302 replies to this topic

[paulraphael]

No preserves ... that's the Alton Brown trick, right? The secret there is pectin, which works as a stabilizer (you could also just buy some pectin).

I ended up dealing with three different issues: body, stability (which basically means resistance to an icy texture, when it's fresh and especially when it's been in the freezer a few days), and freezing point suppression.

Body and freezing point suppression are handled really well by adding nonfat dry milk. I resisted this, because I always thought the stuff was gross, but when I saw pastry chefs like Pierre Herme and Michael Laiskonis using it with abandon, I gave in. It works brilliantly. A small amount of alcohol also helps with the freezing point.

For stability, the easy answer is to buy commercial ice cream stabilizer. This stuff is some blend of natural gums like guar, carageenan, and locust bean, and it's simple to use. I wanted to do it from scratch, though, so I wouldn't be dependent on a commercial product. Rather than using gums, which work in such tiny quantities that they're hard to measure for small batches, I ended up using a combination of the two oldest stabilizers: gelatin and corn starch. These are used in very small amounts, so there's no effect on the flavor, and the effect on the texture is a small but positive one. With the right amounts, ice cream lasts over a week in the fridge without deflating or getting icy.

Ice cream is such a personal thing ... everyone has their own idea of the perfect texture. The great thing about deconstructing the ingredients is that you can create your own perfect version. If you like the taste of a French custard base, your project will be easy. It's not my cup of tea, though, so I had to jump through a few hoops.

[tim]

HI,

I have been looking for a coconut sherbet/ice cream recipe. Andie Paysinger has a nice recipe for coconut sorbet in RecipeGullet that uses coconut milk, condensed milk and heavy cream/Mexican crema. Link to Coconut Sorbet

I have a few questions about the recipe and would appreciate your thoughts.

• The recipe calls for boiling the coconut milk and condensed milk. The cream is added just before placing in an ice bath. What is the purpose of the heating? I do understand that heating the dairy products is done to denatu;re proteins but don't know the effect on the coconut milk and condensed milk.
  
• Would it be appropriate to substitute sweetened coconut cream (Coco Lopez) for the condensed milk?

Are their any other recommendations for this ice cream/sherbet?

Thanks,

Tim

[TeakettleSlim]

Made a very nice curried brown butter cashew ice cream yesterday-- 4 Tbs butter, browned, then 1 Tbs curry powder toasted in the butter. Whisked in 1 c. each milk and cream, 4oz brown sugar, then tempered in 1/3 c. egg (from carton-- it's what I had). Whisked in 1/3 c. cashew butter and another 1/3 c or so of cream. It was very thick-- when it melts, it's almost more of a pudding. The cashew butter was a last-minute improvisation. If I make it again, I'll reduce both egg and cashew butter a bit. But the flavor is perfect. Made a burnt sugar coconut brittle to go with it. Yeah, I'm proud of myself. ;)

I see that many ice cream recipes call for heating the milk, then once you've got the eggs and sugar and whatnot mixed in, stirring in some cream. What's the reason for adding cream at the end instead of throwing it all into the pan at the beginning?