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Report: eG Chocolate and Confectionery Workshop 2014

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#121 Kerry Beal

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Posted 26 May 2014 - 04:42 PM

The thinning is done with a regular PDF not necessary for the pectin NH version.



#122 Tri2Cook

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Posted 26 May 2014 - 06:15 PM

The thinning is done with a regular PDF not necessary for the pectin NH version.


Yep, got that. It's the thinning of a regular PDF with fruit puree to make it pipeable that caught my attention. I like the idea that, if you're going to thin it for piping, might as well add some additional flavor and freshness by using fruit puree.

 


It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

#123 lebowits

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 11:33 AM

My notes say that Jean Marie expects 90 day (60 day guarantee) shelf life @ 0.62 aW and that 0.72 - 0.75 aW = maybe 5 weeks life.  What was that one ganache Melissa made, 0.96, I think?, and he said "Eat it within one day".

 

In the class I took recently in Chicago with Chef Mattieu Barriqualt, a table was included which indicated the expected shelf life of a ganache or other center within a range of Aw.  I've reproduced the table below for reference.  Chef Barriqualt has been consulting with a company for quite a while in crafting products with a shelf life of nearly a year.  During the class, he related some of the things they were doing to achieve an Aw < 0.65 and while it was technically interesting, I'm not sure that any of us would or possibly even could achieve this mark.

 

         Aw                  Shelf Life Expected

===============================

       > 0.90                     < 3 weeks

0.85 < Aw < 0.90         3 – 6 weeks

0.75 < Aw < 0.85      6 – 12 weeks (3 months)
0.65 < Aw < 0.75      3 – 6 months

        < 0.65                  > 6 months

 

As I was reworking one of my own very simple ganaches (2:1 74% chocolate), I was able to get it under to 0.84 from a previous 0.87 with small substituions of sugars (replacing some glucose with invert & sorbitol) and reducing the amount of chocolate by a few grams.

 

Happy formulating!


Edited by lebowits, 27 May 2014 - 11:37 AM.

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Steve Lebowitz
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Steven Howard Confections

Slicing a warm slab of bacon is a lot like giving a ferret a shave. No matter how careful you are, somebody's going to get hurt - Alton Brown, "Good Eats"

#124 Jim D.

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 12:07 PM

In the class I took recently in Chicago with Chef Mattieu Barriqualt, a table was included which indicated the expected shelf life of a ganache or other center within a range of Aw.  I've reproduced the table below for reference. 

Thanks for that helpful chart and the insights.  Do you have one of those meters to test Aw?

 

I understand the impact of substituting invert sugar and sorbitol for glucose, but I'm not clear why reducing the chocolate would help.  Can you explain?  Thanks.



#125 lebowits

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Posted 27 May 2014 - 01:47 PM

Thanks for that helpful chart and the insights.  Do you have one of those meters to test Aw?

 

I understand the impact of substituting invert sugar and sorbitol for glucose, but I'm not clear why reducing the chocolate would help.  Can you explain?  Thanks.In

I don't have an Aw meter.  They seem to be rather pricey.  Chef had one in the class but it needed to go back to the manufacturer for re-calibration.

 

Reducing the chocolate didn't necessarily help with the Aw.  One of the things I was trying to do was to create a slightly softer and smoother ganache.  Removing a bit of the chocolate took out a small amount of sugar, but more importantly, reduced the amount of dry matter with respect to the amount of liquid.  This in a very small way, helped give me a softer product.


Steve Lebowitz
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Steven Howard Confections

Slicing a warm slab of bacon is a lot like giving a ferret a shave. No matter how careful you are, somebody's going to get hurt - Alton Brown, "Good Eats"

#126 lambrecht gourmet

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Posted 28 May 2014 - 02:51 PM

Melissa kindly sent me the recipe for Gianduja Delice. 

It is in French so I'll translate what I can.

 

Processus                    (g)                     Ingredients               %

Caramel 170                390                    sucrose                   19,69

                                    100                     sorbitol powder        5,05

                                     70                      glucose atomise      3,53

                                     130                    water                        5,56

                                     395                    noisette                    19,94

                                     345                    pate de noisette        17,42

                                     500                    milk choc couverture  25,25

                                     50                       cocoa butter             2,52

 

produces: 1980 g               sugar: 39,38 %      Between 40 &50%

sweetening index: 0,34%   cocoa butter: 41,04 minimum 32%

AW: 0,6152                        fat matter: 24,11     minimum  20%

                                                   EST: 92,53     between 95 & 100%

Est translates as "is", so not really sure what it means.

This is how it was sent to me so good luck. 


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#127 lebowits

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 06:15 AM

Melissa kindly sent me the recipe for Gianduja Delice. 

It is in French so I'll translate what I can.

 

Processus                    (g)                     Ingredients               %

Caramel 170                390                    sucrose                   19,69

                                    100                     sorbitol powder        5,05

                                     70                      glucose atomise      3,53

                                     130                    water                        5,56

                                     395                    noisette                    19,94

                                     345                    pate de noisette        17,42

                                     500                    milk choc couverture  25,25

                                     50                       cocoa butter             2,52

 

produces: 1980 g               sugar: 39,38 %      Between 40 &50%

sweetening index: 0,34%   cocoa butter: 41,04 minimum 32%

AW: 0,6152                        fat matter: 24,11     minimum  20%

                                                   EST: 92,53     between 95 & 100%

Est translates as "is", so not really sure what it means.

This is how it was sent to me so good luck. 

 

What are "noisette" and "pate de noisette"?


Steve Lebowitz
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Steven Howard Confections

Slicing a warm slab of bacon is a lot like giving a ferret a shave. No matter how careful you are, somebody's going to get hurt - Alton Brown, "Good Eats"

#128 gfron1

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 07:26 AM

Noisette is just hazelnut


Chef, Curious Kumquat, Silver City, NM


#129 mostlylana

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 10:14 AM

And pate de noisette is Hazelnut Paste.



#130 lebowits

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 02:01 PM

And pate de noisette is Hazelnut Paste.

That was my suspicion, but wanted to be sure.


Steve Lebowitz
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Steven Howard Confections

Slicing a warm slab of bacon is a lot like giving a ferret a shave. No matter how careful you are, somebody's going to get hurt - Alton Brown, "Good Eats"

#131 Chocolot

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Posted 29 May 2014 - 07:50 PM

pano.jpg

 

A few more photos from the workshop. A pano of the group.

 

at door.jpg

 

David S. Bob, Lionel, Sarah, Donna. Arriving for first day.

 

jmahd.jpg

 

Jean Marie stopped by on Sunday in his Harley outfit.


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#132 Lior

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Posted 04 June 2014 - 01:12 PM

I don't know if you people know this, but I found it while researching (www.novosina.ch):
 

Typical Chocolate Values 
 
 
Raw Materials and semi-products: 
 
Type Typical aw-values 
Cream 0.99-1.00 aw 
Butter 0.95-0.98 aw 
Glucose 0.70-0.72 aw 
Sorbitol Powder approx. 0.30 aw 
Couverture 0.30 aw 
Milk Powder 0.20-0.25 aw 
Fruits, nuts and other fillings typically have an aw-value of 0.40-0.90aw 
 
 
Fillings: 
 
Type Typical aw-values 
Fat-based fillings as Gianduja 
or chocolate truffle fillings 0.20-0.35 aw 
Caramel 0.65-0.70 aw 
Almond paste (marzipan) 0.73-0.80 aw 
Sorbitol Powder approx. 0.30 aw 
Couverture 0.30 aw 
 
 
Chocolate without filling: 0.4-0.5 aw

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#133 mostlylana

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Posted 06 June 2014 - 11:32 PM

 

I don't know if you people know this, but I found it while researching (www.novosina.ch):
 

Typical Chocolate Values 
 
 
Raw Materials and semi-products: 
 
Type Typical aw-values 
Cream 0.99-1.00 aw 
Butter 0.95-0.98 aw 
Glucose 0.70-0.72 aw 
Sorbitol Powder approx. 0.30 aw 
Couverture 0.30 aw 
Milk Powder 0.20-0.25 aw 
Fruits, nuts and other fillings typically have an aw-value of 0.40-0.90aw 
 
 
Fillings: 
 
Type Typical aw-values 
Fat-based fillings as Gianduja 
or chocolate truffle fillings 0.20-0.35 aw 
Caramel 0.65-0.70 aw 
Almond paste (marzipan) 0.73-0.80 aw 
Sorbitol Powder approx. 0.30 aw 
Couverture 0.30 aw 
 
 
Chocolate without filling: 0.4-0.5 aw

 

 

Ilana, this is awesome!  Thank you so much for posting it.  

It seems like such a long time since we've connected.  I hope you are well and still loving making chocolates :)


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#134 Lior

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 05:14 AM

thank you, Lana!! Yes, I have not been around for too long. Been a bit up and down round here and I am now trying to get back into chocolates. Hope you are well and all into chocolates!! xx



#135 Smithy

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 08:37 PM

Host's note: a series of discussions about how to get molds for chocolate clean that began here has been moved to Lior's new topic, "Cleaning Molds for Chocolate", which can be found here: http://forums.egulle...-for-chocolate/. This was done to allow the problem and solution to be discussed in one location after this excellent report has faded into the background.
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