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Dinner! 2013 (Part 3)


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#91 huiray

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:05 AM

.....

 

I recently picked up the Volt Ink cookbook, and here's my first attempt at cooking from it. It's supposed to be a modern take on stir-fry beef with broccoli. The components include sous vide boneless short ribs, creamy broccoli puree, spicy soy caramel, deep fried dehydrated broccoli, deyhdrated horseradish foam, and broccolini.

 

Turned out really well - with special mention to the broccoli puree. Instead of puree'ing the broccoli stalks, they were juiced then blended with cream, sauteed broccoli crowns, xanthan gum, salt, and butter.

 

http://25.media.tumb...hqcjo1_1280.jpg

 

Huh. I've had the VOLT ink. book for about 2 years but have not actually made anything from it...I went through it more as an illustration of what Michael Voltaggio was wont to do.  I might look at it again, even if it uses lots of "Modernist" techniques.

 

I presume you mean the recipe on page 211?  The one using beef short ribs, the one titled "Beef with Cream of Dehydrated Broccoli, Horseradish "Styrofoam", Caramelized Soy" ?  Definitely a Modernist recipe, with use of a recirculating bath, a dehydrator, and other tricks.



#92 Baselerd

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:30 AM

Thanks keith!

 

Huh. I've had the VOLT ink. book for about 2 years but have not actually made anything from it...I went through it more as an illustration of what Michael Voltaggio was wont to do.  I might look at it again, even if it uses lots of "Modernist" techniques.

 

I presume you mean the recipe on page 211?  The one using beef short ribs, the one titled "Beef with Cream of Dehydrated Broccoli, Horseradish "Styrofoam", Caramelized Soy" ?  Definitely a Modernist recipe, with use of a recirculating bath, a dehydrator, and other tricks.

 

Yep that's the recipe - I deviated a bit on the short rib preparation though, since I prefer my short ribs at a lower temperature (133 F for 72 hours). With that said the recipe turned out delicious, and I'm definitely going to dive right back into it. 

 

As you said, the book has a major focus on modern techniques. Luckily I have most of the equipment, but I don't think you could get very far on many of the recipes without some investment in modern equipment - mainly a dehydrator, sous vide setup, and whipping siphon.


Edited by Baselerd, 22 May 2013 - 09:31 AM.


#93 basquecook

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 11:37 AM

Ann_T: Love those lamb shanks! Will need to dig some out of my freezer soon...

 

Basquecook: Where in China? We just got back also, 14 days preceeded by a month in Malaysia.

 

Wish our 14-days had more of a culinary focus, but that doesn't happen on these "shopping tours". Next time...

 

Meanwhile, I am experimenting with some of the dishes that we did enjoy in Malaysia. Tonight, it was Nonya Fried Chicken...really good. :wub:

 

attachicon.gif2NonyaChickenClose-up1167.jpg

 

The recipe included a dipping sauce, but we thought it overwhelmed the flavour already on the chicken. Corn on the cob and broccoslaw dressed with Mango Chipotle, dried cherries, pumpkin seeds, and coconut flakes  were good sides.

 

I was quite surprised at how often corn was served in China - mostly stir-fried kernels with some sweet pepper bits.

 

 

I was in Pinghu, Yangzhou, Zhangjigang, Nanjing.  I am in China for about 1 to 2 months a year.  

 

Here is a blog of my last trip. All food oriented.  The food gets good once I hit Yangzhou. 

 

http://mouthfulsfood...-trip-may-2013/


Edited by basquecook, 22 May 2013 - 11:38 AM.

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#94 TinaYuan

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 04:30 PM

wow, Ann's lamb looks delicious!

Basque, the places you went to in China are very close to my home town. I saw your food pictures during the trip. Those dishes are what I eat to grow up. Miss home now.  

 

This semester is finally over. Haven't eaten well recently, I was planning to treat myself a good dish, stuffed squid. But it turned out funny. Half of the filling(right side) was leaking out because of the squid's shrinking in oven. 

squid_eg.jpg

 

I have to make something good tomorrow :unsure:


Edited by TinaYuan, 22 May 2013 - 04:41 PM.

Life is beautiful.

#95 Plantes Vertes

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 07:25 PM

I made a lemon and mint risotto, and photographed it at very high exposure :blush: :

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Edited by Plantes Vertes, 22 May 2013 - 07:28 PM.


#96 Plantes Vertes

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 07:28 PM

wow, Ann's lamb looks delicious!

Basque, the places you went to in China are very close to my home town. I saw your food pictures during the trip. Those dishes are what I eat to grow up. Miss home now.  

 

This semester is finally over. Haven't eaten well recently, I was planning to treat myself a good dish, stuffed squid. But it turned out funny. Half of the filling(right side) was leaking out because of the squid's shrinking in oven. 

attachicon.gifsquid_eg.jpg

 

I have to make something good tomorrow :unsure:

 

Tina, what's inside the squid, and how did you cook it?


Edited by Plantes Vertes, 22 May 2013 - 07:28 PM.


#97 Dejah

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 11:40 PM

Another dish I enjoyed while in Singapore and in restaurants. Now, I've made it at home. So simple, light, and a lovely change from heavier meals.

 

Hainanese Chicken Rice

 

2HainaneseChicken1168.jpg

 

Had 3 kinds of dips: oyster sauce, sriracha, and ginger, chicken fat, and a bit of salt and sugar in hot oil. This developed some crunchy clumps which were delighful to crunch on along with the silky mois6t5 texture of the chicken

 

I particurly enjoyed the "burnt rice" on the bottom of the pot, softened with more of the chicken stock!


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#98 basquecook

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 05:20 AM

Last night was the first time cooking in awhile.. I found fresh fava beans and boiled quickly and took off the first shell. Removed the stems from broccoli rabe, cut into smaller pieces and quickly boiled.  Then cooked the broccoli rabe in garlic and oil.  Tossed with the fava beans, red pepper, olive oil and added a few drops from an orange and grated some garlic and orange rind over top.  Let it get to room temp for an hour.   Topped with shaved and microplaned pecorino and a little pancetta.

 

 

8796264354_f9a80f5e29_z.jpg

 

  Not shot of the second course.  Made a basic tomato sauce with onion, garlic and carrots.  Let that cook for about an hour, was out of vodka in the house so, poured about a cup of Hendricks Gin into the sauce, added basil, then cream and let it cook for another hour. Added prosciutto at the end and cooked the sauce together with the rigatoni for a couple of minutes..  Topped with pecorino and some micro planed raw garlic.  Served with toasted bread.  


Edited by basquecook, 23 May 2013 - 06:13 AM.


#99 liuzhou

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 06:06 AM

Last night. 川式酸辣牛肉. Sichuan Hot and Sour Beef. Served with rice, and  water spinach fried with garlic in duck fat (not pictured).

 

suanla niurou 2.jpg

 

Suanla Niurou.jpg

 

Hot it was. Very. And sour. In the best possible way. 



#100 Morkai

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 08:37 AM

Another dish I enjoyed while in Singapore and in restaurants. Now, I've made it at home. So simple, light, and a lovely change from heavier meals.

 

Hainanese Chicken Rice

 

attachicon.gif2HainaneseChicken1168.jpg

 

Had 3 kinds of dips: oyster sauce, sriracha, and ginger, chicken fat, and a bit of salt and sugar in hot oil. This developed some crunchy clumps which were delighful to crunch on along with the silky mois6t5 texture of the chicken

 

I particurly enjoyed the "burnt rice" on the bottom of the pot, softened with more of the chicken stock!

 

I loved this dish when I had it abroad. I always assumed it would be rather involved to make at home. How was it? Did you follow a recipe or give it a go on your own?



#101 Keith_W

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:38 AM

I loved this dish when I had it abroad. I always assumed it would be rather involved to make at home. How was it? Did you follow a recipe or give it a go on your own?

It is in fact really easy. The traditional way has you steep the chicken in broth for 30 minutes followed by a refresh in cold water. However I prefer to sous-vide the chicken. It is more reliable and gives more consistent results.
There is no love more sincere than the love of food - George Bernard Shaw

#102 SobaAddict70

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:47 AM

Another dish I enjoyed while in Singapore and in restaurants. Now, I've made it at home. So simple, light, and a lovely change from heavier meals.

 

Hainanese Chicken Rice

 

attachicon.gif2HainaneseChicken1168.jpg

 

Had 3 kinds of dips: oyster sauce, sriracha, and ginger, chicken fat, and a bit of salt and sugar in hot oil. This developed some crunchy clumps which were delighful to crunch on along with the silky mois6t5 texture of the chicken

 

I particurly enjoyed the "burnt rice" on the bottom of the pot, softened with more of the chicken stock!

 

I loved this dish when I had it abroad. I always assumed it would be rather involved to make at home. How was it? Did you follow a recipe or give it a go on your own?

 

love HCR.  hmm, thanks for the idea for next week. 

 

*wink*


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#103 Dejah

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 01:17 PM

Morkai: As Keith said, easy to make. Not a required step but I seasoned the interior of the chicken the night before. Bring about 3 litres of water and lots of sliced ginger to boil. Plunk in the chicken, reduce heat and simmer for about 30 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the chicken in covered pot for about another 10 minutes.Take the chicken out and immerse in ice water to stop the cooking. This also gives the skin a "tightening". :wink:

 

Use some of the stock to cook the rice. I added a couple of drops of sesame oil in with the rice.

 

The leftover chicken will be used with a salad for lunch tomorrow!


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#104 Prawncrackers

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 03:13 PM

Dejah, great minds think alike, I had Chicken Rice this evening too. Made plenty of it because I love eating the leftovers the next day.  Do you salt your leftover chicken overnight?  Love the flavour that develops.  Also with the leftover rice have you ever dry-fry it?  It gives chicken rice another dimension of deliciousness.

 

Been making some sausage recently. First up some hot smoked andouille, I'm trying to think of anything so simple yet perfect than andouille hot off the smoker with a dollop of mustard. Food heaven:

 

IMAGE_AF7286DD-EADC-414C-8D94-AE7E9D5735

IMAGE_72B3C28C-E8A5-4D1C-802A-8087C4B75D

 

With the same batch of pork I also made some N'duja but I couldn't find any Calabrian Chilli powder so I used the reddest chilli powder i could get, Korean Gojugaru.  I also added some fish sauce to the mix and smoked it with cherry wood. It tastes fantastic, as good as any commercial stuff I've tried and actually quite simple to make. Went great in a dish with Bucatini pasta:

IMAGE_603799B4-9D82-4F67-B323-75B6F1D014

20130521a.JPG

 


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#105 mm84321

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:09 PM

Lobster tart

C3GRQOel.jpg



#106 TinaYuan

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:21 PM

Plantes Vertes, the filling is basically simmered mushroom and tomatoes till like sauce, thickened with grated cheese and bread crumbs. When they can hold together like meatball, I stuff them in the squid and cook in oven, 375F for 40 minutes. But I don't think it's good. It seems meaningless to put the filling and squid together. I would rather eat them separately.

 

Dejah, chicken rice seems very popular here. It looks delicious!

 

Prawncrackers, wow, home made sausage with pasta :wub:


Life is beautiful.

#107 huiray

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:44 PM

Regarding "Hainanese Chicken Rice" - this usually refers to a kind of chicken rice developed in Singapore and Malaysia (and Thailand, to a lesser extent) with roots in a chicken dish from Hainan ("Wenchang Chicken").  The type of chicken rice referred to as HCR has been exported back to Hainan Island in recent years.

 

IMHO I don't think there is a single "best" way to cook HCR.  It will also vary with the chicken (what kind, how big, etc) as well as one's preference for how the rice to accompany it is cooked.  The chicken itself is essentially no different from what is known as "pak chit kai" or "pak cham kai" in Cantonese; it's the rice PLUS THE CONDIMENTS besides the chicken that is part of the totality of HCR and which also vary, with different localities and vendors having different variations as well - even apart from the variations on the chicken itself - that distinguish one from the other.

 

Singapore prides itself on its HCR and thinks the Malaysian versions inferior.  Folks from Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur, Penang, Ipoh) often prefer their own versions.  The RICE in Singapore is usually much more savory and packed full of stuff (like lots of chicken fat and other stuff - simply making "chicken rice" with just the stock in which you cooked your ONE chicken is not going to cut it with most Singaporeans) whereas the rice in Penang, in particular, tends to be much more plain, much less savory.  Dejah, did you notice this, or was your experience different?  Singapore HCR vendors also tend to use more "mushy"-fleshed chickens, mostly from the French-type chickens commercially available there; whereas Malaysians tend to use what are called "ayam kampong" ("village chickens") which are a sort-of free-range-type of chicken with 'tougher' flesh but stronger chicken-y flavor.  Foodie folks from Malaysia have been known to express a strong dislike for the HCR *chicken* in Singapore and vice-versa. :-)

 

I myself alternate between cooking my chickens for HCR using a "constant low simmer" (10 min/lb plus 10 min more) versus a "medium boil" for 10 min or so then letting sit in the stock (fire turned off) for about 20-30 min (~4 lb bird) then sometimes bringing back to a boil again or not, depending on how much water I started out with and/or what the internal temp of the bird is in the thickest part of the thigh is.  I don't always do the iced-water dunk - I *like* the extra gelatin that pools (and gels) under the chicken (on a plate) when I don't do the dunking whereas the dunking washes off a lot of this extra gelatin.  In fact, I think I *don't* do it more often than I do.  In any case, I use LOTS of smashed ginger.  Lots.  Did I mention I use lots of ginger? :-)

 

For the rice, I often add in extra chicken fat (I get that from my local butcher in small tubs) into the poaching stock from the beginning - which helps to "coat" the chicken when it is done and removed from the stock, obviating the "oiling the skin" treatment afterwards - and this extra fat is scooped up (with the stock, plus some of the ginger pieces) for use in cooking the rice.  I might sauté some garlic and extra ginger in the pot I use for cooking the rice (I cook my rice on the stove top) before adding the raw rice and tossing it before adding the stock + chicken fat + ginger.  At other times I'll just simply use the poaching stock as-is.  Depends on my mood.   ;-)

 

For sauces, I've made grated ginger - chopped scallion - HOT oil (peanut + veggie); chicken liver sauce; various chilli sauces with or without additional additives (vinegar. lime juice, other chilli sauces, etc), sautéed chopped smashed garlic quenched in the pan w/ a good soy sauce; etc.

 

I normally reheat a portion of the poaching stock w/ some vegetable (usually leafy, but not always) to give a chicken broth with greenery in it to accompany the meal - although I have on rare occasions just had a bowl of the broth w/ a scattering of chopped scallions and/or coriander leaves in it too.

 

I've reported on my HCR meals and what I've done with leftovers here on the older "dinner" threads and on the "lunch" thread.


Edited by huiray, 23 May 2013 - 05:09 PM.


#108 hongda

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 05:45 PM

Old thread on Hainanese Chicken.....

http://forums.egulle...e-chicken-rice/

#109 heidih

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 06:55 PM

Old thread on Hainanese Chicken.....

http://forums.egulle...e-chicken-rice/

 

Huiray's post above is linked in that topic as well for future reference



#110 Plantes Vertes

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 07:09 PM

Tina, a popular way to prepare a squid is to stuff it with chorizo, plus rice and perhaps a chopped egg. You can put the tentacles in too. Maybe that's worth a try another time.



#111 Paul Bacino

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 07:43 PM

Been Away..Sorry Here

 

Here is my latest creation!!

 

Braised Yukon Gnocchi in a Morel reduction sauce ( finished w/ a 64 degree Egg )!!

 

Morel Gnocchi.jpg


Edited by Paul Bacino, 23 May 2013 - 07:44 PM.

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Its good to have Morels

#112 SobaAddict70

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 11:38 PM

Have a TON of greens I'm going through in my fridge; coming up with some ideas for next week.
 
In the meantime, this was tonight:

8810760558_3bb373dffc_z.jpg

Fried farm eggs, with asparagus, sesame oil and cayenne

The eggs were fried in olive oil for about 2 minutes, or until the whites were barely set. Transferring them to a bowl or plate is always a bit tricky, since one wrong move and you'll end up with an egg painting instead of fried eggs.


8800181069_2f639eb8d6_z.jpg

Pasta with greens (cress, Greenmarket spinach), anchovy, garlic and fried breadcrumbs.

The breadcrumbs are from a stale baguette and were fried in olive oil, then seasoned with sea salt, peperoncini and black pepper.



#113 rotuts

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 05:02 AM

PB:  delicious !  but .....  where's the Beef!   :biggrin:



#114 Dejah

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 07:46 AM

Prawncrackers:Shame on you...tantalizing sausage! I'll remember your suggestion of salting the leftovers next time!

 

huiray: Kampong chickens, to me, are best kept for stock...not much eating to them. I like garlic, but not if it overpowers, so I add mainly lots of ginger and simmer that with a chicken carcass before I simmer the chicken itself.

 

I think the Singapore version of the rice is more garlicy but not overpoweringly so. There was more of a sheen and toasted flavour to it then on mine. Next time, I'll sautee the raw rice in rendered chicken fat before adding the stock and ginger.

 

I only use the electric rice cooker when I have a lot of company. Otherwise, it's always on the stove top 'cos I love fan jew!


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#115 huiray

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 08:02 AM

Prawncrackers:Shame on you...tantalizing sausage! I'll remember your suggestion of salting the leftovers next time!

 

huiray: Kampong chickens, to me, are best kept for stock...not much eating to them. I like garlic, but not if it overpowers, so I add mainly lots of ginger and simmer that with a chicken carcass before I simmer the chicken itself.

 

I think the Singapore version of the rice is more garlicy but not overpoweringly so. There was more of a sheen and toasted flavour to it then on mine. Next time, I'll sautee the raw rice in rendered chicken fat before adding the stock and ginger.

 

I only use the electric rice cooker when I have a lot of company. Otherwise, it's always on the stove top 'cos I love fan jew!

 

To each their own.  Did you try any HCR in Malaysia?

 

The Singaporean HCR rice would indeed normally have more garlic - plus pandan leaves with some vendors.  It has been described as "unctuous" with the chicken fat/oil and other seasonings by some food bloggers.  As I mentioned before, many people in Malaysia like a less heavily-seasoned rice for their HCR.  Did you try some in M'sia? 

 

As for the garlic in the poaching of the chicken - umm, just in case there was a misunderstanding - I didn't say I used any garlic at all in my post above, in fact.  I said I used lots of GINGER. Still, I *have* put in a few cloves of garlic into the poaching stock before but that is relatively infrequent.

 

Even when I cook the rice I would use garlic sparingly, if at all.  It's in the garlic-soy sauce/condiment - a separate thing - where I would use lots of garlic, as it *is* a garlic sauce.


Edited by huiray, 24 May 2013 - 08:50 AM.


#116 Dejah

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 11:36 AM

huiray: Yes. I did have HCR in Malaysia and Singapore. I was too busy enjoying both so much that I really didn't bother to analyze the differences between them.

But I know I will be making it more often at home now! :smile:


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#117 C. sapidus

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 06:02 PM

Dejah, glad you are feeling better, and I’m enjoying all of your meals (and the HCR discussion).

 

Dcarch – beautiful as always, I love the bok choy forest.

 

Ann_T – Mmmmm, chile verde pork chops

 

Chicken, lemongrass, and potato curry from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen. Fried paste of lemongrass, ginger, onion, black pepper, red chile flakes, and curry powder, simmered with chicken, potatoes, and coconut milk. Jasmine rice and salad.

 

p1839609201-4.jpg



#118 patrickamory

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 08:03 PM

OMG Hainanese chicken rice - one of my favorite dishes. I made it some time ago and was not happy with the chicken - somehow dried it out too much. Will try again. Especially after eating it recently at the great Savoy Kitchen in Alhambra. And then seeing that photo above. Thanks Dejah and huiray for the fascinating discussion!

 

Prawncrackers - that pasta is off the hook.

 

Plantes Vertes - it's the season for that sort of risotto. One of my favorites. Will be making this week.

 

In general: tantalizing meals everyone! This thread just keeps getting better and better (if that's even possible).



#119 FeChef

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 08:30 PM

Last night. 川式酸辣牛肉. Sichuan Hot and Sour Beef. Served with rice, and  water spinach fried with garlic in duck fat (not pictured).

 

 

Hot it was. Very. And sour. In the best possible way. 

That beef looks thin and tender. Something like what asian restaurants serve here in the states. What is the technique for this thin, almost "cant be beef its so tender" meat? Do they use a meat tenderizer like papain? I know the egg/cornstarch velvet technique but that just doesnt come close to how tender the beef is.



#120 liuzhou

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 09:51 PM

That beef looks thin and tender. Something like what asian restaurants serve here in the states. What is the technique for this thin, almost "cant be beef its so tender" meat? Do they use a meat tenderizer like papain? I know the egg/cornstarch velvet technique but that just doesnt come close to how tender the beef is.

 

No tenderizer was used. Just the standard velveting technique. And, of course, decent beef cut thinly across the grain.