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Sorbet: Tips, Techniques, Recipes


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251 replies to this topic

#31 tan319

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 07:03 AM

Actually, my wife, who is a Texan, has just explained it to me,( she thinks)
Would it be a Sorry Son of a Bitch?
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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#32 ariggsby

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 09:20 AM

Rehydrate real anchos.  Puree.



I'd toast them for a few minutes, then grind



If you were using any fat, I'd recommend steeping in that, as the chili oils are fat-soluble, not water-soluble. (Maybe you'd consider ancho ice cream?) Instead, try steeping some toasted ground powder in a liqueur (see suggestions below), then filtering to remove the particles




Wow. That's a lot of good ideas to work on. Thanks.

For present purposes I'm inclined to stick with plain chili, but the supporting flavors suggest do sound good.

Btw, the texture of of the powder-steeped version was surprisingly good. I would have expected grainy as well, but didn't really find it that way.
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#33 fifi

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 07:52 PM

SSB=Smug Scientific Bastard
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#34 Margaret Pilgrim

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 08:03 PM

Also, whenever working with dry (or fresh chiles) always remove the seeds before rehydrating or proceeding with the recipe. The seeds provide heat but no flavor.
eGullet member #80.

#35 tan319

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 08:28 PM

SSB=Smug Scientific Bastard

Ted, in a SSB mood, contemplating ancho puree, chocolate bread,toasted pinons

http://www.pbmanagem...s/tednicely.jpg
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
and his (former) production career?

Edited by tan319, 26 February 2004 - 08:30 PM.

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#36 Dave the Cook

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 09:04 PM

SSB=Smug Scientific Bastard

Ted, in a SSB mood, contemplating ancho puree, chocolate bread,toasted pinons

http://www.pbmanagem...s/tednicely.jpg
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
and his (former) production career?

Smoker, glasses, bald. You show great promise.

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Eat more chicken skin.


#37 tan319

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Posted 26 February 2004 - 09:29 PM

Thank you!
I thought you would like the glasses. :smile:
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#38 ariggsby

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Posted 01 March 2004 - 12:08 PM

So I tried some of the suggestions above this weekend. Made an ancho-guajillo puree, thick enough to be still ketchup-y when diluted to volume with water and sweetener. Then added a little cream. The flavor-to-heat ratio was much improved and the texture was very good.

thanks
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#39 tan319

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Posted 01 March 2004 - 02:46 PM

Nice One!
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#40 Dave the Cook

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Posted 01 March 2004 - 02:56 PM

Very cool (pun intended, of course).

Any chance of getting a real recipe for those of us too dense to suss it out on our own? I found some really nice anchos, guajillos (and chipotles -- hmm) this weekend.

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Eat more chicken skin.


#41 iguana

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Posted 01 March 2004 - 08:22 PM

I hope I can pitch in without getting too far into SSB mode, but another way to extract more flavor from the chiles would be to use a little alcohol (i.e. vodka), which can solubilize many things. Alcohol will lower the freezing point of the sorbet, so you don't want to add too much. Also, although the compounds that contribute the heat are very fat-soluble (so the cream was a great idea), the compounds that contribute to the other flavors may extract with alcohol.

</SSB>

#42 Katherine

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Posted 01 March 2004 - 08:31 PM

I posted a recipe for habanero granita that you might find interesting. It goes exquisitely well with chocolate ice cream, but I found that both chocolate and cream tended to mask the essential habanero-fruitiness of the pepper purée.

#43 tan319

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Posted 01 March 2004 - 08:47 PM

I hope I can pitch in without getting too far into SSB mode,

Embrace the inner SSB in you...
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#44 fifi

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Posted 01 March 2004 - 09:34 PM

One thing I have noticed using peppers in anything with fat is that as it sits in the fridge, or even the freezer which is relevant here, is that it gets hotter with time. It is like more of the capsaicin diffuses out into the fat and provides more of a "hit" to the tongue.

By the way... One of the best desserts I have ever had was in a great little restaurant in Akumal, Mexico. After trying to dissect the complex flavors, the chef finally confessed that it was just a puree of mango with some sweetened condensed milk drizzled in to taste, finely minced habernero mixed in and then frozen. It was served in a very large snifter and at serving, flaming very good tequila was poured over it.
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#45 ariggsby

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Posted 02 March 2004 - 12:02 PM

Any chance of getting a real recipe for those of us too dense to suss it out on our own? I found some really nice anchos, guajillos (and chipotles -- hmm) this weekend.



The following is what I actually did. Some of the details probably aren't actually relevant, but I'm not sure which ones. :smile:


4 anchos
4 guajillos
[I don't have a weight on those, but they're pretty large and fleshy here in Austin]
1/4 c. cream
about 1/4 c. corn syrup

stem and split peppers and remove seeds and the inner membranes holding them.

toast for about 10-15 sec. per side on a fairly hot griddle or heavy pan (I use a big cast iron skillet).

rehydrate 20-30 min. in hot tap water (I put a small plate on top to keep them under water).

put it blender with corn syrup and enough water to come to 2 cups. Blend as smooth as possible, then strain through a fine mesh strainer.

lighten the resulting puree with the cream, cool, then freeze per maker's instructions. I served almost immediately out of the machine.




The first several steps are pretty much the ones I'd use in a lot of savory recipes. In those the next thing I'd usually do is fry the sauce to a thicker, darker form. For ice cream you'd probably end up rehydrating, so the reduction itself wouldn't matter, but the browning might have an interesting effect on the flavor.
Andrew Riggsby
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#46 Dave the Cook

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Posted 02 March 2004 - 12:28 PM

Thanks, Andrew.

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Eat more chicken skin.


#47 Bicycle Lee

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 08:03 AM

a buddy of mine has asked me to help him out with a catering gig tomorrow. He wants me to make a sorbet using citron vodka flavored with herbs and other things, sort of like aquavit...I was thinking I'd infuse the vodka with clove, fresh bay leaf, and green peppercorns... I said I thought rosemary would go well with the lemon, but he didn't sound too keen on that. Any ideas on flavors?
Also, in making a sorbet from an alcoholic liquid, should I raise the level of simple syrup to counteract the extremely low freezing point of the vodka? What ratio of syrup to citron should I use? In making sorbets I usually go 2-1 (juice to syrup), but I am worried that if I do that it will not freeeze properly...Any suggestions?
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#48 Toliver

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 08:43 AM

You should try posting this on the "Pastry & Baking" board. You may get more responses over there from all the Pastry Chefs on that board.

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#49 slkinsey

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 08:50 AM

AFAIK, there is a certain (relatively low) percentage of alcohol above which the sorbet will not freeze.
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#50 iriee

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 08:50 AM

raw alcohol will not freeze unless you have a ton of simple syrup. and if you do its going to be sweet as #%@^$$!!! i'd cook it off a bit,,,steep your spices then freeze. you can always drizzle with your flavored vodka as you send it out. good luck!

#51 alanamoana

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 09:07 AM

i wouldn't increase the sugar as it also won't freeze. your best bet would be to introduce some other type of juice/water mixture as your base and use the alcohol as the main flavoring, but in small amounts.

is this for a dessert or for an intermezzo/palate cleanser type of thing? sounds like the latter when i read the types of herbs/spices you're thinking of using. i think that makes a difference when asking for ideas for flavoring.

#52 Bicycle Lee

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 09:10 AM

he wasn't very clear on that, but yes, I would have to say it is probably an intermezzo...I do know he wanted to serve a single quenelle of it in spoons...
AS for introducing another liquid as a base, I'm just going to wait to talk more with him because this guy is Swiss....and Swiss men are pretty much "my way or the high way" types...if it comes down to it, I'll just have him make the shit...it ain't MY name on this thing...
"Make me some mignardises, &*%$@!" -Mateo

#53 spoonbread

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 10:18 AM

I make most alcoholic sobets by using 2 cups simple syrup( made with 2cups sugar, 4 cups water), 1 cup water, 2 TB of citrus and 1/2 cup alcohol. This works well, but the alcohol still effects the freezing poit. The sorbet will work, but it will melt quickly. Some ideas....vodka, lemon and angostora bitters... vodka, bay leaf, vanilla and pepper.........vodka, lemon grass, ginger.......vodka, cilantro, orange, jalapeno.........

Hope this helps..............

#54 Bicycle Lee

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 10:31 AM

so we need to make enough to utilize an entire liter of vodka....so we're talking like 3 or four liters of other liquid, right? Simple syrup and otherwise...
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#55 spoonbread

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 11:23 AM

Correct........1 liter vodka to to 2 liters water to 4 liters simply syrup. Also, be sure to tase and adjust as you would like ( thats my favorite part! :smile: )

#56 beans

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 12:23 PM

He wants me to make a sorbet using citron vodka flavored with herbs and other things, sort of like aquavit...I was thinking I'd infuse the vodka with clove, fresh bay leaf, and green peppercorns... I said I thought rosemary would go well with the lemon, but he didn't sound too keen on that. Any ideas on flavors?

I'd drop the clove and use anise, caraway and coriander seeds. Lemon or orange vodka should work fairly well, however I'd tend to think the orange may be too sweet. A lemony one would be crisp and cleaner if that makes any sense.

I hope it works out wonderfully.

#57 Big Bunny

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 01:10 PM

Isn't vodka usually served OVER a sorbet?

BB

Oops! iriee already mentioned this. Sorry!

Edited by Big Bunny, 02 April 2004 - 01:18 PM.

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#58 alanamoana

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 05:11 PM

he wasn't very clear on that, but yes, I would have to say it is probably an intermezzo...I do know he wanted to serve a single quenelle of it in spoons...
AS for introducing another liquid as a base, I'm just going to wait to talk more with him because this guy is Swiss....and Swiss men are pretty much "my way or the high way" types...if it comes down to it, I'll just have him make the shit...it ain't MY name on this thing...

you should definitely be following the cafe gray thread then :laugh: ...ahhh, swiss men...

yes, get a clearer idea of what he wants. seems to me when savory chefs want to make a sorbet or something like that for an intermezzo, they seem to think you can throw anything into a batch freezer and it will come out beautifully. rarely the case in real life. if you are using a paco jet, it would be more likely to work than in a regular ice cream freezer, but still iffy without another liquid. just watch the sugar.

#59 therese

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 05:47 PM

Unless you're willing to use liquid nitrogen (I'm actually not kidding---I've got a friend who makes liqueur sorbets with liquid nitrogen) or dry ice (solid CO2) the vodka's going to be very much a flavoring agent in this instance.

The liquid nitrogen approach works well for small dinner parties, but would not be practical for a cater.
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#60 cbarre02

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Posted 02 April 2004 - 10:19 PM

If this is an intermezzo why not go a differnt route, and avoid any complications. Use the alcoholl in a gelee and serve it with a herbed citrus sorbet.
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