105 replies to this topic

[rickster]

My number-two suggestion would then be Mraz & Sohn. It is situated where one would not expect a very fine restaurant (the Steirereck is also not quite central, by the way), but it is quite superb in many respects. Highly inventive cooking that generally works, excellent wine pairings available for all courses, cheeses in great profusion and perfect condition.

Coincidentally, I was at this restaurant for a business dinner earlier this week and would rate the best of those I have been to in several visits to Vienna. It tries a little too hard to be inventive at times (they served an after dinner treat of homemade cherry pudding in a pop top can), but still very good.

[prasantrin]

This is a very belated reply, but it might interest latecomers.
It is my considered opinion that the best restaurant in Vienna (perhaps in all of Austria) is the "Steirereck".
I live in Vienna and spend far too much money on food, so you can trust me a little bit!

Bringing this back up rather than start a new discussion...

I'll be in Vienna this summer for a few days, and then will be moving on to Prague, Budapest, and Tirgu Mures. Every trip, I splurge on at least one fine meal and scrimp the rest of the time. This trip, I'm planning to splurge on Steirereck. However, with three people in the party and me likely picking up the tab, I'm wondering if Steirereck might be too much of a splurge. I e-mailed them and they directed me to their menu on their website but could only find two prix fixe menus for 77 Euros each. Does Steirereck also have an a la carte menu at dinnertime? I had initially planned to have lunch there (which I could definitely afford) but they are closed for lunch during the time I will be visiting. Bad luck for me!

[cmling]

Every time I visited the Steirereck in the evening (over a period of some 25 years), they *did* have an à la carte menu. But as my last time is several months ago, it might be wise to check. (A phone call should do it?)
But: I think the EUR 77 menu is a good deal. You won't end up spending much less if you have three courses à la carte.
I consider the Steirereck entirely worthy of its 4 Gault-Millau toques, which makes the 77 EUR deal a bargain in my eyes; and the wine accompaniment also has a fair price, methinks.

Charley

[prasantrin]

Every time I visited the Steirereck in the evening (over a period of some 25 years), they *did* have an à la carte menu. But as my last time is several months ago, it might be wise to check. (A phone call should do it?)
But: I think the EUR 77 menu is a good deal. You won't end up spending much less if you have three courses à la carte.
I consider the Steirereck entirely worthy of its 4 Gault-Millau toques, which makes the 77 EUR deal a bargain in my eyes; and the wine accompaniment also has a fair price, methinks.

Charley

I'll ask again when I fax in my credit card confirmation. I had already asked about the menu once and was directed to the prix fixe on the website. If it were just me, I would be fine with EUR 77 but I'm a bit worried about the other folks in my party. Even if the meal is on me, I think they'll balk at the price. However, I'm hoping to work something out with the restaurant where the others won't even know how much things are. Maybe I can pre-order or something...I'll have to ask about that, too.

Another question...According to their website, they strive for "an informal, yet elegant" atmosphere. Just how "informal" is the atmosphere there? I assume no jeans, but must one dress up or would black slacks and a blouse do?

[cmling]

I do assume that you can work out something with the restaurant. They really try to do everything they can for their guests.

Black slacks and a blouse would be fine. It is not an exceedingly formal place. Note, however, that the restaurant is air-conditioned (not frigid, though), so you might want to take a sweater or something like that, too.

I am almost certain you will have a nice evening.

Charley

[prasantrin]

I am almost certain you will have a nice evening.

Charley

Thanks again for the reply. I appreciate the help! I'm sure we'll have a great time! I'll try to report back after I return. Just three more weeks!!

[Schneier]

Last night I ate dinner at a nice Viennese restaurant called Drei Husaren, "Three Husars" to you. (It's near the Cathedral, Weihburggasse #4.)

I had a pumpkin cream soup with a scallop and a dollop of fresh heavy cream. Good, but I would have liked more pumpkin and less cream. And I had a wild rabbit fillet, with juniper sauce, lentils, savoy cabbage, and mashed potatoes formed into the shape of little rabbits and then gently fried. Wild rabbit tastes real different from the farmed rabbit that I generally cook. Delicious.

Cost, with a glass of wine, was 66 euros, including a small entertainment charge for the okay piano player.

[Jerry_A]

Hey everyone, I know it has been about a year since this thread was last replied to, but I just planned a vacation to Vienna for this winter and was wondering if most of the recommendations here still hold true?

In a nutshell, I am trying to find the following:

1. One or two fine dining experiences (one for a special occasion). I saw a couple of recommendations in this thread, but a lot can change in a year. Price is not an issue for these places, but I do not want to spend just for the sake of spending.

2. Any local "must-eat-at" places or any particular local specialties that must be enjoyed and where to enjoy them. I know I'm supposed to have a Sacher Torte, but there has been some debate as to where I should go to have it

I'll be there for about ten days or so, so there will be lots of time to pack food into my face

Thanks in advance for any help!

Cheers, Len

PS: Is it relatively easy to get by without knowing any German? I know only a couple of words and hoping that will suffice.

[cmling]

Interesting that you ask that question at this moment!
Only two days ago, I had one of the finest meals of my life at the Restaurant Coburg:
http://www.palais-co...restaurant.html
Unfortunately, the web site does not have the menu in English, and the wine list is also truncated: the real thing has over 100 pages!
I had a "Menu Surprise" (5 courses + amuse-bouches, pre-dessert, friandises: EUR 86) with a wine pairing (EUR 75).
I can find no fault with ANY aspect of the meal. It is my considered opinion that this is the finest restaurant in Vienna at the moment. Everyone I know who has been there agrees.

I do not claim to be an expert on the Sachertorte. The Hotel Sacher (where it originated) is a safe bet, of course, although that is where just about every tourist goes, so that it can be a bit crowded and hectic at times. To be honest, I think you will get a very good Sachertorte in just about any reputable café or pastry shop in the centre of town.

Speaking German? Don't worry. Tourism is a huge industry in Austria and the people who work in it have learned that a serviceable knowledge of English is a must. You will also find that most people under, say, 40 speak some English, too, no matter what field they work in. Don't expect the fluency of the Dutch or Scandinavians, though.

Hope you have a great trip!

Charley

[Jerry_A]

Thanks for the reply Charley, it is greatly appreciated.

I had actually been looking at Restaurant Coburg for my special event dinner. I figured the Michelin guide was as good a place as any to start and that was the first restaurant that popped up! Glad to hear you had such an enjoyable meal there! Is this a jacket and tie type place? Just need to know whether to pack for that!

Does anyone have an opinion on RieGi?: RieGiLink it looks really cool, but can not tell what the food is like.

I was also looking at Meinl's restaurant: Meinl Link

Thanks again, Len

[cmling]

Jacket and tie is certainly not compulsory, but you might want to wear that anway if it's a special event? Me, I find that it heightens my sense of expectation, and I am certainly not a jacket-and-tie person.
I think about half the male guests wore ties, and quite a few were not wearing jackets, but sweaters or something similar.

I haven't been to RieGi yet, but have heard good reports; it sounds very promising. I hope to eat there before winter, I'll let you know how it was!

I know Meinl am Graben quite well. Interestingly, Christian Petz, who is now the chef at the Coburg, was Meinl's first chef.
Meinl now also has a very fine chef (Joachim Gradwohl). I have eaten there often. I was never disappointed, but never enthralled. Prices are not much different from those at the Coburg (except that Meinl offers a three-course lunch at something like EUR 35, a nice deal; the Restaurant Coburg isn't open for lunch).
So: if you only go to one of these two, I strongly suggest the Restaurant Coburg.

Feel free to ask me anything else you might want to know!

Charley

[Jerry_A]

Thanks again Charley, this is all extremely helpful!

Unfortunately my dining companion just read about Restaurant Coburg in her guidebook and it mentioned pigeon and tripe dishes, so now I am going to have to use my massive powers of persuasion to get her there I have tried to find an English sample menu from them on the web to try and assuage her fears, but I have come up empty so far. Oh well, I like a challenge

Any recommendations for hole-in-the-wall type places that your average tourist may not know about? I do a lot of walking around when I travel and love to just stumble upon little places here and there, but I also have no problem making a special trip to a place, particularly if it has been recommended by a local, or even better, a local eGulleter

Take care, Len

[Cronenberg]

Hi,

I spent a couple of days in Vienna this summer, these are my recommendations, based on limited experience:

1. Skip Sachertorte, it's not worth it. Just a tourist thing, especially at Hotel Sacher.

2. Excellent 'ordinary' food at "Österreicher im MAK" an informal bistro-type restaurant in the Museum of Applied Arts, Museum für Angewandte Kunst, MAK, chef is Helmut Österreicher, former head chef at Steirereck.

3. We had the tasting menu at Steirereck, the new chef being as I understand Heinz Reitbauer, son of the owners, his wife runs hectically around the restaurant and plays the host. The food was partly great and partly not too convincing. The atmosphere is very nice, formal dining experience, set in a park.

4. Steirereck runs a café as well, excellent strudel, and light lunches.

5. Trzesniewski Sandwiches, a slightly strange specialty, interesting.

If I had had more time I might also have tried Meinl and Mraz & Sohn, which I have seen recommended several times.

You can take a look at my flickr account for pictures of 2, 3, 4, and 5.
click

Have a nice trip!

[Jerry_A]

Thanks for the recommendations Cronenberg. The pictures are fantastic!

I had actually been looking at the MAK for a visit, I'll definitely keep it on my list now.

Unfrtunately I just received a response from Restaurant Coburg and they are closed on the night of my special event (it's a Sunday) so I am just going to book it for another night. I'll need to find another great place for the Sunday night, if that is even possible.

Edit: maybe Steirereck would be a good choice?

Edited by Jerry_A, 22 October 2006 - 10:25 AM.

[Cronenberg]

Len,

Steirereck is a very nice place for a special occasion, very refined but not exactly relaxed.

To get into the spirit I suggest you also take a look at Singapore foodblogger Chubby Hubby's write-up of his Vienna-visit:
Chubby Hubby Vienna Guide

When I was searching the internet before my visit this summer I found this link helpful as well:
Vienna Restaurants

Enjoy your trip and let us know how you liked it.

Felix C.

[Rehovot]

Trzesniewski Sandwiches, a slightly strange specialty, interesting.

I'm addicted to this place. Every time we head to Vienna, I make a beeline for their sandwich buffet. Pfiff! More pfiff, pflease!

Sacher torte at the Hotel Sacher is vastly overrated; the best Sacher torte I've had in Vienna was at Cafe Braunerhof (Thomas Bernhard's haunt), where the slice was much tastier...not to mention more fresh.

This cafe also provides some of the best people- (and waiter-) watching in Vienna.

[Jerry_A]

Ok, I am very intrigued by Trzesniewski Sandwiches now. What is it about them that is so special?

Question #2: has anyone tried Stomach? Terrible name, but I have read some interesting things about it.

Looks like Cafe Braunerhof is the place we will go for Sacher torte, you are the second person to recommend it to me.

Thanks again for all of the information and links (I loved that Chubby Hubby one).

Cheers, Len

Edit: just found the Trzesniewski website Link, those sandwiches look very interesting. Too bad I can't read what they are made of

Edited by Jerry_A, 22 October 2006 - 12:54 PM.

[Carolyn Tillie]

Thanks for reviving this thread! K and I are looking for a December holiday and we've narrowed it down to Vienna or Barcelona... This has certainly swayed me (now I just have to convince him!)

[Rehovot]

Edit: just found the Trzesniewski website Link, those sandwiches look very interesting.  Too bad I can't read what they are made of 

Here's a quick-'n-dirty sampler translation. Someone who actually speaks German, please feel free to correct it. My other half (who does speak it) could only laugh hysterically at my pronunciation.

Ei mit Ei--egg with egg.
Champignon--mushrooms.
Geflügelleberaufstrich--goose liver pate.
Gervais mit Zwiebel--cheese (?) with onion.
Matjes mit Zwiebel--smoked fish with onion.
Matjes ohne Zwiebel--smoked fish without onion.
Speck mit Ei--better-than-salami with egg.
Zwiebeln mit Ei--onion with egg.
Ei mit zwiebeln--egg with onion. (Just kidding!)
Räucherlachs--smoked salmon.

Ah, you little guten brotchen.

[Jerry_A]

Thanks for reviving this thread! K and I are looking for a December holiday and we've narrowed it down to Vienna or Barcelona... This has certainly swayed me (now I just have to convince him!)

My pleasure. We were in a similar bind; it was a three way tie between Sydney, Lisbon, and Vienna and, well, you can guess how it turned out

[Jerry_A]

Edit: just found the Trzesniewski website Link, those sandwiches look very interesting.  Too bad I can't read what they are made of 

Here's a quick-'n-dirty sampler translation. Someone who actually speaks German, please feel free to correct it. My other half (who does speak it) could only laugh hysterically at my pronunciation.

Ei mit Ei--egg with egg.
Champignon--mushrooms.
Geflügelleberaufstrich--goose liver pate.
Gervais mit Zwiebel--cheese (?) with onion.
Matjes mit Zwiebel--smoked fish with onion.
Matjes ohne Zwiebel--smoked fish without onion.
Speck mit Ei--better-than-salami with egg.
Zwiebeln mit Ei--onion with egg.
Ei mit zwiebeln--egg with onion. (Just kidding!)
Räucherlachs--smoked salmon.

Ah, you little guten brotchen.

Fantastic, thanks for that! Those sound divine! What exactly is "better-than-salami'? Or were you editorializing for our benefit

[David McDuff]

Unfortunately my dining companion just read about Restaurant Coburg in her guidebook and it mentioned pigeon and tripe dishes, so now I am going to have to use my massive powers of persuasion to get her there    I have tried to find an English sample menu from them on the web to try and assuage her fears, but I have come up empty so far.  Oh well, I like a challenge 

Len,

My wife and I enjoyed a special occasion meal at Palais Coburg in September. It was fantastic and certainly the most polished and cutting-edge meal of the trip. We opted for the "Menu Surprise" with wine pairings (all Austrian) selected by the sommelier. I happen to have asked our waiter for a copy of the menu; he obliged with the English version. Here it is....

[KatieLoeb]

My wife and I enjoyed a special occasion meal at Palais Coburg in September. It was fantastic and certainly the most polished and cutting-edge meal of the trip. We opted for the "Menu Surprise" with wine pairings (all Austrian) selected by the sommelier.

David:

That looks fantastic! Do you remember any of the wines that you tried?

[cmling]

I have a sentimental attachment to the Steiereck; I followed them from their very modest beginnings to the giddy heights they achieved. (Interesting to note that Chef Helmut Österreicher's years of service were the same as those of Pope John Paul II.)
My last visit left me disappointed. However, I have heard that they are hitting their stride again, and I certainly wish them well.
Mraz & Sohn also seemed to me not to be what it was on my last visit. Excursions into foams and smoke, etc. didn't work at all. But all credit to them for trying to keep up with the Adrias, I suppose.
Coburg. I'll say it again: Coburg.

(What MIGHT just be a competitor is the Restaurant Korso at the Hotel Bristol. You'll have to be there on a good day, and you'll have to put yourself - most declaredly - in the hands of Chef Reinhard Gerer, who is one of Austria's greatest chefs, as no one will deny, but sometimes one of the laziest, too. I haven't been there since the sommelier recommended an Armagnac [Laberdolive, yes, but not ancient] that cost USD 50 without mentioning the cost and professed his own astonishment when the bill arrived.)
But, well: Coburg. And as I said, you can prevent unpleasant surprises on the "Menu Surprise" by making your wishes known.

Charley

Oh: Geflügelleberaufstrich is a spread of poultry livers. Chickens surely, geese probably not.

[David McDuff]

David:

That looks fantastic!  Do you remember any of the wines that you tried?

Katie,
I have to admit that sometimes my notekeeping takes a back seat to the spirit of the moment. In other words, I don't have a detailed recollection of the wines. The standouts were a fantastic Riesling Smaragd from Prager, a vibrant Blaufrankisch from the Burgenland and one of many stickies enjoyed on the trip from Alois Kracher. The rest, I'm afraid, is a distant blur....

Edited by David McDuff, 22 October 2006 - 07:48 PM.

[Jerry_A]

Unfortunately my dining companion just read about Restaurant Coburg in her guidebook and it mentioned pigeon and tripe dishes, so now I am going to have to use my massive powers of persuasion to get her there    I have tried to find an English sample menu from them on the web to try and assuage her fears, but I have come up empty so far.  Oh well, I like a challenge 

Len,

My wife and I enjoyed a special occasion meal at Palais Coburg in September. It was fantastic and certainly the most polished and cutting-edge meal of the trip. We opted for the "Menu Surprise" with wine pairings (all Austrian) selected by the sommelier. I happen to have asked our waiter for a copy of the menu; he obliged with the English version. Here it is....

Wow David, that looks absolutely amazing, thank you so much. I have gone ahead and requested a night there later in the week and it seems they will be willing to accomodate special requests if need be. I am very excited to try it!

The more research I do into Viennese dining, and the more I read from all of you, the more impatient I become! I can hardly wait for my trip to get here!

Thanks to all for the help so far!

Len

[KatieLoeb]

David:

That looks fantastic!  Do you remember any of the wines that you tried?

Katie,
I have to admit that sometimes my notekeeping takes a back seat to the spirit of the moment. In other words, I don't have a detailed recollection of the wines. The standouts were a fantastic Riesling Smaragd from Prager, a vibrant Blaufrankisch from the Burgenland and one of many stickies enjoyed on the trip from Alois Kracher. The rest, I'm afraid, is a distant blur....

The ones you've remembered sound delicious. I've loved all of the wines from Prager and Kracher that I've ever tried. Pichler and Heidi Schrock are two of my other favorites.

[ludja]

Thank you everyone for the all the recent information, including the Palais Coburg menu provided by David McDuff and the informative links by Cronenberg.

I'm hoping to visit Vienna for a week or so next summer so this is really whetting my appetite. I've been to Vienna several times but only as day trips from Graz!

I love the tip on the Trzesniewski brotchen place! Brotchens are one of my favorite snacks to get in Austria, perhaps with a Pfiff or more of beer. Trzesniewski's brotchen are interesting in that all the brotchen they show are of the 'spread' type rather than some with slices of coldcuts like salami, etc. That being said, Fleischsalat is one of my favorite toppings.

Does anyone have opinions on Plachutta and whether that is the place to go for a classic Tafelspitz with all the accompaniements?

Thank you...

ludja

[cmling]

A further note about the Restaurant Coburg and Kracher's "stickies" (I like that term!). The wine accompaniment to my "menu surprise" included a Muscat-Ottonel Beerenauslese specially made (if that's the word) for the restaurant. Delicious, of course, Kracher can do no wrong.

Trzesniewski is indeed something very special. Do go if you can. I wouldn't claim their Brötchen are something to be worshipped, but they can become strangely addictive...

Plachutta will perform reliably. It is not a favourite of mine; the operation seems soulless, impersonal, and streamlined to me. You will get a good meal, I am sure. I wish I could direct you to the Tafelspitz of my dreams, but I can't. I had that at a restaurant that no longer exists, its chef was Joachim Gradwohl, who replaced Christian Petz at Meinl am Graben, the latter now at the Restaurant Coburg.
And so the circle is closed.

Charley

[ludja]

...
Plachutta will perform reliably.  It is not a favourite of mine; the operation seems soulless, impersonal, and streamlined to me.  You will get a good meal, I am sure.  I wish I could direct you to the Tafelspitz of my dreams, but I can't.  I had that at a restaurant that no longer exists, its chef was Joachim Gradwohl, who replaced Christian Petz at Meinl am Graben, the latter now at the Restaurant Coburg.
And so the circle is closed.

Charley

Thank you for a detailed description. Wie Schade, I had heard good things of Meinl am Graben. Did this restaurant close relatively recently and why did it close? (if anyone knows) Is Joachim Gradwohl at a new restaurant in Vienna?

In any case, I guess it joined history with another legendary Tafelspitz place I've read about, Meissel and Schadn's.

edited to add: If anyone has any other recommendations for places selling brotchens, I love to hear of them. I'll have plenty of time to check out more than one place...

Edited by ludja, 23 October 2006 - 01:12 PM.