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Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 2)

Charcuterie Cookbook

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#1 ChrisTaylor

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 11:54 PM

[Moderator note: The original Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 1)]

 

 

 

 

DSC_0007-1.jpg

Duck prosciutto.


Edited by Mjx, 20 July 2013 - 01:54 AM.
Moderator note added.

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#2 Mjx

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:37 AM

Damn. That duck prosciutto is impressively beautiful and delicious-looking.

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#3 ChrisTaylor

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 12:43 AM

It's salty good. Saving the second piece for an upcoming dinner, I think. In the freezer so I kind of forget about it.

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#4 thirtyoneknots

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 04:56 PM

So twice now I've attempted to make the venison terrine with cherries from this book, and both times led to heartbreaking failure when the emulsion broke or partly broke during cooking. Venison was free both times, but since it's been several years since I myself have gotten to take a deer, I must rely on the generosity of friends and family, and every scrap is precious.

So after a recent success with a similar emulsified forcemeat terrine I thought back to the venison one from this book, and realized that there was no panade of any kind--just cream, egg whites, and reduced marinade. Every single successful pate or terrine I have ever made (about 6-8) has had a bread or flour panade. The only two complete failures I've ever experienced was this recipe, which lacks it.

So what do y'all think? Coincidence? Anybody had success making the venison terrine as written? I know I won't be trying it again without some serious modification.
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#5 BadRabbit

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 11:30 AM

So twice now I've attempted to make the venison terrine with cherries from this book, and both times led to heartbreaking failure when the emulsion broke or partly broke during cooking. Venison was free both times, but since it's been several years since I myself have gotten to take a deer, I must rely on the generosity of friends and family, and every scrap is precious.

So after a recent success with a similar emulsified forcemeat terrine I thought back to the venison one from this book, and realized that there was no panade of any kind--just cream, egg whites, and reduced marinade. Every single successful pate or terrine I have ever made (about 6-8) has had a bread or flour panade. The only two complete failures I've ever experienced was this recipe, which lacks it.

So what do y'all think? Coincidence? Anybody had success making the venison terrine as written? I know I won't be trying it again without some serious modification.



I actually looked at that recipe and in my head said "That will never hold together."

#6 thirtyoneknots

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 12:09 PM


So twice now I've attempted to make the venison terrine with cherries from this book, and both times led to heartbreaking failure when the emulsion broke or partly broke during cooking. Venison was free both times, but since it's been several years since I myself have gotten to take a deer, I must rely on the generosity of friends and family, and every scrap is precious.

So after a recent success with a similar emulsified forcemeat terrine I thought back to the venison one from this book, and realized that there was no panade of any kind--just cream, egg whites, and reduced marinade. Every single successful pate or terrine I have ever made (about 6-8) has had a bread or flour panade. The only two complete failures I've ever experienced was this recipe, which lacks it.

So what do y'all think? Coincidence? Anybody had success making the venison terrine as written? I know I won't be trying it again without some serious modification.



I actually looked at that recipe and in my head said "That will never hold together."


Yeah I feel kind of dumb for making it once, much less twice. But I have no shame, especially on eGullet.
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#7 jrvicepresident

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 03:46 PM

Hi

I've been looking at ordering this book online but can't seem to find out if it has a recipie for Salametti. The index listed on here doesn't show it, unless it in in the Salami section? Can anyone who has the book look and let me know?

Thanks.

#8 ElsieD

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Posted 08 October 2012 - 04:05 PM

In the index under Salami they have Hungarian and Tuscan. Salametti is not listed at all in the index.

#9 FrogPrincesse

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 04:01 PM

I am going through photos of the various items from Charcuterie that I made so far, including a bunch of them from last year's Charcutepalooza challenges.

Starting with the salt-cured items...

Fresh bacon
My advice would be to buy a lot of pork belly - at least 6 pounds, but 10 is better (just double whatever you think you will need). Your butcher will love you and you will end up giving most of it away to friends and family, plus it freezes very well (I slice it and freeze 6 slices in a ziploc bag).


Posted Image

Duck Prosciutto
This must be one of my favorite recipes from the book so far. It is fantastic with a (large) moulard breast, but any duck breast can do. Mine loses typically 30% weight at the end of the curing process, but I don't weight it anymore, I just judge by feel to determine if it needs further drying. I like to slice it super thin.

Posted Image

I've been making this on a regular basis for almost two years now. It's very good on its own as a little pre-dinner snack (with a cocktail of course), or as a garnish for soup (shown here with a root vegetable soup, from the Soup thread).

Posted Image

Brined Pork Chops
I can't seem find a photo of the finished product, but in any case I found them too salty for my taste.

Posted Image


Corned Beef
This is something terribly exotic for me, having grown up in France where I had never heard of it. But it took the plunge and loved the result. The meat was extremely moist and flavorful at the end of the process. Once I had cured the corned beef, I used the recipe from Lucques to serve it (more details on the recipe in the Lucques thread).

Posted Image

Home-cured sauerkraut
No photos as it smelled off at the end of the (long) process with pink slime as a bonus, and I ended up throwing it away.

#10 FrogPrincesse

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 04:42 PM

Moving on to smoked foods.

I believe the only item I've attempted in that category is the maple-cured smoked bacon. For detailed pictures of the process see on my foodblog here. It's good stuff, a little sweet for me. I still have my stovetop smoker that I've been using on my grill for non-charcuterie items (potatoes are a favorite). I need to explore this category a little more but if I remember correctly most items in the book are cold-smoked, which is not easy to do without additional equipment.

Posted Image


Sausages

Breakfast sausage
Inexplicably I don't have any pictures but I really liked these. The ginger-sage combination is excellent. I am not a big breakfast person but this gets me salivating. I need to make another batch soon!

As for stuffed sausages, since the sweet Italian sausage I made last year, I haven't had the energy to make them again. It is quite an involved process especially with the Kitchenaid stuffer attachment, and I don't feel that it would make sense for me to buy a dedicated stuffer. I can find excellent sausages locally and I was not crazy about the texture of the ones I made (see the grinding process here and the stuffing here). I did find that they kept very well frozen, so again my advice would be to make a double or triple batch and freeze the leftovers with each sausage individually wrapped in plastic.

Posted Image

#11 FrogPrincesse

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Posted 18 October 2012 - 05:04 PM

One the topic of sausages it is extremely bizarre to see a merguez recipe in the book which includes PORK fat. Merguez is always lamb or beef.

In the "dry-cured foods" category there is a gem. You see, since moving to the US a while ago, I have not been able to find the equivalent of Saucisson Sec here and have to rely on visits from family or friends to smuggle some for me. So I was quite excited to find a recipe for saucisson sec in the book and have been making it regularly. Again I make large batches. They make excellent gifts and last for a few months in the fridge (I like mine extra-sec).

The prep is easy. Pork shoulder and fat are fed into the meat grinder.

Posted Image

The texture should be on the coarse side with little pieces of fat still clearly visible (I used the biggest die that came with the Kitchenaid grinder, but something bigger would be even better).

Posted Image

The seasonings are just salt and pepper, sugar, garlic and curing salt #2.
After the dreaded stuffing process (make sure you have a helper if you are using the Kitchenaid stuffing attachment), they are ready to go in the curing chamber (aka spare fridge) for a month or so.

Posted Image

Amazing how fresh pork can transform into this after a few weeks.

Posted Image

#12 radtek

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 03:30 PM

Unbeknownst to me I've been doing charcuterie for most of my life- but on the BBQ side. As a result of watching the "American Heartland" episode of NR I bought Ruhlman and Polcyn's book "Charcuterie" and the Marianski Bros' "Home Production of Quality Meats and Sausages". As soon as it came out I had "Salumi" shipped to me. I am very late to this side of the game!

Bought a separate mixer, grinder and 5# stuffer which is the only way to go in my book.

Have made countless batches of sausage and smoked, poached and #1 cured to my hearts content. I must say that Ruhlman's "Master Garlic Sausage" recipe is exemplary. Make it a lot and this as it is a good base for fresh sausage. Bacon, pancetta, guanciale and filleto are staples now in my kitchen. Pate and rilletes as well though this is not made nearly enough!

What I want to do ultimately is fermented sausage which to me is the pinnacle of the craft. I'm just waiting on figuring out the starter culture and getting my fermentation chamber dialed in.

A pic of one of my fermentation chambers:
Posted Image

The problem with a chest freezer is that the humidity levels can remain very high due to when opening the lid as air does not flow out. I have quite a bit of damp-rid and salt in there to absorb moisture- think I can maintain 65% humidity now. Also- one should be careful when "squeezing" the meat early on as a gauge for doneness as mold can develop- contaminated even by clean fingers! I bought a spray bottle that is filled with vinegar to combat any of the nasties. Might investigate light smoking prior to placing in the chamber...

I'm very passionate about this pursuit. My family accepts my gifts of charcuterie only to humor me I'm afraid.

#13 mkayahara

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 06:16 AM

Home-cured sauerkraut
No photos as it smelled off at the end of the (long) process with pink slime as a bonus, and I ended up throwing it away.

That's a shame: I've made the home-cured Sauerkraut and really enjoyed it. The texture was much better than canned or jarred products, and you have a lot more control over the level of sourness. Did you keep it properly submerged in the brine? What temperature were you fermenting at?

One the topic of sausages it is extremely bizarre to see a merguez recipe in the book which includes PORK fat. Merguez is always lamb or beef.

Not to mention the inclusion of red wine... clearly a merguez-inspired sausage, not the real deal.
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#14 FrogPrincesse

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 10:20 AM


Home-cured sauerkraut
No photos as it smelled off at the end of the (long) process with pink slime as a bonus, and I ended up throwing it away.

That's a shame: I've made the home-cured Sauerkraut and really enjoyed it. The texture was much better than canned or jarred products, and you have a lot more control over the level of sourness. Did you keep it properly submerged in the brine? What temperature were you fermenting at?


Submerged in brine, room temperature, protected from light (in a cupboard).

#15 Luke

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 03:59 AM

Has anyone hot smoked their home made bacon twice?

 

I like my smoke but I dont have a cold smoker, and my hot smoker is one of those stainless-steel fish smokers about the size of a medium apple packaging box. I smoke plenty of trout in it, about 30 mins for them, but I am a little worried it might get the bacon too hot too quickly.

 

So I was wondering, could you smoke until the internal temp reaches 65 deg cel, remove, cool, chill in fridge overnight and do the process again.

 

I guess I could freeze or semi-freeze the bacon before smoking, which in theory would mean it would take longer to get to 65 deg cel internal, therefore more time in the smoke.

 

On second thoughts, I have never tried turning the alcohol burning flame down...which might work, but might also just produce less smoke too.

 

Looking forward to my first bacon which is currently curing!

 

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#16 ninagluck

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 08:31 AM

Luke, do you have an outdoor grill, like a weber? you could try to coldsmoke in there!



#17 Steve Irby

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 05:17 PM

Guanciale from a Tamworth hog. Cured with salt, pepper, rosemary and garlic.  Left in the utility fridge (no defrost cycle) for about three weeks.  P1000529(1).JPG

  

Mulberry smoked bacon from same hog. P1000502(1).JPG



#18 DiggingDogFarm

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 05:21 PM

Looks great Steve.

 

 

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#19 nickrey

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Posted 19 July 2013 - 11:01 PM

I notice that there is a revised and updated version of the book coming out soon.

 

Does anyone have any ideas of how much it is revised and updated?


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#20 vittorio

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Posted 11 August 2013 - 03:04 PM

[Moderator note: The original Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" topic became too large for our servers to handle efficiently, so we've divided it up; the preceding part of this discussion is here: Cooking with Ruhlman & Polcyn's "Charcuterie" (Part 1)]

 

 

 

 

DSC_0007-1.jpg

Duck prosciutto.

Nice colors



#21 FrogPrincesse

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Posted 22 November 2013 - 02:02 PM

A recent 7-pound batch of fresh (unsmoked) bacon. Great stuff. I use some of it right away, give some to friends, and freeze the rest.

 

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#22 rotuts

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Posted 22 November 2013 - 02:34 PM

that looks so tasty.

 

but if its un smoked and not brined  its really pork belly?  Id love some of that!

 

not being a Utzz   :biggrin:

 

what did you do with the slices?


Edited by rotuts, 22 November 2013 - 02:36 PM.


#23 FrogPrincesse

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Posted 22 November 2013 - 02:50 PM

that looks so tasty.

 

but if its un smoked and not brined  its really pork belly?  Id love some of that!

 

not being a Utzz   :biggrin:

 

what did you do with the slices?

 

Well it's cured, so it's bacon.

 

Some slices were diced and used as a garnish for soup. Most were fried for breakfast. Some went into quiche lorraine. My friends snatched the rest.


Edited by FrogPrincesse, 22 November 2013 - 03:01 PM.


#24 rotuts

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Posted 22 November 2013 - 03:40 PM

Sorry.  I missed the cured part.  delicious I bet.



#25 ChrisTaylor

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 07:58 PM

I made two different sausages over the weekend. The breakfast sausages from Charcuterie and, from another book, the Daylesford Bull-Boar. The latter is a sausage unique to a small region in the old goldfields in my state. It's based on a traditional style of sausage brought over by Swiss-Italian migrants during the gold rush. As the name suggests it combines beef and pork. It's heavily spiced and jacked with red wine.


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#26 Merkinz

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 08:54 PM

Hey people. Been a while since I've posted I think. I still read regularly however :)

 

I just started walking down the Charcuterie lane and I have an issue I need help with.

 

The other week at the supermaket here in New Zealand they had "Half Price Whole Scotch Roasts" of pig. "Scotch fillet" is a fairly common cut here. It's usually sliced into steaks and people fry them up like that. I know it comes form the 'upper shoulder / neck' region and is usually more expensive than the 'shoulder roasts' we get here because of the higher fat content and lack of any bone. I couldn't resist the price so I bought one and froze it to use later for whatever comes to mind.

 

Now I'm working on a few charcuterie projects and one of the ones I wanted to try was Coppa. I have some understanding of where the coppa cut comes from but you never see a "Coppa" cut at the butchers around here. The butchers I've asked as well have no idea what it is.

 

Now going back and looking at the 'Scotch Roast' I bought, it looks like it might be a Coppa, a half of a Coppa, a portion of the Coppa, or simply come from the same region of the Coppa. Can someone please help me identify what I bought, tell me if it's a Coppa (whole or part) and if I can cure and dry it. It is in the 5 - 6lb realm if memory serves me correct. Any help, even a point in the right direction would be of immense help right now.

 

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#27 lesliec

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 10:19 PM

Hey, Merkinz.  Good to have you back.

 

A while ago you were talking about moving to Wellington.  If you did, go and see Preston's in Hopper Street; specifically a gentleman called Fred.  He's the guy I go to for obscurities - he did me a saddle of lamb a while back.


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#28 Merkinz

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 10:29 PM

Hey, Merkinz.  Good to have you back.

 

A while ago you were talking about moving to Wellington.  If you did, go and see Preston's in Hopper Street; specifically a gentleman called Fred.  He's the guy I go to for obscurities - he did me a saddle of lamb a while back.

 

HAH! yes! I remember, and yes I did just move back to Wellington! Great to be 'home' :biggrin:  (eastbourne).

 

I've been getting alot of belly from prestons lately for bacon and I just got an 'eye of round' for bresaola. I love that place. :wub:

 

I'm still keen to know more about this 'Scotch Roast' thought. They come up on special occasionally and if they actually happen to be a specific cut I can use for charcuterie it might save me alot of money as every time I've been to a butcher in the past reqesting a 'custom cut' it has cost me an arm and a leg.

 

I just got a wine fridge for curing and it holds a nice steady humidity (70 - 75%). I'm really excited about the things I can cure. :rolleyes:



#29 lesliec

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 10:34 PM

Fred's your man.


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#30 Dave the Cook

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Posted 23 April 2014 - 10:48 PM

That looks very much like what we in the US would call a "Boston Butt." Here, it's usually rolled and tied for roasting, but to me it looks like it would be fine for Coppa. However, given the large isolated areas of fat, it's probably just as good very coarsely ground, in any number of other pork-based sausages. Myself, I'd be thinking Cajun-style andouille. (But then, I'm often thinking about Cajun-style andouille.)


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