199 replies to this topic

[Fat Guy]

La Hesser gave Asiate a one star compared to two for Hearth.

Any comments?

The rating for Hearth makes sense, subject to the reservations I expressed above (on an absolute scale it makes sense, but it's insane for all those has-been restaurants to hold three stars while Hearth holds two). The rating for Asiate makes no sense (it can only be three or two stars for Asiate, as far as I'm concerned).

[victornet]

[Hearth is a lovable two-star restaurant -- it represents all the best in a two-star place. I would choose it over many three-star places. But that doesn't make it a three-star restaurant. ]

Having not eaten at Hearth yet {but having tried most of the dishes mentioned in the review (including the delicious snapper crudo) at a De Gustibus cooking class with Marco Canora} two stars sounds right. The chef mentioned the ingredient constraints he has in order to meet the price point he feels is appropriate to the neighborhood. In this sense the contrast to certain Craft options is clear, though many of my favorite dishes there are made from "humble" ingredients (cheeks, anyone). The star rating system does tend to reward the presentation of luxury ingredients (a la Ducasse - a style of cuisine that I have chosen to rarely patronize no matter how tasty).

But Fat Guy, I take exception on the issue of L'Impero, which is one of the best meals I've had in NY (several times) at that price point, and easier to get into than Babbo.

[Christopher]

Reaching back, but to illustrate ...

Arizona 206 1991
3 stars from Bryan Miller.
No tablecloths, waiters in jeans and denim shirts.

[Bux]

I wish people would just realize how subjective those stars are. It becomes all the more pointed when there's a new reviewer in town. I support Fat Guy's point about the potential of a restaurant. I've heard people in the trade speak of a yet to be opened restaurant in terms of stars. The actual quality of the food is yet to be demonstrated, but it can be acknowledged that they are planning a certain type of restaurant.

Anyway, there are lots of inequities in the official box scores of the NY Times. Fat Guy named a few. There are always going to be good restaurants in elegant surroundings with elegant service. I'm talking about good honest restaurants that are just not a buy in terms of food alone. I'm not talking about pretentious places. There are also going to be those places offering great value in food terms because you're not paying for much overhead. How they score against each other is going to matter greatly on who's keeping score.

I haven't been to Hearth so I can't comment on their score, but it's a better review than was Asiate. Still there are annoying things about it. Babbo wasn't the first one name restaurant in NYC. "Giving a restaurant a single name is intended to brand it: part mantra and part haiku." Huh? I reserve an opinion about the bandages. The food writing was good and happily, it formed the bulk of the review. It sounds better than some three stars, and no better than some two stars. That just makes a discussion of the stars pointless.

[Pan]

Hmmm...One-name restaurants...How about Gitlitz, the good kosher delicatessen that used to be on 77 St. and Broadway and closed over 20 years ago, I guess? How about Lutece? How about Mocca? There are a bunch. Add an "'s" to the equation, and we get Luchow's, Lundy's, etc., etc.

[Pan]

Oh, about the review: It was very positive on the food, less so on the decor. And since I don't care much about decor...

[SobaAddict70]

Perhaps not, but would a potential diner want to eat in a restaurant that looked like a "cozy infirmary"?

I think not.

Now we both know there are plenty of holes-in-the-wall type places in New York that serve amazing food in settings that would make David Rockwell cringe. That's not Hearth of course -- but then again, a vivid description like "cozy bandages in a home that looks like an infirmary" is the last thing I want to read were I someone who was considering going to dine at Hearth based on the strength of the review alone.

That the food writing wasn't bad is missing the point. Isn't the point of a restaurant review a summation of all the elements that make a restaurant worth going to? Food, service, ambiance (which includes decor)? With the review of Asiate, it wasn't about the food but rather the view. Here at Hearth, it was mostly about the food. I expect that the next review will be about the service or lack thereof.

Amanda, you're a good food writer, but you still need to find your balance with respect to your restaurant criticism.

Soba

[Pan]

Now we both know there are plenty of holes-in-the-wall type places in New York that serve amazing food in settings that would make David Rockwell cringe.

I'd be delighted to go anywhere that would make him cringe! If you're dissatisfied with the food critics, how good do you think the art and music critics are?

But we'd better not get off on that tangent...

I agree that the bandages slam was pretty severe. I haven't been in the restaurant, but from the outside, it looked fancy to me. That said, the only thing that meant to me was that it was probably too expensive for me to go to...

[SobaAddict70]

So anyway, tomorrow I'm having dinner at Hearth. I was supposed to go with a friend but he cancelled out on me a week ago. (I REALLY hate dining alone.)

Since it'll be my first time and since I just took a look at their February menu (omg!!!! So many good choices to choose from!), I can't decide what to have.

I was thinking I'd do the tasting menu. (Maybe Chef Canora has changed to the spring menu. If so, that'd be really cool.)

Any suggestions? Also, I'm probably going to emerge out of my self-enclosed no-wine shell. Just a peek mind you. How is the sommelier at Hearth? (Full disclosure: I prefer whites to reds, purely because of taste. That said, I usually don't drink and in fact, can count on two hands the number of glasses of wine I have had ever since I turned 21. )

Soba

[docsconz]

Paul Grieco, the sommalier and co-owner was superb IMO. He has a fantastic wine list, full of interesting and reasonably priced choices. Do have the mushrooms and gnocchi sides. In fact, I would suggest not doing the tasting menu, but with those sides let Chef Canora guide you. Their cheese is also excellent.

Edited by docsconz, 19 March 2004 - 09:04 PM.

[jogoode]

(I REALLY hate dining alone.)

...
I was thinking I'd do the tasting menu. (Maybe Chef Canora has changed to the spring menu. If so, that'd be really cool.)

Maybe the open kitchen will provide entertainment and you won't mind eating alone this time. I really like eating alone, especially if there's that kind of entertainment (i.e. watching sushi chef).

Are morels a spring thing in NY? I can't wait for Canora to get a hold of them.

[MichaelZ]

There are a lot of good choices. I think that the octopus appetizer and the veal breast are both great examples of Chef Marco Canora's talents. If you are dining alone, may I suggest that you call and ask the restaurant if you can have one of the seats at the counter overlooking the open kitchen. It's a uncommon experience. As far as wine goes, as noted, Paul Grieco is a master and they will pair fine wine choices by the glass to whatever your food selection is. Enjoy, and don't forget dessert!

[SobaAddict70]

So, ended up having dinner at Hearth with Bux and his wife tonight. (Originally had a table for two, but tried to extend it to three when my friend cancelled. Thankfully, we managed to secure a table.)

A minor, minor point of criticism (but understandable considering it was a Saturday night with lots of turnover for tables): we felt a bit rushed, with staff clearing our plates before we felt we were done. Otherwise, altogether an amazing experience, and I will definitely be back again. There are so many wonderful things on the menu that I want to try, that we didn't get this time around.

I'll let Bux talk about his selections and the wine. (Interestingly enough, I liked the wine which is a huge statement for me because I prefer whites to reds. This was a red with a pleasant bouquet, heavy on fruit and very little tannin.) In addition, the menu has changed slightly to a transitional spring menu. I expect that the changes will become more apparent as the season progresses.

Amuse: Warm yellow pepper soup, served in a mini-shot glass. Creamy, good mouth feel, with tones of sweetness but not overly so. Nice balance of piquancy and sweetness.

Apps

Game Bird Terrine [shaved brussel sprouts, red cabbage, green apple] (12) (me)
Red Wine Braised Octopus [celery root, celery, potato] (12) (Bux)
Roasted Quail [farro, tomato preserves, quail egg] (10) (Esilda)

Mains

Braised Lamb Shoulder and Ribs [lamb tongue, escarole and borlotti beans] (22) (me)
Roasted Sirloin [braised short rib, trumpet royale mushrooms, shallots] (26) (Esilda)

I can't remember off the top of my head what Bux had.

In addition, we had a side of gnocchi. (These were ethereal. Just enough solidity with an accent of cheese (parm-reg?) to make a difference. Well worth getting.)

Very nice combinations, especially the lamb. (I'm very partial to lamb, so my opinion is a bit biased. ) The octopus had, according to Bux, a very meaty texture.

Desserts

goat milk panna cotta [huckleberry compote] (8) (Bux)
warm pound cake [candied kumquats, vanilla ice cream] (8) (me)

The bill came out to a little over $200 (we had incidentals such as espresso and tea), not bad for a dinner for three; factor out the cost of the wine and it comes out to $52 a piece (tax included, but not tip).

I highly recommend it.

Chef Canora, if you happen to read this, where do you get your dishes and serving ware? They're beautiful, in keeping with the restaurant's style. The room is well-designed and looks great. Warm, soothing colors. So much for "bandages in a cozy infirmary".

Soba

[Suzanne F]

So glad you had good company and a good time! Everything sounds worth trying -- especially the magic words: ethereal gnocchi! We'll be near there tomorrow afternoon, but not able to eat there anyway. But now it is WAY up on my list of places to try.

[jogoode]

Glad you had a good experience, Soba. How was the lamb tongue served?

[SobaAddict70]

Roasted, I believe.

Soba

[JosephB]

On our first visit to Hearth two weeks ago we had the misfortune of Marco's first night off since he opened. The food was very good nonetheless. The service was also good. We were treated very well by Paul Grieco. In fact, when we left we noticed the cheese cart in the window, which we had overlooked when we ordered dessert (It was never suggested to us). We headed back inside and made our way to the cheese cart. By this time Paul was sitting with friends and having dinner. He got up and met us at the cheese cart, and proceeded to offer us a delicious piece of cheese for a night cap. Nice touch Paul.

[Bux]

I had the veal breast (24). no I haven't read this thread since I last posted on it and didn't read MichaelZ's post. The veal breast plate comes garnished with sweetbreads, and roasted cauliflower and a few other items that played nicely supporting roles. This is really good food. There's no accounting for taste, but it's the kind of food that should have fairly universal appeal. It offers the satisfaction of comfort food although the dishes themselves have an element of creativity or personal statement that make the meal unique. Given the background of those involved in the restaurant, my expectations were very high without needing to read the reviews and praise heaped on Hearth here. Happily these expectations were matched by dinner. The price in respect to quality is excellent.

The octopus cooked in red wine was rather interesting in that had I been served it with my eyes closed I might have thought I was eating meat rather than seafood. I asked Marco if it had been braised in stock by any chance and he said "no." Apparently what I was tasting was the gelatin released by the octopus combined with the reduced red wine. It was intriguingly delicious.

The pannacotta was a superb example in both texture and taste, although I might have liked a slightly more complex dessert. The espresso that followed dessert was excellent and that's worth noting as most restaurant espresso is disappointing.

As Soba wants me to say something about the wine, it was a St. Joseph from the northern Rhone from Bernard Grippa. I was actually looking for something slightly less expensive, but this caught my eye simply because a St. Joseph from Grippa has a nice place in our memories from an dinner close to the St. Joseph region in France. Then I chose it by chance, but apparently it was a pet wine of the sommelier and he made it a point to return to our table later and recommend cheese that would go well with the wine that was left after telling us to be sure to save some wine for cheese.

I entered the room with the preconceived image of large bandages and copper staples, but the abstract pattern of felt and copper on the wall just didn't support that image. I'll give Ms. Hesser credit for creative thinking and poetic license, but I don't really understand why one's mind would go in that direction and if it did, why one wouldn't check the thought when writing a review. The unfortunate thing about the felt on the wall was that it didn't absorb enough of the sound. I felt the room was too noisy. There are no tablecloths and all of the surfaces, other than the felt on one wall, are hard. When the dining room was full, it was loud enough to interfere with conversation for me, but not loud enough for me to consider it a factor when planning a return visit.

Service was very attentive and perhaps a bit too efficient. Soba mentioned the one problem. Our plates were snatched from the table while Esilda was still using her knife and fork. That may have been enough to make us feel a bit rushed although there was no pressure to finish our meal quickly and our espresso was served well after we finished dessert, as we requested.

[Mrs. B]

As Soba wants me to say something about the wine, it was a St. Joseph from the northern Rhone from Bernard Grippa. I was actually looking for something slightly less expensive, but this caught my eye simply because a St. Joseph from Grippa has a nice place in our memories from an dinner close to the St. Joseph region in France. Then I chose it by chance, but apparently it was a pet wine of the sommelier and he made it a point to return to our table later and recommend cheese that would go well with the wine that was left after telling us to be sure to save some wine for cheese.

I'm glad you were concentrating on the wine, and did not notice that the sommelier was a SHE not a he

[SobaAddict70]

[docsconz]

As Soba wants me to say something about the wine, it was a St. Joseph from the northern Rhone from Bernard Grippa. I was actually looking for something slightly less expensive, but this caught my eye simply because a St. Joseph from Grippa has a nice place in our memories from an dinner close to the St. Joseph region in France. Then I chose it by chance, but apparently it was a pet wine of the sommelier and he made it a point to return to our table later and recommend cheese that would go well with the wine that was left after telling us to be sure to save some wine for cheese.

I'm glad you were concentrating on the wine, and did not notice that the sommelier was a SHE not a he

I was under the impression that Paul Grieco was the sommalier as well as co-owner. As far as I know he put the wine list together and served us when we were there a couple weeks ago. It is a great wine list IMO.

[Mrs. B]

I'm glad you were concentrating on the wine, and did not notice that the sommelier was a SHE not a he

I was under the impression that Paul Grieco was the sommalier as well as co-owner. As far as I know he put the wine list together and served us when we were there a couple weeks ago. It is a great wine list IMO.

Last night there were two sommeliers, Paul Grieco and a very knowledgeable young woman who approched us while Bux was looking at the wine list. She knew about the St. Joseph Grippa. and spoke to Bux at length. I don't think she was a server, she was wearing a different "uniform" and was not serving only taking care of wine orders and filling up wine glasses. I hope that clears up the confussion.

[Bux]

For what it's worth and at risk of sleeping on the couch tonight, when I said

this caught my eye simply because a St. Joseph from Grippa has a nice place in our memories from an dinner close to the St. Joseph region in France. Then I chose it by chance, but apparently it was a pet wine of the sommelier and he made it a point to return to our table later and recommend cheese that would go well with the wine that was left after telling us to be sure to save some wine for cheese.

the "he" was the one-armed sommelier in Montrond-le-Bains many years ago where we first had that wine from Grippa. At Hearth, several people asked me about my wine choice, but I believe, as Mrs. B does, that the woman was there to help and guide diners make wine choices, although I seem to remember her wearing much the same outfit, or shirt, as the other servers. I guess I just don't look closely at other women. Paul was busy elsewhere in the room and the young woman with whom I spoke seemed well versed and eager to discuss wine. For all I know, all the waiters are well educated in terms of the wine list. I remember Paul's jacket vividly.

[SobaAddict70]

Dinner tonight at Hearth.

I'm glad to report that the restaurant continues to amaze and astound. Marco's cooking is, as Christopher Walken would say, "da shiznits". If you have not yet been, I urge you, URGE you to reserve now.

The spring menu is definitely in rotation as was evidenced by dinner tonight along with the rest of the menu offerings. I had a seat at the bar in front of the open kitchen and was able to observe the choreography of the kitchen during several service peaks.

Marinated sardines [soffrito crudo, parsley] (11)

The sardines had been slightly pickled in a white wine vinegar marinade, and topped with a brunoise of carrots, celery, onion, fennel and parsley, served with EVOO and frisee. Light and refreshing throughout, with the fennel adding a nice counterpoint to the acidity of the sardines.

Braised veal breast [fiddlehead ferns, morels, spring onion, roasted sweetbreads] (24)

Veal breast is braised in veal stock, white wine, and aromatic herbs -- tender, luscious, simply divine. The sweetbreads were an unexpected touch that just added to the luxuriousness of the dish. Chef Canora sources his ferns from Virginia; the morels are from Turkey.

I was comped an order of gnocchi. A tiny bit too much Parm-Reg there, but still the same consistent quality as my previous visit.

Banana cake [mascarpone frosting, chocolate sorbet] (8)

I wasn't exactly thrilled with this dessert -- although to be perfectly honest, the banana cake works entirely by itself. Nix on the chocolate sorbet; perhaps I had expected it to be less bittersweet -- and if so, that's my own failing. I should have gotten the apple cider doughnuts instead. Oh well, next time.

My wine education continues, although I don't remember what I had except that there was a riesling (with the sardines) and a light to moderate red with the veal.

Total with wine and tea, came out to $70 (includes tax but not tip).

FYI, the spring tasting menu ($48) is as follows:

Marinated sardines [soffrito crudo, parsley]
Tasmanian sea trout [potato and leeks]
Duck leg confit [fava beans, asparagus, shallots]
Yogurt semifreddo [rhubarb soup, rhubarb compote]


Soba

[jogoode]

If you have not yet been, I urge you, URGE you to reserve now.

Braised veal breast [fiddlehead ferns, morels, spring onion, roasted sweetbreads]  (24)

Veal breast is braised in veal stock, white wine, and aromatic herbs -- tender, luscious, simply divine.  The sweetbreads were an unexpected touch that just added to the luxuriousness of the dish.  Chef Canora sources his ferns from Virginia; the morels are from Turkey.

I'm sold, Soba!

[lyz2814]

wow, soba, sounds great! I intend to visit (by myself) sometime in June, so I was glad to hear that sitting at the kitchen counter was a good experience.
How did you do the wine? A different glass for each course? Was that part of the menu? Or did the sommelier make choices for you?

[SobaAddict70]

It was a different glass for each course. The waitress I had seemed fairly knowledgeable with the wine list and gave good guidance to a non-drinker who's trying to educate himself about wine, like me for example.

I stated my preferences -- whites over reds, light and fruity over deeper full flavored, and let her guide me from there. Cost was not an issue; knowledge about what tastes good and what went well with what I was having was more of my focus. I'm glad to say that the red in this case didn't turn me off as most reds usually do.

Yes, I'm a lightweight when it comes to wine, but we all have to start from somewhere, eh?

Soba

[lyz2814]

Thx soba! I am practically a no-weight when it comes to wine (I grew up drinking homemade wine), and would love to learn more about different pairings. Are we supposed to be ashamed of our inexperience? I'd like to think that we're prejudice-free :)

[ned]

As I was making veal breast for passover, I wanted to go back and have a second try at Hearth's version. Did so on Saturday night. Also had their torchon, tuna variations and game bird terrine. All were excellent, none more so than the veal breast. Found a 28 dollar bottle of wine with which I couldn't have been happier. A Madiran.

It was my third visit to Hearth and aside from excellent food, an excellent wine list and fabulous table service (really fabulous), I must make one criticism. Every time I enter the restaurant I encounter a panic of some sort that is followed by a wait long past my reservation time. And I've had company. Usually at least two other parties are standing around tapping their toes and looking at their watches. It's a troubling way to begin the experience, though in no way will it prohibit my return.

Edited by ned, 07 April 2004 - 06:28 AM.

[Artichoke]

I am finally getting around to going to Hearth this Friday evening and I was curious if anyone has eaten there recently. I searched for threads but I just came up with a Q&A with the chef and some very nice pictures of some of the food.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.