77 replies to this topic

[vesnuccia]

you've been to hvar and you have'nt been to Palmizana????
big mistake!!!!
ThereMeneghello family made a little botanical paradise and now thaey have some apartmants and rooms to rent, but their first love is traditional cuisine. They live on the island where there is no electricity so you eat what the son has fished the night before, the cheese they maked from goat milk...
if you return there you have to have afish soup they do in a witch like pot with all kind of fish, sea food, and even aragoste which they fish and let live in sort of enormous wooden boxes in the sea.
marvolous!

[marktynernyc]

DAY 2
My first full day in Zadar was spent sightseeing. Started with the
archeology museum, A well proportioned modern building, located
at the Forum.  Wonderful stone carvings, decorated columns,
sarcophaguses, stone friezes - be sure to check the view of the
forum from the second floor.   Next on my list - St. Donat (10 kn).  
Built in the 9th century - a pre-Romanesque, Byzantine influence church  
The interior of the church is plain - just space created by the arches,
columns and overall circular shape of the building - I could sense the
heaviness of the walls- a great, great space, the bright Croatian sunlight
pouring through the few windows high above - fragments of Roman temples
in the walls - musical concerts are held here during the summer. Be sure to
go upstairs to the where the women would congregate.   Across from St.
Donat is Svete Marija - a monastery and church.  Admission to the monastery
is 20 kn.  From the outside you would have no idea what treasures are
within - I was blown away by the religious gold and silver art work, reliquaries,
crucifixes, vestments, etc. And the collection is beautifully and very
professionally displayed - moody lighting, dark wood glass cabinets, deep
red plush carpet and in the shadows Benedictine "ninja" nuns lurk in case
you pull out your camera.  I spent an hour amazed at how beautiful
everything was. If you see only two things in Zadar - see St. Donat
and the silver and gold art at Svete Marija.   Afterwards I went over to
the restaurant, Kornat, for lunch. Delicious contemporary Croatian cuisine.
The restaurant is set on the water's edge, boats and ferries arriving and
departing.  After lunch I walked back to St. Anatassia and climbed the bell
tower (10 kn) for a bird's eye view of Zadar and the archipelago - which
is fantastic .   Afterwards, I sat inside St.Anastasia - listening to the
various church bells ring, admiring the Romanesque interior. My initial
disappointment in Zadar was totally vanquished by the afternoon - every
corner I turned was a new discovery - small chapels, hidden courtyards,
the Riva Nova. Late afternoon I went back to the hotel to lay out for a bit -
the waves on the pebbled beach and the warm sun lulling me to sleep.
For dinner I went to Trata - which is located behind the Roman Forum and
has pieces of Roman temples in it courtyard. For dessert, ice cream - in
fact, I made a point of trying new flavors every time I had ice cream - my
favorite flavor was punc.

[marktynernyc]

Actually Vesnuccia - I went to Palminzana last year - had lunch at Zori -
the weather wasn't cooperating very well so I wasn't able to explore the island.
This year I was going to go to St. Klement (?) - Dinko's wife's parents have a
restaurant and vineyard there - but the days got away from me. I remember
reading about Meneghello - just not enough time.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 3
I spent half the day catching some sun, swimming and sleeping.
There is a beach near the hotel - somewhat scruffy, barren and
rocky. I found the water, while clean, not crystal clear. I walked
into town to check on the ferry schedules to Dugi Otok and Sali and
then grabbed a cab from the Harbor gate to Roko's (70 kn). After
lunch I went back to the historic center and meandered around -
stopping into Trata for some wine and Dalmatian ham, getting
some ice cream and walking along the Riva Nova, sitting on a
ancient column in the Roman Forum, walking along the walls
which has parks and promenades on top of them. Walking along
the Riva Nova I watched a bright cherry red sun set slowly behind
the Zadar archipelago. For dinner I went back Kornat - the feathery
lite gnocci with gorgonzola and pine nuts was so good. I turned in
early because I was taking a boat excursion to the Kornati the next day.

[Carrot Top]

These are marvellous descriptions of bounteous delicious food!

Has the cuisine always been so abundant? I would have thought that the troubles within the country would have diminished both the availability and quality of food...

It might be a difficult question to answer without wandering into the proscripted eGullet areas of politics and religion, but I hope you will try...

Or of course, a simple yes or no would be an answer too!

P.S. Everyone remembers that the great Nero Wolfe hails from that area...yes?

Edited by Carrot Top, 09 October 2004 - 06:41 AM.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 4
I booked a Kornati excursion (250 kn), which included lunch
and beverages, through the hotel the previous day. We were
scheduled to leave at 9 am but being that high season was over,
excursion groups were combined and we didn't leave until about
10 am. There is a market just inside the walls near the Harbor
Gate - the fresh smell of produce hung thickly in the air - to buy
some snacks. The only thing that concerned me about doing another
boat excursion was last year on an excursion to Bol I had to listen to
ABBA for 5 hours. On this excursion one could escape to the upper
deck. The Kornati are islands located in the southern end of the Zadar
archipelago - and were deforested due to Venetian boat building.
Sheep grazing contributed to the loss of top soil and the Kornati are
now practically bare islands due to the bora (winds). The rocking of
the boat, the wind, the sound of the waves, the bright sunlight glittering
off the deep blue Adriatic, the misty slate blue Kornati scattered to the
horizon. Sailboats cruised about - their white sails billowing in the breeze.
We stopped at Dugi Otok to visit the salt lake and view the white cliffs
from above - then cruised around more of the islands. There are no
hotels in the Kornati - however, there are a few Robinson Caruso houses
available to rent - no electricity, water tank - grocery boats sail around
to the houses during high season. We stopped at another island for lunch -
grilled fish, lamb, salad and wine - which was fine. We made it back to Zadar
around 6:30 pm. I walked over to the Riva Nova and grabbed a table at
Restaurant Zadar - the only restaurant I found with outside seating where
you could watch sunset. I order some seafood salad, Dalmatian ham, fried
girice and wine and watched the sun set. People strolled along the quay
in the early evening - the sky shifting from pink to violet to blue - ferries
and boats going back and forth to the islands - I found myself wishing I
could stay a few more days. Zadar is a great jumping off point - the only
problem is there is little accommodations in the historic center but plenty
of mega complexes north and south of the city. After dinner I wandered
around again, having some ice cream and a couple drinks at a cafe located
in the Forum, with a full view of St. Donat and Anastasia.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 5
I was up early and caught the 7 am bus to Split (72 kn). I got
to Split about 10:30 am - the catamaran to Hvar departed at
11:30 am so I checked my bags and walked around Split. We
departed on time, an hour later arrived in Hvar. This year I
stayed at the Hotel Adriatic (58 E a night, breakfast included) -
room 110 - a picture perfect view of the harbor (unlike last year
at the Palace Hotel), air conditioning and adequately furnished
(unlike the Palace Hotel). For lunch I finally tried Croatian
pizza (35 kn) at Kogo which is on St. Stephan's Square. Alviz,
the other local favorite place for pizza, is located near the bus
station, behind St. Stephan. After lunch grab my towel, swim goggles
and went for a swim. The water was crystal clear - according to a
store owner this is due to the numerous currents created by the
Palkeni islands nearby. For sunset I hiked up to the Fortress above
Hvar Grad - the view is still as wonderful as I remember - the warm
golden light of the setting sun turned the town a warm pink. For
dinner I went back to Menego (http://www.menego.hr/). The house
wine was a revelation for me - and the artisinal food was delicious -
don't forget to sign the world atlas. I had to sit upstairs which was
not as comfortable as downstairs - you can make reservations. After
dinner I meandered around, got some ice cream and hung out on the
square. I turned in early due to being in transit so much of the day. My
one concern about the Hotel Adriatic was possible noise from the bar,
Carpe Diem, across the harbor but with the windows closed and the pseudo
air conditioner (more white noise maker) on I was able to fall asleep
with no problem.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 6
Breakfast is a standard affair at the Hotel Adriatic but having it on
the terrace, the boats an arms throw away makes just a bit nicer -
the sound of water slapping against the stone, the church bells ringing.
I decided to rent a scooter and explore the island - in the farmer's
market there is a speciality store with cheeses, sausages, wines, l
iquors and scooters to rent. I was able to rent a scooter for 24 hours
for 200 kn - compared to last year, 300 kn for 12 hrs - all I can say is
shop around. I explored the interior villages - Pitve, Selca, Vrbanj -
wide vistas over vineyards, mountains in the distance, the smell of pine
in the air, the blue sky - a scooter is a great way to really see the island.
One my favorite villages is Pitve - situated near Jelsa on the way to Zavala,
located on the south side of the island. The views looking out over vineyards,
Jelsa and the mountains of Bol in the distance from Pitve is seductive.
There are two restaurants in Pitve - for afternoon snack I stumbled upon
Knoba Dvor Dubokovic and had some wine and Dalmatian then headed to
the south side of the island - to get there you have to go through a long
single-car width tunnel which is thrilling to say the least - the rough hued
rock just barely visible from the headlight of my scooter and the chill in
the air make it memorable. Having been to Zavala last year I headed to
Vina Plenkovic (www.zlatanotok.hr) in Svete Nedjelja. Here you can sample
award winning wines - I did a tasting of Zavala Otok, Zaval ( unique bouquet),
Zlatan Rose ( which I liked a lot, and I'm not a big rose fan), Zlatan Barik
(which was quaffable), Zlatan Galeb (which struck me as ordinary) and their
prosec. Their prosec was beautiful - thick, almost like a cream sherry -
raisiny - I yearned for some manchego and quince. A lot of the prosec
served in restaurants is adulterated crap - water downed, sugar added.
It should be either a deep brown or a deep ruby red - and somewhat thick,
not watery. Unfortunately the kitchen was closed for the season so all I could
nibble on was Pag cheese and Dalmatian ham. The restaurant is beautiful -
at times I stepped through one of the windows facing the sea and dove in -
it was so wonderfully remote. I spent the afternoon here. For dinner I
decided to stop at Knoba Dvor Dubokovic. I was seated on an upper terrace
which gave me a panoramic view - the salted sardines, the grilled fish, watching
the night gently descend. I noticed during dinner the owner was preparing
lamb under the bell - I made reservations to come back to try this dish. I had
forgotten to bring my jacket so the drive back was a bit chilly - at times I would
pull over, turn off the motor (and thus the headlight) and just appreciate the star
filled sky above, the crickets and the stillness. When I got back to Hvar I stopped
off for a rikea then turned in - tomorrow the green & blue caves.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 7
Last year when I tried to do the blue & green cave excursion it
was canceled because of high winds. This year the winds weren't
so bad - we were able to visit the green cave but not the blue cave.
Of course, I over heard a couple other days that the winds were to
high to visit the blue cave - which makes me wonder if there is a
blue cave. Our excursion was changed to Vis, the green cave and
Stoncica (150 kn, lunch was not included). It was a smaller boat
than the normal excursion boats because of the caves - and thus faster.
We first stopped at Vis - the island was at one time under Ventian control
and at another, a military base for Tito. Vis was a delight - I noticed lots
of decorative architectural details that were unique to Vis. During the
excursion a Canadian woman struck up a conversation - asking "do they
ever have a cloudy day here in Croatia?" - I'll admit I chuckled at her
lament (mea culpa). We then headed towards the green cave - the
boat entered a long tunnel and I wondered if this was a man-made
passage to the green cave - no, it was a garage for one of Tito's
submarines. We finally arrived at the green cave - which is striking
however as for it being the green cave (like the Blue Cave in Capri) -
a single blob of dancing light in the water from a man-made hole in
the ceiling of the cave was a bit of a let down. However the other tourists
jockeying for position to take photos of the dancing green blob was rather
humorous. After the green cave we headed to Stoncica - a sandy cove
( a rarity in Croatia) for the afternoon. The restaurant, Knoba Stoncica,
is a bit make shift - palm fronds and such - the food however was top notch.
The savur marinana, cooked fish that was marinated in olive oil and herbs
was delicious. The marinated sardines arrived under a blanket of onions and
capers drizzled with olive oil - delicious. One can order 1st class or 2nd class
fish in Croatia - the only discernible difference is price - both class are good,
1st class being a bit firmer in texture. I had 2nd class fish and potatoes that
were lightly mashed, still somewhat chunky and sprinkled with herbs.
Afterwards I found a spot to lay out and swim for while. The owner of the
restaurant can arrange for accommodations on the cove. The ride back was
peaceful - everyone seemed slightly unconscious - the bright sun, the smell
of the sea, the waves, the food and wine. We got back to Hvar around 6:30 pm -
I fell asleep till 11pm. Still full from lunch I opted for some ice cream and sat
in the square hovering in that in between state of consciousness.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 8
I decide this day I wanted to just relax - no sightseeing, no excursion -
just be hypnotized by the waves and the sun. I asked the desk clerk
how to get to Dubovica - which is situated on a secluded cove. She
said I could take a bus then walk down a rocky dirt trail, that it was
easier to go down than to go up. I commented that life was like that
and we both shared a good laugh. The bus schedule is posted at the
bus station and is easy to understand - the bus fare from Hvar to
Dubovica is 9 kn. June 2003, Hvar had a couple fires - one fire
burned all the way to the sea, near Dubovica - walking the dirt trail
down to Dubovica I noticed charred pine trees and new growth.
Dubovica is on a secluded pebbled cove with one restaurant and one
house with rooms to rent. Blue cloudless sky - water as smooth as
glass - sailboats on the horizon - peace and quiet except for the
lapping of waves - this was exactly what I was looking for. I swam,
I slept, I swam some more - I noticed that sea urchins were congregated
at deeper levels and on large rocks and none were near the pebbled
beach area - which was a relief. Around noon I walked over to the
restaurant, Lovrincevic, for some wine and ham - admiring the small
church next to the restaurant and talking with the owner. After some
more sun and swimming I came back for lunch - octopus salad (which
transported me back to Huatulco, Mexico), grilled fish and the house
white wine - the stillness and quiet of the day intensified the meal. For
dessert - a couple glasses of homemade prosec - a deep ruby red,
nicely chilled - this was heaven. The owner's daughter who is about
7 years old sells sea shells and is an enchantress with her smile - you
will not be able to resist this siren. Hiking back up to catch the bus
wasn't too difficult - the fare from Dubovica, 9 kn. For dinner I went
back to Macondo. The good weather made for a long wait for a table
outside - make reservations. While the food was good, the evening
seemed rushed and forced. When I left, the restaurant was still busy.
I noticed during the previous 2 years visiting Croatia it was customary
to get finger bowl with your meal. This year not one restaurant
provided a finger bowl - instead I got those antiseptic, burn your nose
hairs, make your eyes squint, towlettes. For dessert - I stopped off at
a bar near St. Stephen for a night cap.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 9
While having dinner at Knoba Dvor Dubokovic my waiter and I
struck up a conversation about NY and whatelse but Sienfeld.
(He loves Seinfeld) Frank invited me over to his mother's for lunch,
in Jelsa at noon the following day. We had fish and freshly sauteed
potatoes and zuchinni. What I found interesting was that Catholic
Croatians observe fish on Friday year round. Lunch was pleasant and
a nice change from the restaurant scene - I noticed how efficient
Croatian houses are designed - almost like a ship - nothing superfluous.
During lunch I mentioned to Frank that I wanted to buy some
Croatian olive oil. He told me to come back the next day and he
would take me to a local producer. Croatians (like Mexicans) also like
instant Nescafe coffee I discovered. The afternoon was spent tooling
around on my scooter, exploring small villages, taking dips in secluded
coves. For dinner I went back to Knoba Dvor Dubokovic. Sitting
under a canopy of grape vines - the sound of crickets - the night
so dark I couldn't tell where the horizon lay - the world's problems
seemed non existent. For starters, dalmation ham and salad. For
entree - lamb under the bell - the caramelized onions and carrots
and tender lamb - delicious. For dessert - pancakes with chocolate
syrup - which was average. The drive back was a bit nerve racking -
I had choosen not to refill the gas tank while near Jelsa - every time I
went up a hill the orange gas light came on - going down hill, no light -
it's easy going up but harder going up - words have never been so true.
Luckily I made it back to Hvar with no problem.

[marktynernyc]

DAY 10
Got up early to photograph the morning light - watched back packers
trudge through St. Stephen's square to the bus station. After breakfast
grabbed my towel and goggles and went for a swim then laid out - near
the harbor a five masted sailboat was anchored. Met Frank in Jelsa at
noon and picked up my bottle of Croatian olive oil. After saying good
bye to Frank - and promising to send him a NYC t-shirt - I headed off
to Zavala. I had lunch at Skalinada (www.skalinada-apartmani-hvar.hr) -
after ordering my meal the owner told me I had order too much food and
offered to halve the portions - and he was right. I spent the afternoon
sunning and swimming then went back to to Vina Plenkovic
(www.zlatanotok.hr) in Svete Nedjelja to buy some bottles of wine.
Back in Hvar I stopped off at the specialty food store and bought some
more wine and sampled more cheeses, the owner's son and I discussing
the first chain supermarket in Hvar. For dinner I went back to the Golden
Shell - Ivo remembered me from last year. The gnocci in walnut sauce
was hearty, creamy and nice herbed - the rabbit in Hvar sauce was okay -
the salad with goat cheese was fantastic. For dessert - drunken figs.
Walking through St. Stephen square I did not want to go back to NYC - getting
my customary ice cream for the evening added to the poignancy of the evening.

DAY 11
The catamaran departed Hvar at 9 am, which allowed me time to meandered
around Split for about an hour and a half before taking the bus to the
airport (30 kn). The flight was uneventful - arriving at JFK I couldn't decide
between taking the train-to-the plane or a taxi back home - I had 6 bottles
of wine and 1 bottle of olive oil in my back pack - would you believe I opted
for the train - quicker and more efficient.

[rshorens]

Sounds like a wonderful trip! I'm leaving Thursday for a cruise sponsored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art- we go to Split and Dubrovnick but will not have time for explorations on our own. Your posting makes me think I'll have to return on my own!
Roz

[marktynernyc]

rshorens -
Dubrovnik is beyond words - when I turned the corner on to Stradun
( the main street in the Old Town) I became giddy with joy - it's unlike
anywhere in the world. A must do in Dubrovnik - when walking the walls
you may notice outside the walls on the Adriatic seaside a bar - the name
of this bar is Buza. You must go - you walk(stoop) through a small
opening in the wall, down some twisty concrete stairs and you arrive at a
somewhat rag-tag little bar - they only serve wine and beer ( I brought my
own prust and figs) - it is a bar with an edge, on the edge - 1950's Dean
Martine and Croatian folk music play in the background - the wide expanse
of the Adriatic in front of you - a real sweet spot. I really enjoyed dinner
at the Rustica Taverna at the Hotel Excelsior (http://www.hotel-excelsior.hr),
where I stayed - a picture perfect southern view of the Old Town and really
well prepared Dalmation cuisine. Go early - at least an hour before sunset
if possible. As for Split - it's a bit rough around the edges - I've only been
there for a few hours. A couple I met on Hvar stayed in Split for 2 nights
and really enjoyed it. My second "lay over" - I was able to explore a bit
more and found numeorus bars, cafes and restaurants down narrow alleys -
so let us know what you think of Split. The day of my departure (Sunday) -
mass was taking place in a small chapel within Diocletian's Palace.

Grape harvest has just finished on Hvar and olive picking is about to
commence - I love this time of year (Sept -Oct) - let us know how it is.

[marktynernyc]

Carrot Top -
The cuisine in Croatia is quiet diverse. In Istria (northern Croatia) - there is
a strong Italian influence (truffle season just finished). Further inland -
there is Serbian and Hungarian influence. Anywhere along the coast is
seafood. If you're wondering about the residual effects of the war - which
was almost 15 years ago - all the infrastructure is up and working. I find Croatians
to be very efficient and savy. By my third trip to Croatia I stopped worrying
about being on a tight schedule - push come to shove, if I missed a ferry I
could always find a room to stay in for the night - not a big deal (the exception
being having to catch a flight) - and even then, there's plenty of internet cafes to reschedule.
I will say that the accomodations are not Four Seasons luxury - but
I spent so little time inside because Croatia is so beautiful, it really didn't matter.
Croatians speak German, Italian and English ( and I've over heard a bit of
Hungarian also). A lot of the restaurants serve the same dishes - but quality
and source vary. Yes there were moments when I was jonesing for some Thai
or good Mexica but somehow fresh seafood, prust and wines was more than enough.

Any other questions,, feel free to ask.

[marktynernyc]

I went to Brac and Hvar at the beginning of September - a good friend
decided to join me this trip. The weather was perfect - once again, a very
relaxing and restorative vacation - my friend now understands why I keep
going back. Sorry this is so late - work, holidays and closing on an
apartment got in the way. If you would like to hear about what we did -
please let me know. Here are the restaurants we ate at:

BRAC
Konoba Gust,
Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac
http://www.bol.hr/in...ci=taverna gust
For our first dinner on Brac, I suggested we go to Gust - which is located
across from the Hotel Kastil. I had eaten lunch here 2 years ago, on a day
excursion from Hvar, and had been yearning for their salted sardines ever
since.  The dalmatian ham (50 kn) was as good as ever. I was in heaven
regarding the salted sardines (6 kn a piece) dense and slaty but with a slice
of onion the salt seemed dimenished. My friend found them a bit too salty
and made comments about my impending blood pressure problems.   For
mains I had spaghetti de fruttie de mare (65 kn) - which was pretty good,
and my friend had grilled calamari (230 kn /1 kg - his serving came to 92 kn).  
The only true dissapointment for the evening was the house wine (1 ltr, 60 kn) -
which seemed to be flavoured with apple (dare I say Boone's Farm?)

Another day, due to possible inclement weather (which never transpired)
we decided to have lunch here.  We both started with lobster salad (60 kn).
A generous plate of lobster meat, served plain, with shredded lettuce
surrounding  - it was just as delicious as I remember from 2 years ago,
especially with a light drizzle of olive oil. I also ordered the marinara -
marinated anchovies - which were pleasent.   For mains - my friend order
the rump steak with french fries. My friend was surprised how well prepared
and flavorful the steak was. And the fries were perfect. I order fruti de mare
risotto - which was full of mussels, clams, shrimp, a couple scampi and
toothsome rice - very good. This time we order a couple bottles of Prosip
Cara - 175 kn - which went really well with the meal.

You can sit outside or inside, which has a cozy konoba feel to it.

Taverna Riva,
Frane Radica 5, Bol, Brac
I was a bit skeptical of this restaurant at first - concerned that it might
be a bit of a tourist haunt - I was proved wrong. Almost every dish was
delicious - the octopus salad, the mussels, the fish (dorado, scorpino),
octopus under the bell. The only dish that didn't impress - the marinara (?),
marinated anchovies - which were okay, nothing exceptional. The wines
recommended were perfect. For our second dinner we had 'octopus under
the bell'. The octopus was so tender and cut like fillet - the sauce was
wonderfully rich - the potatoes, carrots and baby eggplants were beautifully
carmalized. Another very interestng dish was a special type of mussel that
had a a growth (cork) that you had to remove to open it - the mussels arrive
to the table closed - the meat was pale white. The setting along the water's
edge was sublime. They also serve lunch. Highly recommended.

Vrsalovica dvori,
M. Vrsalovica 4, Bol, Brac
This restaurant was recommended by a few locals - well prepared home-style
cooking.  Not much ambience - rather straight forward. We started with salads.
For my 1st course I order the black risotto - the ink giving a depth of flavor that
is hard to describe - the rice had just the right firmness.   We both ordered
scampi - generous plates of scampi arrived and we dug in.  The meat was
dense but soft and sweet.  We order 1/2 liter carafs of both the house white
and house red.

Ribarska Kucica
A. Starcevica, Bol, Brac
After debating where to go for dinner - my friend and I decided we wanted to
eat along the water's edge and decided to try Ribarska Kucica. The service
was warm - the evening filled with laughter and the soothing sound of the
waves. I started with gnocci in gorgonzola sauce with dalmatian ham. Dense -
rich - warm - filling. A nice contrast to all the seafood i had been eating. For
my main - whole grilled fish (dyntex, I think) - not as sweet as scorpino or
light as orada - but dense and meaty. We ordered a couple pinot grigio type
white wines.

Toni,
Dol, Brac
http://toni-dol.netf....com/index.html
After visiting the Stone Cutting school in Puscica (highly recommended),
we made our way along the north side of the island towards Postira - took
a left and head inland through mandarian groves and vineyards.  There is
only one road in Dol and Toni is located on it. Upon our arrival we were
offered brandies and figs and the brother showed us around their konoba.
Another brother came out from the kitchen with a octopus draped over his
left hand and asked if we would like to start with ocotpus salad as a
starter - yes.   Yes we said. My friend ordered dorada and I order lamb
for our mains. The octopus salad was perfect - a drizzle of olive oil, a squirt
of lemon - the flesh was tender. My friend's fish was perfectly grilled - the
lamb was okay. Glasses of homemade prosec followed along with figs.We
sat underneath an arbor of kiwis. Highly recommended.

Vinotoka,
Jobova 6, Supetar, Brac
We were here for lunch so crowds were minimal. The patio area looks over
a leafy park - dinner in the eveing would an enjoyable affair. I started with
octopus salad - tender meaty chucks of tentacles slathered in fresh olive oil.  
For my main -  mussels that were plump, juicy and instead of being red-orange
they were pale white - the white wine broth was soaked up with some fresh bread.

HVAR
Menego
Vl. Dinko Kovacevi, Hvar Grad, Hvar
Dinko's food still reflects good quality and flavor. New item this year - stuffed
peppers. We order prust, octopus salad, a house salad, marinated anchovies
and stuffed peppers. Dinko spoiled me my first year with his marinated
anchovies - though sadly for me he has not repeated the dish exactely but
still serve tasty variations. My friend didn't warm up to the place or food -
he thought everything was pickled (marinated I said) and the prust hanging
from the rafters smelled a bit musty (I didn't smell anything). The wine once
again had a certain yeast/bread like quality to it - very unique.

Golden Shell
Petra Hektorovica 8, Hvar Grad, Hvar
Ivo is still serving great food - my friend and I started off with salads and
hen order whole grilled fish - scorpino and orada. A bottle of red plavic
rounded out the meal. For dessert  Ivo treated us to home pear brandy -
golden nectar with a punch. Will be back again next year.

Jurin Podrum
Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar
Started with the octopus salad - tender chucks of flesh mixed with juicy
tomatoes and a restrained sprinkling of parsley.  2 years ago I had the
lobster spaghetti here - I have been trying to get back to Jurim Podrum
every time I've returned to Hvar because it was so good. This year I was
able to get back and see if the lobster spaghetti was a good as I remember.
While not as light as the first - this version was a bit more hearty but still
good. Get a table outside on one of the quiet lanes, sit back, relax and enjoy
a long leisurely lunch. The food is well prepared and straight-forward. I'll be
back next year.

Eremitaz
Stari Grad, Hvar
http://www.stari-gra...os.hr/eremitaz/
I had my last meal here. Located on the north side of the bay, overlooking
the sea - I started with frutti de mare risotto followed by double stripe bream
(which were small in size) - being that I rode a vespa, I only had a 1/2 liter
of house white. Wish I had ordered scorpino or orada for my last meal -
but was still full from lunch - good setting.

Knoba Humac
Humac, Hvar
http://www.humac.info/
Konoba Humac is located east of Jelsa. You'll have take a rock filled, dirt
road to reach this konoba but the effort is well rewarded. The setting looks
out towards Brac - you sit beneath trees amid a cluster of stone houses.
Order a glass of the strong red plavic and take in the view, and let the
tranquilty of the setting work it's magic. All the food is locally produced.
You must order 'under the bell' type dishes in advance.   I started with  
salted sardines which were bathed in fresh olive oil. The lamb was incredibly
tender and juicy - the thinly sliced grilled potatoes slightly smoky from the grill.  
The home made plavic wine is robust and strong. Highly recommended.

Knoba Dvor Dubokovic
Pitve, Hvar
Located in Pitve - which overlooks Jelsa. We arrived about an hour before
sunset and retreated to the upstairs table which has an incredible view looking
out over vineyards towards the island of Brac. After complimentary aperitifs
of homemade brandies - we started with salted sardines and a bottle of their
red (which was very good). We meandered down to where the octopus
under the bell was cooking and talk with Mr. Dubokovic. Back upstairs we
had shells buzara - which was mussels, clams and scampi in a tomato-wine
broth and another bottle of red. The shelsl were okay - the mussels were a
bit small and gritty. The 'octopus under the bell' dish was more rustic than
the version at Taverna Riva in Bol but just as good. The flesh was so tender
and meaty - the potatoes and carrots roasted beautifully. For dessert we
had some home made brandy. Highly recommended.

Konoba Lovrincevic
Dubovica, Hvar
Dubovica is located on a secluded bay and can only be reach by footpath.
There is only one restaurant in the cove. We swam, caught some sun, the
gentle lapping of the waves lulled us to sleep, sailboats drifted on the horizon.
We retreated under the palm thatched roof and ordered octopus salad, grilled
orada and a liter of house white. The real insight was when I order a glass of
prosec - last year it was a deep ruby red, this year a light pink. When I asked
about the color - the waiter said, "a new year, new grapes, different color".

Edited by marktynernyc, 06 December 2005 - 09:09 PM.

[srhcb]

Thank you for the review.

I'll print out your message and forward it to my cousins, who have made several voyages to our ancestoral homeland in the past couple of years, and see if they recognize any of the places you mention.

SB (it sounds great!)

[monkey2000]

So I am off to Croatia for two weeks later this summer and am wondering what to look out for foodwise. And where I should go to eat.

My reading so far makes it sound like an interesting mix of Greek, Italian, Austro-Hungarian, Turkish, Slavic and other Eastern European influences. A cured ham called prsjut made me think of prosciutto! Sausages cured with spicy paprika bring to mind chorizo! A strudel like pastry that can be savory or sweet! Cabbages either stuffed or as sauerkraut!

I am headed to Istria, Split and Dubrovnik and wherever else our wanderings take us along the coast. Any recommendations?

[srhcb]

My Serbian Grandparents are from that area, (it was all Austria when they came here), and my Sister and Cousins have made several trips to the vacinity.

According to their reports, just about anything you eat will be great!

SB (and don't miss Plitvicka Jezera National Park for spectacular scenery)

[marktynernyc]

I've been going to Croatia for the past 4 years (trips reports have been posted). Going back again this September for 2 1/2 weeks - Trogir, Komiza (Otok Vis), Stari Grad (Otok Hvar) and Podgora (Makarska riviera). Hoping to participate in the grape harvest. Try to get to one of the central islands. I would recommend Trogir over Split as a base - it's only 30 minutes north of Split.

What to eat? Prust. There's a salty moist feta like cheese that I really like. The Pag cheese I think is okay. Octopus and lamb cooked under a bell. Scorpino is great. Fruti de mare risottos are good. Black risotto can be quite good if properly done. The organic fruits are so juicy. Marinated anchovies.

I've not gotten to istria yet - maybe next year - if possible for truffle season. Croatia is wonderful.

[ann]

We spent the month of May in Croatia last year and LOVED it. We used Mark's trip reports, esp. for Hvar -- it's an island I don't think you should miss. Rovinj is the nicest town in Istria -- the food (and the architecture) make you think you're in an Italian seaside town. I think we esp. enjoyed a restaurant named Scuba. And Trogir does make a much nicer base than Split. Be aware that just "wandering" in August will be difficult since Croatia is jammed with (mostly Italian) vacationers and finding a place to stay on the spur of the moment can be difficult. I would book now if at all possible. You will love Croatia too, I'm sure.

[SandraT]

My husband and I will be spending 10 days in Croatia at the beginning of July. Our plan is to stay in Dubrovnik for 3 days and then head to one of the islands. We'd like to find a place that is more secluded, low-key. We would like to be near a beach / place to swim and have access to good restaurants. Other than that we don't care about nightlife...just relaxation.

I tried Hotel Skalinda on Hvar, but it is booked. Just sent a message to Palmizana, so we'll see what they see. Any other suggestions?

Also, I need a Dubrovnik hotel suggestion as well. Thanks.

[marktynernyc]

Are you opposed to renting an apartment? July (and August) are peak season - hotels are probably very hard to come by now. For laid back - Zavala and the other villages in that area are secluded, you'll need a car though. There is an area near Jelsa that locals really like - I'll have to find a map and check the name - but once again, you'll have to rent an apartment. There are also some villages east of Jelsa that are very secluded - check:

http://www.hvar.hr/

http://www.island-hvar.net/

[marktynernyc]

This place is located on Scedro - a small island located across from Zavala.
Can't vouch for it but it does sound interesting - not to mention secluded:
http://www.adventure...et/English.html

The area between Jelsa and Verboska is Vitarnja -
supposedly lots of little coves.

As for other islands - Vis might be another consideration.
I only did a day trip there but am staying in Komiza this September.
http://dalmacija.net/komiza.htm

For real remote - Lastovo
http://www.lastovo-tz.net/index.html.

One other option might be a 'robinson caruso' apartment i
n the Kornati - up near Zadar.

I liked Brac however it's one of the most popular tourist resort
islands. An overlooked nearby island is Solta - I haven't visited yet but....

http://www.solta.hr/eng/index.htm

Not sure if you're in the US - but if you are, you may want to call
or email the Croatian Tourism Board in NYC - they have great free
beautiful brochures and could probably help you narrow your focus.

Croatian National Tourist Office:
http://us.croatia.hr
tel. 800-829-4416.
Free brochures and maps.

Any other questions feel free to ask....

-Mark

[ann]

Try this wonderful house about 15 minutes' walk along the coast from the town of Hvar. Whatever you do, do it NOW -- as Mark says, July and August are peak season and it will only get harder to find a place as time goes by. Enjoy Croatia - it's wonderful!

[apronstrings]

We will be going to Croatia (Dubrovnik, Split, Bled, Montenegro) in a bit, and need lots of advice. Where should we go to eat? What are the yummiest indigenous foods there? What kinds of street foods should we try? What should I make sure to bring home with me that I can cook/bake with? Are there any types of foods or wines NOT PERMITTED to take back to the states? I heard that Croatian fig jam is supposed to be wonderful. Anyone tried it?

[Andrew Fenton]

Croatian food, at least on the coast, is pretty good. The main thing is seafood (especially grilled fish) which is quite good. Restaurants will show you several fish; you pick what you like and pay by weight. Octopus salad is a specialty; I ate a lot of that when I was there.

There's also a strong Italian influence: smoked ham ("prsut"); risotto; pasta. Similarly, bean soup is a local specialty that I enjoyed; it's creatively called "fazul".

I found it a little difficult to find actual restaurants; there are more bars & cafes than anything else, or fast food places (some of which are quite good). In Split, though, we liked Konoba Varos. Get the fish.

I have some photos and discussion of my recent trip to Split (including food) here, here, here, and here.

[apronstrings]

Croatian food, at least on the coast, is pretty good.  The main thing is seafood (especially grilled fish) which is quite good.  Restaurants will show you several fish; you pick what you like and pay by weight.  Octopus salad is a specialty; I ate a lot of that when I was there.

There's also a strong Italian influence: smoked ham ("prsut"); risotto; pasta.  Similarly, bean soup is a local specialty that I enjoyed; it's creatively called "fazul".

I found it a little difficult to find actual restaurants; there are more bars & cafes than anything else, or fast food places (some of which are quite good).  In Split, though, we liked Konoba Varos.  Get the fish.

I have some photos and discussion of my recent trip to Split (including food) here, here, here, and here.

Thanks so much, Andrew! Your pictures are lovely. And how I love risotto. I will make it a point to learn to say in Croatian, "Where can I purchase a chainsaw?"

[Poots]

I took a trip to Croatia over Easter starting at Dubrovnik, heading up the coast to Split, hopping to the island of Hvar, and hiking to the beautiful waterfalls of the national park Plitvika. In dubrovnik the best meal i had was at Nautika right outside the old city walls. A little more expensive but a great meal. I shared a whole John Dory with my friend in a truly memorable dinner. It overlooks a small cove and is on the water. Seafood and Squid Ink Risottos are a pretty popular dish as well. Definitely go for a walk along the city walls which is a few kilometers long. There's a small tiki bar outside the city walls alongside the ocean surrounded by nothing but rocks and water. Inside the city are only two hotels i think and both pretty expensive. If you don't want to spend that kind of money there are some private rooms available that can be quite nice and inexpensive. They have some decent wine specifically i remember a white called Grasevina or something like that. Also they have istrian truffles which are quite enjoyable.

In Split there was a great seafood restaurant right next to the small fish market off the main walking street. Plenty of cafes and restaurants along the water. Diocletians palace(roman ruin).

[Andrew Fenton]

In Split there was a great seafood restaurant right next to the small fish market off the main walking street. 

It sounds like you might be talking about Konoba Varos; that's where it was located. The fish market is great, by the way; it's small, but fun.

Plenty of cafes and restaurants along the water. 

Right, thanks for reminding me: we particularly liked Bobis, along the Riva. Great pastries there. Croatian coffee isn't so great in my experience (not enough Italian influence, I guess), but the Austrians left their mark on the pastry.

Diocletians palace(roman ruin).

Definitely. You sorta can't avoid it. The local archaeological museum is a little out of the way, but it's first-rate. And for real archaeology geeks, you can visit the ruins of Salona, the Roman provincial capital: it's about 20 minutes away on a local bus.

Edited by Andrew Fenton, 20 July 2006 - 02:46 PM.