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"Chocolate Desserts" by Pierre Herme (Part 1)

Chocolate Dessert Cookbook

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#91 kthull

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 10:47 AM

My question to all of you is: what do you do with all this stuff you're baking?! Do you have nightly dinner parties or something, during which you unload all these baked goodies on your lucky friends?

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My intentions are always to share with the neighbors. However...

#92 tan319

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 11:13 AM

The Valrhona Guanaja is going to be darker, for sure.
Also, if you're not taking your sugar far enough, you might get a lighter color.
Great idea/suggestion on Patricks part to add the lemon zest last, to get more of the flavor.
If you have a microplaner, and feel ballsy enough, zest your lemon right over the mix next time.
The oils that come off that lemon right at the moment of zesting will really get in there.
Maybe a small drop of lemon oil (Williams Sonoma, Linens & Things, those types of places) would be interesting.
Oh, I've also been wondering about where all of these goodies end up, almost as much as I'm curious about where everyone gets the time to make all of this fine food.
Great stuff!....
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#93 lemon curd

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 11:29 AM

I've included a picture of my caramels (my very first time with IMG :biggrin:). I'll be taking them to a Christmas party this afternoon, along with some cookies from the Vancouver eGullet cookie exchange. I like the idea of adding the lemon zest much closer to the end. Based on the posts previous to starting my caramels, I added the zest of a whole lemon (instead of 1/2 as per the recipe) and it made no difference, as the lemon flavour is not apparent. However, the aroma of the sugar/corn syrup/lemon zest while cooking was very nice!

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By the way my coworker also lent me Pierre Herme's "La Patisserie de Pierre Hermes" which is an absolutely beautiful book. For home use, it's one of those books where you would tend to look at the pictures and read the recipes, as few of us would have the specialized equipment and ingredients at home (but you never know with eGulleters :biggrin: ).
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#94 SethG

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 11:30 AM

I'm bringing my caramels (which, AHEM, look great, don't they, people?) to my in-laws today, and the remainder I'll bring to work tomorrow.

I brought my chocolate/hazelnut sables to work the day after Thanksgiving and they were gone, it seemed, in seconds.

The tart I made last week was intended to be shared with some friends of ours, but they canceled when their son got sick. Then my wife had to stay late at work and I was left to confront it alone! I managed.

Edit: Nice work, lemon curd! I didn't see your caramels before I posted.

Edited by SethG, 12 December 2004 - 11:31 AM.

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but we like hot butter on our breakfast toast!"

#95 tan319

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 11:38 AM

Those caramels look great, lemoncurd!
RE:La Patisserie de Pierre Hermes":
You guys should start saving the money (if you need to, that is) for THE BOOK , you know you want it! :laugh:
No, really, everyone's work looks so good out of the "Chocolate Desserts" book that the pro book would probably really prove inspirational.
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#96 Patrick S

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 12:30 PM

Seth G, of course your caramels look gorgeous. LemonCurd, yours look gorgeous as well.

Soubaicecream:
Patrick S, your caramels look so beautiful *and* scrumptious. I wish I could join in this very fun thread! Am thoroughly enjoying the pictures as well as everyone's enthusiasm.

My question to all of you is: what do you do with all this stuff you're baking?! Do you have nightly dinner parties or something, during which you unload all these baked goodies on your lucky friends?


Thanks so much for the compliment.

I usually am not able to unload everything I make, but I try. I take some to work with me to give away (my supervisor is a chocoholic, which works out well for me), and on saturday's I usually have a big lunch with my wife's family. I freeze what I can.
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#97 lemon curd

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 01:41 PM

Those caramels look great, lemoncurd!
RE:La Patisserie de Pierre Hermes":
You guys should start saving the money (if you need to, that is) for THE BOOK , you know you want it! :laugh:
No, really, everyone's work looks so good out of the "Chocolate Desserts" book that the pro book would probably really prove inspirational.

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Oh yes I do want it! But at $275 CDN, I definately have to save my pennies (or better yet save my toonies!). A little off topic, but I've also borrowed "Oriol Balaguer Dessert Cuisine" which is another amazing professional book. sigh - someday!
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#98 tan319

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 01:59 PM

Balaguers book is tremendous, right alongside P.H and Frederic Bau.
Money well spent.

Here's a site for him, in case you missed the thread with it from some months ago.

http://oriolbalaguer.com/
I wish PH had a site!
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#99 Sobaicecream

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 10:47 PM

I'm bringing my caramels (which, AHEM, look great, don't they, people?) to my in-laws today, and the remainder I'll bring to work tomorrow.

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SethG, your caramels look very pretty too. :raz:

Admittedly, I really liked the look of Patrick S's earlier caramel shots cause they reminded me of the fresh caramel sold at Grandville Island (anyone from Vancouver??) that I adored when I was a kid--and then I saw a later post explaining that the lighting had made the caramels appear much lighter than they really were...

But of course the darker ones look yummy too, in a different, less nostalgic way.

#100 FoodMan

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Posted 13 December 2004 - 03:34 PM

I love this thread as well, now I really need to get this Herme book. Keep up the good work folks.

Elie

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#101 kthull

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 09:21 AM

We must all be really busy...this thread has grown quiet. I still plan on making the caramels (especially after drooling over all the great looking caramels on this thread), but haven't had the time. May not even get there until after the holidays...we'll see.

But for any of you who managed to get Herme's pro book, I'm going to attempt the pine cone cake for my Christmas Eve/Christmas day dinners. I'll try to post a pic from the book later on. I don't remember any more who gave the link for L'Epicerie but THANKS! I just ordered 3kg of Vahlrona Guanaja feves.

I'll post pics of the final cakes for sure. I'll also try to take some in-progress pics too.

#102 SethG

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 09:26 AM

I'm planning to make something this weekend, and I was toying with the Savarin, but then I was thinking about making something lemony from Sherry Yard instead. I could be convinced to go with Pierre, though. Anybody else?
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#103 momlovestocook

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 09:36 AM

I made the chocolate covered caramel almonds yesterday. I also made the same recipe using peanuts and milk chocolate. It was my first attempt at tempering chocolate. I bought a digital thermometer so hopefully got the temps right for the chocolate. Whether or not the chocolate was perfectly tempered, they taste pretty good. They are Christmas presents for my dd's bus driver so hopefully she will like them(goody bag includes, hot chocolate mix, homemade marshmallows, nuts and just made some caramel popcorn).
Not sure what I'll try next. Next baking project is probably a gingerbread house to make with the kids next week.
okay, I'll try to add some pictures :hmmm:
First is the caramelized almonds

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and then covered with chocolate
Posted Image


Sandra
ps we are going to two different meals for Christmas and no one wants me to bring anything-really wanted to make something from the book to WOW my relatives. May just have to make the Faubourg Pave anyway. :biggrin:

Edited by momlovestocook, 16 December 2004 - 11:07 AM.


#104 SethG

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 09:41 AM

I made the chocolate covered caramel almonds yesterday.  I also made the same recipe using peanuts and milk chocolate... 

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Let's see a pic, mom! (Edit: Thanks for the pics! Those look tasty.)

...  ps we are going to two different meals for Christmas and no one wants me to bring anything-really wanted to make something from the book to WOW my relatives.  May just have to make the Faubourg Pave anyway. :biggrin:

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I thought about making the Pave this weekend, too, but I don't have the right loaf pan and need to mail-order it. I might do it with an 8x4 pan and have a slightly squatter Pave. What do you pastry geniuses think? Will that work okay?

Edited by SethG, 16 December 2004 - 12:51 PM.

"I don't mean to brag, I don't mean to boast;
but we like hot butter on our breakfast toast!"

#105 Dorie Greenspan

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 12:18 PM

I'm so sorry to be so late adding my praise to that of the many others who've viewed this thread, but as they've all said, "You're amazing!" To a cookie, what you've baked has looked sensational and it's a thrill for me to see these pictures and to hear how happy you've been with Pierre's recipes.

I'm also sorry not to have come onto the thread earlier so that I could have clarified a few points at the start. Not that you really needed me -- you seem to have figured everything out correctly for yourselves.

Working under the better-late-than-never assumption, here are comments on a couple of topics you raised:

o CHOCOLATE PERCENTAGES AND CHOCOLATE CHOICES:

Pierre has preferences for certain brands of chocolate and strong ideas about what chocolates taste best in specific desserts or with particular ingredients. In order to have the recipes in CDBPH produce desserts that come as close as possible to the desserts Pierre produces in Paris, we tested the recipes with -- and specified -- the exact chocolates Pierre uses in his shop. However, the success of a recipe doesn't depend on using the precise chocolate. In fact, you might not even like the chocolate Pierre proposes. Knowing this, Pierre fully expected that home bakers would use the chocolates they liked best, the chocolates they could get and the chocolates that were most affordable. Yes, the desserts made with these chocolates won't be exactly the same as PH's, but if you get the spirit AND you get the taste you like, then all is well with the world.

A final word on chocolate (at least for this post): Just because two chocolates have the same percentage of cocoa solids doesn't mean they are the same chocolate. With chocolate, so much depends on the type of cocoa bean, its quality, drying, roasting and finishing, that just substituting one 70% chocolate for another might not give you the results you want. The best general rule is to use chocolate that has a flavor you like. After all, in most deeply chocolatey chocolate desserts, there is little to interfere with the taste of the chocolate.

o COCOA POWDER

When Albiston made the chocolate loaf with apricots and ginger the question came up about whether the cake looked paler than the cake in the book because of the cocoa. The answer is yes. Valrhona cocoa is very, very dark -- darker than most other cocoas on the market.

o THE 7 1/2-INCH LOAF PAN AND PICTURES OF SKINNY LOAVES

Seth wondered why I didn't adapt PH's recipes that use 7 1/2-inch loaf pans so they would use pans of a more usual size. If I had known it was so difficult to find that size pan I would have made an adaptation. But, because I owned pans that size and had seen them when I was working on The Cook's Catalog, I assumed they were easily findable -- sorry. In general, the hardest recipes to adapt were the loaf cakes because, as K8 noticed in the photos, French loaf pans are thinner and relatively longer than our American pans. While plain loaf cakes are among my favorite sweets, I dreaded each loaf cake that came along because of the difficulty of converting pan size and figuring out how much batter to make.

o MINI CAKES IN DESSERTS BY PIERRE HERME

KTHull said she thought the desserts photographed in DBPH looked like mini versions and, in many cases, she's right. The photographs were done in Paris and the photographer and stylist convinced the art people that the desserts would look best scaled down. And, they do look adorable. But it's a problem for the reader/baker, which is why everyone working on Chocolate was given specific instructions to keep things "real" -- and they did.

Someone said he or she would have liked to have seen all the desserts photographed whole, rather than in wedges or in production, and yet, we've had people tell us they would prefer that none of the desserts be photographed whole because they look too daunting that way. One reader even said she didn't want to see finished photographs because they cramped her decorating style.

I love the photos in the Chocolate book and I love the process by which they were done. All of the desserts were made in the photographer's studio in Paris. Whenever the photographer saw something he liked -- whether it was chocolate being poured or a tart coming off a butter-spattered baking dish -- he'd stop the action and shoot. While we chose which desserts we wanted photographed, we rarely chose how they would be shot. This was the photographer's decision and it was most often made in the heat of the kitchen when inspiration struck.

I'll be traveling in France for the next couple of weeks, so I don't know what my internet availability will be. But I will try to follow the thread and, if there are any questions you think I might be able to answer for you, I'd be happy to try.

Again -- BRAVO!!!

#106 Richard Kilgore

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 12:33 PM

Thanks for the clarifications, Dorie. The book is beautiful, and I am looking forward to doing a few pieces over the next month now that I have aquired most of the chocolate needed.

#107 SethG

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 01:22 PM

Always a treat to see you stop by, Dorie.
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but we like hot butter on our breakfast toast!"

#108 FoodMan

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 03:27 PM

Ok, After reading through this thread I had to get me a copy of the Chocolate Desserts book. Just ordered it and I should have it in a few days. Hopefully I will join in the fun soon.

Elie

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#109 lemon curd

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 08:55 PM

Wow! This is one of the neatest things about eGullet - having feedback right from the source. Thank you so much Dorie for taking the time to read and contribute.

My next project from this book is the Black Forest Cake. I'm planning to serve it mid next week. I'll likely bake the cocoa cake this weekend, freeze it, and finish the rest of the recipe on the day of 'consumption'. I just have to find a good source for the sour cherries.

I've been working from a borrowed copied of 'Chocolate Desserts' but my own copy will arrive in the mail any day now. :biggrin:

BTW - thanks tan319 for the Balaguer website.

Edited by lemon curd, 16 December 2004 - 08:56 PM.

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#110 kthull

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Posted 16 December 2004 - 11:15 PM

How cool! Thanks for the background Dorie! And thank you for bringing Pierre's work to the masses. I owe so much of what I've learned to the Desserts book and am only just starting to have fun with the Chocolate book. (And I hope Santa brings me Paris Sweets!) Enjoy your travels.

Lemon curd, I've been dying to make the Black Forest Cake. I'm at this very moment kicking myself because I was at Trader Joe's today (a long enough trip making it a too infrequent journey for me) and was eyeing the morello cherries and going back and forth on whether to grab some. Alas, I didn't. Oh well, next time. My Mom's birthday is mid-January. Perhaps that'll be the occasion for it.

I spent a good amount of time tonight looking for the decorations to try to mimic those used in the picture for the pine cone cake in "Patisserie". The whole cake is sprayed with chocolate...I've been looking for a reason to use the little Badger 250 I bought almost 3 years ago based on Wendy's recommendation.

Edited by kthull, 17 December 2004 - 07:54 AM.


#111 albiston

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 01:21 AM

Dorie,

thanks for taking the time to answer our questions and clear our doubts. Your and Pierre's book has become one of my favorite, since I've started trying out the recipes. Now I always ask myself why other dessert books lack the thorough care you put in those recipes and explanations :rolleyes: .

lemon curd: Black forest cake sounds great, though I probably won't be making it before New Year's Eve. I've had to take a pause following a few complains from my wife on the constant presence of chocolate desserts at home and what it is doing to her waistline :biggrin: .
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#112 SethG

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 07:58 AM

That "pineapple" looks INSANE. Before I read your post, Kevin, I assumed you'd made it. Can't wait to see yours. (Edit: I see the photo's gone-- anyway, it looked INSANE when I could see it.)

Okay, so I'm undecided. No one seemed at all turned on by my savarin suggestion. I don't think I want to make the Black Forest Cake. We have some friends coming over Sunday, but the Black Forest Cake seems a bit too much of a production for a friendly visit on a Sunday afternoon. So I'm back to the Pave, or (and this just occurred to me) the Tarte Grenobloise.

I'm now thinking I could divide the Pave dough among an 8 x 4 pan, and one or two little mini-loaf pans (little 5-inchers). That way my 8 x 4 Pave won't be too squat. I may have to bake it a touch longer, but everything else should work, right?

Somebody decide for me, please.

Edited by SethG, 17 December 2004 - 08:30 AM.

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but we like hot butter on our breakfast toast!"

#113 Richard Kilgore

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 08:27 AM

Actually I do plan on making the Savarin sometime in the next couple of weeks. I have done nothing yet, because of time constraints and having to pull together tools, pans and chocolate supplies. I had been hunting for the size Savarin mold called for in the book, and finally found one last weekend.

#114 Patrick S

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 09:13 AM

Okay, so I'm undecided.  No one seemed at all turned on by my savarin suggestion.  I don't think I want to make the Black Forest Cake.  We have some friends coming over Sunday, but the Black Forest Cake seems a bit too much of a production for a friendly visit on a Sunday afternoon.  So I'm back to the Pave, or (and this just occurred to me) the Tarte Grenobloise.

I'm now thinking I could divide the Pave dough among an 8 x 4 pan, and one or two little mini-loaf pans (little 5-inchers).  That way my 8 x 4 Pave won't be too squat.  I may have to bake it a touch longer, but everything else should work, right?

Somebody decide for me, please.

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I vote for the Pave. I don't think there's any reason why you couldn't use 8x4 pans in the place of 7.5x3.5. I'd put a bit more than half of your batter in the 8x4.

The only thing I will do differently next time I make it is use more of the caramel soaking syrup. I probably only used half of the syrup I made because I was afraid of making the cocoa cake mushy, but the cake turned out not at all mushy and I wish I had used even more for a bigger caramel taste in the cake.
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#115 kthull

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 09:24 AM

That "pineapple" looks INSANE.  Before I read your post, Kevin, I assumed you'd made it.  Can't wait to see yours.  (Edit:  I see the photo's gone--  anyway, it looked INSANE when I could see it.)

Okay, so I'm undecided.  No one seemed at all turned on by my savarin suggestion.  I don't think I want to make the Black Forest Cake.  We have some friends coming over Sunday, but the Black Forest Cake seems a bit too much of a production for a friendly visit on a Sunday afternoon.  So I'm back to the Pave, or (and this just occurred to me) the Tarte Grenobloise.

I'm now thinking I could divide the Pave dough among an 8 x 4 pan, and one or two little mini-loaf pans (little 5-inchers).  That way my 8 x 4 Pave won't be too squat.  I may have to bake it a touch longer, but everything else should work, right?

Somebody decide for me, please.

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Seth, since that photo was from the book (not mine) I wasn't supposed to post it...sorry for the confusion everyone.

Of course my vote is for the Grenobloise!

#116 lemon curd

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 10:31 AM

Both the Pave and Grenobloise are something I could try in January. I am savarin moldless so I'll pass on the savarin for now.

I'm not quite sure how I'll finish decorating my Black Forest Cake, I don't have a block of dark chocolate - only pistoles, so shavings for the top decoration like the picture might be difficult. :biggrin: I may pipe some dark chocolate decorations for the top (called run outs I think?), and reserve some of the whipping cream as described in the recipe.

I'm interested some time in making the cookies - kthull your hazelnut sables looked awesome! The viennese sables are another type that I'd be interested in baking.

Edited by lemon curd, 17 December 2004 - 10:34 AM.

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#117 Richard Kilgore

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Posted 17 December 2004 - 09:18 PM

What we won't do! I spent at least a couple of hours tonight hunting and gathering the dried stem ginger in syrup. I bought three eight ounce jars, since I think I'll make this cake more than once.

Edited to say, oops! That's enough ginger for about 25 cakes. :shock:

Edited by Richard Kilgore, 17 December 2004 - 10:48 PM.


#118 Richard Kilgore

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Posted 18 December 2004 - 10:18 PM

I made the apricot-ginger cake this morning, and overbaked it noticeably. Not burned, but still overbaked. All or part of that was just lack of experience. I kept tasting for doneness with a knife and it kept on coming out moist and chocolaty. After baking it at least 20 minutes longer than I expected to, I realized (duh) that I must be sticking the knife into a chunk of chocolate. I moved the knife an inch and a half, tried again and it came out clean.

I did it in an Emile Henry earthenware loaf pan that was a little smaller (8 1/2 X 4 1/2) than called for, so I was able to also do a mini-loaf pan. Given how rich this recipe is, the small slices might work very well with a dab of whipped cream, ice cream, creme fraiche or what have you.

I'll post a photo later. I did this recipe by the book (except for the overbaking) and it is dark, dark, dark. Next I'll do Suzy's cake; the one I probably should have tried first.

#119 SethG

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Posted 18 December 2004 - 11:36 PM

Sorry about your cake, Richard.

I decided to make the Grenobloise tomorrow. I'll make the Pave when I get the right pan.
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but we like hot butter on our breakfast toast!"

#120 lemon curd

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Posted 19 December 2004 - 01:00 PM

I just finished baking the cocoa cake for my Black Forest Cake. I used a tall 8" spring form pan and will end up putting my cake together in it as well. As my pan is slightly smaller than the suggested 8 3/4" diameter, I needed to bake the cake for longer than the recommended time.

Posted Image

I had one minor dilemma when making the cake (heads-up to the Pave makers as you'll find the same problem when you go to make the cocoa cake). There appears to be an error in the conversion between volume and weight for the sugar. The recipe calls for 1 1/4 cups or 150 grams of sugar (which I assumed to be granulated sugar). 1 1/4 of granulated sugar weighs closer to 250 grams. I checked a few other recipes for similar type cakes and I thought that the 250 gram amount of sugar was reasonable and it did seem to work fine. Another possibility is that the sugar type was confectioners sugar, but I checked and 1 1/4 cups of confectioners' sugar weighs closer to 130 grams. I'm curious to know what 'you' would (will?) do in this situation...

Edited by lemon curd, 19 December 2004 - 01:01 PM.

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