I thought the review was unecessarily mean. I certainly got the feeling that a) she never liked Bourdain and b) resents him for being, well, macho. I certainly get the feeling she might be offended in a restaurant kitchen with people swearing (gasp). And while it is possible that the recipes she tried don't work, I think she was looking for them to fail so that she could poke fun.
Also, I think she completely misses the mark with this quote:
Has this guy ever been to France? No, they don't wear Dockers or drive SUVs, and it's not easy to find organic produce. But the white asparagus in any grungy little village market blows the stuff we get from Chile out of the water, the vine-ripened tomatoes are indeed fire-engine red, and the Label Rouge chicken you find in any French supermarket is 10 times more flavorful than our best organic birds.
Despite Bourdain's diminishing authority as I continued reading, I continued cooking.
She is, for those of you who haven't read the review, excoriating Bourdain's theory that French country food developed as a result of having to cook with less than perfect food. She may be right that French ingredients are better, on the whole, than what is readily available in the US. But she's completely off the mark if she thinks that people started eating offal because they had access to those lovely Label Rouge chickens. Bistro food began as peasant food and poor people don't necessarily get to eat those fire engine red tomatoes. They eat the best tomatoes that they can afford, and those might be bruised, or one day short of bad. And the food that they created, which Bourdain is clearly devoted to, was intended to highlight the best aspects of those slightly soft tomatoes while disguising their worst attributes.
What a generally bitchy review.