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Home Made Ice Cream (2013– )

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313 replies to this topic

#301 paulraphael

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 07:47 AM

I wonder what Haagen Dazs is doing.

Well, I got this from a source that may not be trustworthy in this context ... a conversation with Jerry Greenfield of Ben & Jerry's. He said that Haagen Dazs molecularly alters milk proteins to act as emulsifiers and stabilizers.

 

I've never been able to confirm this with routine interwebs research. It seems more plausible that they're doing something more like Jeni's process. It would let them keep an old-timey looking ingredients list ... the molecular modifications would probably require the word "modified" somewhere. And we know that Jenni's process actually exists!



#302 JoNorvelleWalker

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 06:54 PM

It was almost worth my life but the mix is in the ice bath.  Sometimes I suppose one must put up or shut up, as they say.  Comparing nutrition labels with regular non-fat milk, Over the Moon Fat Free has about 27 percent of the water removed vs 60 percent of the water removed for Jeni's milk.  (For some reason when I logged into my amazon account tonight they recommended Jeni's book...small world.)

 

Here were my ingredients:

 

heavy cream 600 ml

Over the Moon Fat Free milk 300 ml

medium/large egg yolks 7 (normally 6, the eggs did not look very big so I added an extra yolk)

sugar (sucrose) 90 g

trehalose 20 g

kosher salt pinch

vanilla paste 1 tablespoon (approximate)

 

Note, this is less cream and more milk than in my typical recipe.  I know well enough to change only one variable at a time, but of course I did not.  I cooked the mix by Ruben's method.  Recording peak temperature, the mix never exceeded 71.2 deg C.

 

After cooking I homogenized, or pretended to as best I could, with an immersion blender, per Michael Laiskonis.  Now it is about time for the mix to go in the refrigerator overnight.  We shall see.



#303 paulraphael

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Posted 04 June 2014 - 03:19 PM

What's the difference between using over-the-moon and using regular milk with nonfat dry milk added?



#304 timpoblete

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Posted 04 June 2014 - 03:22 PM

Paulraphael, I noticed that in your past posts you've used both gelatin and two yolks in your recipes. How do you incorporate the gelatin into the mix (bloom in liquid or right in and heat for a while, etc)? And does aging in the fridge with the gelatin affect anything?

#305 paulraphael

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Posted 04 June 2014 - 03:48 PM

I'm not using gelatin anymore, but when I did I used the powdered kind (easier to use in small quantities than sheets). I just mixed all the dry ingredients together thoroughly, including the sugars. This keeps ingredients like gelatin, gums, and milk powder from clumping.

 

Aging in the fridge is important for several reasons, so I never experimented with omitting this step. Theoretically it should allow gelatin to reach a higher viscosity.



#306 JoNorvelleWalker

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Posted 04 June 2014 - 09:42 PM

What's the difference between using over-the-moon and using regular milk with nonfat dry milk added?

 

I don't know yet, but folks like Cook's Illustrated think dry milk tastes bad in ice cream.



#307 JoNorvelleWalker

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 12:08 AM

Success.  This is very good ice cream.  Which does not mean it can't be yet improved.



#308 paulraphael

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 08:24 AM

I don't know yet, but folks like Cook's Illustrated think dry milk tastes bad in ice cream.

Bad dry milk does. I don't think you can detect good quality, 100% milk solids versions. Every pastry chef I know uses it, with the exception of one who uses a paco-jet exclusively.



#309 JoNorvelleWalker

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 06:47 PM

With regard to use of powdered milk in ice cream, I have no personal experience.  Rose Levy Beranbaum's ice cream does not call for powdered milk and it is possibly the best ice cream I had made prior to Ruben's method. The Cake Bible (pp 285-286).  The cinnamon ice cream I made from CIA's The Professional Chef (9th edition 2011) did not use powdered milk.  I've not seen powdered milk in Dave Arnold's ice cream recipes.  Migoya does call for powdered milk, at least in his modern method recipes.  Migoya also heats his mix at 85 deg C, which is higher than many authorities recommend.

 

I'd say if you like powdered milk and it works for you, then use it.  I consume a fair quantity of powdered milk in Instant Breakfast.



#310 paulraphael

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Posted 05 June 2014 - 08:07 PM

Powdered milk is just the most straightforward way to increase the nonfat milk solids, which improves body and texture, and helps with freezing point suppression. It's certainly not the only way to do this. My point earlier is just that you you shouldn't expect flavor problems with this approach, considering that pastry chefs like Migoya and Laiskonis and Adria use it in their recipes.


Edited by paulraphael, 05 June 2014 - 08:08 PM.


#311 paulraphael

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Posted 06 June 2014 - 09:13 AM

Regarding Migoya's using an 85°C water bath ... this may have to do with the hydration temperature of the gums he uses. 



#312 JoNorvelleWalker

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Posted 06 June 2014 - 09:34 AM

Still, I've never tasted reconstituted milk that would pass for fresh.



#313 Perrin

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Posted Yesterday, 01:09 PM

RE: powdered milk, that was a turning point for my ice cream.  It made a huge difference in texture and the only detectable difference in flavor is a creamier taste.  I find the Cook's Illustrated recipe highly suspect for this reason.  I noticed that they show a photo of a big bag of Horizon Organic powdered milk, while I use a cheaper brand called Elba that comes in 100g sealed foil packets for freshness.  Maybe theirs was not fresh enough.

 

At any rate, Laiskonis, Migoya, Corvitto, and the new Ample Hills cookbook all call for it in their recipes, so it's clearly the norm for commercial ice cream.  Ample Hills describes it as a way to reduce the ratio of cream to milk so that they can get the right texture without too much fat, but I know you like it with more milkfat Jo.



#314 JoNorvelleWalker

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Posted Yesterday, 03:18 PM

What was your recipe?







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