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SOUPS PART ONE: THICK SOUPS by Jack Lang and Andy Lynes CONTENTS INTRODUCTION THICK SOUPS: A DEFINITION EQUIPMENT CREAMS AND COULIS VELOUTES BISQUES THE RECIPES BIBLIOGRAPHY APPENDIX: APPROVED COMBINATIONS INTRODUCTION "…soup of the evening, Beautiful soup!" (Lewis Carroll, Alice In Wonderland) There is something deeply reassuring about eating a bowl of soup; it not only satisfies hunger and warms bodies, but also feeds the soul. The ability to make good soups, like the ability to bake good bread, is a basic kitchen skill that every cook worth his salt must acquire. Once mastered, you need never want for a simple, quick meal again. Soup making calls on many of the same fundamental disciplines of cooking that its very near cousins stocks and sauces require - chopping, sweating, clarifying, sieving, pureeing, the preparation of meat, fish and vegetables etc - and are therefore an excellent vehicle for learning these kitchen basics. This module of the eGCI will cover soup making in all its guises. We begin in part one with thick soups, leaving the more demanding clear soups and delicate bouillons to part two. Thick soups are generally more straightforward to prepare than clear types, and far more forgiving in terms of the leeway available regarding quantity and types of ingredients, how those ingredients are prepared and for how long they are cooked. For example, you may roughly chop your vegetables if they are ultimately destined for the blender, but you will not want to garnish the crystal clear consomme (see the eGCI "On Consomme" course ) you have labored over for hours with anything other than a prefect concasse of tomato or vegetable paysanne. Having covered the basic disciplines, we then move on in part three to the likes of chowders, bread-based soups, cold soups and broths, and the varieties that don't fit neatly under the thick or clear headings as we have defined them. EQUIPMENT Making thick soups requires a few pieces of special equipment. The good news is that it's likely that you will own most of them already. If however you need to make a purchase, you will find the following items to have a wide range of cooking applications and useful even when you are not in the mood to make soup: Blender: essential if you want a velvet smooth result without raising a sweat Mouli-legume (vegetable mill): purees like a food processor or blender, but also strains fibrous material that a blender would incorporate into the soup Sieve: passing your pureed soup through a sieve will improve its texture. Chinois: a very fine sieve for the finest, lightest results Ladles: a small bowled ladle for pushing soup through sieves and a large bowled version for serving the soup, drip free THICK SOUPS: A DEFINITION Broadly speaking, thick soups divide into two main types: Purees and Coulis: The thickening component is a puree of the primary ingredient, usually a starch. In olden times these involved much labor, but now with food processors and stick blenders they are easy. The term "puree" usually refers to a vegetable main component, while the term "coulis" to a meat or fish base, such as a Bisque. Cremes and Veloute: In classical cooking the thickening was flour (roux) based, either a béchamel (milk as dilutant) for Crème soups, or Velouté (stock as dilutant) for veloute soups. Making the base sauces is covered in the eGCI course Stock Based Sauces. In these lighter days, the flour-based roux is omitted and the mouth texture provided by more cream or equivalent high-fat or high-starch component such as a more puree (for crèmes), or egg yolk for veloute. There is no hard-and-fast distinction; the same (or nearly the same) soup can be prepared as a puree, a crème or as a veloute, depending what is on hand. CREMES AND COULIS A good thick soup relies on the building of flavors. The process is a short and simple one, but you have the opportunity at each stage to add depth to the finished product. The following describes a method for making what might be viewed as a generic thick soup, taking elements from both the creme and couli styles. Start with a base, usually onion or shallot or maybe some fennel if your soup is going to include some fish or shellfish. Sweat in butter and some oil, being be careful not to color or burn the base as it will send a bitter note running right throughout your soup. This is the foundation of the dish and it will balance out the flavors you add after it. Next, add your main ingredient (carrot, potato, mushroom etc) and cook until tender. This will provide both the character and body of the soup so make sure you are using the best available of your chosen ingredient. Now add your liquid. What that liquid is will depend very much on the main ingredient, but generally a well flavored chicken stock will be most suitable (for detailed instructions on stock making, see the eGCI course on stocks and sauces). However, fish stock may be a more appropriate choice for fish soups. Other alternatives include an aromatic vegetable nage or sometimes water will do just fine. Pulses such as lentils and dried beans make excellent soups. These should be soaked if required and may either be cooked in advance or added to the base along with the cooking liquid and simmered until tender). At this point you should blend and sieve the soup. How smooth a result you require will dictate whether you use a mouli, blender, sieve or chinois. if you aspire to be the next Thomas Keller, you may even wish to employ all four. The final stages are crucial - too heavy a hand with the cream or seasonings will undo all your good work. Heavy (double) cream has the effect of mellowing flavors and too much of it will send them to oblivion. Similarly, too much salt and pepper may render the soup inedible. Taste carefully and remember that you will be eating a whole bowlful rather than just a teaspoon or so - what is nicely savory in small amounts could be unpleasantly salty or pepper-hot in larger servings. If you are using soft herbs like tarragon, basil, parsley and coriander, add these at the end of the cooking time. If used earlier, their delicate and volatile flavors and aromas will simply disappear up the extractor fan. More robust varieties such as bay leaves, rosemary or thyme can be safely added towards the beginning of the process to allow their flavors to permeate the soup properly. VELOUTES You will find any number of "veloutes" on modern restaurant menus. It is a term widely used to describe both sauces and soups, but is more often than not misapplied. Given that classical veloutes are roux based and further thickened with a liaison of egg and cream, you are highly unlikely to have encountered the real thing anytime recently. These methods, though sound, have become deeply unfashionable in professional kitchens of repute. Most chefs would sooner serve you a Big Mac and fries than admit to cooking with a roux. Your average "veloute of celery" will simply be made from a base (as described above), puree, stock, maybe some wine and cream. In truth, it is easy to have some sympathy with this attitude. Classical veloutes may well be overly heavy on the modern palette and sit uncomfortably on the stomach to boot. Veloutes are very economical, which was why they were beloved of classical hotel kitchens. They dilute a little flavouring with a lot of stock and thickeners. Properly made they are very delicate. Alas all too often they are watery wall-paper paste. The basic classical proportions for a veloute soup are: 50% veloute (3 ½ oz./100g roux per quart/1.5L dilutant), 25% puree or primary ingredient 25% stock or water Begin by making the roux base by melting butter in a saucepan and stirring in flour until it is amalgamated and forms a smooth paste. This may be cooked for a few minutes to increase its color. A hot stock or broth is then whisked in brought to the boil and then allowed to simmer for 30-45 minutes to cook out the taste of the raw flour. Next add whatever puree you are using, be it mushroom, pea, asparagus or whatever takes your fancy. Make a liaison of 3 egg yolks beaten into 1/5th (75ml) of cream in a separate bowl then pour into a quart (1.5l) of the soup. Remove from the heat and whisk so that the yolks cook and thicken the soup but do not scramble. DO NOT BOIL after adding the egg liason or it will curdle. If this happens to you, curse, sieve the bits out of the soup and start again with the liaison. A teaspoon of corn flour added to the liaison makes it less sensitive to overheating.The soup may then be enriched even further by the addition of butter. Veloute soups may be served cold, in cups. In this case, as Escoffier writes “See it be sufficiently thin not to impaste the mouth of the consumer” The following is an illustrated example of a veloute soup using the above method and quantities. Veloute Georgette (carrot and tomato) 1: Make the roux 2: 30gms roux to 500ml stock (4oz to a quart) 3: Allow to simmer gently on the side of the stove for 30 mins 4: 250g/8 oz of carrot and tomato flavour 1lt/1.5pts 5:Cook and puree the carrot and tomato ( I microwaved them for 10 mins first) No need to peel the tomatoes, as we will be sieving later 6: Add the veloute and blend 7: Sieve; some will get left behind 8: Mix an egg yolk with a teaspoon of Tapioca flour (or arrowroot or cornstarch or omit) 9: Mix with a little of the cold veloute, like making custard. Heat the rest to boiling. Pour the boiling veloute on the egg mixture, stir, return to the pan and reheat until it thickens; If you used tapioca or cornflour you can simmer gently without it breaking. 10: Finish with a cream swirl, and chopped chervil, parsley or chives BISQUES Bisque is usually prepared with crayfish (prawns), lobster, or even shrimp and provides an excellent way to use up trimmings such as heads and tails. Bisque “A la Ancienne” indicates thickened with bread rather than rice, and garnished with fried bread croutons. Larousse Gastronomique tells us that the word bisque is centuries old and "suggests a connection with the Spanish province of Vizcaya which lends its name top the Bay of Biscay". It also states that it was "not until the 17th centuary that crayfish became the principal ingredient of this dish" which was originally spicy boiled meat or game. Start by cooking the shellfish; make a Mirepoix: 1 oz/25g each of carrot, onion, and parsley stalk or celery cut into very small dice. Brown this in butter; add a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme. Toss in about 1 ½ lbs/ 750g of the shellfish, cut into pieces. If only cooked shellfish is available, use only the heads and shells reserving the tail meat for garnish. Flame with a glass (2 tbs) of brandy. Add ¼ pt/100ml of stock, white wine, or water, a large pinch of salt, and a pinch of ground pepper and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the shellfish and reserve the tail meat, return the heads and shells. Add 3oz/75g cooked rice. If you have a tough-enough liquidiser or food processor, blitz the lot. You may need to do this in small batches, and wrap a towel round the top of a food processor, as the contents will try to escape. Otherwise remove the hard parts of the shells and pound them in a mortar, blitzing the rest. Sieve twice, and then through a fine sieve to remove any trace of shell. Thin to consistency with stock or water. Correct the color with a little tomato paste, and check the seasoning. Finish with 2/ ½ oz/60g butter and 3 tbs of cream. Garnish with reserved tail meat. THE RECIPES One of the joys about soup making is the almost inexhaustable variety it offers. The basic methods described in this course open up a world of possibilities, limited only by your imagination and good taste. The recipes provided therefore are offered as examples of some of the significant styles which incorporate a range of thickening agents from which you can develop your own soups. In addition, the appendix to part one of this module provides an extensive listing of "approved combinations" for your consideration. Ultimate Universal Thick Vegetable Soup Recipe About 2 lb (1kg) vegetables peeled and cut into chunks (see below) 4 oz (100g) butter (olive oil if you must) 1 lb (500g) onions wineglass (150ml) dry sherry (or Madeira or white wine) 2 pints/1.5Ltr water, stock or milk (see below) Seasonings Peel and roughly chop the onions. In a large pan melt the butter and sweat the onions until golden. Add the peeled and chopped vegetables and the sherry or wine. Stir around a bit. Cover with a double layer of greaseproof paper or tinfoil to seal, put the lid on the pan and place on a very low heat for 45 minutes. Shake occasionally if you remember. Add the stock (use a good chicken stock for preference) to the vegetables. Add, milk if you want it creamier, or water if you are feeling mean or fat. Milk is better for white soups like onion, celery, or cauliflower. Don't boil after you add the milk. At this point you can have it as a chunky soup. Otherwise liquidize, either with a handheld blender in the pan or in batches in food processor. Sieve if you want a smoother texture. Sieve twice if you are a grand restaurant. Reheat gently (don't boil). Add more water, stock or milk if too thick. Check for seasonings. It will probably need quite a lot of salt and some pepper. Serve and add a swirl of cream, crème fraiche or garnishes as you like, or as specified below. The following is an illustrated example of a thick soup made using the universal recipe described above and serves two as a starter. Puree of Carrot (Potage Crecy) 1: 125g(4 oz) of onion and 250g (8 oz) of carrot 2: Sweat the onion in butter and add the carrot 3: Cover with a kartouche (circle of greaseproof paper) 4: 45 minutes over a gentle heat or in a low oven 5: Add the liquid (2 cups stock or milk or water) and blend 6: Pass the soup through a sieve 7: Reheat, dilute if required check seasoning, add crouton 8: Left:Puree de Crecy a la Ancienne (carrot with crouton) Right: Veloute Georgette (carrot and tomato) Brill Soup Although often forced to play second fiddle to its more illustrious cousin the turbot, brill is a prime fish with handsome good looks and fine, delicate flesh. This soup then is something of a guilty pleasure, requiring as it does for the expensive fillets to be blitzed to a puree and dispersed amongst more work-a-day ingredients. The luxurious results however justify this act of apparent culinary wantonness. You may of course substitute a less noble fish, salt cod works particularly well, but the texture will not be quite as smooth. a knob of butter 1 tablespoon of olive oil 1 onion, roughly chopped 1 small or half a large bulb of fennel, roughly chopped 1 clove garlic, smashed 1 large potato, cut into 1/2 inch dice 1.2 litres/2 pints fish stock 4 x fillets of brill (i.e the meat of one fish approx. 450g/1lb in weight ) 150ml/5floz heavy(double) cream salt and pepper leaves from 8 stalks of parsley, chopped leaves from 5 stalks of tarragon, chopped Sweat the onion and fennel in the butter and oil until tender but not coloured, add the garlic and cook for another 30-45 seconds. Stir in the potato dice and cover with the fish stock. Bring to the boil and simmer until the potato is nearly cooked through. Add the fish and poach gently until done. the time this takes will vary depending on the thickness of your fish, but allow between 5-7 minutes. Puree the soup in a blender then pass through a sieve back into the pan. Season the soup and add the cream, a few tablespoons at a time, tasting as you go until you have the consistancy and flavour you want. Stir in the herbs and ladle into bowls. Red Lentil Soup with Chili and Warm Spices This soup is slightly unusual in that it employes lentils as its main thickening agent rather than a starchy vegetable, which is then enriched with creme fraiche, which also lends a refreshing note of acidity. The spices listed here should be taken as a suggestion, feel free to use your own favoured combinations. 1 tablespoon groundnut oil 1 Medium red onion, roughly chopped 1 teaspoon each of grated garlic and ginger 1 red chili, finely chopped 1 tablespoon cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground tumeric 170g/6 oz red lentils, washed and drained 2 medium tomatos, skinned and roughly chopped 1.2 litres/2 pints chicken stock 100ml/4fl oz creme fraiche salt and pepper fresh coriander, chopped Heat the oil in a large pan and sweat the red onion until tender but not colored. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a further 30 seconds, then add the chili and spices. Cook for a minute or so then add the lentils and stock and bring to the boil. Add the chopped tomatos and simmer for 30 minutes or until the lentils are tender. Allow to cool slightly, then puree in a blender (you may have to do this in batches). Return to the heat, stir in the creme fraiche and adjust the seasoning. Ladle into bowls and garnish with a swirl of creme fraiche and some of the coriander. BIBLIOGRAPHY Larousse Gastronomique - Prosper Montagne (Editor) Time Life's The Good Cook: Soups - Richard Olney (Chief Consultant). Out of print. A Celebration of Soup: With Classic Recipes from Around the World - Lindsay Bareham The Conran Cookbook - Caroline Conran, Terence Conran, Simon Hopkinson Cooking At The Merchant House - Shaun Hill APPENDIX: APPROVED COMBINATIONS APPENDIX I: BISQUES APPENDIX II: CERMES APPENDIX III: PUREES APPENDIX IV: VELOUTES Ask your questions about this course here. Course Editors: Carolyn Tillie & Andy Lynes HTML Formatting: Andy Lynes

[eGCI Team]

APPENDIX I: APPROVED COMBINATIONS FOR BISQUES Name Main component (puree) Thickening Finish Garnish Volaille “a la Reine” chicken 2 oz./50g rice 3 eggs, ¼ pt.//100ml cream, 3 oz./75g butter white meat of chicken, diced Gibier (Game) “au Chasseur” roasted game, such as 6oz each of rabbit, partridge, and pheasant ½ pt. 200ml cooked lentils butter glass/50ml of burnt brandy wild mushrooms Ardennaise originally thrushes, now any feathered game 5 oz./125g black rye bread butter cream julienne of game Lapereau au Currie rabbit (legs) 2 tbs. chopped onion, softened, curry spices, potato or corn flour cream Cooked rice Mancelle partridge or game chestnuts butter game julienne

[eGCI Team]

APPENDIX II: APPROVED COMBINATIONS FOR CREMES Name: Cream of…[ Puree Garnish/ finish Notes Artichoke with noisette butter artichoke bottoms julienne of artichoke brown butter   Argenteuil white asparagus white asparagus tips Use the stalks and peelings, but sieve well Asparagus green Asparagus asparagus tips ditto Green Wheat (Ble verte) unripe wheat: soak for 4 hours, then boil until soft; puree and sieve parsley or chervil   Celery celery celery brunoise   Bruxelloise chicory julienne Belgium was a centre for chicory production Florentine spinach a few torn leaves Easiest with frozen spinach. Nice with a little sorrel added Can also use any green leafy vegetable, or even nettles. Broad Beans broad beans a few skinned beans   Bresilienne yam or sweet potato tapioca pearls   Judic lettuce lettuce parcels See puree Pere Tranquil Washington sweet corn (maize) sweet corn kernels   Sorrel “a la Avoine” oatmeal cooked to porridge with milk; sorrel cooked in butter (6 tbs./pt porridge) parsley or chervil   Sorrel “a la Orge” substitute cooked creamed  pearl barley for oatmeal     Riz cooked rice     Barley (orge) cooked pearl barley     Princesse breast of chicken pureed slices of chicken, asparagus heads, parsley   Reine Margot breast of chicken pureed quenelle of chicken made green with pistachio puree  

[eGCI Team]

APPENDIX III: APPROVED COMBINATIONS FOR PUREES Main Ingredient Ingredients and Variants Named Garnish Apple  2 lbs./1kg apples (Granny Smith) 1 tbs. sugar Apple crème fraiche or yogurt cheesy croutons   2 tsp. curry powder   toasted coconut Apricot and Marrow 1 lb./405g dried apricots 1 lb./450g marrow, pumpkin or courgette (zucchini) ½ tsp. ginger 1 tbs. sugar   crème swirl mint sprigs Asparagus 2 lbs./1Kg asparagus trimmings Comtesse (version A) (white Asparagus) a few asparagus tips, parsley, cream     Gosford (green Asparagus)       Montespan peas, cream swirl Broad Bean 2 lb./1Kg shelled broad beans 1tbs. sugar Pythagore A few shelled broad beans removed from their skins   a)4 oz./100g hazelnuts   toasted nuts   b)juice and rind of 2 lemons   lemon slices cream swirl parsley Haricot beans 1 lb./500g soaked or tinned haricot beans Comtesse ( version B) crouton, parsley   (8oz/200g dried)       a)1lb./500g leeks       b)mixed vegetables Dartoise garnish with small dice of coked carrots, potatoes, turnips, celery etc   c) Maria As above with cream added   d)2 tbs. tomato puree Bretonn     e)½  bottle red wine       f)8 oz./200g sorrel or watercress 6 lettuce leaves Conde cream Broccoli 2 lbs./1Kg  broccoli   small sprigs of broccoli   a)1 lb. apple wineglass Calvados (optional)   apple slices softened in butter Brussels Sprouts 1 lb/500g brussels sprouts 1 lb./500g  potatoes Flamande crispy bacon bits   a)8 oz./200g chestnuts (use canned or canned puree) 1 tsp. sugar nutmeg       b)Can substitute hazelnuts for chestnuts       c)2 tbs. mustard (add with stock)   cress sprouts Cabbage cabbage (mostly) carrots turnips leeks Garbure croutons   a) lots of home-grown vegetables Gabure  Fermiere cheese croutons   b) lots of shop vegetables Gabure Paysanne     c) turnips, green beans Garbure Bearnaise salt pork (cooked with the vegetables) or confit of goose croutons   d)potatoes, courgette (zucchini)s, beetroot, Garbure Dauphinoise Its traditional in the South West of France to “faire La Chabrot” which consists in finishing its soup by pouring wine from one’s glass into the remains in the plate and drinking the mixture Carrot 2lbs./1 Kg Carrots 1 tbs. Sugar Crecy Cream strips of carrot   a) Crecy a la Ancienne croutons   b) 1 lb. potato Crecy a la Briarde croutons, chopped parsley   c)8 oz./200g apple   apple slices softened in butter   d)2 tbs. coriander seeds   cream swirl, sprigs fresh coriander   e)4 pieces fresh ginger   finely chopped preserved ginger   f) 1 lb./500g leeks; 1 tbs. mustard   toasted almonds   g) juice and grated rind of 4 oranges   caramelised orange slices/blanched strips of orange zest   h) leeks tomatoes mushrooms rice Genin shredded sorrel/watercress   i) 1 l.b/500g peas Medicis cream, parsley Cauliflower 2 lbs./1 Kg cauliflower 1 tbs. sugar DuBarry cauliflower sprigs parsley   a)Make with milk, Grand Tante thicken with egg yolks   b) 4 oz./200g  sharp cheddar cheese 1 tsp. English mustard   cheesy croutons   c) caramelised cauliflower - cook the cauliflower first in a hot non-stick pan or wok (+ oil) with the sugar until caramelised   caramelised cauliflower sprigs   (or Use roasted cauliflower) eGullet     d) 2 oz. white chocolate extra vanilla (optional) Blumenthal Dust with cocoa or chocolate curls   e) red pepper, de-seeded and chopped; chilli to taste   chopped red pepper Celeriac 2 lbs./1Kg celeriac Pierre-le-Grand celeriac dice, cream Celery 2 lbs./ 1Kg celery (or lovage)   garlic crouton   a)2 tsp. curry powder       b)2 tbs. dried dill seeds   dill fronds   c)8 oz./200g chestnut (tinned or puree) Clairmont balls of chestnut puree   d)make with chicken stock La Valiere Fried Onions, cream  profiterole stuffed with chicken   e)2 tbss rice diced celery Lison sago pearls Courgette (zucchini) 2 lbs./1 Kg courgette (zucchini) or marrow   courgette (zucchini) strips   a)Use cucumber instead or courgette (zucchini) Doria mint spigs cream swirl   b)1 lb./500g fennel juice and grated rind 2 oranges   fennel frond/diced fennel   c)2 tbs. fresh rosemary (may need sieving)   rosemary sprig   d)2 tsp. curry powder   toasted nuts Fennel 2 lbs. fennel dash Pernod   fennel fronds finely diced fennel   4 oz./100g ground almonds   toasted almonds   large red pepper, de-seeded and chopped   red pepper dice Jerusalem Artichoke 2 lbs./1Kg peeled artichokes lemon Juice Palestine bacon bits Leek and Potato 1 lb. leek 1 lb. potato Parmentier When served iced, called Vichysoisse chives cream swirl   Add 8 oz./250g carrot Bonne Femme     Add 8oz./250g wild mushrooms Pastourelle mushrooms, fried potatoes, cream   2 lbs./1Kg leeks Poireaux croutons, cream Lentil 1 lb./500g soaked lentils (8 oz./250g dried) Esau cream, croutons   glass Madeira make with game stock Gentilhomme diced Ham, croutons   Marsala 1 tsp. truffle oil make with game stock Imperator ravioli stuffed with foie gras, truffles, Royale Quenelle of Pheasant   8 oz./250g dried lentils, soaked 8 oz./250g sorrel or watercress Mere David cream, sprigs of watercress Lettuce 2 large lettuces Pere Tranquil (lettuce contains traces of opiates) Also called Crème Judic cream Mushroom 2 lbs. mushroom   crouton   1 lb. apple   apple slices softened in butter   spring onion ginger   chopped spring onions shiitake mushrooms slices softened in butter Nettle 1 lb./500g young nettles 1 lb./500g potato Orties cream, croutons Onion 2  lbs./1Kg onion (in addition to those in the recipe)   nutmeg   make with milk   cheesy croutons   12 sage leaves   deep fried sage leaves   1 lb./500g onion 1 lb./500g potato large leek Flamande (Version b) cream Parsnip 2 lbs./1Kg parsnips   fried onions or leeks   2 tsp. curry powder       1 lb./500g turnips Nip and Nip   Pea 2 lbs./1Kg peas (frozen peas OK) 1 tbs. sugar Pois Frais extra peas     Saint Germain croutons     Suzon poached egg (preferably quail eggs)     Faubonne julienne of vegetables     Fontanges parsley, cream   large bunch mint Pois Frais a la Menthe mint sprigs   lettuce Ambassadeur chopped   lettuce/chervil/parsley/ sorrel/watercress     Saint Cloud cream swirl   1 lb./500g pear 2 bunches watercress Saint Marceaux slices of pear/watercress   1 lb./500g leek Camelia shredded leek, cream   make with mutton stock Greque(A) cream swirl/cooked white of leek/chicken breast   thicken with tapioca Lamballe julienne carrots, leeks cabbages     Longchamps cooked vermicelli , chopped parsley     Longueville spaghetti instead of vermicelli     Marigny peas, French beans, chopped parsley     Marcilly garnish with chicken quenelles     Navarin garnish with prawns, chopped parsley Pumpkin 2 lbs./1Kg pumpkin use milk Potiron cheesy croutons    1 lb. 500g leeks       4oz./500g  gruyere cheese Bresanne cooked Pasta shapes   saffron (infused in milk)       1 lb.500g tomatoes Greque (b) fried croutons   1 lb. 500g potato Marianne cheesy crouton   1 lb. 500g potato 8 oz. leeks Marichere shredded lettuce Smoked Haddock 1 lb./1Kg skinned undyed smoked haddock make with milk Chowder croutons cream poached egg bacon bits cubed cooked potato   8 oz./250g sweet corn kernels (frozen or tinned OK)     Sorrel or Spinach or Swiss Chard 1 lb./500g green leafy vegetable 1 lb./500g potato Sante cream   make with water Sport garnish with pasta Sweetcorn 2 lbs./1Kg sweet corn Mais Sweet corn kernels   2 tbs. curry powder   toasted nuts   tin crab meat   few prawns   8 oz. salted peanuts   toast rounds spread with peanut butter or chocolate spread Tomato 2 lbs./1Kg tomato 2 tbs. sugar 1 tbs. rice   basil leaves   4 oz./250g celery 4 oz./250g carrot Andalouse     chopped and de-seeded red pepper   red pepper   made with milk Carmen chopped red pepper and cream   1 lb./500g potato Malakoff shredded spinach   make with chicken stock Milanaise macaroni, truffles (or mushrooms) ham, cream     Pompadour shredded lettuce   2 tbs. rice Portugaise cooked rice   1 lb./500g potato Solferino carrot and potato balls, Turnips 1 lb. /500g turnips 1 lb.  500g potato Freneuse cream     Bonvalet chopped French beans and peas, chopped parsley   2 lbs./1kg Swede (Rutabaga) Norvegienne julienne of beetroot, cream   make with milk pinch mixed spice Vierge slices of French bread Watercress 1 lb./500g watercress 1 lb. 500g potato Cressoniere cream, crouton   sorrel, parsley, watercress or  other herbs Herbes chopped herbs (see also Sante) see also watercress and Haricot or watercress and lentil

[eGCI Team]

APPENDIX IV: APPROVED COMBINATIONS FOR VELOUTES Name: Veloute Base stock Puree or flavour Garnish/Finish Notes Agnes Sorel chicken mushroom julienne of mushrooms, chicken, tongue Celebrated beauty and Mistress of Charles VII of France (1422-1450) Bagration (gras) veal   macaroni; grated cheese (think thin mac-and-cheese) Pierre Prince Bagration (1765-1822) Russian General killed at the Battle of Borodino. Bagration Maigre fish mushroom fish quenelle   Boieldieu chicken   quenelles of chicken stuffed with foie gras (Francois Adrien) French Composer of Le Calife de Bagdad and La Dame Blanche (Q.V). One time organist of Tsar's Chapel. (1775 - 1834) Borely fish   mussels   Bourdaloue chicken rice tomato Royale (red); chicken Royale (white); haricot beans (yellow); asparagus Royale (green); carrot Royale (orange) French cleric and preacher 1632-1704 Cambaceres pigeon crayfish bisque pigeon quenelles stuffed with crayfish Jean, Jacques Cambacérès, Regis de Cambaceré 1753 - 1824. Duke of Palma Cardinal       See Homard Named after Cardinal Richelieu? Carmelite fish fish: sole and whiting; lemon juice quenelle of filets of sole and fish quenelle Religious order Carmen chicken tomato; rice dice of tomato and red pepper Bizet’s Opera Caroline chicken almonds; cream of rice Roayle with almond milk   Celeri ordinary celery celery   Ceres chicken green wheat cream   Chanoinesse fish crayfish soft roes in butter Cannoness Chartreuse chicken   dice of tomato small ravioli stuffed with spinach, foie gras, and chopped mushrooms; chervil   Cherville game Rabbit morels, rabbit meat, cream, madeira   Chervreuse chicken semolina; cream julienne of truffles, and chicken;   Chicoree ordinary endive fried bread croutons   Choisy chicken lettuce sorrel and rice See Judic Clermont ordinary celery and chestnut roundels of fried onions and small balls of chestnut puree; cream   Columbine pigeon flavour with caraway julienne of pigeon fillets and quenelles   Comtesse ordinary asparagus lettuce chiffonade; asparagus tips   Cressonniere ordinary watercress watercress  leaves   Pourpier   purslane     Crevettes a la Mignon fish shrimps oyster juice fish quenelles, ½ pink, ½ white, green peas, truffles cream   Crevettes a la Normande     shrimp tails, poached oysters, butter, cream   D’Artois ordinary White haricot beans parsley; brunoise of vegetables  Dartois (or a la d'Artois) is the name of various recipes dedicated to the name of Comte d'Artois, the future King Charles X of France (1824-1830). Dame Blanche chicken sweet almond cream white of chicken and chicken quenelle Comic Opera by Boieldieu from the novel by Sir Walter Scott Danoise ordinary cucumber fried bread crouton     duck artichoke duck, mushrooms, style='font-size:10.0pt;line-height:120%;font-family:Verdana'>marsala   Dieppoise fish mussels, leeks, mushrooms mussels, shrimp tails   Derby ordinary soubise (browned onion, rice) chicken quenelles stuffed with foie gras, rice, cream       curry     Diane partridge   game quenelles, truffles,cream, style='font-size:10.0pt;line-height:120%;font-family:Verdana'>Madeira   Divette fish   fish quenelles, truffle, dice of crayfish         Butter and cream   Doria   cucumber cucumber balls, rice, cream Daughter of Labouchré, married Prince de Rudini Dubarry   cauliflower small cauliflower florets, parsley, cream Marie Jeanne Gomard de Vaubernier, Comtesse Dubarry (1741-1793) Mistress of Louis XV. Ecreivisses a la Joinville fish crayfish (prawn) crayfish tails, julienne of mushrooms, butter and cream serve with glass of fine champagne Francots de Joinville, Duc d´Orleans third, son of Louis Philippe. Sailor and author (1818-1900) Ecreivisses a la Lucullus     crayfish tails Cognac Lucullus lived in Ancient Rome from "15%"-57BC Ecreivisses a la Princesse     whiting quenelles, asparagus tips butter and cream serve with glass of fine champagne   Elisa chicken sorrel sorrel and chervil cream and butter   Excelsior   barley pearl barley       green asparagus     Fanchette chicken asparagus stuffed lettuce leaves cut into roundels, peas   Favouri chicken asparagus lettuce asparagus tips, shredded sorrel cream   Gasconne tomato onion dice of confit of goose   Georgette   artichoke bottoms tapioca or sago pearls       tomato carrot tapioca flour cream   Germinal chicken with tarragon   asparagus tips, chervil   Gosford   green asparagus tapioca cream   Homard d’Cardinal fish  lobster lobster royale   Homard a Cleveland   lobster Americaine tomato cubes; lobster meat Omit the egg yolk liaison; like Lobster Bisque but thickened with roux rather than rice Homard a l’indienne   lobster Americaine with curry lobster meat;  cooked rice This is where the unsold prepared lobster was recycled Homard a L’orientale   lobster Newburg lobster meat; cooked rice Crayfish, prawns, shrimp, or crab may be substituted for lobster Homard au Paprika   with paprika red pepper   Homard au Persane   as Orientale but with pilaff rice, saffron and cubes of red pepper     Indienne chicken Curry rice coconut milk   Idma chicken   curried chicken quenelles asparagus tips cream   Isoline chicken crayfish (prawn) butter tapioca pearls   Jacqueline fish   carrots, peas, asparagus tips, rice   Japonaise   Japanese artichokes small crouton   Jean Bart fish   fish quenelles tomato Dice macaroni julienne of leek   Jeanette chicken salsify rice, dice of chcken   Joinville fish crayfish truffles mushrooms butter cream Francois de Joinville, Duc d´Orleans Sailor and author (1818-1900). Juanita   rice chicken quenelles hard boiled egg yolks tomato dice cream   Laitue   lettuce fried croutons chervil/parsley cream   La Valliere chicken celery Royale and dice of celery (profiteroles stuffed with chicken) cream Louise de la Baume le Blanc Duchesse de Lavalliere. Court “favourite” of Louis XIV. Lison   rice celery tapioca or sago pearls   Mais   sweet corn grains of sweet corn cream   Marcilly chicken peas Sago or tapioca chicken quenelles butter and Cream   Marie Louise Marie Stuart chicken barley cream macaroni; brunoise brunoise; pearl barley; carrot balls Empress of France, second wife of Napoleon Bonaparte Martha chicken onion chicken quenelles stuffed with vegetable brunoise; green peas; chervil/parsley cream   Mathurine Fish   salmon quenelles   Milanaise chicken tomato macaroni, julienne of whit mushrooms (truffles), ham   Mogador chicken foie gras chicken, tongue julienne, truffles   Montespan   asparagus tapioca, peas   Montorgueil chicken   vegetables, shredded sorrel, chervil/parsley   Morilles   morels morels   Nelusko chicken grilled nuts chicken quenelles   Nivernais ordinary carrot brunoise of carrot   Nymphes fish   royale and dice of frogs legs   Orge   barley pearl barley   Orties   nettles fried croutons cream   Oseille a l’Avoine   oats sorrel shredded sorrel cream   Oyster Fish Oyster 4 poached oysters per serving Delicate. Doesn’t hold Petit-Duc   woodcock dice of woodcock fillets,  game royale glass of brandy   Pierre-le-Grand chicken mushrooms julienne of carrot and celery. serve with a glass of vodka Peter The Great, Emporer of Russia     celeriac dice of celeriac   Poireaux   leeks fried crouton   Regence fish barley crayfish chicken quenelles pearl barley   Riz chicken Rice rice   Saint-Hubert game   dice of game, truffles, red currant jelly, brandy   Sultane chicken sweet almond milk pistachio butter crescents of chicken and crayfish forcemeat; truffled Pink crescents in a pale green soup Windsor wtrong: originally calves foot rice turtle herbs (thyme, bay) chicken quenelles with hard boiled yolk of egg,  julienne of stock meat As “Brown Windsor” it was the typical, and much abused thick brown soup  Xavier   rice sherry Royale chicken