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Cooking & Curing from "Charcuterie": Part 1

Charcuterie Cookbook

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#31 FoodMan

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Posted 20 December 2005 - 02:55 PM

Christmas eve dinner this year is charcuterie centric. We will have, the "Marjoram Kielbasa", "Turkey sausage with tart cherries" and hopefully the "Roasted Duck Roulade".

I am planning on making the duck roulade soon, Michael will it stay in the fridge for a couple of days or should I wait to make it the night before?

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After it's cooled overnight, rewrap it well and it will be good for several days in the fridge.

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Oh, sorry for the confusion, I actually meant can I stuff it and keep it well wrapped uncooked in the fridge? I want to roast it and serve it on Saturday.

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#32 jackal10

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Posted 20 December 2005 - 03:17 PM

"mortadella" from the book.
Not like any Mortadella I know, but definitely tasty and with a good texture.
Its come out white rather than pink, despite 3grams of Saltpetre.
There is a typo in the amounts - my scales think 1/2 cup of dried milk powder is 35gm not 70gm

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Edited by jackal10, 20 December 2005 - 03:18 PM.


#33 FoodMan

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Posted 20 December 2005 - 03:20 PM

It definitly does look good but not like any Mortadella I have seen. Does the recipe call for saltpeter or Sodium Nitrate? Maybe that is why.

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#34 Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 21 December 2005 - 08:14 AM

Christmas eve dinner this year is charcuterie centric. We will have, the "Marjoram Kielbasa", "Turkey sausage with tart cherries" and hopefully the "Roasted Duck Roulade".

I am planning on making the duck roulade soon, Michael will it stay in the fridge for a couple of days or should I wait to make it the night before?

View Post


After it's cooled overnight, rewrap it well and it will be good for several days in the fridge.

View Post


Oh, sorry for the confusion, I actually meant can I stuff it and keep it well wrapped uncooked in the fridge? I want to roast it and serve it on Saturday.

View Post


my mistake, was thinking galantine. I think you could make it thursday and keep it cold and well wrapped till saturday without compromising it.

#35 Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 21 December 2005 - 09:52 AM

"mortadella" from the book.
Not like any Mortadella I know, but definitely tasty and with a good texture.
Its come out white rather than pink, despite 3grams of Saltpetre.
There is a typo in the amounts - my scales think 1/2 cup of dried milk powder is 35gm not 70gm

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Brian rescaled the milk powder and he gets 54 grams so it's in between! we're reevaluating if we need to make a fix. any of those quantities should not effect the sausage greatly. milk powder helps a sausage to retain moisture, bind it, and adds a little flavor.

sausage does look pale. pork used? looks like veal. right quantity of pink salt?

#36 jackal10

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Posted 21 December 2005 - 10:24 AM

Shoulder (and some belly) of gloucester old spot.
3gm of saltpetre

#37 peppyre

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Posted 21 December 2005 - 11:06 AM

Wow!! The images just make me want this book more. It is on my Christmas wish list and I hope someone pays attention to it.

Growing up in a family of butchers, (long since passed or out of the business) I have always wanted to make sausages, salami's, cured meats. My grandma made so much salami during her time at the butcher shop that she can't touch the stuff now.

Great stuff, I can't wait for more.

#38 Dave Weinstein

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Posted 22 December 2005 - 02:46 PM

Pictures to follow later...

Sichuan Bacon

1.25-1.75lbs Pork Belly
1.5 TBS Basic Cure
1 TBS Sichuan Peppercorns
1 TBS Lapsang Souchong Tea

Instructions

Apply the cure (I've taken to sprinkling .5 TBS in a glass pan, placing the meat skin side down over it, then adding the 1 TBS evenly to the meat side, but the pieces done that way are still curing) to the bacon.

Coat the meat side with peppercorns and tea leaves.

At this point, since I have a vacuum sealer, I put the meat into the bag, and after getting any leftover spice blend in as well, seal it, and start it curing.

Cure and roast as normal.

Notes

I'm still not sure if the cure amount is correct for pieces this size, but since it is a savory bacon, I'm not terribly worried if it is a little salty.

The first piece didn't last very long, I have two more batches in the fridge, one ready for roasting on Monday, the next ready next Thursday.

--Dave

#39 melkor

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Posted 22 December 2005 - 11:58 PM

So Michael, am I going to die when I eat the saucisson sec we made using duck instead of pork?

#40 FoodMan

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Posted 23 December 2005 - 11:05 PM

prepared the Duck rollade today and it is ready to be roasted for Xmas eve dinner.

I twas time consuming to remove the skin intact, but after 45 minutes of surgical knife work It came off all in one piece and with no holes in it. "scraping the fat off" the partially frozed skin was no easy feat either. It was more like cutting the fat off, and I did not get as much as I expected too.

My only concern is that when I tasted the filling using the quenelle method (wrap a small piece in plastic wrap and poach it), it tasted a little oversalted. I am hoping this will not be a problem tomorrow, maybe the large chunks of breast mixed in will offset the saltiness. Will report more later after trying everything.

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Naked Duck

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#41 Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 24 December 2005 - 11:07 AM

So Michael, am I going to die when I eat the saucisson sec we made using duck instead of pork?

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as long as you cured it right and it dries thoroughly, shouldn't be a problem. As always, use your common sense when evaluating the finished product!

#42 Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 24 December 2005 - 11:09 AM

prepared the Duck rollade today and it is ready to be roasted for Xmas eve dinner.

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Looks purdy! Nice job.

#43 melkor

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Posted 24 December 2005 - 05:29 PM

So Michael, am I going to die when I eat the saucisson sec we made using duck instead of pork?

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as long as you cured it right and it dries thoroughly, shouldn't be a problem. As always, use your common sense when evaluating the finished product!

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So nothing poultry specific to worry about, good I checked that out after making them. :rolleyes:

If they start glowing in the dark, smelling like kim chi, or growing a beard I think I'll start to worry. This is the 3rd day they've been hanging and they are coming along nicely. I'm really enjoying working with this book, it's an excellent resource.

#44 theabroma

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Posted 25 December 2005 - 07:29 AM

I'm off to the bookstore, and then to my butcher's as soon as they re-open their doors.

Elie, how have you dealt w/the air drying issue? I remember using electric fans in Mexico, but we were in the mountains, and the air was dry ... so that doesn't count. That has been a problem for me for some time. Keep thinking West Texas may be the answer ....


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#45 FoodMan

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Posted 26 December 2005 - 10:54 PM

Unfortunatly the Bresaola did not work out. A couple of days ago all was well, but today it has three kinds of mold, mostly the powdery harmless stuff, but also the shaggy and the green variety :sad:. I am thinking next time I will be drying it in the fridge instead.

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#46 FoodMan

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Posted 26 December 2005 - 10:59 PM

All dishes worked out great fon Xmas eve. The roulade was a big success and not salty at all. It looks pretty damn impressive as well.
Posted Image


The other two recipes I made for that dinner were the Turkey-cherry sausage and the Marjoram Kielbasa. Both were hits (Too many things going on and a couple of them split due to my lack of attention), but especially the Kielbasa. That margoram taste really makes it special and distinctive. the top three are turkey, the rest are the Kielbasa.
Posted Image
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E. Nassar
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#47 melkor

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 10:01 AM

Over the last two days we made the chicago style hot dogs.
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here they are resting in the fridge overnight
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Smoking in the rube goldberg cold smoker that uses 2/3s of a weber smoky mountain, a gas grill, and some dryer duct. A pasta drying rack and some duct tape is surprisingly effective as a place to hang 3 pounds of meat.
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poaching after they came out of the smoker

I used mesquite lump mixed with hickory chunks to smoke them - the flavor was excellent but the dogs had a texture I wasn't fond of. In a bun they are fine but on their own they are too soft. I suspect the 5 minute paddling time incorporated too much air into the forcemeat - next time I think we'll stop after 2 minutes.

#48 FoodMan

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 10:06 AM

Melkor, that looks great! and I love your "smoker". Gives me a great idea how to create my own cold-smoker. So, thanks.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

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contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com


#49 melkor

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 08:37 PM

I had mixed success with the pastrami recipe in the book. The brine after 4 days hadn't fully cured the 5 pound brisket (flat only) that we used for the recipe. That wasn't clear until after steaming the smoked pastrami, although it was only one small section (maybe 1"x.5") - but since the instructions say to cure for 3 days I'm surprised that happened. Anyway, the cure is too sweet for my taste; before steaming the meat tastes seriously sweet - after steaming it's just a little sweet. Next time I'll keep the brown sugar and ditch the white sugar.
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We only steamed enough of the meat for two sandwiches. This being the thinner end it's drier than I'd like. I started the smoker with the water tray full of ice - the smoker was able to hold 150*F for the first 3 hours of the smoke, after which it gradually rose to 225. The meat hit 150*F in about 10 hours and took on a very nice heavy smoke.

#50 Chris Amirault

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 08:21 AM

I've been making some sausages from Charcuterie over in the sausage cook-off, and they've been turning out great. Going to be starting some curing soon. What brands and on-line suppliers of saltpetre do people recommend?
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#51 jeniac42

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 12:25 PM

It looks like Amazon is again shipping this book within 24 hours, so I'm about to order it and join the ranks in this thread.
Jennie

#52 melkor

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Posted 01 January 2006 - 12:37 PM

I've been making some sausages from Charcuterie over in the sausage cook-off, and they've been turning out great. Going to be starting some curing soon.  What brands and on-line suppliers of saltpetre do people recommend?

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I ordered both the #1 and #2 cures from the sausage maker in Buffalo NY. They shipped quickly, had reasonable prices, and everything showed up in one piece.

#53 Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 01:19 PM

I've been making some sausages from Charcuterie over in the sausage cook-off, and they've been turning out great. Going to be starting some curing soon.  What brands and on-line suppliers of saltpetre do people recommend?

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butcher-packer.com has the best price, $1.50 per pound (vs $8.99 per pound at sausage maker).

please remember that you are using sodium nitrite (#1) and for dry-cured sausage sodium nitrate (#2). always follow instructions and warnings with this stuff. salt peter (potassium nitrate) has not been used for a long time in this country.

#54 Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 01:28 PM

the dogs had a texture I wasn't fond of.  In a bun they are fine but on their own they are too soft. I suspect the 5 minute paddling time incorporated too much air into the forcemeat - next time I think we'll stop after 2 minutes.

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I know what you mean about the texture. It doesn't sound like a broken forcemeat. with home equipment, it's hard to get that really tight almost rubbery feel you get from vienna hot dogs. they use high powered choppers. Next time you do an emulsified, try reducing the water and the fat a little. Sorry about the pastrami--that sounds strange because i haven't had a problem with the sweetness. I have on occasion with big muscles that the cure hasn't penetrated to the center, even though it's been the same size of others that cured perfectly. Part of why Brian likes to say "practicing" charcuterie.

please take note of the pepper-coriander crust--it's an extraordinary combo seasoning that goes well on many things. You can do turkey galantine and coat it with this mixture. You could can make duck pastrami, or a cured salmon using this seasoning (david burke is the first guy i heard of selling salmon pastrami).

#55 melkor

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Posted 02 January 2006 - 07:06 PM

The sweetness in the pastrami isn't by any means offensive, its just sweeter than you'd get at Katz's - reducing or removing the white sugar will certainly take care of it. You think the texture problem with the hot dogs is from using too much fat not too much air? The forcemeat almost doubled in volume after 5 minutes of paddling. The pepper coriander crust is indeed an excellent rub - for pastrami I use some brown and yellow mustard seed in there also.

#56 Chris Amirault

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Posted 03 January 2006 - 12:44 PM

I've been making some sausages from Charcuterie over in the sausage cook-off, and they've been turning out great. Going to be starting some curing soon.  What brands and on-line suppliers of saltpetre do people recommend?

View Post

butcher-packer.com has the best price, $1.50 per pound (vs $8.99 per pound at sausage maker).

please remember that you are using sodium nitrite (#1) and for dry-cured sausage sodium nitrate (#2). always follow instructions and warnings with this stuff. salt peter (potassium nitrate) has not been used for a long time in this country.

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Thanks, Michael -- and my duh. I knew this, but my fingers did not; they wanted to type the Britishism "-petre" I think. :blink:

Here's a live link to the Butcher and Packer website, where a pound each of DC #1 and #2 costs $10, including shipping (and on which you can also pick up a copy of Charcuterie for $25).
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#57 Pallee

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Posted 06 January 2006 - 12:57 PM

My neighbor gave me 4 ducks he'd hunted a couple days ago. He doesn't hang them, so they tend to be tough. I figured sausage was the way to go, but I just got a beautiful terrine I was dying to try out. So while I didn't follow an exact recipe from the book, I used the techinques and went from there. I have cherries I put up in Maker's Mark in June and used them as part of the internal garnish, along with pistachios, herbs and seared duck breast. Gave part of it to my hunter neighbor to encourage more of his gifts. Turned out very nice.

As soon as my stuff comes from Butcher and Packer, I'm making the pepperone. I happen to have a wine cellar with the perfect temp and humidity this time of year. Can't wait!

So far I've given 2 friends their own copy. There should be some sort of "Buy 3 get one free" offer!

#58 Doc-G

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Posted 08 January 2006 - 08:46 PM

QUOTE(melkor @ Dec 28 2005, 05:01 PM)
the dogs had a texture I wasn't fond of.  In a bun they are fine but on their own they are too soft. I suspect the 5 minute paddling time incorporated too much air into the forcemeat - next time I think we'll stop after 2 minutes.
*

QUOTE(Michael Ruhlman @ Jan 3 2006, 06:28 AM)
I know what you mean about the texture. It doesn't sound like a broken forcemeat. with home equipment, it's hard to get that really tight almost rubbery feel you get from vienna hot dogs. they use high powered choppers. Next time you do an emulsified, try reducing the water and the fat a little.
*


I'm not sure if this has been said previously and I've only just ordered Michaels book over the net so I'm not sure on what the recipe says but another way of getting a texture more similar to the emulsion sausages is to put the meat through the mincer 3 or 4 times, maybe up to 5 times. I know this is time consuming but that is what some butchers here in Australia do to avoid spending significant amounts of money on bowl cutters. You will not get a perfect emulsion but it will be significantly better than one grind and a mix. The other thing is to keep the mix very cold.

If I haven't repeated something someone has already said, I hope this is of help!

Cheers,

Doc-G

Edited by Doc-G, 08 January 2006 - 08:52 PM.


#59 Bombdog

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Posted 13 January 2006 - 04:22 PM

Once again, my appologies for not getting the pictures...but I just pulled the herb brined turkey breast from the Bradley Smoker today....Wow...I never, ever, would have believed that turkey could taste like this. What a wonderful treat!

I was hooked just reading the book, but now I'm REALLY hooked.

This is great fun!
Dave Valentin
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"Got what backwards?" I ask.
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#60 Anna N

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Posted 16 January 2006 - 04:18 AM

Here's hoping someone can help me. I have Charcuterie (what a marvellous book!) and fresh pork belly is on sale this week so I thought I would try my hand at some bacon. However, the only thing I could source locally that approaches "pink salt" is a package of READYCURE. The ingredients are: Salt, Sodium Nitrite, Sodium Bicarbonate.

The instructions on the package (which must be refrigerated??) are as follows:

For pumping, use 12Kg TO 100 litres of water or 12lbs to 10 galls water. Pump 15-20%. For cover pickle, use 4Kg to 100 litres of water plus 6Kg of salt or 4lbs to 10 gallons of water plus 6 lbs salt. For dry cure, use 2lbs to 100 lbs of meat or 2Kg to 100 Kg meat.

Anyone know if I can follow the instructions in Charcuterie and treat this as pink salt?

Would I need to adjust the proportions in the book?
Why does it have to be refrigerated? How long is it good for if refrigerated?

Many thanks.
Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

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