517 replies to this topic

[ghostrider]

That's what I figured.

Now I'm wondering if "celtic vinegar" is a made-up term. It qualifies as a "googlewhack" - a search yields only one result, which is, of course, the Hugo's menu page.

Edit: ooops, not a true googlewhack. That's two words which yield only one result without enclosing them in quotation marks.

Edited by ghostrider, 18 July 2005 - 09:25 AM.

[dinwiddie]

That's what  I figured.

Now I'm wondering  if "celtic vinegar" is a made-up term.  It qualifies as a "googlewhack" - a search yields only one result, which is, of course, the Hugo's menu page.

Edit: ooops, not a true googlewhack.  That's two words which yield only one result without enclosing them in quotation marks.

Well they had locally churned butter, maybe he bought the vinegar from a Celt.

[OwnReward]

That's what  I figured.

Well they had locally churned butter, maybe he bought the vinegar from a Celt.

Actually, It's an old French Canadian recipe for good cider vinegar with ground up leprechauns in it.
Karen

[Steve Klc]

I just realized I never actually posted back about our meals, but the whole time I was at Hugo's I thought about how you should be working there, Siren, even if only on your day off, because if you are in food, and hope to continue to make a career of it, you need to see what this place is doing--it's interesting, full of finesse, and its experiments with flavor, which might seem contrived or calculated on paper, actually work, all of them. I think they've gotten better, even with Chef Evans positioning himself as more edgy and eclectic, they've remedied the few minor concerns I had from the last time I was there--the main one being improving their dessert program, and frankly you'd have to say Hugo's rivals the best restaurants in the country now. (I had written on eG previously that it just might have become the most interesting restaurant in New England, pulling even with Clio.) I can't wait to go back in August, when I'll again be visiting the culinary wasteland known as the White Mountain Valley.

Everyone posting here either living in Portland or planning a trip to Portland, I hope you realize how lucky you are: Portland, already a dynamic scene, is still on the upswing, it hasn't reached anywhere near its full potential yet, there's this hip, edgy vibe that blends well with the tourists and the shopping and yet ties in the older neighborhoods--and that doesn't happen everywhere. This visit, it struck me there was a lot more development going on over on the East side near Hugo's--I wandered by a new bakery/patisserie space, not officially opened yet, maybe called Fat Cats--my memory now is really weak--but I think they sold some pies at Standard Baking. Going east down the Hugo's street there was this stuck-in-time Italian grocery--Grimaldis or Grucini or ? (a little help here...) I hadn't noticed before and a BBQ place and Ribollita and Duckat, which we did not get to go to after all for their fries--I misread when they opened and just couldn't wait an hour. This is going to be a happening culinary scene, a nice mix of old and new, high and low. And you can park right out front.

Also, I noticed a few other changes down in the touristy waterfront: wasn't Mim's once a tapas bar--and now it's a brasserie? What happened--ownership change or concept change? Has the food here ever lived up to its location? And what happened to that gem of a place: the Portland Greengrocer? It looks prettier but it's a shell of its former self in terms of depth and selection of products. Still, I like their wine buyer's taste--when I'm visiting in NH I always come over here to buy wines for the week--but so much was lost with their remodel.

What we ended up doing was 555 for brunch one day and Hugo's for dinner on another. I've had so many perfunctory brunches in NH that I was determined not to have another one, so we took a gamble, and a drive, to Portland. My impression of 555? Very committed, very professional, very strong service that wasn't rushed--in a relaxed neighborhood atmosphere--I was impressed they had 4 cooks in the kitchen for brunch even though only that little area on the ground floor was open--and everything we had was perfect, especially the hangar, the grilled caesar, and a bunch of cheeses, my favorite a double cream quebec cheese. I can't recommend this place enough, it's less expensive than you'd expect, it's welcoming rather than stiff, and I'm definitely going for dinner next time. I drank a nice microbrew at this brunch but peeked at the wine list: first impression it didn't seem anywhere near as interesting or well-chosen as the Hugo's list.

Back to Hugo's and Siren, sneak into there by hook or by crook for inspiration: if money is an issue, don't hold out for the full multi-course tasting: you should just go in to the bar, sit at those cafe tables along the window and spend $9 on a different single dish whenever you can, it'll be worth it for any budding cook.

What didn't change from previous visits to Hugo's? Service was still superb, and very good food wines can still be had for $24 to $30 or so. What did change? I thought his plates were even more beautiful than before, it seems to me he's made more of a conscious effort to appear experimental with exotic or seemingly disparate ingredients, and while that can come off as too precious in the wrong hands, it doesn't here. He's learned his lessons well, and he's a good judge of himself: everything he and his team had on the menu holds up taste-wise. The desserts on previous visits were always weakpoints and he's straightened that out, too: all of the current desserts are excellent (and I hardly ever say that, even about my own stuff.) We had everything on this menu when we dined except the trout, and though the menu has probably changed by now, I would order everything again--and share less with others:


F I R S T C O U R S E

Maine Raised Rabbit Charcuterie
grainy mustard mousse . pistachio . celtic vinegar. salted lavash

Shiitake Mushroom Terrine
locally foraged vegetables . parmesan ice cream . stinging nettle coulis

Chilled Melon Soup
imported prosciutto . hand dipped ricotta . grilled watermelon gelée

Cold Smoked Hamachi
sushi style potatoes . key lime compote . sweet soy

S E C O N D

Flash Fried Scottish Salmon Cake & Carpaccio
cucumber & radish . cilantro emulsion . sesame

Warm Asparagus & Sunnyside Duck Egg Salad
white anchovy . pasta . puffed lobster cracker . orange-coriander vinaigrette

Red Beet Risotto
tempura pickled fiddleheads . westfield farm capri . grapefruit hibiscus soda

Honey Mead Glazed Pork Belly & Baby Back Ribs
rhubarb relish . cocoa nibs . chipotle emulsion

T H I R D

Chorizo Crusted Atlantic Halibut
potato brown butter galette . multiple onion preparations

Sous Vide Lamb Loin & Caramelized Shoulder
savory buckwheat carrot cake . vanilla walnuts . birch essence

Maple Glazed Tasmanian Sea Trout
fennel & pineapple cannelloni . tomato salad . horseradish . smoked trout roe

Crispy Skin Duck Breast & Slow Cooked Leg
licorice stick bread pudding . bing cherry relish . orange emulsion

L A S T

Mita Cana Spanish Sheep’s Milk “Cheese Cake”
golden graham tuile . poached grapes . tarragon syrup

Rhubarb & Yogurt Panna Cotta
deconstructed strawberry pie

El Rey Dark Chocolate Fondant
tonka bean milk shake . chocolate crisps. cherries . long pepper

Foie Gras Ice Cream Float
orange infused saba soda . foie gras beignet

I especially liked this last dish, the foie gras in dessert concept. Liked it more than merely a concept, though, it was delicious.

I'll hit Duckfat in August. Oh, another thing I was impressed with: I pulled the above menu off their website the day before we arrived, and it actually reflected what was being offered in the restaurant, with a very minor tweak here or there once the dishes were served. That demonstrates a commitment from beginning to end, and it's something that small restaurateurs sometimes overlook as they get a little fame, a little media, and begin to grow their empire. I'm happy to say that hasn't happened yet.

[Siren]

that is a great piece, steve. This weekend is 'campers weekend' in portland---which means that the parents are dropping their kids off at camp and the parents are enjoying the town... needless to say, I drove by HUGO's tonight and there was a line out the door. Same with 555 and duckfat. Made me smile. I know where I work, we were booked up as of last week for the weekend. Not a place in the city will be spared from the crowds, so you were wise to come up earlier.
2 fat cats is owned by dana street--of street and co./fore st. fame... and it's gotten amazing reviews. Mim's I haven't been to yet, but I always recommend it when people are looking for a lunch place when they come into our restaurant(which is only open for dinner). But, yea, it's a bit different from what I hear it was(i've lived in portland for about 9 months now).

I think we're looking @ late august to try hugo's--anniversary dinner thing.. his menu really blows me away and I was in awe of chef evans when he was in @ duckfat one day when my gf and I were there.

Edited by Siren, 22 July 2005 - 09:47 PM.

[fatdeko]

Steve:
Thanks for your apropos props to Portland, particularly it's "neighbor-hood-ness". A former DC'er myself, I was struck by the same thing when I moved here 3 yrs ago. Give us a shout when you come up in August and let's get a drink. I'd love to hear what Chris Vazguez is up to and where Kevin Delaney is now etc, etc.

It just occured to me: Of course you "get" Hugo's. Everytime I've eaten there, I was reminded of Cafe Atlantico's deconstuctionist sort of innovations. Different, of course, but similar. And folks just look at me cross-eyed when I tell them to grind Altoids and sprinkle them on their oysters. But then again, I looked at Thrasher cross-eyed when he told me the same thing.

The name of the Italian Grocery is Miccuci's. It's awesome. The first thing that hits you when you walk in is the smell! It absolutely reeks of cold cuts, cheeses, olives,and on and on. Plus, they carry SanBitter.
Prtland Green Grocer had an issue with a new neighbor who has rights to their right-of-way in the back alley. They forbade Green Grocer from accepting deliveries to their back door so they've truncated their offerings and their space. No more greens at the Green Grocer, but good wines, good deli and some specialties.

myers

PS: Siren: your avatar reminds me of NatalieDee.com

Edited by fatdeko, 24 July 2005 - 12:26 PM.

[fatdeko]

Cafe Atlantico, one of DC's best restaurants, used to grind up altoids into fine powder and sprinkle some on raw oysters. Weird, but wow!

myers

[CSASphinx]

Everyone posting here either living in Portland or planning a trip to Portland, I hope you realize how lucky you are: Portland, already a dynamic scene, is still on the upswing, it hasn't reached anywhere near its full potential yet, there's this hip, edgy vibe that blends well with the tourists and the shopping and yet ties in the older neighborhoods--and that doesn't happen everywhere. This visit, it struck me there was a lot more development going on over on the East side near Hugo's--I wandered by a new bakery/patisserie space, not officially opened yet, maybe called Fat Cats--my memory now is really weak--but I think they sold some pies at Standard Baking. Going east down the Hugo's street there was this stuck-in-time Italian grocery--Grimaldis or Grucini or ? (a little help here...) I hadn't noticed before and a BBQ place and Ribollita and Duckat, which we did not get to go to after all for their fries--I misread when they opened and just couldn't wait an hour. This is going to be a happening culinary scene, a nice mix of old and new, high and low. And you can park right out front.

What we ended up doing was 555 for brunch one day and Hugo's for dinner on another. I've had so many perfunctory brunches in NH that I was determined not to have another one, so we took a gamble, and a drive, to Portland. My impression of 555? Very committed, very professional, very strong service that wasn't rushed--in a relaxed neighborhood atmosphere--I was impressed they had 4 cooks in the kitchen for brunch even though only that little area on the ground floor was open--and everything we had was perfect, especially the hangar, the grilled caesar, and a bunch of cheeses, my favorite a double cream quebec cheese.  I can't recommend this place enough, it's less expensive than you'd expect, it's welcoming rather than stiff, and I'm definitely going for dinner next time.  I drank a nice microbrew at this brunch but peeked at the wine list: first impression it didn't seem anywhere near as interesting or well-chosen as the Hugo's list.   

Steve,

Thanks for this. I haven't been able to check the site for some time and was getting a bit cranky with the tone of the early posts in this thread.

The Italian grocery you're thinking of is called Miccucci's. Great place. We make special trips there just for the deli counter (Reggiano is a staple for us at home and it's the only realiable place in town to get it -- cheese offerings at the Public Market notwithstanding. Still it makes me miss Models Market, a real old world place I visited as a kid at Christmas time....I think it probably closed 10 years ago. Anyone who watches local news should note that it was owned by the father and grandfather of Channel 6 sportscaster Lee Goldberg.

Also, while I understand how with only one night in town you would choose Hugo's, please do yourself the favor of getting to 555 for dinner next time you are here. I know I'm an old saw regarding them, but Hugo's aside, I think they do the best job overall in town.

My only complaint recently would be that the menu seems a little stagnant. But I believe that is due to the fact that repeat business in Portland is even more important than in other cities, most people here tend to be pretty conservative when it comes to challenging their palate (my wife included), and heck, if you have an entree that consistently sells well, it doesn't make that much sense to take it off for something else....one of the realities of Portland.

That said, I still think the chef, Steve Corry, is talented enought to stretch his wings a little more than he does.

But this is a very, very small complaint. It is still my favorite place to go in town.

As for Mims...yes, that used to be a lot of different things and I can't rmember the name before it changed, but the focus was Caribbean food, I believe. But I haven't been to Mims as I've heard mixed things. Of course this is all hearsay.

Other places of note, and I think some have already mentioned them: Uffa; Katahdin; Local 188; Dogfish is interesting but more as a lunch place, I think; Pepper Club; and an odl favorite Back Bay Grill, which honestly we haven't been to all that frequently lately, though my impression was the menu was becoming less staid and more ambitious.

Chris

[johnnyd]

eGullet member Aquitaine popped into town yesterday for a look around, so we went to my favorite sushi place YOSAKU. The chef/owner used to buy big tuna from day boats in the harbor here and ship them off to Japan. He knows fish. Now he is holding court in a terrific location (#1 Danforth St) next to the statue of Portland Native, film director John Ford.

We sat outside by the little Japanese garden under a pink umbrella. On the way out to the deck I asked Tak if he had any Mentaiko, a spicy cod-fish roe, and indeed he did. It's a challenging flavor, but one of my favorites. Aquitane and I had never met before but quickly lost ourselves in conversation. This was the first time I had met an eGullet member so there was an instant bond of recognition and familiarity.

We had Maguro Sashimi, Toro Sashimi (and Sushi!), Hamachi Sashimi and Sushi, Bonito, Bincho Maguro, Beni-Sake, Ika with Shiso leaf, and Mentaiko Sushi. We took a bite of toro and glanced at each other, both nodding our heads, struggling to smile with our mouths full and going "...mmmmm!" There wasn't a bad piece in the bunch. Aquitane decided the Ika was a bit too much but was game to try a tiny bit of mentaiko in spite of her avoidance of all things egg-y (and roe-ey). We can agree that eGers are more likely to try something new than the masses at-large. Bravo!

We also had some nice cold sake, a first for Aquitane. I don't remember the brand but it was crisp and just right. I confess I ate the lion's share of our beautiful plate of tasty morsels and we split the bill, but if Aquitane decides to move here I'll have lots of opportunity to help her sort out the "good places" in return. Portland has recently been named among the top 20 places to live by Outside magazine. I was living in Burlington VT when that town got listed in Outside and within a year the place transformed itself.

I dropped Aquitaine off at the Portland Public Market as she was searching for some decent olive oil. Could have been a mistake: with so much to see, she might still be there!

Edited by johnnyd, 29 July 2005 - 05:34 AM.

[Aquitaine]

Boy, SOME people are just way too quick with their posts! to Johnny D....

Yes, indeed enjoyed my lunch with JohnnyD yesterday -- he very graciously accepted the spur of the moment invite, I braved the Maine Turnpike and parking in the Old Port, and we met up about 2 hours later. We had a lovely setting and scrumptious dead aqua creatures (I did voice my ecological concern about tuna and salmon being overfished, but maybe for an occasional treat? ) and I received enlightenment re Portland. Very much looking forward to future explorations and pal-ing around. Nicely detailed report, JohnnyD...

OK, call me a spoiled, fussy New Yorker, but am I missing something about the Public Market? It really seems oriented to tourists, like Faneuil Hall, et al. No olive oil for me.... I'm going to have to bite the bullet and drive to a Trader Joe's for my olive oil....or shlep it up from New York on Amtrak and hope the bottle doesn't break en route... I grew up in Seacoast NH and have returned here for the nonce, but I DO struggle with not being able to find certain *basic* food items around here, either easily or at reasonable prices. It SHOULD be a tradeoff easily made -- beautiful environment trounces all....

CSASphinx, glad to hear about Five Fifty-Five -- it's a place I've been wanting to try out.

Well, I'm off to pick blueberries, one of my favorite summer things to do -- although these are cultivated -- at a farm. (When I was a child, we used to pick lowbush berries near the neighboring town's dump, our poodle traipsing along and enjoying every nibble. But one picks blueberries wherever one finds them -- particularly nice surprise when hiking. Good blueberry picking in Rhode Island, too, somewhere near Essex, I believe; a well known farm stand there also has blueberry fields.) Shortcake on the menu tonight!

[CSASphinx]

Olive oil....you should have popped into the above-mentioned Miccucci's and you would have had your pick of sizes....we get the big tins, but there are plenty of smaller-sized bottles. Spanish, Italian, some Greek too, I think.

Ah, blueberries.

I, too, used to pick great big buckets at my grandparents place in Bridgton, Maine out in the field. Lots of them...this a few months after we ventured out for wild strawberries (enough for my grandmother to make a couple dozen jars of wild strawberry preserves -- YUM!)

She'd serve these over plattar, a crepe-like, thin, eggy pancakes. She'd also make blueberry preserves and we'd have it on the plattar when the wild strawberries ran out.

[johnnyd]

OK, call me a spoiled, fussy New Yorker,

Okay, you're a spoiled, fussy New Yorker!

you should have popped into the above-mentioned Miccucci's

Very true, this. I'm afraid I have to plead guilty to being short on time and thought the variety at the PPM would be entertaining for the short amount of time Aquitaine had in town. Miccuccis was a bit out of the way at the time. Instead there is now something to look forward on your return Aq!

It really seems oriented to tourists, like Faneuil Hall, et al.

Bingo!

[dinwiddie]

I hope you will not take askance that I'm posting since I am only a tourist when it comes to Portland, but we just got back a couple of weeks ago and I had some very good meals while there. And since I live in DC and eat out several times a week, I am fairly picky about restaurants. BTW, I cribbed this from my notes from another thread about Portland that is a little below this one.

One night we ate at 555. It was very nice, but the Grilled salad (greens with roasted peaches, bing cherrys, and pecans) was over sauced and the scallops were a little salty. However, the rest of the meal, mussels and a hanger steak, was excellent, the service very good, and the price not unreasonable. The restaurant itself is a pretty place and they were very friendly. The wine list was fun and fairly extensive. I was a little concerned when they brought the 2002 vintage of the Fess Parker PN I ordered when the 2001 was listed on the menu, but they were quick to point it out before I read the bottle and explained that they were out of the 2001. The last time I was in Portland, Abeurgene was in this space, but 555 is a pretty good replacement.

However, we had two better meals while there. My first choice would be Cinque Terre (right across from Street and Co)on Wharf Street. We had the 6 course tasting menu for $55. It started with oysters two ways (a Darmisgrotta raw and a Prince Edward Island fried) then crab and fresh peas risotto with white truffel oil. Next was the lobster tail with bread crumbs and basil oil. It was followed by a perfectly cooked hanger steak with chantrelle mushrooms. The next course was cheese, pecorina and toma with peanut jelly and an italian baggette. Last was the dessert, lemon grappa panna cotta and maple gelato with biscotta. Service was exceptional and the wine list, while all and only Italian wine, was very reasonably priced, very extensive and long, and very representative of Italy. They also had a nice selection by the glass. I had a 2000 Antinori Toscana Tignanello which was exceptionally well priced at $100.

Our other great meal was at Hugo's. A four course meal for $60. The food was excellent, very well presented (maybe a little over the top, but really pretty), and the service very good. I ordered two half bottles (a 2002 Daniel Dampt Cablis and a 1996 Chateau Meyney St. Estephe) since it was only the two of us. For our first courses I had Maine raised rabbit chartiterie with grainy mustand mousse, pistaschio, and celtic vinegar. My wife had the smoked shitake mushrooms and asparagus with capri pasta, milk foam and lily buds. The second course for her was the crispy skin loup de mer (rockfish this time) with artichoke en croute, basil seeks and warm olive oil panna cota. I had the honey mead glazed pork belly with sweet potato tot, tomatillo relish and ginger red pepper coulis. Third was the pan roasted tasmanian sea trout with fried fennel, pineapple salad and smoked trout roe. I had the Sous Vide duck breast and leg with golden beet, kola nut pudding and pickled plum. For dessert I had a superb Mita Cana Spanish sheeps milk cheese cake while my wife had the Maine rhubarb and pineapple with Greek yogert panna cotta and Thai basil. The plates may have looked skimpy, but we left stuffed. Very pretty place, but unless you want to sit in high bar type chairs, don't take a table in the window.

Another excellent meal was at the Roma Cafe on Congress Street. Excellent Italian food. We just walked in late (at about 9:30 and they stop serving at 10) but we were treated extremely well and the food was delish. Nice place, white linens and soft music, excellent service. I started with the fresh mozzarella and plum tomatoes with roasted peppers, pesto and garlic crostini. It was out of this world. The pesto was some of the best I've had in a long time. My wife had the calamari and it was perfect. For entrees we had the pasta de mer, perfectly prepared and full of lots and lots of seafood (I got to eat the mussels since she doesn't like them) and a wonderful duck breast rubbed in jerk spices and served in pan juices. Very enjoyable but we felt guilty about keeping the staff there just for us as everyone else had finished and gone by the time we started our entrees.

I was at Fore Street a couple of years ago when I was in Portland on business. I had a great meal and the bread was wonderful. I liked the wine list too. I was eating by myself, but I got a nice table, the service was very good, and I was impressed by how well I was treated as a single diner. One funny, just before I finished my meal, a group of young women came in, a bridal party the day before the big event. They were looking at he wine list trying to figure out what they could afford. I had a bottle of a nice Panther Creek PN, and since there was about a glass left in the bottle and I didn't particularly want to carry it to the hotel, I offered the rest to the table saying I wasn't going to finish it and I didn't want it to go to waste. As I was leaving I heard on of the bridesmaids exclaim, "Do you see how much that bottle cost?!?" I thought it was reasonably priced but I guess they aren't into wine as much as I was. I hope they enjoyed it.

[Siren]

I love the last part about the bridesmaids.... you definately rock for that kind gesture.

I'm getting to know the pastry chef at Cinque Terre--she also does their pasta. Great girl..dreadhead, but I have yet to head over there for some dessert one night.

I have never been to Fore St. and am curious to know, from you guys, if the FOH is as bad as people say. I've only encountered them once, when I had to go there to get some basil and the one woman was great but the younger girl was not so pleasant. It's also been a topic of contention over on mainetoday.com in the dining area.

[vhilts]

It's been a while so I don't know if they're still even around, but a little mom and pop Italian restaurant (up on the hill as I recall) had the best meatballs and red sauce that I ever had, including Philly and NY/NJ best....!

[dinwiddie]

I love the last part about the bridesmaids.... you definately rock for that kind gesture.

I'm getting to know the pastry chef at Cinque Terre--she also does their pasta. Great girl..dreadhead, but I have yet to head over there for some dessert one night.

I have never been to Fore St. and am curious to know, from you guys, if the FOH is as bad as people say. I've only encountered them once, when I had to go there to get some basil and the one woman was great but the younger girl was not so pleasant. It's also been a topic of contention over on mainetoday.com in the dining area.

Better to share than let go to waste, though I guess the waitstaff would have finished it. BTW, nothing wrong with dreads, from one deadhead to another.

[fatdeko]

I love the last part about the bridesmaids.... you definately rock for that kind gesture.

I'm getting to know the pastry chef at Cinque Terre--she also does their pasta. Great girl..dreadhead, but I have yet to head over there for some dessert one night.

I have never been to Fore St. and am curious to know, from you guys, if the FOH is as bad as people say. I've only encountered them once, when I had to go there to get some basil and the one woman was great but the younger girl was not so pleasant. It's also been a topic of contention over on mainetoday.com in the dining area.

Better to share than let go to waste, though I guess the waitstaff would have finished it. BTW, nothing wrong with dreads, from one deadhead to another.

[susiew]

When I'm in Portland my sister and I often go to Walter's, which is a good reliable lunch spot. (She comes down from downeast Maine specifically with going to Walter's in mind, but that may be more a reflection on the cuisine selection up there! )

[Siren]

i have been by walters many times, but have never gone in... There is a new soul food place up on Deering, just in from Congress street(where the old Stone Soup Cafe was). It's called "Honey's" and I'm telling everyone about it. Thursday night they have Oxtails over White Rice w/Cornbread for 8.95 and I just about started crying when I took the first bite--probably the first time in over a year that I've had it.
And, fwiw, the former exec chef @ street and co. will be opening up a place in very late fall in the West End. Definately a neighborhood place, regardless of the price, that I"ll practically be living at.

[Steve Klc]

Does that place have a tentative name yet Siren?

while I understand how with only one night in town you would choose Hugo's, please do yourself the favor of getting to 555 for dinner next time you are here

will do, CSASphinx, already planned to, I was really impressed with their brunch.

My only complaint recently would be that the menu seems a little stagnant. But I believe that is due to the fact that repeat business in Portland is even more important than in other cities, most people here tend to be pretty conservative when it comes to challenging their palate (my wife included), and heck, if you have an entree that consistently sells well, it doesn't make that much sense to take it off for something else....one of the realities of Portland.

That said, I still think the chef, Steve Corry, is talented enought to stretch his wings a little more than he does

Have you e-mailed Corry to let him know you'd support him changing things around more?

Much the same could be said of DC and many, many other cities. I think it's the nature of food--in the case of 555 maybe location plays a part--it's up off the waterfront and may have to play more to locals. That said, there is an advantage to not changing much of the menu when you are a neighborhood restaurant--it helps you keep costs down, there's less waste, ordering is easier and it's easier to train your staff in terms of what they have to do, repetitively, day in and day out. You might even be able to take an actual day off, play with the kids, sleep. If the customer base you're tapping into stays loyal, it's win-win--the thing is, there's a downside: this same customer base that has had the grilled caesar 10 times will know when it comes out sub-par. If that base hopes for more and searches elsewhere, and a chef is self-aware and self-critical, he'll realize why and adapt. Me, if I lived in Portland, I'd willingly return for that same simple perfect hangar again and again. But yes, I too would kind of slot it (and the chef) in that "I know what I'm gonna get" category and it might eventually prevent me from returning more often. But I frequent a few places that tend toward the safe and conservative--MOST places in DC are safe and conservative--and I actually don't want them to stretch, I don't want them to try to challenge, I want their perfect hangar: they do what they do well, and I can appreciate them for that. Not saying that's the case with 555, I obviously haven't been there enough to know, I'm just saying there may be good reasons to hope a restaurant doesn't step outside itself--as long as it doesn't also start to mail it in.

I also haven't had really good blueberries yet, the stuff we get in DC from New Jersey and Michigan have disappointed. So I'm hopeful you have better luck locally. I remain really excited for everyone up there in Portland, I think the volume of reports on this thread (and over time on eG) confirm something good is going on and I can't wait to come back up.

[johnnyd]

The blueberries are in. I bought a pound of wild ones for $5 last weekend.

[johnnyd]

There is a new soul food place up on Deering, just in from Congress street(where the old Stone Soup Cafe was). It's called "Honey's" and I'm telling everyone about it. Thursday night they have Oxtails over White Rice w/Cornbread for 8.95 and I just about started crying when I took the first bite--probably the first time in over a year that I've had it.

Went in to "Honey's Place" Thursday afternoon and instantly fell in love with the place. Sharon Moore is the tireless, cheery owner/chef with, I suspect, her two daughters tending the front counter. Sharon said it was a mess when she signed on the place. She clearly has an eye for composition as her choices of paintings and african sculpture which adorn the walls and shop-front window augment the simple pine wainscotting and VCT flooring. Great music too.

The menu, as Siren said, has daily specials including pig's feet and ample BBQ choices. I had a lunch size portion of (what else?) fried chicken with corn bread for $6.95 and a mound of perfect collard greens for an additional $2.95. It was crisp, hot, not over-spiced, just right.

Sharon opened July 29th and says business is good. "No one does this food in Portland," she said. No one can touch this place if they dare try.

[Siren]

Johnny, we ate at Honey's last night--again :) It's so nice that it's just around the corner from our apartment. I had exactly what you had and it's just absolutely the best fried chicken I've had in my life. Sharon is such a kind woman, too and I hope that place is around for a long time. I have been telling any and everyone about Honey's.

Steve--Abbey did tell me the name and I know I would bastardize it, but it her partners family's last name. It's located right next to Aurora Provisions on Pine.

[johnnyd]

Steve--Abbey did tell me the name and I know I would bastardize it, but it her partners family's last name. It's located right next to Aurora Provisions on Pine.

A handy arrangement, that: when Aurora's closes, Abbey opens so parking is neatly shared. Looking forward to it.

[johnnyd]

Went to Katahdin the other night. There were three of us.

Soup of the day was a tomato/artichoke with fontina. Nicely balanced, sublime.
Damariscotta Oysters w/mignonette
Halibut on a garlic smashed potato island topped with a cherry tomato salsa was melt in your mouth.
Seared scallops on beet green and lobster/nectarine reduction: phenomenal.
Roast duck in blackberry sauce was perfect.
Mondavi Pinot Grigio won the vote but there were other nice choices.

They serve the best martinis in town. Barkeep has been at it for over ten years there.

About $200 with tip but truly the best meal all summer. Worth every penny... except the oysters at $20 per half dozen bugged me a little. It was Mom's last night in town so what-the-hey?

Edited by johnnyd, 21 August 2005 - 06:00 AM.

[Siren]

Aurora's is closing? Sharon, from Honey's, told me she had originally looked @ Abby's site.. small friggin town..

[johnnyd]

Aurora's is closing?  Sharon, from Honey's, told me she had originally looked @ Abby's site.. small friggin town..

No, silly! Aurora's closes at around 5pm, so when Abby opens for dinner, her customers use the same lot.

[Siren]

oh, jeesh.... silly me...

So, we nixed Hugo's because of $$ and ate VERY well at BiBo's Madd Apple Cafe and it was AMAZING!

We had:
Artichoke and Goat cheese rangoon w/sundried tomato paste
Lobster and Crab stuffed Portobello w/ mixed greens and balsamic
Bread and Dukkah(which they have just discovered @ my work--to my knowledge--it's just fabulous)
Soy Glazed salmon w/israeli couscous
Coconut curry shrimp and scallops w/watermelon kimchee and potatoes
2 coffee's
Mint chocolate creme brulee
Glass of pinot gris
2 glasses of a belgin style ale w/green apple

all for about what one meal and 2 glasses of wine would have cost us @ hugo's... and, while I know you really can't compare the two, when you're on a major budget getting every penny's worth and then some is important.

[johnnyd]

Portland keeps growing...

Went to Lucky's Vietnamese Restaurant at 349 Cumberland Avenue on the recommendation of a Vietnamese colleague from work. I had Pho for the first time. It was amazing. A big bowl of wonderful broth with lots of goodies including beef and tendon. I've been back twice. Prices are too low: nothing over $7.

Tu Casa Restaurante Salvadoreno, reviewed here, looks promising. Fried plaintains, taquitos (3 for $6.50), beef quesedillas ($4.25) and tamarind soda or Guarana in a little hole in the wall with spanish cable-TV programs.

I am dying to try Shahnaz Persian Grille at 795 Forest Ave. which opened last month. They serve Ghormeh Sabzi ($8.95) sautéed beef, and fenugreek, chives, parsley, all simmered together with dried lime and kidney beans; Fessenjan ($8.95), chicken simmered in a combination of ground walnuts and a sweet-and-sour pomegranate sauce. They are aiming for a take-out clientele but they have three small tables and sell a variety of Persian spice products: pomegranate paste, turmeric and cardamom, rosewater, orange-blossom water, dried crushed lime pieces, sour cherry syrup, red melon seeds and more.

[Boo]

Has anyone been to Walter's recently? We're heading up to Portland next month and trying to decide where to book two dinners, a lunch and brunch. Last time we really enjoyed dinners at Local 158 and Thanh Thanh II, lunch at Scales and brunch at Friendship Cafe. I'd like to try Duck Fat this time. Really high end places are out because we'll have our three year old with us. I see the good reviews of Madd Apple Cafe and Katahdin here, so I'm thinking about those. Too many places, too little time, that's the problem! Thank you for any suggestions.