933 replies to this topic

[ngatti]

This is just a very, very brief sampling of some of the dishes I have had at French Laundry. Each one was extraordinary and on a par with how Robert described the Oysters and Pearls. Again, I don't doubt for a minute Robert's mediocre experience and have no credible explanation of why. But, I would hate to see someone totally dismiss French Laundry based on what I sincerely hope was an aberation.

Agreed Lizzie, and as I read Robert's post, I don't think he dismissed FL out of hand. As I said I enjoyed my meal very much. Both you and Robert make me envious. A restaurant of this calibre lends itself to much attention and necessarily provokes much splitiing of hairs.

Lookinf forward to seeing how this thread develops.

Nick

[marcus]

Lizziee -- The underlying question is how do we form an opinion of a restaurant in which we've never eaten based on the reports of others. How do we calibrate those opinions. For me, in thinking about this, there are 3 touch points: How do a reviewer's opinions compare to my own for restaurants that I have been to, is a restaurant and its dishes described in terms that appear relevant to me, and reading between the lines, what is the reviewer revealing that may be inadvertant, rather than directly intended.

I do find your reviews quite credible and I read your write-ups on your recent trip to France with great interest and have printed a copy of your 21 best dishes. I do suspect that I am more directly focused on the food as opposed to the overall dining experience and that I may be somewhat more critical overall. Of great service, you have convinced me that I do not need to try Astrance, that I can go back to Troisgros and still get excellently prepared instances of the old classics without having to try the fusion dishes that I know will disappoint me, and that I do not need to make a special trip to L'Arnsbourg, generic and international in style even though very good. On the other hand, despite your negative review, I still do need to try Veyrat, although I'm sure that you would agree with that as well.

My best example of a revealing comment comes from Fat Guy's excellently constructed recent review of Citarella which was circulated in his newsletter. I particularly liked the review because it didn't start with a recitation of dishes, but by creating a context at a higher conceptual level; discussing freshness of ingredients, then applying this to fish and Citarella as a fish company, then discussing the chef and his history and then bringing these together to discuss the restaurant and using the dishes to exemplify. Even his direct criticism of the dishes as being sometimes too bland didn't turn me off. What definitively did turn me off, was his description of the treatment of himachi collar, where in order to pander (my word) to local sensibilities, the fish was removed from the bony structure which was not presented on the plate. For this reason, I personally will not go to this restaurant.

With regard to the French Laundry, all of the dishes that you named look very good from a menu perspective and at this level I agree with you, what's to not like? All I can say is that after reading multiple reviews including yours and Robert Brown's, Fat Guy's and others, my belief is that I would find the style to be over-intellectualized. What Robert Brown has added is that the restaurant may also be in a trough with regard to creativity and execution, and my reading is that this is not a one time aberration.

[lizziee]

Marcus,

First of all, thank you for your cogent reply. I appreciate the thought and time it took you to respond. I am not questioning your reluctance to go to the French Laundry at all. I was just wondering the criteria you used to evaluate a review.

Reading between lines you are not a big fan of fusion food, prefer cuisine that is a reflection of the "terroir" or specific to locale and is not dumbed down for a "wary audience." I am not sure what you mean by Keller's "style is over-intellectualized." I would appreciate it if you would go into this in further depth.

I would agree with you that the over-all dining experience is important to me. It is a given that the food must be excellent, but if the other aspects of fine dining (service, ambiance etc.) is missing or less than, it has a definite bearing on my reaction to that restaurant. That is not to say that great service can make up for lousy food.

We were treated royally at Veyrat, but I wouldn't go back as I am not a fan of Veyrat's cuisine. That said, I definitely think it is a must restaurant to experience as Veyrat is a commanding figure on the culinary scene.

On the other side, the service at Ducasse was fair to poor which definitely affected our dining experience, particularly at those prices.

As far as the French Laundry is concerned, we were there in June and did not notice any less creativity or lack of execution. I can only comment on my personal experience and hope that what Robert experienced was "World Series Itis."

[marcus]

Lizziee -- I don't dislike fusion cooking in principle, but in practice my experience with it has not been satisfactory. This culminated in my dinner at Roellinger, which should be the acme of fusion cooking, which I actively disliked. With regard to Troisgros, this is compounded by my reading of an apparent consensus that the son is not a brilliant chef. I have not been back to Troisgros for many years since before the father died, and I remember it as one of my very best and most enjoyable meals ever. I have been reluctant to compromise those memories.

Intellectualization has been a growing component of modern life which has had impacts on all arts including haut cuisine. Where it crosses the line, or if such a line even exists, into-overintellectualization is a personal judgment. I hit that line earlier rather than later. In my view, intellectualization inherently places itself in opposition to soul.

Here are some examples: At Trama I once had a salmon dish with balsamic vinegar and blee germe. The wheat germ was in a small pile on top of the fish. It had no taste. It was there to make a statement that Trama believes in healthy food. Michel Bras' appetizer with 20+ vegetables placed together in small quantifies is a brag over technique. He is saying, look at what I can do by indvidually cooking and placing together this large number of vegetables and herbs and you can individually taste every one. I actually enjoy this dish, but if I didn't know and appreciate what the chef was attempting, I'm not sure that I would. I've never been to El Bulli, but his "deconstruction" of raw materials into foams is clearly another type of intellectualization.

With regard to French Laundry I am once again speaking at second hand. Nor do I believe that Keller is the worst offender, but I do have the impression that his is, to a significant extent, concept food. I'm sure that he is not nearly as much of an offender, from my perspective, as Trotter who's dishes to me appear to be studies rather than finished works.

[Zeb A]

I'm sure that he is not nearly as much of an offender, from my perspective, as Trotter who's dishes to me appear to be studies rather than finished works.

Uh oh. Now you've done it. Just wait till Awbrig gets a load of this.

[Peter Rodgers]

While I dearly love the Napa and Sonoma Valleys -- especially the surprising number of small, family run wineries, the summer food markets and the luxury of resorts like the Auberge de Soleil, etc., our food experiences often have been as disappointing as the one you reported at the French Laundry.

That said, on the one occasion in 2000 that we were been able to break through the reservation system and snag a table, we had perhaps our best meal in the U.S. (other than at Daniel in NYC) in several years. We had reservation problems (as you found, they seemed to have amnesia about our booking), which forced us to take a late (9 pm) seating. We are used to eating in Europe and did not mind; the bonus, however, was that the service was less pressed and more attentive. We stretched our consumption of the big the tasting menu to after midnight. And when we had foraged through, we were invited to the kitchen, where Tom Keller took time to chat with us at considerable length. I can't remember the details of our meal, but pearls and oysters was a marvel (much as you said), we had a perfect seared foie gras, and at one point a feathery light quennelle de brochet, sauce nantua that seemed like it had been flown straight from Lyon.

Otherwise, the scene in Napa has produced repeated disappointments. Terra was good the first time, but boring since, Tra Vigna ordinary and the several Yountville bistros (including Keller's) just ok.

After many meals, our favorite in the area is Mustards. Not flashy, but real food, from an Americana tradition, that is consistently well prepared.

[russ parsons]

i was in the valley last week and dined again at the french laundry, with this post lurking in the back of my mind. i think i understand what the original writer was saying and it's actually a fairly common experience. let me say at the outset that it is impossible for me to be impartial about this restaurant, it is probably my favorite in this country. also, thomas is a friend ... actually i edited him for two years. i have eaten at the laundry probably a dozen times over the last 3 or 4 years (and, yes, always paid for my meals).

that said, i do find sometimes that palate fatigue is sometimes a problem. I've had 6-hour, 25-course meals that were absolutely remarkable in every way: intellectually challenging, yet utterly delicious. but i'd be the first to admit that after the first 10 or 15 courses, the attention begins to flag. no matter how great hte cooking is, by the main meats, i'm usually feeling a bit fatigued. i've always thought the worst job in cooking has to be pastries at the french laundry. my solution (and one i recommend highly), is to take a break in hte middle of the meal (or, for a really long meal, take 2 breaks) and walk around in the garden. get some fresh air, rub your hands on the herb plants. be sure to let the servers know the course before you plan to do this. i've been in the kitchen when a guest went to the bathroom just before a course went out and the entire parade of waiters for the table returned to the kitchen, the dishes were disassembled and then put backtogether with fresh sauces and garnishes when the diners were ready.

thomas is insane, but in the very best way.

[lizziee]

Russ,

That is exactly what my husband and I do. Usually, right before the foie gras course, we alert our server and take a breather in the garden. I am glad that the French laundry is living up to its reputation as for me, it is my favorite in the country.

"Be sure to let the servers know the course before you plan to do this. i've been in the kitchen when a guest went to the bathroom just before a course went out and the entire parade of waiters for the table returned to the kitchen, the dishes were disassembled and then put backtogether with fresh sauces and garnishes when the diners were ready."

Russ, take a look at the Lespinasse thread to see how they handle a missing diner! Quite a difference!

[lizziee]

Russ,

Where else did you eat in the valley that you felt was note worthy?

[jciel]

First, let me say that I live in the valley. Secondly, let me thank Robert for that excellent review of FL. I get to dine there several times a year and can honestly say that I have never had the best of experiences. In fact, I am now so disenchanted by both of TK's properties that I will try deflect invitations to either in favor of other, more local, venues. There are, to be fair, some dishes that border on the sublime, but most are well conceived, but poorly executed. There are other flaws, service has certainly slipped since TK's brother left for his own ventures, and the rate at which staff will turnover, is even by most restaurant standards high. FL is now, and has been for several years, a resume builder. FL's retrenching started several years ago when all the staff were placed on salary, and service and kitchen staff left in droves. While the bottom line improved, and allowed for expansion, there was no commensurate improvement in the quality of the product. Some of this may be attributed to lack of oversight, but I feel that the quality of the staffing declined so considerably that they will be recovering for some time. Thanks for letting me rant, FL and Bouchon have been my pet peeves for some time.

[robert brown]

I seem to have been short-changed in the number of courses department. If there is one standard of generosity for some and another for others, what kind of crap is that? Nice post, Jciel. It was hardly pie in the sky (and probably on the money).

[Jinmyo]

I seem to have been short-changed in the number of courses department. If there is one standard of generosity for some and another for others, what kind of crap is that?

Merde?

[Dan in Austin]

'lizzie, I found this staggering. Amidst it all, this stands out to me:

8. Egg
White truffle custard with ragout of Perigord truffles with veal stock presented in a hallowed out egg
Coddled hen egg with perigord truffle beurre noisette

Sigh. "




This dish has been around for years; one can get this prepared flawlessly at Faugeron in Paris.

[southern girl]

Dan in Austin...welcome.

You might want to check out lizziee's extensive posts on the France board...including one from Oct. 25....Lunch at Faugeron .

Edited by southern girl, 04 December 2002 - 03:57 PM.

[Jinmyo]

Dan, it's just a great dish. Anything with egg and mushrooms is staggering to me, actually.

[boaziko]

Lizziee,

Sorry for not responding earlier. English not being my native language makes it rather slow and slightly difficult to go in details (in writing at least) but:

We went to the FL with our kids (7 &11) both are mid-eastern fellows that before that went to some 2-3 Michelin stars establishments in Europe behaved and ate well (so did the adults, in most cases...)

I asked the question primarily because in previous times we had problem here and there with getting into some places in the US (R & S hotels and restaurants if I remember correctly).

We were very happy to be treated at a 3 star level with our kids. We shared 2 menus, (one with the extra foie dish). One kid got his own delicious Pasta and we all receives the Amuses (Cornets of Atlantic Salmon Tartar , Potato Blini, cauliflower panna cotta) but paid only for the 2 menus and the dish which we felt was more than fair. Our waiter was ever so helpful. The food was first rate, the best I had in the US so far.

We were lucky to get places due to the fact that 2 years ago we made a "Thomas Keller" meal in Israel, with some friends, according to the FL book. we took pictures of the meal and sent it to TK. he answered and said that we should also try the restaurant, it took us some time but he remembered and 8 weeks or so before last August we knew there was a good reason to visit Napa valley.

By the way ,we had another great dinner (with reserving the table an hour before) we at Bistro Jeanty. Perfection of classic French dishes as if we were in Europe.

[lizziee]

Boaziko,

I am so glad that your experience at FL was as good as you expected. Sometimes, I think that Thomas Keller is unfairly maligned as so many people consider it to be one of the best restaurants in the U.S. and anything short of perfection engenders a lot of negativity. Added to this, the difficulty in getting reservations creates even more hostility and resentment.

By the way, your English is perfect.

[lizziee]

There has been a lot of discussion about Thomas Keller losing his edge and that the French Laundry is not as good as it was in the past.

We just returned from the Napa Valley where we enjoyed 2 meals at the French Laundry. I can, without reservation, say that Thomas Keller is delivering wonderful, exceptional meals. What distinguishes a French Laundry meal is the way Keller and his team use only the highest quality ingredients, some unique. Preparation is consistently perfect. I rarely see mistakes, bobbles or errors in Keller's cuisine that I find quite frequently in the cuisine of other chefs in the U.S. Keller is one of a few American based chefs that I find consistently excellent--every course, every meal. This is based on dining at The French Laundry between 7 to 10 times a year for the past 4 years.

I did notice that Thomas prefers to serve his food tepid, not hot. This may be off-putting to some, but, for me, I find that I can "taste" the flavors much more intensely at this temperature. It is the same as when you are served a white burgundy that is so cold that the flavor disappears.

Our first meal was on December 29. Please note, as frequent guests we are treated to a "tasting" that might not be offered to other diners. We sometimes receive two different preparations of a dish for one course. We chose to each consume 50% of each dish by passing the dishes in the middle of the course. This is not required, but we enjoy having double the number of taste experiences.

1. Cornets of Atlantic Salmon Tartar with red onion creme fraiche (This is always the first taste.)

2. Soup
Butternut Squash with 3 small round grilled shitake mushrooms and a red pepper tapenade
Puree of chestnuts with whole glazed chestnuts - this was rich, intense and just perfect

3. Caviar
a. Signature Dish of Oysters and Pearls - "Sabayon" of pearl tapioca with Malpeque oysters and osetra caviar
b. Another signature dish of cauliflower panna cotta topped with osetra caviar

Thomas is now using American osetra from Sacramento Valley (Tsar Nicholas) as the Russian caviar has been so inconsistent in quality. Keller will not, as a matter of principle, purchase Iranian Caviar. The French Laundry purchases 5 kilos of caviar a week!

4. Smoked Salmon sliced into long, thin strips presented on celery gelee (named celery Victor) with daikon. This dish had a palate cleansing feel to it.

5. Eggs - two more signature dishes
a. White truffle custard with ragout of Perigord truffles with veal stock presented in a hallowed out egg
b. Coddled hen egg with perigord truffle beurre noisette

6. - Hearts of Palm
a. Hearts of Palm cut to resemble linguine with sherry mignonette and shaved black truffles
b. Hearts of Palm cut to resemble a tartar with black truffle coulis

These 2 dishes sound like they won't work, but they did. Again, the subtle blending of flavors, the unexpected addition of luxurious black truffles to the simple hearts of palm was "one heck of a salad."

7. Pasta
a. House made tagliatelle with black truffles
b Carnaroli risotto with black truffles

In both dishes, our server kept shaving the black truffle until we stopped him. I kept thinking, "There goes the profit."

The pasta course was straight-forward so that the flavor of the black truffle was dominant. The tagliatelle was just perfect. Sorry, for the over-use of the word perfect.

At this point, we took a much needed break and walked outside to the garden. From the garden, you can see into the kitchen; it is like watching a ballet - no hectic scrambling, just a controlled, intensely concentrated effort to produce the best by an "army" of cooks.

8. Fish
Shank of Cod with cocoa beans ragout with another very, very generous shaving of black truffles, done tableside. I never thought I would say this, but I was beginning to get over truffled.

9. Lobster
Lobster fricassee with globe artichokes, roma tomatoes in a spicy lobster broth. Tableside our server added a few drops of Permefiglia olive oil to the dish. This was a sensational dish - perfectly tender cooked lobster in a light, full-flavored, well-balanced broth. Normally, having lobster at this point in a meal puts me over the top, but this was so delicate and light that I didn't have that stuffed feeling at all.

10. Foie Gras
Whole roasted Moulard duck foie gras with spiced bread crumbs, slices of Bosc pears and clove gastric. The bread crumb added the crunch to the dish and the clove gastric was a masterful seasoning.

We were getting full and asked our server what Thomas had in mind for the next courses. He was going to do 2 meat courses, but we decided to pare it down to one.

11. Lamb
Elysian Farms Lamb with salsify, morels, chanterelles and dusted with mushroom powder.

12. Cheese
A quenelle of Vacheron with prune confit. Our server formed the Vacheron quenelle table side, mentioning that he had practiced making the perfect quenelle by forming quenelles at home with peanut butter.

A note on FL personnel. They are committed professionals. Servers, expediters, runners, management staff are all excellent. They are not stuffy or pretentious. Over the years we have seen the few snooty ones, or the ones who are less than customer centered go their way. It took 30+ interviews to find sommelier Bobby Stuckey. He is leaving soon to do his own thing. You can be sure his replacement will be one of the outstanding wine people in the U.S., who also has "floor presence" and real skill with customers. At The French Laundry they are very conscious of the client and his or her feelings about every part of the food and wine experience.

13. Dessert
We decided to forego the multi-course grand dessert presentation and just had chocolate truffles.

Wines:

Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle - NV
Keith Fergel, the Asst. Sommelier pointed out that this is something fairly new from Laurent Perrier. They figure that a NV, Cuvee does well for Krug. It was excellent.

2000 Bourgogne Comte de Vogue
Fabulous. Comte de Vogue is known for his Reds. This was a real treat. Quite expensive for a "Bourgogne" $150, but worth it. There is a Musigny Blanc that is very, very expensive, but supposedly wonderful...perhaps?

78 L'Angelus St Emilion
We are normally Burgundy drinkers at The French Laundry, but Keith suggested this wonderful St. Emilion. It was slightly aged, with deep flavor and a beautiful finish.

Service was exceptional. This was a perfect meal from beginning to end.

In an earlier thread, someone had asked if children were welcome at French Laundry. On this first night, a four year old was sitting at the round table in the middle of the room. Both my husband and I were not exactly thrilled to see a 4 year old at 8:00 pm at the French Laundry. Let me say, the staff was wonderful to him. He sat for 4 hours, ate with gusto, was well-behaved and a remarkable child. When his Dad asked him what were his favorite dishes, at the end of the meal - his answer - ice cream, caviar, lamb.

We know that New Years Eve is amateur night, but figured that French Laundry would be able to handle it. The staff again was superb, but I can't say the same for the customers. I wish the four year old had come back for a second dinner. One couple, in particular, was memorable: she was in blue jeans and he spent a great deal of time talking on his cell phone. Another disgusting customer faux pas - 2 no shows - one table of 4 and one table of 6. Let me add that the French Laundry did not take money in advance or a credit card guarantee - the no shows represented no revenue.

New Years Eve

1. Salmon Cornet

2. Gougere

3. Custard infused with applewood smoked bacon and chives topped with a quenelle of osetra caviar

4. White truffle custard with ragout of Perigord truffles with veal stock presented in a hallowed out egg.

5. Grilled globe artichoke salad, oven roasted roma tomato, nicoise olives, Jacobsen's Fram crosnes and a Bagna Cauda sauce. The crosnes look like white caterpillars or rattlesnake tails that are crunchy in taste, something like jicama.

6.
Russet potato gnocchi, roasted chestnuts, white truffle butter and shaved white truffles from Alba. Again, our server kept shaving and shaving and shaving! The gnocchi were as light as a soufflé and the chestnuts added perfect texture plus wonderful flavor.

Risotto with white truffles and white truffle butter

7. Salt crusted dourade with mounted baby leeks with a red wine sauce.

8. Pan roasted Maine sea scallop with matsutake mushrooms, celery root puree and matsutake mushroom emulsion

My husband doesn't like scallops and Thomas made a salmon dish for him.

9. "Blanquette" of Monkfish tail, walla walla shallot marmelade and shaved white truffles from Alba.

10. "Canard a L'Orange" Whole roasted moulard duck foie gras with orange braised duck leg and confit of navel orange. The foie gras looked liked a petit filet, about 2 x 2 x 2 and was cooked with a slight crunch on the outside, but moist and rare inside.

11. "Beef x 2"
Grilled "Calotte" and poached rib-eye of prime beef, "tortelloni" of roasted root vegetables and oxtail consomme

12. A quenelle of Vacheron with black currant bread pudding and garden greens. The pudding was a postage stamp layer of 3-4 pieces of bread less than 1/8" thick studded with the black currants.

13. Meyer lemon sorbet with persimmon pudding muffin.

14. A rich, decadent chocolate dessert - "Velours de Chocolat et Noisette"

Wines:

1995 Billecarte Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth
This was one of two pours included in the $ 275 dinner price fixe menu. The other was Dom Perignon '95. The Billecarte is a real favorite--beautiful blush color, fine bubbles and a crisp bite to the taste.

1996 Chassagne Montrachet, Les Champgaines 1er Cru, Michel Niellon
A little bit of age on this very well made Chassagne. Smooth, light on the palate, beautiful clean finish--what chardonnay grapes should taste like.


1995 Cote Rotie, Jasmin (the last vintage the Dad made before he died)
A very Burgundian style. Bobby recommended it as an alternative to our Burgundy preferences to go with the meat course. It was superbly clean wine with a beautiful fresh nose and full body.

[southern girl]

Well...I know two people who obviously had a VERY happy New Year ...Makes me look forward to my visit in Feb. even more. Thanks for the two incredible reviews Lizzie!

[Rail Paul]

Thanks for the detailed notes, lizziee. Your meals sound wonderfully composed and presented.

May I ask if the French Laundry provides a detailed menu / description or did you have to seek the information? The specific details of your report suggest FL honors its diners and suppliers with this recognition.

Thanks again...

[lizziee]

Rail Paul,

The first night, we had no menu and Thomas just cooks. When a dish is presented, they tell you exactly what you are eating. When I had questions about an ingredient, our server went to the kitchen for the specifics.

The second night, we received a printed menu. Thomas is very committed to his suppliers and always mentions the source of his ingredients.

The bottom line - yes a composed, presented, well-executed meal.

[Jinmyo]

Wonderful report, lizziee.

Again, as always, those egg dishes get me.

[Beachfan]

15 persimmon puddings,

ohhhhhhllll, persimmon pudding

(someone please show me how to link Homer Simpson sounds)

[stefanyb]

without reservation

Really? I'm soooo jealous

Wow, what a report. It sounds amazing.

[marcus]

Lizziee -- I am somewhat perplexed at the recommendation of the 1978 Angelus, are you sure that it wasn't the much superior 1988. Up until 1985, Angelus was making their wines in vats rather than oak casks and the wines were very short lived. I checked the review in my most recent Robert Parker Bordeaux book, and he indicated that he last tasted the wine in 1983, felt that it was already in decline, and gave it a score of 75. It would probably score much lower today. Did the wine have a hard brown edge? Out of curiosity I checked through a couple of data bases of recent auction prices, but could not find any sales, which is not surprising.

[Ron Johnson]

The '95 Jasmin is lovely. A very delicate and nuanced Cote Rotie, which sets it apart from other '95s. I had a case, now only 4 left. I tried to hold onto it, but it is drinking so well right now. Violets in a glass.

[Robert Schonfeld]

Thanks for the wonderful report on your meals, liziee. They sound as if they were exceptional. Two questions:

-The red onion creme fraiche with the Atlantic Salmon Tartar: does the red onion stay with you, or has it been given some treatment as to neutralize its strong residual presence?

-Did you make your reservations the same way as the less frequent patrons? Were reservations for New Year's Eve handled the same as all other reservations at the restaurant?

[lizziee]

"I am somewhat perplexed at the recommendation of the 1978 Angelus, are you sure that it wasn't the much superior 1988." (Marcus)

Marcus, I am not the wine expert in our family. My husband is much more knowledgeable than I am so my comments are based on discussions with him. It was the 1978. French Laundry is currently on vacation. I'll have to wait a couple of weeks and ask Bobby or Keith about the provenance of the wine.

"Did the wine have a hard brown edge?" (Marcus)

The wine was young, clean ruby, wonderful bouquet and fine finish...perfectly aged (moderately) Bordeaux.

The red onion creme fraiche with the Atlantic Salmon Tartar: does the red onion stay with you, or has it been given some treatment as to neutralize its strong residual presence? (Robert)

Robert, There is just a hint of red onion in the red onion creme fraiche. The recipe is in the French Laundry cookbook and the ratio is 1/2 cup creme fraiche to 1 tablespoon of red onions. I have made this recipe many times and there is not an overpowering presence of onion.

"Did you make your reservations the same way as the less frequent patrons? Were reservations for New Year's Eve handled the same as all other reservations at the restaurant?" (Robert)

New Year's Eve reservations were handled the same way as for regular reservations. In fact, most of the patrons for New Year's were first time customers; we were one of the few repeats.

[Really Nice!]

The red onion creme fraiche with the Atlantic Salmon Tartar: does the red onion stay with you, or has it been given some treatment as to neutralize its strong residual presence? (Robert)

Robert, There is just a hint of red onion in the red onion creme fraiche. The recipe is in the French Laundry cookbook and the ratio is 1/2 cup creme fraiche to 1 tablespoon of red onions. I have made this recipe many times and there is not an overpowering presence of onion.

Place the onions in a strainer and run water through it. Blot the onions dry. This diminishes the sulfur atoms.

[Really Nice!]

May I ask if the French Laundry provides a detailed menu / description or did you have to seek the information? The specific details of your report suggest FL honors its diners and suppliers with this recognition.

If you go to Pbase and scroll to the bottom you'll see three menus and a receipt from my three trips there.

Yes, the suppliers are mentioned on the menu. I also take notes about what I'm eating, what sensations I get, and I even take photos of the dishes. I'm sure it's a bit weird for other patrons to observe this, but when you pay close to $600 for dinner for two , you want to remember what you paid for.