Jump to content


Welcome to the eGullet Forums!

These forums are a service of the Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, a 501c3 nonprofit organization dedicated to advancement of the culinary arts. Anyone can read the forums, however if you would like to participate in active discussions please join the Society.

Photo

Sous Vide: Recipes, Techniques & Equipment, 2010


  • This topic is locked This topic is locked
1176 replies to this topic

#661 Chris Amirault

Chris Amirault
  • manager
  • 19,498 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 05:00 PM

I grabbed a Wagner heat gun at Home Depot for $25; here it is on Amazon. Turned it up to high/1KF, brushed a bit of fat on the short ribs I just pulled from the SVS, and it did a great job. Maybe for restaurant production it's a bit too slow, but I can't imagine needing anything faster.
Chris Amirault
Manager, eG Forums.
camirault@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics Signatory
I took my potatoes down to be mashed
Then I made it over to that million dollar bash

#662 Merridith

Merridith
  • participating member
  • 87 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 06:14 PM


Electrolux makes a countertop professional grade combi oven that is $1900, so that is much more affordable.

Several home oven manufacturers like Miele and Gaggenau are now making home combi ovens. So while a Rational 61SCC is not a home oven for most people, there are other alternatives.

The Electrolux is a very nice appliance, especially suited for small kitchens.

The Gaggenau appliances have direct water in - and outlet. Unique with household appliances, AFAIK.

The Eloma Compact is a compact (household appliance size, 6 x GN 2/3), professional combioven with according features and, ahem, price (~$8000).



Ok, maybe this is a really dumb question but I will ask anyway. Can you use the steam function in a combi oven to bake bread? Also, FYI Sharp makes one that is a countertop steam/convection/microwave for about $800 - I have been planning to get one when my regular convection/micro dies, which I expect will happen soon as it is more than 20 years old.
I've got one body and one life, I'm going to take care of them.
I'm blogging as the Fabulous Food Fanatic here.

#663 FoodMan

FoodMan
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 4,306 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 06:19 PM

" I'm trying to get some guidelines so I don't mess anything up too badly".

Has anyone posted whether the product to be SV'd should be brought to room temperature before placing in the water bath I have scallops that have been seasoned and vacuumed but I don't know if I should let them come to room temp for two hours before placement into the bath????

alanjesq

Definitely not. Just drop then in. I put frozen items in the SV tub often. Like Sam said, they will get to temp much quicker in the water.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com


#664 FoodMan

FoodMan
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 4,306 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 06:27 PM

Buying some skirt steak tomorrow

Thanks for the heads up, I can totally see this being my go-to considering the yield, cooking time, flavor and price.

Skirt steak cooked sv is fantastic. I made the best fajitas by bagging the beef with my normal marinade, a rick bayless recipe, made from grated onions, garlic, cumin, lime juice and a little oil. I cooked them for 10 hours at 135, then seared them in a very hot cast iron pan.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com


#665 nolnacs

nolnacs
  • participating member
  • 244 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 06:50 PM

I grabbed a Wagner heat gun at Home Depot for $25; here it is on Amazon. Turned it up to high/1KF, brushed a bit of fat on the short ribs I just pulled from the SVS, and it did a great job. Maybe for restaurant production it's a bit too slow, but I can't imagine needing anything faster.


The heat gun works better than a blow torch for searing? I've been meaning to pick up a blow torch to finish off my sous-vide meats, but I may have to go for this instead.

#666 Chris Amirault

Chris Amirault
  • manager
  • 19,498 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 07:06 PM

I don't know if it works better or not. But it works, and works well for my needs. And it's dirt cheap, requires no refills, and has no potential for a chemical taste (as some have suggested elsewhere in this topic).
Chris Amirault
Manager, eG Forums.
camirault@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics Signatory
I took my potatoes down to be mashed
Then I made it over to that million dollar bash

#667 e_monster

e_monster
  • participating member
  • 443 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 07:51 PM

I grabbed a Wagner heat gun at Home Depot for $25; here it is on Amazon. Turned it up to high/1KF, brushed a bit of fat on the short ribs I just pulled from the SVS, and it did a great job. Maybe for restaurant production it's a bit too slow, but I can't imagine needing anything faster.


The heat gun works better than a blow torch for searing? I've been meaning to pick up a blow torch to finish off my sous-vide meats, but I may have to go for this instead.


In my opinion, a heat gun is nowhere near as good as a good torch. The heat gun will cook the food much more than a hot torch will in the time that it takes to get a nice crust since the heat gun doesn't get nearly as hot. In my opinion, a super hot pan (i.e. one that has been on high heat for 10 minutes) works better than a heat gun. (NOTE: I have both a heat gun and a few torches). An Iwatani blow torch is $30 or less and the butane canisters about $2 a piece. One canister lasts quite a long time. So, the cost per use is quite low (the bags you use will cost more per use than the gas).

By the way, I don't know of a single person using an Iwatani that has ever complained of a chemical taste. I have only read complaints about chemical taste in connection with people using propane torches -- and that only happens when one doesn't use the torch correctly OR has a defective torch. I have experienced it when mis-using my now retired propane torch but never with the Iwatani.

#668 Chris Amirault

Chris Amirault
  • manager
  • 19,498 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 08:06 PM

How hot does the Iwatani get?
Chris Amirault
Manager, eG Forums.
camirault@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics Signatory
I took my potatoes down to be mashed
Then I made it over to that million dollar bash

#669 FoodMan

FoodMan
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 4,306 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 09:43 PM


I grabbed a Wagner heat gun at Home Depot for $25; here it is on Amazon. Turned it up to high/1KF, brushed a bit of fat on the short ribs I just pulled from the SVS, and it did a great job. Maybe for restaurant production it's a bit too slow, but I can't imagine needing anything faster.


The heat gun works better than a blow torch for searing? I've been meaning to pick up a blow torch to finish off my sous-vide meats, but I may have to go for this instead.


In my opinion, a heat gun is nowhere near as good as a good torch. The heat gun will cook the food much more than a hot torch will in the time that it takes to get a nice crust since the heat gun doesn't get nearly as hot. In my opinion, a super hot pan (i.e. one that has been on high heat for 10 minutes) works better than a heat gun. (NOTE: I have both a heat gun and a few torches). An Iwatani blow torch is $30 or less and the butane canisters about $2 a piece. One canister lasts quite a long time. So, the cost per use is quite low (the bags you use will cost more per use than the gas).

By the way, I don't know of a single person using an Iwatani that has ever complained of a chemical taste. I have only read complaints about chemical taste in connection with people using propane torches -- and that only happens when one doesn't use the torch correctly OR has a defective torch. I have experienced it when mis-using my now retired propane torch but never with the Iwatani.

I got no experience with the heat gun, but like you, I do like my Iwatani. I probably have to change the canister maybe once every ten months. I do use my cast iron skillet for most of my searing though.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com


#670 e_monster

e_monster
  • participating member
  • 443 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 10:41 PM

How hot does the Iwatani get?

I believe that the temperature is somewhere in the 2800 to 3100 F range -- so hot that if you aren't paying attention, you will turn the outside into something resembling charcoal. They burn hotter and with a more useful flame area than a heat gun. The flame of the Iwatani is very controllable. And don't be fooled by the pictures on the web, these aren't wimpy little creme brulee torches (although if you are making creme brulee it would be an awesome tool for the job). It is more powerful than my bernzomatic propane torch which has been retired for cooking since I got the Iwatani due to the more controllable flame and lack idiot-proofness as far as gas-aftertaste (the taste that people mention with propane happens if you hold the torch too close to the meat which results in spraying the meat with some uncombusted propane).

Btw, while a heat gun doesn't use a gas canister it uses lots of energy. Electricity is a much less efficient way to generate heat than burning gas.

#671 MartinH

MartinH
  • participating member
  • 64 posts

Posted 22 August 2010 - 11:30 PM

I'm told that Rick Bayless, the TV chef and Chicago restauranteur, has a signature recipe for sous vide pork carnitas. Does anyone know how he does this and has anyone tried anything similar?

#672 PedroG

PedroG
  • participating member
  • 471 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 01:10 AM


How hot does the Iwatani get?

I believe that the temperature is somewhere in the 2800 to 3100 F range -- so hot that if you aren't paying attention, you will turn the outside into something resembling charcoal. They burn hotter and with a more useful flame area than a heat gun. The flame of the Iwatani is very controllable. And don't be fooled by the pictures on the web, these aren't wimpy little creme brulee torches (although if you are making creme brulee it would be an awesome tool for the job). It is more powerful than my bernzomatic propane torch which has been retired for cooking since I got the Iwatani due to the more controllable flame and lack idiot-proofness as far as gas-aftertaste (the taste that people mention with propane happens if you hold the torch too close to the meat which results in spraying the meat with some uncombusted propane).

Btw, while a heat gun doesn't use a gas canister it uses lots of energy. Electricity is a much less efficient way to generate heat than burning gas.

Butane blowtorches achieve about 1400°C/2500°F.
Wagner HT3500 heat gun is said to achieve 730°C/1350°F, but was recalled in 2009
Rice bran oil has smoke point 247°C/475°F, heat transfer is much faster than hot air or flame.
Peter F. Gruber aka Pedro
eG Ethics Signatory

#673 Chris Amirault

Chris Amirault
  • manager
  • 19,498 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 04:25 AM

Pedro, Elie, and e_monster, thanks for your replies. This is the torch of which you all speak, yes? And is this the butane cartridge?
Chris Amirault
Manager, eG Forums.
camirault@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics Signatory
I took my potatoes down to be mashed
Then I made it over to that million dollar bash

#674 FoodMan

FoodMan
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 4,306 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 05:38 AM

Pedro, Elie, and e_monster, thanks for your replies. This is the torch of which you all speak, yes? And is this the butane cartridge?

Yeap. That looks right Chris.

E. Nassar
Houston, TX

My Blog
contact: enassar(AT)gmail(DOT)com


#675 e_monster

e_monster
  • participating member
  • 443 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 09:40 AM

Rice bran oil has smoke point 247°C/475°F, heat transfer is much faster than hot air or flame.


In my opinion, hot pans with oil are less effective than a torch for pieces of meat that have irregularly shaped surfaces. Brisket, skirt steak, or any other cut that is not essentially flat on both sides benefits from the torch.

Given how much more time it takes to clean up a pan after pan-searing (not to mention the 10 minutes or so that it takes to get a pan to temp), I now use the torch for all my beef searing.

Torches aren't very useful for pork or poultry in my experience.

I used to exclusively use a VERY hot pan (somewhere around 700F) for searing but for many cuts of meat I find that a torch works better for developing crust without cooking the meat and even for cuts with an even surface (like rib eyes) I have switched to a torch because the result is just as good as with a pan and there is much less work involved.

#676 e_monster

e_monster
  • participating member
  • 443 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 09:47 AM

Pedro, Elie, and e_monster, thanks for your replies. This is the torch of which you all speak, yes? And is this the butane cartridge?


That is the right torch -- you can probably find it for less. My local restaurant supply store had them for under $30. There are also quite a few other brands of butane canisters that fit the torch. If you search the archives for Iwatani, I mentioned another brand that is pretty common. 12 cans for $21 is a good price but probably overkill. I bought four cans of fuel when I got my torch about 8 months ago and I have only gone through slightly more than one can. (It gets used a few times a week). Basically, the torch needs a butane canister designed for using with portable butane stove -- they have a notch in the collar and are pretty common. The brand I use is $8 to $10 for a four pack.

#677 nolnacs

nolnacs
  • participating member
  • 244 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 11:23 AM



Rice bran oil has smoke point 247°C/475°F, heat transfer is much faster than hot air or flame.


I used to exclusively use a VERY hot pan (somewhere around 700F) for searing but for many cuts of meat I find that a torch works better for developing crust without cooking the meat and even for cuts with an even surface (like rib eyes) I have switched to a torch because the result is just as good as with a pan and there is much less work involved.


Do you get less smoke when using a torch instead of a pan? I use a pan right now and the main problem is that the hood above the stove is ancient and practically useless (rental so there isn't much I can do about that), which means that the kitchen quickly fills up with smoke.

#678 JBailey

JBailey
  • society donor
  • 293 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 12:00 PM

Recently, I have been doing corn on the cob sous vide...shucked, rolled in a little melted butter, vacuumed in a chamber vacuum machine and then in the water bath at 185 degrees for 90 minutes or so. I have enjoyed the results when put immediately on the table for dinner.

With corn in season, I have a couple questions. First, if I did corn on the cob sous vide and then put the bag into a freezer, what would happen to flavor, texture and food safety? I have boiled corn and frozen it off the cob successfully. Would I have to cool off the ears of sous vide prepared corn, change bags and then freeze them? Second, has anyone had success in vacuuming fresh corn on the cob for freezing and cooking later without cooking?

All thoughts appreciated!
"A cloud o' dust! Could be most anything. Even a whirling dervish.
That, gentlemen, is the whirlingest dervish of them all." - The Professionals by Richard Brooks

#679 nathanm

nathanm
  • participating member
  • 821 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 12:21 PM

I do corn on the cob for 30 minutes at 60C/140F. This takes the raw taste away, but the kernels are still fairly crisp. It comes out very sweet. I usually cut the kernels them off the cob and serve them separatly, but you could serve them on the cob also.
Nathan

#680 KennethT

KennethT
  • participating member
  • 708 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 12:36 PM

I'm told that Rick Bayless, the TV chef and Chicago restauranteur, has a signature recipe for sous vide pork carnitas. Does anyone know how he does this and has anyone tried anything similar?


I don't know how he does his pork SV, but I've adapted his Yucatan "pig in a pit" for SV with pork shoulder and it works great. You make his achiote marinate and rub all over, then wrap with banana leaf. I put it in a stovetop smoker for about 20 minutes, and then into the bag... A long time ago (a couple of years) I did it for about 7 hours at 82C, and then did another one at 76C for 12 hours. I thought the 12 hour version was better, and both were hot enough for the banana leaf to impart some flavor. Since that time, I've done other pork shoulder (with no banana leaf) at 155F for 24 hours, and that has been best so far, but I haven't tried it with the banana leaf to see if it imparts any flavor at that temp.

#681 e_monster

e_monster
  • participating member
  • 443 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 01:24 PM




Rice bran oil has smoke point 247°C/475°F, heat transfer is much faster than hot air or flame.


I used to exclusively use a VERY hot pan (somewhere around 700F) for searing but for many cuts of meat I find that a torch works better for developing crust without cooking the meat and even for cuts with an even surface (like rib eyes) I have switched to a torch because the result is just as good as with a pan and there is much less work involved.


Do you get less smoke when using a torch instead of a pan? I use a pan right now and the main problem is that the hood above the stove is ancient and practically useless (rental so there isn't much I can do about that), which means that the kitchen quickly fills up with smoke.


Yes, there is less (much less) smoke using a torch.

#682 nolnacs

nolnacs
  • participating member
  • 244 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 02:14 PM




I used to exclusively use a VERY hot pan (somewhere around 700F) for searing but for many cuts of meat I find that a torch works better for developing crust without cooking the meat and even for cuts with an even surface (like rib eyes) I have switched to a torch because the result is just as good as with a pan and there is much less work involved.


Do you get less smoke when using a torch instead of a pan? I use a pan right now and the main problem is that the hood above the stove is ancient and practically useless (rental so there isn't much I can do about that), which means that the kitchen quickly fills up with smoke.


Yes, there is less (much less) smoke using a torch.



That is fantastic - an Iwatani blowtorch is going to the top of my shopping list. I'll certainly get fewer complaints from my wife that way.

#683 PedroG

PedroG
  • participating member
  • 471 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 03:13 PM





Rice bran oil has smoke point 247°C/475°F, heat transfer is much faster than hot air or flame.


I used to exclusively use a VERY hot pan (somewhere around 700F) for searing but for many cuts of meat I find that a torch works better for developing crust without cooking the meat and even for cuts with an even surface (like rib eyes) I have switched to a torch because the result is just as good as with a pan and there is much less work involved.


Do you get less smoke when using a torch instead of a pan? I use a pan right now and the main problem is that the hood above the stove is ancient and practically useless (rental so there isn't much I can do about that), which means that the kitchen quickly fills up with smoke.


Yes, there is less (much less) smoke using a torch.

No chance, SWAMBO does not allow a blowtorch in the kitchen. For minor surface irregularities I use ample oil, and for complicated surfaces I use tongs to hold the meat in all the necessary positions. I use a special non-stick skillet that supports extremely high temperatures, so cleaning is no problem. And I do not mind overcooking the outer 2-4mm, it gives the meat a more traditional temperature and texture gradient to suite my wife's taste.
Peter F. Gruber aka Pedro
eG Ethics Signatory

#684 therippa

therippa
  • participating member
  • 219 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 03:51 PM

I've done pulled pork sous vide and it was absolutely delicious. For a carnitas recipe, a quick google search gave me this link - http://sleeplessfoodie.com/?p=139

#685 OliverB

OliverB
  • participating member
  • 1,204 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 05:34 PM

don't know if it would make sense to open a separate "review only" thread about SV, this one is getting way too big to root through?

Anyway, I'm curious to hear from those that have the FreshMealsMagic (FMM) Sous Vide 18L Kit setup. I'm not a big fan of the other all in one option, I think this setup is more flexible and personally I like the "science lab" look of it all.

Are you happy with it? Would you buy it again? It's not overly expensive and I'd guess that it creates a nice even environment with the bubbler that's part of the system.

I feel like buying something, either camera gear or this thing, so let's hear from those that have it, especially the things you don't like about it, if there are any.

Thanks!

Oliver
"And don't forget music - music in the kitchen is an essential ingredient!"
- Thomas Keller

Diablo Kitchen, my food blog

#686 MartinH

MartinH
  • participating member
  • 64 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 07:55 PM

On Rick Bayless' SV carnitas, this is all I have found: Rick shares his own state-of-the-carnitas concept: sous vide pork (cooked very slowly in a vacuum-sealed packet), shredded, formed into a loaf, chilled, sliced and pan-seared in a stunning modern presentation. (here) Interesting, but no details.

#687 derekslager

derekslager
  • participating member
  • 18 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 08:42 PM

On Rick Bayless' SV carnitas, this is all I have found: Rick shares his own state-of-the-carnitas concept: sous vide pork (cooked very slowly in a vacuum-sealed packet), shredded, formed into a loaf, chilled, sliced and pan-seared in a stunning modern presentation. (here) Interesting, but no details.


I happened to have this recorded, here's a brief rundown from the show.

  • Generously season a pork shoulder
  • Bag with a healthy amount of fresh rendered lard
  • Cook sous vide for 50 hours at 143f
  • Remove from bag, shred into pan
  • Cover with plastic wrap, layer another tray on top
  • Add weights, transfer to refrigerator
  • Once cooled/pressed, slice into cubes and brown
  • Serve with oaxacan black beans, roasted tomato sauce, guac, lime, pickled red onions, microarugula

Looks delicious! Some pics:

Pressed:

Posted Image

Searing:

Posted Image

Plated:

Posted Image

#688 MartinH

MartinH
  • participating member
  • 64 posts

Posted 23 August 2010 - 11:21 PM

Thanks derekslager, those pics look awesome.

#689 PedroG

PedroG
  • participating member
  • 471 posts

Posted 24 August 2010 - 01:54 AM

don't know if it would make sense to open a separate "review only" thread about SV, this one is getting way too big to root through?

Anyway, I'm curious to hear from those that have the FreshMealsMagic (FMM) Sous Vide 18L Kit setup. I'm not a big fan of the other all in one option, I think this setup is more flexible and personally I like the "science lab" look of it all.

Are you happy with it? Would you buy it again? It's not overly expensive and I'd guess that it creates a nice even environment with the bubbler that's part of the system.

I feel like buying something, either camera gear or this thing, so let's hear from those that have it, especially the things you don't like about it, if there are any.

Thanks!

Oliver

Hi Oliver,
I'll answer your question in the SV-machine topic http://forums.egulle...-for-sous-vide/ in a few days when I am back home.
Regards
Pedro
Peter F. Gruber aka Pedro
eG Ethics Signatory

#690 RDaneel

RDaneel
  • participating member
  • 61 posts

Posted 24 August 2010 - 12:12 PM

I can give another vote for the Iwatani, but it's not going to solve everything. I did SV chicken breasts the past couple days, finished once in a hot skillet with peanut oil just smoking and once with the Iwatani. Here were the pros/cons:

Skillet
Pros: Even, golden browning of the surface in about 25-35 seconds.
Cons: My overactive smoke alarm went off once the chicken hit the pan. Cleaning the stainless steel pain required barkeeper's friend.

Iwatani:
Pros: No mess, quick, nothing to clean but a quick wash of the sheet pan on which I placed the chicken, and torches are fun.
Cons: Browning isn't even. The small protrusions on the surface of the chicken (including pepper if you used it for seasoning), burn before the main surface of the chicken browns. You do get browning, but not as nicely, and the lack of oil also means it is less golden/fried.

The Iwatani was great fun and worked well, but I think you end up with a spotty browning unless you really keep on the heat. For red meat, that's probably not a problem, where a nice mahogany brown is achievable and searing/burning of some little bits isn't as visually obvious. For chicken/duck, I think I'd rather try door number three, which is Doug Baldwin's gulcose wash and sear. I'm hoping to avoid the smoke and mess by cooking at a lower temp. I could probably even do it in a nice nonstick skillet, which would be super easy for weeknight cleanup.

Anyway, for $25, I think the Iwatani makes a great addition to the SV chef's arsenal. Plus, you can always creme brulee with it...