Duck Pressing Revival
Posted 16 March 2014 - 02:17 PM
...I just let people know about something I made for supper that they might enjoy, too. That's all it is. (Nigel Slater)
"Never call a stomach a tummy without good reason.” William Strunk Jr., The Elements of Style
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Posted 16 March 2014 - 02:24 PM
Interesting: I was unfamiliar with the unusual way ducks used to be killed when used in this dish. The article notes
But then came an unexpected revival. In 2008 Daniel Boulud’s great kitchen team found a way to make the dish at his eponymous Manhattan restaurant with a legally bled duck marinated in port and red currant jelly, and it promptly topped GQ’s list of best dishes of the year.
Does anyone know the details of Boulud's preparation?
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Posted 16 March 2014 - 03:05 PM
I have my eyes on duck press at Sur la Table for years. 2K price tag is ridiculous though.
Posted 16 March 2014 - 03:11 PM
its said to be in this book:
Daniel: My French Cuisine
Its on display at my local lib. Ill take a look if I can remember.
Posted 16 March 2014 - 05:58 PM
I think the slaughter method may have some translation issues. I don't remember what it is in the original French, but I've seen it rendered as 'strangled', rather than the linked article's 'suffocated'.
As far as I can see (having not molested any ducks myself, that I can recall), if the purpose is to retain the blood any method which doesn't involve putting holes in the duck would be fine. This probably - I'm guessing - extends as far as electric shock, or a simple whack on the head. Or should that be a quack on the head?
I had La Tour d'Argent's celebrated duck a couple of years ago. Tasty, certainly. Tender? Far from it. I can do much better at home. But the place itself is stunning.
Posted 17 March 2014 - 08:10 AM
Ive borrowed the book. Its impressive. are the Rx's in it full and complete? cant say. the last high-end rest. book Ive cooked from was "Happy in the Kitchen" those Rx's were complete. Michel Richard's the real deal. Happy guy too. Batali's : not so much
'Canard a la Presse" pp 294 - 297. a bit of history, nice pics. no full Rx.
'Until now, the only 'prep' in preparing D a l P was acquiring the bird' its juices were the sauce. a bit of veal stock, splash of Cognac, knob of butter.'
D' takes the Rx from the Robertson's circa 1900 where the press went from the 21 Club.
Robertson Rx includes a self evident marinade. Port, jar of red current jelly, Orange and lemon zest. a lot of pepper. duck submerged until plump.
at D's this is vacuum bagged. skin is slit. no mention of how the duck is cooked, but it seems to be cooked ( breast ) iin a pan and finished in the oven.
"when the carcass is now pressed, the liquid is deep and dark. It produces a sauce so unusual than on tasting it, I finally understood that the duck is almost immaterial. The dish is what you coat it with. What matters is the sauce."
no other information. not on the duck used, cook times for the carcass etc. nice pics though.
bet this dish is pretty $$$$. bet also the duck breast delivered sur la plate is perfect in every way.
Who's going to D's and reporting back ?
Edited by rotuts, 17 March 2014 - 08:59 AM.