77 replies to this topic

[marktynernyc]

Just got back from Hvar, Croatia - a wonderful Mediterranian
island in the Adriatic. Vineyards, olive tree groves, pomegranite
trees, fig trees, the blue green Adriatic, royal palm trees....dalmation
ham, fresh fish, mussels, clams, scampi, lobster, local wines,
local olive oil....

Luna Konoba
tel 021-741-400; mob 098-748-695
Petra Hektorovica 5
luna-hvar@st.hinet.hr
Located directly across from the Golden Shell -
the third floor is open to the sky. The food is well
prepared - had fish pate with smoked salmon,
octopus salad and spaghetti buzara - ordered bottle
of white Zlatan Otok. I was a bit jet lagged but
thought everything was quite good. Cool hip
music played discreetly in the background.

Golden Shell
Petra Hektorovica 8
mob 098-16-88-797
The owner is a member of Slow Food. Started off
with dalmation ham and goat cheese in olive oil,
for entree a steak stuffed with goat cheese and
capers with a side order of swiss chard and potatoes -
ordered a bottle of Zlatan Otok red. Everything was
well prepared The owner is very personable.
I realized half way back across the Atlantic that
dumplings on the menu probably meant ravioli (doh!).
Would have like to have gotten back here for
another meal - next year.

Zori
Palmizana, Pakleni Otoci
tel 385-021-718-231; mob 098-168-3377
zori_palmizana@hi.hinet.hr
Fresh grilled scampi, dalmation ham and a
bottle of Luviji (white).  Had a couple glasses of
Prosec for dessert. Food that is somewhat challenging
to eat is always an adventure for me - am I suppose
to eat this or more importantly, am I NOT suppose
to eat that?  Also getting the hands messy
(ahh the puritan ethic). Everything was satisfying
and the setting over looking the cove, underneath
pine and fig trees is very tranquil.  

Menego
Vl. Dinko Kovacevic
tel. 021-742-036; mob. 091-548-5845
www.menego.hr
menegohvar@mail.inet.hr
This restaurant only serves what I would call starters
(almost tapas size portions). The  care, attention and
pride of their products is obvious - almost everything I
had was superb. Marinated anchovies, Pag cheese, octopus
salad (with chick peas mixed in adding a nice contrast of
textures), dalmation ham (smooth and buttery), dalmation
bacon ( a bit thicker and chewier), the house wine, figs
stuffed with almonds and soaked in spirits, the orange and
walnut liquors - excellent. The only thing that failed to win
me over was the stuffed bread (almost like a stuffed foccia).
A small cellar restaurant. I met a couple from Venice my
second time here.

Jorum Podrum
Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar
tel 021-765-829; mob 091-573-63-76
jurinpodrum@yahoo.com
Recommended in Footprint. Had the house white, some
dalmation ham, spaghetti with lobster ( the tomatoes,
capers, garlic, white wine - wonderful) and a plate of
fresh fried girice (little fish which could be eaten whole).
The owner told me the best months are May, June,
September and October - July and August are too busy.

Macondo
Groda bb
tel. 021 -742-850
macondo@st.hinef.hr
Situated about a block off the main square and near
Hektorovica unfinished house - this is one of the more
upscale restaurants. The food quality is excellent. I did
the chef's recommendations - hvar sampler plate of fish
pate-octopus salad- marinated anchovies, fruta di mare
risotto, fish fillet w/roasted vegetables.  Ordered a bottle
of white - Bodanjusa. For desert - a couple slices of fresh
succulent watermelon. Try and get a table outside
along the walkway - the lights swaying in the breeze,
people passing by - makes for a wonderful setting. Finished
with some homemade prosec - which was a deep ruby red.
had my last dinner here - lobster spaghetti (140 kn),
other white fish (120 kn), grilled vegetable (25 kn) a 1/2 liter
of house white (30 kn) - once again a beautiful peaceful setting -
late at night I had the walkway to myself.

Palaca Paladini
Luci Antun Tudor, Hvar
tel 385-021-742-104
email: paladinis@tihi-hvar.com
Located near Golden Shell and Konoba Luna. Had spaghetti
fruta de mare, grilled squid and a liter of the house white.
The grilled squid were excellent.

Two Fisherman (Dua Ribara)
located on Fabrika; between Stelle di mare and Hotel Adriatic;
along the harbor's edge
tel 021-741-109
Great view of the town and harbor - try a get a table during sunset.
Ordered a plate of dalmation ham, locally made cheese and a liter of
house white. Decide to try the lamb which was okay - maybe a
little over cooked. But the view is great.  
The lemon ice cream was a nice a finish.

Gust
Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac
tel 385-21-635-911; mob 098-423-003
Recommended in Footprint. Had lobster salad and salted sardines
(with a slice of onion and some olive oil - delicious) and the green
spaghetti fruta de mare (scampi, mussels,, shrimps, clams).
If you're in Bol this is a good choice.

Faria
Ulica sv. Marka, Hvar
mob 098-361-543
Located to the left of the cathedral. I stumbled upon
this place my first jet lagged night in Hvar after having
two bottles of wine and had a helluva time finding it again.
he huge patio is under a canopy of grape vines with
clusters of grapes within arms reach.  The restaurant
seems to cater more to large groups and families. Tried
a hvar plate (sampling of ham, pag cheese, sardines and
seafood salad) and carpet shells ( clams - not as plump as
mussels but briny and plentiful.

Hotel Skalinada
Zavala, Hvar
tel / fax 385-021-767-019
After driving through a very long dark tunnel and making
my way down a steep twisting road I found this restaurant
on the south side of the island. A fisherman was delivering
a freshly caught fish to the owner/chef. I started with gnochhi
with gorgonzola (50 kn) and a fillet from the freshly caught
fish with zuchinni + potatoes (70 kn) and a liter of the house
white (20 kn). There are also rooms for rent - if you're
looking for a true get away on the island the south side is
the place to go.

Piscena
Piscena, Hvar
boat taxi - Mice Domancic
mob ++385-91-1742-936
The Blue Grotto had been canceled so I decided to take a
boat taxi (50 kn) to a private cove, which just happened to
have a restaurant owned by the boat taxi driver (eating
there is optional). While I swam and laid out, MIchael
started up a wood fire in the grill. I had ham(20 kn), a
whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the house white (10kn) -
with tip: 250 kn. The setting - the tranquility - the food -
the boat ride - a perfect meal

If you would like me to post my trip activities, please let me know....

[Adam Balic]

I would like to here more about your trip if you have the time. Strangely enough I made the Swiss Chard and potato dish for some friends the other night.

Adam Balic

[fresh_a]

Please post everything! I've been hearing so much about how Croatia is so hip, the new Ibiza,etc etc, and have been invited by a client, so I'll be checking it out soon. How expensive was the trip (dining,accomodation,etc)?

[Adam Balic]

the new Ibiza

This is a good thing?

[fresh_a]

I didn't say it was good, just how it's being described....I guess they refer to the Ibiza of years ago when the avant-gaard bohemian travellers discovered the isle, and before the rave-party invasion. Then again, I've never been there, and have never been inclined to go..

[paulbrussel]

Well, I have been to Ibiza and I was quite impressed by the restaurant Cana Ioana where among others I had a great dish with beans and truffle. Since I liked it so much, I went back the other day.

[Adam Balic]

Paul - get with the program, when it come to Spain, you don't have to have been there to have and opinion!

[marktynernyc]

Departure / Arrival :
Flew NYC to Frankfurt to Split. Croatia Airlines has a bus (30 kn)
that takes you to the town terminal (ferries, buses, taxis all in one
place). We were late leaving Frankfurt so the 2 pm fast ferry to
Hvar was sold out by the time I got to the Jadrolinja ticket booth.
Bought at ticket for the 3:30 slow ferry and  checked my luggage
(5 kn for 2 hours; near bus terminal, across from where the ferries
dock) and explored Diocletian's Palace. Split is dirty, dusty, lots of
graffiti, lots of tourist shops, ugly apartment buildings - I would
suggest spending just a few hours and then moving on. Ferry
tickets can be bought one day in advance - recommended for fast ferries.

Slow ferry took about 2 1/2 hours. Stayed at the Palace Hotel (61 euro
a night, full board; half-board 56 euro a night) - great location with
communist charm and furnishings are very minimal. Clean but very
modest. If you stay here request a double, harbor side, second or third
floor, unobstructed view. I would recommend getting half board. Another
option: the Hotel Adriatic - a good location but I would be concerned about
the bars along the harbor playing music till 4 am. Best bet - rent a soba
from a Croatian  - make sure it's within town. All the church
bells in town ring at 6am (and one at 7:15 am just to make sure you're
awake) - and the ferry signals departure at 8:30 am and 8:45 am before
leaving at 9 am - be prepared to start the day early or bring ear plugs.
After showering went to the Konoba Luna for dinner, then drinks along the
harbor's edge and finally to bed.

Day 1 - After breakfast grabbed my towel, swimming goggles and went for a
swim - you can walk along the harbor either way and in time find a place to
spread out.    There is mostly rock beaches (not smooth pebbled beaches)
which makes getting into the water a bit tricky.  Aqua shoes are a must -
makes for getting in and out safer and protects your feet from sea urchins.
Spent the afternoon at the Fortress, which is situated high above Hvar town
- the view over the town and the surrounding islands is beautiful - the
sunlight dancing off the water, the town's tannish white stone buildings and
clay tiled roofs, ferries arriving and leaving, sailboats and yatchs
cruising around the islands, people walking along the harbor's edge, church
bells ringing.  There is a restaurant in the Fortress - I had a couple
glasses of house wine sitting along the wall and just taking it all in -
letting the "island life" mind-set sink in. As I was walking back down
through the town I heard nuns singing afternoon prayers at the convent. Had
dinner at The Golden Shell - the owner is a member, as am I, of Slow Foods -
very personable man. Afterwards, meandered the narrow stone walkways around
town and had a few drinks along the harbor.

[marktynernyc]

Day 2 -
Caught a boat taxi to Palminzana (40 kn round trip - 30 minute ride), one of the islands
of the Otok Pakelini.  The pebbled beach is small and has three restaurants fronting it.
I walked out along one side of the cove - found a spot and caught some sun.
Had lunch a Zori - sitting under pine trees, the gentle swells surging right
below me, the hiss of the water on smooth pebbles. Later on a large group of
teenage Italian boys and girls took over the beach - laughing, shouting,
giggeling - it was beautiful watching them play ( I almost felt a bit
lascivious watching). The boys showing off, jumping off each other's
shoulders - the girls posing on the small stone docks. A light rain in the
afternoon but the taxi arrived 5 minutes early. Had dinner at Menego and
once again, just walked around town - up and down stairs, a drink along the
harbor. An Irish and Australian couple invited me to join them at their
table for drinks - afterwards we went to Carpe Diem.  Lots of attractive men
and women and a cool vibe - very restrained considering the amount of
drinking going on. The owners of the yatchs and sailboats moored along the
harbor watched the love parade from the comfort of their boats.  Later my
new friends and I went for an au natural late night swim under a waxing
moon.

Day 3
Rented a scooter and headed off to Stari Grad. Drove through burned swaths
of forest and green swaths of forest.  Strange burned landscape with stone
piled walls. Stari Grad is very quiet and I could see living here - Hvar is very
lively in comaprison.  There were moments where I would take a breath and I
felt my whole being relax - spread out a bit. The town stretches along both
sides of a long harbor - one can see the mountains of neighboring islands and
the coast in the distance. Had lunch a Juro Podrum - ham, spaghetti with lobster (65 kn),
girice and house white wine.  The spaghetti had lobster, capers, tomatoes, garlic. Small
restaurant - 20 people max. The owner: "...may, june, september and october
are the best months....july and august are too busy..."  Walked along the
harbor to the Hotel Levanda and swam - the misty clouds pouring over the
green mountains.  Slowly made my way back to Hvar - signage is very easy to
understand. Had dinner at Macondo - get a table outside - the lamps shades
swaying in the breeze, the soft light on the tan white stones, people
passing by. Had the chef's recommendations - combo platter of fish pate,
octopus salad and anchovies; risotto fruta de mare, 1st class fish fillet
with grilled vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. Desert -
watermelon and then a couple glasses of Prosec - deep ruby red not the brown
oloroso type served at the bars. During dinner I heard thunder in the
distance. The midnight blue sky changing to periwinkle then back.  Near the
end of my meal the heavens opened and released a torrent of rain - couples
rain soaked but laughing, instant waterfalls created by the numerous stairs.
It hadn't rained for 9 months - they needed it plus it gave me an
opportunity to see the town in a different light.

[Stone]

I spent a week in Croatia back in '98. It was terrific. Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Korcula & Split. Zagreb (only one day) was a large "Austrian" cosmopolitan city. I remember sitting in the main square looking at crowds of teenagers in the street. They looked and acted just like crowds of NY teenagers. This was not some war-torn strife filled country. In fact, one of the things that really amazed me about Croatia was how everyone dressed so well. People on the streets, at the cafes, restaurants, everywhere.

The food was also amazing. In Zagreb it's similar to what I would expect in Austria. Down the coast, it's what I would expect in Greece. (I haven't been to either place.) I had great meals of fresh fish, mussels, clams, olives, cheese. I also bought a big bottle of homemade rakia and olive oil. The oo was perhaps the best, most flavorful I'd ever had. As for the rakia, the guy promised that if I drank a shot a day, I'd never get sick. Alas, I ran out too quickly.

There is also an amazing history in this part of the world that was completely omitted from my education. There's a vivid history of kings and princes from the Baltic area. Also, from what I recall, Dubrovnik (as beautiful as you can imagine) was the last Christian city in the fight against the Muslim expansion coming north. The strength of Dubrovnik kept the Muslims (I'm not sure if it was the Ottomans at that point) from capturing Vienna. Imagine. Also, Dubrovnik at one time rivalled Venice for domination of trade in the Adriatic. I believe that they were weakened by the Muslim wars, permitting the ascendancy of Venice and the renaissance. (I'm not sure all the timing works on these historical events. Someone here will educate us. And if anyone knows of any books on the pre-1700 history of this region, I'd love to hear about them. I've got "The Balkans" on my list, but it's more modern)

Edited by Stone, 24 September 2003 - 09:24 AM.

[marktynernyc]

Day 4
Woke to intermittent rain. Walked over to the Franciscan Monastery and got
caught there for about 2 hours due to heavy downpour. It was kinda pleasant
sitting in the cloistered courtyard listening to the rain splatter on the
white marble - the church bells ringing on the hour.  The rain finally eased
and I went and had lunch at Palaca Paladini - spaghetti frutti de mare,
grilled squid and the house white.  Afterwards walked around exploring and
photographing from various vantage points.  Coming back into town along the
harbor edge I noticed the clouds were breaking up and the setting sun light
was washing over the the town. I stopped at The Two Fisherman - which is
located near the Hotel Adriatic on the harbor - grab a table, ordered some
house white, local cheese and dalmation ham and watched the sun light shift
from golden yellow to pink, as evening settle over the town and harbor.
Across the harbor the moon was rising behind the hill of houses, beneath the
silhouetted royal palm trees people walk along the harbor's edge,
sailboats mooring lines creaked and groaned while their masts sway to and fro,
wisps of clouds from today's storm obscure the moon. Finally the full moon
made her appearance.  The city dried from the breezes and the sky cleared.
Met Alan from Paris  - had drinks along the harbor's edge and walked around
the town soaking in the vibe.

Day 5
Had arrange a boat excursion (150 kn, lunch included) with Atlas Tours to Bol
on the island of Brac. Cruise started at 9 am and took about 2 1/2 hours to
get there. Lunch was included but I wanted to get off the boat and explore
Bol before heading off to the Golden Horn.  Bol doesn't have a lot of
ambience - the harbor is charming. Had lunch at Gust - excellent. Lobster
salad, salted sardines, green spaghetti frutti de mare and the house white.
Instead of taking a water taxi from Bol to the Godlen Horn I strongly
recommend walking there. The walk goes along the coast,  under pine trees and
takes about 25 minutes at a leisurely pace.  The Golden Horn is a smooth
peeble beach which juts out to point - one one side of the Horn wind
surfers, jet skies and boat swarm like humming birds. The setting is sublime
- the mountains lord over the Horn, blue clear water on your left and right,
the sound  of  the waves on the pebbles, a gentle breeze.  I wish I had a
full day here - I would recommend spending 2 nights here - 3 hours was not
enough.  The boat ride back was a tad long. There is a boat taxi from Bol to
Jelsa but not sure of the times. Had a small dinner at Farina - the huge
patio is underneath a huge canopy of grape vines with clusters of grapes
within arms reach. Restaurant seem to cater more to larger groups and
families.  Had a hvar plate (ham, pag cheese, sardines and sea food salad)
and carpet shells (briny clams) Met Milan, an illustrator I work with, who
is now living in Hvar with his wife , Kiko,  for drinks. Sitting in the
front of the cathedral - kids playing soccer, outdoor cafes buzzing, the
square leading my eyes to the boats at the opposite end, the church bells
ringing - why can't America have public spaces like this? After drinks went
to bed early.

Day 6 -
Woke up early to clear blue skies - however due to winds the Blue Grotto
tours had been moved to the next day - decided to rent a scooter again and
go to Jelsa, Verboska and the south side of the island.   Early morning
light sparkles off the water - the sweeping views of the surrounding islands
was dreamy and made me constantly pull over to take it all in.  Headed to
Jelsa - another sleepy town which is wonderful to just walk around and get
lost in - the gentle breezes rustle the pomegranite trees which hung over
the walls.   Decided to go to Zatvala - which is on the south side of the
island.  To get to this town you must drive through a very long, dark
one-car width tunnel - and the control light was not working. To say the
least it was a bit unnerving and then once out of the tunnel you must do
numerous tight switch backs. Going down wasn't so hard but coming back up
concerned me. Found a smooth peebled beach - the island Scredo opposite.
Laid out and swam for a few hours then had lunch at Skalinada - gnocci with
gorgonzola, fresh caught fish fillet with potatos and zuchinni and the house
white. I saw the chef buying this huge fish for a family of 6 - he had a few
extra fillets left over. It was so fresh and all for 150 kn, tip included.
Had promised Milan and Kiko I woud stop by their house in Verbanja - I found
the town but not their house.  After 45 minutes of driving around  -
shouting "MILAN! KIKO!" - I took off for Verbroska because I wanted another
swim. A small town with bridges spanning a central canal which opens to a
harbor. Pulled off numerous times to take a swim - around 5 pm iI realized
that sunset from the Fortress should be perfect.  I raced back to Hvar - the
sun slowly setting behind the mountains and the temperature getting cooler.
The belvederes along the way kept making me stop, pull out my camera and my
video cam.  I dropped the bike off around 6:30 and  raced up the mountain to
the Fortress to watch sunset. Clouds of purples and oranges, slate blue
storm clouds, rain and lightning on the horizon, purple islands - the sunset
was framed by two thunderstorms on the horizon with lightening. Had dinner
at Memego again - an Italian couple from Venice was sat at the same table.
Through broken English and Italian we talked and laughed - they insisted I
let them know when I visit Venice so they can show me around. They
mentioned that this was the 7th time to Croatia and maybe, just maybe,
they liked Sardenia a bit more.

[marktynernyc]

Day 7
Woke early to see if the Blue Grotto was a go - unfortunately partly cloudy
skies cancelled the excursion. I was able to appraise what excusrion the
taxi boats were offering that day and decide to go to Piscena (50 kn), which
I read had interesting caves also. Had espresso at one one of the cafes on
the square then went to the farmers market and bought some home-made wine in
a plastic bottle and some dried figs. The boat left at 10:30 and took about
30 minutes to get to the caves - Michael dropped anchor and we passengers
swam around the caves for about 30 minutes. We then went to Piscena, which
is a smooth pebbled cove tucked in between some mountains. Everyone spread
out a polite distance from each other. At first the group of British girls
kept talking and talking but as the sun got higher in the sky, the clouds
disappated and with the repetive surge of the sea - the tranquility of the place
settled down upon everyone. Michael also has a restaurant at the cove -
eating at is optional and additonal money.  I walked up to see him stoking
the grill with wood - he told me lunch would be ready in a few hours.
Around 1 Michael came down to the beach with complimentry glasses of Prosec.
We talked about Prosec and I was surprised to learn that there is a wide
range of Prosec - even a white one.  Between the home made wine and figs, going
for swims, napping underneath a warm sun, watching sailboats and yatchs go
by, the sound of crickets, the blue green clear cool water - I realized that
for the past 6 days I had been runnning around and had not really kicked
backed - this was the perfect last day for me (I'll do the Blue Grotto next year).
Around 3 I went up for lunch - ham, a whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the
house white. Adding tip the total came to  250 kn - a wondeful meal and
setting.  We left the cove at 5.  During the summer there is a music program
with students practicing in the gallery in front of the Palace Hotel -
tonight they were giving a concert( 30 kn) to benefit the Arsenal. All week
as I had been leaving the hotel I would hear flautists practicing - I
attended their performance. Afterwards I had another dreamy meal outside
Macondo - the lobster spaghetti contained a tail and one claw - the meat was
so sweet and tender, 2nd class fish with roasted vegetables, house white and
prosec for dessert . (Milan had informed me that in Croatia they have 1st
class fish, 2nd class fish and 3rd class fish all priced accordingly, as are
scooters) The walkway had emptied out and I was alone - sitting underneath
lamps swaying in the breeze, Ella Fitzgerald in the background.

Departure
8 am - one last walk along the harbour and an espresso at one of the outdoor
cafes. The catamaran ferry left at 9 am and I arrived back in Split in1
hour. The Croatian Airline bus arrives at the terminal 1 1/2 hours before
their departing flight to take you to the airport (30 kn).  The flight home
was uneventful - Lufthansa is a nice airline - Franfurt looks to be a great
jump off point. Got home around 9:30 pm but unfortunately the kennel was
already closed - coming home to an empty apartment made me a bit meloncholy.
Picked up my dog next morning and got back to the work routine. Next
destination: Istanbul.

[marktynernyc]

misc. price list:

8.50 kn - 1 liter of mineral water
8 kn - 2 scoops of gelatto / ice cream
300 kn - scooter rental for 4 to 12 hrs
6 kn - single espresso
15 kn - 1/2  kilo of dried figs
10 kn - admission to the fortress
55 kn - roll o f 100 ASA slide film (ow!)
40 kn - a bottle of homemade rekija
40 kn - boat taxi to Palminzana
150 kn - boat excursion to Bol, includes lunch
250 kn - boat excursion to the Blue and Green Caves and Vis
2 - 3 kn - postcard
12 kn - glass of Prosec
300 kn - 1st class whole grilled fish  
500 kn - grill 1 kilo lobster
40 kn - 1 liter of house wine
100 - 210 kn - for bottle of wine ordered in restaurant
22 kn - fast catamaran from Hvar to Split (a little over 1 hr)
33 kn - slow ferry from Split to Hvar
30 kn - Croatia Airline bus from Split Airport to Town Terminal
5 kn - to store luggage for 2 hrs while in Split
30 kn - girice ( small fried fish)
50 - 70 kn - Dalmatian ham
60 kn - risotto "frutti de mare"
120 kn - spaghetti with lobster

Any questions, please feel free to ask.......

[fresh_a]

What's a "kn", and how much is it in other currencies?

[marktynernyc]

Croatian currency - kuna ($1 US = 6.32 kn)


check out this currency conversion website:

http://www.oanda.com...vert/cheatsheet

[paulbrussel]

Nice post! And I know everything about kn now (and I will keep my mouth shut about Ibiza when you want to talk about Croatia! )

[maher]

going to croatia for a sailing vacation next week. i need tips on places to eat, markets anything i should look out for in Split, Dubrovnick, or anything in between? anyone with info please let me know i am going in blind
thanks

[Dan Ryan]

A friend's recommendation for Split is Šumica (pronounced shoo-mits-ah) on Put Firula. He also says that Dubrovnik is a gastronomic wasteland, but there are good restaurants a-plenty on the small island of Trogir and indeed in Split itself. I know there are some good places on the islands of Hvar, Korčula and Vis, but I haven't got the names to hand now. Be careful with your choices - many places are rip-off joints that serve frozen fish.

Good fish to try are zubatac (dentex) and any of the breams, which all have about fifty different names.

You should also try some good home-made travarica - a herbal grappa/schnapps.

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[maher]

thanks Dan

any chance of getting some of those names? i will certainly be trying as many of the local spirits as i can locate!!

[marktynernyc]

Was in Croatia at the beginning of September.
Stayed in Zadar for 5 nights and Hvar for 6 nights.
Zadar is a true crossroads - a mix of Croatian,
Italian, Hapsburg and modern architecture - a real city.
Hvar was again a wonderful retreat. Every day was
cloudless blue sky. I'llposta brief trip report after
the restaurants.

Zadar

Fosa
Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2
023.314.421
Located just outside the Land Gate, with a huge terrace that
over looks a small harbor.  I ordered some Dalmatian ham (49 kn),
Pag cheese (38 kn) and house white (1L, 27 kn) while looking over
the menu.  Their ham was probably the best I had during my whole
trip - it was smoky, silky on the tongue - the right balance of fat
and meat, thinly sliced.   I decided to try the marinated anchovies
(35 kn) and the frutti de mare risotto (55 kn).  The marinated
anchovies were presented very simply - a drizzle of olive oil.
Pleasant and fresh. The risotto was great - the mussels, scampi
and clams, the toothy rice.

Kornat
Liburnska obala 6, Zadar
023.254.501
In Your pocket ( http://www.inyourpoc...oatia/zadar/en/ )  
state: "...looking really good on its Riva setting, with a delightful,
refined interior. A classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities,
a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town.
Although the menu is basically inclined to Dalmatian and inland
Croatian cuisine, the chef is quite inventive..." After being seated
the waiter brought a little amuse - a dish with fish pate and a couple
of fresh anchovies. I started with tuna carpaccio ( 65 kn) - a substantial
plate of thinly sliced tuna carpaccio on rocket greens , sprinkled with
huge, fat juicy capers. This dish was wonderful - it wasn't until the end
that I tried it with a drizzle of olive oil. Next I tried the gnocci with
Dalmatian ham and rocket (30 kn) - a creamy light sauce, fluffy light
gnocci, strips of Dalmatian ham and wilted rocket - very nice. For my
main dish I tried the fish fillet with scampi sauce (100 kn) - which was
fine.   The waiter recommended a white - Debit, Bibich (120 kn) - which
was pleasant and complimented the meal.  I enjoyed my meal here so
much I came back for dinner the next night.  Started with a glass of
Travarica, Croatian grappa, (10 kn) then tried their Dalmatian ham (45 kn) -
which was chewier, thicker, not smoked. Gnocci with gorgonzola and pine
nuts (40 kn), was so good I almost licked the plate. Lamb in a rosemary +
red wine sauce (65 kn) was tender and properly cooked.   For wine I had
a Babic, Vinopiod (170 kn) - a deep red and a nice match to the ham,
gnocci and lamb. Also, the restaurant has a very stylish modern ambience.

[marktynernyc]

Trata
Jerolima Viduliæa 5
098 532 057
Located behind the Forum, "this konoba is set in
the most stunning of sheltered gardens with the
foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple dedicated
to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva as its centerpiece". Trata
is a large fishing net. I ordered the octopus salad which
had potatoes mixed into it, which was a nice contrast to
the firm octopus (40 kn) and Dalmatian ham. For my
main dish, I ordered the trata stew - which consisted
of fish, scampi, shrimps and potatoes cooked in a tomato
paprika broth. It was very well seasoned and flavorful but
the numerous bones were a bit problematic. The garden
is so pleasant I came back the next afternoon for some
more ham and house wine. The owner comped me
dessert - Anatasia's dream - fresh yogurt and berries,
thicken with a bit of gelatin - tart and juicy - a real treat.

Roko
Put Dikla 74
023.331.000
This restaurant was vote one of Croatia's top 100
restaurants last year - they specialize in seafood, their
menu has very little meat - you'll need to take a cab to
get there. In the center of the restaurant is a huge tank
containing lobsters. I decided to indulge and order a
whole lobster, grilled - and at 400 kn for 1 KG, it was a
definite indulgence. I also order some razor clams (80n kn)
as a primi - which were served in a garlic herbed sauce.
The lobster arrived split in half and grilled, along with an
aoili type sauce. The smoke from the grill infused the
lobster meat with a wonderful aroma. The flavor was pleasant -
maybe a bit dry - and only cost 260 kn. For wine I had a liter
of the house white (50 kn). Roko is very popular with the
locals and gets crowded in the evening.

Restaurant Zadar
Vl. Stanko Miletic
023.212.182
This is the only restaurant I found with outside seating, located
on the Riva Nova, where you can catch the sun setting over the
Zadar archipelago. I ordered a few appetizers - frutti de mare
salad which had mussels, lobster, shrimp, tomatoes, garlic,
lemon, olives - very good. Girice - small fish that were breaded
and fried - I love these when their hot, a squeeze of lemon, pop 'em
into your mouth whole - the only problem, the serving was huge so
I was only able to get through half before they were cold. And some
Dalmatian ham again. Watching the sun set, the ferries and boast
going by, people walking along the Riva Nova - this is a beautiful
setting. I watch the colors of the sky shift from pinks and oranges
to violet to deep blue while also reflected in the water.

[marktynernyc]

Hvar
Kogo
St. Stephan square
This place and Alviz (located near the bus station,
behind St. Stephan) were recommended as the best
places for pizza in Hvar.  This was my this first time
for trying Croatian pizza (35 kn) - not bad - fluffy crust,
a sprinkling of dried herbs - a pleasant lunch.   And
the location on the square can't be beat.

Menego
Hvar Grad
http://www.menego.hr/
Dinko is still serving great food - the slovenia sausage was
spicy, the marinated anchovies were prepared differently this
time and bit more subtle in flavor but very meaty, the goat
cheese and honey was a nice finish. My waiter also told me
the order in which to eat the dishes - sausage, fish then cheese.
The local goat cheese isn't firm nor tart like chevere - it had a more
cottage cheese like consistency But what was truly remarkable
was the house white - I have never tasted a wine that reminded
me of fresh bread - it was really wonderful ( I know this sound a
bit odd). His wife's family owns a vineyard on St. Klement.  
For dessert I had the drunken figs again and some of Dinko's
homemade liquors.

[marktynernyc]

Macondo
Hvar Grad
With every day being blue cloudless sky it was no
surprise tat Macondo was thronged the night I went. Started
with a anchovy and seafood pate sampler (40 kn), followed
by frutti de mare risotto (80 kn) and then lobster buzara
style (250 kn). The risotto was full of plump mussels and
clams - the lobster well grilled. Leaving late after a glass of
homemade prosec Macondo was still hopping - be sure to make reservations.

Golden Shell
Petra Hektorovica 8
I started with dumplings lasagana (70 kn) - light gnocci
in a walnut sauce subtlety flavored with dried herbs, really
a revelation of creamy flavors. Rabbit in Hvar sauce with
olives (100 kn), a fresh salad with goat cheese, (50 kn) -
I could eat one of these every day- and 1/2 L of the house
red (40 kn) - all wonderful. His spin on drunken figs was a
nice finish to a wonderful meal - macerated figs and fresh
berries. Ivo remembered me from my last visit - next time
I'll leave the decisions to him.

Knoba Dvor Dubokovic
Pitve
021.761.757
Try to arrive an hour before sunset and retreat to the upstairs
terrace for some wine and prust. The view looking out over
the vineyards, Jelsa and the mountains of Bol in the distance
as the day slowly shifts to night is beguiling. For my first dinner
I tried their salted sardines (5 kn a piece) - they were deep,
meaty, almost smoky, a little crunchy from the salt. For my
entree I had a whole grilled fish - the flesh scented with the
smoke from the grill - so good. I noticed the owner was preparing
lamb under the bell for other customers that evening. I made a
reservations for another night to come back and try it. The lamb
dish is cooked with onions, garlic and carrots under a metal bell
with embers scattered on - the long cooking process caramelizes
the onions and carrots, making the lamb tender and falling off the
bone. The owners can even help you locate a room to rent in Pitve

[marktynernyc]

Konoba Lovrincevic
Dubovica
The only way to get to Dubovica is down a dirt
trail which leads you to a wonderfully secluded,
pebbled beach cove. There is only one restaurant
here - Lovrincevic. After swimming and sunning for
few hours I retreated to their shaded patio for some
ham and house wine. Afterwards caught some more
sun. For lunch I started with their octopus salad - fresh
juicy tomatoes, a sprinkling of parsley, some olive oil
and firm octopus - this dish almost transported me back
to a beach in Huatulco. Whole grilled fish - once again -
well prepared - and the house white. I think lunch came
to about The quiet lull of the waves on the pebbled beach
and few other people made time stand still. For dessert
I had a couple glasses of prosec - which is home made -
and arrived a deep ruby red, nicely chilled and just
the right amount of sweet.

Skalinada
Zavala
021.767.019
www.skalinada-apartmani-hvar.hr
Still the wonderful tranquil place I remember from last year.
After I finished giving my order, the owner told me I had
ordered too much food and offered to half the servings for me.
Tried the octopus salad - light and fresh, with corn, fresh olive
oil and lemon. Had the gnocci with gorgonzola, fresh grilled fish,
zuchinni and potatoes and the house wine - all satisfying and
delicious. The special dish for the day is only offered for dinner.
Some mellow jazz in the background - I have to stay here
next year for a few days.

[marktynernyc]

Vina Plenkovic
Svete Nedjelja
A beautiful stone restaurant that allows you to sample
the various award winning wines. In between tastings I
stepped through one of the windows to catch some sun or
go for a swim. The south side of the island is a great place
to spend the day. Be sure to sample their prosec. A
majority of prosec served in restaurants is watered down
and added sugar. Prosec should be a deep red / brown
(almost like a cream sherry) and slightly heavy.

Konoba Stoncica
Vis
Located on the island of Vis, set on a wonderful tranquil
sandy cove (a rarity in Croatia) beneath palm fronds.
Started with savur marinara (20 kn) which was cooked
fish that had been marinated in olive oil, lemon and various
herbs and marinated sardines ( 5 kn a piece) that arrived
under a blanket of capers, onions, olives and a drizzle of
olive oil - both dishes greedily devoured. I order 2nd class
fish (80 kn, 1 KG) and potatoes, which were lightly mashed
and sprinkled with herbs (20 kn) - all washed down with a
1 liter of house white (40 kn).

[AmyH]

Can you give a quick summary of your itinerary. We are thinking of going to Trieste next summer and than on to Croatia. Now I'm hungry!

[marktynernyc]

I'll try to post over the weekend....

DAY 1
As I made my way from the Split airport bus ( 30 kn)  to the bus
station to catch the 3 pm bus to Zadar, I saw a prospective renter/tourist
literally being argued over by two rather statuesque Croatian women.
One screaming in her best Natasha-Boris accent while gesturing at the
other, "SHE IS VERY EXPENSIVE, VERY EXPENSIVE".   (Okay so maybe
dealing with political demonstrators, the NYPD and Republican
conventioneers on my way through NY Penn Station the previous day was
a bit easier)  As the bus pulled out of the station I saw the renter still
boxed in between the two women. The bus ride (72 kn) to Zadar took
about 3 hours, stopping at numerous towns along the way,passing bland
modern constructed suburbs and beautiful untouched pine coves, the 10
hour flight and warm sun making me drift in and out of a sleepy stupor.
At the bus station in Zadar I could see the Hotel Kolovare
(http://www.hotel-kol...zadar.htnet.hr/) sign on top of
the hotel - it's about a 5 minute walk, no need to take a cab. The hotel is
a 70s modern affair and has recently been updated - air conditioning,
electronic card swipes, great bathroom, adequately appointed room.  
I asked for a sea side room but even on the top floor the pines trees
blocked the view. After unpacking and showering, I walked along the
water's edge for about 15 minutes till I passed through the Land Gate
and into the historic center of Zadar.    Unlike Dubrovnik's Old Town which
is pedestrian only, Zadar's historic district does have some, though very little,
vehicular traffic, unfortunately. I noticed a mix of old and new constantly in
Zadar - the history of numerous countries visible around every corner in
this crossroad's city.   I wandered around - finding the mix of Italianate,
Hapsburg, Croatian and modern architecture surprising and a bit of a let down
after Hvar and Dubrovnik.   I made my way to the Forum where remnants of
Roman pillars and stones still stand and then back to Fosa for dinner - which
is located just outside the Land Gate and city walls, on a small cove. For
dessert I walked back to the Forum for some ice cream and maraschino
liquor - admiring St. Donat and St. Anatassia's tower - then walked around
getting gloriously lost.   On one square I sipped a glass of travarica and listened
to a Croatian played acoustic guitar in a cool evening breeze. At a bar on the
main walk, a Croatian folk group sang accapella. The main walk, like Stradun
in Dubrovnik, glistens in the night and was thronged with people.  The view
looking towards St, Anatasia tower at night is enchanting. After 24 plus hours
of traveling and a couple more travaricas I decided to call it a night and
made my way back to the hotel.