NYTimes Weekly Update
Wednesday, January 14, 2004A. In today's New York Times
The Other Down Under (R. W. Apple Jr.)
FOR generations," said Nigel Elder, a former paratrooper in the British Army who now tends the vines at Martinborough Vineyard, "we exported our best produce. We didn't taste it, so we didn't know how good it was."
Well, that's not true anymore, and the evidence was there on the table: sweet, sensual scallops from Whitianga, a little fishing port on the Coromandel peninsula, so fresh they threatened to jump off the plate, showered with basil, coriander and lemon grass; unashamedly wild-tasting rack of lamb from Hawkes Bay, tender and rosy-red; three New Zealand cheeses, including Waimata Farmhouse Blue, a tangy, buttery delicacy that could readily stand comparison with Roquefort or Maytag; and luscious fig and Arataki honey ice cream.
Apple Cart Upset: Who Runs Greenmarket? (Amanda Hesser)
Ms. Planck started her job as director of Greenmarket last July. She was fired on Dec. 23.
To some, her dismissal came as no surprise. "There was a sense of distress in the community, and I think Nina created it," said Eugene Wyatt, the owner of Catskill Merino, a sheep farm, and a Greenmarket farmer. "It was a relief to have her gone."
To others it was yet more evidence of troubles that have long stalled Greenmarket's potential. "They didn't know who they hired: someone who was really ready to make changes," said Mary Cleaver, the owner of the Cleaver Company, a caterer that buys from Greenmarket farmers.
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Latest Green Fashions Come in Many Styles (David Karp)
A major commercial lime industry will probably never return to the United States. But growers like Eric Christensen of Rising C Ranches in the San Joaquin Valley are prospering by raising exotic varieties.
"The ethnic population of this country has a craving for their homeland fruits, which they're not getting, and they're willing to pay," Mr. Christensen said recently over dinner.
He also focuses on mainstream markets, however, selling to stores in New York like Fairway and Gourmet Garage. To stay ahead of the curve, he experiments with varieties like the Rangpur lime, which looks like a tangerine and has a rich, distinctive flavor.
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And if you want to order limes directly from suppliers:Sources: On the Exotic Side
Bread Tribeca (Marian Burros)
I am more than willing to forgive Bread Tribeca for its bland soups, its charming but not always focused serving staff and the lack of spoons for its saltcellars — I hate to think how many fingers have taken a pinch or two — because most of the food is a pleasure.
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January 15, 2004 Corrections
• The Restaurants column in the Dining section yesterday, reviewing Bread Tribeca, at 301 Church Street in Manhattan, carried an erroneous star rating. The critic assigned it two stars, not one.
The review also misstated the reservation telephone number. It is (212) 334-8282; for delivery orders, (212) 334-0200.
I have always said that holidays are very dangerous," said Edward Serotta. Old Jewish women are always looking to stuff a nice Jewish bachelor like him. Still, Mr. Serotta, 54, takes his chances because holiday meals are essential to his work, documenting what remains of Jewish life in Central and Eastern Europe.
Brisket Was His Madeleine (Joan Nathan)
"Someone served me a piece of brisket the size of a telephone book with big boiled potatoes. It felt like home," he said. "Then I realized, it is the old country, and these were the recipes of my grandparents in Poland."
He vowed then to capture the family stories of these people. Three years later, he sold everything he owned and moved to Budapest. He has produced three books and four documentary films. His photographs are in the permanent collections of many American museums.
The Chef: The Zen of Braising (Nancy Harmon Jenkins)
When the liquid was barely trembling, not even a real simmer, he slid the pot, with a loose cover of foil, into the wood-burning oven. "The Zen of braising is all about the courage required by patience," Mr. Hayward said. "You're looking for a breakdown of the connective tissue and a release of collagen to make the meat slippery, rich and moist. You want the tissues to liquefy without melting them away."
He paused a minute. "Braising is an art," he said.
The Minimalist: Spareribs, Unflamed (Mark Bittman)
In this country, ribs tend to be summer food: we grill 'em. But in much of the rest of the world, they have been braised more often than not. When braising, of course, you sacrifice the crisp crust that is such a big part of the appeal of grilled meat.
But look at all you gain: flexibility in timing (you can braise far in advance), a cooking process that needs little attention, guaranteed tenderness and the ability to integrate vegetables of all types into the dish. Not to mention the fact that, to braise, you don't have to go outside.
Wine Talk: Giddy Times for Champagne Makers (Frank J. Prial)Food Stuff (Florence Fabricant)
Economists and others who should know are saying that the economy's upturn in recent months has bypassed the working class and particularly benefited the country's elite.
Recent sales figures for high-end Champagne and sparkling wines, the traditional celebratory beverages of the economically favored, tend to bear that out. As of October, French Champagne sales for the first nine months of last year were up 15 percent over the same period in 2002, industry analysts say. Top California sparkling wines, made by the traditional Champagne method, were doing even better. Roederer Estate was up 26 percent over 2002, Schramsberg 35 percent and Iron Horse 25 percent, according to The Wine Market Report, a trade publication.
Col Legno (Eric Asimov)
Nowadays, by my unscientific count, the East Village has more Italian restaurants than unemployed guitarists, surely a sign that the balance has changed. And yet Col Legno soldiers on, offering essentially the same Tuscan trattoria menu as it did when it was new, at prices that are not much different.
to discuss the review or contribute your experiences.LettersCorrectionsRecipes in today's issue:
1. Braised Lamb Shoulder
2. Chicken Paprika With Dumplings
3. Braised Spareribs With CabbageB. In the magazine (Published: January 11, 2004)
A Short-Order Revolutionary (Russell Shorto)C. Good Eating (Published: January 11, 2004)Roads Less Traveled
Tod Murphy, the man behind the breakfast, literally and figuratively, sits in a green vinyl booth in his 60-seat eatery, the Farmers Diner, on North Main Street in Barre, Vt., and deconstructs my meal. ''The potatoes come from Will Allen's farm over on the Connecticut River. We get our bread from a bakery in Northfield, and believe it or not the eggs come from a little egg farm right in downtown Stowe. Earl and Amy out in Strafford supplied the milk and butter, or rather their Guernseys did. And the bacon came from Andrew.'' Andrew is 15 years old, and in his first foray into hog farming he produced what your correspondent is ready to nominate the finest bacon on the planet.
Places covered: Bahia, Eight Mile Creek (**), Kabab King Diner, Lomzynianka, Madiba, Pamir, Tibetan Yak.D. Diner's Journal (Published: January 9, 2004)
Zona Rosa (Marian Burros)
Don't judge Zona Rosa by its peanut-butter frozen tequila margaritas. Enough of them are likely to have the same impact brandy Alexanders had on a couple of my relatives at a wedding years ago: during the reception two women, both of a certain age, either decided to roll down a hill or couldn't help themselves.
The rest of the Nuevo Mexicano food at the restaurant is well conceived and savory.
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