Honolulu styles itself the "Crossroads of the Pacific", though more often nowadays it's a speck in the ocean for people jetting overhead from Important North American City A to Important East Asian City B, or vice-versa. Nonetheless, its cultural diversity has been kept alive by waves of immigration and made marketable in recent years by waves of increasingly jaded tourists.
This combination, however, has inevitably led to a split of local dining into two segments. The first is Hawaiian Regional Cuisine, full of self-conscious East-West adaptation, spawning its share of celebrity chefs, such as Roy Yamaguchi, Sam Choy, Alan Wong, and George Mavrothalassitis.
The second is the everyday cuisine of local people, an ever-evolving ethnic amalgamation full of adaptations such as mochiko chicken, loco moco, spam musubi, puhelu kalbi, and kalua pig manapua, all piled on sky high on top the ubiquitous plate lunch. Some of the biggest (though not necessarily the best) purveyors of local fast food are: Zippy's (plate lunch), L&L's (plate lunch), Yummy's (Korean-style plate lunch), Ba-Le (Vietnamese-style sandwiches), and Ezogiku (ramen).
By far the best intro to local cuisine in its cultural context is Rachel Laudan ("caroline" to egulleters)'s Food of Paradise (University of Hawaii Press, 1996), winner of the 1997 IACP Jane Grigson Award.
O.K., formalities aside, here is the media digest. Since this is the first installment, there is some introductory material as well. I don't know how frequently I can update!
The two daily newspapers are the Star-Bulletin and Advertiser. The Star-Bulletin's food editor is Betty Shimabukuro, who writes a lot about local ingredients. Some of her recent feature articles:
A Taste of Tofu: All tubs are not created equal
Daikon ministry: The Honbushin community celebrates the favorite vegetable in its shared garden
Oahu sprouts new farmers’ markets
Chef devotes a dinner to a rare ’shroom (matsutake)
Forget about hair on your chest, traditional Okinawan andasu will put hair on your back, sides and the top of your head
She also writes a column called BY REQUEST. Being lazy, I just copied excerpts from the index page:
Maguro Zuke a triple winner at poke festival
Wednesday, September 17, 2003
Hideo Kurihara won the trifecta at the Sam Choy Poke Contest, held over the weekend at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel on the Big Island.- Kurihara's . . .
Benefit book offers simple solutions
Wednesday, September 10, 2003
Joline Galusha's request looked like an easy one. She wanted a recipe for lumpia. Surely, given all the recipes that have been printed on these pages, . . .
Award-winning chili brims with oxtails
Wednesday, September 3, 2003
Forget the chili purists -- those people who say a true pot of chili has no beans and no ground up meat, just big ol' chunks.- The winner of Kakaako Kitchen's . . .
Tofu byproduct makes cookies soft and chewy
Wednesday, August 27, 2003
This request was so odd it was fascinating. Ernelle Leong is looking for a recipe for cookies made with okara, or soy bean meal. She had the cookies . . .
Baking makes teri chicken extra tender
Wednesday, August 20, 2003
Sometimes the simplest foods are the best, especially if you can find a formula for a basic dish done particularly well.- Georgiane Senda is a faithful . . .
The Star-Bulletin restaurant editor is Nadine Kam, who writes a column called THE WEEKLY EATER. Presumably, restaurant reviews will be of somewhat less use to those to those outside the state, so I generally won't excerpt or index individual articles, but check it out anyway if you're like me and enjoy reading reviews of restaurants you'll probably never have a chance to frequent.
The Star-Bulletin also features every Wednesday recipes from two TV shows, Hawaii's Kitchen and Hawaiian Electric Kitchen (see below).
The Advertiser's food editor is Wanda A. Adams. However, since she doubles up as a feature writer, there aren't quite as many food articles as you would expect under her byline. Instead, other writers chip in, such as in the recent feature on Hawaiian heart of palm:
OFF THE SHELF: Fresh Hawaiian heart of palm versatile and nutritious by Zenaida Serrano Espanol
QUICK AND EASY: Michael's fresh Hawaiian heart of palm ahi poke
The Advertiser restaurant critic is Matthew Gray, who's pretty adept an rooting out hole-in-the-wall places. Again, I won't excerpt except in unusual cases, but here are links to the archive index.
On TV, there is a wealth of shows, as the major stations feel the need to keep up with the Hawaiian Regional bandwagon.
PBS Hawai`i's version is HAWAII COOKS with Roy Yamaguchi, which I believe is gradually extending its national distribution. Here are some copied-and-pasted excerpts from the home page.
Soybean (9/3 & 9/6) It’s probably the most versatile and revered legume in Asia, while in the West, soy and soy products are only now being hailed for their health benefits. From bean to tofu, Hawaii Cooks looks at the many ways soybeans are utilized in the islands. Soybean pods on the vine, soymilk dripping from crushed beans and silken tofu floating in a water bath are just some of the products that are captured.
Ruth Rasmussen: Wok-Charred Edamame
Yamaguchi: Kalua Pork with Taro Sauce and Tofu-Yuba Stir Fry
Future Chefs (9/10 & 9/13) The future of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement is well in the hands of a number of up-and-coming chefs. Hawaii Cooks examines a highschool culinary program at Leilehua as well as a collegiate level program at Leeward Community College that are making sure a steady stream of qualified culinary professionals continue to fill the industry. Mentor and apprentice, chefs Alan Wong and Lance Kosaka join Roy in the kitchen to share recipes that hold special meaning to them as they discuss their careers and the future of the industry.
Alan Wong: Pickled Mango Vinaigrette
Lance Kosaka: Shrimp and Clam Linguine with Chile, Lemon Grass, and Black Bean Sauce
Going Fishin’ (9/17 & 9/20) From sacred Hawaiian fishponds to the modern tanks of fish farms at the Big Island’s Ocean Science and Technology Park, raising quality seafood has always been a priority in Hawaii. Hawaii Cooks examines farm raised seafood with a look at how both traditional techniques and current aquaculture methods are helping to develop a steady supply of superior fish and shellfish.
Yamaguchi: Hawaiian Cioppino and Crostini with Eastern Rouille
Sake and Rice (9/27) Hawaii Cooks ventures to Portland, Oregon where Roy’s signature Y sake is produced. Japanese chef and owner of Imanas Tei Izakaya, Kesuke “Casey”Asai, joins Roy in the kitchen to prepare a simple and tasty dish that is a perfect accompaniment to sake.
Kesuke Asai: Aku Tataki
Yamaguchi: Molded Sushi with Unagi and Spicy Crab
KITV (ABC) has the granddaddy of these shows, the HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC KITCHEN, running since 1995 and so-called because of its sponsor. A sampling of some recent shows (you need to register to see the recipe index):
Taste of Hilo with Restaurant Kaikodo and O’keefe and Sons Breadbakers - 9/14/2003
Demonstrated By: Michael Fennelly and Jim O’Keefe
* Ahi Spring Rolls
* Barbecued Oysters
* Quick Puff Pastry Dough
* Fresh Apple Turnovers
* Li Hing Fresh Fruit Tarts
* Sausage Apple Rolls
. . .
Aloha Festivals 2003 - 8/16/2003
Demonstrated By: Helen Kuoha-Torco and Barney Issacs
* Butter Mochi
* Hawaiian Beef Stew
* Ono Loaded Saimin
. . .
Vietnamese Cooking with A Saigon Café on Maui - 7/1/2003
Demonstrated By: Owner Jennifer Nguyen & Chef Long Van Nguyen
* Beef Salad with Garlic and Egg
* Fried Whole Fish
* Green Papaya Salad
Year of the Hawaiian Forest with Malama Hawaii - 6/16/2003
Demonstrated By: George "Chef Mavro" Mavrothalassitis
* Limu Kohu Ahi Poke
* Lilikoi Malasadas with Guava Coulis and Ice Cream
. . .
Korean Centennial pt. 2 - 2/16/2003
Demonstrated By: OnJin Kim of OnJin's Café
* Korean-Style Fresh Watercress Salad
* Korean-Style Oxtail Soup
* Korean-Style Shrimp and Chive Pancakes
2003 Narcissus Festival pt.2 - 2/1/2003
Demonstrated By: Terrill Chock - Narcissus Festival General Chairman, 2002 Narcissus Queen Kuuleialoha Chun, 2002 2nd Princess Sherri Seto
* Bitter Melon and Pork with Black Beans
* Cold Ginger Chicken
* Green Curry Chicken
Incidentally, KITV has its own food page, complete with restaurant reviews by local newsreader idols, but the page doesn't have any mention of Electric Kitchen. Strange.
KHON (Fox)'s show is HAWAII'S KITCHEN. The KHON site unfortunately hasn't been kept up to date, but a more up-to-date archive is provided by Suresave Supermarket's site. Some recent recipes:
Sep. 20, 2003
Fettucine with Shiitake Cream Sauce
Pasta with Thai Coconut and Herbed Sauce
Fresh Tortellini with Roasted Red Pepper and Garlic Sauce
Fusilli Pasta with Asian Pacific Pesto
Sep. 14, 2003
Broiled Sea bass
Sep. 7, 2003
Rebroadcast from 3/23/03
. . .
KHNL (NBC) has SAM CHOY'S KITCHEN, which is nearly as ancient as Hawaiian Electric Kitchen, running since 1996. Suresave also has an archive of these recipes. Excerpts:
Apple Crisp, Bluberry Cobbler Show 08/23/03
Pickled Mango, Mango Bread
Cool off from the summer heat with these delicious drinks
Chicken Parmesan and Seafood Pasta
Pulehu Flank Steak with Dad's Sunday Potatoes and Nalo Greens with a Kona Prange Vinigrette, Grilled Marinated Shrimp with Aloha Soy Drizzle, Mango Salsa and Soba Noodles.
Macadamia Nut Ahi Poke with Furikake Crisp, Shoyu Lemongrass Glaze, Shoyu Lemongrass Glaze,Sake Vinaigrette, Furikake Crisp, Poke Kahiko.
Local Style Beef Salad and Braised Lamb Shank Show 07/05/03
Pork Luau, Cinnamon Roll
KHNL also runs frequent segments called CHEAP EATS with Sam Choy and Lyle Galdeira. In which they sample a full range of Hawai's plate lunch and other fast food offerings. Needless to say, Choy has good taste. But perhaps a bit eclectic. O.K. Saimin, Manapua, Bento, Okazu, Pizzerias, etc. But Kalani and Kamehameha School Cafeteria? Iolani and Punahou Carnival?? Streaming media for some segments (but somehow not all).
O.K., that's it for now.
Pin me up Jinmyo. . .
Edited by skchai, 23 September 2003 - 03:14 PM.