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Anthony's, Leeds


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473 replies to this topic

#61 Andy Lynes

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Posted 26 April 2004 - 03:51 AM

Read in the context of eGullet, the menu sounds perfectly approachable, but I wonder what the good people of Leeds will make of it as they stop in Boar Lane to give it the once over.

In light of Gary's comments about how busy the place is getting, and, as I won't be up to Leeds for lunch in the very near future, perhaps I should eat my words in the meantime.

#62 Gary Marshall

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Posted 26 April 2004 - 06:06 AM

Read in the context of eGullet, the menu sounds perfectly approachable, but I wonder what the good people of Leeds will make of it as they stop in Boar Lane to give it the once over.

In light of Gary's comments about how busy the place is getting, and, as I won't be up to Leeds for lunch in the very near future, perhaps I should eat my words in the meantime.


it's even worse than you think andy,

it's full and there's not even a menu outside yet! (although i'm sure there will be one eventually)

it's all word of mouth and reviews at the moment.

cheers

gary
you don't win friends with salad

#63 YKL

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Posted 26 April 2004 - 06:34 AM

forgot to say - I think they're in the process of getting a third chef trained up. So hopefully that will reduce the preposterous working hours of Tony at the moment (19 hours according to a previous post?), and even more importantly, expedite the arrival of a full tasting menu.

My stomach awaits!

#64 daw

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Posted 04 May 2004 - 02:40 PM

Sunday's (2nd May) Sunday Telegraph Magazine includes a review of Anthony's by Elfreda Pownall.

The score is 8.5/10 and the following quotes are typical:

"For forward looking cooking, head straight for Leeds"

"Eat and remember every mouthful"

"Wear a gratified smile"

Clealy impressed the review concludes "This is confident, delicious and interesting food from a brilliant young chef who will surely be making his way up the Michelin ladder."

David

#65 Gary Marshall

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Posted 05 May 2004 - 05:48 AM

does anyone know if this review is available on-line anywhere?

thanks

gary
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#66 Andy Lynes

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Posted 05 May 2004 - 05:59 AM

It will be here here soon I would imagine.

#67 MobyP

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Posted 05 May 2004 - 06:32 AM

No - for some reason the web site doesn't cover the magazine content - they've been running an Aikens series for several weeks which I haven't been able to find. If anyone could help me with that I'd appreciate it!
"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

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#68 Steve Martin

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Posted 11 May 2004 - 05:20 PM

My wife revisited Anthony's last Saturday lunchtime. Very quiet.
Good cooking, but still a bit stingy. He'll have to bulk up a bit in Yorkshire.
She was back to Harvey Nicks on the Sunday. Better value, she said.

#69 Gary Marshall

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Posted 12 May 2004 - 12:04 AM

She was back to Harvey Nicks on the Sunday. Better value, she said.

chalk & cheese though isn't it?

there's always going to be food made to a cost, this is food made to a specification.

if you want bigger portions and plenty of offers, room next door is the place to go.

gary
you don't win friends with salad

#70 Steve Martin

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Posted 12 May 2004 - 03:16 AM

She was back to Harvey Nicks on the Sunday.  Better value, she said.

chalk & cheese though isn't it?

there's always going to be food made to a cost, this is food made to a specification.

if you want bigger portions and plenty of offers, room next door is the place to go.

gary

We don't compare chalk with cheese.
Anthony is underfeeding his guests and I don't want his business to suffer because of it.
Certainly the chalk at Gagnaire, Bras and even Roellinger was more copious.
You'll also find top floor at Harvey Nicks is more than a sandwich store.

Edited by Steve Martin, 12 May 2004 - 03:21 AM.


#71 Gary Marshall

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Posted 12 May 2004 - 11:54 PM

She was back to Harvey Nicks on the Sunday.  Better value, she said.

chalk & cheese though isn't it?

there's always going to be food made to a cost, this is food made to a specification.

if you want bigger portions and plenty of offers, room next door is the place to go.

gary

We don't compare chalk with cheese.
Anthony is underfeeding his guests and I don't want his business to suffer because of it.
Certainly the chalk at Gagnaire, Bras and even Roellinger was more copious.
You'll also find top floor at Harvey Nicks is more than a sandwich store.


yawn

there's a restaurant at harvey nicks- who knew?

gary
you don't win friends with salad

#72 Suzi Edwards

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Posted 13 May 2004 - 12:56 AM

i went to the 5th floor harvey nicks (in london) and was quite pleasently surprised. am *fairly* sure they didn't have anyone who'd done a stage at el bulli in the kitchen, but they made me a very nice thai chicken salad. they have a copy of the menu with a list of everything thats in the dish that people might possibly be allergic to/avoiding (garlic, wheat, dairy etc) so it fitted my detox very well.

it also told me a lot about the type of customer they expect to get in there. places with multi course tasting menus always ask if you have allergies/food you avoid at the start of the meal. they don't have a special menu!
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Blogito ergo sum

#73 MobyP

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 03:10 AM

Fantastic piece in this weekend's Indy on Anthony's.
"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

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#74 Gary Marshall

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 03:29 AM

That really does give a glimpse of what it's been like at Anthony's in the early months.

i've banged on about the attention to detail, this is probably the most accurate piece written about them that i have seen, i suspect they'll be quite pleased with this.

For about a minute, then they'll get back to work :biggrin:

gary
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#75 MobyP

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 05:25 AM

I can't believe he's only twenty-blinkin-four.
"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

Flickr Food

"111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321" Bruce Frigard 'Winesonoma' - RIP

#76 YKL

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 05:26 AM

found this on a random google search - which might be of interest

http://www.sugarvine...ile.asp?story=8

Thought it was interesting to show how committed they were to getting the quality and detail right for every single aspect of the product. However, am not sure that the statement that the site did not need much work rings entirely true!!

cheers

Yin

#77 Steve Martin

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 06:33 AM

I can't believe he's only twenty-blinkin-four.

Same age as Martel Smith.

Great article.
My wife felt cheated by the lack of amuses with the set lunch. I am not at home to cross examine her on whether this was explained on the menu.

I feel that 'consistency' would be better achieved by treating all the guests to this hospitality. I usually avoid an a la carte because I think the set menus are more likely to be a closer communion with the chef and feature the freshest produce, not because they are cheaper.

Of course, it is no coincidence that Gueller's Rascasse was the only restaurant in the country to have a star and a Bib Gourmand at the same time. A bare bones option must always be offered in Leeds. Or indeed Harrogate, where he had to degrade from restaurant to bistro.

So, Anthony, be sure and keep them amused ;-)

#78 Carlovski

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 06:43 AM

Clue there how he makes his Parmesan Butter

Tony takes the fat he has rendered by slowly simmering Parmesan cheese in water and whisks it with butter. Using a spoon dipped in hot water, he shapes the mixture into perfect quenelles to serve with the bread.


Mmm, Parmesan fat :raz:
I love animals.
They are delicious.

#79 Gary Marshall

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 06:59 AM

I can't believe he's only twenty-blinkin-four.

Same age as Martel Smith.

Great article.
My wife felt cheated by the lack of amuses with the set lunch. I am not at home to cross examine her on whether this was explained on the menu.

I feel that 'consistency' would be better achieved by treating all the guests to this hospitality. I usually avoid an a la carte because I think the set menus are more likely to be a closer communion with the chef and feature the freshest produce, not because they are cheaper.

Of course, it is no coincidence that Gueller's Rascasse was the only restaurant in the country to have a star and a Bib Gourmand at the same time. A bare bones option must always be offered in Leeds. Or indeed Harrogate, where he had to degrade from restaurant to bistro.

So, Anthony, be sure and keep them amused ;-)

yes martel is also frighteningly young- and talented.

i think the no3/ anthony's double header will soon become the alternative hibiscus/merchant house weekend. :biggrin:

there's no mention of amuses on the menu's but i rarely see them listed unless to boost a tasting menu.

i sense we completely disagree over the set lunch issue,

i would take it anywhere to be a cheaper introduction to the cooking, rather than a 'what's fresh' issue (even thought they may well be the same) in my experience eg no3, winteringham, anthony's that appears to be the case.

i would be pleased by the addition of amuses but not expecting of them, the amuses at anthony's to be fair are much more complex than many i have had.

but don't get me wrong i've had the set lunch at anthonys several times and enjoyed it, but the alc is the way to go, though when it's a choice of small, medium or large tasting menu it'll be even better! :biggrin:

gary
you don't win friends with salad

#80 Steve Martin

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 07:53 AM

i sense we completely disagree over the set lunch issue,

i would take it anywhere to be a cheaper introduction to the cooking, rather than a 'what's fresh' issue (even thought they may well be the same) in my experience eg no3, winteringham, anthony's that appears to be the case.

i would be pleased by the addition of amuses but not expecting of them, the amuses at anthony's to be fair are much more complex than many i have had.

but don't get me wrong i've had the set lunch at anthonys several times and enjoyed it, but the alc is the way to go, though when it's a choice of small, medium or large tasting menu it'll be even better! :biggrin:

gary

I don't think we are in complete disagreeance, Gary. :smile:
Set menus are, indeed, always more economical.
A choice of set menus is my ideal as well, and not for economy's sake.

I tend to dine abroad more these days and the amuse is usually a gift from the chef to everyone and often presented as such. An argument could be made that the people who allow the chef to set their menu deserve more reward than those who insist on an a la carte.

It is similar to my air travel, whereby I get a deep discount but am discriminated against because of it. They lure people in with a cheap option and then make them feel less welcome. Once you have got them in the door, you should butter them up, with or without parmesan.

I mentioned earlier that I don't think that Anthony's menu should be described as an a la carte: it is more like the French "menu". In my ideal world the chef would tell you what to eat and the lack of the waste that a la carte produces would bring prices down. :hmmm:

#81 Gary Marshall

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 08:09 AM

In my ideal world the chef would tell you what to eat and the lack of the waste that a la carte produces would bring prices down.  :hmmm:

exactly

anthony's food is best in multiple, small courses of his choosing, unfortunately not everyone is as trusting as us :biggrin:

gary
you don't win friends with salad

#82 Suzi Edwards

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 08:56 AM

i am slightly annoyed that moby didn't call me to tell me that they are serving a *deconstructed tarte tatin* at anthony's ;-)

does anyone have the number for national rail enquiries?
Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

"the only thing larger than her bum is her ego"

Blogito ergo sum

#83 Andy Lynes

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 09:18 AM

In case you weren't joking Tarka its 0845 7 48 49 50, but I always use the website. It might be worth checking Apex fares to Leeds.

#84 Suzi Edwards

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 09:55 AM

i was joking, but thank you anyway andy!
Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

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Blogito ergo sum

#85 Steve Martin

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 10:32 AM

i am slightly annoyed that moby didn't call me to tell me that they are serving a *deconstructed tarte tatin* at anthony's ;-)

does anyone have the number for national rail enquiries?

It is described twice in this thread, Tarka.

By the way have you heard about the Chicken Tarka dish. It is like Chicken Tikka, but it's a little otter.


especially moderation.

#86 Suzi Edwards

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 11:56 AM

i think you miss my tone steve (that's what the winking emoticom is for), it was a joke between moby and i. he knows i'm on the hunt for the perfect tarte tatin and have also eaten in almost all of the MG restaurants...it may become my signature dish.

unlike chicken tarka :-)
Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

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Blogito ergo sum

#87 MobyP

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Posted 18 May 2004 - 03:55 PM

i am slightly annoyed that moby didn't call me to tell me that they are serving a *deconstructed tarte tatin* at anthony's ;-)

does anyone have the number for national rail enquiries?

It is described twice in this thread, Tarka.

By the way have you heard about the Chicken Tarka dish. It is like Chicken Tikka, but it's a little otter.


especially moderation.

Oh dear oh dear.

And the eGullet luncheon voucher goes to... :biggrin:
"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

Flickr Food

"111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321" Bruce Frigard 'Winesonoma' - RIP

#88 Suzi Edwards

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Posted 19 May 2004 - 05:51 AM

right, am going on the 20th.

it's so nice to have lovely things to look forward to.
Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

"the only thing larger than her bum is her ego"

Blogito ergo sum

#89 MobyP

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Posted 19 May 2004 - 06:17 AM

You're going tomorrow???
"Gimme a pig's foot, and a bottle of beer..." Bessie Smith

Flickr Food

"111,111,111 x 111,111,111 = 12,345,678,987,654,321" Bruce Frigard 'Winesonoma' - RIP

#90 Suzi Edwards

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Posted 19 May 2004 - 06:27 AM

june.

figure he'll have the tarte tatin down pat by then :-)
Suzi Edwards aka "Tarka"

"the only thing larger than her bum is her ego"

Blogito ergo sum