9 replies to this topic

[Squeat Mungry]

Eric Asimov looks for unpretentious Napa restaurants serving good food:

The air of self-importance that sometimes permeates the wineries can extend to the restaurants as well. There is no shortage of food in Napa that is hypercreative in a scattered, outdated, topped-with-mango-salsa sort of way.

Thankfully, one can also find food of subtlety and grace, served in restaurants that are ambitious but unpretentious, prepared by chefs who consider their duty to serve you a satisfying meal rather than persuading you that you are in the center of the universe.

During a trip to Napa Valley in mid-August, when the winemakers were tasting the grapes and calculating exactly when to start picking, I ate in restaurants of recent vintages, looking for food that was compelling without the hype. Three of these four fit the bill, while the fourth is still a work in progress. And each, as you might expect, has a fine wine list.

For the most part, he likes what he finds. Article here.

Any eGulleteers been to Stomp yet?

Cheers,

Squeat

Edited by Squeat Mungry, 08 November 2004 - 03:39 PM.

[winesonoma]

Gotta link to the article?

[Squeat Mungry]

Doh! Sorry. Thanks! Original post now includes a link.

[Carolyn Tillie]

This explains why two different New Yorkers contacted me about where to eat in Napa in the next few weeks -- one already had indicated a desire to dine at Bouchon when she had read the article and another was chosing between Auberge du Soleil and Pilar.

I was surprised that a NY newspaper was reviewing Napa restaurants but hadn't the time to hunt out the review.

Thanks, Squeat!

[jeffperez62]

Just returned from a week in Calistoga. We ate at Pilar, Cindys and FL to name a few. Our hotel , the Calistoga spa is right across from Stomp, which was almost empty every night we passed by. Pilar was very good, I would eat at Cindy's every night if I could, and the FL.......need I say more. I just got off the plane and my eyes are rolling to the back of my head, so I'll give more details soon. We did stop up at Ladera to see Carolyn (which was spectacular.....and Carolyn, you rock!) which was one of the highlights of our trip!!

[VivreManger]

This explains why two different New Yorkers contacted me about where to eat in Napa in the next few weeks -- one already had indicated a desire to dine at Bouchon when she had read the article and another was chosing between Auberge du Soleil and Pilar.

I was surprised that a NY newspaper was reviewing Napa restaurants but hadn't the time to hunt out the review.

Thanks, Squeat!

Actually I am from New England, not NY. The Times in this case functions as a national rather than local paper. I guess the assumption reflects a Californian's view of the world, the mirror image of Steinberg's famous New Yorker cartoon. But perhaps Carolyn had some other contacts in mind besides mine.

In fact the NYTimes article was in its Sunday Travel section where it regularly covers out of town dining.

Edited by VivreManger, 09 November 2004 - 02:20 PM.

[rancho_gordo]

From the NYTimes:

Pilar easily won me over with its almost exquisite sense of simplicity and restraint.

I had such a great dinner there that I started to question my own tastse. Did I like itso much because I don't eat out as much as I used to and this was a special gig? Because other eGulleters liked the place (save Melkor who thinks it's good for a luncheonette)? I knew her a little personally from a Slow Food event? This review makes me think it was as good as I thought.

I realize I don't care much about eating in "concept" restaurants like Martini House, even though I'm sure it's excellent. Almost like going to farmers market to get produce from the someone closer the growing process, I prefer to eat in places where I'm closer to the chef. At Pilar you get a sense of the thought process that produced your meal.

I should say I have never eaten at Martini House (although I've been to the bar three or two times!) and I have no idea how much control the chef has over the menu.

[Carolyn Tillie]

This explains why two different New Yorkers contacted me about where to eat in Napa in the next few weeks -- one already had indicated a desire to dine at Bouchon when she had read the article and another was chosing between Auberge du Soleil and Pilar.

I was surprised that a NY newspaper was reviewing Napa restaurants but hadn't the time to hunt out the review.

Thanks, Squeat!

Actually I am from New England, not NY. The Times in this case functions as a national rather than local paper. I guess the assumption reflects a Californian's view of the world, the mirror image of Steinberg's famous New Yorker cartoon. But perhaps Carolyn had some other contacts in mind besides mine.

In fact the NYTimes article was in its Sunday Travel section where it regularly covers out of town dining.

You weren't the only one -- but I did assume you were in New York as you referenced the article. Slightly true that to us, if you are on the East Coast, it is simply "the other side of the US," but not necessarily all New Yorkers...

[melkor]

I realize I don't care much about eating in "concept" restaurants like Martini House, even though I'm sure it's excellent. Almost like going to farmers market to get produce from the someone closer the growing process, I prefer to eat in places where I'm closer to the chef. At Pilar you get a sense of the thought process that produced your meal.

I should say I have never eaten at Martini House (although I've been to the bar three or two times!) and I have no idea how much control the chef has over the menu.

The Martini House is the only Kuleto restaurant I'm interested in eating at. Farallon isn't bad, but the Martini House is actually very good. Pilar is good, it's just not amazing, and a restaurant here to be worth visiting again and again it needs to be amazing. Pilar does make better rice pudding than I've had anywhere else.

[melkor]

You weren't the only one -- but I did assume you were in New York as you referenced the article. Slightly true that to us, if you are on the East Coast, it is simply "the other side of the US," but not necessarily all New Yorkers... 

"Us" wouldn't include anyone from the West Coast I know...