
With one step into Robuchon at the Mansion and its swank art deco interior design by Pierre-Yves Rochon, one is taken far away from the hustle and bustle of the MGM Grand’s casino.

The Bar is located immediately to the left of the greeting area.

Main dining room

The private dining room looks out into the garden.

The garden dining area is located to the right of the main dining room.
I sat in the garden dining room and was presented with the menus.




I could as easily have been seated in any of the “Palace” hotels in Paris. The meal started with an offer of champagne and I tried a glass by Bruno Paillard, a small producer and friend of JR’s. Robuchon’s cuisine is about the best ingredients, and the menu is created with the help of the finest purveyors in the world. No expense is spared to bring the best to the plate, no matter how difficult it is to procure. An example of this is the butter; Eschire butter from France, it is sent fresh from France on a plane rather than shipping it frozen. Chef Le Tohic says that the butter “loses a little bit by freezing it”, and they would never do that. All I can say is that the butter is the best that I have ever tasted in my life!

The bread cart was more spectacular than any that I have seen in Paris and the quality was PHENOMENAL. This came as no surprise, as The Bakery Chef was trained in Paris.


The amuse, a very tasty “caviar” of apple with vodka granite, was surprising in it’s use of modern technique in the dish. Clearly Robuchon has lost none of his magic, but rather has kept his finger on the pulse of today’s culinary culture.

La Pomme: Caviar of apple finished with vodka graniteThe combination of the apple and vodka granite opened the pores in your mouth and cleaned the palate and makes a very tasty combination.
The apple caviar is made by combining a mixture of apple juice and sodium alginate and putting drops of this solution into a calcium chloride bath to form the caviar.




Calcium Chloride



Ready for service



2nd Course: Le Caviar Oscietre
Oscetra caviar with haricots verts salad, lemon grass

This was one of my favorites of the night. I have not eaten Haricot Vert that was cooked better than this!! The Haricot Vert were dressed with sliced Parmigiano Reggiano, shallots and eggs mimosa (sieved egg white and yolk). The combination of caviar, crème fraiche and the Haricot Vert was heavenly.
3rd Course: Le Foie Gras
Foie Gras, mille-feuille of smoked eel with oriental flavors
The craftsmanship of the kitchen was front and center in this dish, and was one of my favorites of the night. The mille-feuille was perfectly assembled. The combination of the smoked eel, foie gras, and black truffle crème fraiche was decadent. Some of the inspiration of this dish came from Chef Tomonori Danzaki.
4th Course: Le Thon
Big Eye Tuna tartar, cold red bell pepper confit with bergamot and prosciutto
Robuchon has a home in Alicante, Spain where he spends a few months a year and this dish shows the Spanish influence in his cuisine. This is the first time that I have had tuna tartar with a Spanish flavor set and I loved it. The tartar was topped with a quail egg and and the yellow sauce on the plate is yellow pepper coulis.
Below are photos of this dish being plated. The attention to detail in Robuchon’s dishes is astounding.

The tiny matchsticks of prosciutto are cut every day.


No shaky hands in Robuchon’s kitchen!

The yellow pepper coulis being plated
5th Course: Le Truffe
Truffle in a hot pastry, onions, and smoked ham

I ate this in the height of truffle season and it was marvelous. Le Truffe was another of my favorite courses of the evening. This was essentially a black truffle pizzetta, and only JR serves up the truffles like this without abandon. Robuchon at the Mansion was going through 10 kilos of black truffle a week; YES A WEEK, during Truffle season. The shipments are so enormous that some of the Chefs in the kitchen have pictures of the truffle delivery as their screen saver on their phones.
6th Course: Le Parmigiano Reggiano
Parmesan and vegetable consommé with black truffle
The dish is presented covered.


The cover is lifted to reveal the black truffle speckled froth
At the bottom of the bowl was parmesan custard in a sweet onion veloute under an onion froth that is speckled with black truffle. We were instructed to eat the custard and the consommé together as one bite.
7th Course: L’Epinard
Mille Feuille of spinach, truffles and tofu, parsley coulis, Parmesan Tuille, Comte Foam

Tofu is not something that I seek out, but this was very good.
8th Course: Les Aromates
Medley of aromates in a mild spicy broth


This light chicken consommé contained ginger, herbs, diced tomatoes and noodles. I enjoyed the course and it was an excellent prelude to what came next.
9th Course: La Grenouille
Frog leg fritter with baby chanterelles

The finger bowl that accompanied this course
The frog leg fritter was amazing. It was so delicate and delicious with garlic and parsley coulis in the middle of the plate for dipping. This was one of my all time favorite frog leg preparations.
10th Course: L’Amadai
Amadai in a lily bulb broth
Amadai is Japanese snapper cooked scale on placed in a lily bulb broth topped with baby leeks. The fish was cooked perfectly with nicely crisped skin.
11th Course: Le Turbot
Roasted turbot “on the bone” with celery and truffle stew
The course was presented like this.

The turbot is from Brittany cooked on the bone with celeriac, truffle vinaigrette fingerling potatoes. The components of the dish complemented each other well. This was a great dish.
12th Course: Le Homard de Bretagne
Brittany lobster under a disappearing saffron hostie in a seafood bouillon
The Brittany lobster is under the hostie that is made from foie gras butter and mineral water.

The seafood bouillon is then poured in and the hostie melts


The rosemary twig that is wrapped up into a broom is then swirled in the cup. The rosemary twigs are wrapped up everyday before service.
The foie gras butter with the lobster makes this a luxurious broth.
13th Course: Le Canard
Duck confit with potatoes, truffled cappuccino


Hidden below the potato foam- Robuchon’s Pommes Puree and duck confit. Does it get any better???
If you have not tasted Robuchon’s Pommes Puree then it is hard to imagine heaven in a mashed potato, but believe me, this is it! This was so good. A lot of “yum’s” took place while eating this dish.
14th Course: L’Epeautre
Sault wild oatmeal, gold leaf, truffle vinaigrette


This wild oat meal from Sault was kind of like savory oatmeal.
Cheese Course:

Outstanding cheese selection all served at the proper temperature and ripeness. The highlight was a Vacherin-Mont D’Or {Haut Doubs}
15th Course: Le Coing (The Card)
Quince compote Amaretto, ginger ice cream, yogurt and Champagne Mousse

In this dish, the skill of Chef Guechida was evident. Champagne yogurt mousse with pearls of milk chocolate, green apple sorbet and two white chocolate cards that sandwich quince and apple compote. Eating the green apple sorbet was like biting into a green apple. The craftsmanship of the white chocolate cards was perfect.
16th Course: Le Chocolat
Warm chocolate, coffee perfumed cocoa morsels
The cup was placed down and then a warm chocolate sauce was poured over to melt in.

Very rich chocolate and the perfect way to end the meal…. but did someone mention
Mignardises?

This was grander than any Mignardise cart in Paris. The table was awestruck.

On the plate from left to right, top to bottom: raspberry macaron, pistachio financier with amarena cherry, speculos cookie with hazelnut filling, passion fruit filled chocolate (or possibly pistachio), soft caramel, caramel filled chocolate, cannelé, opera cake, and mendiant (chocolate with dried fruit filling).
Other items on the cart: chocolate covered almonds, coconut macaroons, passion fruit pate de fruit, white chocolate/coconut truffles, dark chocolate truffles, mint chocolate sticks, crisp meringues with crushed French pralines, crisp sake meringues, orange macarons, red wine tuiles, cocoa nib chocolate tuiles, financiers, almond nougat, chocolate nougat, green apple marshmallow, black truffle dusted rochers, lemon cream filled chocolate cups.
The quality of the mignardises was great, but I could only try a few and dream about the next time...
Robuchon at the Mansion was better than any 3 star dining I have enjoyed in Paris. This was an amazing meal and I look forward to witnessing the evolution of the restaurant. The front of the house led by Loic Launay is attentive and informed without being intrusive. Chef Claude Le Tohic leads an impressive brigade of chefs in delivering the Robuchon experience to the American diner. Gamal Aziz deserves high praise for luring one of the great Chefs of all time to the United States. If the initial reaction to Robuchon at the Mansion is any indicator, then the sky is the limit!
Robuchon’s restaurants fall into three categories:
Fine Dining
China- Robuchon A Galera
Tokyo - Chateau Restaurant Joel Robuchon
Las Vegas - Robuchon at the Mansion
Middle Tier
Monaco - Joel Robuchon Monte Carlo
Paris - La Table de Joel Robuchon
Informal
Atelier - Paris, Tokyo, Las Vegas and New York.
Edited by molto e, 05 July 2006 - 04:21 PM.