reduction


Sea Bass, butternut squash, pomegranate, pomegranate foam
These dishes were good, but ultimately not memorable relative to the other dishes we were served.


Maine Lobster, veal cheek, scallions, peas, golden moki mushrooms, sweet and sour
This was my dish and quite a delicious surf and turf variant. I did not have a photo of my wife's Maine Lobster, shiso purée, baby turnips, baby leeks, lobster sake reduction, though it too was outstanding. The lobsters were I believed butter poached.


Hot Foie Gras, sleeping beauty apple juice with long pepper, pickled huckleberries
I love seared foie gras more than any other foie gras preparation and this one was seared perfectly. Unfortunately, it was served to my wife


Chilled Foie Gras, fig and szechuan pepper terrine, tawny port syrup, purslane, grilled bread.
Fortunately, this exquisite preparation went along way towards minimizing my envy.


Duck, baby bok choy, carrots, matsutake bouillon
I generally prefer duck a little more rare than was served here. Nevertheless, it was flavorful and quite satisfying.


Poularde Breast, baby beets, fuji apples, quince paste, chicken jus
The dishes were in this case presented to the most appropriate diners given the predilections of my wife and I. I love duck and will eat it anytime I get a chance. My wife, not so much. She would prefer chicken to duck almost always. This was great chicken, but I was still happy with the duck.


Niman Ranch Lamb Ribeye, jimmy nardello peppers, la strada eggplant, lemon verbena scented ricotta


Millbrook Venison Chop, butternut squash, spaetzle, brussels sprouts, sun-dried plums, bacon jus

Once again the selection gods were at work as my wife got the dish she preferred. I would have been happy with either, but my wife is not a huge fan of venison. That dish was the epitome of autumn. The butternut squash was sufficiently different from the soup that I did not in the least mind its repeat appearance.


A selection of cheeses from the cart. Though I no longer recall the specific cheeses I chose from the ample selection, they were all well- aged and perfect for service.

Desserts


Lychee sorbet, hibiscus yuzu seltzer
Very refreshing.


Strawberry Fig Sorbet, shiso cloud, pomegranate seed
Nicely done and also refreshing.


Caramel Pot de Creme, fennel seed funnel cake, pumpkin seed cloud, kobacha squash marmalade
By this time my wife and I were quite full. This dish was busy, but still enjoyable on my very full stomach.


Petits fours - Neither of us could even attempt a cannele that is how full we were.

The meal, which combined European ingredients and technique with a strong Japanese influence was simply superb from top to bottom. The wines were excellent, the room elegant and comfortable and the service efficient and professional. I can only wonder why this restaurant has not fared better by Michelin. Given some of the reviews on here and elsewhere, I have to wonder if there are inconsistencies. Perhaps, but the experience of my wife and myself was stellar. Though I was not sufficiently blown away by originality and sheer pleasure to think of the restaurant as worthy of three Michelin stars, my experience would place it squarely in the two star range.

Edited to change the bed to bread!

Edited by docsconz, 17 November 2007 - 04:15 PM.

[muichoi]

Looks delicious. But 'grilled bed'? have I missed something?

[molto e]

The meal, which combined European ingredients and technique with a strong Japanese influence was simply superb from top to bottom. The wines were excellent, the room elegant and comfortable and the service efficient and professional. I can only wonder why this restaurant has not fared better by Michelin. Given some of the reviews on here and elsewhere, I have to wonder if there are inconsistencies. Perhaps, but the experience of my wife and myself was stellar. Though I was not sufficiently blown away by originality and sheer pleasure to think of the restaurant as worthy of three Michelin stars, my experience would place it squarely in the two star range.

2 stars in your book is pretty damn good Doc...Chef Siegel is at the top of my list of chefs that I have not tried yet. I must say it looks fantastic on many levels...jealous, jealous

[docsconz]

Looks delicious. But 'grilled bed'? have I missed something?

It was that good! Thanks for picking that up!

[tupac17616]

No room for canneles?!

Just kidding. Looks like a great meal. Thank you for sharing, doc.

[rjwong]

What tupac said.

You know, you (or better yet your wife) could have subtlely asked for a small box to take the petit fours home to try later ...

[ulterior epicure]

What tupac said.

You know, you (or better yet your wife) could have subtlely asked for a small box to take the petit fours home to try later ...  

Seriously, doc, take a lesson from a professional glutton...

Edited by ulterior epicure, 18 November 2007 - 07:07 PM.

[docsconz]

What tupac said.

You know, you (or better yet your wife) could have subtlely asked for a small box to take the petit fours home to try later ... 

Seriously, doc, take a lesson from a professional glutton...

Those take home caramels were seriously good too, though we didn't have them that night.

[ulterior epicure]

What tupac said.

You know, you (or better yet your wife) could have subtlely asked for a small box to take the petit fours home to try later ...  

Seriously, doc, take a lesson from a professional glutton...

Those take home caramels were seriously good too, though we didn't have them that night.

Yes, the box was full of house caramels.... but, you see that Ritz Carlton bag in the background? That was filled with petite fours that the server insisted I take.

[tupac17616]

Yes, the box was full of house caramels.... but, you see that Ritz Carlton bag in the background?  That was filled with petite fours that the server insisted I take.   

Haha. That reminds me of something our waiter at the French Laundry said to me after I'd cleared every plate, tried one of every chocolate, killed off the remaining petite fours, etc:
"You are an inspiration to us all"

[ulterior epicure]

Yes, the box was full of house caramels.... but, you see that Ritz Carlton bag in the background?  That was filled with petite fours that the server insisted I take.   

Haha. That reminds me of something our waiter at the French Laundry said to me after I'd cleared every plate, tried one of every chocolate, killed off the remaining petite fours, etc:
"You are an inspiration to us all"

tupac, I think that if we were ever to eat together, we'd do some serious damage to some poor restaurant.

[tupac17616]

indeed

[docsconz]

What tupac said.

You know, you (or better yet your wife) could have subtlely asked for a small box to take the petit fours home to try later ... 

Seriously, doc, take a lesson from a professional glutton...

Those take home caramels were seriously good too, though we didn't have them that night.

Yes, the box was full of house caramels.... but, you see that Ritz Carlton bag in the background? That was filled with petite fours that the server insisted I take.

I may have to revise my opinion of the restaurant!

[weinoo]

A bit of a bump here...my wife and I will be in SF next month for a long weekend celebrating our 10th anniversary. I've made reservations here, figuring it will be a great meal and a perfect celebratory dinner. However, I'm also worried about the status of Chef Siegel, and the rumors swirling about (i.e. he's departing for Myth). I'd prefer not to eat here if it's in the midst of an upheaval...too many other good options.

Does anyone have any updates on the status of the chef - is he going to Myth? Is he staying? Help, please.

[Carolyn Tillie]

Does anyone have any updates on the status of the chef - is he going to Myth? Is he staying?  Help, please.

No one is talking yet. I would suggest making some back-up reservations somewhere (although 'twere it me, I would make different reservations entirely as my meal there was memorable more for its misses than its hits).

Consider Quince, Manresa, or Coi for alternatives.

[weinoo]

Does anyone have any updates on the status of the chef - is he going to Myth? Is he staying?  Help, please.

No one is talking yet. I would suggest making some back-up reservations somewhere (although 'twere it me, I would make different reservations entirely as my meal there was memorable more for its misses than its hits).

Consider Quince, Manresa, or Coi for alternatives.

Thanks for the update, Carolyn...since we've already eaten at Quince, popped into Coi on our last trip and don't want to go to Los Gatos, what else would you add to the top 5 in the city itself?

Do you think your experience was an anomaly at RC? This thread seems to lean positive.

[Carlsbad]

Take a look at Acquerello. We've gone there for at least four anniversaries, and have always enjoyed it.

[melkor]

A bit of a bump here...my wife and I will be in SF next month for a long weekend celebrating our 10th anniversary.  I've made reservations here, figuring it will be a great meal and a perfect celebratory dinner.  However, I'm also worried about the status of Chef Siegel, and the rumors swirling about (i.e. he's departing for Myth).  I'd prefer not to eat here if it's in the midst of an upheaval...too many other good options.

Does anyone have any updates on the status of the chef - is he going to Myth? Is he staying?  Help, please.

Keep your reservation at the Ritz.

[Carolyn Tillie]

The timing could be critical, but some time next month, Laurent Manrique is going to be re-opening The Fifth Floor with a new menu and *that* might be the next great place for high-end in the city.

From others' accounts, I believe my mediocre meal could be an anomaly but I have not wanted to spend the money to go back and find out. I suppose I should but knowing that Siegel will be leaving for Myth makes it entirely suspect to me from the get-go. Who knows who will be cooking that evening... I imagine it will be just fine, but possibly not as good as it could be.

If that type of meal is what you are looking for (multi-course, intriguing combinations, etc.). It probably is the best probable choice. Its just sad for me to know that it should be better.

[ulterior epicure]

From others' accounts, I believe my mediocre meal could be an anomaly but I have not wanted to spend the money to go back and find out. I suppose I should but knowing that Siegel will be leaving for Myth makes it entirely suspect to me from the get-go. Who knows who will be cooking that evening... I imagine it will be just fine, but possibly not as good as it could be.

If that type of meal is what you are looking for (multi-course, intriguing combinations, etc.). It probably is the best probable choice. Its just sad for me to know that it should be better.

Carolyn, you're not alone in being "anomolous." I found my meal at The Dining Room to be good, but thoroughly unexciting. I agree with the last sentence of your above post.

[weinoo]

Thanks for those replies, the last sentence tells all....a thoroughly unexciting meal, that should be better, means we'll probably go somewhere else. We're never locked in on what we think our meal has to be. Multi-course, intriguing combos, etc. are all wonderful, but we just like really good food in a nice setting with good service - easy enough.

[ulterior epicure]

... but we just like really good food in a nice setting with good service - easy enough.

Don't get me wrong - I think The Dining Room can fulfill all of your criteria (as stated here). My meal (nearly two years ago) was technically pretty solid, but otherwise, not very memorable. The only thing that floats to the top of my memory about that meal was the cheese course and the olive oil they used on my salad.

[Carolyn Tillie]

Weinoo, I have yet to go to the Michael Mina establishment here in San Francisco (I was disappointed in his SoCal venue but I know he is rarely there while he is located here) but it is moving up on my list of must-try places. That might be a consideration for you and am sorry I don't have first-hand on his San Francisco restaurant.

[ulterior epicure]

Technically not in SF, but pretty darned close: what about Chez Panisse? I know it may not afford the refinement of The Dining Room and its ilk, but honestly, my dinner at Chez Panisse bested my dinners at The Dining Room and TFL, and rivalled ame.

What about ame?

Edited to correct punctuation.

Edited by ulterior epicure, 23 January 2008 - 02:00 PM.

[weinoo]

Technically not in SF, but pretty darned close: what about Chez Panisse?  I know it may not afford the refinement of The Dining Room and its ilk, but honestly, my dinner at Chez Panisse bested my dinners at The Dining Room and TFL, and rivalled ame. 

What about ame?

Edited to correct punctuation.

Yeah, we've had great meals at Chez Panisse (and Cafe F, where we'll probably end up for lunch one of the days we're west coasted).

Thanks for the ame tip - gotta go find some more info on it...

[ulterior epicure]

FWIW, here are my photos and caption write-ups of ame. Remember, this meal was from early summer 2006.

[Carolyn Tillie]

Concur with Amé -- probably a much better suggestion than Mina. And I have to say that my recent Chez Panisse experience was one of the worst I have ever had...

[kai-m]

Since Iam not even american I can not come up with any suggestions - but still I want to mention that our dinner at Ame (in early summer 2006) was one of our most disappointing dining experiences *ever*, not only regarding most of the dishes, but also in terms of service and atmosphere...(but I know that many experienced egulleters would disagree, that's why we went...).

Best
kai

[tupac17616]

there are few, if any occasions, i can think of for which i would not choose manresa to celebrate, but that's just me. hell, i find myself inventing occasions just to keep going back there again and again.
that said, although you've already been to quince, i have a hard time believing that putting yourselves in chef tusk's hands and asking to have the kitchen cook for you would lead to anything less than a very good meal.
chez panisse, too, can be great, though sometimes a bit inconsistent. ue's comment that it bested tfl for him made me smile. that's high praise. i do agree that sometimes chez panisse's highs can be very high. certainly a different type of meal than that offered by some of the other places mentioned, though, as you well know from experience. in a way, it depends what kind of place you are after this time.
sorry that i can't be of more help. but i've not yet been to some of the sf big name places (dining room, mina, danko, though i had great cheese and desserts at bar of the latter). and i've not yet made it over to ame or coi, though they're both on my to-do list. that place i mentioned in the first sentence above keeps getting in the way!